# cut and sew finish



## Schnauzermom

I saw a program on tv about a lady who was machine knitting sweaters and instead of knitting the arm holes and neck she knitted the piece in the general size, blocked it, then cut it to the desired shape and finished it with the sewing machine. 
Has anyone else ever heard of this? What is it called? It made a beautiful sweater.


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## christine 47

Schnauzermom said:


> I saw a program on tv about a lady who was machine knitting sweaters and instead of knitting the arm holes and neck she knitted the piece in the general size, blocked it, then cut it to the desired shape and finished it with the sewing machine.
> Has anyone else ever heard of this? What is it called? It made a beautiful sweater.[/quote
> 
> The only cut and sew I have done has been around the necks. I would imagine if you do the whole garment you would have to use an overlocker so the edges dont fray.


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## Janeybabes

Hi
All I ever do is cut and sew. Have also cut and sewed cardigans from a basic knitted drop shoulder sweater instead of messing around with making 2 fronts and counting etc..

It should be called sew and cut really.

I straight stitch my line first.. with a fairly close stitch and then I zig zag over this with a very close zigzag. I then put the garment back on the machine and knit the neckband.. They never ever fray.. and some must have been washed over 30 times.

When I first started doing this I used to iron the sweater at the very edge with a hot iron to flatten the acrylic and make it easier to mark and sew.. now I dont I just guess a rough arc for the neck and sew..

I do everything for ease and speed when I machine knit. I never cast off shoulders or sleeves, take off on waste wool, and graft together on machine..

When I sew up machine knits I fold my loose ends in towards the middle.. run the sewing machine up on a close zig zag and then just cut off the ends close to the stitches.. never fray and never come undone..


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## KateWood

Thanks Janeybabes I've been hesitant to try this, and with Double Jacquard it seems to be the only way. I sure hope this works, my fabric has a lot of slipped st floats knit in the ribs.


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## Janeybabes

It will work.. Just let the sewing machine feed the material and take it slowly.. Only one potential problem.. Watch the floats don't catch under the machine foot.. If they do.. Stop.. Cut cotton.. Take sweater fully out and then just start sewing again about half an inch back..


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## Leonora

It Is actually called 'Cut and Sew' in machine knitting. I attended a course by a well know designer over here in the UK, more than 25 years ago. Basically what you do is knit fabric on your knitting machine, in whatever yarn and design you want to. When you have enough yardage knitted for your given garment, bind it off the machine. Allow to rest for 24 hours, then block it out to the width and length required. Allow to dry thoroughly before picking up. Then you can use dress making patterns on your knitted fabric to cut out the relevant pieces, and sew them together on your knitting machines. A serger is the best sewing machine for this purpose, but a straight sewing machine can be used too if necessary. Leonora


Schnauzermom said:


> I saw a program on tv about a lady who was machine knitting sweaters and instead of knitting the arm holes and neck she knitted the piece in the general size, blocked it, then cut it to the desired shape and finished it with the sewing machine.
> Has anyone else ever heard of this? What is it called? It made a beautiful sweater.


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## Schnauzermom

Thank you all so much for all your help. I am going to try this.


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## AvonelleRed

I have thought many times about doing this, but what a waste of yarn!


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## Leonora

You can just make individual sized pieces that you need, in the measurements required. You then have less wastage once you've made the garment. Leonora


AvonelleRed said:


> I have thought many times about doing this, but what a waste of yarn!


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## Elis

It used to be a popular way to make up machine knits, quicker than hand sewing but made bulky stiff seams which rather lost the point of subtlety of shaping and drape for which knitting was appreciated. Cut and sew necklines remained in favour for longer, particularly for lacy knits.


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## Zach

Schnauzermom said:


> I saw a program on tv about a lady who was machine knitting sweaters and instead of knitting the arm holes and neck she knitted the piece in the general size, blocked it, then cut it to the desired shape and finished it with the sewing machine.
> Has anyone else ever heard of this? What is it called? It made a beautiful sweater.


