# #15-CLOSED - SURPRISE JACKETS WITH purplefi and London Girl



## Designer1234

*WELCOME TO THE SURPRISE JACKET WORKSHOP WITH purpleV and London Girl*

*HOW OUR WORKSHOPS RUN*-please read--

*ALWAYS start reading at the beginning of this workshop, even if you join in late*. 
This is important as sometimes corrections are made there and additions to the information. If you are starting the class, make sure you check from page 1.

First of all - These workshops are NOT KALS where members join in together to solve problems and make suggestions to each other.

These are Workshops, taught by a teacher - or if it a pattern, the teacher is here to help in situations where a pattern is difficult to follow. Others are the teacher's own designs and methods.

*It is important if you are taking a workshop that you read the following*: thanks.

#1-once you have posted on this topic- it means you have automatically joined in.
There is no signup and no cost. If you have posted, all future posts to this workshop will be mailed to you automatically unless you change your setting at the top of this page to 'unwatch' - your watched topics will also be shown at the top of the page where you can see all of them.

#2 PLEASE NOTE: As the teacher has spent a lot of time preparing this workshop and in many cases is teaching her specific way of doing the project -*please don't post links 
unless they are approved by the teacher*. _ Often there is much info out there and if you want to use other methods, or techniques please wait until the workshop is finished -[/u]this includes using U tube[/u] - if you wish to discuss other methods, please pm the teacher before you post about different 
techniques or ways of doing things._. We ask that the teacher posts any different technique after the student contacts them.

If you feel that it might be helpful - don't post it - but instead pm your teacher and she will post it if she thinks it is helpful.

#3- As a matter of courtesy- please let the teacher answer questions about 
the workshop - each teacher will do their best to drop by the workshop at least once a day, _we have found that questions answered by students incorrectly can cause confusion_.

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#5 If you wish to go to another workshop or topic from these pages - go to the top or bottom of the workshop pages and you will see 
KNITTING AND CROCHET PATTERNS WITH DESIGNER1234 (on the same line as the page number) - click on either of them and you will arrive at the link below-

http://www.knittingparadise.com/s-105-1.html

*Never give out the actual workshop link. the above link is the only one that is given to workshop and all other KP members*. _It is necessary as if each workshop used the specific link it would be too confusing - we put on 4 workshops at least every month and as you can see it would mean chaos to try to keep each link available_. so use the main page link above in *ALL cases*.

#6 -One of us (Managers)_will be trimming the workshops at least once a week depending on the amount of information and the number of posts-at the beginning we remove all introductory posts from the students and once the workshop is underway we will trim as necessary_. We will also be highlighting important information. Workshop and all others will remain permanently in this section even after they are closed, and we want to keep only pertinent information. You are welcome to post comments etc. however, we will just delete them after about a week at the most - sometimes less. 
.
Thankyou - designer1234 and prismaticr (Section Mgrs.)

-------------------------------------------------------------- 
We Know you enjoy this workshop !-

*We would like to introduce you to your Surprise Jacket Teachers* !

purple V and London Girl 
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## PurpleFi

*Hi London Girl and PurpleV* here and between us we are going to run the Child and Adult Surprise jacket workshop.

First heres a bit about us. - Between us we have been knitting for over 100 years

! We also crochet, sew, embroider and do many other needlecrafts. _We are both grandmothers and both have children living overseas. We first met on KP last year and since then we have become firm friends, meeting up regularly to shop, eat and of course knit. We have also met up with other KP members in the UK and have had short breaks in York and Edinburgh with them_

We have knitted baby, child and adult surprise jackets and would be happy to share our experiences of making them with you particularly the child and adult sizes
.
_Here is the information about the pattern and the website where you can obtain it_

A-B-C-SJ 
qty:

A-B-C-SJ (Adult, Baby, Child's Surprise Jacket)
Elizabeth Zimmermannn 
SPP 5

"Elizabeth Zimmermann's Baby Surprise Jacket has become near legendary since its conception in 1968. *The jacket is knitted back and forth in garter stitch*, then cleverly folded and completed by weaving the shoulder seams.

This updated pattern includes Elizabeth's original Baby Surprise Jacket instructions, original Adult Surprise instructions, and instructions for the new Child's Surprise jacket (see below).

We've also added row by row instructions for the Baby Surprise Jacket.

Both the Adult and Child's Surprise are based on the construction of the baby jacket. Cully has included numbers to knit the Baby Surprise Jacket at different gauges and a chart to enable you to knit different sizes at different gauges.

The pattern also includes an options section for adding hood, collar and other features such as EZ's Afterthought Pocket and more. Technique instruction is also included".

Three Patterns, 12 pages. $10

http://www.schoolhousepress.com/patterns.htm


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## PurpleFi

This pattern is best knitted on circular needles, the longer the better as you are going to have a lot of stitches on the needle
.
This is what you need to do before you the start the jacket:

1.	Using the yarn, needles and stitch you want to make the jacket in knit a swatch just over four inches wide by about 2 or 4 inches long. _Measure now many stitches there are in four inches and then divide by four_.

If you come out with .25, .50 or .75 of an inches *DO NOT* round it up or down.

2	Take a jacket that you know fits well and lay it flat on the table and measure across the width just under where the sleeves join.

3. Go to this website

http://files.meetup.com/355706/ASJchart.xls

And put your stitches per inch, and width of jumper into the calculator. It will then work out how many stitches you need to cast on and when you need to increase and decrease.

Please note this chart is in inches not centimetres.


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## PurpleFi

Patchworkcat said:


> OMG, I have to cast on 309 stitches! This is gonna take some time. <sigh>
> 
> Jill


But you are casting on from elbow to elbow across the neck, you them start decreasing, then increasing again, but you are doing the jacket all in one. Just make sure you count the stitches well and put markers in. I tend to put them every 20 sts as well as marking the place to increase and decrease as well.


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## PurpleFi

There are various ways you may want to cast on.  I used provisional cast on round the sleeve part so I can pick it up and knit down to the wrist.

_For the rest of the cast on I did a sort of cable cast on but going through the stitch before not behind it, this makes a very open cast on and I find it easier when joining the sleeve seam_.

But make sure you cast on fairly loosely.


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## London Girl

Hi Everybody, welcome to this tutorial, I hope you will have fun with it and have a lovely jacket at the end of it!

I cast on the same way as PurpleV, the crochet cast on is shown on my ASJ in lime green. The sleeve portions will be the two ends of your cast on, i.e. the number of stitches before you decrease and at the other end, after your decrease. PLease let me know if this does not make sense!!


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## PurpleFi

azmoonbugs said:


> I'm in! this is just what I needed to do one form me.
> 
> Thank you very much for pushing me!


We'd rather lead you by the hand than push. You will find that once you get into making the jacket it really is fun to do.


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## PurpleFi

joycegordon said:


> Are you saying to do a provisional cast-on for the 2(K)at the two ends on either side of the markers?


Yes, that is the part you will do for the sleeves. 
See photo. Once you start the shaping it will become clear


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## PurpleFi

azmoonbugs said:


> PurpleV said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> azmoonbugs said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm in! this is just what I needed to do one form me.
> 
> Thank you very much for pushing me!
> 
> 
> 
> We'd rather lead you by the hand than push. You will find that once you get into making the jacket it really is fun to do.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I make the baby jackets all the time. Just was not ready to start a project with 378 cast on stitches without some push!
Click to expand...

IMPORTANT! *I put small stitch markers every 20 sts as I cast on, as well as the ones you need for the decrease/increase mark* (_it might be a good idea to put different colored markers for your increases and decreases - to separate them from the stitch count markers_) Just check you have the right number a few times and then you will have no problems.


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## PurpleFi

Patchworkcat said:


> QUESTION: For my gauge K = 34
> 
> However, the calculation chart indicates that I should cast on 309 stitches. (K * 9). But, 34 times 9 = 306.
> 
> I'm confused already.
> 
> Jill


If you let me have your width measurement for your jacket and your stitches per inch I will check it for you.


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## PurpleFi

Patchworkcat said:


> PurpleV said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patchworkcat said:
> 
> 
> 
> QUESTION: For my gauge K = 34
> 
> However, the calculation chart indicates that I should cast on 309 stitches. (K * 9). But, 34 times 9 = 306.
> 
> I'm confused already.
> 
> Jill
> 
> 
> 
> If you let me have your width measurement for your jacket and your stitches per inch I will check it for you.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Width of jacket = 25"
> Stitches/inch = 4.125 (approx, since I guessing the smidge equals .125)
> 
> Jill
Click to expand...

*Trust the chart 309 is right with stitches 69 and 172 marked for the decrease/increase. I think it must add three stitches one for each inc/dec place and one for centre. Anyway go with the chart, it works*.


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## PurpleFi

Dowager said:


> I don't know how to do a long tail cast on, nor am I experienced with doing measurements or figuring how much yarn I need. The only jacket In have to measure is a "swing" jacket (not knitted) so I'm not sure that measurement will be correct. For a cast on, the only one I know is the "knit-on". Also what is a "provisional" cast-on as mentioned earlier? So I hope you guys were serious about taking us by the hand and leading us! *LOL*


Of course we are serious. If you look om Youtube you can find the provisional cast on method. *However the jacket I did for my grand dsughter just had a loose cast on and then I picked up the stitches to knit the sleeve and you could not see the join*.
What type of yarn do you want to use?

2lbs weight of double knit should be enough. With regard measurements just lay any jumper (sweater) that fits comfortably flat and measure it as I showed in the photo on page 1.

If there is anything else you want help with let us know. We are here to help


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## PurpleFi

Dowger, This is the one I made for my grand daughter. Guess where the sleeve join is? Just below the second double white stripe up.


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## PurpleFi

Patchworkcat said:


> Okay, I'll trust the numbers (and you, of course). I'm still trying to figure out how to do the provisional cast on. Too many videos using crochet hooks, waste yarn, needle cables, etc. Which do you prefer and consider the easiest for a fumble-fingered knitter?
> 
> Jill


_I did the one with waste yarn and a crochet hook. Bit fiddly but once you get started it is quite easy. As I mentioned to Doweger you can do just a loose cast on and them pick up the stitches for the sleeve especially if you are doing garter stitch_.


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## PurpleFi

MiamiKnitter said:


> I have several colors to use - as stripes - and one main color. How will I know when to change colors? I don't have enough of the MC to make a whole sweater. Thanks.


Weigh your main colour and then weight all the other colours together. This will give you some idea of the percentage of the whole the main colour is. That will give you an idea of how much coloured and how much main you can use. But don't worry too much just mix the colours as you like, you can always do the bands, bottom and neck edge in one of the colours of the main depending on wht you have left. Does that make sense?


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## PurpleFi

Patchworkcat said:


> I'm definitely doing garter stitch! Another question: Will the sleeve join be even less noticeable if I add a stripe immediately (or a row or two) after the cast on, or will it really matter? That is, of course, if the provisional defeats me and I end up just casting on loosely.
> 
> Jill


I think if you pick up the stitches on the wrong side of garter stitch you won't see the join. Don't get hung up on the provisional cast on I've only done it on two of the jackets.


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## London Girl

Revan said:


> Oh goodness, I ask too many questions, but to begin can one do any cast on or should it be provisional? Otherwise, Youtube I go. Thank you.


Don't worry Revan, if nobody asked any questions, we wouldn't need the tutorial! :lol: 
*If you want to extend the sleeves when the main part is knitted (they will only be elbow length otherwise) I would recommend castting on in provisional for the first section (before the decreases) and the last section(after 2nd decrease)* _The wide middle section can be long-tail, cable , whatever you prefer_


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## London Girl

Revan said:


> Dowager said:
> 
> 
> 
> O.K. I have got the cast-on done. The width of my favorite sweatshirt is 28". (I am large-busted) My gauge is 5 st per inch. Thus K=46 This gave me a cast-on of 414 stitches. If I am understanding correctly, I place the marker on the first row for decreasing at 92 stitches from each end. Does that make sense or sound correct?
> 
> 
> 
> How did you come up with K = 46, I don't know how to get the correct measurements. My swatch was also 5 sts to inch. I am using sport weight.
Click to expand...

OK, I have checked and*sport weight is the same as 4ply in the UK *so 1000 stitches would appear to be a lot but without knowing what circumfrence you need the finished jacket to be, I can't confirm this. PM me your sample sweater WIDTH and I'll check!


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## PurpleFi

Saroj said:


> Hello. Ok I have my gauze 5 Sts/inch and my bust is 42. How do I get the value for k? There is no formula.


I have had a look at the chart and you need 315 stitches with the markers at 70 and 246. Hope that helps.


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## PurpleFi

Saroj said:


> Thanks. So your k is 35? Can I cast on all the stiches with provisional method or just before and after the markers?


I would just do the before and after the marker stitches with provisional as the rest are from elbow to elbow and you do not need to pick these stitches up as they become the shoulder seam and across the back of the neck.


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## PurpleFi

jmai5421 said:


> I am going to go to you tube to be sure I am doing the provisional cast on right. I have an idea but need to clarify some things. My question is how do you go from provisional to long tail and back to provisional? Do you just stop and have a break in your cast on stitches?
> Thanks
> Judy


Do the provisional in a contrasting piece of yarn, then knit those stitches, carry on with ordinary cast on, I think I did a cable cast on but took the needles through the stitch rather than behind it to make it a looser edge and then finish with another piece of contrast for the next provisional. Knit the provisional and then carry on s normal. Does that make sense? I've attached a photo so I hope that helps too.


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## PurpleFi

mlw2504 said:


> Hello Ladies,
> 
> I will be making the Baby Jacket and I am reading the pattern that says cast on 160 stitches and place marker at 36th and 125th stitches. Is this where the decreases are? Also, if I do the provisional cast on for the sleeves would they be from 1-36 and 125-160? When I do the provisional cast on, do I just continue with the same yarn without cutting it?
> 
> I am new to making sweaters, so I am trying to understand this. I hope you understand what I am trying to ask. My wording may not e the best.
> 
> Mary


You are right about the places for increase and decrease, see my previous answer for the cast on method.


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## PurpleFi

Saroj said:


> I can use the kitchener St to bind off the shoulder seams if I do all the st as provisional cast on? Saroj


Yes you could.


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## London Girl

Saroj said:


> Hello again, now if I want to knit the sweater in St St as you are wearing what will be the number of stitches. Gauze 21 St / 4 inch. Bust 21.


It should be the same number of stitches Saroj but you might want to do a stocking stitch swatch (that's a mouthful!!) to check your gauge comes out the same! if it doesn't, pm me again with new gauge!!


