# #16 -CLOSED -THREE LEAF CLOVER RIB SOCKS -with patchwork cat



## Designer1234

*THIS WORKSHOP IS NOW CLOSED *- _You are welcome to 
read it, copy it and, hopefully you will find it of value in your knitting adventure. - All our closed workshops are available for future use by KP members. enjoy_!

Welcome to our l6th workshop- Designer1234 here

*PLEASE READ THE FOLLOWING WORKSHOP INFORMATION*

_As we are running many many workshops this year, and as there are just two of us- we would appreciate it if you read the following_.

*ALWAYS start reading at the beginning of this workshop, even if you join in late*.

This is important as sometimes corrections are made there and additions to the information. If you are starting the class, make sure you check from page 1.
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First of all - These workshops are NOT KALS where members join in together to solve problems and make suggestions to each other.

These are Workshops, taught by a teacher - or if it is a pattern, the teacher is here to help in situations where a pattern is difficult to follow. Others are the teacher's own designs and methods.
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*It is important if you are taking a workshop that you read the following: thanks*.

#1-once you have posted on this topic- it means you have automatically joined in.
*There is no signup and no cost*. If you have posted, all future posts to this workshop will be mailed to you automatically unless you change your setting at the top of this page to 'unwatch' - your watched topics will also be shown at the top of the page Watched topics where you can see all of them make sure you open at least one email about the workshop each day if you delete them the emails stop.

#2 PLEASE NOTE: As the teacher has spent a lot of time preparing this workshop and in many cases is teaching her specific way of doing the project -*please don't post links 
unless they are approved by the teacher*. Often there is much info out there and if you want to use other methods, or techniques please wait until the workshop is finished -this includes using U tube - if you wish to discuss other methods, please pm the teacher before you post about different 
techniques or ways of doing things.. We ask that the teacher posts any different technique after the student contacts them.

If you feel that it might be helpful - don't post it - but instead pm your teacher and she will post it if she thinks it is helpful.

#3- *As a matter of courtesy- please let the teacher answer questions about 
the workshop* - _each teacher will do their best to drop by the workshop at least once a day, we have found that questions answered by students incorrectly can cause confusion_.

#4-If you have any problems with downloads etc. please go to the main section- see link below - and read our TECH HELP topic - However, if you are having difficulties which are not solved there,please post on the workshop and our tech Manager will answer you or pm you privately.

#5 *If you wish to go to another workshop or topic in the workshop section, from these pages - go to the top or bottom of the workshop pages and you will see 
KNITTING AND CROCHET PATTERNS WITH DESIGNER1234 (on the same line as the page number)* - click on either of them and you will arrive at the link below-

http://www.knittingparadise.com/s-105-1.html

*Never give out the actual workshop link*. the above link is the only one that is given to workshop students and all other KP members. It is necessary as if each workshop used the specific link it would be chaotic as we will have so many separate workshops this year.- use the main page link above in ALL cases.

#6 -*One of us (Managers)will be trimming the workshops at least once a week of posts that are not questions and answers about the project being taught, or repeat questions*

All our workshops will remain permanently in this section even after they are closed, and we want to keep only pertinent information. You are welcome to post comments etc. however, we will just delete them after about a week at the most - sometimes less. _We do, however, ask that you use a bit of restraint as it keeps both of us very busy trimming all the workshops_.
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Thankyou - designer1234 and prismaticr (Section Mgrs.)

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*I will now introduce our Workshop teacher patchworkcat ( Jill)* who has kindly designed this pattern for you.

WELCOME


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## Designer1234

*Welcome to all those who have taken previous workshops. It is nice to see that some of you from the other sock workshops are joining us as well as some who have taken more than one of these KP workshops *- _where all the teachers are KP members who are willing to share their knowledge. Most have never taught and if I am correct, none of them have taught on line_.

Important Please read the posts every day or two as IN ALL THE CLOSED WORKSHOPS -questions you may have might have already been answered. This makes it easier on the teacher.

*I also want to welcome all the new visitors to this workshop*. Please read from the very beginning. 
You will love her original pattern! I would urge you to print it out for your files. Each section will be covered here on the workshop- Welcome to you all from both 
prismaticr, and myself - Designer1234


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## Patchworkcat

Hello everyone, I'm finally back home from the yarn sale. Just for the record, I bought in excess of 48 balls of yarn (several different types/colors) for $1.00 each plus tax. I'm a very happy stasher right now.

It's very exciting to see so many people interested in learning my way of knitting socks and trying out the pattern. I promise that the hardest part will be the very first few rows, but that is always the case whether it's using 4-5 double pointed needles, two circulars, or magic loop. Once you get those beginning rows done, the rest will come easily and I hope you find knitting socks using the magic loop method as handy as I do. 

I'll be here off and on throughout each day to answer questions and help in any way I can. I'll be posting the actual pdf of the pattern on Monday morning (or late Sunday night) EST. Throughout the workshop I'll also be posting photos from the pattern to help explain as we go along.

Again, welcome to everyone.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

For those of you who are't interested in lace, this basic sock pattern can be knit using plain stockinette for the leg, or use a rib all the way down the leg. 

Here's a photo of a sock (second one on the needles now) using the same basic pattern, but with a varigated rib stitch. The stitch doesn't show up much since the yarn is also varigated, but my husband loves it.


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## Patchworkcat

jmai5421 said:


> Hi Jill
> I have all the supplies but am curious why 2 dpn's of one size and 1 of another. I am trying to figure out where. I was thinking you might use one for the cuff. It looks like a cable. Just wondering?
> Judy


*Just one of the "tricks*" I use to make it easier for me.

_ I use the largest dpn to cast on all the stitches, and the 2 dpns that are the same size as the working needle to work the heel_. It will all make sense once you have the pattern directions, I promise. (And, there are no cables on this particular stitch pattern.)

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

charlenekbenton said:


> Hello, I have never tried sock knitting & have been wanting to learn. My question, can I do this class without knowing how to do the magic loop or do I need to learn this first? If I need to learn 1st where do I go to pick up this instruction?


*You will learn how to knit socks using the magic loop method by following the pattern instructions and I will be here daily to answer any questions you might have*. The pattern is extremely detailed with directions spelled out and photos of nearly step along the way.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

moonieboy said:


> I can't wait until this workshop begins. The largest length my yarn store carries in needles is 29 inches can I do it with this length or should I order a longer needle?
> Moonieboy


In my experience, the shortest length cable that will work comfortably is 32 inches. Most people actually prefer longer than that.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

I just wanted to say thank you and *welcome to all 68 people (as of 7:20 p.m. EST) who have signed up for this workshop*. Your response to this workshop and my pattern is quite a delightful surprise to me.

So, thank you and welcome!

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

ruthann1942 said:


> I want to join this workshop. I just ordered these circular needles a couple days ago before I knew about this class and don't expect them for a week or so. I don't want to purchase them again locally to begin this class. I have dpn size 2 - can I begin them on those and transfer them to the circs when they come? I have only knitted 1/2 of 1 pair of socks which I just finished but want to learn a pattern.
> Ruth Ann Martin


If you can match the gauge of 9 stitches/inch with dpns, you shouldn't have any trouble transferring the stitches once you receive your new circular needle.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

shirley m said:


> looks like I will have to do mine in a varigated wool. I have just been looking at the Spotlight Autumn catalogue, lots of new wools, but I can't buy plain colours in our shops, and ordering on line takes so long to get here. I have been waiting for my ASJ pattern for nearly 2 weeks! Otherwise, would I be mad to try using baby wool? Shirley M.


*What yarn you choose to use depends a lot on whether or not you can get the gauge specified: 9 stitches per inch*. If you're close to that, you're probably good to go. Remember that with socks knitting tightly is very good so you might have to use a smaller needle than usual.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

*Day One*

Welcome to the Knitting Paradise Workshop for knitting the Three Leaf Clover Rib Socks.

If you follow along, you will learn MY way of knitting socks top down using Magic Loop. _Every sock knitter develops a way of knitting socks that make the process easier for them. Here you will learn some of the tricks that I use_.

The pattern will be made available as a downloadable pdf on Monday, February 25th, the official start of this workshop.

*The pattern is twelve (12) pages in length because not only did I spell out every step in detail, I tried to take photos of each step along the way. I also included a chart of the lace pattern, instructions on how to read the chart, also an easy to follow chart that spells out each row, and a chart for keeping track of where you are in the process*. I use that last type of chart for nearly all my patterned knitting as I frequently seem to get interrupted while knitting and I hate having to spend time figuring out where I left off only to be interrupted again before I even start.

*The materials you will need to knit these socks are*:

Sock or fingering weight yarn
2 double pointed needles size 2.5mm (or size to get gauge)
1 double pointed needle size 3mm (2 sizes larger than working needle)
1 circular needle size 2.5mm with a minimum cord length of 32" (or size to get gauge)
2 stitch markers
1 locking stitch marker
row counter

*Gauge*: 9 stitches per one inch of stockinette stitch

For the socks pictured in this pattern, I used Heritage Sock Yarn by Cascade Yarns. There were 437 yards in the skein and I used about 3/4 (maybe a little less) of it.

How much yardage you will need depends on a number of variables: how long you knit the leg portion, how long you knit the foot portion, whether you add or delete stitches from the overall stitch count, how tightly or loosely you knit.

I knit this particular pair of socks for my daughter who wears a size 6-7 American size shoe. If I remember correctly the leg portion measured approximately 7 inches in length from the top cuff edge to the beginning of the heel.

I confess that I never knit a gauge swatch for socks. I never have. The only way I know that my gauge for the stockinette portion of this pattern was 9 stitches per inch is because I measured after the socks were completed.

I generally knit tightly. That's very good for socks because the more room the stitches have to rub against each other, the faster the socks will wear thin.

If you generally knit loosely, I would suggest using needles at least one or more sizes smaller than I did

. The ribbing needs to be snug enough to stay up yet stretchy enough to pull on over the heel and up the leg.

The lace portion has quite a bit of stretch to it and should present no problem concerning fit. The top of the foot will have some stretch because of the lace, the heel and sole should be very firmly knit as those portions get the most friction from wear.

I have another confession to make.

This is really just a basic top down sock pattern with a heel flap. The reason I wrote this detailed pattern was to help any knitter who had never knit socks because they thought socks were too complicated or difficult. I use it for nearly every single pair of socks I knit.

The actual stitch count will vary depending on whether the finished socks are for my daughter, myself, or my husband and the thickness of the yarn used.

Socks (in fingering weight) for my daughter usually have a stitch count of 64 stitches depending on whether I knit the entire sock in stockinette or use a patterned stitch.

Socks for my husband (in fingering weight) generally have a stitch count of at least 72-74 stitches. It's very easy to adjust this basic sock pattern for either stitch count.

So, if you want to substitute a different stitch for the lace, it will still work out with only slight adjustments here and there. I actually prefer k2, p2 ribbing for sock cuffs.

I like the way it looks and it seems to stay up the best, but for this lace pattern the k1, p1 ribbing flowed nicely into the lace design.

*If anyone is interested, I can offer other stitch patterns that work up well within this basic sock pattern's parameters*.

Some things are difficult to describe in words and some people are visual learners so I will be posting links to Youtube knitting videos at certain points during this workshop to help explain some steps.

If you have a particular favorite video, send me the link via PM and if I think it explains the procedure well, I'll post it here for everyone.

