# ribbing on a USM (ultimate sweater machine)



## Sarah KW (Mar 31, 2011)

I have recently toyed with the idea of purchasing a USM but had a question about the ribbing. Could I modify a pattern to allow myself to knit or crochet a ribbing on the edges of a sweater rather than use a latch tool while on the machine? Or am I just making too much work for myself? Will it just not work that way?


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## ksojerio (Aug 2, 2011)

Sarah KW said:


> I have recently toyed with the idea of purchasing a USM but had a question about the ribbing. Could I modify a pattern to allow myself to knit or crochet a ribbing on the edges of a sweater rather than use a latch tool while on the machine? Or am I just making too much work for myself? Will it just not work that way?


I am guessing that your question is can you HK the ribbing of the sweater and transfer that to the machine. Yes you can.


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## Sarah KW (Mar 31, 2011)

So in a nutshell I could HK the bottom edging for the front and back of a sweater. But what would I do for the sleeves and neckline?


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## Deb-Babbles (Mar 4, 2011)

You would pick up the stitches from the needles on the KM and finish off. I do this all the time. Not the easiest way to finish but can be done. You just have to watch the way the stitch is sitting on the needle you cast off on to. Make sure to knit or purl them all in the same direction. Sometimes they can get a twist to them. Easiest way to transfer to HK, do a few rows of waist yarn in another color. Then pick up the stitches and finish. 
I agree with the ribbing question, it is not the nicest looking and takes longer to do than I like.


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## Sarah KW (Mar 31, 2011)

Good to know I have options too if I don't like the look of the machines mock purling.


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## Laurelbee (May 5, 2011)

Sarah, sometimes it is hard to stretch the handknitted rib to the km needles. I find that the best and easiest way is to begin the piece on waste yarn and a ravel cord, then when that piece is completed, pick up the main yarn stitches above the waste yarn and knit the ribbing downwards. So long as you cast off carefully and not tightly, the work is lovely. Then you can pull out the ravel cord and all is done All the best xxx


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## JoyceinNC (Oct 28, 2011)

I combine hand and Bond machine knitting all the time and am very happy with the results. About ribbing - I started doing the ribbing by hand, but it takes so long I ended up making myself learn to re-latch the stitches while on the machine to form ribbing.

From learning the hard way, I prefer to do ribbing on the machine because of it's speed. (I do a lot of volunteer/charity knitting.) When making knit hats, like ski hats, I prefer to do the decreases on a hand needle because it's faster than moving all those stitches to the center when the decrease is made.

The basic instructions I got with my Bond machine are very good concerning ribbing, the DVD is great. It's very simple to change to hand knitting from the machine. Knit the machine part first, then do the hand work. If the hand part needs to be attached to the beginning edge of the machine part, start with waste yarn, then knit what you need on the machine. When done, bind off, remove from machine bed. With a circular knitting needle that fits smoothly in the machine stitches (I use size 7 with knitting done on a #3 key plate), pick up the stitches connected to the waste yarn. Unravel the waste yarn and knit away!

When I make a hat, I knit the body starting with waste yarn, slip the stitches on the bed onto a circular knitting needle, DO NOT cut the yarn, flip the piece over and do the ribbing per basic instructions. Bind that off. Go back to the top of the hat and knit the rows of decreases by hand. When done with decrease rows, cut yarn leaving a long tail to run through last few remaining stitches, pull tight to gather up, then sew the seam using your favorite stitch.

It's best to knit a sample on the machine, let it rest, then experiment with hand knitting needles to see what size is a comfortable fit. I usually use a circular needle to transfer machine stitches on to because then I can begin knitting from whatever side the yarn is on without worrying about the needle being backwards! The curve of the cable makes it a great stitch holder when working the ribbing on a hat, too.

There are youtube videos demonstrating just about everything you can imagine on all the machines out there. Check them out so you can be truly happy with the machine you purchase. Some of them are VERY expensive, you don't want to regret it after you open the box.

Hope this helps!