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## London Girl

azmoonbugs said:


> casting on this Morning!


*Don't forget your markers!! Happy knitting*!!!


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## Designer1234

Sherlock said:


> Good morning, although raining from Brittany, NW France.
> I've done my swatches and am ready to go. Hoping to launch with cast on this afternoon.
> 
> Thank you for the clear and concise background information for this workshop. Am looking forward to being part of this global creation of ASJs. I hope you'll be able to tell us (when everyone has registered) how many we are clicking away the Winter (Northern hemisphere) weather.
> 
> Good luck to us all with smiles and Laughter along the way, certain in hte knowledge that any difficulty can and will be overcome with London Girl and Purple VB. 3 cheers for them in advance.


*DESIGNER HERE*: _ PurpleV and London Girl have put hours and hours of preparation into this workshop including many many pictures_. read their instructions carefully, read the pattern instructions carefully and trust what they say. They have each made many of these sweaters and they are working together- we are so lucky that they agreed to do this workshop for us. *Just remember if you run into problems, go back and read all that they have posted. the answers could easily be there*.

_Sometimes it is easier to ask - but often on line, the questions have been answered so refer back- just a tip as online classes are quite different than face to face. you really have to pay attention to the words. It makes it so much easier for you and the teachers_


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## PurpleFi

Wee Brenda said:


> Am looking forward to doing this sweater, have not had the courage to attempt it. Have found it enlightening and slighty confusing reading thru the posts. Guess I need needles in hand to fully comprehend. Would like to thank PURPLEV and LONDONGIRL in advance for making the time and effort available to us hestitant knitters. This will definitely be a learning experience. Like some others I have never done provisional cast on.


Don't worry if it sounds confusing to start with. The first time I made one it took me anbd my husband half an hour to figure out how to sew it up!
=============================
* FOR EVERYONES INFORMATION *

*You are working on the back first*.

_The cast on is the bottom of the sleeves at elbow length up the arm, across the shoulder and back of neck, across the other shoulder down the arm and round the sleeve_.

I know it is hard to understand but have faith in the pattern- it will work out.

*DO NOT get hung up on your K number*,

if you are using the chart we have given you what you need is the following"

1. The number of stitches to cast on

2. Where to put your markers

3. The number of stitches you need to decrease to

4. The nunber of stitches you need to increase to (same as the number you started with)

5. Put 3 inches onto waste yarn

6  How many stitches to increase to between the markers

*It really is as simple as that*!.
========================
:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:


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## London Girl

Grandmaknitstoo said:


> I'm in , too. i have my swatch. It turned out 15 sts to 4 in. Now, i just have to measure my sweater or jacket and find my total inches. *Do I measure across and then double that number*?


ANSWER: * you need the width only to get the number of cast on stitches so do not double it*!


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## London Girl

abc123retired said:


> So, you all started without me....
> If I post this, then I am included? Not sure at all how this workshop thing works.
> I've made BSJ's, but not to size. I'm not sure how to measure gauge on garter stitch. I do okay on stockinette but lose it on any other stitches.
> Also, not sure how you stop the long tail cast on to begin the provisional. The main thing I want to learn here is how to make the sleeves longer.


Anyone who follows it all, dips in from time to time or asks just one question is included. There, you're in!!

_To measure the gauge in garter stitch, just count the 'bumps'! I confess, I had to go back and look at the beginning of my jacket to see how I finished the cast on and it looks like I finished the long tail like the end of casting off (tail through the last loop). Use a different colour for your provisional cast on so it's easy to undo when the time comes! Then, after you have undone your provisional cast on, pick up the resulting loops from the right side and carry on knitting your chosen stripes, decreasing at the edges say, every 4 rows to taper the sleeve to your taste. You can finish with a couple of inches of ribbing to make it fit even better if you wish_.


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## PurpleFi

Patchworkcat said:


> I've been reading over my pattern (and remembering why I've had it for several years, but was hesitant to try knitting it on my own) and on page 5 it says that the very first row will be the "wrong side." Then later on page 6 it says that the "purl-bump" side is the right side. Well, for me I consider the cast on to be the right side because I like the way it looks, so the very first real row is the purl bump.
> 
> Good grief, I've confused myself now. Is this going to be a problem when it comes to working the sleeves longer? I did a loose cast on since I couldn't figure out the provisional cast on.
> 
> Jill


When I first made it I never read the bit that said the first side is the wrong side. I don't think it will cause may problem when it comes to the sleeves.


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## PurpleFi

Dowager said:


> I have the cast-on and the first row done, with the markers placed. Then the instructions on the pattern say, at markers A and B to "do a double decrease at these points every 2nd row." I have two questions. 1. since the row where you place the markers is the "first" row, do you begin you decrease on the 2nd row? 2. Do you begin the decrease on the stitches BEFORE the marker? Or on the stitches AFTER the marker?


Do the decreases on the right side. A and B mark the centre stitch of the double decrease, so you slip the stitch before the marker, knit the next 2 together and then pass the slip stitch over, replacing the marker in front of the decrease again.


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## PurpleFi

Hope you cn see the double decrease and the stitch marker marking the centre stitch.


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## PurpleFi

Patchworkcat said:


> Oh crap! I've been doing the decreases on the WRONG side since the directions say to do them on the very first row (wrong side).
> 
> Do I rip and start over? (pleeease say no ... she begs)
> 
> Jill


*If you are happy with the way the decrease looks then go ahead. You can even do the colour change on the wrong side as this gives a differet look to the rows. Just make sure you do everything on the wrong side. I don't see it being a problem My rule is - if at first you don't succeed - CHEAT!! 
I've just looked at the 'wrong ' side of mine and it is quite acceptable - I guess I could make it reversable*.


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## PurpleFi

Gweniepooh said:


> hi. Gweniepooh here with a question. Just finished swatch and calculating number to cast on.
> 
> This is pretty silly but I ended up needing to cast on 457 stitches and it then says (k*9)
> 
> Throughout the chart it gives a number of stitches ect and the something in parenthesis.
> 
> I don't understand what I am to do with the information in the parentheses.


This k*9 is confusing a lot of people, if you have put your measurements into the chart all you need are the calculations it give you - where to decrease, increase etc. Just make a start, cast on and start the decreases.


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## PurpleFi

For those of you who can't decide how to do your stripes, here are some ideas


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## PurpleFi

and here's some more


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## PurpleFi

and one more.

Hope that helps and doesn't confuse you. Basically anything goes.


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## PurpleFi

Gweniepooh said:


> Another question please: Never have done a provincial cast on and have watched video; seems fairly easy. Once I do the cast on in waste yarn when I begin knitting/decreassing I start in the yarn I intend the sweater to be in is that correct? Sorry to appear so dense and asking what may be obvious to others but I'm truly serious.


*Go back to page 3 and check out my message on casting on*.


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## London Girl

joycegordon said:


> London Girl said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> joycegordon said:
> 
> 
> 
> So... I've cast on and placed the markers and am ready to do row 1. The directions say to place the marker in 2K from each side. The calculator says to place the second marker in 7K+1. Which should I do?
> Joyce
> 
> 
> 
> There should be no difference or hardly. How many stitches from the far end is 7K+1?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> K is 25.
> 7K+1 is 176
> 2K in from edge would make it 175
> 
> I'm guessing that one stitch either way at this point should not make a difference.
> 
> joyce
Click to expand...

Absolutely, you choose!!!


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## London Girl

johannecw said:


> johannecw said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mlw2504 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hello Ladies,
> 
> I will be making the Baby Jacket and I am reading the pattern that says cast on 160 stitches and place marker at 36th and 125th stitches. Is this where the decreases are? Also, if I do the provisional cast on for the sleeves would they be from 1-36 and 125-160? When I do the provisional cast on, do I just continue with the same yarn without cutting it?
> 
> I am new to making sweaters, so I am trying to understand this. I hope you understand what I am trying to ask. My wording may not e the best.
> 
> Mary
> 
> 
> 
> Mary, did you get an answer to this question yet? I am interested because I am trying to do the baby jacket too and I am confused about casting on.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Okay, I found the information about doing the provisional cast on for the first 36 stitches and the last stitches and just doing a loose cast on for the stitches in between. Here I go to learn the provisional cast on. I am doing the baby size with worsted weight yarn and using the gauge for it to come out toddler size, hopefully. If I can't figure out the provisional cast on, would knitted on casting on be considered a loose cast on? Could I use a larger size needle for the cast on row to make it looser and then change to the size for the proper gauge? I hope I don't become a nuisance here with my concerns. Thank you for your help.
Click to expand...

Not at all, it is why we volunteered todo this tutorial! If you know cable cast on, try doing it going through the loop instead of between the loops, that give a slightly loopy (like me!) edge! I think a larger needle would work too!


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## PurpleFi

Dowager said:


> Somehow I missed out on placing a marker at K X 7+1. What is that for? It seems like it would make it look lopsided or something. My K is 46, and I came up with 92 from each end for the decrease. K X 7+1 = 323. Do I put two more markers, one at 323 from each end and do a decrease there to? I know I'm probably over thinking something here, but as I said earlier, I'm so math challenged I can't even balance a checkbook! How I passed high school algebra and geometry I will never know, except that it was back in the days when they thought girls didn't really need to know much math, and weren't good at it anyway, so they gave us extra points for even trying! I actually had an elderly math teacher say that out loud in class!


Don't worry about this K number it is confusing a lot of people, it is just the placing for the second marker which you have already worked out. You only do a double decrease twice on the row. Does this photo help?


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## PurpleFi

janwalla said:


> Im not sure if this has been asked but is it worth doing all the cast on in provisional or is it better just to do the sleeve part?


One of the ladies is going to do provisional cast on for all of it and then used kitchener stitch to join thre sleeve seams. Or you can just you normal cast. I just found that doing the part of the sleeve before and after the decrease in provisional cast on was easier.


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## PurpleFi

*Do the provisional in a contrasting piece of yarn, then knit those stitches, carry on with ordinary cast on, I think I did a cable cast on but took the needles through the stitch rather than behind it to make it a looser edge and then finish with another piece of contrast for the next provisional. Knit the provisional and then carry on s normal*. Does that make sense?

I've attached a photo so I hope that helps too.[/quote]
I'm working on this right now ,but my method is a little different. the you tube video from pink.com said to use a crochet chain and pull up the loop after completeing the row to work it. So, i tried the cable cast on using 1 leg of the stitch instead of going behind it and it was too tight. So , I am in the process of cable cast on behind the stitch and it seems to be working. I will finish with the other provisional and then begin my row. Is that going to give me the correct result for my neckline?[/quote]

The only part of the cast on that is on the neck is the back neck part.


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## PurpleFi

colleenmay said:


> Hi all. I guess I am not a designer at heart. Since I cannot fathom how this makes into a sweater, I am still confused by how I will know when to change colors. I understand that I can do it whenever I want, but if I cannot see in my mind how it will look, I cannot know when to change. Boy, that didn't make sense even to me. I want the sweater to be half of this pink shaded yarn. The other half will be black and purple. So if I start with the pink, how do I know how wide that first stripe of pink should be?


Go back a page or two and see where I have posted some of the stripes that London Girl and I have done and see if it helps.


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## PurpleFi

This is to show you the back of the jacket and where you will start. The cast on is around the elbows and at the top of the back. It also gives you another type of stripe.


----------



## PurpleFi

colleenmay said:


> PurpleV said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> colleenmay said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi all. I guess I am not a designer at heart. Since I cannot fathom how this makes into a sweater, I am still confused by how I will know when to change colors. I understand that I can do it whenever I want, but if I cannot see in my mind how it will look, I cannot know when to change. Boy, that didn't make sense even to me. I want the sweater to be half of this pink shaded yarn. The other half will be black and purple. So if I start with the pink, how do I know how wide that first stripe of pink should be?
> 
> 
> 
> Go back a page or two and see where I have posted some of the stripes that London Girl and I have done and see if it helps.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That didn't really help since they all have so many colors. The one with only two colors looks like a baby jacket.
Click to expand...

The childs one is done in two colours. It really depends if you have the same amount of both colours or more or one. Also do you like wide or narrow stripes.


----------



## PurpleFi

toto said:


> I made the bsj and found the step by step directions were right on; as this was for a baby shower I did not worry about the fit. I would love to make the adult for my son and his wife who live in Korea. She wears an adult small and he a large. Do you think it will ever be posted (as reg sweaters are) In s/m/l for those of us who do not know the correct size needed?


I suggest you go into a clothing store tke your tape measure and measure the width (that is from side to side at the under arm) of the sizes you want to make, then do your swatch and that should be fine.


----------



## PurpleFi

colleenmay said:


> I haven't received my pattern in the mail yet. Should I just cast on my 252 stitches and wait until it arrives? Or can you start me off?


If you have done your calculations and worked out where the markers are going. You can start, just doing a double decrease at each marker. I hope your pattern comes soon as you will need it to check some important points as you go.


----------



## PurpleFi

Jessica-Jean said:


> Andrea in TN said:
> 
> 
> 
> and I have finally gotten here!!! What a day--- and I have been so ready to start. Tomorrow's is another day--- I think I will just read tonight and do the dreaded math in the am.. Does the sweater start at the bottom edge and up both sides? I need to know for color placement thanks
> 
> 
> 
> The 'surprise' factor is that the completed lump of knitting - before the shoulder seams are sewn - does NOT _look_ like any sweater you've ever seen before.
> 
> In fact, I've make two of the BSJ, but one will never be sewn up. I love to plop that handful of garter stitch down on the table in front of a new knitter and let her try to figure out just what the heck it is! Once she's completely lost for an explanation, I hand her the sewn-shoulders one, and she sees!:twisted:
> 
> *Read, and re-read this topic. Study the photos that've been posted in this link and in the projects on Ravelry. With patience, all will be revealed, and you'll be surprised too*!
Click to expand...

Thanks Jessica-Jean, yes ladies it is a *Surprise jacket after all and it really isn't that complicated*. Just follow the instructions and it will work and we will help you with any pitfalls. Happy knitting.