As we work through this pattern, please keep in mind that THERE ARE NO KNITTING POLICE!

I am simply showing you how I knit socks. My way is most certainly not the only way, and if it just doesn't work for you, or you prefer a different method, that is absolutely okay.T his workshop is to show my way of knitting socks using the magic loop.

I hope that you learn something new or, at least, get to practice a different technique.


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## Patchworkcat

evesch said:


> count me in on this although I may not get started till I can take the pdf to the printer to have copied as my printer is out.


I'll be posting most of the pattern details and photos as regular Workshop posts so you can get it just from reading through as we go along. However, I haven't quite figured out yet how to convert the charts into jpg format. If I can get that done, I'll be able to just post them directly to the Workshop, as well. No promises on that, though.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

Dowager said:


> I have a question already. If we are using a circular needle, why do we need the dpns? You see, I have arthritis and carpal tunnel in my hands, and my finger pads are numb. I have tried to used dpns several times, but I cannot seem to hold onto them, or keep the stitches on them. Is it possible to do the dpns part on circulars?
> 
> Also, can I use just a regular safety pin instead of a locking marker? Our local Wal-Mart didn't have the locking markers, and it's the only place in town that carries any yarn or knitting supplies at all, and their selection is very limited.


I use the largest dpn to cast on the stitches and then transfer them to the circular needle. It helps keep the cast on loose. The dpns that are the same size as the working needle are used to knit the heel. If you have another circular needle in the same size, you could use that to knit the heel just so the heel stitches are kept separate from the stitches not being worked.

The locking stitch marker is used simply to keep track of the beginning of each round. You can use anything you have on hand, instead. A safety pin, a loop of yarn or thread ... anything handy just to mark the beginning of the round. I don't even keep it on the needles, just several rows below. For the first couple of inches, the tail remaining from the cast on is my guide.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

Dintoo said:


> I'm going to have to use a size 3mm needle for my socks. I have a very old 2.25mm steel needle that was my mothers, but it is very unbending. I can get the gauge on it, but would never be able to do the magic loop on it. The gauge for the larger needle is 8 sts. per inch. Or I think I have dpns in a small size and could use them, but don't really want to. I much prefer using the magic loop. Would I be able to figure out the pattern using the 3mm needles? Thanks. Jinny.


The pattern will work for any sock gauge, but the size of the finished sock will vary. For socks, especially the heel and foot portions, the tighter you knit, the better. The more friction there is between the stitches, the fast the sock will wear thin.

The gauge for this particular pattern is 9 stitches per inch. With that gauge, the finished sock will fit a woman's size 6-7.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

For those of you who are concerned about gauge, check out the Workshop on socks taught by 5mmdpns. Go here: http://www.knittingparadise.com/s-105-1.html and scroll down to Workshop #4. You can find info there about sock gauge.

If you absolutely can't get the same gauge as called for in this pattern, PM me and I'll try to help you figure out how to proceed. As I said in my initial post, this is really just a basic sock pattern to which I added a lace stitch. I use the same pattern to knit socks for myself and my husband just by adding to the overall stitch count.

If you've never knit socks before, I suggest you use the most inexpensive sock yarn you can find and consider the first sock as practice. It will fit someone, if not yourself. Make the second sock and donate the pair to charity. The best thing about knitting socks is that they are portable, fairly quick (even for slow knitters like me) and they always fit someone, if not the originally intended recipient. And, once you have the basics of sock knitting nailed, they're easy to navigate your way through from cuff to toe.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

Here is a bit of a teaser. It's from the first page of the Four Leaf Clover Rib Socks pattern pdf.

========

I started knitting socks as a way to teach myself how to knit using double pointed needles. Ending up with a sock was a learning experience in itself. (That first sock is hanging on my craft room wall as a reminder of that frustrating time.) When one needle in my favorite set of short wooden double pointed needles snapped in the middle of a complex row, I moved on to using two short circulars, but kept getting distracted and ending up with all the stitches crowded onto just one short circular. So, that's how I learned the magic loop method, quite by accident. Now it's the only method I use to knit socks. Therefore, these instructions are written for knitting the socks using the magic loop method.

While there are scores of knitters who thoroughly and frequently enjoy knitting socks, there are many others who feel a bit timid about getting started. The first part of this sock pattern is written for the knitters in the latter group. There are also quick directions (at the end) for those knitters who are comfortable with abbreviations and charts.

The first part of this pattern is written out in excruciating detail with plenty of photos to help at each stage of the process. I have assumed that the knitter knows how to knit, purl and pick up stitches. When the directions reach the point of using the ssk decrease, I have given detailed instructions explaining how I prefer to make those. You may, of course, make the ssk any way you so desire. 

For those knitters who prefer (or want to learn how) to knit from a chart, I've also included a chart for the stitch pattern with detailed instructions on how to read and use the chart.

The stitch pattern, stitch pattern chart, symbol key, abbreviations, quick instructions, and various other aids are given at the very end of this pattern. It is suggested that the knitter read through all the directions before beginning this pattern.

I should also mention that I am a fairly tight knitter. (Hence, the broken wooden double pointed needle.) If you are unable to match my gauge, try using a larger or smaller needle. Also, if you want to make these socks in a different size, I would suggest changing your needle size as a first resort.

You can, of course, try these socks on as you knit them, to better judge their snugness and length at any point during the knitting process. I can assure you that I did.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

lpeni said:


> My size 1 circular is 48" long. Is that to long?


I don't think it will be too long. You'll just have longer ends to fiddle with. My best recommendation is to try it and see how it works for you. I use a 32" because that's what I have the most of, but it gets a bit tight some times.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

I received a question about US sizes vs mm sizes. A 2.5mm needle is a Size 1 US needle. BUT, a US Size 1 needle can also be 2.25mm. It can be confusing. That's why I list needles sizes in millimeters.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

Here's the pdf of the Three Leaf Clover Rib Socks.

For those who prefer to work directly from the forum:

Gauge (stockinette stitch)
9 stitches = 1 inch

Note: The number of rows per inch is not as important as matching the stitch count gauge because the socks are knit to a preferred length. The lace pattern has more stretch to it than the stockinette foot will have, therefore some stitches will be eliminated by decreasing at the end of the leg. The lace pattern continues across the top of the foot, while the sole is knit in plain stockinette stitch, until the beginning of the toe when all stitches will be knit in stockinette.

CAST ON

Using the 3.0 mm double pointed needle and the long tail cast on method, cast on 67 stitches (uses approximately 35 inches of yarn for stitches and includes a 6" tail).

Note: Using a needle sized at least one size larger than the working needle helps ensure that the cast on edge is not too tight.

Transfer 34 stitches to the circular needle. Pull cable until stitches are all resting on the cable. Transfer the remaining 33 stitches to the other end of the circular needle.

Alternatively, you can transfer all the stitches at one time to the circular needle and then separate them by inserting a needle between two stitches, hooking the cable and then pulling the cable out into a loop. Make sure that none of the stitches fall off the needle tips.

Make sure the stitches are not twisted on the needles. You can either use the locking stitch marker (or a regular marker) to show the beginning/end of a round, or simply use the position of the tail as a reminder.

CUFF

There are several ways to join the round:

1. Pull the needle on the top out so that the stitches are on the cable and simply begin knitting the round. (One stitch will have to be decreased to have the proper stitch count.)

2. Move first stitch on bottom (or front) needle to become first stitch on top (or back) needle. Knit 2 together. This maneuver joins the round into 66 stitches.

3. Alternatively, and my preferred method, cast on 66 stitches and transfer the first stitch on the top (or back) needle and place it on the bottom (or front) needle; take 
what was the first stitch on the bottom (or front) needle and place it on the top (or back) needle. Tug on the yarn ends to tighten up the stitch and begin knitting the first 
round. This method creates a nearly invisible join.

NOTE: Because I prefer one side over another to be the public side of my sock cuff, and because I use the invisible join described above, my first stitch is knitted backwards or what would be considered wrong. Usually, the working yarn is held in the back and the first knitted stitch is worked off the front needle, I do the opposite just for the first round. I knit the first stitch from the back needle. (If you watch any of the first three videos listed below, you'll see what I mean by front and back needle.) By the time I've finished the first round, the needles have ended up in the proper position so that the first stitch of the second round is knit using the yarn from the back needle. The videos will hopefully clear up any confusion caused by me trying to explain this in words. It's more difficult to write out than expected. Please use whichever method of joining makes the most sense for you.

Look at the photos closely to see how to hold the needles after casting on the stitches.

These YouTube videos all show how to begin knitting using the Magic Loop. The first three show the needle with the working yarn held in the back and join the round by simply knitting into the first stitch.





 (Liat Gat)





 (Knit Picks)





 (Knit Purl Hunter)

This video shows how to make an invisible join by casting on an extra stitch:





 (New Stitch A Day)

Work 1x1 rib (*knit 1, purl 1; repeat from * to end of round) - 20 rounds

This should get you started.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

bkennard said:


> I was reviewing the pattern and the charts with the wording on them appear to be off for row 2. They read, Knit 2, Yarn over, slip 1, Knit 2 together, PSSO, purl 1. However when you are looking at the chart it looks like Knit 2, Yarn over, slip 1, Knit 2 together, PSSO, YO Purl 1.


*CORRECTION*
: 
You're right. I am so sorry.

*Correction for Round 2: The chart is correct, but the wording should read as follows: Knit 2 stitches, yarn over, slip 1 k2tog psso, yarn over, purl 1 stitch*.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

Patches39 said:


> Hi all, just downloaded pattern and will be ready to start, after coffee, and take Meds.


*I promise that the most difficult part of the entire pattern is the same as when starting any project: the first 2-3 rows*
._ Once you get past the fiddly part of keeping the needles where they belong and making the cord loop behave, the rest is easy-peasy_.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

ATTENTION! *Here's the corrected version of the chart with each round (row) spelled out. Sorry for any confusion*.

Jill

this is the correct chart!


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## Patchworkcat

*Once you have finished knitting the ribbed cuff, you will begin the lace portion of the leg*.

*LEG*

Arrange stitches so that there are 30 on the needle that begins the round, and 36 on the second needle.

_Having the stitches arranged this way allows for the completion of the six stitch pattern without having to interrupt it across a round between needles_.

_ This will also ensure that the correct number of stitches required for the heel are on the appropriate needle when you have knit to that point in the pattern_.

Work in stitch pattern for 66 or 72 rounds at which point the leg, including the cuff, measures 7" (or desired length).

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

Dowager said:


> O.K. goit my sock started, on round 5 of the cuff. Didn't doi the long-tail c ast=on as I don't know how. I looked it up on a website that had a video AND written directions and I still couldn't get it! *sigh* So anyway cast on and have part of the 5th round done. I hate it that I knit so slow. I am using a size 1 needle as I am a loose knitter, and my swatch on 1 1/2 needle came out to 8 stitc hes per inch, not 9.


You've gotten started and that's the most important thing in the beginning. *Took me forever to figure out the long tail cast on, too. Now it's the only one I use*. Since your gauge is coming out looser than mine, be sure to knit very tightly once you get past the cuff. _Cuffs are more comfortable if they're not extremely tight. They must fit over the heel of the foot when pulling on the sock, after all_.