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## diamondbelle (Sep 10, 2011)

I always hand knit the ribbing, then hook the stitches onto the USM. This eliminates the several rows of waste yarn needed before starting your project. It also helps me because I still have trouble with the cast-on and knitting the first couple of rows. My carriage sometimes jams. Having the ribbing already knitted eliminates this problem for me.


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## Dukesy (Dec 9, 2011)

I'm with Laurelbee. When I first got my KM 20 some odd yrs ago, I tried to hang the knitted ribbing and found it impossible on a chunky knitter. Since then, I have started with waste yarn then knitted the ribbing by hand.


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## Ingried (Sep 23, 2011)

How about knitting the main body of the item on the machine and finish the rest by hand.
You may also start by hand and then put the stitches on the machine.


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## JoyceinNC (Oct 28, 2011)

Ingried said:


> How about knitting the main body of the item on the machine and finish the rest by hand.
> You may also start by hand and then put the stitches on the machine.


That's what I was trying to get across to everyone about how I do knitted ski-type hats. Sorry for any confusion. The key is to get the hand knitting needle to fit just right in the machine stitches, not too snug to work, not too loose to change the gauge. It really does work, and for those of us with simpler machines, it's a good alternative to stitches or patterns that may be too difficult to do on a USM type machine.

I don't think knitting the ribbing first and putting it on the machine needles would work for me, it would just be too tight to stretch across the needed stitches on the machine. Please do check out the basic instructions included with Bond machines and on youtube about doing ribbing on the machine. After I did it a couple of times, it was very easy and produced a ribbing very stretchy.

Using waste yarn is a breeze, it unravels in a few seconds and keeps the weighted hem from over-stretching the knitting being added on.


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## GWYNETH LLOYD (Jan 3, 2012)

Does anyone know how to do a CLOSED EDGE cast on as I find casting off by hand tedious ..... I have a wonderful USM , but this is the only draw back. I used to have a Toyota and as far as I can remember I did not have to cast off /bind of by hand.


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## GWYNETH LLOYD (Jan 3, 2012)

By the way , I love getting this useful and informative newsletter, thanks.


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## JoyceinNC (Oct 28, 2011)

GWYNETH LLOYD said:


> Does anyone know how to do a CLOSED EDGE cast on as I find casting off by hand tedious ..... I have a wonderful USM , but this is the only draw back. I used to have a Toyota and as far as I can remember I did not have to cast off /bind of by hand.


Youtube has just about everything you could want, and probably a lot you don't want! Others posting on KP have suggested going to Youtube and doing a search just using USM in the search box. If you still have your instruction manuals that came with your machine, several cast on and bind off methods are covered. If your machine came with a DVD, even better! My instruction manuals suggest using different CO and BO for different projects/purposes. Be aware that the closed cast on may not be the best for all projects.

You may also find helpful info at needlesofsteel.org/uk. Please keep in mind that the Bond machines sold in the UK may have a different hem weight device than we do. Many of the videos from the UK I've watched show a comb style hem weight.

If you don't have your original owners manuals, visiting bond-america.com may get you one. I don't know if they are free or for a charge, but those manuals are very important when you want to try something a little different than what you have been using.

Machine knitting is a whole different thing from hand knitting, but I sure love my Bond machine. Hope you find the info you need to make your machine knitting more fun!


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## jwkiwi (Oct 9, 2011)

Great info, thanks Ladies. I have been trying to think of the best way to handle the ribbing too. I never thought of doing the ribbing after I knitted the main part, so I will give that a try. Not sure what size needle to use for the ribbing, any suggestions?


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## MissPennie (Nov 23, 2011)

GWYNETH LLOYD said:


> Does anyone know how to do a CLOSED EDGE cast on as I find casting off by hand tedious ..... I have a wonderful USM , but this is the only draw back. I used to have a Toyota and as far as I can remember I did not have to cast off /bind of by hand.


