# #34 CLOSED - IF YOU CAN KNIT AND PURL, YOU CAN DOUBLE KNIT - with prismaticr



## Designer1234

GUIDELINES FOR THIS WORKSHOP

*NOTE*  THIS WORKSHOP IS ONE OF OUR 
LET's DO CHRISTMAS EARLY SERIES

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Designer1234

*I would like to introduce to my friend Rachel (prismaticr)*

Welcome to you all!
===============
I hope you enjoy this class!


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## Designer1234

_There are now *127* members signed in as students. Please don't remove this post_

please dont forget to post progress.. we are here because of you and YOU need to give us feedback. Thank you


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## prismaticr

GOOD MORNING and *Welcome to Double knitting.*

While this technique has baffled many, it is truly very easy. We will be focusing on the basics of double knitting and working towards the more advanced. Basic double knitting is a technique used to create a double thick fabric with stockinette stitch on both sides. There is no right or wrong side. This is often used with 2 colors to create a positive and negative image on the 2 sides of fabric. This is the basic skill we will be learning.

* Please be aware, there are a wide variety of videos and links available on this subject. I am posting the links that I am most familiar with and able to answer questions about. Thank you for understanding. *

This workshop will assume you already are skilled in the Knit, Purl, and Slip stitches. If not please review them before continuing. Additionally, you will need to be familiar with most basic cast on and cast/bind off s.

*  Materials *

A pair of knitting needles US size 8 or 9

Highlighters {and I can not stress this one enough!}

2 colors of any worsted weight yarn
I suggest using solid colors for now to make things easier to learn.

Try and pick to contrasting colors so that you easily see them, Like Back and White

{Remember this is a practice swatch to learn, keep things large and not too tight. Gauge is NOT important here.}

{Chocolate or wine might be handy too. But please dont over do it, I need you to focus here}

Some important terms to learn and understand with Double knitting. Since you are creating a 2 sided fabric, there is technically no wrong side. We are working with 2 colors of yarn. You will need to designate one color the Main color (MC) or color A, and the other yarn the Contrast Color (CC) or Color B. In the video links I am using here, the 2 colors are Red and Yellow.

Another important point of note is that everything you do in Double knitting is done in pairs. For every Knit stitch there must ALWAYS be a purl stitch. Remember this is 2 sided and you are creating BOTH sides simultaneously.

OK, now breath, this is not as hard as you are already thinking it is.. {Remember that chocolate and wine you set aside before, now is the time to grab a piece or sip}

OK, so lets get started....


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## prismaticr

* TO begin *

Video 1 



Following along with the video, here are the basic instructions written out.

*Step 1*: Holding *BOTH yarns together as ONE* Cast on 10 Pairs of stitches. If you can, pay attention to keep Color A to the left of Color B but dont stress it, we can fix this.

The video suggest Long Tail cast on as it will be looser than others, but if you are not comfortable doing this with both yarns, please use a Cable cast on {video here 



 and text version here [http://www.wikihow.com/Knit-a-Cable-Cast-On]. }

Other cast ons are fine later on, but we want to keep things loose here to start off.

*Step 1a*: If you were not able to keep the 2 yarns such that A is to the left of B, then fix them now. Simply slide the cast on stitches over each other with your finger so they line up. (For more advanced thinkers, you can skip this and fix the stitches as you knit the next row)

*Step 2*: Holding the 2 yarns together you will KNIT the first and last stitch pair of this row. This will create a nice clean pretty edge.

Now to begin the Double knitting part _{Chocolate or wine at the ready}_

IT is fairly common to start off concerned with how to hold the 2 yarns while working double knit, DO NOT worry about this right now. There are several easy, comfortable ways to hold the yarns, but I am saving that for later on.
Right now if necessary, just hold one yarn at a time and drop the other.. you will get a rhythm of things as you work.

*Step 3*: Holding the 2 yarns in your preferred knitting style (English or Continental) try and keep your index finger between the yarns. This will help keep things straight as you work across the row. Following the video, you will knit the MC and Purl the CC. ALWAYS move the yarns front to back as the PAIR. Never separate the colors in that move. So you Knit the first stitch you come to with the MC (they should match), move BOTH yarns forward and Purl the next stitch with its matching CC. You have completed ONE PAIR! Continue like this across the first row to the last stitch and KNIT the last pair with both yarns together.

*Step 4*: Turn the work. The CC color now faces you. Purl the first pair with both yarns. Now separate the yarns over your index finger and again KNIT the first stitch with its matching color (CC) and Purl the next stitch with its color (MC). Continue across the row to the last pair and purl them together.

_Now if you are already confused, stop and think about this. You had color A, MC facing you on the first row we turned the work to the opposite side Color B, CC is now facing you, Do NOT now designate this Color A or MC. KEEP THEM LABELED A & B OR MC AND CC THEM SAME THROUGH OUT YOUR WORK!!!!_

Continue working Step 3 & 4 for 6 total rows or 4 more from here.

After these rows, stop. Put down your work and walk away. You really need to relax now. Finish that wine or chocolate, savor it. 
Later start the next part really, go take a break

I MEAN IT, put DOWN THAT WORK!

*WALK AWAY!*

Trust me, ok, I know what you need to get through the next part .. rest!


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## prismaticr

tintin63 said:


> 6 rows done :thumbup:


WOW... now break time! Trust me on this!


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## prismaticr

clkay said:


> I completed your first instructions - do you have to make sure the double yarns do not twist - for example always keep the mc above the cc strain when holding it (before knitting or purling)


The yarns will twist, nothing really you do about that. So every couple rows if they get too tight, just spin your work around rather than move the balls around....


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## prismaticr

jmai5421 said:


> Hi Rachel
> I am to the last two stitches of the first row where you say to knit the last stitch. My yarn is positioned so the MC(grey) is first and CC(burgundy) is last. If I knit the grey do I still knit the last stitch which is burgundy?? There would be two knit stitches in a row and the burgundy which should be purl would be knit. Do I make sense?
> Judy


If I read you right, you have 2 loops remaining on the needle... As with the first 2 loops on your needle you would knit them together as ONE stitch. This is what closes the edges and creates a nice clean edge stitch


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## prismaticr

Saroj said:


> When you say 10 pair of stitches, does that mean I cast 10 Sts or 20 Sts?


You will have a total of 20 loops on the needle.
I hope that makes it clearer. BUT these ARE pairs...and I want you to start thinking in terms of pairs!

Post a picture if you need more help....


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## prismaticr

SO I see some completion of 6 rows, and some still struggling..

Please do not rush this ok.
You need to think in terms of PAIRS of stitches. so if you are counting LOOPS, ever 2 LOOPS is ONE pair!
SO cast on 20 loops,or 10 pairs. Each pair have one loop of EACH color!

So I am going to give you more info... BUT IF YOU HAVE NOT GOTTEN THE CAST ON OR FIRST 6 ROWS DONE,

*DO NOT START THIS WITHOUT YOUR REQUIRED BREAK!!!!!!!* _ Wine sip or chocolate consumption here...._


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## Saroj

prismaticr said:


> You will have a total of 20 loops on the needle.
> I hope that makes it clearer. BUT these ARE pairs...and I want you to start thinking in terms of pairs!
> 
> Post a picture if you need more help....


I am from the old country, we always counted in pairs - so I just wanted that cleared. I got it . You are counting both colors one loop for each color. Thanks!


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## prismaticr

The charted portion _(New Chocolate or wine at the ready, right?)_

Video 2: 




I have attached the Chart referenced in the video, below.  It is an Excel sheet, a PDF and a picture. (DK CHART)

*Grab those highlighters NOW*
I suggest you either electronically or physically change the color scheme of this chart to the colors you are using. It will help you keep things straight until you are more familiar with the whole process. Highlighters here are perfect. For those with Adobe Reader, you can select the text and highlight it, then right click for the properties to change the highlight color to your personal colors! {Sorry my techie leaked out ::grin:: }

OK, so now remember you are working in PAIRS so every block on the chart is a PAIR on stitches, one knit, one purl.

You should have completed *6 rows *of knitting and have all stockinette stitches on BOTH sides of your cloth. You have a MC and CC (or A & B) Thus far you have been working matching yarns to the stitches on your needle 
to work the image, you will be switching which colors are worked with the stitch on the needle. SO for example, in the video, the MC is the red side. The chart now shows a row of Yellow worked against the Red background. To do this, with the Red side (MC) facing you, you will knit the Red stitches on the needle with the Yellow yarn. [Dont forget you are also now Purling the Yellow stitches on the left needle with the Red Yarn]

Ok no one panic here!!!!! 

This is not as hard as it sounds Watch the video! This is really a, seeing is believing moment. For those that can not watch the video please trust the verbiage. You are working each stitch (where noted on the chart) with the contrasting color.

_ A note on charts _ ALWAYS work the MC from Right to Left and the CC from Left to Right! This is where highlighters come in very handy. As we progress to more complex images, you will see how this helps. I do this with EVERY pattern I work, because no matter how experienced you are, the best way to avoid mistakes later on, is to do this one right the first time Set up here is crucial!!!!! Please do not ignore this process.

For those already freaking out about reading a chart, drink that wine or eat that chocolate and relax. We took care of you too. There was a workshop a while ago done in our workshop series on How to Read a Chart find it here: http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-125054-1.html
Need a video: 



or 




And more wordy explanation: just Google  How to read a knitting chart

If all else fails and your brain just can not process chart reading, I will talk you through a line or two until the proverbial light bulb goes on..

*We are on Row 7, in words*
Block 1-Knit the first pair with both yarns held together (as you have been) the next block 2-9 are the MC side (Red in video) Facing, but you are now creating a row of CC (yellow) so Knit yarns OPPOSITE yarns on left needle, Red to Yellow, Yellow to Red. Finish Block 10 same as Block one, with the pair of yarns together.

I am here for you. DO not start tearing your hair out... really YOU CAN DO THIS!


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## prismaticr

sutclifd said:


> I'm not happy with the look of my selvedges -- but the rest of it is really neat! I'd prefer the selvedges to be a bit more striped looking than random. Am I turning the yarn incorrectly on the 'knit both stitches' part at the beginning and end?


The edges are NOT selvedges ...they close the sides up... the yarn does twist and to make it " more striped" you can try and keep one yarn to outside over the other.... but generally they twist.
Again this is practice, so dont sweat it now....


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## prismaticr

journey7 said:


> row 9 - confusing me.
> 1st two sts knit tog.
> next st is background color.
> i'm using blue and white. the white side is facing me.
> so is the background color going to be white for the knit st and blue for the purl?
> thanks mary


OK lets see if we can straighten you out.. first do not think background foreground. THink Main Color / Contrast color.

SO .. looking at the first 6 rows. If they are white, then that side is Main Color White and Contrast Color Blue. So then on Row 9, you knit the first pair together as one stitch with both yarns, then next block is knit WHite, Purl Blue, then Knit Blue, Purl white... and so on... Make sense?


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## prismaticr

PatBrown said:


> I was wondering if we can slip the first stitch - would it make the sides secure enough? I like the look of the slipped edge...
> 
> Just wondering...
> -Pat in MD


NO. Do not slip the first stitch, it does not close the edges quite right... There is a different way to do it, but for now use this method.