Once you've finished the cuff,_check to see how you like the circumference of the sock_. *If it seems like it's going to be too large, you can eliminate 6 stitches (one pattern repeat) to snug it up or if that seems too much, drop down another needle size*.

Don't worry about being a slow knitter. So am I. It takes me two weeks to knit a pair of socks ... if those socks are the only thing I'm working on and if I work on them for the better part of each day and evening. I once timed myself knitting ... I knit approximately 12 stitches per minute. That's really slow! Thankfully, I knit because I love the process more than the finished product.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

For those of you who would like to have the charts handy here on the forum, I've posted them below.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

catlover1960 said:


> -I also got 8 stitches to the inch with a 2.25mm needle and am going down to a 2.0mm (this is the smallest needle I have). I also have a long narrow foot (9.5" length and 8" circumference). I am worried that the sock will be too big with 67 stitches. I usually knit my socks on 60 stitches. Should I start with the 67 stitches and then decrease 6 stitches after the cuff or just start with 61 stitches. Also if I am working on only 61 stitches will I need to make the 6 stitch decrease at the heel


Since you have the smaller needle, use it to knit the cuff as directed. It's only 20 rows, so if it turns out too large, it won't be too devastating to rip out. The lace part has quite a bit of stretch to it, so eliminating one pattern repeat should still work for you, if necessary. That would give you 60 working stitches on your needles.

If you choose to go with 60 stitches, let me know when you reach the heel and I'll help you work through it.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

scrumbler2011 said:


> Jill, I found it really hard to do the 'extra stitch' join as the line of stitches is so short on each needle. I watched the video by 'new stitch a day' but he had many more stitches on the needles and cable, and did not have to stretch the cast on row. Perhaps I was not using the magic loop method correctly.
> . . . I did manage the join and first row of rib. I realise it will get easier as I do a few more rows.


It's so difficult to explain in just words how I do that join, but I don't have any way to make a video of it, as of yet.

Look at the photo of the two needle tips with the stitches cast on them.

The bottom needle has the yarn tail and the working yarn hanging from it. I hold those two needle tips very close together making sure the stitches are not twisted.

Then I use one of the dpns to move the first stitch from the top needle to the bottom needle.

Then I move what was the first stitch on the bottom needle to the top needle.

(Now the working yarn and the tail are hanging from the top needle).

Snug up the stitch by pulling on the tail and the working yarn a bit.

Pull out the bottom needle so its stitches are all on the cord and use it to knit the first stitch (yes, it will feel wrong) on the top needle.

The round is now joined and after working several rounds the only way you can tell where it begins is by the tail hanging down

. This also makes the public side the one I prefer.

If that part doesn't matter to you, after switching the stitches, pull out the needle with the working yarn attached (and the tail) and use it to knit the first stitch on the other needle.

Make sense?

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

Revan said:


> Is it OK to use the provisional cast on? I tried the long-tail, but it is too loose when putting it on the circular needle? I have never knit in the round. Maybe I should practice this and then attempt the socks. Revan


You may use any cast on that you prefer. However, you actually want the cast on to be very loose. The edge will snug up after you knit your first row. The cuff (and leg) must be knit loose enough to pull on over the heel of the foot, yet snug enough to stay up without sagging down the leg. Using a needle at least one size larger than the working needle helps to ensure the cast on is loose.

As a side note: the provisional cast on is usually used when making a picot or hemmed cuff. I've not heard of it being used with simple ribbing.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

bkennard said:


> I am almost ready to start the heel. I do have a problem though as I do not have 2.5mm double pointed needles nor another 2.5mm circulart needle and there is no local yarn store to get them from. I was wondering if I could do this heel using the existing 2.5mm circular that I am using. I have done heels that way before and they have turned out. I followed the Very Pink Knitting videos for magic loop to do my heels before.


*If you know how to work the heel flap using the working needle, then do so, by all means. Because I only use a 32" circular needle, it would be too difficult for me. My way is most certainly not the only way to get it done. This workshop is just to show the way I personally knit socks*.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

charlenekbenton said:


> Jill,
> I have a quick question , what brand circular needle do you use? I am using a Clover Bamboo circ that seems to have rough joining between the bamboo & the plastic cable. Your cable looks to be more relaxed than mine, mine is also a 48" needle since it was all that JoAnns had in stock. if I need to buy a different one that works better I will....this one seems to be giving me fits!
> Thanks,
> Charlene


*I primarily use Knit Picks needles. KP needles are the best I've ever used and are reasonably priced. Their customer service is one of the best I've ever experienced. If a join fails or there is any other problem, Knit Picks replaces them without any making me jump through hoops to get it done. I'm even partial to their sock yarn because of the price, ease of care, and wearability*. (And no, I don't get paid to toot their horn.) <lol>

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

jasann100 said:


> Hi there Jill, was looking forward to this workshop, I have cast on and got the stitches onto the circular needle, all the stitches are straight, but I cannot seem to be able to handle the join, there do not seem to be enough stitches to comfortable join the rounds even though I am pulling the cable as per the pictures, could I do this on double pointed needles as I like the idea of knitting from the top down, I have never knitted socks before and would like to try, many thanks, Jasann100


Look on Page 3 of this Workshop, I think it's the 13th post and you'll see where I explained how I do the join.

Don't get too hung up on making the perfect join. If it's easier for you (and a lot of people do this), just knit the first 2-3 rows flat and then make the join. You can go back later and sew those beginning rows together using the tail of the yarn and neaten everything up nicely.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

jmai5421 said:


> Hi Jill
> The socks are going great. I am doing two at a time on two circulars,so I am not as far as some. I have the ribbing done on both and am about to start the pattern on the cuff. I like the way you have the written next to the chart. I have been knitting for 60 years and have never followed a chart except for two color knitting and intarsia. Now I can compare line by line and perhaps learn.
> I also went to your web site. I hope everything is o.k. with you. Also thank you for the free sock pattern. I love it and will perhaps make them when I am done with this pair.


I've thought about knitting socks two at a time on one circular, but fighting with two balls of yarn at the same time would just drive me nuts. My way of knitting two at a time is to work the cuff on one, and then the cuff on the second one. Then I go back and finish the leg on the first and follow up with the second sock. So I go back and forth between the two socks. Much easier for me.

I keep notes on the first sock so I can make the second sock to match exactly row for row. Basically, I just make note of the number of stitches and rows and the yarn I used. That way I can make another pair months or years later without having to refigure all the needed info.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

jangmb said:


> I was unable to do the invisable join. I just did a regular join on this first sock.:-( i now have two rows on the cuff. Thank you for sharing your pattern and your well organised presentation. It will be a goood addition for me to learn your way. I will work on your invisible join because it will give a nicer edge. I just did not want to delay my start. Jan


Personally, I always feel that just getting started is better than putting things off. Perfection comes with practice and I'm still practicing.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

jmai5421 said:


> I should have explained the two circulars. I am doing the magic loop on each of them. I am also using the row counter for both of them. I just want them done at the same time or close to the same time. So I am making two separate socks just doing the cuff of each and now I will do the pattern stitch to the heel on one and then repeat on the other. etc.


Yes, I do that sometimes, too. I do it especially if the pattern stitch is complicated or so boring I can hardly stand it (personally, I hate knitting ribbing). Working both socks, more or less, at the same time ensures I won't put off knitting the second sock.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

*HEEL*

Note: This heel is a simple slip stitch heel flap. I use it primarily because it wears very well and is comfortable.

*The heel is worked using half the number of stitches required for the entire sock. Using one double pointed needle (2.5mm) and right hand needle (holding 36 stitches)
turn work*.

*Slip the first stitch with yarn in front and purl across stitches as follow*:

*Row 1*: purl 3, purl 2 together, purl 3, purl 2 together, purl 4, purl 2 together, purl 3, purl 2 together, purl 3, purl 2 together, purl 3, purl 2 together, purl 4.(Six stitches evenly decreased leaving 30 stitches on double pointed needle.)

*Note*: Working the heel will be easier if you thread the dangling needles of the circular needle down inside the leg of the sock to keep them out of the way until needed again.

*Using the 2.5mm double pointed needles work the heel back and forth in rows as follows*:

*Row 2*: *Slip 1, Knit 1; repeat from * across row
*Row 3*: Slip 1, purl across row

*Note*: _ Slip the first stitch of each row by inserting the right hand needle as if to purl and slip the stitch onto the right hand needle without working it_. (The yarn should 
remain in whatever position it needs to be for the next stitch: back on knit rows, front on purl rows.)

*Repeat rows 2 and 3* for 31 rows ending ready to begin a right side row (or until heel measures 2" or desired length.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

Before beginning this next part, I always make sure that I won't be interrupted. For some reason, if I have to lay it down in the middle, I'll mess it up every single time.

*HEEL CUP (turning the heel)*

NOTE: IMPORTANT- Each decrease (purl 2 together and ssk) forms a small gap.

On the next row the decrease is made using stitches from both sides of the gap which closes it nicely. (See Photo)

*Row 1*: Slip 1, knit 16, (ssk: slip the first stitch as if to knit, slip the second stitch as if to knit, insert the left needle through both slipped stitches in the front, and knit them together), knit 1, turn work (10 unworked stitches)

*Row 2*: Slip 1, purl 5, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn work (10 unworked stitches)

*Row 3*: Slip 1, knit 6, (ssk: slip the first stitch as if to knit, slip the second stitch as if to knit, insert the left needle through both slipped stitches in the front, and knit them together), knit1 (8 unworked stitches)

*Row 4*: Slip 1, purl 7, purl 2 together, purl 1 (8 unworked stitches)

*Row 5*: Slip 1, knit 8, (ssk: slip the first stitch as if to knit, slip the second stitch as if to knit, insert the left needle through both slipped stitches in the front, and knit them together), knit 1 (6 unworked stitches)

*Row 6*: Slip 1, purl 9, purl 2 together, purl 1 (6 unworked stitches)

*Row 7*: Slip 1, knit 10, (ssk: slip the first stitch as if to knit, slip the second stitch as if to knit, insert the left needle through both slipped stitches in the front, and knit them together), knit 1 (4 unworked stitches)

*Row 8*: Slip 1, purl 11, purl 2 together, purl 1 (4 unworked stitches)

*Row 9*: Slip 1, knit 12, (ssk: slip the first stitch as if to knit, slip the second stitch as if to knit, insert the left needle through both slipped stitches in the front, and knit them together), knit 1 (2 unworked stitches)

*Row 10*: Slip 1, purl 13, purl 2 together, purl 1 (2 unworked stitches)

*Row 11*: Slip 1, knit 14 , (ssk: slip the first stitch as if to knit, slip the second stitch as if to knit, insert the left needle through both slipped stitches in the front, and knit them together), knit 1 (0 unworked stitches)

*Row 12*: Slip 1, purl 15 , purl 2 together, purl 1 (0 unworked stitches)

*18 stitches on needle*

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

I've had several people tell me that they wanted to knit their socks for a man. Here's one stitch pattern that I use to knit socks for my husband. His leg and foot are, of course, larger than mine so I increase the stitch count to 72 stitches and use 2x2 ribbing for the cuff. He likes longer socks so I generally knit the leg for 80-90 rows before beginning the heel. The foot is usually 70-80 rows before beginning the toe.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

britgir said:


> What were those stitch counts 72/36/18? I assume the 72 is the sts, but what are other two numbers?
> Sue


I am horrible at numbers so I put what I need to remember where I can easily find it. *The total stitch count is 72 with 36 stitches on each needle and half of each needle is 18*.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

charlenekbenton said:


> Forgot to ask what size this sock fits, what is your hubby's shoe size? My brother for which socks will be bday present has a much longer thinner foot than my hubby so flying blind here.
> Again, my thanks!