Check out this thread here on the forum: http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-41446-1.html


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## shirleyuptin (Jan 23, 2012)

Hello Sarah
I have a knitting machine similar to USM and I prefer to knit the ribs by hand and graft them on - to knit them and try to attach to a machine is hard-the other alternate which you suggested is to ladder up which Ifind time consuming.
Maybe someone might have a solution for both of us
Shirley


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## diamondbelle (Sep 10, 2011)

I recently completed a sweater on the USM, using Red Heart Supersaver yarn, Keyplate 3 dot, and had hand knitted a 1x1 ribbing on size 4 needles. The ribbing was stretchy enough to go onto the needles.


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## Laurelbee (May 5, 2011)

jwkw Whatever needle you would usually use for ribs in that yarn is the one to use for machine knitting, assuming the knitting is a good tension that looks like hand knitting. My Bulky is Brother 230 and I find that double knitting works well on T1. xxx


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## Laurelbee (May 5, 2011)

jwkw Whatever needle you would usually use for ribs in that yarn is the one to use for machine knitting, assuming the knitting is a good tension that looks like hand knitting. My Bulky is Brother 230 and I find that double knitting works well on T1. xxx


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## Laurelbee (May 5, 2011)

jwkiwi, sorry for the mis spelling of your name xxx


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## GWYNETH LLOYD (Jan 3, 2012)

Thank you, I shall look at these two sites x


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## Ellie in Houston (Mar 10, 2011)

Sarah KW - Check out http://www.knittinganyway.com/products/yarnmast.htm.

Once in the site - go up to left hand corner and click on Shop - you will see Multiple Adjustment Latch Tool - click on that - there is a place to click on - that shows you the tool in motion. I bought one.

My computer will not connect with the thread but it is right. Ellie


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## MissPennie (Nov 23, 2011)

Ellie in Houston said:


> Sarah KW - Check out http://www.knittinganyway.com/products/yarnmast.htm.
> 
> Once in the site - go up to left hand corner and click on Shop - you will see Multiple Adjustment Latch Tool - click on that - there is a place to click on - that shows you the tool in motion. I bought one.
> 
> My computer will not connect with the thread but it is right. Ellie


You just need to remove the period at the end of your link, Ellie.

Try http://www.knittinganyway.com/products/yarnmast.htm


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## shirleyuptin (Jan 23, 2012)

What do you mean by double knitting
from Shirley


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## JoyceinNC (Oct 28, 2011)

Ellie in Houston said:


> Sarah KW - Check out http://www.knittinganyway.com/products/yarnmast.htm.
> 
> Once in the site - go up to left hand corner and click on Shop - you will see Multiple Adjustment Latch Tool - click on that - there is a place to click on - that shows you the tool in motion. I bought one.
> 
> My computer will not connect with the thread but it is right. Ellie


That really does look like a must have tool. Thanks for the link!


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## Ellie in Houston (Mar 10, 2011)

Pennie - Thanks - I have had trouble with that I will double check the end of the link. Ellie


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## Laurelbee (May 5, 2011)

Shirley, In Australia double knitting is 8ply I think it is the same in UK Or perhaps Sports Yarn. xxx


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## M-Nicoli (May 18, 2016)

I have the Bond machine. I always HK the ribbing. I usually use knitted worsted yarn so I know what size needles I have to use for the ribbing. I also do one row (all k) with larger needles and then I transfer the stitches to the machine. I never had problem hanging the HK ribbing on the machine. I don't use the plastic skirt. I've knitted one and I use fishing line instead of the elastic thread. The fishing line is easy to pull.


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## etrnlife (Jun 10, 2014)

You can do mock ribbing. Knit EON for the twice the depth you need, bring the first row up and hang on the empty needles in between and carry on.

Does your sweater require ribbing? Ribbing on sweaters was to draw it in to help keep the cold out. Not really needed so much for that purpose. Hems work nicely.

You can crochet cast on with 3-4 strands of the MY and then drop all but one to knit with. You can crochet, hand knit, or even machine knit a trim afterwards.


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