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## prismaticr

In the SOTA said:


> I am brand new to DK chart reading and highlighters. I understand the right side is odd numbering. My highlighter would show right side colors on odd numbered rows.
> Turn to reverse side and even numbered rows.
> Question:
> On the printed chart, on even numbered rows, do I use my highlighter to change any color, or do I say to myself, "this block is unmarked, so use the contrasting yarn."
> I tried marking the block to reflect the color and the overall chart looked like a mess. So maybe I answered my own question. :^D


So if you are highlighting, and your colors are the red and yellow.... make the chart LOOK like the work that will be facing you as you knit.

ODD rows (right to left) would be red-yellow.....
EVEN rows (left to right) would be yellow-red...

OK?


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## prismaticr

Since several of you are power house knitters and working through this little practice piece... here is how to finish off...

*Mistakes, Oopps.. and Binding off!*

In case you do something that does not sit well with you {Because I do not believe in mistakes they are design elements. ) here is the video to Fix things

Video 3: 




This video also shows you how to bind off in the simplest way (around the 5:00 min mark)

OK, so you have worked a whole project in double knit. The fabric is nice and thick and you can see how the 2 sides are done at the same time. Easier than you thought, isnt it! Drink the rest of your wine and celebrate!

I am going to hold off on the snowflake pattern until at least later tonight... i just dont want to overload those who are still trying to wrap their little brains around the awesomeness of this simple skill......

SO the rest of you, finish up and go rest for goodness sake!


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## prismaticr

gk said:


> It only took three tries for me to get the six rows done correctly! :?
> 
> It looks like I need to bind these three rows off? I don't know how to read charts.
> 
> I'll look more carefully at this post to see if I missed the chart. I need to get the computer to print anything. I may be slowing things down. Don't wait on me. Carry on!


The chart should now be on page one.. and reading the chart is super easy. You got this far, dont give up now... 
Please give it a try and post questions here. YOU might just be the brave one to ask what others are thinking!


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## prismaticr

OH and anyone who finishes the practice piece, please post some pictures... I will save the "Parade" for after the snowflake pattern gets started... AND some more intermediate skills.....


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## tintin63

Chart finished and all bound off


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## socksaholic

Wasn't sure how to work my ends in, but hopefully that will come later. Would have shown up better if I had used a darker blue.


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## Anita1955

Much easier than I anticipated - and only one small "design" element!


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## catlover1960

Here are pictures of my practice piece. I did not cut the yarn after binding off as I want to use those colors for the snowflake pattern and I do not have a whole lot of the lighter color.


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## gottastch

Getting the hang of it. Any suggestions for a continental knitter? I sometimes get a bar in front of a stitch so think I am doing something wrong with how I am knitting them from a continental "hold."


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## Monetta55

Here is my practice piece.


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## Onthewingsofadove

I'm having trouble maintaining even tension with my stitches. I have been knitting for so long that my stitches are usually very even and smooth. Will this just cure itself with practice or do you have some tips to encourage even tension?
Trisha


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## Maryhm

Not comfortable maneuvering the yarn (twisting) and my stitches aren't even but I finished with minimal stress.


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## Maryhm

katkarma said:


> OMG -- This is so hard......Anyone else a continental knitter??? I can't seem to get my two colors from crossing each other. I can't knit without holding both yarns and am really struggling with this!!!! There's no way to drop the yarn like English knitters do....
> 
> Noreen (off to youtube to find a continental video of this)


I had the same problem. Couldn't keep the yarn from twisting.


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## prismaticr

OK... Continental holders...
YOU actually have it the easiest... Just hold both yarns on the same finger (as if it were only one yarn) and "pick" the right color as you come to it....

REMEMBER - You move the 2 yarns as 1... both to fornt or back as needed to knit or purl!

And since I see several finished practice pieces... ALL LOOKING GREAT i might add....

Here is the next part....

The Snowflake pattern and better cast on and edges.....


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## prismaticr

HEY ALL... with regards to the "twisting" LET IT TWIST!!!! This actually keeps thing together... 

When you deliberately try to keep them apart you are working against yourself....

Hold BOTH yarns on ONE finger!!!!! Keeps tension same and you just want to "pick" the right yarn as needed....

I will try and find a video which shows what i mean, or I might just have to make you all one!


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## prismaticr

OK the *The snowflake potholder*

The pattern is attached below. Please, PLEASE, use highlighters for the chart. I cant stress that enough here. My personal copy of this pattern is well marked up. 
The pattern is NOT my design, but I have worked it a few times and know it is correct as written.

Here are some advanced skills for cast on/bind off and edges so that your colorways will be very contrasting and give this a cool aspect. BUT you can always just do as you started out with a regular cast on and knitting the edge stitches together it does give a cool twist all around

Cleaner edges. 



Invisible cast on for Dking 



Invisible Bind off for Dking 




This pattern can be done in any number of color combinations. I did mine in shades of colors as they were a gift. Cant wait to see what you all come up with.

For reference, I am not by any means, an expert in Double Knitting. BUT I use it often enough and teach it comfortably face to face.

SO lets get going on this and I have a few more goodies for later on.....


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## prismaticr

Designer1234 said:


> Wow you guys! you sure caught on to double knitting quickly! Rachel, you are a good teacher!!!


See I kept telling everyone Double Knitting was easy... It is all in the basic learning....

BUT WAIT... there's more.... ::wink wink::
I can still blow your brains away....

I have goodies in the background.........     :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :roll: :roll:


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## AiLin

Phew! That took some getting used to. Here is my sample piece. I like it. 
Thank you Rachel (prismaticr) for helping us with this. I did it without chocolate or wine! I certainly did need breaks, though. 
Now to try the snowflake pot holder.


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## Lovehandles

Are the first and last stitches always knitted together or purl together? 
(Referencinfrom step 3:"So you Knit the first stitch you come to with the MC (they should match), move BOTH yarns forward and Purl the next stitch with its matching CC. You have completed ONE PAIR! Continue like this across the first row to the last stitch and KNIT the last pair with both yarns together". 

I read this as knitting w/ the main color and not knitting or purling the first stitch. Please clarify. Love this knitting!


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## socksaholic

Having a devil of a time with the invisible cast on. She moves pretty quickly and it's hard to tell how she is wrapping the yarn around the two needles. Thought I had it figured out and did several stitches of the first row and it looks awful, so I guess I hadn't figured it out. Maybe tomorrow I'll take a look at Judy's Magic cast on which she refers to and see if that helps. I may have just reached that time of night when I shouldn't be trying new things, only doing mindless knitting.


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## pmarch

Here's my practice swatch.


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## gottastch

prismaticr said:


> OK... Continental holders...
> YOU actually have it the easiest... Just hold both yarns on the same finger (as if it were only one yarn) and "pick" the right color as you come to it....
> 
> REMEMBER - You move the 2 yarns as 1... both to fornt or back as needed to knit or purl!
> 
> And since I see several finished practice pieces... ALL LOOKING GREAT i might add....
> 
> Here is the next part....
> 
> The Snowflake pattern and better cast on and edges.....


The only way I can get this to work out is if I knit as a "thrower." All I get are a bunch of bars if I knit my continental way and just put the yarns to the back or front and "pick" the color to use. I must be missing something.


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## pmarch

Other side


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## gottastch

Okay, I think I've got it now. I was having trouble trying to do the purl stitch continental style and getting bars across the knit stitches on the other side. I found a video by Liat Gat where she is working on a double knit heart. Continental girls, the video is called: Double Knitting - More Chart Practice (Rows 7 and 8) and shows it nicely:


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## Revan

Rachel, I am used to knitting a chart with a key. Is the darker portion the MC and the light color CC? You wrote it down, but it is hard to read from the computer, look at the chart, and knit.

When using highlighters, do you mean to highlight MC and another color for CC? This project is on the side burner, but love the look of double knitting, so thank you for teaching this class.


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## Pat lamb

Rachel, all I have to say is forget the wine bring on the MARGARITAS :thumbup: :thumbup: going to bed and tomorrow is another day. Pat


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## TeriRains

Going to try posting picture. Very addictive- but it's way past my bed time!!


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## Patsy Ruth

I did the cast on and first 6 rows this morning before work. I finished it after dinner tonight. Keeping even tension is very difficult. Hope this comes with practice.


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## prismaticr

Sorry all i was offline with the family...
I Will answer all question in the morning....

But the one i need to address in my sleep addle state is The first and last stitch....

Both yarns held together as one knit through two loops on needle (1mc and 1cc) hope that helps! see you in the morning......


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## texMich

Question, please: I finished the six rows (Yay me and it looks so neat - LOVE THIS!) and so now (with my MC facing) my MC loop (of each pair) is first on the needle with the CC loop next. But, since I need to knit the CC and purl the MC (for Row 7), should I move the loops around on the needle so that the CC loop is first with the MC next and then start knitting the CC and purling the MC or can I purl and knit as I come to each loop? Didn't know if it mattered which loop was first on the needle as long as I knit the CC and purl the MC for Row 7?


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## Suula

Starting piece completed, in the end once I made some mistakes and learned from them the light bulb moment happened and it flowed quite smoothly. I realise this is a small piece and will try the snowflake pot holder now and see how much has actually stuck!


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## Suula

Gayn said:


> I need a lightbulb moment. I've grasped the first 6 rows and just about the 7th. Then I'm getting totally confused from there on. Do the little icons on the chart mean the opposite colours to what I looking at on my needle and then the blanks the colours as they should be. Hope I'm making sense.


It will happen - at some point! The icons mean that the colour you are using ON THAT SIDE is the contrasting colour for that side. It does mean you need to be aware of what side you are knitting as the colours will swap according to this. I would have preferred the woman in the video to stop using her colour names and use the MC and CC, that way my light bulb would have switched on a little earlier, but she was helpful as seeing the stitches being worked helped

Ooh edit, I was also forgetting the first and last stitches were the double knitted ones and kept getting it wrong at the end until I figured that out!
:thumbup:


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## Suula

journey7 said:


> Ok, I have 6 rows completed. when I complete rows 7 & 8, they do not look like the pattern. I'm looking at Suula's finished test piece. Mine does not look like that. I'm going to try it again. talk to you late.


Remember to start with the pattern does not show properly, it takes a few rows to emerge, but I pulled mine out also after the first 2 rows and managed the second time around. xx


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## catlover1960

texMich said:


> Question, please: I finished the six rows (Yay me and it looks so neat - LOVE THIS!) and so now (with my MC facing) my MC loop (of each pair) is first on the needle with the CC loop next. But, since I need to knit the CC and purl the MC (for Row 7), should I move the loops around on the needle so that the CC loop is first with the MC next and then start knitting the CC and purling the MC or can I purl and knit as I come to each loop? Didn't know if it mattered which loop was first on the needle as long as I knit the CC and purl the MC for Row 7?


It does not matter which loop is first on you needles as long as you knit the loop with the correct color. I did not change the orientation of my loops, if MC was facing and it needed to be knit with CC then I just knit it with CC and purled the other loop with the MC. Hope that helps.