----------



## PurpleFi

Gweniepooh said:


> Gwen - the ladies will be up long before us and will answer you tomorrow morning, likely before you are up.
> 
> Gwen here:
> Well I got my answer earlier about K9; told to ignore and just go ahead and cast on. Well I did and not until spending hour casting on the entire thing in the provisional cast on which I had never done before and start knitting did I realize that only before and after the markers need to be provision and the other a cast on of your choice. I've now read pages 1-15 5x and want to paraphrase my understanding to make sure I am on the right track. Sorry I'm so dense;Dowager said she got the extra bib boob gene instead of the math gene but she was not alone ME TOO!
> 
> Quick paraphrase (Please correct me if wrong)
> 1. cast on up to where 1st marker should be placed using provisional cast on (it eventually will be pulled out)
> 
> 2. Using one of the colors for the actual sweater cast on from after the first marker to before 2nd marker in cast on of your choice LOOSLEY (will NOT be pulled out)
> 
> 3. Cast on after the 2nd marker using provisional cast on again remaining stitches
> 
> 4. Start knitting making the decreases per pattern directions until you reach point of increasing to begin. Decresing is done every other row but always slip the first stitch on EVERY ROW During decreasing and increasing knitting may change colors creating stripes as you desire.
> 
> Again I apologize but I need to make sure I do understand; don't want to have to frog constantly if I can avoid it. Your patience and talents are greatly appreciated.


*You've got it*.


----------



## PurpleFi

Welcome to all you new ladies who have joined us overnight (well it was for us)

*As we have said before this pattern looks a lot more complicted than it is. There is very little to do apart from the odd increase and decrease, the rest is very straightforward knitting. And the fun is working out the stripes, there are so many different ways you can do them. Let your artistic talents flow but most of all have fun*.


----------



## London Girl

johannecw said:


> As I have been reading through more carefully, it has finally worked its way through my brain that you are really teaching us the child and adult sizes. I have started the baby size with the gauge adjustment for toddler sizing. * I have never tried one of these BSJ sweaters before and wanted to start with the smaller one - for a grandchild. My question is this: when I finish this and feel brave enough to try a larger size - child or adult - will you be available for more help if I need it*?
> 
> I know there is a ton of helpful information posted about sizing already, but I am feeling slightly overwhelmed at this point. I am hopeful that by working through the baby jacket I will understand the concept and won't have too many problems making a larger size later on. Thanks.


Hi, thanks for your question. It actually says in the pattern that it is a good idea to knit the baby size first so that, as you say, you can grasp the concept. *This tutorial runs for a month but I am assured that the information will be retained for later starters*. _Just ignore all the adult size stuff for now and enjoy knitting your BSJ_. When it's finished, all will be revealed!!


----------



## PurpleFi

johannecw said:


> Now I have a silly question. I know to slip the first stitch of each row as if to knit. But all of a sudden I am uncertain about the decreasing slip stitches. My tendency is to slip as if to purl, but I wonder if they should be slipped as if to knit because the whole jacket is being done in garter stitch?


Not a silly question at all. I slip mine knitwise, but it really doesn't matter which way you slip it as long as you are consistant.


----------



## PurpleFi

rjazz said:


> I'm interested in following along, to see if I am brave enough to try the adult size...
> I thought the jacket was all garter stitch...some of London girl's pictures seen to have knit panels between the garter ridges?


Come on, give it a try. You are right LOndon Girl's jacket is a mix of garter and stocking stitch and I have done one in stocking stitch whereas the one I am doing now is in garter stitch. The pattern states garter stitch but we are just playing with the orginal pattern. You can do it in wht ever stitch you prefer. It does look very complicted to start as it is knitted in one piece and there are a lot of stitches to cast on. But honestly it is a really easy pattern and we are here to help you through it. If you go back and read our opening instructions alongside the pattern and have faith - it will work out. Then just ask any questions you want and we will help you. Good luck.


----------



## PurpleFi

Jenseydun said:


> What level knitter would you need to be for this class? Beginner, intermediate, advanced? Thanks.


*If you can knit garter stitch and can cope with a few increases and decreases you can do this jacket. But if you are fairly new to knitting I would suggest you do a child's jacket first. This pattern looks complicated but isn't. We are here to guide you through it*.


----------



## PurpleFi

Andrea in TN said:


> I got up this morning and realized that all I had to do was plug in a few numbers to get my CO stitch number. Is 360 right- man that's alot of stitches!!!


It is quite a lot to start with but remember it goes round your arm, up your arm, across your back, down and round the other arm. As long as you have done your swatch and counted correctly you should be fine.


----------



## PurpleFi

*With regard to Designers idea of keeping a note book. I always write down everything I make in a notebook with comments on how it is going and it really is useful for when you want to do another item the same. Also take photos all the way through your work. You'd be amazed how helpful this can be*.


----------



## PurpleFi

Gweniepooh said:


> Have completed cast on. Do I begin the decrease with the very first row or knit a row and then begin with the decreasing every other row? Checked for this question but didn't see an answer.


EZs pattern says that the first row is the wrong side. But I do the first row as the right side and do the decrease on the first and every right side row. Well done with the cast on.


----------



## PurpleFi

johannecw said:


> When we are ready to change colors for stripes, is it better to change colors on an even or odd numbered row? I am doing the sweater all in garter stitch.


If you change colours on one side you will have an smooth change or on the other side a ridge of the colours. Hang on I'll take some photos and post them.


----------



## PurpleFi

OK here's the photos, now you choose which you like best.


----------



## PurpleFi

MiamiKnitter said:


> Question - in the pictures of striping - which one is the right side? I prefer the first picture - so is that the one where the stripe is started on the right side??


Did you follow EZs pattern and start on the wrong side? I didn't so the first one is my right side. I suggest you do a sample swatch with two colours so you can see which side you want to do it on.


----------



## PurpleFi

Jessica-Jean said:


> PurpleV said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Designer, It's 2.30 pm here and I am settling down to knit for the afternoon and keeping my eye on the workshop. In fact should I say I am ripping the front of my surprise jacket as I have decided to make it with a shawl collar and *double fronted* so I need to change the pattern slightly!
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not a knowledgeable seamstress. Google's no help when I ask about 'double fronted'. Definition, please?
Click to expand...

*Double fronted means when you overlap the front by at least 3-4" and have a double row of buttons. Often you get double fronted overcoats*.


----------



## PurpleFi

Isa said:


> Wow! I had posted on another section of knitting-paradise and a responder sent me the link to this workshop and recommended my joining. Why hadn't I seen it sooner?
> 
> I am following schoolhouse press', BSJ/pattern #5 in line-by-line format.
> I was stuck at row 80 and received some help after posting my problem. Now I have knitted the center 90, 18x's as directed and need to pick up 10 stitches plus the 34 I have on a holder. From where do I pick up the 10 stitches? I find the directions a little confusing at this point.
> 
> Also, is this the beginning of the button hole band and edges? I want a different color for the band/edge and was wondering if I should switch colors at this point. Here are rows 80 & 81.
> 
> Row 80:
> K124, turn, k90, turn, k90, turn, k9018x,
> knit up 10 sts from edge of flap, k34
> 
> Row 81:
> K134, knit up 10 sts from edge of flap, k34
> 
> When I figure out how to post pics, I will send one of my progress. I am using a self striping Bernat/#3 weight baby yarn with us#4 circular needles in hopes it will fit NB-3 months. Any help/suggestions are very much appreciated.
> Isa
> 
> Reply Quote Reply Edit Add New Attachment Report Issue


The stitches you need to pick up are down the sides of the centre panel. Yes switch colours for the band here. We are working on the child and adult version here, but it's the same principlel. You are not too late to start a larger one.


----------



## Designer1234

*LADIES! FOR ALL NEW STUDENTS. please go to Page one and read this workshop from the beginning at least twice - there is lots of information there*.

_Always, on all our workshops start from page one even if you start late. This is very very important_.

We now have 69 people who have joined us.


----------



## PurpleFi

Isa said:


> Please confirm my understanding:
> So I knit the 90 stitches, pick up 10 along the side of that section and continue onto the 34 I had on the stitch holder. Then I turn, knit to the other end of the panel, pick up 10 on the other side, and knit the other 34? If I pick up between the ridges, won't I get a small whole?
> 
> Please excuse my denseness and lack of understanding of the pattern. I really do appreciate the help you both are providing and based on all the 14 pages of postings I've read, I am becoming quite excited to begin an adult size for myself. I need to finish this one first before I tackle one for me.
> Q: Looking ahead and at the calculator, is the Excel file savable onto my hard drive for future reference?


Your pick up stitches should be fine. Yes you can save the link to your computer. 
I suggest that you print off your caculations and put them with the pattern.


----------



## London Girl

Hi Gwen, not really a fast knitter, I started my current jacket 2 or 3 weeks ago so that I would remember all the little useful bits to pass on to you! This is as far as I have got, plus the beginning of picking up the sleeves stitches (2nd Picture). As you can see, I have alternated Stocking stitch with colour bands of reverse stocking stitch, this hads had a 'ribbing' effect so it is a little snug at the moment. When I have done the sleeve extensions, I will block it and then, I knbow it will be fine. As an experiment, I partially blocke dthe right front and you can just about see the difference to the other side! I may add a hood.....!

I have only posted this to encourage you all to keep going!!


----------



## PurpleFi

helen4930 said:


> Hello ladies - looks like I'm the first to make a boo boo! I've done 4 decrease rows, now when I counted the stitches on the following non-decrease row, I've ended up with one too many.
> It seems like I perhaps only decreased one stitch somewhere instead of two but I can't see it. Do you think I can just do a K2tog on the non-decrease row at the point where the shaping is taking place or is that going to put the maths of the whole thing out? I hate mistakes and would usually undo it, but it is a mountain of stitches! I haven't yet changed colour, and it's not a light coloured wool, so I think the extra mini-decrease wouldn't really show. What do you think?


If you are only one stitch out it will not matter. Just make sure you are keeping the centre stitch of the decrease consistant. If you can't seee where the mistake is neither will anyone else!


----------



## PurpleFi

joand said:


> That was very confusing for me. If I mark the center stitch of the decrease, I have to remove the marker in order to S1K2togPSSO. I finally decided to place the marker just after the decrease, so I can knit to three sts before the marker and then do my decrease. Am I wrong with this?


Yes you do have to remove the marker, but it was the only way I remembered to do the decrease. As long as you do the decrease it doesn't matter where you put the marker. Just keep the centre stitch running through.


----------



## PurpleFi

Saroj said:


> I have the marker before the dec. I remove the marker do my double dec, place the St back on the left needle and place the marker again in the beg of the stitch before dec. When I was doing my first bsj, I had to rip 3 times before I could grasp the concept. Hope this helps.
> 
> This is not an advice just my my 2 sense


I think we all have our own way of placing the marker, the main thing is remembering to do the decrease and keep the centre stitch correct. It is one of those things that is easy when you know what you are doing. :roll:


----------



## PurpleFi

5mmdpns said:


> A link for those who have not purchased their ASJ pattern. This one is $3.00.
> http://foxyknits.com/adult-surprise-jacket-pattern-p-935.html


Thanks for the link, I have had a look at it seems ok, it just gives the one jacket. I can not see what number of stitches are given or wht yarn it recommends.


----------



## PurpleFi

Gweniepooh said:


> About to change colors for stripe #2. Do you typically cut your yarn or move it up the side?


I did fairly wide stripes so cut the ends each time, you can carry them up but remember that you will be sewing this seam so it goes along the top of the arm.


----------



## PurpleFi

Gweniepooh said:


> I was reading some of the previous questions and now am concerned I may not be doing this correctly.
> When decreasing, I knit until I reach the marker (102 st) slip marker do decrease. When I reach the 2nd marker I do the decrease 3 sts before the marker then move the marker and finish the 102 stitches. Have I been correct?


If you have put your marker at the stitch that is the centre of the decrease take the marker off. Slip the stitch before the marker onto l. needle, replace marker, put sl sts onto r needle, k next 2 stss tog and pass slip st.over. The marker is now in front of the centre st. ready for when you are going to decrease again. This does sound complicated but for me it ws the only way I could be sure of keeping the centre stitch running through. I do hope this makes sense.


----------



## PurpleFi

Gweniepooh said:


> Also, does it make any difference if I do the color change on a decrease row or a straight knit row? Sorry for so many questions.


It doesn't matter as long as you are consistent. Try it on a swatch as it will look different from one side to the other and see which you like best.


----------



## PurpleFi

janwalla said:


> I have a stitch markers with clasps on and i hook it around the stitch that is in the middle and it stays there for a couple of decrease rows it dangles so I always know which is the decrease row too. If you pull it up,the center stitch follows a line so you can see if you have been doing it right.


I use one of those as well as a stitch marker, it is a good idea. If I used just the hook and clasp one I would forget to move it up and do the decrease! Another way is to run a contrasting piece of yarn up through the centre stitch and you will soon see if you are going away from the centre stitch.


----------



## PurpleFi

joand said:


> I totally get it now! It really is important for me keep that center stitch marked. I found a video on YouTube which helped me see it more clearly. Even if I have to take off and replace the marker each time, it's only on 2 of over 200 stitches, so doesn't slow things down too much. I'm off and knitting-- will post a picture as I get further along. Thanks for all the helpful info.


Glad you understand the importance of that centre stitch. Well done on sorting it out and I look forward to seeing a photo.


----------



## Patchworkcat

Okay, I've got a whopping 18 rows done. Here's a pix of the right side. The main color is actually a sage green with the stripes an autumn-y varigated. It's the only worsted weight I have in my stash.

Jill


----------



## Xiang

Hello, this is my jacket, so far. There is another colour change coming in the next row or two, depends how it looks


----------



## PurpleFi

DanaKay said:


> I decided to try a bit of Fair Isle/Stranded on my ASJ. Started and then realized I should have started after and before my markers, as I wish to do have my sleeves go to the wrist and want to put the pattern before the cuffs.
> So will be starting anew.
> I also want to put the pattern at the bottom of the ASJ. It is a new adventure with adding a pattern to this ASJ. Fingers Crossed. May not be the only start anew!:lol:
> I've always just made the plain BSJ, CSJ, ASJ. Using EZ's pithy instructions.
> This one is for my son to match his very warm hat. For myself, I am thinking a lighter weight yarn and playing around with using some lace patterns for spring/summer wear.


Sounds as if you are letting those creative juices flow. Have fun with it.


----------



## PurpleFi

Patchworkcat said:


> I've got oodles of Palette (KnitPicks) in two shades of blue (enough of each for two sweaters, at least) and three balls of Palette in a golden yellow for contrast. Originally, I was going to use Palette for the ASJ, but figured I'd be knitting on it forever. I'm a very slow knitter, so for my first (optimistic, huh?) I'm using worsted weight acrylic (easy wash/dry).
> 
> Jill


Worsted weight sounds fine for your FIRST one, then you can use the other for the next one and then get some more for another one to use up the bits left over from the one before and so on........


----------



## PurpleFi

Pat FP said:


> I have the pattern,yarn,gauge. 3.75. I wear us size 14. I measure 40 bust, 39 wingspan, my favorite sweater is, 23 inches . I went to the spreadsheet referred and put in thes measurements. I am so confused about how many stitches to cast on, I may be to math. Challenged to do this.


