# lubricating your machine



## sammbo

what type of oil do you use on the brother knitting machines?
I cannot find the Lori-Lin Lube nor the Bellador oil.
thanks
sammbo


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## Rose_Rose

Others on here can probably tell you where you can find those products. I use a good grade sewing machine oil. It works just fine. I don't know how much those others cost, but sewing machine oil is not expensive. Whatever you decide to use, please let us know about your first projects. 

Welcome to KP.

Nancy


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## susieknitter

Welcome to the forum. I get my machine oil from those who deal with Knitting machines and their parts.


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## Elis

At my recent machine service the engineer used a rag soaked in a well known baby oil. He said he favoured it because it was reliably acid free. I make no comment.


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## Leonora

Have you tried going onto ebay and putting Bellador Oil in the search engine, in the machine knitting craft section?


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## ksojerio

Gun oil


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## Entity

Are you in the US? If so, do you live close to a JoAnn or fabric shop?

I use Singer All Purpose Machine Oil. In the back it clearly stated that it was made for knitting machine. It's a 4 oz. bottle around $3-4.

Here's what it looks like.


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## Peggy Beryl

Whatever type of oil you use, be sure to oil your machine before you start a project rather than after finishing one when you are putting it away. Yes, you do have to do some wiping off to get off any excess oil, perhaps even oil it 24 hours before you plan to start your project. 

I always kept my sewing machine very well oiled, oiling before a project. I sewed a lot for myself and my two daughters, but then I had an illness of several years and could not use my machine. It is now locked up tight after this period of disuse, and I think the oil is just congealed and not allowing things to move. I always used the recommended oil for my machine which came with it. 

I am going to ask my son to put just the metal portions on the garage floor and use my steam machine to see if the steam will get the oil loosened up enough to allow the parts to start moving. I really would like to be able to use it again.

Does anyone have a better idea? Local servicemen do not want to touch it. Please don't tell me to buy another machine. I could never get one as good as what I have--if it worked.


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## Hobbiknits

Bellador oil is mainly for Passap and Pfaff machines. Not good on others. I use 3 in 1 and have done for years.


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## Smudge

When I inherited my mum's sewing machine - a very elderly electric singer which had not been used for twenty+ years, I found it was completely gummed up and as no mechanic would touch it because of its age I resorted to using my hair-dryer to gently 'warm up' the congealed oil. It worked a treat, everything freed up and I was able to thoroughly clean out all the sticky bits and its still working a treat now another 10 years on. May be worth a try for you. I use Singer sewing machine oil for my Brother knitting machines, gently wiped on with a lint-free cloth after cleaning off all the lint and old oil.

Regards, Lynda


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## Peggy Beryl

Smudge said:


> When I inherited my mum's sewing machine - a very elderly electric singer which had not been used for twenty+ years, I found it was completely gummed up and as no mechanic would touch it because of its age I resorted to using my hair-dryer to gently 'warm up' the congealed oil. It worked a treat, everything freed up and I was able to thoroughly clean out all the sticky bits and its still working a treat now another 10 years on. May be worth a try for you. I use Singer sewing machine oil for my Brother knitting machines, gently wiped on with a lint-free cloth after cleaning off all the lint and old oil.
> 
> Regards, Lynda


Thanks, Lynda; I'll try the hair dryer before applying the steam as a last resort.


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## MadsWeb

Peggy Beryl said:


> Smudge said:
> 
> 
> 
> When I inherited my mum's sewing machine - a very elderly electric singer which had not been used for twenty+ years, I found it was completely gummed up and as no mechanic would touch it because of its age I resorted to using my hair-dryer to gently 'warm up' the congealed oil. It worked a treat, everything freed up and I was able to thoroughly clean out all the sticky bits and its still working a treat now another 10 years on. May be worth a try for you. I use Singer sewing machine oil for my Brother knitting machines, gently wiped on with a lint-free cloth after cleaning off all the lint and old oil.
> 
> Regards, Lynda
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, Lynda; I'll try the hair dryer before applying the steam as a last resort.
Click to expand...