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## PatBrown

I got my sample done, though after doing so many lace shawls I had to keep reminding myself that the first and last stitches really don't follow the chart - you're just supposed to knit the two together. I think I'll just mark those columns out for the snowflake.

Just thought I'd mention it in case others had the same issue...

This is very helpful!

Thanks!
-Pat in MD


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## prismaticr

OH my.... All those questions that posted while I was sleeping... So first to those who answered, thanks~!!!!!

*Next here are few answers* in no particular order...

-DO NOT reorder loops on the needle in the middle of the project. When the cart now show a new color knitted, that is achieved by KNITTING the loop on the needle (wheat ever color it is) with the COLOR YOU WANT TO SHOW.... So in the chart, Row 7 is where the switching occurs.... You are creating an image INTO the work, thus you knit with the color to show up... I hope that helps that.

-Edge stitches, In the practice piece ARE the 1st and last block IN the chart, they are NOT extra stitches. You have a total of 10 pairs (20 loops) on your needles, the finished piece will look only 8 pairs (18loops) wide.

* This also applies to the snowflake pattern * Edge stitches ARE incorporated into the chart....

- Invisible cast on.... This will take LOTS and LOTS of practice.... I wish I could slow her down, but this one is really the best I had found. If I can ever get my own camera to stay still while I knit, and keep the family quiet enough to record... I will eventually pot my own videos... TRUST THAT it works....

-Kudos to the post on the continental video. 



Liat does show you in visual what I was trying to explain in words. Move BOTH YARNS together as one at ALL times and pick the correct yarn when knitting or purling

-Anyone feeling behind Never fear, that is why these workshops stay online after we are all done and get cleaned up of erroneous conversation..

If I missed any question please remind me I am on and off today and do want to make sure I get to everyone

Happy Dking!


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## clkay

finished... noticed an error after I had cast off ... 

when you cast off - 
do you cast off two stitches at a time?


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## prismaticr

clkay said:


> finished... noticed an error after I had cast off ...
> 
> when you cast off -
> do you cast off two stitches at a time?


YES for the practice piece, you cast off pairs of loops, similar to how you cast on....
For the snowflake, there is a more challenging cast on and bind off show, if you are up to it...

* to all.... I am noticing the bind off's a bit tight...*
with Double Knitting, it is easy to pull tight when doing the standard bind off, as it will pull the top of the piece to curve, try really hard to RELAX!!!!! Let the loops be LOOSER....


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## prismaticr

PatBrown said:


> Let me explain further - in many lace patterns the beginning and end edge stitches aren't charted. If there is a center or dividing stitch between panels they aren't charted either. The only stitches represented on the charts are those in the pattern.
> 
> The empty boxes on the ends of the charts here have a different meaning than the other empty boxes in the pattern.
> 
> Just a different language and methodology. Not a biggie. I just have to be careful when doing different projects.
> 
> Thanks!
> -Pat


Pat - I gotcha.... Usually there is a KEY explaing the chart... But as I put that together to specifically follow the video, i forgot the key... 
You are right in that Lace charts say that 1st and last are not charted... But almost all other charts have ALL stitches charted....

Will add a key...

Thanks


----------



## tintin63

prismaticr said:


> Pat - I gotcha.... Usually there is a KEY explaing the chart... But as I put that together to specifically follow the video, i forgot the key...
> You are right in that Lace charts say that 1st and last are not charted... But almost all other charts have ALL stitches charted....
> 
> Will add a key...
> 
> Thanks


Hi If you read the pattern it states 
"The chart does not include the edge stitches."
which is why we are casting on 37 pairs if stitches and not 35 (which are covered by the chart)


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## prismaticr

tintin63 said:


> Hi If you read the pattern it states
> "The chart does not include the edge stitches."
> which is why we are casting on 37 pairs if stitches and not 35 (which are covered by the chart)


Tintin - that is for the snowflake, right? Yes... and the instructions state that.... 
For the practice piece though, I forgot a key, and while it was covered in the video, I did not write it out and thus created confusion I didnt mean to...

THANK YOU for putting the clarification here... Hope all see this!


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## prismaticr

fruway said:


> I noticed the snowflake pattern calls for 100% wool. Is this what you used? Is that because the it's a pot holder and will be touching hots pots? If so I need to go out and but some.


Pattern does call for something that will not melt... BUT I did them with Cotton... AND as a pot holder for handles, I did use Acrylic... no problems in use...

OH and even did them as coasters... in acrylic.....

Please make smart choices for YOUR personal safety....


----------



## Designer1234

prismaticr said:


> Pattern does call for something that will not melt... BUT I did them with Cotton... AND as a pot holder for handles, I did use Acrylic... no problems in use...
> 
> OH and even did them as coasters... in acrylic.....
> 
> Please make smart choices for YOUR personal safety....


I have lots of cotton and I think I will do mine in cotton as I like the cotton for potholders. I used to knit two and then crochet both together - this is much better as the sides are not separate so it is two thickness all over and can't be separated. Why didn't I learn this years ago??? Good class Rachel.


----------



## prismaticr

Designer1234 said:


> I have lots of cotton and I think I will do mine in cotton as I like the cotton for potholders. I used to knit two and then crochet both together - this is much better as the sides are not separate so it is two thickness all over and can't be separated. Why didn't I learn this years ago??? Good class Rachel.


Shirley,
You and everyone else just didnt know how easy this really was.....


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## prismaticr

texMich said:


> Okay, please bear with me, but I slept last night and now I'm not getting it, or maybe I am. Ok - on Row 7, are you saying that no matter what order the loops are on my needle, as long as I knit a loop (of the pair) with the CC when I need to do so and purl the MC of the other loop (of the pair), then I'm okay? I thought I had to keep working and matching the loop colors but just changing the stitch from knit to purl or vice versa as needed. (I think the video is showing that I don't have to match the color of the loop, right?) Sorry - I just got confused. I thought it made sense last night.


YES! What you are doing is CHANGING the color that will show... IE creating the design!

Trust the process... after 2 rows (7 & 8) you should start to see the change....


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## prismaticr

INVIBLE CAST ON

Some of you are having a hard time with the invisible cast on... One of your fellow students found this video showing the cast on much slower and thus, hopefully, able to grasp the concept.






HOWEVER, be cautioned, the first part of the video is the cast on, the rest of the video is NOT how I suggest you to continue... specifically holding the yarns separate...

I want it noted, after a long time of Dking and many projects, holding the 2 yarns on ONE figure prevents accidental bars and fixes later on... yarns held like the video above are great for Faire Isle, but NOT Double Knitting.

Hope this helps.

(Still hope to make a video of my own one day...)


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## socksaholic

I'm to row 6 of the pattern, but I got so excited to see how my invisible cast on was turning out that I didn't get the 1st row in CC. Since this is my first and will be for me, I decided not to rip out and start all over. I do find the cast on Rachel just posted to be much simpler for me and I think it turned out pretty nice for a first try. I am an thrower and the video on the slip stitch edge that Rachel gave us earlier, is holding the yarn for stitches the way Rachel suggested and is how I am doing it and it works out great.


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## gottastch

I'm working away here...just about to start row 19 of the chart - woo hoo!!! I am using kitchen cotton (green and white) and am using a different edge. I cast-on with both colors, like in our sample, and then slip the first stitch of each row (knitwise) and purl the last stitch of every row...makes for a smoother edge. I'll post a photo soon.


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## islandgirl81

Wow you're right. I did the sample piece holding one yarn left hand and one right hand. The problem had was tension. My piece is ok but now with the snow flake I'm knitting with both yarns in one hand. It's working out so much better and tension is more even.


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## Suula

Ok,up to row 5 and taking a break as this is my first chart and DK at the same time. Add 2 dogs who like to randomly paw me for attention and it may take some time to finish....I have attached a few pictures to show where I am at.


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## prismaticr

Proud Teacher here..... 
kvelling over your achievements...
(Yiddish word means super super proud)

I am so glad you all are enjoying this as much as i do....
AND so glad you are all finally getting DE_MYstified....


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## Suula

prismaticr said:


> Proud Teacher here.....
> kvelling over your achievements...
> (Yiddish word means super super proud)
> 
> I am so glad you all are enjoying this as much as i do....
> AND so glad you are all finally getting DE_MYstified....


I have already said to my partner that I will make him a DK hat and asked him to chose 2 colours. I said he may get a motif on it and he suggested the Manchester United one....... I DON'T THINK SO! lol xx

I am thoroughly enjoying all the workshops I am taking part in and the great thing is that often some one else has asked the very question that you wanted to and the answer is there waiting for you.


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## gottastch

Whew - done! Once I got my head wrapped around it all, it wasn't so bad. My stitches were too sloppy so I went down to a size 3 needle and slipped the first double stitch of every row and purled the last double stitch of every row to give a flatter edge. Thank you prismaticr for being such a good teacher!!!


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## prismaticr

Suula - That is not a no, it is just a not now... If you can chart the picture you can DK it! So when I learned to knit, my first project was just knit and purl. I did about 4-5 rows, "got it" and ripped it all out.
Next project, learned DK. simple 10 rows... ripped that out.
Next thing I did was a in the round, DK with Intarisia!

Wanna see? I will post if you ask...

gottastch - You are amazing!!!!!! I will open a parade once a couple more are done....

Anyone "feeling behind" Do not worry, I will be here!!!


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## prismaticr

katkarma said:


> Well I'm glad to hear some are enjoying this workshop. I guess I've bit off more than I can chew at one time!!! I have mastered the original stitch....finally, although I still feel a little clumsy at it. I've also learned a new cast on, the invisible one! So that's good, but I am having a hard time understanding the charts in relation to double knitting. I'll keep plugging away, just pulled it all out for the fourth time....don't know how long I can be patient with myself!!!! I do love the finished product, though, so I'll keep that as my carrot to reach for!!!
> 
> Noreen


Noreene
Charts are simple, dont over read it... Each block is 1 pair of stitches... Try going over the info in the links i posted about charts... 
Your light bulb moment is righ on the tip of your tongue....


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## prismaticr

texMich said:


> Would it be possible to help us know what to do when we drop a stitch? I tried to find it, couldn't so then started ripping out, but wasn't sure where to stop and try to put the stitches back on the needle.


Dropped stitches in DK are near impossible to fix. Sorry...
I would honestly just put in a lifeline if you keep having that problem...

The reason it is near impossible is because the pairs are so hard to keep paired....

BUT you should notice it right away because one loop will be missing its pair! Also easy to see if you added something that should not be there....

Try putting in a stitch marker every 10 pairs (20 loops) then you will see right away any problems until you get the hang of things....


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## prismaticr

Starfishpurple said:


> Question...every other row is slightly bigger. Is this due to an inconsistancy in my tension between the knits and the purls?


If you can post a picture that might help but it does sound like a tension problem...

Keep both yarns on the SAME finger. Move them BOTH each time for knits and purls. REadjust your tension about every other pair...

You will get it, it takes practice and finding that comfortable way to hold things....


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## jnwynn

Here's my practice piece, I realized the mistakes and was going to un do them and decided no leave them in and see why I made them. It took me a bit to get the idea but I think I finally understand it. I had trouble even with using the markers that part just didn't connect. I think I understand it now.