Yes this method is used by many mknitters. Before you cut you need to block and then sew a zig zag row. When doing double jacquard it is done and also many tuck designs.
I only use this as a last resort. I like to think that what I am making is of a much higher quality than what I can purchase in the shops.


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## nomadbubbe

I have an old McCalls Knitting book with sweater patterns that call for cut sleeves. Can you say panic!? I cut the sleeve holes after stitching around the area. I will say that using tissue paper or butcher paper under the areas to be sewn will help prevent the yarn from getting caught in the feed dogs. Now, I am an old pro!


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## euvid

I had a funny experience with it. Years ago I was taking a master seamstress program and one of the woman had a relative who worked in a knitting machine company and had given her yardage in bags to sell. Each bag had around 2 yards, enough to make a sweater. I bought a few bags. Made a few sweaters. Well I learned from it that you should baste or tack the fabric to paper in many places before you lay down your pattern, perhaps long stitches in a grid to hold the 2 layers together so they don't shift. Use a slippery thread so it will be easy to remove. Right sides together. The 1st one I made before I did the above came out with 1 arm way thinner than the other.It had shifted while cutting and sewing (use a long stitch and low pressure on the presser foot). My son ended up giving it to his wife a few years later. WHile she wouldn't wear it in public, it was very warm and as she was half his size, the shrinking that occured from a collage kid putting it in a washer, made a nice sweater for her.

Depending on the thickness of the fiber, a serger is good if it is not thick. I would also baste it together, cut it out with large seam allowances, try it on and then serge it as serging cuts off the allowance. It will give a bulky seam however.


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## mhormils

There is a book called "The Prolific Knitting Machine" by Catherine Cartwright-Jones which is all about cut and sew. Also, knititnow.com has a tutorial about cut and sew necklines and knittersedge.com probably does as well. I have not tried it, but I think I will this weekend because I have so little time for machine knitting but so much yarn to use up!


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## GrammaAnn

I have used this method as well and it works great! :thumbup:


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## Jeannie D

there is not much waste. You have to weigh the pros and cons. waste yarn or waste time. I do both. If the pattern has a lot of patterning in it sometimes it is easier to cut and sew. Go look at the magic cable patterns. They require cut and sew.


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## Schnauzermom

Once again I am so impressed at the huge amount of knowledge in this group of knitters. What a great discussion. I am so glad I found this site. I am enjoying it so much.


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## Rosalind

I only cut and sewed necklines. Didn't use a sewing machine - just marked out the neckline and ironed the waste as close as possible to the marked line. Then I used my Hague linker to attach a double neckband, enclosing the raw edge inside. I am still wearing jumpers I made like this which must be 20 years old. Lol. x


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## Ginnybee1

The "Prolific Knitting Machine" was a book I bought before I considered purchasing my first knitting machine. It really gives you a sense of freedom about knitting without a specific pattern. It got me started on machine knitting. I now own 3 machines having given the fourth away. Great book!


mhormils said:


> There is a book called "The Prolific Knitting Machine" by Catherine Cartwright-Jones which is all about cut and sew. Also, knititnow.com has a tutorial about cut and sew necklines and knittersedge.com probably does as well. I have not tried it, but I think I will this weekend because I have so little time for machine knitting but so much yarn to use up!


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## flowerp

i just bought a serger and read the prolifric knitter. Im excited about trying the cut and sew method.
flowerp


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## KateWood

I'm nervous about cutting my semi double jacquard or wide rib jacquard. I have iron on interfacing I could use but doubt it would get the floats...What if I use 2 rows of zigzag slightly different sizes? This is a slip st double jac with a rib every 4th needle so the back is like a waffle knit...


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## Jeannie D

Knit a little sample and cut and sew it until you feel comfortable with cut and sew.