The only mesurements you need are the stitches per inch and the width of your favourite sweater.


----------



## PurpleFi

PurpleV said:


> Pat FP said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have the pattern,yarn,gauge. 3.75. I wear us  size 14. I measure 40 bust, 39 wingspan, my favorite sweater is, 23 inches . I went to the spreadsheet referred and put in thes measurements. I am so confused about how many stitches to cast on, I may be to math. Challenged to do this.
> 
> 
> 
> The only mesurements you need are the stitches per inch and the width of your favourite sweater.
Click to expand...

Looks like you need 259 sts to cast on


----------



## PurpleFi

Andrea in TN said:


> joand said:
> 
> 
> 
> That was very confusing for me. If I mark the center stitch of the decrease, I have to remove the marker in order to S1K2togPSSO. I finally decided to place the marker just after the decrease, so I can knit to three sts before the marker and then do my decrease. Am I wrong with this?
> 
> 
> 
> me too hope we are right
Click to expand...

The main thing is to keep the centre stitch running through the decrease.


----------



## London Girl

Good morning all from a bright and sunny - but c-c-c-cold London!!
I came across this on the old pre-tutorial thread and thought it might come in handy. Thanks Saroj!!

The school house response to question about the pattern

The Spun Out is a single legal size sheet (printed both sides) with instructions for the Adult on it. The ABCSJ contains instructions for the Adult, Baby and Child's versions of the sweater. The Baby is written line by line.

I think I should get the spun out version as i do not need the childs and baby version of it. I have that in the book.

pl advise. thanks!

SO1 - http://www.schoolhousepress.com/spunout.htm
SPP5 - http://www.schoolhousepress.com/patterns.htm#abcsj
If people haven't received their patterns, please have them call me or email me. We try to get our orders our within two days after they are placed. We are open Monday through Friday.

Happy knitting,

Tami 
Schoolhouse Press
6899 Cary Bluff
Pittsville, Wisconsin 54466
800-YOU-KNIT Order Line
715-884-2799 Question Line
715-884-2829 Fax Line 
www.schoolhousepress.com


----------



## PurpleFi

jvoel said:


> I am still confused about the second place where you decrease.. Do the decreases go toward each other forming a large upside down "V". The way I've been doing it, they are both going in the same direction. It doesn't seem right to me. It seems that they should be going toward each other.


HerE is a photo of what you work should look like after few rows decreasing. Don't forget it is a double decrease so you are forming a right angle.


----------



## PurpleFi

jmai5421 said:


> I am restarting with the cast on again. I will use a coiless pin or just a scrap of contrasting yarn tied loose to a stitch on the front so I can see at a glance which side is the right side and also the increase side. At least that is what I usually do


Good idea. I put a coloured plastic safety pin at the beginning of the right side so I know which side I am on.


----------



## JoyceKnits

I'm not sure I'm doing the decreases correctly. Could you please tell me what I'm doing wrong? And could you post a close-up photo of what they should look like? Thanks. 
Joyce


----------



## PurpleFi

joycegordon said:


> I'm not sure I'm doing the decreases correctly. Could you please tell me what I'm doing wrong? And could you post a close-up photo of what they should look like? Thanks.
> Joyce


*Just before the pink colour change it looks like you may have gone off centre with the decrease*. 
Here iare 2 photos, one of the right side and one of the reverse.

*You could try running a contrasting thread up through the centre stitches to keep you on the line*.


----------



## London Girl

joycegordon said:


> When you slip the first stitch of a decrease, do you slip it knitwise or purlwise. I wonder if that's my problem. I do believe I've kept the center stitch constant, but each decrease looks different from yours.


It doesn't matter as long as you do it the same every time!


----------



## London Girl

Gweniepooh said:


> And you are slipping the stitch BEFORE the marker or the stitch with the marker?
> 
> 
> 
> Gweniepooh said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes that makes it clearer for me. thank you!
> 
> 
> 
> London Girl said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gweniepooh said:
> 
> 
> 
> *QUESTION IN RED*I was using the curricular markers, slipped the 1st marker once I reached it, did the decrease and then when I got to the 2nd marker did the same. This was wrong?
> 
> I thought if I slipped the marker and did the decrease the same way each time it would be lined up correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> Gwen, sorry you had to start over. PurpleV and I have both found it better to mark the actual centre stitch of the decrease with some sort of marker that can actually go through the stitch. Yes, it needs to be taken out every time you decrease but then you just pop it back onto the single stitch you are left with after you have passed the slip stitch over. Hope this helps!!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Slip the stitch before the marker, k2tog, psso then pop your marker back on the stitch you are left with! By George, I think you've got it!!!


----------



## PurpleFi

Gweniepooh said:


> Yes that makes it clearer for me. thank you!
> 
> 
> 
> London Girl said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gweniepooh said:
> 
> 
> 
> *QUESTION IN RED*I was using the curricular markers, slipped the 1st marker once I reached it, did the decrease and then when I got to the 2nd marker did the same. This was wrong?
> 
> I thought if I slipped the marker and did the decrease the same way each time it would be lined up correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> Gwen, sorry you had to start over. PurpleV and I have both found it better to mark the actual centre stitch of the decrease with some sort of marker that can actually go through the stitch. Yes, it needs to be taken out every time you decrease but then you just pop it back onto the single stitch you are left with after you have passed the slip stitch over. Hope this helps!!
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

It does become easier the more you do. Just take your time.


----------



## London Girl

I had this from Janwalla, thanks for that! It is actually for the baby jacket but does show how to do the decreases and keep them in line very clearly!


----------



## London Girl

*I had this query from Naneast*
I've completed up to the INCrease part. I do not understand the following from the book topic SPUN OUT #1, SUMMER 1981 EZ'S ASJ: "When you are back at the number of sts you started with (9 x [K]), you are at the neck sides, C and D. Put 3" worth of sts on pieces of wool at either end and continue working the increases at A and B until the center-section (between A and B) is 6 x [K] - or twice the wanted width of sweater." Can you walk we through this because when I did it, the number of sts didn't make sense. Thanks, Nan[/quote]

Answer:_You need to have the information from the calculation chart. After the increases have bought you back to your original cast on stitch number, and you have put 3" worth of stitches on some scrap yarn on either side, carry on with the increases in the same places until you have 2/3(6xK) of your original cast on stitches in the middle, between where you have been decreasing/increasing. Don't know if that is any clearer, I sure hope so_!!


----------



## PurpleFi

colleenmay said:


> I have a couple of questions. If I am planning to do my jacket in stockinette:
> 1) Do I purl the first row since it is supposed to be the wrong side?
> 2) Should I use the suggested decrease?
> 3) Did you do the decreases on the knit or the purl rows?


The one I did in stocking stitch. I did right side first and I did a slip 1, k2tog, psso decrease on the right side as I like the way it looked.


----------



## London Girl

*******IMPORTANT********
Please do not pm us with questions as the answers may be useful to other pupils and it will save your poor teachers from having to repeat the answers!!_ However, you are welcome to pm us if you have information which might be helpful for us to pass on_! Thank you!


----------



## PurpleFi

Naneast said:


> London Girl said:
> 
> 
> 
> I had this query from Naneast
> I've completed up to the INCrease part. I do not understand the following from the book topic SPUN OUT #1, SUMMER 1981 EZ'S ASJ: "When you are back at the number of sts you started with (9 x [K]), you are at the neck sides, C and D. Put 3" worth of sts on pieces of wool at either end and continue working the increases at A and B until the center-section (between A and B) is 6 x [K] - or twice the wanted width of sweater." Can you walk we through this because when I did it, the number of sts didn't make sense. Thanks, Nan
> 
> 
> 
> Answer: You need to have the information from the calculation chart. After the increases have bought you back to your original cast on stitch number, and you have put 3" worth of stitches on some scrap yarn on either side, carry on with the increases in the same places until you have 2/3(6xK) of your original cast on stitches in the middle, between where you have been decreasing/increasing. Don't know if that is any clearer, I sure hope so!!
Click to expand...

Here is my information from the calculation chart:
Width = 18"
Gauge = 18.5 sts/4" = 4.6 sts/inc
K = 27.6
CO = 27.6 x 9 = 248 sts
MK = K x 2 = 55 and 194
Dec = Kx 5 = 138 sts
Inc = kx 9 = 248 sts
Put 3" on both ends = 14 sts+14 sts = 28 sts on a piece of wool
Now it has 220 sts on the needle*
By the book: continue working the increase until the center-section is 6x K ( 165 sts)* or twice the wanted width of the sweater. Continue on this center stitches only, leaving the end sts (E-A and F-B) on pieces of wool.
While typing this out, I think I got it! I just want you to see that I understand what I'm doing. It's like talking out loud that you can see clearer. Thank you.[/quote]

Glad you were able to work it out. If you look at the diagram that EZ gives in her pattern. You are putting the stitches for the front band on pieces of wool. If yoy lay your knitting on the table and put the sleev seams together you will see the shape it is going to take.


----------



## PurpleFi

LoriRuth said:


> London Girl said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gweniepooh said:
> 
> 
> 
> *QUESTION IN RED*I was using the curricular markers, slipped the 1st marker once I reached it, did the decrease and then when I got to the 2nd marker did the same. This was wrong?
> 
> I thought if I slipped the marker and did the decrease the same way each time it would be lined up correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> Gwen, sorry you had to start over. PurpleV and I have both found it better to mark the actual centre stitch of the decrease with some sort of marker that can actually go through the stitch. Yes, it needs to be taken out every time you decrease but then you just pop it back onto the single stitch you are left with after you have passed the slip stitch over. Hope this helps!!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> So are you saying you slip the marker over the ONE STITCH so it is hanging off the stitch and not on the knitting needle?
Click to expand...

Yes, but it needs to be the type of marker that you can keep taking on and off. I made mine from necklace clasps with some beads attached.


----------



## PurpleFi

Here's my stitch markers


----------



## PurpleFi

Grandmaknitstoo wrote:
I hope you can advise me as to what to do to correct my problem. I was reading the asj instructions and it said to do decrease rows everyother row. So, instead of reading the bsj pattern (which I have made 2 of), I commenced with the purl side first( note: I call this the purl row even though it is garter stitch because when I do my double decreases I *slip 2 stitches knit wise and knit the 3rd stitch and then pass the slipped stitches over*)And then did my decreases on the 2nd row. Natuarlly, this is throwing of my stitch count at the increase row and it also is throwing off my gauge. I was wondering if I should just do a decrease row, on the purl side, before I get to row 11 and start my increases, or will that be effective. I can't foresee the problem it may create. I have been knitting only 2 1/2 yrs. And I 'm enxperienced it fixing things. I have 8 rows completed. 1,3,5,. & 7, are in garter with a purl for the marked stitch on the last 3 and 2,4,6, & 8 are my decrease rows. Please tell me how I can correct this without throwing off everything. I don't want to start again ,if I don't have to. T Grandma knits too.

*ANSWER*The double decrease is done by slip 1 (either k or p wise)k2tog, psso. This is the way EZ recommends.

That was not my question. The decrease is fine . I got it from the schoolhouse press pattern. That is not the problem. The problem is I failed to decrease on the 1st row. Then proceeded to decrease on the 2nd row. My decreases are not on the correct rows as stated in the pattern. How can I compensate for that, without messing up my pattern? That is my question. Thank you for your help.

As long as you decrease on alternate rows you will be fine. Just be consistent.

My concern is that the row 11 instuctions are increase row and decrease row. my row 11 will not be a decrease row. should I make my increases on row 12?

Once you have done enough decreases as per your calculation chart then you start the increases back to the number of stitches you started with and as long as you do the decreases and increases every other row it will be fine.


----------



## PurpleFi

Grandmaknitstoo said:


> PurpleV said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grandmaknitstoo said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PurpleV said:
> 
> 
> 
> Grandmaknitstoo wrote:
> I hope you can advise me as to what to do to correct my problem. I was reading the asj instructions and it said to do decrease rows everyother row. So, instead of reading the bsj pattern (which I have made 2 of), I commenced with the purl side first( note: I call this the purl row even though it is garter stitch because when I do my double decreases I *slip 2 stitches knit wise and knit the 3rd stitch and then pass the slipped stitches over*)And then did my decreases on the 2nd row. Natuarlly, this is throwing of my stitch count at the increase row and it also is throwing off my gauge. I was wondering if I should just do a decrease row, on the purl side, before I get to row 11 and start my increases, or will that be effective. I can't foresee the problem it may create. I have been knitting only 2 1/2 yrs. And I 'm enxperienced it fixing things. I have 8 rows completed. 1,3,5,. & 7, are in garter with a purl for the marked stitch on the last 3 and 2,4,6, & 8 are my decrease rows. Please tell me how I can correct this without throwing off everything. I don't want to start again ,if I don't have to. T Grandma knits too.
> 
> The double decrease is done by slip 1 (either k or p wise)k2tog, psso. This is the way EZ recommends.
> 
> That was not my question. The decrease is fine . I got it from the schoolhouse press pattern. That is not the problem. The problem is I failed to decrease on the 1st row. Then proceeded to decrease on the 2nd row. My decreases are not on the correct rows as stated in the pattern. How can I compensate for that, without messing up my pattern? That is my question. Thank you for your help.
> 
> As long as you decrease on alternate rows you will be fine. Just be consistent.
> 
> My concern is that the row 11 instuctions are increase row and decrease row. my row 11 will not be a decrease row. should I make my increases on row 12?
> 
> Once you have done enough decreases as per your calculation chart then you start the increases back to the number of stitches you started with and as long as you do the decreases and increases every other row it will be fine.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm referring specifically to row 11 increases where it states to knit 3 and increase , 9 times and then knit the last 2. this is done on an increase row. Since my increse row will be row 12 will that work? or will it throw me off when I get ready to sew it up?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> What jacket are you doing. Are you using EZs adult pattern?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes, but I'm following the bsj, with the new calcutations. I'm not sure how to incorporate the new figures. Is ther a better way?
Click to expand...

*You do not need to do the increases across the row for the adult jacket. You just keep going with the decreasing until you have the stitches given on your chart. It is only the baby jacket that counts the rows, so don't worry counting rows just keep a check on the number of stitches. Hope that is clear now*.


----------



## Xiang

PurpleV said:


> Xiang said:
> 
> 
> 
> Good morning all, I am now ready for another day of knitting. I am now moving towards the next striped pattern :thumbup:
> 
> 
> 
> Good morning Speedy, thought you might have had it finished by now!!!
Click to expand...