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## Anita1955

Is there a "rule of thumb" for figuring yardage for DK? For example, if I want it knit a scarf DK, do I simply double the yardage of a single knit, or is there different formula?


----------



## Kajapi

socksaholic said:


> Maybe it's the late hour, but I keep getting lost in the chart and having to stop and count stitches and then tinking cause I made a mistake and then it dawned on me, they don't call me the stitch marker queen in my knitting group without good reason. I use stitch markers constantly, so why wasn't I using them for this, so.... I placed a line every 7 stitches of the chart and every 7 stitches of my knitting and we'll see if that helps. Now I just wish I had 5 different colored stitch markers and I could make the lines in those colors and make it even easier to follow  !


Good suggestion! I may try that if I ever get caught up. I'm still at row 6 of the sample piece - but at least I think I'm understanding it. I just haven't had the time to continue.


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## shirley m

have you seen this? DOUBLE KNIT FAIR ISLE SCARF by Tricksy Knitter
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/double-knit-fair-isle-scarf-pattern


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## prismaticr

Anita1955 said:


> Is there a "rule of thumb" for figuring yardage for DK? For example, if I want it knit a scarf DK, do I simply double the yardage of a single knit, or is there different formula?


General rule is, yes, double the amount of yardage because you are knitting a 2 sided piece... BUT not actually doubled.

If both sides are different colors, then you would not need to really double because one side would be color a and the other B... with design added in piece, then you need more because design on both sides...

Hope that helps.

And if you have more yarn than you need... THAT IS STASH! and stash building is ALWAYS good......


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## prismaticr

socksaholic said:


> Wow, that is gorgeous! Maybe some day!?!? :roll:


THIS chart is actually REALLY EASY as DK... as it is shown...

Believe me you ARE doing this now!!!!!!!

Anyone who wants to try this, just let me know and I can really help you out.

Faire Isle by itself has floats and 2 yarns.. DK has 2 yarns and NO FLOATS!!!!


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## prismaticr

Saroj said:


> I keep making mistake in the first 2 Sts on the chart. I think I got it now after ripping twice. Hopefully third time the count will be right.


I LOVE YOU AVITAR>....
Now as for the problem.. is this on the practice piece or the snowflake? 
Either way, if the first 2 stitches are the issue, then just add them to the chart, ie 1 more block on each side, or if it the "neat" edge issue, just go back to the knit 2 loops together and make the twisted edge....


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## prismaticr

jmai5421 said:


> I think I got it!!! Still working on the sample.
> I won't tell you how many times I started over while watching the second video to figure out the charting. I can easily read color work charting, why couldn't I figure this one. I think that I am on my way. Yeh!!


You are seriously the workshop "energizer bunny".
Never give up!!!!


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## prismaticr

OK, on the topic of dropped stitches and mistakes (not that I endorse mistakes....)

Here is a video by Liat Gat, on how to, breath.... pull out your needles in DK and pick up the correct loops in order to continue....


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## prismaticr

tintin63 said:


> Hi Rachael, Sorry to say I may not be around for a few days so will not be able to continue with this till I get back. Thanks for the help and encouragement. Tintin


Hey no problem... I will be here.... I check in during a workshop everyday, but afterwards, about once or twice a week... you can always PM me if you run into a problem...


----------



## Lovehandles

I finally finished my sample. That was a lot of fun and a lot of frogging.
Here's what I learned: Don't watch TV while learning this technique. Remember that the video is a very patient media, (I watched it at least 10 times). Finally, when the light clicked on, I realized that "she" was talking about the "fabric" I was creating was the contrasting "fabric" and once you get your loops straight on the needle, don't pay attention to the color, just your fabric.
I've never signed up for a class before, didn't know what to expect and am just loving the challenge. Good exercise for the mind, right? Thank you so much and now for the potholder.


----------



## gottastch

socksaholic said:


> I'm thinking 2 pieces with 1 pattern repeat then plain fabric on each and then kitchener stitch or 3 needle bind off them together. Is that doable or easy on DK fabric. I think it would be prettiest if both of the patterns are going the same direction when they are worn, instead of a long strip with one of the pattern repeats upside down.


I was thinking of doing the scarf pattern, as shown (the one from Ravelry, that is), then doing a few repeats of what I call the X's and O's part of the pattern and then just turn the pattern upside down and work it from top to bottom so both ends of the scarf will show the pattern "right side up" when being worn. It would be the same thing making the snowflake into a scarf but there is no top or bottom to it...both are the same so just keep making more and more snowflakes until the scarf if as long as needed/wanted. Something else to mull around in the gray matter of my brain


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## prismaticr

In the SOTA said:


> Rachael, That exercise of setting up the chart with the colors I will be using for that particular row was really good. Do you personally make your own blank grid when you are using markers so that you aren't marking on top of shaded blocks from a photo copy?


When i am working a charted pattern that someone else wrote, my tech leaks out... and I digitally "highlight" it. See Adobe lets you highlight any text on a page... so i do. This way, i can modify things as I go, I am a digital person and so I can have my pattern on my tablet or phone with me always... and then I can share it with others on the go etc...

For actual paper patterns, honestly I havent printed anything in so long I am not really sure what I would do...


----------



## prismaticr

Lovehandles said:


> I finally finished my sample. That was a lot of fun and a lot of frogging.
> Here's what I learned: Don't watch TV while learning this technique. Remember that the video is a very patient media, (I watched it at least 10 times). Finally, when the light clicked on, I realized that "she" was talking about the "fabric" I was creating was the contrasting "fabric" and once you get your loops straight on the needle, don't pay attention to the color, just your fabric.
> I've never signed up for a class before, didn't know what to expect and am just loving the challenge. Good exercise for the mind, right? Thank you so much and now for the potholder.


AWESOME.. and good advice!


----------



## prismaticr

socksaholic said:


> I'm thinking 2 pieces with 1 pattern repeat then plain fabric on each and then kitchener stitch or 3 needle bind off them together. Is that doable or easy on DK fabric. I think it would be prettiest if both of the patterns are going the same direction when they are worn, instead of a long strip with one of the pattern repeats upside down.


SO if i read this right, you are thinking more along a solid color backside and design on front?

YEs Doable... BUT this falls into Extreme Double Knitting.

Now lets talk Extreme.... anything Dk'ed where one side IS NOT the mirror negative of the other counts as extreme...

SO to do this, you really need to fully understand DK... if you think you are there, then Google Alisidar Post Quinn.
www.double-knitting.com

Watch a few of these videos... 
http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL5BDDFABA25B30E20

AND THEN, if your brain can process that you CAN have one side totally different than the other, GO FOR IT!!!!!!!!

I am honestly, just venturing into that whole process. I needed to be comfortable with all the basics and be able to teach it (proof of my own understanding) to be able to move to the next level...

AND THEN I can still blow your mind as you can knit 2 socks at once, where one is INSIDE the other... (Video link shared to me by 1 of the students here as her goal to work toward)....

Ready?
KNIT!


----------



## socksaholic

prismaticr said:


> SO if i read this right, you are thinking more along a solid color backside and design on front?


No, I guess I didn't explain myself very well. I was talking about doing the pattern part 2 sided, for example in red and white, and after I finish one pattern repeat, changing to solid color fabric on each side to match the background color of that side, so it would end up solid red or solid white after the pattern repeat. I would make 2 of these and then kitchener stitch or three needle bind off the 2 together to make one scarf. This way the pattern repeat would be right side up on both ends of the scarf.


----------



## Maryhm

Finally got the invisible cast-on after many tries but the second link finally worked for me. I am using Lily Sugar and Cream cotton and my pot holder is huge (about 14" wide). Is it the yarn or me?


----------



## Maryhm

Monetta55 said:


> Maryhm, I am using the same cotton and mine is big too. I can't speak for you but I think my tension is very loose due to the fact that I am having trouble holding the yarn in my hand. I think the cotton might have a little to do with it because it is stiff and might not contract much.


Having trouble with tension too! I'm dropping down to a size 5 needle but don't think that will make much of a difference.


----------



## prismaticr

Monetta55 said:


> Maryhm, I am using the same cotton and mine is big too. I can't speak for you but I think my tension is very loose due to the fact that I am having trouble holding the yarn in my hand. I think the cotton might have a little to do with it because it is stiff and might not contract much.


Cotton yarn does not stretch out shrink that much. Going down in needle size should help. But only being you down to about 10-12", such is more about the Size. .. also tension comrs into play. So it is a practice thing here. ..


----------



## prismaticr

In the SOTA said:


> Hi Rachel (my tech teacher?)
> Would you please be willing to show our practice chart with as an example gold and white yarns being used. I need to understand visually what you are saying in the beginning of this course about the "crucially important" color set up stage of working with a chart.
> The snowflake pattern is complex. I usually need to use a physical print out of charts, and like you say, electronic highlighting would be easier. I just need to see how an "odd numbered" row looks and an "even numbered" row looks in highlighted colors so that I don't go off the track. That's why I signed up for this course because it has been so daunting to do DK in complex designs, or at least guide me to a website that illustrates what you are saying. Thanks so much.


Gold and white might be a bit hard to see Let me put it together and see, if it helps. Might do red and blue to make sure you all see it. .. be back


----------



## Gayn

Yay. I finally had the lightbulb moment. Here's my practice piece. Now to start on the snowflake pattern.


----------



## Judylovesoscar

I'm in. I forgot to post, but have completed my learning sample and hopefully will have time to progress onto the Hot Pad. Thanks for taking the stress out of the process. It is indeed easier than you think if you concentrate and I have learnt to follow a graph as well.


----------



## jmai5421

I finally got it. There is still a mistake that was a whole row and I did not tink back again to fix it. I have done lots of frogging, starting over and tinking with the sample. It finally came to me so I just finished without correcting the row.
Here is my sample. I will start tomorrow learning the invisible cast on so I can do the snowflake. I am glad I read about using cotton yarn and maybe wool from other posts


----------



## Maryhm

prismaticr said:


> SO if i read this right, you are thinking more along a solid color backside and design on front?
> 
> YEs Doable... BUT this falls into Extreme Double Knitting.
> 
> Now lets talk Extreme.... anything Dk'ed where one side IS NOT the mirror negative of the other counts as extreme...
> 
> SO to do this, you really need to fully understand DK... if you think you are there, then Google Alisidar Post Quinn.
> www.double-knitting.com
> 
> Watch a few of these videos...
> http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL5BDDFABA25B30E20
> 
> AND THEN, if your brain can process that you CAN have one side totally different than the other, GO FOR IT!!!!!!!!
> 
> I am honestly, just venturing into that whole process. I needed to be comfortable with all the basics and be able to teach it (proof of my own understanding) to be able to move to the next level...
> 
> AND THEN I can still blow your mind as you can knit 2 socks at once, where one is INSIDE the other... (Video link shared to me by 1 of the students here as her goal to work toward)....
> 
> Ready?
> KNIT!


I tried DK socks and I think it is much more difficult because you can't cross or twist the yarn. I was doing fine until I realized my socks were joined in several places. It's not easy keeping the yarn separate.


----------



## prismaticr

OK, By request.... and only because a few of you still have not had your light bulb moment.....

Here are the practice charts colored.
Think MC = Red and CC= Blue.. (sorry gold and white was not showing up...)
1st chart show as if you were knitting it... read MC from Right to Left and CC from left to right....

