# Neckbands



## Caggsie (Mar 29, 2012)

I am about to venture in knitting a neckband on a jumper I am making for other half. Past jumpers are only fit for gardening and not really to been seen in public. I recently finished a cardi for me and it's fab. My question is, when knitting the neckband on a round neck jumper why is there a preference to knitting it separately then sewing it on? Is this a better look, more professional than stretching out the neckline and knitting the neckband directly onto the knitting? I want to make something that he is proud of wearing in public rather than it being "oh lovely dear, can wear it for gardening". Bodies, sleeves I have no problem with but seem to ruin the look of past creations when I put the neckband/section on. Incidently have used both ways, sewing and knitting on.


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## Elis (Nov 1, 2011)

It always seems to me to be the most difficult to make a sewn on neckband look good and sit properly. My preference is to knit a separate neckband, shaped by tension changes to lie flat in wear. Whether the neckband is rib, stocking stitch, single or doubled, work one row at main tension +1 with the right side facing you (to make a line of stitches to represent the classy backstitched band). With one shoulder seam left open pick up the stitches all round the neck on to the same needles as the band, work 1 row and bind or cast off. Neckband attached in place, no stitching. Close shoulder seam and job complete.


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## susieknitter (Jul 14, 2011)

Elis said:


> It always seems to me to be the most difficult to make a sewn on neckband look good and sit properly. My preference is to knit a separate neckband, shaped by tension changes to lie flat in wear. Whether the neckband is rib, stocking stitch, single or doubled, work one row at main tension +1 with the right side facing you (to make a line of stitches to represent the classy backstitched band). With one shoulder seam left open pick up the stitches all round the neck on to the same needles as the band, work 1 row and bind or cast off. Neckband attached in place, no stitching. Close shoulder seam and job complete.


I agree with Elis. I also find this way the easiest and neatest way to do a neck band.


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## ksojerio (Aug 2, 2011)

I prefer a cut and sew neckline, but I do knit a doubled neckand. The first half of the band I knit at MT and for the turning row I do MT + 1; for the back of the band I do MT.


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## Caggsie (Mar 29, 2012)

Elis said:


> It always seems to me to be the most difficult to make a sewn on neckband look good and sit properly. My preference is to knit a separate neckband, shaped by tension changes to lie flat in wear. Whether the neckband is rib, stocking stitch, single or doubled, work one row at main tension +1 with the right side facing you (to make a line of stitches to represent the classy backstitched band). With one shoulder seam left open pick up the stitches all round the neck on to the same needles as the band, work 1 row and bind or cast off. Neckband attached in place, no stitching. Close shoulder seam and job complete.


Sorry Ellis, have I got this right. Work the band separately to the jumper, the last row to be knit is t+1, leave this on the needle bed and the hang the neck of the jumper on the same needles as the neckband. (neckband first) The bit that's throwing me is right side facing you. Is this the neckband or the jumper. do I have to turn the neck band or is it hang the jumper right side facing you?


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## DizzyDi (Sep 19, 2012)

I knit a band on all my jumpers try this - join right shoulder seam then with RIGHT side facing pick up sts from back neck down the front,front neck then back up the other side. Knit 1 row MT (7). Transfer sts to form mock rib. Knit 5 rows 1 tension tighter than main (6). Knit 4 rows 2 tensions tighter than main (5). Knit 1 row 2 tensions looser than main (9). Knit 4 rows 2 tensions tighter than main(5). knit 5 rows 1 tension tighter than main(6).Bring empty needles back to working position. Place the first row knitted above the waste yarn onto the needles to form a hem. Knit 4 rows plain on main tension. Take off on waste yarn. Pin waste down and backstitch through the last row of main yarn. Becareful when pulling off the waste yarn make sure you have backstitched all stitches Good Luck


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## Elis (Nov 1, 2011)

Sorry caggsie I didn't make this quite clear. You have the neckband on the needles, right side facing you. You then put the body with its right side facing the neckband, so that the seam comes on the inside of the garment. With finer yarns it is sometimes helpful to pull the neck stitches of the garment through those of the neckband then work 1 row and bind off. (It helps to cover any stitches from the garment which might be a little uneven)


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## susieknitter (Jul 14, 2011)

Elis, more than likely, does this also, but has not thought to tell you. If you are using a thick yarn, before doing the knit together row, bring all your needles forward to hold position,(carriage not on hold), it will be easier to knit the row then. And it is also a good idea to do this row on a higher stitch tension to make the cast off easier, particularly if you intend to use the latch tool to cast off.


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## DizzyDi (Sep 19, 2012)

Its the jumper that is right side facing you.


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## susieknitter (Jul 14, 2011)

DizzyDi said:


> Its the jumper that is right side facing you.


You only have the jumper right side facing you, if you have knitted double the length of neckband that you require. You then need to turn the neckband over the join (last row of knitting) and hand stitch down, to hide the seam. If you don't want a doubled over neck band then you knit the joining row with the jumpers wrong side facing you.


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