My husband wears a size 10 US shoe, but he has a very wide foot. That's why just about any ribbed pattern fits him very well ... lots of stretch.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

ssusan said:


> I'm confused. Am I suppose to have 66 or 67 stitches? Thanks Susan


The sock stitch count is 66 stitches. If you are planning on joining the first round by knitting two stitches together, you'll need to cast on 67 stitches.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

jasann100 said:


> I'm sorry Jill, I just cannot manage to join the knitting with the circular needle, even pulling the cable out it just doesn't work for me, so I have transferred the work to four double point needles, keeping the stitches that are separated to use in the heel, it seems to be going along ok, even though I am slow, I am determined to knit these socks! I am used to using double points, I recently knitted a rabbit all on double points!


Knitting socks should be an enjoyable experience from start to finish to wearing them. If you're more comfortable using dpns, then by all means use them. I still use them for some things ... just not socks. This pattern will work using magic loop, dpns, or two circulars, even though it's not written specifically for any method other than what works best for me.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

I asked my husband to take a few photos to help me demonstrate how I join the first round. We did our best. Hope this helps. (Note that "right" and "left" mean how the needles present in the photos.)

After stitches have been transferred, tail and working yarn will be coming from left needle. Tug gently on ends to snug up the first stitch. Pull out the right needle so stitches are resting on the cable and begin knitting the stitches on the left needle. The first two stitches will be a bit fiddly to work because the working yarn is right there, but once you're onto the 3rd and remaining stitches all should go smoothly.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

Just a reminder: The way I join the initial round using Magic Loop doesn't eliminate any stitches (it just rearranges two of them), so I do not cast on an extra stitch.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

For those who wanted to knit larger sized socks for the guys, I cobbled together a few quick charts and some fast directions. If you find a mistake, or if there is anything confusing, just let me know.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

*Fair warning knitters:* I cobbled that pdf together very quickly. I won't be surprised if there's something in there that doesn't make sense. If so, please let me know and I'll try to fix it.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

scrumbler2011 said:


> I have a small narrow foot and would like to go down to 60 stitches from the cuff.(Cuff just completed). As I understand, I will go down one set of patterns for the leg . However, I will need some direction with stitch numbers for heel.
> Many thanks Jill,
> June


The heel flap is worked on half the total number of stitches. In your case, that would be 30 stitches. Working back and forth, slip the first stitch of each row and work the slip stitch pattern, as usual.

Let me know when you get that far and I'll walk you through the heel cup and instep.

Jill


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## bkennard

As I didn't have any solid sock yarn and we have no local yarn store I used what I had. It is a light green with a varigated complimentary stripe. Yarn is Debbie Norville Serenity yarn.


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## Designer1234

Hi LADIES- DESIGNER HERE!

As soon as we get pictures of a couple more socks I will open a
"Parade of Three leaf clover ribbed socks with patchwork cat"
in the pictures section on the forum

For all those who are not too familiar with our parades -- each workshop has a parade on 'pictures' showing the work of the students in that workshop. they are all outstanding -- We hope that each of you will show a picture here, and when the "Parade" is open that you will post pictures there too. I will be opening a Parade for this workshop as well as the Surprise Jacket workshop within the next couple of days! 
----------------------
Here are the list of all our Parades -- they are worth checking out!

dpns socks : http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-117372-1.html#2237117

Sweaters: http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-121117-1.html

Waterfall tops: http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-117284-1.html

Stashbuster bags - http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-116648-1.html

Slippers: http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-111122-1.html

Preliminary lace: http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-124789-1.html

newsboy caps, etc. : http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-138308-1.html

magic loop: http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-139087-1.html#2659057

Winter's mirage lace: http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-139322-1.html

Magic Loop Toe Up Socks: http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-140856-1.html#2694305

Let's have fun with color: http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-144946-1.html


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## Patchworkcat

scrumbler2011 said:


> What is the best way to reduce 66 stitch rib down to 60 working stitches of the leg?
> Thank you,
> June


I think the least visually obvious way would be to decrease the 6 stitches evenly spaced across the last row of ribbing before starting the pattern stitch.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

mlw2504 said:


> Jill,
> 
> I am thinking that I need to use 72 stitches for my cuff. How will this affect the rest of the pattern. My leg circumference for the cuff is 10 1/2 inches. What do you think?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mary


If you're using a stitch count of 72, then just add an additional repeat of the pattern stitch. It should work out just fine.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

*Working the Instep* (Use photos as a guide.)

Knit 9 stitches using double pointed needle. 
Knit remaining 9 stitches using circular needle (pull up needle from right side of leg)

Pick up 18 stitches along left side of heel (put needle point through both loops of slipped stitches), place marker, pick up 1 additional stitch.

Knit in pattern (row 1 of chart) across instep, place marker (Pull loop of cable through after 12 pattern stitches to re-form Magic Loop.)

Pick up 18 stitches along right side of heel

Knit 9 stitches from double pointed needle.

There should be 27 stitches on the first needle before the marker, 13 stitches after the marker, making 40 total stitches on the first needle.

There should be 18 stitches on the second half of the needle before the marker, 27 stitches after the marker, making 45 total stitches on the second needle.

There should be 85 total stitches on the needles, which will be reduced to 67 stitches to complete the foot. (The extra stitch after the first marker on the first needle is purled and used to delineate the instep pattern from the plain stockinette stitch sole.)

*NOTE*: I count picking up the required stitches as Round 1.

Round 2: Knit 24, knit 2 together, knit 1, slip marker, purl 1, work in pattern across 30 stitches, slip marker, knit 1, slip one stitch, slip the next stitch, insert left needle into the front of both slipped stitches on the right needle and knit both together, knit 24.

Round 3: Knit 26, slip marker, purl 1, work in pattern across 30 stitches, slip marker, knit 1, knit 1 through the back loop, knit 24.

Continue in this manner repeating Rounds 2-3 until the total stitch count has been reduced to 67 stitches. (Decreases are done every other round. The total round 
count will be 18 rounds for the instep.)

*Note*: I always use a row counter when knitting socks. Not only am I picky about both socks being as nearly identical as possible, it's easier for me to keep track of where I am in the pattern. While knitting the instep, remember that decreases are always done on the even rows and the odd rows are knit as presented, either in pattern, or in stockinette.

*A different way to ssk*: slip the first stitch as if to knit, slip the second stitch as if to purl, insert the left needle through both stitches in the front, and knit them together. On the next row, knit the stitch made by the ssk through the back loop. This method gives an even appearance to the line of ssk decreases that more closely matches the opposite side that uses the knit two together decreases.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

One aspect that makes knitting socks rather simple is that the basic construction stays the same for everyone. A sock usually has a cuff, a leg, a heel, a heel cup, an instep, a foot, and a toe.

*Cuffs* can be utilitarian knit using simple ribbing: combinations of knits and purls. I've always found that 2x2 ribbing stays up better than most any other combination. However, cuffs can be knit with a hem (either straight or picot), with decorative ribbing, and probably many other ways I haven't tried yet.

*The leg* can be knit in simple stockinette, plain ribbing, or using a pattern stitch that fits within the required stitch count. Legs can be knit long, short, or anywhere inbetween.

*The heel flap* can be knit in stockinette (though it will wear thin quickly from the rubbing of shoes), slip stitch, or other decorative stitching. Some knitters incorporate nylon thread in the heel to improve wear.

*The heel cup* is made by knitting short rows so it literally cups the heel. For narrow heels knit one stitch past center on the first row; for wider heels knit three or four stitches past center.

*The instep*, made by picking up stitches alongside the heel flap, can be decreased down to the original number of leg stitches, or made deeper by decreasing less, or made shallower by decreasing more stitches.

*The foot* can be knit plain or knit by continuing the decorative stitch pattern used on the leg. *The sole should be knit in plain stockinette and knit tightly since it gets a great deal of wear and friction*. (Sometimes I knit the foot using a smaller needle just to be extra sure it's knit tightly.) *While the leg can be comfortably loose, the foot needs to be very snug so it doesn't bunch around the foot while wearing shoes*.

*The toe* can be worked plain for a few rows before knitting the decreases or the pattern stitch can be worked all the way to the end including the decreases on either side.

*Finishing off the toe can be accomplished several different ways*: standard kitchener stitch using a tapestry needle,

kitchener stitch worked on the needles, thread the last few stitches onto a length of yarn and pull them tightly to close. There are probably other ways, too.

I use either Excel or a program called KnitBird to chart designs that fit within my parameters of 56 to 80 stitches depending on whether the pair of socks is intended for a woman or a man. Using a stitch pattern for the leg of a sock helps keep me interested while I knit both socks. I also keep a small notepad with my socks-in-progress so I can make notes on the number of rows I used for each part of the sock. I'm very picky about both socks matching exactly in row count.

However you choose to knit a pair of socks, you can make them unique just by mixing it up a bit. Socks are great for trying out new stitch patterns, color combinations (make the cuff, heel and/or toe a different color), cuff designs, heel designs, etc.


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## Patchworkcat

Something else I forgot to mention: I hope each of you are trying on the sock (if it's for you or someone your size) as you knit. I lucked out in that the first sock (the wonky one) that I ever knit would have fit me ... almost. I used that knowledge to adjust my needle size, stitch count, and yarn weight. As I said before, I've never checked my gauge before knitting a pair of socks. If I'm going to write a pattern for a particular pair of socks, I measure the gauge after it's been knit.

If, while you're knitting, you discover that the leg fits fine, but might be a bit baggy around the ankle, you'll know that you must decrease a few stitches before starting the heel. If the cuff is a bit too snug, rip it out and add a few more stitches (or use a larger needle). Ripping out a few inches of a sock is not as devastating as ripping out a few inches of a huge shawl or the body of a sweater.

Socks are the perfect little mini canvas to try out a new stitch pattern. Just remember it has to fit within your stitch count.

Socks should be fun to knit. Don't get bogged down in the details on your first go round. It gets easier, I promise.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

Okay, this time I've got the right file. This is the corrected version.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

When you have finished knitting the instep it should look like the photo below.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

mlw2504 said:


> Jill,
> 
> I have used the 72 stitches for my cuff and it fits very nice. I am using 2.50 mm needles. I am wondering if I used 2.00 mm for the rest of the sock if it would give a snug fit. I am afraid that the 72 stitches would be too much in the lace section and I do not want it to be baggy. Does this sound like it would work?
> 
> Mary


Using the smaller needle will snug it up some. Try it for an inch or two, at least, and see if it's enough. If you need it a bit snugger, eliminate one of the stitch pattern repeats. I'm afraid it will be trial and error time for you.

Jill


----------



## Patchworkcat

> How would I eliminate a stitch pattern repeat?
> 
> Mary


Using 72 stitches, you would repeat the pattern stitch 12 times around the sock. To delete one repeat, you would have to decrease 6 stitches evenly, preferably on the last row of ribbing. If you do the decreases on what will be the back of the sock, they shouldn't be that noticeable if the flow of the ribbing into the design is disrupted.