2nd and 3rd pictures are how EACH side would look finished....

NOW, i do hope you get it.. but if not tell me and I will try and find another way of explaining it... short of flying to where you are and holding your hand....... which I would TOTALLY.... cuz you are all so awesome and I cant wait to retire and travel all over the world to meet you all in person!


----------



## In the SOTA

Rachel,
Thank you for your work as an instructor. This colored illustration of your chart planning is completely light and bright, maybe just like the light bulb I needed!!!! Perhaps I would say a Christmas Light Bulb (Ho, Ho, Ho!)
Linda in Alaska


----------



## texMich

Ok, just figured this out, posting a pic, I think, I hope. Thanks to my DH!


----------



## texMich

Just finished the invisible cast on and foundation row. With 37 pairs of stitches I had to move it all to longer needles. Hope I'm doing this right as it seems like it's going to be pretty large, but I am using size 7 needles instead of size 6. (My size 6 are involved in another project.) Couldn't find my size 5 needles, so I'll see how this goes and the next one I'll try and do with size 5. I pulled out some Lily Sugar 'n Cream yarn, Jute and Dark Pine colors, which is fairly large (4) yarn. Maybe I'll use some DK or sock yarn for my next one on smaller needles. What size and type of yarn is everyone else using?


----------



## Suula

I am now at half way. I looked at what I had done previously and realised I had not looked at the instructions for the pot holder properly and was not knitting the MC and CC properly on the opposite side!

I ripped it out and then read about doing a chart in colour, so I have done that and it is mush easier to keep it right now with one less thing to think about!

I also did the neater sides from the word go and not after a couple of rows, so all in all much happier. It still takes a lot of concentration though, still got the same distractions, but hoping to get it completed today  

I am using Rowan Pure new wool Aran (worsted) weight and size 4 mm (6 US) size needles. The fact it is pure wool is just luck as that was what I had available, but at least I know it won't burn when something hot is put on it! Though if anyone spills something on it heaven help them!!!!!


----------



## prismaticr

Revan said:


> Thank you Rachel for the color chart. I have a question. Is there a difference in illusion knitting from double knitting?
> Revan


Oh my yes... Illusion knitting is achieved by garter stitch in the right rows... and DK is a double thick fabric with Stockinet on both sides....

I can show you links for Illusion knit so you see the difference.... but is is distinct difference in the working of it and the outcome....


----------



## jadancey

Here are my samples, the pink and blue was the first one and I had a terrible time with it. I knew what I was suppose to do, but kept getting my sides mixed up. I must have pulled it out 4 or 5 times. I finally found a small ball of white and used that with bright pink for the second one. So much easier, I think I only had to pull out a couple of stitches. Will be starting the snowflake pattern after work tonight.


----------



## gottastch

Suula said:


> I am now at half way. I looked at what I had done previously and realised I had not looked at the instructions for the pot holder properly and was not knitting the MC and CC properly on the opposite side!
> 
> I ripped it out and then read about doing a chart in colour, so I have done that and it is mush easier to keep it right now with one less thing to think about!
> 
> I also did the neater sides from the word go and not after a couple of rows, so all in all much happier. It still takes a lot of concentration though, still got the same distractions, but hoping to get it completed today
> 
> I am using Rowan Pure new wool Aran (worsted) weight and size 4 mm (6 US) size needles. The fact it is pure wool is just luck as that was what I had available, but at least I know it won't burn when something hot is put on it! Though if anyone spills something on it heaven help them!!!!!


Beautiful job, Suula! I like your color choices. Looks like you went down a few needle sizes too  I still can't figure out the invisible cast-on and side edges. I will get there - someday


----------



## Suula

Thanks Gottastch, I have found this challenging, but a lot of fun and managed to complete the pot holder today, well still got the little hoop to make, but want to post the photos now as OH wants to watch a film. I have spotted one 'design element' and that was because of 2 boxes on my chart I had miscoloured. There are no doubt others and the cast on and cast off were a learning process for me also. Anyway, posting the pictures then movie watching


----------



## islandgirl81

Thank you Suula so much. My husband actually understood better than me but once he showed me I got it. Your kitty is beautiful. Thanks again.   
Oops....there is a mistake but that's ok. Also I want to redo the binding off. Don't like the looks of it.


----------



## Suula

islandgirl81 said:


> Suula I just realized the previous pictures were yours. Your edges are very nice. I tried over and over again and for some reason when I did the seamless edges I couldn't get the chart. So decided I needed to just get the chart down first. It's funny how my brain works sometimes.


The chart did not have the edges in it, which was something I kept forgetting! But the chart has to be the most important thing in order to complete the workshop. Casting on, the edges and binding off can always be perfected when the technique you are learning is fixed solidly in your brain. We all work differently and I am always amazed at this and how you say something and the person you are talking to approaches it from a different direction and makes you think wow! Xx


----------



## Rusty's Mom

Hi Rachael,
I can't get what the chart means. I think I could follow this if what I do in the chart was written out in words. I tried, but I just can't make sense of the chart. I wondered if you could put into words what the chart says. I promise that I will give chart reading another try. I think that I can follow this as I did something similiar in high school.


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## linda6200

I've finished my practice piece. The edges are terribly messy, but I did learn how to do this technique -- fun!


----------



## islandgirl81

Suula said:


> The chart did not have the edges in it, which was something I kept forgetting! But the chart has to be the most important thing in order to complete the workshop. Casting on, the edges and binding off can always be perfected when the technique you are learning is fixed solidly in your brain. We all work differently and I am always amazed at this and how you say something and the person you are talking to approaches it from a different direction and makes you think wow! Xx


You're right the chart is the most important. I use to knit by charts years ago but for some reason I couldn't grasp this chart. Watching the video for the second time worked for me. I was able to do the invisible seams but couldn't get the contrasting color edge down. I enjoyed this so much I'm starting another with the invisible edge. What a great class. Thanks for your help Suula.


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## prismaticr

Suula and island girl... You two made me laugh. . I just love how you helped each other and how tHis project neither you two to three same place. .. your work is Wonderful! !!!!!!!!

Rusty's mom. You are not alone in the trouble. So add it is late here I will work on the chart in words tomorrow. . Might take me a bit with all my weekend chires too but keep am eye out I will get it Done. ... 

That said, please see if you can take a moment to read through the chart reading info I posted and if anything stands out that is Confusing let me know as that will be a point to fix in my explain. ...

So parade tomorrow, chart in words. . And how about some more suggestions for dk AND a few ideas that will just blow your minds. ....

Night all!


----------



## Suula

Rusty's Mom said:


> Hi Rachael,
> I can't get what the chart means. I think I could follow this if what I do in the chart was written out in words. I tried, but I just can't make sense of the chart. I wondered if you could put into words what the chart says. I promise that I will give chart reading another try. I think that I can follow this as I did something similiar in high school.


Would it help maybe to put the colour chart on with exactly what you knit on both the even and odd rows? That helped me immensely and though I tried to chose colours that matched my wool, I labelled them MC and CC and the colours can be changed (simple excel spread sheet). I think Prismaticr has done one, so If she agreed her chart would be best though I am happy to share mine if needed, even for a comparison!


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## mammaw10

My granddaughter helped me convert pattern using excel, and colored squares with the colored yarn i would use to knit for that square. the helpful thing is even if I forget what direction I'm knitting from it doesn't matter. I am attaching picture to show what I mean.


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## Designer1234

Suula said:


> Thanks Gottastch, I have found this challenging, but a lot of fun and managed to complete the pot holder today, well still got the little hoop to make, but want to post the photos now as OH wants to watch a film. I have spotted one 'design element' and that was because of 2 boxes on my chart I had miscoloured. There are no doubt others and the cast on and cast off were a learning process for me also. Anyway, posting the pictures then movie watching


It is lovely -- great job. I have had to slow down with mine. I have made a pot holder using the technique and now hope to get going with the color variations. I at least know where to find the teacher if I can't finish it in the class - grin :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:


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## Suula

mammaw10 said:


> My granddaughter helped me convert pattern using excel, and colored squares with the colored yarn i would use to knit for that square. the helpful thing is even if I forget what direction I'm knitting from it doesn't matter. I am attaching picture to show what I mean.


I did the same, but instead of numbering the stitches I put numbers in the boxes if they were over 2 one after the other, I will upload mine also and I out the numbers in the direction that the row ran, so you can follow the direction (though that is more for practice for me in reading a chart as they are the same in each direction). I also used the chart on the computer so I could select the row and therefore it was 'highlighted' and when it was a complicated run of numbers I put the cursor over where I was but did not click it and remove my highlighting



If you need it in a different version of excel let me know.


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## prismaticr

Ok, First here is the first 10 rows of the sample chart in words.... I am hoping that with this you can translate the rest, but if not you all let me know and I will see about writing the rest out...

Sample chart in words.
K-Knit
P-Purl
MC-Main Color
CC-Contrast Color
Row 1  Knit MC, Purl CC across
Row 2  Knit CC, Purl MC across
Row 3 & 5 Repeat Row 1
Row 4 & 6 Repeat Row 2
Row 7  K MC, P CC, K CC, P MC for 8 stitches, KMC, P CC
Row 8 - P MC, K CC, P CC, K MC for 8 stitches, P MC, K CC
Row 9- K MC, P CC, K CC, P MC, K MC, P CC, K CC, P MC for 4 stitches, K MC, P CC, K CC, P MC, K MC, P CC 
Row 10-P MC, K CC, P CC, K MC, P MC, K CC, P CC,KP MC for 4 stitches, P MC, K CC, P CC, K MC, P MC, K CC

NEXT - changing the chart to YOUR personal colors IS exactly right! That is how I do it always.....

And last for now... some of you really are struggling with the complexity of the snowflake.. SO here is a simpler image to work with. See if your light bulbs go on now!

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/reversible-double-knitting-teapot-holder

Goodies still to come!


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## islandgirl81

The way I did the chart was on all odd rows, reading from right to left, if the color on the chart showed dark, I used my dark yarn first (the knit stitch). If the color box was white, I used the light color fist. On all even rows, reading from left to right, if there is a dark box, I used the light color first. If there is a light box, I used the dark color first. This worked for me. But I absolutely could not watch TV. I also put numbers at the bottom of the chart so I could see what stitch was next in case I had to walk away before I could write down where I was. The white line down the center of the chart helped too, i have stitch 19 as the center.I used a sticky note above the row I was working on and wrote the number on the note so I knew what row I was on in case the sticky note moved. I'm sure there's easier ways to do this but it worked for me. Hope this helps.


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## prismaticr

I think you are all mostly getting the whole chart thing, save for a few of you....

SO some of you have PMed me your solutions, and I think it time to share them here.....

POst away....

Now Rusty's Mom.... did my word explanation make sense????
Are we on the right track???? If so I can write out a simple set of instruction and see if that helps....

Let me know.
Also I am going to try and post my person pdf of the snowflake pattern marked up. Maybe it will help someone....