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## KateWood

I have a sample to work with and I also have a hideous aversion to setting up my sewing machine. I can't explaine it is the only thing keeping me from getting this done. I have a serge machine that was given to me as a gift and I have never even plugged it in since I have been on the KM...
I'm going to have to adopt Nike's motto and, Just Do It!)


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## Janeybabes

Exactly.. Just do it!

You won't shape necks again! All that holding and making sure you are in the right place with the punchcard! 

Jane


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## KateWood

I'm getting my craft room neat so there'll be room for the sewing machine.


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## Ginnybee1

KateWood said:


> I have a sample to work with and I also have a hideous aversion to setting up my sewing machine. I can't explaine it is the only thing keeping me from getting this done. I have a serge machine that was given to me as a gift and I have never even plugged it in since I have been on the KM...
> I'm going to have to adopt Nike's motto and, Just Do It!)


I've done several "cut and sew" necklines. I never "sew" just cut and steam then apply the neckband. Never had a problem with any raveling.Once they're steamed, they're set. I normally do a commercial/pocket neckband. Hope this boosts your confidence level!


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## KateWood

Thanks All Still working on my avoidance issues with the sewing machine but I'm getting better


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## christine 47

Cut & sew neck


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## KateWood

Beautiful, show a picture of the whole sweater


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## kaceykat

Christine that is just awesome work


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## christine 47

I have a template which I draw round with tailors chalk. I am very 'belt and braces' so I always run a back stitch around the line loosely so that it will still stretch but it means I stitch through each thread, then cut. all the stray ends are enclosed in the band.


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## christine 47

KateWood said:


> Beautiful, show a picture of the whole sweater


the sweater is taken from Jean Oxley Pattern Book 17, Denis Brunton Designer Yarns. I was just looking to see if it was still available but couldn't find it. There are sweaters, cardigans/jackets and knitted suits.


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## christine 47

christine 47 said:


> KateWood said:
> 
> 
> 
> Beautiful, show a picture of the whole sweater
> 
> 
> 
> the sweater is taken from Jean Oxley Pattern Book 17, Denis Brunton Designer Yarns. I was just looking to see if it was still available but couldn't find it. There are sweaters, cardigans/jackets and knitted suits.
Click to expand...


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## KateWood

Very beautiful sweater. I'm going to have to look for similar yarn...


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## sueandlynette

Schnauzermom said:


> I saw a program on tv about a lady who was machine knitting sweaters and instead of knitting the arm holes and neck she knitted the piece in the general size, blocked it, then cut it to the desired shape and finished it with the sewing machine.
> Has anyone else ever heard of this? What is it called? It made a beautiful sweater.


Yes that is exactly the way I was taught - it does make a beautiful jersey . Just called the cut and sew technique as far as I know. I have made dozens of childrens jerseys for homes like this - mostly dropped shoulder because that was the easiest and I knew it would fit most children.


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## sueandlynette

KateWood said:


> I'm nervous about cutting my semi double jacquard or wide rib jacquard. I have iron on interfacing I could use but doubt it would get the floats...What if I use 2 rows of zigzag slightly different sizes? This is a slip st double jac with a rib every 4th needle so the back is like a waffle knit...


I made many jacquard jerseys the cut and sew way KateWood - when you zigzag you must ease the knitting under the foot of the machine - make sure never to just sew - ease it gently. I used to use my big tweezers and just "feed" it under the foot. Sometimes you may find a missed stitch but you can catch that quite easily. It really works very well once you get used to it.


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## Janneylynn

I just made 3 pair fingerless gloves on the machine.
I left a tail to make the seams...but there are no unfinished edges. I just have to seam up to the thumb opening from the cuff and down to the the thumb opening from the fingers top. Basically just one seam along the side with an opening for the thumb.

I would love not to have to mattress stitch all these gloves.
Should I steam press the glove and use a serger ? 
If I use a regular sewing machine, should I drop the feed dogs...the knit will be thick under the presser foot ?
Have never sewed a knit on the sewing machine or serger.


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