# Auto Knitter (CSM) Anyone in Tacoma, WA that can help?



## jkt (Apr 14, 2011)

I purchased an Auto Knitter from Craig's list, it has an instruction book, and I've watched countless of you tube video's -- all week am yet to get a sock made. Every time I start a heel I drop stitches, or something happens to make me have to start over. I finally made a cast on bonnet on my regular knitting machine. Is there anyone in Tacoma area that can help me get started. The 72 cylinder was in the machine when I bought it. I had to take it all apart to clean as it was very dirty. I tried to use the other cylinder, but it doesn't seem to fit as snug, like maybe it is not made for this machine, so didn't try it.


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## Entity (Sep 13, 2011)

Welcome to the forum Julie. Below is a link to groups in WA. You may want to see if there's a machine knitting group nearby you.
http://machineknitpensacola.net/otherclubs.html


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## Chainstitcher (May 6, 2011)

Julie, I hope you can find someone nearby, but I never have (SE Indiana). Have you joined the Yahoo Groups? Eric on Socknittingmachinefriends got me over that same hump in a single email (Message #27326). I had watched videos where the operator cranked rapidly back and forth on the heel and I do that now, but at first, I had to learn to slow down and watch what was actually happening stitch by stitch. I will send you more on a Private Message on KP. You may find someone local on the Groups, but if not, you will find friends who are really helpful. I got started; you can, too! Ruth


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## avril (May 4, 2011)

Hello, please join the Yahoo group "Sock Knitting Machine Friends" You will receive lots of help and information. I have now sold my machine and I live in the UK. When making your heels and toes, use plenty of weights right up to the very edge and also pull down on your work at the same time. Use a good quality sock yarn. These machines do not like 100% acrylic. I am sure that more experienced people will be able to help you.


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## MadsWeb (May 27, 2011)

Welcome to the world of CSMs. I wish I was closer so I could help. There are small groups in WA so if you joined the group(s) you have probably found them. When I first started, there was no one in the South or at least in my area that even knew what CSMs were. Good luck!


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## jkruse1971 (Feb 4, 2011)

Hi Julie!
There are sooo many variables when it comes to CSM issues! When I first started heels, I had my weights all wrong, my heel tension spring was set incorrectly and I think my yarn carrier was misalligned as well. It was a disaster to say the least. I too found tons of helpful people on the yahoo group....Are you using the tension spring? If so, is it pulling the yarn so that when you reverse direction, it picks up the slack? If not, you're sure to drop stitches. I've also found the weight placement to be critical in the heels / toes. If you have a heel hook, it needs to be placed so that the hooks come through just inside your target hash marks about 1/4 inch dwon below the edge of the cylinder. (heel forks at the edges help too, but if your hook is placed in the sweet spot, you shouldn't need them) Are you dropping stitches in one direction or both? 
= )
Julie


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## jkt (Apr 14, 2011)

jkruse1971 said:


> Hi Julie!
> There are sooo many variables when it comes to CSM issues! When I first started heels, I had my weights all wrong, my heel tension spring was set incorrectly and I think my yarn carrier was misalligned as well. It was a disaster to say the least. I too found tons of helpful people on the yahoo group....Are you using the tension spring? If so, is it pulling the yarn so that when you reverse direction, it picks up the slack? If not, you're sure to drop stitches. I've also found the weight placement to be critical in the heels / toes. If you have a heel hook, it needs to be placed so that the hooks come through just inside your target hash marks about 1/4 inch dwon below the edge of the cylinder. (heel forks at the edges help too, but if your hook is placed in the sweet spot, you shouldn't need them) Are you dropping stitches in one direction or both?
> = )
> Julie


I find I learn something new every time I make a mistake!!! I did get through a heel last night, but seems like the stitches got tighter and I had to hand knit a few of them almost every row. I'm sure its the tension. I don't have a heel hook. I had my husband bend some forks and drilled a hole in the bottom and hung weights from my knitting machine on them. Is the tension spring the wire on the mast???? I think it needs to be replaced, don't see how it can hold any yarn in it - when doing the heel, I ended up going real slow and holding the yarn with my hand to make sure there was no slack; it took me a long time. I have several tension masts for my knitting machines, maybe I'll see if one works. 
I did try the ribber using 3 x 1; the ribbing stitches knitted okay, but at least 1 out of the three stitches on the cylinder dropped....
Thanks for everyone's help.


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## Chainstitcher (May 6, 2011)

Hi, Julie, the heel tension actually works like a brake. You only engage it while working on the heel and toe. It would help you. A lot of people only use the fork weights, so I think you are OK there. Keep going slowly, especially on the heel and toe, and someday you will realize you aren't struggling with it anymore. When I did a demo, I hadn't knitted for a while and was afraid I would have a catastrophe in front of a group, but to my surprise, I cranked with confidence. I will be contacting you to help me get started with my ribber. I still have my ribbed waste yarn hanging there waiting for me to try my first ribbed sock! I did not realize you are ribbing already! Ruth


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## jkt (Apr 14, 2011)

No,not ribbing already....just tried.