----------



## jmai5421

prismaticr said:


> Ok, First here is the first 10 rows of the sample chart in words.... I am hoping that with this you can translate the rest, but if not you all let me know and I will see about writing the rest out...
> 
> Sample chart in words.
> K-Knit
> P-Purl
> MC-Main Color
> CC-Contrast Color
> Row 1  Knit MC, Purl CC across
> Row 2  Knit CC, Purl MC across
> Row 3 & 5 Repeat Row 1
> Row 4 & 6 Repeat Row 2
> Row 7  K MC, P CC, K CC, P MC for 8 stitches, KMC, P CC
> Row 8 - P MC, K CC, P CC, K MC for 8 stitches, P MC, K CC
> Row 9- K MC, P CC, K CC, P MC, K MC, P CC, K CC, P MC for 4 stitches, K MC, P CC, K CC, P MC, K MC, P CC
> Row 10-P MC, K CC, P CC, K MC, P MC, K CC, P CC,KP MC for 4 stitches, P MC, K CC, P CC, K MC, P MC, K CC
> 
> NEXT - changing the chart to YOUR personal colors IS exactly right! That is how I do it always.....
> 
> And last for now... some of you really are struggling with the complexity of the snowflake.. SO here is a simpler image to work with. See if your light bulbs go on now!
> 
> http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/reversible-double-knitting-teapot-holder
> 
> Goodies still to come!


Thanks for the new chart. I have just started the snowflake. I haven't learned the invisible cast on yet so am just practicing the snowflake. It is out of wool so will be for me. I really like this teapot. I will have to do it next. So much to do. I am in the middle of canning beets right now. I got some really nice ones from Farmers Market this morning. Just waiting for pressure cooker get up to 10#.
Thanks for this workshop.
I was also looking at some Scandinavian knitting motifs that would work for double knitting pot holders.


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## Revan

I am going to try and post my sample.


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## Revan

One more...


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## shewolf389

I have finally finished the snowflake. It's 1 am so I will post pictures tomorrow morning. Are we doing pockets as well Rachel? At the beginning of the workshop there were some sutle hints about tackling them, just curious, trying to plan knitting time, lol. Good night all and thank you Rachel for a wonderful first time learning experience, I enjoyed it all, even the trying times.


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## Maryhm

jadancey said:


> OK, I missed reading a couple of pages, but when I did read them, see that others are finding that the cotton yarn knits up big. So it's not just me, am going to try different yarn.


I'm using Sugar and Cream but dropped down to a size 3 needle and it's working pretty well.


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## Designer1234

*The Parade of Double knitting projects with prismaticr is now open*! please go to the following link and post your pictures of all you have done including your practice motifs.

*http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-191716-1.html#3769651*

We ask that you do it yourselves as that way your name is with your work!

congratulations. Put them in right away!!


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## catlover1960

When I read my charts, I read row 1 from right to left and then row 2 from left to right. The practice piece and the snowflake pattern are symmetrical so it doesn't make much difference on those patterns. You are correct on row 1 you will knit the MC and purl the CC. Row 2 you will knit the CC and purl the MC.


----------



## prismaticr

texMich said:


> Hi, everyone! Thank you ladies for the charts and all your diligent work for us. I appreciate it so much, but I do have one question when looking at the charts. Row 1 I'm supposed to knit the MC and purl the CC, correct? So then on Row 2, I'll be going from right to left on the chart and so wouldn't I be knitting the CC and purling the MC all the way across? Just want to make sure.


I think catlover fixed your thinking. .. row 1 read from right to left, But row 2 reads from LEFT to RIGHT. ... so you are correct in that you will knit cc but make sure you are reading the chart from the correct side. ..


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## prismaticr

Supreya said:


> One lightbulb moment....If I dont move both strands of yarn together, i get bars across my work....The teapot pattern is working for me....Thankyou so much.


Yes. .. I did say that was very important with dk... the two yarns must always move together. ... I think someone had that problem back in the beginning so I repeat that very important more here again. ..

Two yarns must always move as one! !!


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## prismaticr

Designer1234 said:


> Rachel is unable to join us today and I will be opening the Parade in the next few minutes. Once I announce the thread - please post your pictures there. be right back.
> 
> If you have any questions she will get back as soon as possible. Something important has come up so just carry on!


Thanks Shirley for helping me out today. ..
I will just say this, and every Mom will understand. .
Two weeks ago I needed the preverbial bubble for my younger son, yesterday his older brother was set to join him. ... today they are both out and ok. .. but I swear the next toe out of line in the "let's scare mom" category, back in the bubble mister!

And the DiL and girlfriend can join them. At least I would get some sleep!

And on that note, night all. .. answers tomorrow and the afore mentioned goodies. ....


----------



## linda6200

shirley m said:


> have you seen this? DOUBLE KNIT FAIR ISLE SCARF by Tricksy Knitter
> http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/double-knit-fair-isle-scarf-pattern


I don't think I'm quite up for that yet! But it's beautiful!


----------



## kaixixang

I'm not too fond of Fair-Aisle...but I don't quite think that Double Knitting is entirely in the Fair-Aisle category.

I have now completed the first sample and started the next one...all are in Acrylic (but two different weights).


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## prismaticr

Those of you running away creaming from the Faire Isle DK pattern posted by your fellow students... I ask WHY????

This is no more complicated than the snowflake pattern i gave, it just has more repeats!

Now to some of you posting finished projects... I have noticed that you are showing work with Purl bumps to the outside...

I am not quite sure how you did that... ALL work on both sides of DK, should show Stockinette stitch... So I am thinking you somehow started on the wrong side? or cast on something not right....


----------



## prismaticr

OK.. Some of those promised goodies.....

For reference, I am not by any means, an expert in Double Knitting. BUT I use it often enough and teach it comfortably face to face. That said, before this workshop even started, a future student shared some info on a Dk skill with me I had never seen before. So now I am sharing that while I have given you the basics of Double Knit, the usefulness of this technique has many other applications.

FOR EXAMPLE: 
Did you know you can knit a tube on straight needles? 
To make a pocket or tube..* With cast-on method of choice, CO 22sts. Row 1: *K1, sl1 wyib; rep from * *
Create pockets in any knitted garment, while you are knitting that piece right then and there?

Knit 2 socks at a time, one INSDIE the other? For that matter, knit 2 sleeves for a sweater, at the same time, on the same needles and never have to worry about counting and matching again?
Never have the half-finished problem or missing sock syndrome!
http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEfall06/FEATextreme2in1.html

AND, this technique can be simply modified to add that pocket right into the work as you go, just add the other end of the ball of yarn and double your stitches to "pocket" then you go back to regular knitting... {Ok, this might be bit harder to wrap your head around, it was for me and I have only done it once. But if you are adventurous to try it, post it about it!}

Oh and lets not forget Extreme Double Knitting like that of Alasdair Post-Quinn - http://www.double-knitting.com

So whats next for your double knitting??? (A whole bottle of wine? And that super-sized chocolate at the ready.)

A few other easy to do, Double knitting projects 
Just do a search on http://www.ravelry.com There are many!
http://www.sg-creations.org/category/double-knitting/
http://www.knittinghelp.com/video/play/double-knitting
http://knitty.com/ISSUEspring06/PATTexchequered.html

Now, some of you are going to try the Tricky knitter Faire Isle project posted a while back.... GO FOR IT!!!!!

Faire Isle and DK work wonderfully together AND YOU CAN USE MORE THAN 2 COLORS!!!!!!! 
watch this video for some helpful inspiration... 




SO Practically ANYTHING can be Double Knit!

* IF you can THINK it, YOU CAN KNIT IT!*


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## Suula

Will take some time to look at these properly, but the link for the extreme double knitting did not work for me. I did a search and found this link which looks the same to me..... will see if it works when I post it. xx

http://www.double-knitting.com/

I found this pattern which is free on Ravelry and is a scarf one. It was the first one he created for his sister apparently and is included in his book as a starter pattern xx

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/corvus-2


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## prismaticr

jmai5421 said:


> My snowflake is going pretty slow, one row at a time and sometimes tinking because I lost track of the count and skipped a stitch. However I am making progress. I definitely want to do this. After several potholders I AM going to do the scarf.
> Thanks Rachel for this workshop and all the work you have put into it.


You are the rock star of the workshops.
Tinking is a part of knitting... as a note, if you are having a lot of problems.. put in a life line and make it go around both sides.. this way if all else fails you have a safe point to return to.


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## gottastch

I started the scarf pattern (from Ravelry). I finally got the hang of the invisible cast-on...from the second video - works great...love it!!! I added one stitch on each end and did it in the contrasting color so with the new row formed from the invisible cast-on, it makes a one stitch frame around. It will take me forever to finish, because of the "power baby knitting" (dear niece is having a baby at the beginning of October) I'm doing right now but it is something I will definitely come back to. Thanks again, Rachel!!!!


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## prismaticr

In the world of kinda extreme Double Knitting....

Take a look at this one...
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/mans-double-knit-scarf-dk136

Pattern written ALL IN WORDS... NO CHART!

Read carefully!


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## kaixixang

Since I'm the guilty party who researched and provided the link to Prismaticr:

http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEfall06/FEATextreme2in1.html

I have not removed the original authors information but this is a smaller of the two PDF versions I can generate. She is interested in presenting this...so I am providing my archive and research for ONLY the item I mentioned.


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## NJQuiet1

I had a deadline for a baby blanket I'd been making and have just now gotten to join in. After frogging once for not following the directions properly and once for too many "design elements" i finally got it done and I'm so excited! Thanks for this workshop...I'm looking forward to getting onto the snowflake pattern now!


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## clkay

I am glad I tried this; always wanted to try double knitting; the tension isn't the greatest because I was always dropping the two yarns and throwing one over to knit or purl; didn't get the hang of it. I intended to try a double knit afghan but now think that is too ambitious.

prismatic
thanks for the workshop; really appreciate your efforts!


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## prismaticr

Supreya said:


> prismaticr said:
> 
> 
> 
> Those of you running away creaming from the Faire Isle DK pattern posted by your fellow students... I ask WHY????
> 
> This is no more complicated than the snowflake pattern i gave, it just has more repeats!I
> 
> I cannot follow an image that is as fussy and complex as the snowflake, nor can i figure the patterns. Thanks for your help. I will put this aside for now and come back to it later when I have I written it out so I can follow it .
> You all do such beautiful work
> 
> 
> 
> You did a wonderful job.... Did you see the pattern I posted that WAS all words... no chart at all???
> 
> And on the chart note, I did write out the first 10 rows of the practice piece to help you all get started.... Did that help?
> 
> Let me know if you want something easier to read through...
Click to expand...


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## In the SOTA

This was on page 2 of this course, thanks to you!!!!


----------



## In the SOTA

Rusty's Mom,
Oh certainly and this link was just a visual of the idea. Words would be such as this:
Cast on for double knitting 12, (total of 24 stitches alternating colors).
Row 1, knit main color (purl contrast color) for each double knit stitch. Turn.
Row 2, knit contrast color (purl main color) for each double knit stitch.
Repeat row 1 and 2 six times. This makes a plain main color front side and plain contrast color on the back side.
(1) Next row would include the beginning of the small square design in the middle of the row such as this:
Knit 4 double knit (each main color knitted, contrast color purled), then knit 4 double knit (each contrast color knitted, main color purled), and then Knit 4 double knit (each main color knitted, contrast color purled). Turn.
(2) Next row would be this:
Knit 4 double knit (each contrast color knitted, main color purled). Knit 4 double knit (each main color knitted, contrast color purled).
Knit 4 double knit (each contrast color knitted, main color purled). Turn.
Repeat these two rows three times. 
After that is done, you will have on one side the square showing a contrasting color. And on the other side of the fabric you will have a square showing the main color. That's all. It is really good to practice on small stuff, making sure not to twist stitches, etc.
Good luck. Have fun. That's the main idea.


