# Silver Reed SK840 & DAK 8



## Jacaranda (Feb 20, 2013)

I'm fairly new to machine knitting. I'm using an electronic SK840 knitting machine with all the necessary cables to connect to DAK8. The problem is the manual only gives instructions to do the patterns using a EC1 Pattern Controller which I don't have. I need help setting the knitting machine to pattern from DAK8 via interactive knitting. The interactive knitting works with stocking stitch therefore the computer and knitting machine are responding correctly. Is there someone prepared to give me a lesson or two to get me started. I'm prepared to pay for the lessons. I live in Ireland and can travel to the UK if necessary.


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## msaltmyer (Apr 16, 2013)

Here's the link to DAK 8.0 video tutorials. You can also access these tutorials on your DAK software. The other link is from the same website where you could seek training on different countries.

http://www.softbyte.co.uk/dk8videotutorials.htm

http://www.softbyte.co.uk/training.htm


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## mrs.j (Apr 4, 2011)

hello Jacaranda,I have a brother electronic 965i and a designaknit8 like you I would love to get into it. I live in North-east england but on holiday in NZ where I am to meet ladies on 31st may who are using the system so hopefully will master it when I return home in June.
regards mary johnston.


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## Jacaranda (Feb 20, 2013)

Saltmyer
Thankyou for your reply it is much appreciated. The problem I have is not how to use the software, that I understand. I need help with how to get the machine to pattern. I'm sure this is a simple process that I'm just not getting as the manual only gives this information if you are using a PE 1 Controller which I don't have.


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## mannie (Mar 24, 2013)

Hi I have been through the same experience as you. I have SK 840 and DAK 7 but I learnt to knit using a punchcard machine, then I used EC1 and Mylar sheets, then the Silverknit system which is closely related to how DAK works. So I have gained some understanding, though I am definitely still learning.
Would it be helpful if I talked you through the process of making a couple of practice pieces, say a fair isle swatch and a tuck stitch swatch?
I am assuming that the principles are the same for DAK 7 and 8 even if some of the terminology is different. 
If you happened to be coming over to England I am only about half an hour from Gatwick airport and if you visited I could share with you what I have learned so far.
If you have any specific question I will try and answer it.
Best wishes
Mannie


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## mannie (Mar 24, 2013)

Hi I have been through the same experience as you. I have SK 840 and DAK 7 but I learnt to knit using a punchcard machine, then I used EC1 and Mylar sheets, then the Silverknit system which is closely related to how DAK works. So I have gained some understanding, though I am definitely still learning.
Would it be helpful if I talked you through the process of making a couple of practice pieces, say a fair isle swatch and a tuck stitch swatch?
I am assuming that the principles are the same for DAK 7 and 8 even if some of the terminology is different. 
If you happened to be coming over to England I am only about half an hour from Gatwick airport and if you visited I could share with you what I have learned so far.
If you have any specific question I will try and answer it.
Best wishes
Mannie


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## euvid (Apr 2, 2011)

I may be wrong but I do think you need the EC1 for the machine to do patterns. With the DAK you need the cable which you say you have and that connects to the EC1 to the computer and then the EC1 takes the info and sends it to the carriage. It does Stockin knit without the EC1 but nothing else.


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## mannie (Mar 24, 2013)

You can use DAK on interactive knitting and it sends the stitch patterning information directly to the carriage of the electronic machine, without any need for EC1. You then set the carriage to Fairisle, slip etc as usual.
You have to connect your carriage via a curly cord and a cable to the computer which is running DAK.
Mannie


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## Jacaranda (Feb 20, 2013)

Mannie
How do I contact you privately as I would be interested in the help you so kindly offered me.


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## euvid (Apr 2, 2011)

I was just checking on the cables and this is where I got my info. It says you need the PE1 and that connects to the EC-1 Look at the youtube video. THis info is on Dknits.com

SL6-USB or Silver Link 6 with usb connection - This is the same cable as the SL3-USB, except it also has interactive knitting available. The SL6-USB or Silver Link 6 actually has two cables. There is a cable to connect DAK to the PE1 directly. You can download into the PE1 easily. You then disconnect the cable and plug in the PE1 into the knitting machine. The second aspect allows knit from screen. A magnet is positioned on the carriage. The sensor is positioned on the main bed so that the magnet sensor passes very closely to the sensor. The magnet triggers the sensor and when using interactive knitting in DAK, the row advances one row for every pass of the magnet across the sensor.


When using DAK for interactive knitting with the SL6-USB cable, it is recommended that you tell DAK you are using a Brother 940 (even if you have a different machine). This seems to be the best setting for interactive knitting with the sensor/magnet.
See how PurlaGoose uses the download capabilities of this cable on YouTube


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## Jacaranda (Feb 20, 2013)

Hi Euvid
I do not have a PE1 Controller. I'm using Silverlink 4 to connect with a curly cord to the machine. Thanks for the info.