No, not quit, my eyes wouldn't stay open long enough :-( had to go to bed. :shock:

Here is the progress report :roll:


----------



## PurpleFi

Gweniepooh said:


> Now that I've cast on correctly and am stitching making increases correctly I want to go ahead and ask this question
> 
> Cast on 457 stitches
> Mark st 102 and 356
> Decrease until 254 stitches........does this mean I keep doing the decreaseing at the markers until I have only 254 stitches on the needles in total? I know this may seem obvious but I just want to be sure. Obviously I have quite a while before I am at the 254.


Yes keep decreasing at the two marked points until you get to 254 sts and guess what - you then have to increaser back to your starting number of stitches. But you are doing the whole jacket in one.
One things that might help you is to mark the centre stitch and then count out from the centre and mark every 20th stitch to the decreases. That way you will not have to keep counting all those middle stitches and also you can keep a check that you are doing your decreases correctly by just counting up to the nearest marker. Happy knitting.


----------



## azmoonbugs

Gweniepooh said:


> Here's what is causing me problems. I have my markers placed correctly. There was a post (I don't think by the instructors) that you moved the markers after each decrease. Well of course I was using the curricular markers, slipped the 1st marker once I reached it, did the decrease and then when I got to the 2nd marker did the same. This was wrong?
> 
> I thought if I slipped the marker and did the decrease the same way each time it would be lined up correctly.
> 
> This is why it is so important that only the teachers post instructions. It confuses some folks like me.


 If you have a marker on the needle between the stitches, you have to move it before you do a decrease because the first decrease stitch will be the stitch BEFORE the marker to keep the center of the 3 stitches in line with each other. That is why EZ says to mark the STITCH which is the middle of the 3 stitch decrease. If you like the marker on the needle you can use a flexible stitch marker like I do (a piece of yarn) and grab it with the right needle and bring it around back of the work to the right needle and then do the decrease.


----------



## Saroj

how do i post pictures of the asj progress knitting in this secction?


----------



## PurpleFi

Andrea in TN said:


> well I got to row 7 and decided I would rather ask and frog now rather than row 80. I think I am decreasing the wrong way. Nothing new to this leftie. I hope I can ask this clear- do you decrease the stitches after the marked stitch, or before? I have a marker after the marked stitches and am knitting the 3 decreased stitches from right before the marker. I see now that this causes the decreased stitches to come from the first 2K on one end and from the middle 200 st section on the other end . I hope this is clear--- in another words one end of the 2K is getting smaller and the other end has the middle section getting smaller. Should I move the first marker so that it is before the decrease and draw from the middle section too or should I move the other marker so I am drawing from the last 2K for my decreases? Is this clear as mud?


Whether you are left handed or right the decrease should work the same.
*The marked stitch is the centre of your decrease and stays constant all the way through*. You decrease a stitch either side of this centre stitch every other row. _The way the pattern says is slip 1 (the stitch before the marker), knit the next 2 sts tog (the marked and one and the one after it) pass the slip stitch over_
.

IMPORTANT!

*You decrease two stitches every decrease (ie 4 sts per row) So the stitches at either end of the row decrease by 1 and the centre part by 2*
. 
I hope that makes it clear. Here's a pcture again to show the shape you are aiming for.


----------



## London Girl

jmai5421 said:


> Andrea in TN said:
> 
> 
> 
> well I got to row 7 and decided I would rather ask and frog now rather than row 80. I think I am decreasing the wrong way. Nothing new to this leftie. I hope I can ask this clear- do you decrease the stitches after the marked stitch, or before? I have a marker after the marked stitches and am knitting the 3 decreased stitches from right before the marker. I see now that this causes the decreased stitches to come from the first 2K on one end and from the middle 200 st section on the other end . I hope this is clear--- in another words one end of the 2K is getting smaller and the other end has the middle section getting smaller. Should I move the first marker so that it is before the decrease and draw from the middle section too or should I move the other marker so I am drawing from the last 2K for my decreases? Is this clear as mud?
> 
> 
> 
> Clear to me as I am a lefty too. I will be anxious to hear from the teachers tomorrow. I hope I am doing it right. I go to one stitch before the marker on the short side, slip the marker, k2tog which would be on the long side, remove the marker psso and replace the marker. I do the same when I come to the second marker and slip a stitch before the marker which would be from the long side, slip the marker, k2tog from the short side, remove the marker, psso and replace the marker.
> I have been wondering the same as you, knitting the opposite of everyone else. We will get our answer tomorrow morning as the teachers are sleeping now.
Click to expand...

That sounds as though you are doing it correctly, your knitting should be forming a nice sharp corner now!


----------



## London Girl

Saroj said:


> Hello teachers, hope you had a great day in London socializing. I am almost done with decrease. I am off by 2 Sts. I should have had either 321 or 325 but I casted 323 as per instructions. I am suppose to decrease to 179. Now my question is should I dec to 177 or 181? One less dec or one more dec I can't decide. I know it will not make any difference 2 Sts here and there or one dec here and there. Your opinion will be greatly appreciated.


I agree with you Saroj, it won't really make any difference.


----------



## London Girl

loveyarn said:


> Ok no more lurking! I took my
> measurement 20" and counted my purl stitches which is 16 divided
> 
> by 5 and came up with 3.333. However, for some reason can't put my numbers in. Help please. I've read the pattern and am totally confused so once I get the Info for casting on, etc. will just jump in and see what happens. Wish me luck.


OK, I have your cast on at 200, mark stitches at 44 and 156, decrease to 111, then increase to 200, then put 3" of stitches on scrap yarn at each end and continue increasing until you have 133 stitches between the markers. Finish jacket as per pattern. Hope that helps


----------



## London Girl

jmai5421 said:


> I am starting over with another ball of yarn. I am still confused with the decreases.
> If I knit to one stitch befor the first marker, slip that stitch and the marker. Then I knit the next two together, slip the slipped stitch over the stitch from the knit 2 together and then replace my marker. Do I put the marker and then the psso stitch or afterwards. If I place the marker afterwards my stitches before the marker stay the same, in this case 67 and I have lost after the marker.
> Then when I knit on to the second marker and do the same, I have lost the stitches on the short side.
> I am slilpping the marker. Is that right? I am going to post a picture tonight but will still try it again in a different way. I am going to check out you tube to see if there are any pictures for decreasing on a bsj.
> Hope you enjoyed your get together and are having a nice rest.
> Thanks for your help.
> Judy


Hi Judy, sorry this is giving you stress! Your marker should be after the number of stitches given. When you get to the stitch before the marker, slip it, k2tog and psso Then mark the stitch that is left. You will find it easier if you have an open marker that you can put _through_ this stitch and pop it out every time you decrease and then pop it back again. Does that help?


----------



## PurpleFi

Good evening we are back from our day in London. Thought you might like to see the yarn department of John Lewis one of the big department stores in Oxford Street.


----------



## PurpleFi

darowil said:


> London Girl said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> darowil said:
> 
> 
> 
> If done in stocking stitch won't the edges roll? And I've not got enough of an idea to know which bits need to be done in garter stitch to avoid this.
> I'm hoping to borrow the book tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> The only unfinished edges become your sleeves seam ans sewing them stop the curling. I would recommend either moss or garter stitch for the last section which makes up the bottom edge and button band.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks- I had figured out he sleeves but wan't sure where the rest was. As I haven't started yet I think that the end is a way away yet (and I won' tbe doing only this thats for sure!). Its a wonder I ever fisnihs anything. Moss sounds good.
> 
> That is the dark part of yours is it? Does that do the neck too?
Click to expand...

Here is a photo of my stocking stitch jacket with the cuffs, bottom, front and neck band done in moss stitch


----------



## PurpleFi

Jessica-Jean said:


> PurpleV said:
> 
> 
> 
> Good evening we are back from our day in London. Thought you might like to see the yarn department of John Lewis one of the big department stores in Oxford Street.
> 
> 
> 
> (wistfully sighing) I remember when _our_ department stores used to have walls and aisles of yarn like that photo. :-( Nice yarns too.
> 
> Glad you enjoyed yourselves! :-D
Click to expand...

It's a huge yarn department, you can only see about a tenth of their yarn. We also had a very nice lunch at our favourite French Restaurant near Carnaby Street.


----------



## PurpleFi

jmai5421 said:


> PurpleV said:
> 
> 
> 
> Do you add the neck, sides and bottom band separate by picking up stitches or something. I have another color to do this. I tried reading the pattern but it doesn't always make sense.
> 
> 
> 
> I did the fronts and back band in one. Then I picked up the neck and did that last.
Click to expand...

That is what I want to do. I am curious as to how you attached it if you did it all in one. Did you use intarsia for the band in the front, or when you knit the jacket you have all of the front band on your needles so you can just knit it.[/quote]

The front band and the bottom are done as part of the jacket with increases to make the corner. It will all become clear when you get to that point.


----------



## PurpleFi

DanaKay said:


> PurpleV said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DanaKay said:
> 
> 
> 
> WOW! What a yarn store! Really don't know, but do we even have a store this size here stateside?
> 
> Wondering PurpleV, you mentioned putting a shawl collar on your jacket. Are you doing that using short rows?
> 
> 
> 
> I think so but I haven't worked out the pattern yet - at the moment it is a jumble of wool somewhere in the dark recesses of my brain :roll: When I get to that point I will try and write it down.
> Are you thinking of doing one? If you are let me know as you need to adapt the pattern slightly on the increase section.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Not at this time, I was just curious as to how you might go about it for future perhaps.
> I am still trying to decide this Fair Isle issue on this one. Trying to visualize how it will go if I put it on the inside the marker stitches on the upper decrease section.
> Keeping in mind this is for a man,I am thinking I just want to put the FI before the cuffs on the longer sleeves and around the bottom before the pick-up for the button band(thinking zipper though), then adding a collar and put the FI on it to sort of bring it all together.
> It would be so much easier if I had one I made here to refer to, but they are all gifted out. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

What I do when trying to decide how to do a sweater is to draw one in my notebook (in pencil) and play around with the ideas on paper. If you are thinking of putting a zip in you will need to shorten the sides back so they don't overlap. Just lay the jacket flat and keep measuring it to get the right width so the edges just meet. Let me know if you need more help.


----------



## Omeghan

Here my progress so far. I am a very slow knitter. 
Child size SJ. The grey is my provisonal cast on for sleeves.


----------



## PurpleFi

Patchworkcat said:


> I have decided that knitting the ASJ in the worsted weight is going to make up into a very heavy jacket. Since I live in Florida, I'd only get to wear it maybe twice a year. That simply doesn't justify the knitting time when it's just for me. Guess that means I'll be starting over using a lighter weight yarn. I'm soooo slow knitting, it's going to take me forever, but I think I'll be much happier with the finished project. Now to settle on which yarn to use. That may take a long time. I'll still be watching this workshop closely as I ponder my options here.
> 
> Jill


Glad you hadn't goot too far with the thicker yarn. Xiang is doing hers in 2 ply and I'm doing an aran one. That's the beauty of this pattern, you can use whatever thickness of yarn you want. Don't worry about taking a long time to make it. Even if you need help after the workshop closes we are still here on KP.


----------



## PurpleFi

I thought I would show you a few photos of how the jacket is shaping up once you get to the end of the decreasing and start the increasing.

Hope this gives you some idea of what you are aiming for.


----------



## PurpleFi

Me too. I also like the idea of using pewter frogs for the closure. That is the one in your avatar. I am going back in this thread to check it closer. Is it the purple one that you posted?[/quote]

Here's a close up of the frogs. I did it edge to edge but you can overlap it. I only did 3 at the top, but no reason why you can't put them all the way down. And one of the advantages is - NO BUTTONHOLES.


----------



## PurpleFi

Saroj said:


> Good morning teachers. My dec is done and now I am starting the Inc. Do I do couple of rows without any Inc? My bsj had two rows of plain knitting between dec and Inc. I am still waiting for the pattern so I am relying on your response


The pattern does not say do any plain rows, but I would think that if you wanted to make the sleeve a little deeper a few rows would help.


----------



## PurpleFi

Thanks for that DanaKay.
If that figure is correct, cast on 240 sts, mark 53 and 188; dec until 133 sts, inc to 240 sts, put 3" worth of sts on spare wool. Inc between the markers to 160 sts.


----------



## Gweniepooh

Here's the progress. Moving along slowly but surely.


----------



## PurpleFi

colleenmay said:


> Question: I know London Girl used different types of yarn in her blue jacket. I am using pink/purple variegated, white, black, all ww, and want to add some purple. The only purple I have is a bulky size. In your opinion, would that add interest or would it add more problems than it is worth. I am doing my jacket in stockinette.


As the purple is a bulkier yarn it will look thicker than the rest, I think it would make it look rather good adding some texture. I would keep the purple stripes on the narrow side so as not to distort the piece.


----------



## PurpleFi

colleenmay said:


> Also, I am reading that adding a few rows between decreases and increases will increase sleeve length. Is there any way to make the sleeves shorter????? The way I am picturing it now, it is neither short sleeved or three-quarter sleeves. Kind of inbetween. Or is it one of those?


The way it is at the moment it is to the elbow, but you can pick up the edge and knit down to the wr.st. To make it shorter I suggest you fold back a cuff and stitch it in place.


----------



## London Girl

colleenmay said:


> Also, I am reading that adding a few rows between decreases and increases will increase sleeve length. Is there any way to make the sleeves shorter????? The way I am picturing it now, it is neither short sleeved or three-quarter sleeves. Kind of inbetween. Or is it one of those?


This is the ASJ I am currently knitting, the sleeves were just above elbow length, as in this picture. When I have blocked the sleeves they will be a little longer but that is only because I have incorporated the reverse stockinette which has made a aslightly 'rib' effect.


----------



## JoyceKnits

In looking at the directions for the umpteenth time, I noticed that on page 4, where she is talking about the baby jacket, there is a note and diagram about placing stripes. It helped me to figure out where the stripes will finally appear.


----------



## PurpleFi

Linda C wrote:

London Girl, I'm having a tough time with my brain today, trying to figure out where to start my stripes. Using the picture of your sweater, where is the beginning of your jacket, or where is your cast on? The pattern is so confusing, I can't tell if it's the neck edge, or the underarm. I'm feeling a bit "be-rattled". If you could explain which color is your first stripe, I think that would help clear my fog. I've just knitted a few rows, but want to be sure of where I would like my stripes. 
Also, in earlier posts, someone asked about knitting extra rows between the decreases and increases--to make sure I am understanding that correctly, does that help with the length of the sleeves, because I DO want my jacket to have long sleeves. Thank you both for all the pointers and help, and sorry my brain feels so dense this evening.[/quote]

Purplev Answered-

Firstly if you go back 4 or 5 pages you will see that I have posted some photos of what the jacket will start to look like after the decreasing. It starts at the top - across the neck and down and round the arms. So you will be working on the back and top sleeves to start with. To make the jacket sleeves longer you will have to pick up from the elbow and knit down to the wrist.
I do hope this is clear, I agree it is very confusing when you first start. But let us iknow if you need more help, that is what we are here for.