----------



## prismaticr

tintin63 said:


> Hi Rachael, I'm travelling home later today so should be back to my knitting soon. I don't really have a use for potholders but love the snowflake design so I'm thinking of possibly saving that for a scarf. But while away my son has asked me for a 'skull' cap . I've found a chart for the skull and I am sizing up an ear flap hat pattern (knitted double) to accommodate my son's head.
> 
> Wish me Luck :-D
> 
> Tina


You will be fine... let me know if you need help....

AND if you are starting top down or bottom up.... I have links to increases and decreases for DK in the round, which you will need...

DO NOT PANIC, it is easy... trust me


----------



## prismaticr

OK - To those having trouble reading the charts, Here is the practice chart in words.... (Also attached as a pdf to download and highlight as needed)
I start out writing out ever step in full words, but I slowly transition you to abbreviations.
K=Knit, P=Purl, MC=Main Color, CC=Contrast Color
I hope this helps you all.
*Pattern*
Cast on for double knitting 10, (total of 20 stitches alternating colors).

Row 1, knit main color (purl contrast color) for each double knit pair. Turn.
Row 2, knit contrast color (purl main color) for each double knit pair.
Repeat row 1 and 2 four more times. This makes a plain main color front side and plain contrast color on the back side. Total of 6 rows completed.

Next row would include the beginning of the design:
Row 7, knit main color (purl contrast color) for the first double knit pair. Then knit contrast color (purl main color) for 8 pairs, knit main color (purl contrast color) for the last double knit pair. Turn.
Row 8, knit contrast color (purl main color) for the first double knit pair. Then knit main color (purl contrast color) for 8 pairs, knit contrast color (purl main color) for the last double knit pair. Turn.

_Next rows have numbers between bars {|#|} to indicate the pair of stitches knitted in the order you reach them. 
To correspond to the chart, ODD rows are read RIGHT to LEFT, and EVEN rows LEFT to RIGHT. _

Row 9, |1|knit main color {MC} (purl contrast color{CC}) for the first double knit pair, |2|knit contrast color{CC} (purl main color{MC}), |3|Knit Main Color {MC} (Purl contrast color {CC}, |4-7|Knit CC (Purl MC) 4 times, |8|K MC (P CC), |9| K CC(P MC),|10| K MC (P CC)

Row 10, |1|Knit Contrast Color (Purl MC), |2|knit main color {MC} (purl contrast color{CC}), |3-4|Knit Contrast Color (Purl Main Color), |5-6|knit main color {MC} (purl contrast color{CC}), |7-8|K CC (P MC), |9|K MC (P CC), |10|K CC (P MC)

Row 11, |1|knit main color {MC} (P CC), |2|K CC(P MC), |3-4|knit main color {MC} (P CC), |5-6|K CC (P MC), |7-8|K MC (P CC), |9|K MC (P CC), |10|K MC (P CC)

Row 12, |1| Knit Contrast Color (Purl MC), |2|knit main color {MC} (P CC), |3|K CC(P MC), |4-7|knit main color {MC} (P CC), |8|K CC (P MC), |9|K MC (P CC), |10|K CC (P MC)

Row 13, |1|knit main color {MC} (P CC), |2|K CC(P MC), |3|knit main color {MC} (P CC), |4-7|K CC (P MC), |8|K MC (P CC), |9|K MC (P CC), |10|K MC (P CC)

Row 14 [repeat row 12]
Row 15 [repeat row 11]
Row 16 [repeat row 101]
Row 17 [repeat row 9]
Row 18 [repeat row 8]
Row 19 [repeat row 7]
Rows 20-25 [repeat Rows 6-1]

Anyone finding ANY mistakes in my text, please let me know and I will fix ASAP... for me charts are so much easier to read and notate then to write out words and I might have missed something.... 

Feedback!


----------



## tintin63

prismaticr said:


> You will be fine... let me know if you need help....
> 
> AND if you are starting top down or bottom up.... I have links to increases and decreases for DK in the round, which you will need...
> 
> DO NOT PANIC, it is easy... trust me


Hi, Back home now. Decided as my son wanted ear flaps I had to get the hang of doing double knit rib. 
First attempt of ear flap done. I used the directions for the double heart headband off Ravelry.


----------



## prismaticr

tintin63 said:


> Hi, Back home now. Decided as my son wanted ear flaps I had to get the hang of doing double knit rib.
> First attempt of ear flap done. I used the directions for the double heart headband off Ravelry.


And the new skill set is getting learned... Ribbing in DK is a challenge.. and I am glad you are working it. LOOKING GOOD!!!

For anyone wanting to do a 1x1 ribbing in DK.. here's how..

*Ribbing while double knitting as follows:*
With both yarns at back - Knit with MC.
With MC yarn held in front, and CC yarn held at back - Knit with CC
With MC yarn held in front, and CC yarn held at back - Purl with MC
With both yarns held in front - Purl with CC.


----------



## Patsy Ruth

Color penciling in the blocks works beautifully. For me coloring the rows as I come to them is the best method. I always know where I am just by looking at the chart. I recently started working with lace charts and think charts are so much easier than printed patterns. Just have to get used to them. Thanks again Prismaticr for bringing this workshop to us. I will be at it for a few more days. I work full time and am on row 11 of the snowflake design.


----------



## prismaticr

Patsy Ruth said:


> http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-192617-1.html
> 
> check out the awesome scarf posted here today.


Omg! I need to get me that! !!!!!!


----------



## prismaticr

texMich said:


> Hi, all! I've started the snowflake design and watched the video for the no twist slip stitch edge. My question is when do we start doing that edge, with the second row?


Start on row after cast on. ..


----------



## prismaticr

In the SOTA said:


> When I got half way through the Snowflake chart I noticed my fabric was very wide compared with what I've seen on other posts in the Parade. I suspect my loose knitting style is the reason. The shift between the knit and purl seems to be the problem. Should I twist the stitches to tighten up their shape?


First it depends on the type of yarn. Cotton will be wide. Acrylic not so much.

Do not twist the yarns, it does not tighten as expected....

And how wide is it?


----------



## linda6200

Last night I watched Alasdair Post-Quinn's (I think that's his name) videos for extreme double knit; the four winds hat he made. He makes it look so easy! But maybe, double knit in the round might be easier in some ways; no confusion as to which color to use first.


----------



## prismaticr

jmai5421 said:


> I agree with islandgirl. Right now I have to concentrate on every row repeating to myself aloud main-color and how many stitches or cc, color and how many stitches. I can concentrate on a row or two and then have to do something else. I am in hopes with more practice I can do this faster and I can see at a glance what color and what I have to do. Until then I will keep practicing. I do love this knitting though. Thanks for this workshop and all your patience Rachel.


Did you see how I noted my personal snowflake copy?

I track number of KNIT repeats (cuz the others are purls)...
like 1 MC 1 CC 2 MC 1 MC.....
this lets me do sections with out constantly looking at the chart... then I can always just verify my stitches completed and move to the next section.

Does that make sense?


----------



## jadancey

Finally finished. I knew I couldn't do the Snowflake yet, so tried the Teapot. My stitches are very uneven, especially where I placed a lifeline. Challenging, but enjoyed knitting it. Now I want to try a few patterns I found in Ravelry which called for cotton yarn.


----------



## In the SOTA

prismaticr said:


> First it depends on the type of yarn. Cotton will be wide. Acrylic not so much.
> 
> Do not twist the yarns, it does not tighten as expected....
> 
> And how wide is it?


I was discouraged with the proportion of my work at the halfway point. I see what you mean about the type of yarn. I had used two balls of yarn from my stash. One ball was not the exact same yarn as the other ball. So my piece was turning out to be 11" wide and 4" high where it was the half way point on the chart. I'm going to get more matching yarn at the store for this project.


----------



## prismaticr

jadancey said:


> Finally finished. I knew I couldn't do the Snowflake yet, so tried the Teapot. My stitches are very uneven, especially where I placed a lifeline. Challenging, but enjoyed knitting it. Now I want to try a few patterns I found in Ravelry which called for cotton yarn.


Teapot of awesomeness!!!!
Post it in the parade with the others...
And by the way, after you stretch and pull it every direction, you cant see any un-even-ness at all!!!!!!!!


----------



## prismaticr

In the SOTA said:


> I was discouraged with the proportion of my work at the halfway point. I see what you mean about the type of yarn. I had used two balls of yarn from my stash. One ball was not the exact same yarn as the other ball. So my piece was turning out to be 11" wide and 4" high where it was the half way point on the chart. I'm going to get more matching yarn at the store for this project.


Oh my, mixing of yarn types... well that does create a problem of its own....


----------



## islandgirl81

prismaticr said:


> Did you see how I noted my personal snowflake copy?
> 
> I track number of KNIT repeats (cuz the others are purls)...
> like 1 MC 1 CC 2 MC 1 MC.....
> this lets me do sections with out constantly looking at the chart... then I can always just verify my stitches completed and move to the next section.
> 
> Does that make sense?


I think I do something similar. Here's a pic of how I do this without coloring in the squares. Here I've put the sticky note at the edge of the dark squares so if I have to put my piece down, I'll know where I am. And if you look straight down from that, I've numbered the squares from R to L and from L to R. So right now I can look at the chart and see that I should have 11 sts left in row 16. With an easy pattern like the teapot I say to myself 2 dark, 2 light or if my brain is working at the time, I would repeat 2, 2, 3, 1. I added a row at each end and top and bottom. Maybe there's an easier way to do this.  
Oops...I just realized I must have missed your personal copy. I'll go find it.


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## islandgirl81

prismaticr said:


> When i am working a charted pattern that someone else wrote, my tech leaks out... and I digitally "highlight" it. See Adobe lets you highlight any text on a page... so i do. This way, i can modify things as I go, I am a digital person and so I can have my pattern on my tablet or phone with me always... and then I can share it with others on the go etc...
> 
> For actual paper patterns, honestly I havent printed anything in so long I am not really sure what I would do...


This is my goal. I have way too many papers and binders full of papers. I've been looking for your personal copy and can't find it but it could be because I've been awake since 1 a.m. I'll try again later. Thank you. I didn't mean to put all these smilies on here but after looking at it, it just made me smile so that's a good thing.....I need a nap!!


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## jmai5421

prismaticr said:


> Did you see how I noted my personal snowflake copy?
> 
> I track number of KNIT repeats (cuz the others are purls)...
> like 1 MC 1 CC 2 MC 1 MC.....
> this lets me do sections with out constantly looking at the chart... then I can always just verify my stitches completed and move to the next section.
> 
> Does that make sense?