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## msaltmyer (Apr 16, 2013)

mannie said:


> You can use DAK on interactive knitting and it sends the stitch patterning information directly to the carriage of the electronic machine, without any need for EC1. You then set the carriage to Fairisle, slip etc as usual.
> You have to connect your carriage via a curly cord and a cable to the computer which is running DAK.
> Mannie


I agree. I have Sk840, Silverlink 5 and DAK 8. I just plug the silverlink to my laptop with USB cord and the curl cord to the carriage, set the carriage to knit to fairisle. No need for EC1 and PE1. But I don't know what's going on with your machine, because mine seems to be doing ok. Maybe you could try another USB plug on your computer and don't forget to set your carriage to knit fairisle. Also make sure you picked the right knitting machine on your settings.


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## euvid (Apr 2, 2011)

It seems that there is so much misinformation out there that has people, me included buying things we don't need. Very sad.


Jacaranda said:


> Hi Euvid
> I do not have a PE1 Controller. I'm using Silverlink 4 to connect with a curly cord to the machine. Thanks for the info.


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## 30Knitter (Apr 9, 2012)

You do not need the EC1 or the PE1 to connect DAK 8 to the Sliver Reed machines. The patterning will be the same for all the Silver Reed 830,840,860 and 890 machines. They all work the same. You need the curly cord, silver link box and cables to connect to computer and silver link box. You will need to make sure you make your cable connection via the computer/silver link box. 

Softbyte has a list of contacts and someone on that list should be able to help you. I do know that Helen at Newton's has make a booklet on how to use the silver link connection with DAK 8 and interactive knitting. You may want to email.


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## susieknitter (Jul 14, 2011)

I don't know a lot about this machine but the info you require seems to be on the following site.

http://www.knitknackshop.com/machines/SK840.html


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## mannie (Mar 24, 2013)

Yes Sue, that looks useful - scroll down to see a book by Charlene Shafer, SK840 made EZ, priced 12 dollars, designed to bridge the gap between DAK and the SK840. Does anyone have a copy? I'd like to know a bit more about its contents before I send off to USA as postage will probably be expensive, but it might have the answers we are struggling to find.


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## Chrisbetty (May 20, 2013)

Sorry cant give you lessons but connect up and open Designaknit .
Click on stitch designer
Click on File
Click on thumbnails
In left hand box it shows folders
Click the Designaknit folder, and then the stitch patterns folder.
There is a choice of patterns for Brother machines and silver reed machines.
Click the silver reed folder and the patterns will open up
Click on any one you want to try and then OK.
The pattern will open up as a graph.you can change the size of the graphic to fit your desired garment or whatever.
Click on interactive knitting when you have saved your design and underneath the "browse stitch patterns" your pattern will be highlighted
Click Ok
Box comes up showing you the size in stitches.you can alter these to accommodate the size you want
Click Ok and the machine sets itself and will tell you what to do if you click on the red lips to the left .Just follow the commands and play around.
Hope this helps


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## mannie (Mar 24, 2013)

That's very helpful Chrisbetty, and I would add a couple of other things, which caught me out when I started. I'm using DAK 7, not 8, but I think the logic is the same.
You have to select the right kind of pattern for what you intend to do, eg F for Fairisle, you need to check the method of knitting in options, and you need to understand the selected/deselected needles options on the yarn colour palette. This is not so critical if you are knitting Fairisle as all that goes wrong is that you knit the background as the contrast yarn, or vice versa. But if you are trying to tuck, and you have the wrong yarn colour or stitch type selected you can get in a real mess! But, as I say, this might be easier to do in DAK8, as I hope to find out when I do the upgrade.
Mannie


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## Nuttynan (Nov 21, 2013)

Hi, everyone, I need help with doing Tuck stitches using DAK 8 on an SK840 machine. I have been using DAK for a while now but the machine is new and I cannot get it to do tuck stitches, it just loose lays the yarn across all the needles. I have tried changing all the settings in DAK but to no avail. It works beautifully on skip stitches. The UK manufacturers have suggested I change the pattern symbols to 'tuck', but I have always believed that the machine does it automatically! Does anyone have any ideas?


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## mannie (Mar 24, 2013)

Hi I have the same set-up as you. i am assuming you are using a design that is suitable for tucking (card 3 for example) and that you have set the carriage to tuck. DAK needs to know which needles are selected or not selected. This confuses me, so I now always use the tuck symbol, then I can see for certain which needles will tuck. Is it possible that you have not selected the "reverse" option, so you might be trying to tuck a group of stitches, rather than a single one? Have you previously used a punchcard? If you have you will be familiar with the idea that the holes knit and the blanks tuck, so tuck cards are recognisable because they have a lot of holes. 
I would suggest that you try a new stitch pattern, just make a small grid and put a few tuck symbols on it, and try to knit it. If that works at least you will know that your problem is not with your carriage or DAK or software. Hope this helps, and sorry if I am barking up the wrong tree.


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## Nuttynan (Nov 21, 2013)

Hi, yes I have used punchcards. I had an older SK840 but recently bought a new one. I am using the SR tuck patterns but have not used the pattern symbols as I always believed that the carriage did this job. I have tried using different settings in DAK (right and wrongside and fairisle) and yes, selected Tuck. I have since used the pattern symbols and this works but it makes an easy job very difficult if you have to do this for every pattern!