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## jkruse1971 (Feb 4, 2011)

Hi again Julie! Yes, you should be fine with heel forks if they're placed correctly. In my experience, stitches will not knit if the weight isn't pulling the previous rows stitch down past the latch when the needle rises. This is where the tension wire comes in handy for me. It's like an extra pair of hands. I usually pull down and inward on the knitting as I'm changing direction because the first few stitches are the ones most likely to misbehave. Can you post a pic of your yarn mast with the wire (take-up spring, heel spring) As for the ribber, I could be way off here but when I dropped cylinder stitches with the ribber engaged, it was because my ribber was set too high...hoping that helps a little?
= )
Julie


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## Chainstitcher (May 6, 2011)

Yarn Junkie, I love your description of the heel spring as being like an extra pair of hands. Exactly! Ruth


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## jkruse1971 (Feb 4, 2011)

Yes! I've been reminded of how difficult it is without that extra pair of hands this week! I've been doing childrens socks on a Franz & Pope (using lycra) and I haven't had time to tinker with the spring so I'm manually tensioning...the heels and toes are a REAL pain in the rear!! I think it's time to tinker!!! 
= )
Julie


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## Chainstitcher (May 6, 2011)

jkruse1971 said:


> Yes! I've been reminded of how difficult it is without that extra pair of hands this week! I've been doing childrens socks on a Franz & Pope (using lycra) and I haven't had time to tinker with the spring so I'm manually tensioning...the heels and toes are a REAL pain in the rear!! I think it's time to tinker!!!
> = )
> Julie


Ha, ha! I know that one of mine needs "tinkering" but like you, am going to do it after this project. Glad to know I have this in common with another cranker! Ruth


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## jkt (Apr 14, 2011)

jkruse1971 said:


> Hi again Julie! Yes, you should be fine with heel forks if they're placed correctly. In my experience, stitches will not knit if the weight isn't pulling the previous rows stitch down past the latch when the needle rises. This is where the tension wire comes in handy for me. It's like an extra pair of hands. I usually pull down and inward on the knitting as I'm changing direction because the first few stitches are the ones most likely to misbehave. Can you post a pic of your yarn mast with the wire (take-up spring, heel spring) As for the ribber, I could be way off here but when I dropped cylinder stitches with the ribber engaged, it was because my ribber was set too high...hoping that helps a little?
> = )
> Julie


I'll get a picture of the yarn mast sent to you when I get home from work. Good to know about the ribber being too high.


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## jkt (Apr 14, 2011)

Here's a picture of the wire on the tension mast -- Hard to get a good picture of the wire.
It looks like it has been broke off because there is no way the yarn can stay in that loop.


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## jkruse1971 (Feb 4, 2011)

Hi Julie, From what I can see in the pic, your spring looks ok...it's hard to tell though. The spring should come forward on the mast and pick up your yarn between the 'hump' on the long arm and the hole at the end. There should also be a thicker wire piece threaded through a small hole on that 'hump'. When the yarn is pulled up through the heel spring, the back end of this thicker wire piece is forced up against the 'hump'. It stops the yarn from feeding and keeps the heel spring from popping straight upright. Once you start cranking again, the heel spring is lowered enough to allow the yarn to pass freely. I'll post a pic of one of my gearhart toppers that works in the same way when I'm back from dropping kids off at school. Sorry for the lack of proper terminology...it's early! LOL 
Julie


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## jkruse1971 (Feb 4, 2011)

The first one is while cranking...yarn feeding. Then when the crank stops, the yarn brake engages and stops the yarn from feeding. (although your brake may look different, this one is homemade-lol) There should also be some sort of adjustment knob (or just a screw) where your spring is attached to your mast...so you can tweak the tension...


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## jkt (Apr 14, 2011)

Your pictures help. I think the wire on mine is sprung .. but I'll see if I can tighten it up.
So what is the heel spring? The tension wire?


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## jkt (Apr 14, 2011)

ah ha! I adjusted the screw and now the wire stays forward!! Thanks so much. Will have to try it out tonight when I get home from work.