It does. That is about what I do but I keep checking the chart to make sure I am on the right stitch. I have the row highlighted with marker and with a ruler. I think as I do more charts and double knitting things will fall into place easier. I do regular color knitting and intarsia. I think I am being intimated with the purl stitch and I need to get over it. That will take practice. I am going to do a few before I tackle the invisible cast on and invisible sides. The cast on looks like the same as for toe up socks.


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## prismaticr

islandgirl81 said:


> I think I do something similar. Here's a pic of how I do this without coloring in the squares. Here I've put the sticky note at the edge of the dark squares so if I have to put my piece down, I'll know where I am. And if you look straight down from that, I've numbered the squares from R to L and from L to R. So right now I can look at the chart and see that I should have 11 sts left in row 16. With an easy pattern like the teapot I say to myself 2 dark, 2 light or if my brain is working at the time, I would repeat 2, 2, 3, 1. I added a row at each end and top and bottom. Maybe there's an easier way to do this.
> Oops...I just realized I must have missed your personal copy. I'll go find it.


You got it... 2 dark 2light.... Yuppie.....


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## prismaticr

fruway said:


> I was away and just got back. Now I have to relearn double knitting again, I did the practice one, but now forget everything. Can someone post a PDF of the teapot pattern. The other link for Raverly doesn't seem to open now. Thanks so much.


Here's a different one until someone can get us the other one.. I can't find mine atm.... 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/coffee-and-tea-dk-pot-holders


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## islandgirl81

Here's a copy of the teapot. If its not clear enough, let me know. I'll take another photo of it.


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## In the SOTA

prismaticr said:


> Oh my, mixing of yarn types... well that does create a problem of its own....


I went ahead and finished the piece. I'll deal with the yarn issue. Thank you for your patience with my questions and also for all the extras of teaching examples. This workshop was really something I enjoyed for the past two weeks. SOTA is the name of my home (boat).
Linda


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## prismaticr

Sota -looking great. ..
Kaix... you'll get there. ..

Anyone else still working, I am in at least once a day for help. I think I will see about keeping the workshop open for a while as so many are coming in still and starting up. This technique is not hard! !!! But can be tedious. Be patient! !!! Take the breaks I require you will thank me later...

Then anyone who wants to join me in the land of crazy who saw the link posted to the Null hypthnoisis scarf of awesome. .... let me know. 

You will have to buy the pattern and I almost never do, But that one had me hook line and sinker....
So my advice to the crazy and the beginner alike. ..


Take this double knit stuff ONE LINE AT A TIME! !!!

See you on the flip side!


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## kaixixang

You wanted photos...I have 4 that are clear enough...will post them after I initiate first send.

If you are wondering...the safety pins are for MY sanity for the next row!

AND...since I had to add these pictures one-at-a-time - it should be clear that I have dial up. I have YET to get a dedicated video card to enable me to view YouTube like videos first-time without waiting for full download of stream.

Yes, I can view the smaller videos...but I don't feel like it at present.


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## Suula

The last post "lost" all my text! I had said I was wondering about the safety pins and I found it amazing how creative we all were about finding solutions that suited the way we think. The link is for the original teapot reversible pattern linked. xx


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## prismaticr

Suula said:


> Wow - a coat that is double knitted....Central Park Coat
> 
> http://images4.ravelrycache.com/uploads/WoolHaven/16185909/Central_Park_Coat_1_medium2.JPG
> 
> pattern found at:
> http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/central-park-coat


First I am so glad you are on my band wagon... 
Next that coat is amazing. But as I think I am coming to the crazy awesome scarf this year the coat will have to wait for next year. .. I can't even think of the hours needed. .. but I do know to will need to learn increases and decreases.

Now When doing DK... increases and decreases are not quite like normal! !!!!

But that I think we'll have to be a lesson for another day.


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## prismaticr

JeanJean said:


> Now that everyone else is finishing up, I am ready to get started. But thanks to your excellent tutoring, and the wonderful comments, I know I can do it and learn this new thing! I love seeing the finished products. They are beautiful. I am glad I can take this class.


You can do it. .. and I will help you. ..


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## Designer1234

What a great job you are all doing!! Wonderful workshop Rachel and ladies!!

I am so impressed. I made a dishcloth but haven't had a chance to do any more than that - I plan on doing the snowflake and tea pot once I have some projects finished (in my spare (?) time - for the flood victims here in Calgary. Our winters are bitter so some of us are knitting winter wear (scarves, cowls, mittens and hats) for those who have been made homeless from the dreadful flood in my home city, Calgary. I do plan on using this technique and I thank Rachel - who by the way is one of the most talented people I have ever met. 

She can do anything! great job Rachel. Shirley


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## shewolf389

Suula said:


> This will be an aspiration, but no promises!


You go girl! There is not enough booze on this planet for me to attempt something like that, lol.


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## prismaticr

Linda, I agree with you. .
Shirley- You are to kind! 

I do try. .. but Jack of many, master of some. ..
That's how I say it!


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## Shlamassl

Hi prismaticr, found your workshop at last. A little late but here I am. My aim is to be able to do a coat as posted by Suula for my twin granddaughters for when they are five, 19 month right now. Hopefully plenty of time to learn increases and decreases ..... ! But first a scarf for the guys in the family as a Christmas present. Now off to read the intro of what I have to do.


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## Suula

Shlamassl said:


> Hi prismaticr, found your workshop at last. A little late but here I am. My aim is to be able to do a coat as posted by Suula for my twin granddaughters for when they are five, 19 month right now. Hopefully plenty of time to learn increases and decreases ..... ! But first a scarf for the guys in the family as a Christmas present. Now off to read the intro of what I have to do.


I like it, have a plan already and giving yourself plenty of time to achieve it

:thumbup:


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## Shlamassl

Done the practise piece. Gone wrong in the first row of the pattern. Below is a picture. The snowflake will have to wait until next week after I've finished some other projects. The one thing I need to get my head around is reading the chart properly when the colours reverse on the return row. Otherwise great fun although this kind of knitting will take at least twice as long as regular knitting.


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## jmai5421

Hi Rachel
I finished my snowflake and am quite pleased. I posted it on the parade.


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## Revan

You did a great job, and your purple and pink are good colors together.


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## prismaticr

jmai5421 said:


> Hi Rachel
> I finished my snowflake and am quite pleased. I posted it on the parade.


Saw it, looks great!
They all do...


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## prismaticr

Shlamassl said:


> Done the practise piece. Gone wrong in the first row of the pattern. Below is a picture. The snowflake will have to wait until next week after I've finished some other projects. The one thing I need to get my head around is reading the chart properly when the colours reverse on the return row. Otherwise great fun although this kind of knitting will take at least twice as long as regular knitting.


Welcome! Glad to have you at last....
First - wrong on first row? Dont see it in pictures... 
2nd - The plan.. I love it...
3rd - Yes it does take longer than regular knit, but then again you _are_ creating BOTH sides at one time... so in the sense that it takes longer.. yup that is very logical. Because otherwise you knit 2 separate pieces and seem them together.. now that would take even longer!


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## Patsy Ruth

Just need to bind off my snowflake and will try to finish and post it after work today. The hardest part is keeping even stitches which I DID NOT. I will try again because I refuse to give up. Great fun, thanks again Rachel and Shirley for bringing this workshop to us.


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## prismaticr

For ALL:
Some of you are going above and beyond basic DK....
To that end you might want to consider some of these advanced techniques......

*Increases and Decreases in DK*
The key here is that you must remember that the 2 sides are knit at the same time and are POLAR opposites....

Here is a good review of how increases and decreases are done...
http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/increases
http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/decreases

The thing to look for is if the facing side is to slant to the right the back side needs to slant to the right too.... thus when you turn around they slant the same way.... // NOT /\
To do that, for example, you would K2T on one side, and SSP for the next.

NOW dont forget you will need to reorder your stitches to do things like this on decrease rows!.....
This is NOT hard. But you dont want to just K2T because, don't forget, you 2loops closest to each other are ACTUALLY 2 DIFFERENT SIDES OF THE FABRIC...
Just slip the stitches to either the right hand needle to reorder them or use a cable need to temporarily hold the loops ....

Alasdair Post-Quinnn does a great video of things like this... Check it out.... 




Watch carefully around the 3:36 mark for a neat quick way to reorder stitches WITHOUT DROPPING or using a stitch holder OF ANY KIND (This is how I do it too)

Now for those of you who really want to take a go at the Extreme side of Double Knit.... My tip here is to really make sure you understand charts first...
The "extreme" comes into play when you are using more than 2 colors on the same project, at the same time.... OR if you are knitting a 2 sided fabric and the sides are NOT exactly the same.

So by not the same I mean, for example, the letter "R" ... if you DK it in the standard way, on one side it will face front, but on the back side it would be reversed.
The extreme factor comes into play because you will be essentially reading a separate chart for the back side R so it faces the correct direction when viewed.

OK everyone take a breath here. It is not that hard, IF YOU TRULY UNDERSTAND CHARTS! You actually need to realize that the 2 sides are 2 DIFFERENT projects! when you can separate them in your head, you can DK anything on EITHER SIDE! Alasdair's 4 winds hat is a perfect example... he knits the hat such that the N-S-E-W directions are correct when either side of the design is warn.

Some of you are going to work the Null Hypothesis scarf shared by a student ( I know I am) and that is nothing more than piecing together the many charts and remembering to take breaks because it is 6 feet long....

As for those doing hats or the coat, there you will need many of these tips.

Anyone working these more advanced projects finding difficulty as they go along, please feel free to PM me!!!!!
I generally check in at least once or twice a week, sometimes more. If you PM me and I dont reply right away, and you are stuck, then TAKE A BREAK! I will help, i promise!

My last tip is again about pockets... especially when you want to work them right along with the main project, ie sweater etc....
My suggestion, is to work a tube in the knit slip technique first. Make sure you understand HOW it is created, by ACTUALLY doing one. Then when you go to work a pocket right along the project, either flat knit or DK, you will understand where to place the first row of stitches such that the pocket works INTO the piece, AND the opening is in the right place.

This one will take some practice as well. It is not hard at all, but best done by learning the skill by itself.
For example, I knit an eye glass case for my DH. Cast on a few stitches and the knit slip, OR slip knit.... tube created....

Now you have more bits to process... any questions I will do my best.
Anyone on BREAK, workshop open until weekend.... After that PM me.

Everyone else, it has been my pleasure to help you learn to knit a fabric that becomes such a conversation starter....
The possibilities are wide open! Take some chances. The worst thing that could happen........... You have to Frog it! Then you just reuse the yarn!

*Remember.....*
There are no _mistakes_ in yarn work, only _design_ elements meant by the creator!


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## prismaticr

Patsy Ruth said:


> Just need to bind off my snowflake and will try to finish and post it after work today. The hardest part is keeping even stitches which I DID NOT. I will try again because I refuse to give up. Great fun, thanks again Rachel and Shirley for bringing this workshop to us.


DO the "stretch, pull" thing and the stitches will even up.... just remember to hold both yarns at all times, this keep the tension the same through out EACH stitch....


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## prismaticr

Topic is now closed. For additional information not found on these pages. please try and private message (pm) the listed teacher.

Thank you and happy knitting/crocheting!


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