Jill


----------



## Patchworkcat

janwalla said:


> I knitted another 50gm ball to my ASJ last night and it measures around 4" but I cant take credit for being further along than you :lol: :lol: :lol: cos you are being a super teacher :thumbup: with these socks Ive cast on 3 x knit about 1" each time and pulled them back out cos it was raggy at the join. I intend to start again tonight and at least get to the pattern part so off I go to knit!!! and I wont stop till its perfect or bedtime!! :lol:


If you're having trouble with the join, try knitting 2-3 rows back and forth and then join the round. You can use the tail to sew up the little seam needed. And remember, once the socks are being worn, no one's going to be looking closely enough (probably) to even see the join.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

> I ended up having to use the 60 stitches. I am ready to do the heel. Since I am already at the 30 stitches, will I slip the first stitch and purl across without doing the decrease round? Thanks for your help. I am really enjoying this pattern.


Yes, slip the first stitch of each row. You're good to go without having to decrease any further for the heel.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

Dowager said:


> O.k. I had frogged the cuff, and started over. I am now 7 rows into it again, and have 34 stitches on one needle, and 35 on the other! *whimper*


Okay, look at your stitches closely. For the cuff, they should alternate one knit stitch, then one purl stitch. Which is giving you the most trouble: the knits, or the purls? Whichever one it is, you'll know to pay a bit more attention to those.

Check between the needles. Is there a loop that isn't really a stitch? Sometimes I don't drop the first or last stitch completely off the needle (or forget to move the yarn back into position) and end up with a wonky loop. If you've got one of those, just drop it off the needle. That little gap will close up on the next round.

How did you join the round: cast on an extra stitch and knit 2tog or transferring stitches from one needle to the other? Did you have the correct number of stitches after the very first round? If the trouble started there, try knitting the first couple of rounds as rows (back and forth) then join by just knitting the next stitch. You can use the tail to sew up the tiny seam later.

Help any?

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

hajra said:


> I am doing the instep now, I had the correct amount of sts, but after doing 4 rows I don't have enough sts to do k2tog as it says in the Round 2
> 
> Round 2: Knit 24, knit 2 together, knit 1, slip marker, purl 1, work in pattern across 30 stitches, slip marker, knit 1, slip one stitch, slip the next stitch, insert left needle into the front of both slipped stitches on the right needle and knit both together, knit 24. What am I doing wrong, I tried till 2.00 am, was too tired, will start again, pls help.


Okay, let me see if I understand what's going on here. After you picked up the stitches longside the heel, you should have had a total of 85 stitches on the needles, 40 stitches on one and 45 stitches on the second one.

Your first decrease row is the one following the pickup round and you decrease 2 stitches total. The next round is worked even with no decreases. 83 total stitches.

If you're using a row counter/the row chart, decrease on the odd rounds and work even on the even rounds.

Did this help?

Jill


----------



## jmai5421

mlw2504 said:


> Jill,
> 
> After many restarts on the lace, I think I have the pattern going well. It looks good. I am ready to start row 19. I moved my lifeline up. I had been adding stitches someway and never figured out where they came from. Now I am counting after completing the ssk row and the knit 2 together. This is my first time for lace and will be my first heel like this. I hope it turns out as well as the lace has so far.
> 
> Mary


If it helps, I put a stitch marker after each repeat, so I have a stitch marker every six stitches. That way I can tell just where I have made a mistake. I have fudged quite a bit with my first sock. I need to pay closer attention after each repeat and count the stitches on my second.


----------



## britgirl

One down, one to go! I just finished the first sock. Now to start on number two! I'm really happy with how it looks. It's the first time I am knit a lacy sock. Thanks patchwork cat. 

Sue


----------



## Patchworkcat

*FOOT*

Continue working as established across all stitches without decreasing until you have worked a total of 72 rows, including those from shaping the instep. (Or work as established until the foot measures your preferred length from back of heel to beginning of toes.)

*Set up for toe shaping*

All rounds will be knit in stockinette stitch from this point.

Round 73: Knit 16, place marker, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 7, knit 2 together, knit 7, knit 2 together, knit 13, place marker, knit 16. (64 total stitches)

Arrange stitches so that there are 32 stitches on each needle.

Round 74: Knit all stitches even

Round 75: Knit 13, knit 2 together, knit 1, slip marker, knit 1, slip one stitch, slip the next stitch, insert left needle into the front of both slipped stitches on the right needle and knit both together, knit 26, knit 2 together, knit 1, slip marker, knit 1, slip one stitch, slip the next stitch, insert left needle into the front of both slipped stitches on the right needle and knit both together, knit 13. (4 stitches decreased)

Round 76: Knit 15, slip marker, knit 1, knit 1 through back loop, knit 28, slip marker, knit 1, knit 1 through back loop, knit 13. (60 total stitches)

Round 77: Knit to 3 stitches before marker, knit 2 together, knit 1, slip marker, knit 1, slip one stitch, slip the next stitch, insert left needle into the front of both slipped stitches on the right needle and knit both together, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, knit 2 together, knit 1, slip marker, knit 1, slip one stitch, slip the next stitch, insert left needle into the front of both slipped stitches on the right needle and knit both together, knit to end of round.

Round 78: Knit to first marker, slip marker, knit 1, knit 1 through the back loop, knit to next marker, slip marker, knit 1, knit 1 through the back loop, knit to end of round.

Repeat Round 77 and Round 78 (decreasing on odd numbered rows, working even on even numbered rows) until 12 stitches remain on each needle (24 total stitches). (93 total rows for the foot from instep shaping to toe.)

Partial Round: Knit 6. Remove markers.

Rearrange stitches so that there are 12 stitches on each needle and the decreases are at each end of the needles. Cut yarn leaving approximately 12 inches to use in finishing up the toe.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

*Grafting (or Kitchener Stitch)*

Graft the stitches together on the needles using a 2.5mm double pointed needle as follows:

Line up the needles as shown in the photo with the cut yarn coming from the first stitch on the back needle.

1. Purl the first stitch on the front needle drawing the yarn all the way through and dropping the purled stitch off the needle. (Remember to always bring the yarn from under and/or between the needles.)

2. Knit the next stitch on the front needle and leave it on the left needle while drawing the yarn all the way through.

3. Knit the first stitch on the back needle. Draw the yarn all the way through and drop the stitch from the needle.

4. Purl the next stitch on the back needle. Draw the yarn all the way through leaving the stitch on the left needle.

Repeat these four steps until all stitches have been worked. (Remember that the first two stitches on each needle get attention before moving to the next needle.)

As I work these final stitches I repeat to myself:

Front needle: purl off, knit on
Back needle: knit off, purl on

The looseness in the corner will disappear when you thread the tail through to the inside and tug on it a bit before weaving in the tail.

And, once you weave in those pesky little tails, you're done! Now cast on for the second sock right away so you're at least started and can then pick it up to knit whenever you have a spare few minutes.

Jill


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## Designer1234

I just opened the "*Parade of Cloverleaf ribbed socks with patchworkcat*

find it at the following link

http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-151125-1.html#2892554

I also posted 3 pairs of Jills socks as they are so beautiful.


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## Patchworkcat

hajra said:


> Jill, sorry to be such a dumb student, I don't know what I am doing wrong, I have ripped the sock till the heel, did the heel again, picked up the stitches, the count is all correct but after the 4th round I don't have enough stitches to to knit1 after K2tog.
> There is another problem,instead of 24 sts I have 23 sts when I complete the round 2 row.
> What shall I do


Okay, let's see if I can figure this out. You've knit the heel and the heel cup.

Now knit first 9 stitches from the heel cup onto the dpn, knit the remaining 9 onto the circular needle, pick up 18 stitches along the left side of the heel flap, place a marker, pick up 1 additional stitch, work in pattern (row 1 of chart) across 12 stitches of instep, pull needle through to re-form the magic loop, knit in pattern the remaining stitches of instep, place marker, pick up 18 stitches along the right side of the heel flap, knit the 9 stitches from the dpn to finish the round.

At this point, you should have 27 stitches on the first needle before the marker, 13 stitches after the marker, making 40 total stitches on the first needle.

There should be 18 stitches on the second half of the needle before the marker, 27 stitches after the marker, making a total of 45 stitches on the second needle.

Total stitches on the needles at this point should be 85. This will be reduced every other round until 67 stitches remain to knit the foot. (See photo below)

Does this help?

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

hajra said:


> Did all the above mentioned, the problem is in the reducing, will rip it one more time and see.


Okay, the row in which you picked up the stitches alongside the heel is Row 1.

Row 2 is your first decrease row. Three stitches before your first marker, k2 tog and then knit 1. You should be at the marker now. Slip the marker, purl 1, and work in pattern to the next marker. Slip it, knit 1, ssk, knit to end. Two stitches decreased so you should end up with 83 stitches.

Even rows are decrease rows; odd rows are worked even.

It should take you 18 rounds to decrease down to 67 stitches. (Remember that the leg of the sock used 66 stitches, but you added one purl stitch for the instep to help delineate the pattern.)

Let me know if you need more help.

Jill


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## agnescr

1st sock finished second cuff started used King Cole ZigZag sock yarn,went nice and smoothly......thanks so much for pattern and workshop


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## Patchworkcat

mlw2504 said:


> Before I begin the heel, I have a question. Is the right hand needle the one with the yarn coming from it?
> 
> Mary


Yep.

Jill


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## Designer1234

here is notenuftime's beautiful navy blue sock. I am not sure whether she put it in the Parade - so will check and if not I will do it for her.


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## Patchworkcat

mlw2504 said:


> Jill,
> 
> Oh me, I ended up with 91 stitches after picking up my stitches. The instructions say knit in pattern across 30 stitches, my pattern has 36 stitches, because I'm using 72 stitches total. The difference between the 85 and 91 stitches is 6. So, how would I decrease or do I rip out?
> 
> Mary


So, let me see if I understand where you are. You've finished the heel and heel cup and have now picked up stitches alongside the heel flap on both sides?

If the leg was knit using 72 stitches, you will simply keep decreasing the instep portion until you get back to that original number. Remember to work in pattern across the instep keeping one purl stitch on each side to delineate the pattern from the sole.

If the finished pair of socks are intended for yourself or someone who wears the same size, try on the sock when you've finished the decreases for the instep. If it's too loose, keep decreasing until it fits right. If it's too snug to go over the foot and heel, you've decreased too much and must tink back until it fits right.

Does this help?

Jill


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## donna47304

Patchworkcat said:


> . Don't forget to post a photo of your finished sock. I'm gonna wanna see it!
> 
> Jill


Here are mine in Regia Marble. I didn't continue with the pattern on the foot as the shoes I'll wear these with are a bit snug.

Thanks for guiding this great workshop!


----------



## Patchworkcat

jmai5421 said:


> How do you do the kitchener with a tapestry needle?


I had to look it up, it's been so long since I've done the kitchener stitch using a tapestry needle.

Okay, first you work the set up by inserting the tapestry needle - into the first stitch on the needle closest to you - as if to purl. Draw the yarn all the way through the stitch. Now insert the needle - into the first stitch on the back needle - as if to knit. Draw the yarn all the way through the stitch.

Now insert the needle - into the first stitch on the needle closest to you - as if to knit. Draw the yarn all the way through the stitch and drop the stitch off the needle.

Next step: insert the needle - into the second stitch (now the first) on the needle closest to you - as if to purl. Draw the yarn all the way through the stitch, leaving the stitch on the needle.