----------



## London Girl

Linda C. said:


> London Girl said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> colleenmay said:
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I am reading that adding a few rows between decreases and increases will increase sleeve length. Is there any way to make the sleeves shorter????? The way I am picturing it now, it is neither short sleeved or three-quarter sleeves. Kind of inbetween. Or is it one of those?
> 
> 
> 
> This is the ASJ I am currently knitting, the sleeves were just above elbow length, as in this picture. When I have blocked the sleeves they will be a little longer but that is only because I have incorporated the reverse stockinette which has made a aslightly 'rib' effect.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> London Girl, I'm having a tough time with my brain today, trying to figure out where to start my stripes. Using the picture of your sweater, where is the beginning of your jacket, or where is your cast on? The pattern is so confusing, I can't tell if it's the neck edge, or the underarm. I'm feeling a bit "be-rattled". If you could explain which color is your first stripe, I think that would help clear my fog. I've just knitted a few rows, but want to be sure of where I would like my stripes.
> Also, in earlier posts, someone asked about knitting extra rows between the decreases and increases--to make sure I am understanding that correctly, does that help with the length of the sleeves, because I DO want my jacket to have long sleeves. Thank you both for all the pointers and help, and sorry my brain feels so dense this evening.
Click to expand...

This is a picture of the finished extended sleeve. You can see that I have knitted on from the green stripe that forms a right angle. I would not attempt any other method of lengthening the sleeves, it took EZ years and years to come up with this method and I guess if there had been a better way, she would have found that too!!! :lol:


----------



## Omeghan

Going to post a pic in a sec. I am really discouraged with my sweater. Its lovely, but I think it wouldn't fit a sparrow.


----------



## PurpleFi

Omeghan said:


> 14 inches x 3.25 ga.
> 
> And I verified ga. is ok
> 
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Cast on 137 stitches
> 
> Mark stitches 30	and 107
> 
> Decrease until 76 stitches


It all looks ok. Suggest you fold it as I have done with mine - photo on previous page and you can then measure the width of jacket.


----------



## PurpleFi

PurpleV said:


> PurpleV said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pat FP said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmm.. I thought I was doing that, should the decreases be out side( toward the ends) or inside toward the center, it seems I have the first decreases on the end before marker for 58 stitches and the decreases at the 202 marker seem to be in the middle. Does this explain my Delma?
> 
> 
> 
> Not quite sure what you mean. There are 3 stitches involved in a decrease. The marker should be on the middle of these three stitches. Slip the first stitch, remove the marker, knit the next 2 stitches together and pass the slip stitch over - you are then left with one stitch and you replace the marker on this stitch.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> ps Just going to knit up a sample and take pictures to see if that can help you. Back in a minute.
Click to expand...

OK Pat, let's see if this helps.

You do this exactly the same for the first and second decrease on the row


----------



## jmai5421

PurpleV said:


> PurpleV said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PurpleV said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pat FP said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmm.. I thought I was doing that, should the decreases be out side( toward the ends) or inside toward the center, it seems I have the first decreases on the end before marker for 58 stitches and the decreases at the 202 marker seem to be in the middle. Does this explain my Delma?
> 
> 
> 
> Not quite sure what you mean. There are 3 stitches involved in a decrease. The marker should be on the middle of these three stitches. Slip the first stitch, remove the marker, knit the next 2 stitches together and pass the slip stitch over - you are then left with one stitch and you replace the marker on this stitch.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> ps Just going to knit up a sample and take pictures to see if that can help you. Back in a minute.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> OK Pat, let's see if this helps.
> 
> You do this exactly the same for the first and second decrease on the row
Click to expand...

I thought I was doing mine right, but think that I am still doing my decreases wrong. 
Looking at your pictures I see your marker on a stitch, then you slip the stitch after, knit the next two tog and psso. Or am I looking at the picture wrong? I am coming from a left handed point of view.
I am going to post a picture of mine. I do not have the same number of stitches on the two ends-should I?
Now when I go across the long end to the second decrease I am slipping the first stitch before the marker which is from the long end and then knitting the marker stitch and next one together which is from the short end and then psso. I hope this is right since I have quite a lot already knitted.


----------



## yarnwithcats

I have a question.
I'm at the point where you move 3" to waste yarn (I'm using extra cables) but my yarn is in the wrong place. It is at the beginning of the row, not where my needle is sitting. Should I cut the yarn and rejoin in the appropriate place?

And before anyone says anything about the way my diagonal line looks, I'm doing the alternate decrease and increase listed on page 5. The marker in the centre stitch was not working for me. It was too fidly and I kept loosing the marker. With the alternate increase/decrease I just have to remember to purl the centre stitch on the return row and don't have to use a marker.


----------



## PurpleFi

yarnwithcats said:


> I have a question.
> I'm at the point where you move 3" to waste yarn (I'm using extra cables) but my yarn is in the wrong place. It is at the beginning of the row, not where my needle is sitting. Should I cut the yarn and rejoin in the appropriate place?
> 
> And before anyone says anything about the way my diagonal line looks, I'm doing the alternate decrease and increase listed on page 5. The marker in the centre stitch was not working for me. It was too fidly and I kept loosing the marker. With the alternate increase/decrease I just have to remember to purl the centre stitch on the return row and don't have to use a marker.


First of all no one is going to say anything about your increase/decrease. There are no hard and fast rules and as long as you are consistent and loose the correct number of stitches in the correct place that is fine. With regard to your 3" of stitches I would undo those on the R. needle to bring your yarn back to the main bit of knitting and then you can you can always adjust it when you get to the neck.
Love the colours in your jacket and it looks great.


----------



## PurpleFi

darowil said:


> And I have now accessed a pattern! Now the only thing left to access is time! And maybe the right size needle tips and maybe more cables- but first need to work out what size to use. Easy way to start actually would be look at what size the WIP with the same yarn is on! And then I will only need to work out the stitches needed while I wait for the right size to arrive if I need to order them. Last time I ordered from this place it arrived within a day or two. So maybe I should do it this afternoon so I can have them when I am ready to start. Must finish the UFO that I converted to a WIP first though- or pointless to have failed on my first effort to decrease UFOs.


*Just make sure that the piece you are measuring is in the same stitch as you intend to do the jacke*t.


----------



## PurpleFi

Patchworkcat said:


> yarnwithcats said:
> 
> 
> 
> And before anyone says anything about the way my diagonal line looks, I'm doing the alternate decrease and increase listed on page 5. The marker in the centre stitch was not working for me. It was too fidly and I kept loosing the marker. With the alternate increase/decrease I just have to remember to purl the centre stitch on the return row and don't have to use a marker.
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good to me. I was thinking about doing the same thing. I've had to start over completely (with different yarn) and am apparently having trouble counting properly. <brain fog>
> 
> Jill
Click to expand...

Try placing markers every 20 sts going out from the centre sts to the decrease and every 20 sts from either ends to the decrease. This will also help you to check you are doing the decreases evenly.


----------



## PurpleFi

Saroj said:


> I am adding about 2" between Inc and dec to length the sleeves. Do you think it is enough or should I add more.


If you are making it a long sleeved jacket you should add the length from the elbow downwards to the wrist. I think by adding rows between the dec and inc you may well distort the jacket.


----------



## PurpleFi

cablemable said:


> Hi I have decided to make my sweater all one color.
> A dark blue with red, green, and yellow color spects in it.
> I'm not afraid of this pattern now as I have knitted three of the BSJ's. What scared me when starting this project was the cast on number,just wanted it to be right.


Try placing markers as I suggest below:=

Try placing markers every 20 sts going out from the centre sts to the decrease and every 20 sts from either ends to the decrease. This will also help you to check you are doing the decreases evenly.


----------



## London Girl

Saroj said:


> PurpleV said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saroj said:
> 
> 
> 
> I am adding about 2" between Inc and dec to length the sleeves. Do you think it is enough or should I add more.
> 
> 
> 
> If you are making it a long sleeved jacket you should add the length from the elbow downwards to the wrist. I think by adding rows between the dec and inc you may well distort the jacket.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks. Should I rip up the 7 garter rows that I added or just leave it and continue with Inc now
Click to expand...

If you can bear to rip it, I think I would but if you can't, it will be interesting to find out what difference it makes to the finished article! Having never tried adding straight rows, I can't honestly tell you what the result will be!


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## jmai5421

I am at the increase part. I do have that figured out but wonder where that will be on the sweater. I just want to know where to put the striping and also where the striping will go on the part I have already finished. My plan was the sequence around the lower part of the sleeve and around the bottom and have the rest varigated green. Thanks to PurpleV I have a color for the trim down the front and around the neck and bottom. I have enclosed a picture of that color too. I thought I was going to run out of the pink color but my daughter has located some in Phoenix, even matching the dye lot and is going to mail 4 skeins to me in MN. I like PurpleV's idea of the dark green and will go with that. Now back to my original question as to where the stripes will go when I start increasing. Do I stripe or do I continue with green varigated?


----------



## PurpleFi

jmai5421 said:


> I am at the increase part. I do have that figured out but wonder where that will be on the sweater. I just want to know where to put the striping and also where the striping will go on the part I have already finished. My plan was the sequence around the lower part of the sleeve and around the bottom and have the rest varigated green. Thanks to PurpleV I have a color for the trim down the front and around the neck and bottom. I have enclosed a picture of that color too. I thought I was going to run out of the pink color but my daughter has located some in Phoenix, even matching the dye lot and is going to mail 4 skeins to me in MN. I like PurpleV's idea of the dark green and will go with that. Now back to my original question as to where the stripes will go when I start increasing. Do I stripe or do I continue with green varigated?


Your colours are looking really good. The stripes now move around to the front. Going from the underside of the sleeve to the centre front. Here's a photo, the increases finishes at the darker lilac colour. The darker colour below that is where the straight knitting starts. Hope it's clear.


----------



## PurpleFi

Patchworkcat said:


> Okay, I think I've crossed the sanity line to the wrong side. Wasn't there a photo of London Girl and Purple V standing side by side each wearing their ASJs? I thought I remembered seeing it near the beginning of this workshop. The photo showed (more clearly than the avatars because they were side by side) the different necklines. So, am I crazy or what? I ask because I cannot find that photo now.
> 
> Jill


Can't have you loosing your sanity. Here's the photo again


----------



## helen4930

Here's where I'm up to - just done a few increases at this point. The two small blue markers mark the central stitch and the pink ones mark each 50-stitches though that's changed a bit with the decreasing and increasing. I'm carrying my wool up the sides of the jacket which seems to be working OK. I am just loving this workshop and all the interesting dialogue that goes with it. And I think you two gals look just so fabulous in your jackets!


----------



## PurpleFi

nemcfo said:


> After starting the BSJ (160 sts c/o with worsted weight) at least 10 times, I finally "got" the decreases. I read all the pages. Did I miss somewhere about which rows to put in the buttonholes? I'd rather put in a zipper, but that seems a little difficult.


You haven't missed the buttonholes, they come at the end as the front band is about the last thing you do. And yyes you could put a zipper in, you will have to do less rows on the front so your jacket finishes edge to edge and of course leave out the button holes.


----------



## PurpleFi

Chickknitter9 said:


> I am just joining and I don't see the amount of yarn needed . Is there a recommended amount per, say...small, or med. etc? I will be purchasing yarn for this and have no idea where to start. How's this for a really beginner question?


There is no quantity of yarn given for this pattern as it is supposed to be a stash buster and you can knit it in anythickness of yarn you like. But for a guide a jacket knitted in double knit yarn will take less than 2 lbs weight in yarn. Hope that helps. Please ready all the pages especially the beginning ones as there is a lot of information there. Good luck and let us know if you need any further help.


----------



## PurpleFi

knitterrev said:


> I have been reading along and had to start it over once due to misunderstanding the decrease process. Think I have now and am eager to catch up to where I was. My question now is about adding new yarn for the stripes. Do you cut the yarn each time and sew in all the ends at the end of the knitting? The pictures of your work in progress look so neat and I don't see what you are doing with yarn ends. Thanks for all the help to date.


If you are doing narrow stripes you could take the yarn through, but I cut the ends and sew them in as the seam is going to be along the top of the shoulder and taking the yarn through adds to the bulk. I just have an end sewing in session every so often so it's not all left to when the jacket is finished. Sounds as if yoy are going great guns now.


----------



## London Girl

nemcfo said:


> After starting the BSJ (160 sts c/o with worsted weight) at least 10 times, I finally "got" the decreases. I read all the pages. Did I miss somewhere about which rows to put in the buttonholes? I'd rather put in a zipper, but that seems a little difficult.


It shouldn't be too difficult, you just wouldn't need the buttonhole band as wide. Or you could turn the whole of both front bands to the inside and stitch your zip along the fold? If you change your mind about the buttonholes, it says to work two ridges on the front rows and then work 7 buttonholes evenly spaced (on the right side, of course!) and then work 4-5 more rows.


----------



## PurpleFi

helen4930 said:


> Here's where I'm up to - just done a few increases at this point. The two small blue markers mark the central stitch and the pink ones mark each 50-stitches though that's changed a bit with the decreasing and increasing. I'm carrying my wool up the sides of the jacket which seems to be working OK. I am just loving this workshop and all the interesting dialogue that goes with it. And I think you two gals look just so fabulous in your jackets!


Your jacket looks beautiful and the colours are great. If you put a pink marker on the very centre stitch of the jacket that is the back of the neck and them count your 50 (I do 20) sts out from that and then mark the stitches from the beg of the row and the end of the row in 50 you will find the sts getting less/more at the
increase/decrease and this also helps you keep a check that you are working evenly. Does that make sense? (I've only had one cup of coffee this morning so far!)


----------



## London Girl

Chickknitter9 said:


> I am just joining and I don't see the amount of yarn needed . Is there a recommended amount per, say...small, or med. etc? I will be purchasing yarn for this and have no idea where to start. How's this for a really beginner question?