Peggy just make sure you don't heat it up to much. I love the old sewing machine. I resently purchased an old-new machine. Mine had finally broke and I didn't want a 'new' one. Someone on Craigslist had an almost new one for sale for $80 books attachments and all. It was a few years younger than mine, but had only been used very, very little. Happy person now!!


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## Laurelbee

I use a clear oil for my machine. Have a friend who said to use wax, and I have often run my brush over the cake of wax and then over the moving parts. I don't think it could hurt and it doesn't leave any sediment or grease 

I also have lots of cotton that I bought from a towel making factory at a great price. It knits up beautifully but some of the colours are a bit hard to knit with and as I don't have any silicone, I spray the cone with canola cooking spray.
It works well, is cheap and I do hope will not do any harmxx


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## caroleg51

just be careful using a steamer, it creates moisture and it might rust the metal


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## knitnmom

The only oil I use is Syntex 10. It is a non-staining synthetic textile oil. It can be purchased at Knit & Sew World in St. Peter, MN. Wonderful oil that keeps your knitting and sewing machines humming. The cost is around $5.00 a bottle. It is a nice, light oil that never clogs things up. Have used it for years and just love it.


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## 2mchyrn

Have you tried Nedl-tek (not sure I spelled it correctly). They repair machines and are located in WA.


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## knitnmom

No I haven't. I live in Minnesota so I use Knit & Sew world in St. Peter. They also repair machines. Shawn is really good and knows his stuff.


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## Tallie9

Not just any gun oil.....Has to be synthetic based (not petroleum based).....Hoppe's Elite Gun Oil is a good choice....Also..Hoppe's Elite Gun Cleaner......I bought these at Walmart


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## SueFerns

I used to buy "banana oil" in a spray can, would spray real heavy on scrap yarn on a cone, then knit several rows. That oils the needles very well and the banana oil doesn't go bad. (smells fairly nice also) :thumbup:


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## colonialcat

my Singer sewing machine oil final ran out and i got 3-1 oil to replace it with works just as well not that i sew much spend to much time on line should get back to making a few new wall hangings for church again and a quilt or so maybe ,


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## chickkie

whatever you do don't use WD40 on your machine. Bellador oil is for all makes of machines.


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## 30Knitter

I would not suggest using sewing machine oil or WD40 or any oil not stated for use on the knitting machine. I have seen a lot of them that were locked up due to the wrong oil being used.


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## sammbo

thank you all for your advice I appreciate all your efforts to get me a result
thanks again


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## brinawitch

Tallie9 said:


> Not just any gun oil.....Has to be synthetic based (not petroleum based).....Hoppe's Elite Gun Oil is a good choice....Also..Hoppe's Elite Gun Cleaner......I bought these at Walmart


how long have you been using gun oil ? how do you go about applying the cleaner and then the oil?


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## Entity

Always apply oil to a rag/cloth and rub over the areas needed. Never pour the oil directly over the KM.


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## 30Knitter

colonialcat said:


> my Singer sewing machine oil final ran out and i got 3-1 oil to replace it with works just as well not that i sew much spend to much time on line should get back to making a few new wall hangings for church again and a quilt or so maybe ,


Bad choice of oil for your knitting machine. Over time your machine will gum up. It's better to use a synthetic oil which will evaporate and leave no residue behind. Also you should oil your machine and carriage after or before every garment. Makes for a smooth running machine.


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## megilham

Just seen an ad for Bellodor oil available from Uppingham Yarns (UK) www.wools.co.uk


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## LeAnn

I remember reading on here before that someone said a oil for guns was usable on machines. Makes sense, they are both metal with moving parts.


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## brinawitch

gun oil smells horrible! just saying...


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## mayellens

I have used various products over the years and have fallen in love with gun oil. ( Studio 560) It cleans and protects from rust.
Thought my spouse was crazy even thinking of it then, I paused and took it under consideration.
First
Gun owers 
do not want their gun to rust!
want very clean barrels
want that bullet not to get stuck on anything in the barrel!
I thought my machine would be in good hands.