Repeat the last two steps on the back needle. (Remember to work two stitches on each needle before moving on to the next needle.)

Continue repeating the moves until all stitches have been worked and dropped from the needle. Pull tail through to the inside and weave in.

The way I have the steps listed in my notes is:

1. Purl front - leave on
2. Knit back - leave on
3. Knit front - drop off
4. Purl front - leave on
5. Purl back - drop off
6. Knit back - leave on
Repeat 3-6

I'd rather do it on the needles. Easier to remember and it automatically matches the tension of the rest of the stitching.

Jill


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## Naneast

My three Leaf Clover Rib Socks with Patchwork cat using fingering weight stroll yarn from KnitPicks. Colorway is Golden Glow Tonal. Can't get Tony out of the way so I just put the socks against his body to take the pictures. I did them a little bit differently from Jill's original instructions. Does any one see it? Thank you Jill.


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## Patches39

Yaaaaaaa, I'm done. The sock is done sooooo happy. Thank you Jill you don't know how much this class has meant to me. For the first time I have been able to follow a pattern, and understand all of it, thank you for taking the time and putting in the effort. You are truly a good teacher. Also, I did the Kitchener stich as the pattern said and I love it so easy, and fast.


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## Patchworkcat

charlenekbenton said:


> Jill, have a question...I'm ready now to start the heel, the pattern reads:
> Row 2: *Slip 1, Knit 1; repeat from * across row
> ( so I slip 1, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, etc) is this correct?
> Row 3: Slip 1, purl across row
> ( so on this row I just slip the 1st stitch?)
> I will wait on your reply
> Thanks...btw this sock is gorgeous, the other one (that I frogged for the 16th time) was really wonky!


You've got it exactly right. The heel won't take long as it's on only half the stitches, worked back and forth, and only 2" (31 rows) long.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

charlenekbenton said:


> Ok, Jill....I am starting Row 2 & 3 can you tell me (don't mean to 2nd guess your pattern) why I am to slip 1, knit 1, slip 1, etc across the row then on row 3 only slip 1, then purl across the row & not slipping everyother stitch like I did on row 2....what is the thinking on this.


You slip the first stitch of every row because it makes a nice elongated stitch (easy to see) along the edge which you will be picking up later.

You slip every other stitch on the knit rows (1, 3, 5, etc.), and slip only the first stitch on the purl rows (2, 4, 6, etc.) so that all those slipped stitches get worked.

The two rows together make a nicely padded, attractive and well wearing heel.

Make sense?

Jill


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## mlw2504

I finished my first one. Maybe I can get the second one done by Monday.

I went for the "green." I used size 2.50mm for the cuff and the rest was done with 2.00 mm.

This was really a great workshop! Thank you so much, Jill. I have never been able to do the kitchener stitch. This was so nice and easy.


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## Patchworkcat

catlover1960 said:


> I'm not quite to the toe shaping. I am working on 61 stitches (30 sole stitches and 31 instep or pattern stitches). How do I do the set up for toe shaping? I should be good to go after I get the decrease and markers placed.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Catlover


Okay, I'm back ... where was I? Ummm, okay 61 stitches. You'll need to decrease one because the toe is worked on an even number of stitches. Then rearrange the stitches so you have 30 on each needle.

Row 1: Knit 12, knit 2 together, knit 1, place marker, knit 1, ssk, knit 12

Row 2: Knit every stitch

Repeat these two rows until there are only 6 stitches on each needle (12 total stitches)

Graft (kitchener) stitches together to finish toe.

Make sense?

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

charlenekbenton said:


> Jill,
> The sock yarn I purchased today at LYS is Jarbo, mini raggi...it's a German yarn, 75%wool-25% polyamid they had a lot of socks on display out of this verigated yarn....a bit heavier than the yarn I am doing the lace sock so they suggested that I use a US 2 (3.0mm) with this yarn...my question, should I use the US 3 or the US 1 I am using for the lace sock. I am thinking I might be smart in swatching first....what say you?
> Thanks


Okay, this pair of socks is for a man? Which stitch pattern are you going to use? If you do the waffle stitch, start with the larger needle and then when you get to the heel, go down one size so the heel and foot are knit more tightly (better wear). If you do the varieated rib stitch, use the larger size for the entire sock. The stitch has stretch, but will still fit snugly overall. Still ... there's something to be said for swatching and seeing which fabric (tight or a bit looser) you prefer and making sure of the size.

Having said that, one reason I never swatch for socks is simply because I've knit so many pairs and I know my own knitting style so well, I just know when to use a 1.25mm needle and when a 3mm needle is best. How much a particular stitch pattern will stretch is key for me.

Does that help at all?

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

charlenekbenton said:


> Yes thanks! If your suggested gauge for each is always 9-stitches/inch then the 2.5mm US1 needle will be closer as I said the swatch turned out 7/inch on the size 2 circ. I think I want to do the varieated rib sock so if I understand you, I should go ahead & use the larger even if i cant get the 9-stitch/inch use the larger which with this yarn gave me 7st/inch?
> Sorry to be so redundant, I have frogged too many times already....trying not to frog this new sock LOL


Are you talking in millimeter sizes or US sizes? Millimeter sizing is more accurate and most needle gauges give both.

Going by the variegated rib socks that I'm knitting now (for my husband - 73 total stitches, 9 st/inch, 2.5mm needle), they fit me nicely - 7.5 wide shoe (except for length, of course), but they also fit my husband, and he wears a size 10 EEEE shoe. Lots of stretch in those ribs; they really hug the foot nicely.

I generally check the sizing by cheating a bit. I knit the cuff and then try it on. If I can pull the cuff away from my leg about two inches (or more), I know it will stretch enough for my husband. He likes the leg of his sock to be about 9" long. When it comes to the foot, I knit until it covers my toes. At that point I know to begin decreasing his socks for the toe shaping. As I said, I've knit quite a few pairs of socks for him and he harrumphs if I ask him to keep trying on a sock-in-progress. The cheating ... ummm, measuring is a bit different when I'm knitting socks for my daughter. She wears a 6.5-7 shoe.

Does this help at all?

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

jangmb said:


> Jill, are the instructions to use for the toe on page 13? If this is the right page - and I do the first decrease - count to do the next two stitch counts - OK - but afater the second decrease on that round - leaves me with a number of stitches that does not match what the pattern says. If page 13 has the correct instruction, I will tink back and re-read the directions to see what I missed. Thanks for your help, Jan


Umm, the written pattern has 12 pages. The directions for setting up the toe shaping is on page 8. Each decrease round eliminates 4 stitches (2 on each side of foot/toe). Each decrease round is followed by a round worked even without decreases.

Don't forget (like I forgot to write in the pattern) that you need to do one extra decrease on the right side to eliminate the extra purl stitch you picked up for the instep. I usually work that decrease on the last round of the foot before starting the toe.

Does this make sense/help?

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

Charlene asked me to post a photo of her finished sock. So, here it is ... good job!

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

scrumbler2011 said:


> Greetings Jill,
> As I discussed with you earlier, I have knitted my sock leg using 60 stitches (for my narrowish leg). I am now ready to begin the heel. I understand I need some further info to knit this heel. Can you please send me some directions?
> Many thanks,
> June - sweltering in Melbourne (Aust)on our 8th day in a row of over 30 degr Celcius. So grateful for air conditioning!


The heel is nearly always worked on half of the leg stitches, so for 60 total stitches, the heel would be worked on 30 stitches. When the leg is done, turn your knitting so you'll be working on the stitches just knit.

Slip the first stitch, purl across 29 stitches, turn.
Slip the first stitch, *knit 1, slip 1; repeat from * across row.

Repeat those two rows until heel measures 2" or desired length.

If you need help with the heel cup, let me know. Just remember that the first row determines the width of the heel. If you have a narrow heel work to just one stitch past center; if you have a wider heel work 2-3 stitches past center.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

diane647 said:


> Patchworkcat said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> diane647 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Jill,
> 
> I have had alot of trouble with the cuff. Finally got it. Now I'm strugling with the turn and using the double point needles. I did a sample with worsted yard. However the sample doesn't seem to resemble the looseness of the pattern stitch, Any suggestions? Thank you.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure I understand what you're asking here. Are you working on joining the cast on or have you finished knitting the ribbed cuff?
> 
> I finished the cuff. I need help with the section where you put the 36 stitches on the double pointed needles and turn then purl. This seems awkward , so I must not be doing this correctly.
> Jill
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Okay, so if I understand correctly, you're ready to start the heel. You should have 30 stitches on the first needle and 36 stitches on the second needle (the one that ends the round). The second needle is the one holding the stitches that will become the heel. So, turn your work so the wrong side is facing you. Use a dpn to slip the first stitch, and purl across the back side of the second needle following the decrease instructions in the pattern (slightly more than halfway down page 4). You will need to decrease 6 stitches across that row evenly spaced.

Then continue knitting the heel using just the double pointed needles (2.5mm), following the pattern.

Does this help?

Jill


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## jmai5421

Finished one sock and to the foot of the other. The yarn is 5th Avenue Toe-rrific sock yarn. I got it through Hershners. The color is violet. It looks like a grey dull in the picture. It is much brighter. I waited until day time to take the picture hoping for sun but we have a grey snowy day.


Designer here - I love the color and the socks look great Judy.


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## britgirl

Just finished my pair of socks. I did follow the instructions for doing the Kitchener stitch with the dpn needle for the second sock rather than with tapestry needle as I usually do and that I did for the first sock. Both toes look the same, but I have to confess that I do find it easier with the tapestry needle, but was nice to learn about doing it a different way. Thank you patchwork cat. This workshop has been very helpful to me and I am glad to have done a pair of socks with a pattern, and, of course, using Magic Loop.

Sue


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## Patchworkcat

knitwitconnie said:


> I have fits with Kitchener stitch too, but I'm getting better. I have to go into a room by myself with no distractions. What is the 3 needle bindoff? Is it like the top of a hat where you knit two stitches together ever other row or so in pattern? Just curious. The toe looks great, as does the sock! I'm still working on my first cuff!


Kitchener stitch might be easy for some knitters, but I'm not one of them, either. Even working it on the needles, I make sure I won't be interrupted in the middle of it.

Here's a You-Tube video (Liat Gat) that shows how to do a 3 needle bindoff: 




Jill


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## Patchworkcat

Beverly Jean said:


> Jill, I am working off of 60 stitches and am down to P. 7 of the directions. It says there are a total of 85 stitches and the decreases are worked down to 67 stitches. Should I decrease until I am down to 61 stitches? It will take more than 18 rows to get there. Will it work out? Thanks in advance.


Once you've picked up the stitches along both sides of the heel flap and are back to the middle of the heel, just start the decrease rounds alternating with even rounds until you're back to the original number of stitches. (If the leg was knit with 64, decrease until you have 64 for the foot; if the leg was knit with 60, decrease until you have 60.)

Also, keep in mind, that if you think the foot would fit better (snug, but not too snug) with fewer stitches, then keep working the two rounds (dec round/even round) until you have fewer stitches for the foot. Sometimes, I'll work the foot with a size smaller needle so I have the same number of stitches, but a tighter gauge and so a snugger fit.

