# Do it yourself motor for my machines



## Schnauzermom (Feb 20, 2012)

The RA that I have had for many years seems to assert itself more fiercely every year and take away something I enjoy doing. Having given up on my painting several years ago I am determined to keep knitting as long as I can. I have asked my son to build something for me that will move the carriage on my machines. Can't afford the store bought ones. I have never seen one of those except in photos but I know some of you must have built this before because you are so creative. My part in this project is to find as much information as I can to pass along to him. Some areas that we particularly need help with is what size motor is best and how to make it stop at the end of the row. I would like it to have a foot control like a sewing machine if possible. Any advice or information will be greatly appreciated.


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## GinB (Sep 2, 2012)

Not sure that is do-able, but if it turns out to be a possibility, maybe a good place to start is to have your son look at knitting machine motor user, service and parts manuals for the brand you have.


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## Rita in Raleigh (Aug 20, 2011)

I have not built a motor to make my carriage move. I do have various motors which came with my Brother machine, Passap machine, and Superba/white machine.

What brands of machines do you have that you want to attach a motor to?

You can find the service manuals for the brother KE100 motor at 
http://machineknittingetc.com/
The brother motor that I have (along with the machine and color changer) does not automatically enter the color changer and change color. I believe only the color changer 1000 will automatically change colors (without me pushing the change color button each time). I do not know whether the motor can be adjusted to run into the color changer.

Passap had different motors. I think mine is a 3000 or 3000a? The service manual I found is for the Passap 4600EL and is also at 
http://machineknittingetc.com/
Passap motors do have an adjustment to have them enter the color changer to automatically change colors (electronically).

Both Passap and brother motors have long drive belts to move the connecting gadget (which grabs the lock or carriage). The brother drive belt is mounted above the knitting machine and reaches down for the carriage. This sort of gets in the way of reaching the carriage for threading it.

The Passap drive belt is mounted lower, sort of even with the bottom of the beds. It reaches up to connect with the lock and therefore does not get in the way, visually, of my threading the machine.

Both motors come with a foot pedal, but it is not as responsive as the sewing machine pedal. The knitting machine pedals have no speed control. They are only on or off.

Both motors have a sliding adjustment on the motor which determines how far the carriage is pushed....meaning such as from 20L to 20R or possibly across the full bed.

Both motors have a counter which counts down to the number you have programmed it to knit. When 0 is reached, the motor stops the carriage at the end of the row. 
Both motors have a sensor that stops the motor when the yarn runs out or breaks. That would stop the carriage immediately, even in the middle of a row.

Both motors have an easy to remove connector to the carriage.

Youtube.com has videos of the motor drive in use. I searched on that site for "knitting machine motor" and got 4 hits. Two were for the brother KE100, one for the Passap motor, and one for the Singer/Superba motor. It might help to see the motors in use.

Good luck with your searching and creating of a motor drive for your knitting machine.

Rita in Raleigh, NC



Schnauzermom said:


> The RA that I have had for many years seems to assert itself more fiercely every year and take caaway something I enjoy doing. Having given up on my painting several years ago I am determined to keep knitting as long as I can. I have asked my son to build something for me that will move the carriage on my machines. Can't afford the store bought ones. I have never seen one of those except in photos but I know some of you must have built this before because you are so creative. My part in this project is to find as much information as I can to pass along to him. Some areas that we particularly need help with is what size motor is best and how to make it stop at the end of the row. I would like it to have a foot control like a sewing machine if possible. Any advice or information will be greatly appreciated.


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## 30Knitter (Apr 9, 2012)

The Brother KE100 will work on other models besides the Brother/Knitking machine. The same frame will take a bulky machine as well. 

I have seen Silver Reed mid-gauge on the frame as well. If the adapter will fit the handle, any machine will work.


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## Schnauzermom (Feb 20, 2012)

My machines are Brother KX350 and brother KH836, also have a vintage Knitking made in Germany which is the hardest to push but does beautiful work. I was hoping to come up with something I could use for all 3. Maybe I'm asking too much. I'm going to check out the sources sent so far, I know this will help. All information is appreciated.


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## Rita in Raleigh (Aug 20, 2011)

Personally I would not use a motor with the 350 plastic bed machine, as that machine could easily be broken.

I would think you could use a motor on the 836 and the vintage Knitking because they are metal bed machines and quite sturdy.

To make the 350 easier to push make sure the sponge is up to date and use a lubricant (on the needle butts and the pathway on the underside of the carriage ) which will not damage plastic. Also keep the yarn you use in the sport weight or light worsted (#3) category.

Rita in Raleigh



Schnauzermom said:


> My machines are Brother KX350 and brother KH836, also have a vintage Knitking made in Germany which is the hardest to push but does beautiful work. I was hoping to come up with something I could use for all 3. Maybe I'm asking too much. I'm going to check out the sources sent so far, I know this will help. All information is appreciated.


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## MaryAnneCutler (Jul 31, 2013)

I agree with Rita. Lubricate, lubricate and then again lubricate. Gunoil meant for plastics (Hoppes) or wax or even bar soap run over the rails.

A yarn that is not too thick will make a big difference as well as a chair that is a comfortable height for pushing the carriage. If your arms are positioned too high, it will be very tiring.


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## HederaFibers (May 11, 2017)

I was searching for other topics on knitting machine motors when I found this website. 
I was trying to find a way to make a motor for some time, as I could never afford one
as it is. 

I'm an artist that focuses in art and technology so I figured it would be right up my alley to do...
I've gotten something really rudimentary right now, but it works. 
if you would like to compare notes, i'd be happy too. 

-Cody 
Hedera Fibers


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## randiejg (Oct 29, 2011)

I used to have a Simet motor for my Brother machines. It had stoppers across the back rail so you could adjust for how far the carriage was taken to each side before turning around, but also had a foot pedal like a sewing machines so you could manually control it, such as when you are doing shaping and other hand manipulation of the stitches.

I have not used the Brother KE100, but here are the free downloads of the KE100 motor user guide, parts manual, and service manual, (made for Brother machines). They may help your son figure things out. Don't click on that big green button, just click on the link for the language you need and save it to your computer.

http://machineknittingetc.com/brother-ke100-user-guide.html
http://machineknittingetc.com/brother-ke100-parts-manual.html
http://machineknittingetc.com/brother-ke100-service-manual.html


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