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## KateWood

I didn't read all the replies but you can find what you need at theknittingcloset.com the last time I checked. Distinctiveknits.com also has good spray oil and the small bottles of oil for KMs


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## Peggy Beryl

30Knitter said:


> colonialcat said:
> 
> 
> 
> my Singer sewing machine oil final ran out and i got 3-1 oil to replace it with works just as well not that i sew much spend to much time on line should get back to making a few new wall hangings for church again and a quilt or so maybe ,
> 
> 
> 
> Bad choice of oil for your knitting machine. Over time your machine will gum up. It's better to use a synthetic oil which will evaporate and leave no residue behind. Also you should oil your machine and carriage after or before every garment. Makes for a smooth running machine.
Click to expand...

Best to oil BEFORE your sewing/knitting session. Then the oil gets distributed throughout as you sew/knit. Run some scrap yarn/fabric for a few inches to prevent getting oil on your project.
Oiling after your session does not reach all parts of the machine and is more apt to gum up if you should leave the machine unused for an extended period of time. You don't always know when you will return to the machine . . . I found this out the hard way when I was involved in an accident which did not allow me to sew for some MONTHS.


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## Louis Bourque

Allo Peggy, I'm new on this forum and speak French usually. I hope it's not too late to answer you, empressed. 

I urge you not to use steam on the metallic parts for its condensation, depending on how it forms and remains in mechanical assemblies, would induce rust on bearing and joints normally polished and lubricated.

I sudied Aircraft Maintenance a long time ago, and greassy products (lubricants, fuels) were always cleaned with different solvents. 

If you handle volatile solvents, be sure to REMOVE YOUR CONTACT LENSES before, and to wear proper eye, breathing and skin protection. Concretely, safety goggles with lateral shells, butyl or vinyl gloves, and a breathing mask with multi-gas (charcoal) cartrige if you are exposed for a long periods. Please DO NOT USE THEM INDOOR, for fire hazard and health reasons. Please avoid chlorinated, brominated (halogenated) solvents for health reason.

Volatile solvents you could use are turpentine, acetone (solve both water and oils), xylene or naphta. They are quite powerful and will also dissove paint.

Non-volatile solvent you could use are varsol (kerozene) or citrus oils (irritant but not as toxic I suppose). Do not use gazoline, for fire hazard.

Typically, let the parts soak in (non-volatile) solvent, of apply a few drops of (volatile) sovent at intervals into assembly, and let its chemical action work. Non volatile solvent can then be cleaned with 70% rubbing alchool. I recomend this in case (corrosive) additive had been added to the solvent.

I do not recommend automotive or other "looseners" like "Releasall" for refine fixed machines like beautiful knitting machine for they may contain acid and be corrosive.

If you use heat, be sure not to put too much heat for two reasons : 1) to preserve the heat treatment applied on metal to inform its cristal structure (in order to harden its surface or increase its flex resistance, for instance) and 2) to avoid undue thermal dilatation and retraction. 

This dilatation, however, could free jammed parts. It's difficult for me to recommend a temperature but you should stay below annealing (a kind of thermal treatment) temperature for the given material (i.e. stainless steel (which grade) or aluminum (which grade if you know). These data could be found at the ASTM. 150- 200 (two hundred) degree celsius is usually fine.

Thank you, hope that helps.


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## Louis Bourque

Allo Peggy,

I forgot to say something about using heat. Of course, do not use an open flame. 

What I forgot to say is to be careful with pressed-fitted non-moving assemblies, especially if they comprises different material together (cast aluminum and brass sleeve for instance)... For each material has its own, specific thermal dilatation coefficient under a given (shared) temperture. 

These press-fitted assemblies usually involve heating the outer ring and colding inner ring to be pressed. 

Therefore, putting such a press-fitted assembly under heat may burst the assembly if the inner part expends more, under that heat, than the outer ring. Corrosion can induce the same bursting. Whence the importance to avoid acid penetrant lubricant popular in automotive.

Thanks again.


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