Keep trying on the sock as you knit, so you can get a better "feel" for how the sock is going to fit when finished. I use each pair I knit as a learning "experiment" for the next pair.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

britgirl said:


> I did my socks with the 66 stitches. I would like to knit another pair with 60 stitches. I have read your instructions for scrumbler 2011 for doing the heel. Now I am wondering how you would adjust the heel cup and the instep for the smaller number of stitches.
> 
> Sue


I think I already just posted here what you need to know about the instep (just keep working the dec/even rounds until you get back to the original number of stitches). If not, let me know.

As for the heel cup: The first row is worked a little past center (1-3 stitches), then the decrease (ssk), knit one more stitch, then turn. If your heel is narrow work 1 stitch past center, if wider then work a few more past center.

My own personal opinion is that it is better to work the heel cup too narrow rather than too wide. If the heel has too much room inside the sock, the sock will slip around and wear out faster. If the heel cup is a bit on the narrow side, no harm done ... that I've noticed. The toes might complain, but the heel is tougher.

Jill


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## agnescr

Well here they are ...thanks


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## Patches39

Here is my pair of socks thanks.


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## jangmb

Finally have sock #1 finished. I used Kollage Sockalishous. Love that sock yarn from Kollage. I made the leg a couple of repeats less than pattern, other than that I followed your pattern exactly, Jill. I do like this Kitchner stitch better than with the needle. This is only the second time I have done the Kitchner. Went OK until the last 5 or 6 stitches - must have done something wrong because one stitch was "loose" and dropped two rows. I picked it up with crochet hook and re'did two knit stitches and tied it all together with the tail. Not exactly kosher - but at least it is done and I will try do better with the Kitchner on sock #2. I do not know if it shows on the picture or not. Thanks again for your workshop and your pattern which is a super sock pattern.


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## Patchworkcat

britgirl said:


> Just finished my pair of socks. I did follow the instructions for doing the Kitchener stitch with the dpn needle for the second sock rather than with tapestry needle as I usually do and that I did for the first sock. Both toes look the same, but I have to confess that I do find it easier with the tapestry needle, but was nice to learn about doing it a different way. Thank you patchwork cat. This workshop has been very helpful to me and I am glad to have done a pair of socks with a pattern, and, of course, using Magic Loop.
> 
> Sue


Well, if nothing else, now if you can't locate your tapestry needle you will still be able to finish off a sock. <lol>

Jill


----------



## Patchworkcat

jangmb said:


> Finally have sock #1 finished. I used Kollage Sockalishous. Love that sock yarn from Kollage. I made the leg a couple of repeats less than pattern, other than that I followed your pattern exactly, Jill. I do like this Kitchner stitch better than with the needle. This is only the second time I have done the Kitchner. Went OK until the last 5 or 6 stitches - must have done something wrong because one stitch was "loose" and dropped two rows. I picked it up with crochet hook and re'did two knit stitches and tied it all together with the tail. Not exactly kosher - but at least it is done and I will try do better with the Kitchner on sock #2. I do not know if it shows on the picture or not. Thanks again for your workshop and your pattern which is a super sock pattern.


The only thing that really matters is if the socks are comfortable. No one is going to be examining your toes that closely (unless you're in the middle of kicking 'em in the face). If you're happy with them that's good enough. They look great to me.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

Dowager said:


> I am knitting the socks with size 1 circulr needles and Lion Brand Sock-Ease yarn. My gauge swatch came out as close as possible to proper gauge. The instructions say, "Work in stitch pattern for 72 rounds, at which point the leg, including the cuff, measure 7" (or desired length)"
> 
> I am finishing up round 9" and decided to check the length, and I get 6". so I know that i t willk measure 7" long before 72 rounds! Where did I go wrong? And what do I do now?
> 
> P. S. I'd love to go ahead and do 72 rounds and have knee socks, but I don't think I'd have enough yarn that way! And no, I don't have a kitchen scale to weigh the yarn to see if I might have enough.


The directions simply reflect how many rounds it took me to get to 7". Your mileage may vary. Just knit them for however long you want or think your yardage will allow.

I'm sure they will be just fine.

And, if you do run out of yarn by the time you get to the toes, you can always use a different color at that point. My husband has several socks with "odd" toes. <lol>

Jill


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## mlw2504

Jill,

I finished my second sock. It is a great pattern. Now my next pair will be your waffle stitch.

I would be interested in the pattern for the cabled sock. Is that one of your patterns?


----------



## jmai5421

I love my new socks. Finally finished.
Thank you Jill for all your help and your pattern for this workshop.
Judy


----------



## Patchworkcat

knitwitconnie said:


> Jill
> Is it ok to slip the slipped stitch (pattern row 2) as if to K if that's what I'm used to? And if I'm consistent? Or was it supposed to be slipped as of to pearl. Thanks. Again, sorry to be just starting.


Consistency is the key. When I slip that first stitch I just slip it from the left needle to the right as if to purl, but I don't move the working yarn; it stays behind the work. Whichever way comes more naturally to you to will work; just be consistent. The goal is to end up with a line of elogated stitches along both sides of the heel flap to make it easy to find them when it comes time to pick up stitches.

When working the slip stitch pattern within the heel, just be consistent there, too.

Jill


----------



## Patchworkcat

Grannypeg said:


> Jill:
> 
> I have four more rounds and then onto the heel and gussett.
> My working needle is the front needle and my 36 stitches are
> on the back needle. That means my back needle facing me is a purl row and I would start there - right?
> 
> Peggy


Yes, the back needle will be the one at the end of the round and that's the one you will turn and purl back across (decreasing as you go) to start the heel.

Jill


----------



## Patchworkcat

Beverly Jean said:


> I am well on my way to finishing this project. One thing I learned is to be more careful picking out a yarn to do such a neat project with. I used a Deborah Norville sock yarn and it is "pilling" before the socks are finished. My socks don't look as neat as any of the others pictures here because of it. And I'll be watching for your next work shop. Thanks for the lessons!


Some yarns are really prone to pilling, usually it's the really soft ones that are loosely plied. If you want a yarn that wears like iron try the Regia sock yarn. I've made several pairs of socks using Regia and none show any wear whatsoever. I toss those in the washer AND dryer with no problem.

I've used some really expensive yarns to knit socks (early in my sock knitting learning) and every single pair has either shrunk/felted or worn out. Now I go for Knit Picks sock yarns and have found that they wear really well, and don't cost a small fortune. I macine wash them, but then just lay them on top of the dryer to dry. By the time the rest of the load is dry, so are the socks ... usually.

Jill


----------



## Patchworkcat

charlenekbenton said:


> Jill...yes count me in for both sock patterns! When I 1st learned to knit many years ago my 1st pattern was baby booties, oh how I hated those tiny needles....finished them & swore NEVER to knit on tiny needles EVER again....now, 40+ yrs later I AM knitting on "toothpicks" & loving it!
> I looked back thru this threads pages to find the "orange-ish red" socks & couldn't find them, could you repost them?
> BTW, my sock for Bro Bob is almost ready for the toe decreases (so far i have spent about 20hrs knitting it) & I love this verigated pattern! Jill, you are such a talented knit designer & I am forever grateful to you for the time & effort you spent helping perfect strangers increase their knitting knowledge. I showed my new knit students the finished 3 leaf Cloverleaf sock & the sock in progress & they were amazed!


When I started knitting again after a 30+ year hiatus, I couldn't envision myself ever knitting with skinny needles either. Now, I prefer the smaller diameter needles and find anything larger than a size 6 (4mm) to be clumsy in my fingers. The only problem is that projects seem to take forever when knit in the finer yarns and skinny needles. Good thing I'm a process knitter, but I do get bored quickly if the pattern isn't interesting enough. On top of that, I'm a very slow knitter. <sigh>

I'm just really, really glad that everyone has seemed to enjoy and learn from this workshop. My worst fears about doing this have, thankfully, NOT been realized.

Here's a re-post of the cabled socks.

Jill


----------



## Patchworkcat

scrumbler2011 said:


> Jill, I realised last knit as I began to knit my sock heel, that as I have knitted my sock leg using 60 stitches, and instructions for the heel consist of 30 stitches, I would by pass the direction 'decrease 6 stitches in the first purl row'. So I have gone on to knit the heel with 30 stitches, without the 6 stitch decrease. Hope that makes sense, and is it correct to have kept heel to 30 stitches?
> Many thanks again.
> June
> 
> ps. I have knitted only 1 pair of socks previously to these, for which I took a 6 hour hands on workshop. Unless I had taken this introduction class I don't think I could have kept going with this on-line class. Although your instructions are very good, as an almost pure novice, I would have struggled to understand a lot of the techniques. I wonder if others might feel the same? Perhaps because I am a more visual learner!! I have used u-tube quite a bit.
> 
> In saying all this, I recognise the extraordinary amount of work and time you have put into designing and mentoring this class and I want to say a VERY BIG thank you to you. I would not have been challenged to make my 2nd ever pair of socks (yet to be completed, of course!)
> Becoming a more confident sock knitter - June


Yep, you're doing good using the 30 stitches for the heel.

I'm a visual learner, too, and love You Tube. I've used it plenty and continue to do so. Can you tell what techniques gave you the most trouble? I tried to take photos of every step involved and write out details, but figured I wouldn't catch everything. What should be explained differently or better for you? I want to improve my teaching skills since this is the very first time I've ever done it.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

I almost forgot! I did finish the Variegated Socks for my husband, so for those who saw only the one sock ... here's the pair. I think it's kinda cool that both socks have a bit of pooling across the instep at the exact same spot. I love socks that match. <lol>

Jill


----------



## Patchworkcat

scrumbler2011 said:


> Jan these are a few of the 'hang-ups I had.
> quote: "The heel is worked using half the number of stitches required for the entire sock. Using one double pointed needle (2.5mm) and right hand needle (holding 36 stitches)
> turn work. " . . . .
> 
> I agonized over this instruction for 2 days!!
> * What is a 'right hand needle'? - I had never heard of a right hand needle before.
> After watching a u-tube on 'commencing heel using circular needles', I understood! In MY notes I have written ' on the circular needle furthest away on the row I am currently knitting.' Because I am working with 30/30 stitches on my circular needle, it did not occur to me to interpret this as per your instructions 30/36, hence needle closest and needle furthest away.
> * I also could not understand the term ' turn'. Turn where?
> Again the u-tube instruction provided the answer to this, which of course is to commence knitting rows back and forth, rather than in the round.
> 
> These are very small misunderstandings of a written piece, but when you are trying new techniques, knitting alone, and often at the end of the day, and thinking processes are not at their peak they can be an easy excuse to chuck in the towel.
> Perhaps other newbie sock knitters may have some input too as to what instructions they are finding/ have found, unclear.
> When a teacher is proficient at a technique, I appreciate how hard it is to cast your mind back to the early days of learning a skill, to think of minute queries that a newbie might have. And as a pattern writer it would be impossible to cover all terms and instructions.
> So to have this forum has been excellent, allowing for queries, and having SUCH PROMPT answers. You have spoiled us indeed.
> Well done Jill !!!!! and thank you. You are doing an excellent job. I hope it has not consumed your entire waking, AND sleeping hours.
> Gratefully, June


To a seasoned knitter, they seem like small concerns and not worrisome at all, but to a novice knitter they're major!

I could have labeled a photo of the knitting on the needles and clarified which needle was the right hand one and which was the left. I can do that.