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## jkruse1971 (Feb 4, 2011)

I'm so sorry Julie! I've just read my posts and realized that I've called it by at least 3 different names!!! Talk about confusing!! Yes, the heel spring is the tension wire.  And you've got the right idea in adjusting it with the screw! You may not want it to come too far forward though, when it's not in use. It depends on the individual machine, but mine are usually either straight up or even a little backwards when not in use. You want the coil at the wire's base to provide the tension. When the yarn is threaded through, it pulls the wire forward....does that make sense? Play with it a little when you get the chance and let me know how it goes! You'll be turning heels like a pro soon!
= )


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## marthaleah (Oct 26, 2012)

I live in Gig Harbor. Not sure what an auto-knitter is. There are various sock knitters I remember from England, all victorian and you turn them with a crank. 

Can you send me a picture so I know what kind of machine you are talking about?

marthaleah (at) comcast (dot) net


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## marthaleah (Oct 26, 2012)

Aha! this in England is called a Tensioner!


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## jkt (Apr 14, 2011)

Thank you so much everyone.... I finally was able to get a sock made -- now to make the other..... hope it fits my husband because it turned out way too big for me. I used 3 x1 mock rib which pulls it in a bit, but the toe seems really big.

Julie


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## jkt (Apr 14, 2011)

marthaleah said:


> I live in Gig Harbor. Not sure what an auto-knitter is. There are various sock knitters I remember from England, all victorian and you turn them with a crank.
> 
> Can you send me a picture so I know what kind of machine you are talking about?
> 
> marthaleah (at) comcast (dot) net


Here's a picture....


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## avril (May 4, 2011)

Hi, Well done, your sock is great. Your toe doesn't look too big. You will find when you wash it that the stitches will close up a bit. You should fly through your other one!


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## jkruse1971 (Feb 4, 2011)

Congratulations on your first sock (first of many!) It looks awesome! Well done!!
= )
Julie


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## MadsWeb (May 27, 2011)

Ok, If you are going to make socks you need to learn how to rib!!! I am one of those who has made many, many socks of all types, but still at times... the machine shows me who the master is. LOL... I love these machines. The main thing I have found with dropping stitches is the tension. Once the tension is set for the yarn used then the heel becomes a piece of cake. Yes, I use heel forks, but only move them two or three times during a sock. The center fork is the one I move and pull down the most. Also, making sure that you disengaging the needles when you make a pass. Sometimes I get in a hurry and don't go far enough so I drop a stitch. Usually, I don't, but there are times that I am making socks so fast that I think I am in control. Too much weight can be just as bad as on weigt at times. The main thing is just to make one heel after another until you can make heels... Good luck and email me anytime.
Mad

Oh... and don't forget to start making my Santa Buddy Scarf for all your friends for Christmas. I still have it post on the yahoo groups.


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## jkt (Apr 14, 2011)

I looked at your Santa Buddy Scarf -- real cute - I haven't been able to get the smaller cylinder to fit - not sure if its warped or what. I suppose too, if you are using Red Heart, do you need to use the larger hooked needles? Thanks for the advise -- I had one of those small double ended latch hooks for my knitting machines - I finally figured out how to use it!!! It has become my friend on the sock machine!
Julie


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## MadsWeb (May 27, 2011)

You can use the large hook, but I use the regular hook most of the time. Really it is the machine, to me, more than anything. I have Legare 400's that I use the most. I use the 54 for large yarns and 72 for socks. My Auto Knitter 60 cylinder and Gearhart 60 cylinder will also knit the larger yarns. The cams or the main thing. Also, when knitting the eyelash yarn and hanging a hem if there is a problem hang the red from the hat and the flesh color from the face so the machine doesn't jam. Mine don't jam but others have said it was hard to knit so I just make the suggestion.
Mad


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## jkt (Apr 14, 2011)

MadsWeb said:


> Ok, If you are going to make socks you need to learn how to rib!!! I am one of those who has made many, many socks of all types, but still at times... the machine shows me who the master is. LOL... I love these machines. The main thing I have found with dropping stitches is the tension. Once the tension is set for the yarn used then the heel becomes a piece of cake. Yes, I use heel forks, but only move them two or three times during a sock. The center fork is the one I move and pull down the most. Also, making sure that you disengaging the needles when you make a pass. Sometimes I get in a hurry and don't go far enough so I drop a stitch. Usually, I don't, but there are times that I am making socks so fast that I think I am in control. Too much weight can be just as bad as on weigt at times. The main thing is just to make one heel after another until you can make heels... Good luck and email me anytime.
> Mad
> 
> Oh... and don't forget to start making my Santa Buddy Scarf for all your friends for Christmas. I still have it post on the yahoo groups.


I am feeling a bit more confident after ready everyone's posts. I have a good start of waste yarn going with the ribber on. 3 x 1 rib. Its working great but the rib needles aren't exactly across from cylinder needle space -- i adjusted so it started out right, but while knitting they seem to be off. I dropped a stitch here and there but changed the needles and seems to be working good. Am going to search and see if I can find a video to make ribbed socks.


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