Not at all, we all started as newbies! The finished weight of the jacket, knitted in double knitting yarn is 1.5 - 2lb so you would need about that amount. It loks better knitted in stripes to emphasise the way the jacket is made so if you have any odd balls of yarn, you could buy less new yarn and incorporate the contrasting odd bits, it'll look good, I promise!! Let us know if you need any more help!


----------



## London Girl

knitterrev said:


> I have been reading along and had to start it over once due to misunderstanding the decrease process. Think I have now and am eager to catch up to where I was. My question now is about adding new yarn for the stripes. Do you cut the yarn each time and sew in all the ends at the end of the knitting? The pictures of your work in progress look so neat and I don't see what you are doing with yarn ends. Thanks for all the help to date.


It depends how wide you want your stripes to be. If they are quite thin then it is easiest to carry the yarn loosely up the sides but if they are wider or you are using lots of different colours, best to chop it off when you've finished!


----------



## Xiang

He'll, just popping in to say hi, I have just tried to check the size of the sleeves, but can't do it - I need a longer cabled needle, so will hopefully have one in my little box of tricks
Well my jacket is slowly growing *VERY* slowly :shock: :roll: ......... I might get it finished by the end of Autumn :XD:


----------



## PurpleFi

London Girl said:


> Isa said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dowager said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Designer1234 said:
> 
> 
> 
> DESIGNER HERE:
> 
> I think that from the looks of things, the more confusing part is behind you, thanks to the wonderful support of our two ladies from the UK! These sweaters are amazing --
> 
> I will drop by again later- have fun everyone!. Designer
> 
> 
> 
> At what point do we get beyond the "confusing part"? I have only gotten 10 rows done, and am starting my first color change on the 11th. *sigh* Part of my problem is my needle isn't long enough, and I can't find any 40" or more circular needles. So much for using chunky yarn and being a large busted lady!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I gave up on the bulky yarn; my hands hurt while knitting for only a few minutes and I didn't like how it was shaping/draping, (though I believe it's more my knitting style than the yarn.) I'm a plus sizer and I found 40 inch length cables made by Addi turbo and they have cable extenders to accommodate/create longer lengths. Also, Knitpicks has cable lengths for their interchangeable needles up to 60"!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think PurpleV was using a 60" cable so she could spread her work out to take pictures.
Click to expand...

Yes I am using a 60" needle which is a good job as have decided to do the collar, front edges and back all on one!


----------



## Naneast

This is really a surprise all the way to almost the end. Elizabeth Zimmermann is a genius to come up with this design. I'm going to let you guys guess the specifics of mine too. Here it is..


----------



## PurpleFi

joycegordon said:


> I'm ready for the increases now. Do you do one row plain before you increase as in th bsj and the kid size? I'm in the car and typing on the phone which is not easy. I'm not the one driving so don't worry.


No, just go straight on to the increase row. Are you knitting in the car?


----------



## PurpleFi

Stocking stitch grows a bit quicker than garter stitch so when I knitted mine in st.st. I laid it on a flat surface and measured the front against the back and did just a few less rows on the front.


----------



## PurpleFi

colleenmay said:


> PurpleV said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> colleenmay said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PurpleV said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> joycegordon said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm ready for the increases now. Do you do one row plain before you increase as in th bsj and the kid size? I'm in the car and typing on the phone which is not easy. I'm not the one driving so don't worry.
> 
> 
> 
> No, just go straight on to the increase row. Are you knitting in the car?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Wait a minute. I too am at the end of the decreases. At the top of page 6 in the pattern it says : "Work three rows without shaping." Then you begin the increases. Why the difference?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You go straight from dec to inc. At the top of page 6 is says -
> When you have dec 2K sts at each point and are down to 5K sts you are at the underarm. Now change tactics aat those 2 points. Inc 2 sts every 2nd row....
> It is only of the baby jacket that you k 3 rows.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I must have a different pattern. I just bought mine so I am very confused. My pattern says :"When you have decreased 2(K) sts at each point and are down to 5(K) sts, you are at the underarms. Work three rows without shaping. Now change tactics:"
> 
> I checked and this IS the Adult part of the pattern!!
Click to expand...

My pattern goes straight from dec to inc and it works fine.


----------



## PurpleFi

_*The best way to keep a track of your stitches is to mark the centre st. of each dec. Also mark the very centre sts of the jacket*. Then place small markers every 2 sts from the centre out to the dec sts. And small markers from the edge of knitting towards the dec sts. at both ends_.

This way you can easily see the sts next to the dec sts reducing rather than having to keep count. Hope you can understand that.


----------



## PurpleFi

colleenmay said:


> Does it matter if you are in the middle of a stripe when you switch from decrease to increases?


No it doesn't as the actual dec to inc part comes under the arm and the stripes just continue.


----------



## PurpleFi

Vole61 said:


> Do you have to use circular needles, r can you do this on two needles


I would recommend using circular needles as you will be casting on 200+ stitches for the adult size.


----------



## PurpleFi

Dowager said:


> colleenmay said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PurpleV said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> colleenmay said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PurpleV said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> joycegordon said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm ready for the increases now. Do you do one row plain before you increase as in th bsj and the kid size? I'm in the car and typing on the phone which is not easy. I'm not the one driving so don't worry.
> 
> 
> 
> No, just go straight on to the increase row. Are you knitting in the car?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Wait a minute. I too am at the end of the decreases. At the top of page 6 in the pattern it says : "Work three rows without shaping." Then you begin the increases. Why the difference?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You go straight from dec to inc. At the top of page 6 is says -
> When you have dec 2K sts at each point and are down to 5K sts you are at the underarm. Now change tactics aat those 2 points. Inc 2 sts every 2nd row....
> It is only of the baby jacket that you k 3 rows.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I must have a different pattern. I just bought mine so I am very confused. My pattern says :"When you have decreased 2(K) sts at each point and are down to 5(K) sts, you are at the underarms. Work three rows without shaping. Now change tactics:"
> 
> I checked and this IS the Adult part of the pattern!!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Odd, I just bought the pattern from Schoolhouse Press for this Jacket, on at the beginning of page 6 mine says "When you have decreased 2 [K] stitches at each point and are down to 5 [K] stitches, you are at the underarm. Now Change Tactics at the two points (A and B). INCrease 2 stitches every 2nd row by Make 1 on either side of the marked stitch. This will reverse the angle. Keep the Center stitch constant"
> 
> So it looks like there may be 3 different wordings of instructions at that point, as if we are not confused enough! *LOL*
Click to expand...

Yours says ther same as mine I just precised it a bit. Just keep doing what your are doing and you'll be fine.


----------



## joand

The terra cotta yarn is the provisional cast on, but I may use it if the sweater looks like it needs more color.


----------



## PurpleFi

nemcfo said:


> London Girl said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nemcfo said:
> 
> 
> 
> After starting the BSJ (160 sts c/o with worsted weight) at least 10 times, I finally "got" the decreases. I read all the pages. Did I miss somewhere about which rows to put in the buttonholes? I'd rather put in a zipper, but that seems a little difficult.
> 
> 
> 
> It shouldn't be too difficult, you just wouldn't need the buttonhole band as wide. Or you could turn the whole of both front bands to the inside and stitch your zip along the fold? If you change your mind about the buttonholes, it says to work two ridges on the front rows and then work 7 buttonholes evenly spaced (on the right side, of course!) and then work 4-5 more rows.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks. I'm aiming for a zipper. I have to tell you I am LOVING this workshop. I've been wanting to knit this sweater for quite some time, but found the directions intimidating.
> 
> I've read all the workshop pages and haven't found anyone who asked a question about the increases. On the BSJ in row 11. (k3,m1) Does that mean k3, make 1 stitch? So that is an increase? Is there a special way we're supposed to increase?
> 
> Thanks for all your help ladies, I would never be doing this without you.
Click to expand...

On the bjs the stitches are added across the back to give extra width. The way I pick is to pick up the thread between the stitch and k into the back of it.


----------



## PurpleFi

joand said:


> I will try to post a picture of my progress so far. I'm using worsted wt. acrylic( washable for my active GD). My gauge is 4.5 st per inch, . I've just reached my first increase row. I did one row between the decreases and starting my increases because I like to do them on the right side-- that way I remember more easily. It still looks a little strange, but I'm trusting that it'll all work out in the end!


Thats ok knitting back to the right side to start the increases. What you have just knitted is across the back from elbow to elbow and the front of the sleeves. If you go back a bit you will see I posted a picture of what it will look like at this stage.


----------



## PurpleFi

loveyarn said:


> Well, I have just started over again. My stitch count was way off one side was about 10 stitches shorter than the other. Don't know where I went wrong.


If you go back a few pages you will see I mention about putting stitch markers every 20 sts. from the centre outwards to the idec marker and from the beg and end of the row every 20 sts to the ded marker. This should help you get your counting correct and keep you going in the right place.


----------



## PurpleFi

joand said:


> joand said:
> 
> 
> 
> The terra cotta yarn is the provisional cast on, but I may use it if the sweater looks like it needs more color.
> 
> 
> 
> OK-- after a couple of increase rows, I've frogged back to the decreases again, because I had a funny hole at the increases. I'm going to use my usual method for the M1, because EZ's method doesn't seem to work for me.
Click to expand...

If you inc by picking up the yarn between the needles and then k it through to back that should work, there will be a slight 'hole' but that is just the way the inc works.


----------



## PurpleFi

Isa said:


> PurpleV said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Isa said:
> 
> 
> 
> Two problems; holes and stitch count is off. No matter how many time I frog, I am always off 2 stitches less than calculated and, there is a line of holes that appear as open 'lace' work. You don't see the even line of holes when i lay the sweater on the table. When I am working the band and am in the pick up section/area, they are there. I picked uo between ridges, (in the 'valley), not the top of the stitch. Note: i had slipped stitched each end of the 90 stitches, does this make a difference? When i tried picking up just the back or front end of the slipped stitch, it was more obvious. What am I doing wrong?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are the holes along the increase/decrease line or on the pick-up line?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are in the pickup line and are stretching out when I work near the area.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the stitches are stretching out when you work but dont show when you lay it flat then it will probably be ok. You say you slip stitches each end of the 90 stitches where abouts in your jacket does that come? Perhaps if you post a picture we can help you more easily.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I frogged back to where the increases begin. I was frustrated with being off by 2 stitches (I have a bit of OCD and it was bothering me) and thought perhaps my error was somewhere around there. I will try to post a pic when I get to this spot again but no guarantee as I am not too techno-able.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## PurpleFi

cablemable said:


> well girls I'm changing colors from dark blue to pink camo.
> can't see my decrease stitches! BUMMER!


DOn't forget your stitch marker. I found that holding my knitting up to the light I could see the dec stitches easier.


----------



## helen4930

jvoel said:


> I am at the point of 3 inches of stitches on pieces of wool on each end .Now I continue increases at the markers. Do I continue to increase on each side of the markers just as I have been doing? Wasn't clear if it is just to the center stitches or to both sides of the markers, thus increasing 4 stitches on each increase row.


I wanted to ask a question on this too. We need to increase between the central marked stitches back up to 6K. When I am counting to get the 6K number, do I count the centre stitch on either side (A and B) and all the stitches in between or do we also count the stitch we have picked up on the outside of the marker? I'm assuming we're still doing a double increase.


----------



## PurpleFi

To answer your questions regarding the increasing after putting your stitches on a piece of wool.

You count the stitches between the markers (not the marked stitches) but carry on double increasing. Sounds as if you are all getting on well. And those of you that are not at that point doint worry as there is no rush to finish the jacket, just enjoy your knitting.


----------



## London Girl

Don't fret, the info will stay on here until long after the tutorial is finished! Ladies, be not downhearted, this is a learning curve and if you haven't realised already, PurpleV and I have done *more* than our fair share of frogging with this project! The point is that this is different in the way of knitting it from anything you've ever done before, you are pioneers!!! Having said that, I have finished mine and I love it!! Here it is, in all it's glory!!


----------



## janwalla

Well this will be the first time i attempt with photo's. sadly to be ripped out!! may even use different yarn!! one is how it may have looked the last one and the top one is the reason i decided to rip it (oooh how i wish i didn't re-measure as well) ha ha !!


----------



## PurpleFi

janwalla said:


> Which is the best increase to use on this jacket please? So when i start again ill not make the same mistake.
> 
> Love the jacket london girl just right for the (hopefully) summer!!


I pick up the yarn between the stitches and knit into the back of it. Seems to work for me.


----------



## PurpleFi

LoriRuth said:


> I have been going through all the notes and hints that I copied and from the work shop, highlighting the ones I will need to refer back to. This way I won't have to search 40 some pages to find something again. Can you tell I am a researcher, LOL? Now I am going to do the provisional cast on, before and after my markers. Do I do a cable cast on in between?


Yes you do cable cast on between the provisional cast on.


----------



## London Girl

Just a small note that might save you some angst;*When I cast off my jacket, I used a needles 4 sizes bigger than the one I used for the jacket - BUT - it should still have been a lot looser so check when you've cast of a few inch, give it a good pull and see if it's ok*. I now wish I had used the cast off used on the Ashton shawl, that is soooo stretchy!!


----------



## PurpleFi

Saroj said:


> My pattern was mailed by schoolhouse on feb 15. It is coming by snail mail. I think it should be here today.
> 
> My question, when I put 3" on hold for neck, the increases are only in the center markers only or both sides of the marker? The 215 Sts is for the back only. On the bsj we increased all at once in the middle section for neck ease.


You carry on doing the increase either side of the marker but then count the stitches between the marker (not the marked stitch) until you have the number given.


----------



## Miss Pam

Here is my ASJ in progress. The colors aren't exactly right, but you get the idea. What looks green is actually gray, that kind of thing. I'm actually now on the increases.


----------



## PurpleFi

London Girl said:


> colleenmay said:
> 
> 
> 
> QUESTION: I started with 252 stitches. I am knitting all in stockinette. I have decreased down to 140 and am now back up to 210. I want my jacket to just meet in the center, not overlap with button bands or anything. I am beginning to worry that if I get back up to 252 stitches, it will already overlap. I have laid it out to how I THINK it will go, and there are only 3-4 inches between the two sides. I have read and re-read the rest of the pattern, but cannot figure out what the consequences would be of ending this part early. Please help!!!
> 
> 
> 
> OK. After increasing, you knit only on the length (flap) so that will not affect the width at the front. I am pretty sure you will be ok, just keep laying it out as flat as you can and stop when you are happy with the width, I am sure that's what PurpleV did with her stocking stitch jacket.
Click to expand...

I did not knit back to the number of stitches the pattern said. I cut back until it was just a couple of increase between the edges and then did the edge in moss stitch. AsLondon Girl says lay it flat to measure the width as stocking stitch does grow more than garter.