Turn work. I could have taken one of the photos and explained a bit better with labeling how to turn the work. I can do that.

I am a self-taught knitter using books and You Tube as my instructors. I well remember the frustrations of following pattern instructions that might as well have been written in a foreign language to me. I still use both mediums to learn new techniques.

Thank you so very much for bringing these concerns to my attention. I will do better in the future and my students will have you to thank for it.

Jill


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## catlover1960

I finally finished my socks; they took me longer than any other pair of socks I have made but were worth it. I did the kitchener with the needles. I found that my tension was better than when using a tapestry needle. With St. Patrick's Day coming up I think I will save them to were then. These were made with Knit Picks Essential yarn, 65% superwash merino wool, 25% nylon and 10% donegal, in the color trooper tweed.


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## Designer1234

Just to make sure you all know the link to the Parade of Three leaf clover rib, socks here it is -- check it out and please put your socks in when you can.

Three leaf clover ribbed socks with patchwork cat

http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-151125-1.html

If you want to check the parades from the other workshops, just search Parades and they are there. worth a look to see all the wonderful projects we are making. Shirley


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## Patchworkcat

*Attention All Socks Knitters!!!*

On February 25th (or so) I posted a pattern for various stitch patterns for socks geared mostly to the larger sizes men wear. One of you (thanks, Charlene) found a slight error in the way I had written the pattern so I revised it to better suit the new, slightly experienced sock knitter.

*Here's the revised (and, I hope, improved) pattern*.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

scrumbler2011 said:


> Jill, I have commenced the instep of my sock. I have successfully picked up my 85 stitch total. I have then followed row 2 (in which there is the decrease in stitch number)and row 3 (no decrease).
> Could I ask you to please write out for me rows 4 and 6(which are the next'decrease' rows? I am unsure where the stitch decrease in these rows should occur.
> Many thanks, again,
> June


On the decrease rows (even rows), you will always work to within 3 stitches of the first marker. Then, knit 2 stitches together, knit 1 stitch, and slip the marker.

Work across the instep to the next marker. Slip the marker, knit 1 stitch, slip 2 stitches and then knit both slipped stitches through the front loop (ssk), work to the end of the round.

On the odd rows, work each stitch as it presents: stockinette, or in pattern without decreasing.

Does this help?

Jill


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## charlenekbenton

Hey, there..I am trying to attach a pic ....after reading tech info this is nothing more than a trial run so here I go..........it's not working on my iPad I thought based on the sample I could delete it once I clicked on edit...this must work on computers but not on iPads. I'm going to ask everyone not to comment unless you are using your iPad & know how to walk me thru this on the iPad, otherwise, forgive me for taking up space....I was able to add my avatar but that was done on my laptop not the iPad


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## Designer1234

DESIGNER HERE!! First of all , what a great workshop Jill has given you all. And what a great group you all have been.

We have discussed this and Jill and I have decided that* this workshop will close on MONDAY MARCH 25,2013*. _It will, like all our closed workshops be available for all future KP members to read at their leisure_.

I do want to say, though, that *Jill has agreed to do a workshop in August 
for our LET'S DO CHRISTMAS EARLY ' series*. I thank her for agreeing to do this for us and I am sure you will all be there. see you then, and thanks so much! Designer1234


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## mlw2504

Here is my first Waffle Rib Stitch sock. It was so easy and it fits beautifully and is very comfortable. When you first posted the picture of the 3-Leaf Clover sock I printed it out and set it on my desk and would look at it and think, "Oh, if I could do that!" Thank you, Jill.


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## scrumbler2011

Jill, I'm in trouble again. I decided to knit the instep of my sock in plain/purl as trying to 'conserve' this wool to complete 2nd sock.
Unfortunately, I have made a mistake in stitches each side of the sock and both sides are now different. I followed the directions for ssk and knit 2 together on either side.
Can you identify from my photos what pattern I should have done to have both sides come out the same? 
I will need to frog back to the end of the leg and do the instep again. Oh well, its all in the learning.
Many thanks,
June


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## hajra

Will try to post the pic, one sock made.


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## Patchworkcat

scrumbler2011 said:


> Jill, I'm in trouble again. I decided to knit the instep of my sock in plain/purl as trying to 'conserve' this wool to complete 2nd sock.
> Unfortunately, I have made a mistake in stitches each side of the sock and both sides are now different. I followed the directions for ssk and knit 2 together on either side.
> Can you identify from my photos what pattern I should have done to have both sides come out the same?
> I will need to frog back to the end of the leg and do the instep again. Oh well, its all in the learning.
> Many thanks,
> June


It's difficult to tell just looking at photos, but if you're doing straight stockinette for the foot, you wouldn't have had to pick up the extra stitch (to purl) on the first side of the heel. After each decrease row, try to remember to count how many stitches are left on the one side before the marker and after the marker on the other side. They should always match.

And, this lace pattern stitch uses less yarn than solid stockinette. Still, you certainly don't have to continue the pattern stitch onto the top of the foot. In many cases, I don't.

I know this doesn't help much. And, you will have frog back. Sorry. But, from what I can see, the leg portion looks great!

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

scrumbler2011 said:


> I forgot to point out that it is the ridge that appears on the side of the second photo of the sock. There is no ridge on the other side. It is that ridge that appears wrong. Could I please ask you to write out the first 2 rows of the instep - excluding the clover pattern? - but please do not feel any time pressure to do this, if you are able to.
> Many thanks you for your help.
> June


I'm not sure what you did wrong. Here are the beginning steps from the heel cup to working the instep:

Working the Instep (Use photos from the download pattern as a guide.)

Knit 9 stitches using double pointed needle
Knit remaining 9 stitches using circular needle (pull up needle from right side of leg)

Pick up 18 stitches along left side of heel (put needle point through both loops of slipped stitches), place marker, pick up 1 additional stitch.

*NOTE:* If you are working a plain stockinette foot, you will not need to pick up the additional stitch. It's to make a purl stitch which delineates the pattern stitch. You won't need it. Ignore all references to the pattern stitch from this point on, but pay attention to your stitch count.

Knit in pattern (row 1 of chart) across instep, place marker (Pull loop of cable through after 12 pattern stitches to re-form Magic Loop.)

Pick up 18 stitches along right side of heel

Knit 9 stitches from double pointed needle.

There should be 27 stitches on the first needle before the marker, 13 stitches after the marker, making 40 total stitches on the first needle.

There should be 18 stitches on the second half of the needle before the marker, 27 stitches after the marker, making 45 total stitches on the second needle.

There should be 85 total stitches on the needles, which will be reduced to 67 stitches to complete the foot. (The extra stitch after the first marker on the first needle is purled and used to delineate the instep pattern from the plain stockinette stitch sole.)

NOTE: I count picking up the required stitches as Round 1.

Round 2: Knit 24, knit 2 together, knit 1, slip marker, purl 1, work in pattern across 30 stitches, slip marker, knit 1, slip one stitch, slip the next stitch, insert left needle into the front of both slipped stitches on the right needle and knit both together, knit 24.

Round 3: Knit 26, slip marker, purl 1, work in pattern across 30 stitches, slip marker, knit 1, knit 1 through the back loop, knit 24.

Continue in this manner repeating Rounds 2-3 until the total stitch count has been reduced to 67 stitches. (Decreases are done every other round. The total round count will be 18 rounds for the instep.)

Does this help? (It's basically a repeat of a much earlier post.)

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

scrumbler2011 said:


> Thank you Jill, I will try again - now we have a new morning and I have a refreshed brain, I hope.
> June


Since this workshop is now closed (supposed to be effective Monday), just send me a PM if you still need help. No problem; we'll figure it out in a way that makes sense to you.

Jill


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## Designer1234

Hi everyone, Designer here - I have been away for a bit - had a bit of surgery yesterday, everything is fine - the small cancer is removed from the bridge of my nose near the eye. I look like my face was hit by a baseball bat and it feels like it too. But things are great, no pain and i am back in the swing. 

I haven't had a chance to do any trimming, but am not in a hurry .we will be closing, as announced on Monday. 


Don't forget to put your pictures in the parade (see a previous post for the link) 

Jill, thanks for this great workshop - it has been a l00% success and we all thank you. Jill and I also thank the students who have made such great socks. Shirley (designer1234)


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## Patchworkcat

charlenekbenton said:


> Finished bro bobs bday socks


YAY!!!

Hope he absolutely loves them!

Jill :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:


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## Grannypeg

Jill, thanks so much for keeping this workshop open.

With your help, the lights went on upstairs, and I did get the
first round after the turning of the heel done successfully. I just
spent far too much time not being able to picture how it would turn out. If I had just taken the plunge I would have found it rather simple.

Great workshop Jill. Looking forward to your next one.

Peggy


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## Patchworkcat

Grannypeg said:


> Jill, thanks so much for keeping this workshop open.
> 
> With your help, the lights went on upstairs, and I did get the
> first round after the turning of the heel done successfully. I just
> spent far too much time not being able to picture how it would turn out. If I had just taken the plunge I would have found it rather simple.
> 
> Great workshop Jill. Looking forward to your next one.
> 
> Peggy


I'm so glad you enjoyed it and didn't get so frustrated with the unknown that you gave up. Learning something new can be so ... frustrating when you don't have someone sitting right there beside you to actually show you how it's done.

Make sure to post a picture of your finished socks for us all to see.

Jill


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## Designer1234

This has been a WONDERFUL WORKSHOP - Jill you have been so well organized and it is so easy to understand. I thank you as do all the students and the other Managers. We will see you later on in the Christmas Series. Keep in touch with us and I will see you in some of the other workshops. the nicest thing about running these workshops are the friendsI have made!

Ladies I want to thank all of you too - what a great job you have all done. Remember to put your finished socks (one or two) in the parade even though the workshop is closed. 

good luck to all of you. Shirley, Rachel and Nadene - workshop Mgrs.


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## Grannypeg

Jill, thanks for the other patterns as well - have downloaded them to begin later.

Peggy


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## Patchworkcat

Grannypeg said:


> Jill, thanks for the other patterns as well - have downloaded them to begin later.
> 
> Peggy


There is a small error in the Variegated Sock Pattern. An updated version will be posted here tomorrow, as it's a bit late this evening.

Jill


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## Patchworkcat

I was going to wait until tomorrow, but thought it best to just get it done.

*Here is the corrected pattern for various socks*.

Jill


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## shirley m

Jill, thank you for patterns and your patience in teaching us. I will be doing more in our coming Winter, which is when I will be doing 'catch up' on all my wips from the workshops.They are such fun, aren't they? Designer 1234 is a wonder woman. Ta-ra, Shirley M.


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## Patchworkcat

shirley m said:


> Jill, thank you for patterns and your patience in teaching us. I will be doing more in our coming Winter, which is when I will be doing 'catch up' on all my wips from the workshops.They are such fun, aren't they? Designer 1234 is a wonder woman. Ta-ra, Shirley M.


I throughly enjoyed it and look forward to doing more this summer! And, I agree that Designer 1234 is quite a lady.

Jill


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## jangmb

I am up to picking up the stitches off the heal flap and continuing on. Thanks for a GREAT workshop Patchworkcat!!! I will finish this second sock and look forward to seeing you on your next workshop!


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## prismaticr

Topic is now closed. For additional information not found on these pages. please try and private message (pm) the listed teacher.

Thank you and happy knitting/crocheting!


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