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## mannie (Mar 24, 2013)

Well I'm glad it worked. I found that you can quite easily adapt each pattern simply by doing a swap - have the tuck symbol with a check mark in the right corner and the other symbol marked in the left corner then click the double arrow, that's what I do anyway good luck.


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## Nuttynan (Nov 21, 2013)

Thank you. I don't know why Softbyte & Silver Reed don't get their act together and get a combined manual then there wouldn't be so many queries!


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## aussieHC (Oct 21, 2013)

You start with the garment shape - I usually select an existing shape, then save it separately under 'save as' option in 'Shapes' folder and modify whatever I want in the garment pieces and save it again. Then, click on the left icon that takes you to stitch patterns - if you know what stitch pattern you want, and you have specified the correct tension for your yarn, you go to the garment shape that you are ready to knit, then select the stitch pattern - it will overlay the selected stitch pattern on the last garment piece that you selected. Then go to 'Options' at the top Choose 'Method of Knitting' , and select the machine Silver Reed/Studio SK840 and I usually select Fair Isle for the stitch type, even if I'm going to select a different stitch type on the carriage of the knitting machine. Then click on the knitting machine icon - a window will come up with your selected shape file preselected and at the bottom half of the window is 'Browse Stitch patterns' with a list of stitch patterns you've looked at. Then click Ok - it will come up with a pop up window - that shows which garment piece it will knit, click 'Ok' . Then a box comes up - 'Integrated with stitch pattern' - make sure this is selected and not 'shape only', and click Ok - it will take you to the interactive knitting ready to start. - make sure you set the cams on the rail where your carriage runs to the correct needles as shown on the screen box labelled 'Needles', then, with the carriage set to whatever stitch type you want, click the green stop light and you can start knitting. The display will progress with each row - and make sure you start with the carriage on the correct side of the machine, as displayed by the computer, or you will get an error if you start pattern knitting on the wrong side. It may sound complicated, but it is really quite easy - the pop-up windows that come up are very basic.

I hope this gets you going. If you want a practice run without a garment shape, just go to 'stitch designer', select a stitch type that you want, then click on interactive knitting - if you don't have a garment selected, it will ask you how many stitches wide and how many rows you want to knit the stitch pattern, when you Ok that, you'll go to the screen where you can start knitting. Give it a go - when you've done it a couple of times, you can't believe how easy it is.


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## Nuttynan (Nov 21, 2013)

Hi, thank you for all your advice. I have been using DAK for about a year so I know all about the different things you can do. I can do slip stitch OK. My problem is it will not knit tuck stitch at all, whether it is a garment or a swatch. It is a new machine and they have replaced the side levers with automatic ones, so they can't be set manually. I think this is the problem and will speak with the manufacturers on Monday.


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## mannie (Mar 24, 2013)

My side levers are automatic too; I thought they all were. It's a nuisance sometimes if you want one lever forward and one back, say for slipping one way only. But another thought. I only use the symbols now, slip and tuck, when I make my stitch patterns, but previously I didn't do that. I seem to remember there were two setting changes to be made when using a silver reed pattern. You had to select the reverse option, so holes were blanks and blanks were holes, but you also had to change the method of knitting from Fairisle to right-side facing. Is it possible that this is your problem? Just a thought.


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## Nuttynan (Nov 21, 2013)

Thank you for your advice. The machine does slip stitch no problem. The machine I have now is new. I had an older SK840 and this did not need intervention on the DAK stitch pattern. As long as the 'tuck stitches' were where they were supposed to be, you just then selected the tuck lever and off you went. I have used all the different settings in DAK, fairisle, front, reverse textures. It simply won't do it unless I make the DAK stitches 'tuck' stitches, which means you have to change every pattern you want to use tuck on! Everyone on this forum and other forums have said the same thing, just select tuck, so I am at a loss why it has changed until I speak with the manufacturers tomorrow. As to your last comment about the blanks and holes, I have had to make the holes tuck stitches in DAK.


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## aussieHC (Oct 21, 2013)

Nuttynan said:


> Thank you for your advice. The machine does slip stitch no problem. The machine I have now is new. I had an older SK840 and this did not need intervention on the DAK stitch pattern. As long as the 'tuck stitches' were where they were supposed to be, you just then selected the tuck lever and off you went. I have used all the different settings in DAK, fairisle, front, reverse textures. It simply won't do it unless I make the DAK stitches 'tuck' stitches, which means you have to change every pattern you want to use tuck on! Everyone on this forum and other forums have said the same thing, just select tuck, so I am at a loss why it has changed until I speak with the manufacturers tomorrow. As to your last comment about the blanks and holes, I have had to make the holes tuck stitches in DAK.


My SK840 doesn't allow you to move the side levers either, but I can even have a pattern selected as fair isle in DAK8 and just select Tuck on my knitting carriage and it will knit tuck stitch. Of course, we need to be careful when we select some patterns that we don't have several stitches set to tuck next to each other, but that is a different issue - we can just reverse the settings on the pattern that we select if you want, so we don't need to redraw patterns. I bought my machine new too, but it is now about 3 yrs old & I don't know the manufacture date.


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