----------



## London Girl

Gweniepooh said:


> * Do you have to use a cable cast on between the markers?
> I chose a different method of cast on between the provisional cast on.*


No that's fine Gwen, whatever you are happiest with!


----------



## yarnwithcats

I think I have a problem.
I'm doing the plain knitting on the centre stitches, but there is a notch. Was I supposed to include the "marked" stitch with the centre stitches?

ps: Thank you for the kind comments the last time that I posted my pics.
I never considered myself a fast knitter, just the weather has been helping me to stay inside and knit.


----------



## Saroj

I will be very happy when I am done. Here is where I am.


----------



## jmai5421

This is my ASJ so far. I have 14 stitches from both sides of the needle on stitch holders. 4.6 sts per inchx3=13.8 or 14 stitches. Is that right? Now it says to knit to 6K between A&B. Those are the markers on my needles for the front, the green ones where I increase-right? So I knit increasing at the markers until I have 6K or 34x6=204 stitches between the two markers. I just want to clarify to make sure I am doing this part right. When I get the 204 stitches between the markers counting on both needles on the front, I just keep knitting until I am 1" shorter than the desired length without any increases. I have 169 stitches on the back right now. When I increase at the markers all the increases(4) will be on the front, right? So a total of 373 stitches. I hope I am making sense. This is a picture so far. I hope all is O.K.
Judy

Designer here- Judy- I love your colours


----------



## Naneast

I wore my surprise jacket to the luncheon meeting at the Lyseum Club last Thursday. The picture was taken with the Woolworth Bld. and the Brooklyn, Manhattan and Williamsburg bridges in the background. I put the buttons on the jacket after I got home. I'm working on my second jacket with a lot of help from Tony, Tiger and Lumpang.


----------



## PurpleFi

Well I am back from my day at the Farnham Maltings Knitting Exhibition. I have never before seen so much wool all in one place.
It was lovely going round and feeling all the heavenly yarn aned seeing every colour under the sun. I even got to chat with Elizabeth Zimmerman's neice who was there with another type of odd looking jumper, this time knitted on the diagonal.
Thought you'd like to see a couple of pictures from the exhibition.


----------



## PurpleFi

jmai5421 said:


> This is my ASJ so far. I have 14 stitches from both sides of the needle on stitch holders. 4.6 sts per inchx3=13.8 or 14 stitches. Is that right? Now it says to knit to 6K between A&B. Those are the markers on my needles for the front, the green ones where I increase-right? So I knit increasing at the markers until I have 6K or 34x6=204 stitches between the two markers. I just want to clarify to make sure I am doing this part right. When I get the 204 stitches between the markers counting on both needles on the front, I just keep knitting until I am 1" shorter than the desired length without any increases. I have 169 stitches on the back right now. When I increase at the markers all the increases(4) will be on the front, right? So a total of 373 stitches. I hope I am making sense. This is a picture so far. I hope all is O.K.
> Judy


You now knit only on the stitches at the bottom of the jacket, until you have the required length minus about an inch or however wide you want the front band and bottom to be. It looks fine so far and lovely colours too.


----------



## Gweniepooh

Still working on ASJ and beginning to wonder if this really is going to be a sweater. I'm finally DOWN to 302 stitches and have to keep decreasing until I reach 257. Must confess I took 3 days off; one to rest hands and 2 to finish up socks started in Darowil's workshop. I am blindly following the directions but just can not picture it in my mind how this is going to end up a sweater. I did pick a sweatshirt that is quite loose to measure so I know it is going to fit loosely but my goodness...look at the size of this; I've attached 3 pictures. Thank goodness for lots of stash though I'm not thrilled with the colors; just mildly satisfied for this first one. If it fits nicely I'll do one in my favorite colors....purple being number 1 with maybe red and green.


----------



## Xiang

This is take 2 of my jacket, & there are 3 or 4 more colours to go in, it is getting there


----------



## colleenmay

Can I ask for opinions? I am almost finished with my jacket. All I have left is a band all around done in moss stitch. I don't plan to have buttons, I plan for it to just meet in front. At least I hope so. We will see. If not, I guess the surprise will be on me! Anyway, I have been just looking at my jacket for two days because I cannot decide whether to do the band in the hot pink or in the black. I WAS going to do the hot pink, but now am wondering if the black would look better. So, any opinions (help)? Here are a couple of pictures. The pink is a hot pink, what looks like gray is really a soft purple. I am a redhead who grew up being told I could NEVER wear pink, red, etc. So NOW that I am (ahem) MATURE, half my wardrobe is pink.


----------



## London Girl

jmai5421 said:


> PurpleV said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> jmai5421 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> colleenmay said:
> 
> 
> 
> Can I ask for opinions? I am almost finished with my jacket. All I have left is a band all around done in moss stitch. I don't plan to have buttons, I plan for it to just meet in front. At least I hope so. We will see. If not, I guess the surprise will be on me! Anyway, I have been just looking at my jacket for two days because I cannot decide whether to do the band in the hot pink or in the black. I WAS going to do the hot pink, but now am wondering if the black would look better. So, any opinions (help)? Here are a couple of pictures. The pink is a hot pink, what looks like gray is really a soft purple. I am a redhead who grew up being told I could NEVER wear pink, red, etc. So NOW that I am (ahem) MATURE, half my wardrobe is pink.
> 
> 
> 
> Love your jacket and the color combination. I don't know what color I would use for the finishing. I like both.
> I am still trying to figure where I am going with my jacket. You are far ahead of me. I am still on the part on page 6 of the pattern where I am increasing at A&B until the center section between A&B is 6K or 204 stitches in my case. Then you put the stitches between E-A and F-B on pieces of wool or stitch holders. Then you work without shaping for awhile. Where is E-A and F-B? Is that the fronts to the increase markers? The pattern doesn't say how many stitches or how many inches.
> I have to wait for some yarn in the mail so thought I would read ahead and now confused.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes that is right. After the increases you have the stitches between A and B on your needle. You then carry on for the length you require (less the depth of the bottom and front bands) until you have knitted to G to H. You will be working on the 204 stitches without any increases. Does that make sense.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes, but still confused about the wool or stitch holders E-A and F-B or forget the stitch holders. Mine right now looks somewhat like Colleenmay's jacket only not quite as far. I still havent decided on the bands seed stitch, moss stitch or I-cord. I am thinking Icord and the darkest green in the varigated but I have a ways to go before that decision. I was just confused about the paragraph on pg6 about putting the stitches E-A and F-B on a piece of wool.
Click to expand...

When you get to that point, you literally put 3" worth of stitches (use your gauge to work out how many) on to 2 pieces of yarn, at either end of your work. This will form the 'cut-out' for the side of the neck.


----------



## PurpleFi

jmai5421 said:


> PurpleV said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> jmai5421 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> colleenmay said:
> 
> 
> 
> Can I ask for opinions? I am almost finished with my jacket. All I have left is a band all around done in moss stitch. I don't plan to have buttons, I plan for it to just meet in front. At least I hope so. We will see. If not, I guess the surprise will be on me! Anyway, I have been just looking at my jacket for two days because I cannot decide whether to do the band in the hot pink or in the black. I WAS going to do the hot pink, but now am wondering if the black would look better. So, any opinions (help)? Here are a couple of pictures. The pink is a hot pink, what looks like gray is really a soft purple. I am a redhead who grew up being told I could NEVER wear pink, red, etc. So NOW that I am (ahem) MATURE, half my wardrobe is pink.
> 
> 
> 
> Love your jacket and the color combination. I don't know what color I would use for the finishing. I like both.
> I am still trying to figure where I am going with my jacket. You are far ahead of me. I am still on the part on page 6 of the pattern where I am increasing at A&B until the center section between A&B is 6K or 204 stitches in my case. Then you put the stitches between E-A and F-B on pieces of wool or stitch holders. Then you work without shaping for awhile. Where is E-A and F-B? Is that the fronts to the increase markers? The pattern doesn't say how many stitches or how many inches.
> I have to wait for some yarn in the mail so thought I would read ahead and now confused.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes that is right. After the increases you have the stitches between A and B on your needle. You then carry on for the length you require (less the depth of the bottom and front bands) until you have knitted to G to H. You will be working on the 204 stitches without any increases. Does that make sense.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes, but still confused about the wool or stitch holders E-A and F-B or forget the stitch holders. Mine right now looks somewhat like Colleenmay's jacket only not quite as far. I still havent decided on the bands seed stitch, moss stitch or I-cord. I am thinking Icord and the darkest green in the varigated but I have a ways to go before that decision. I was just confused about the paragraph on pg6 about putting the stitches E-A and F-B on a piece of wool.
Click to expand...

E-A and F-B are the stitches for the top part of the front bands,(marked in green) you then keep knitting straight until you have the length you want. (area marked in pink)Pick up from the sides of theses stitches just knitted (marked in dk blue)and the ones you have left E-A and F-B to make the front bands and along the bottom of the jacket as well. Hope the photo helps


----------



## London Girl

jmai5421 said:


> London Girl said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> jmai5421 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PurpleV said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> jmai5421 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> colleenmay said:
> 
> 
> 
> Can I ask for opinions? I am almost finished with my jacket. All I have left is a band all around done in moss stitch. I don't plan to have buttons, I plan for it to just meet in front. At least I hope so. We will see. If not, I guess the surprise will be on me! Anyway, I have been just looking at my jacket for two days because I cannot decide whether to do the band in the hot pink or in the black. I WAS going to do the hot pink, but now am wondering if the black would look better. So, any opinions (help)? Here are a couple of pictures. The pink is a hot pink, what looks like gray is really a soft purple. I am a redhead who grew up being told I could NEVER wear pink, red, etc. So NOW that I am (ahem) MATURE, half my wardrobe is pink.
> 
> 
> 
> Love your jacket and the color combination. I don't know what color I would use for the finishing. I like both.
> I am still trying to figure where I am going with my jacket. You are far ahead of me. I am still on the part on page 6 of the pattern where I am increasing at A&B until the center section between A&B is 6K or 204 stitches in my case. Then you put the stitches between E-A and F-B on pieces of wool or stitch holders. Then you work without shaping for awhile. Where is E-A and F-B? Is that the fronts to the increase markers? The pattern doesn't say how many stitches or how many inches.
> I have to wait for some yarn in the mail so thought I would read ahead and now confused.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes that is right. After the increases you have the stitches between A and B on your needle. You then carry on for the length you require (less the depth of the bottom and front bands) until you have knitted to G to H. You will be working on the 204 stitches without any increases. Does that make sense.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes, but still confused about the wool or stitch holders E-A and F-B or forget the stitch holders. Mine right now looks somewhat like Colleenmay's jacket only not quite as far. I still havent decided on the bands seed stitch, moss stitch or I-cord. I am thinking Icord and the darkest green in the varigated but I have a ways to go before that decision. I was just confused about the paragraph on pg6 about putting the stitches E-A and F-B on a piece of wool.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> When you get to that point, you literally put 3" worth of stitches (use your gauge to work out how many) on to 2 pieces of yarn, at either end of your work. This will form the 'cut-out' for the side of the neck.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have done that. But if you read further down in the instructions and I will be there soon, to put E-A and F-B on a piece of wool. Am I reading that right? On your picture, the same as mine the A-E and F-B look like the fronts from the marked stitches to the neck where I already have 14 stitches. There is a little jog there. Is that where on your jacket the pattern seems to go from vertical to horizontal stripes. Am I making sense?
Click to expand...

Yes, perfect sense, so sorry I was looking in the wrong place! What you are doing is putting all the stitches at either end of your work, onto scrap yarn, up to your decrease/increase markers so you will continue to work only on the centre stitches. This forms the body of the whole sweater, ie, the bit that wraps round your body!! Go with it, it will all come out right, I promise!!


----------



## PurpleFi

Just thought you would like to know that I have decided my jacket is more of a top coat as I knitted it in aran weight wool. So I am going to line it and machine the buttonholes. Well that's the plan anyway.


----------



## PurpleFi

jvoel said:


> I guess that I am a little confused.As I understand it, we work on all of the stitches until we get to the point that we want to increase the length.IT is at that point that we work only the center stitches and put the stitches of each side on a piece of wool?If this is the case, does the center stitch go on the piece of wool where the stitches are held, or do you continue to knit them with the center section , increasing the length of the sweater? I hope hat I am making sense.


If you look at my photo. You put the stitches from the neck to the end of the increase onto a spare needle,wool or stitch holder (marked in green) You are then left with the centre stitches on your needle, these go around your width. You then continue to knit down (the pink area) until you have the length you require. You then pick up and knit the side of the stitches you have just knitted (marked in dk blue) and then pick up the spare stitches (green) for the borders.


----------



## Saroj

I took a break from asj and completed a bsj. Shirley inspired me when she posted her picture of the beautiful yarn from India. I bought these vibrant colors couple of years ago when visiting India and did not have a prohject in mind. My niece wanted a black cardigan from her 5 month old baby so i came up with this. still have to give finishing touches with buttons. sleeves are still on yarn. took me 2 days to complete this itsy bitsy sweater. back to my asj.


----------



## LoriRuth

PurpleV said:


> LoriRuth said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well I started. It is working out great, no problems with the decreases. I marked every 33 stitches as that works out best with my cast on stitches. Easy to figure out if something goes wrong. I have a few more inches before I am going to do a color change but wanted to know if the first row with the new color on the wrong side or the right side is best. There was a picture but I couldn't find where it said which picture was the color started on the wrong or right side. I don't want that little color ridge on the right side.
> 
> 
> 
> I think you you should do the first row of the change on the right side. The ridges come on the wrong side. Or you could do a small swatch to check. As I used provisonal cast on for the sleeve extension I did not start the jacket on the wrong side first.
Click to expand...

Neither did I. I just marked the side that I am decreasing on, which I understand is the right side, so that will be the side I do my first color row. I can always tink after the first set of stitches before my marker if it is wrong.

Thank you


----------



## helen4930

This is where I'm at now - starting the bottom part. Getting close to the finish but I'm going to Iceland on Sunday for four days to see the Northern Lights (hopefully). A life long dream about to happen! Taking the WIP with me - the intention is there but don't know how much will get done.


----------



## darowil

Well as promised here is the ASJ witht he decreasing finished. As I said I have pulled out a small pice o fyarn to determine the next colour (the only time I havent use dth ecolour pulled out was if I pulled the same colour twice in immediate succesion. ANd to determine the number of rows done I used a dice. It is very bright- I will be seen coming for miles.
But now to other things for a week- hopefully after my MILs 90th next weekend I will return to the increasing (but I am knitting for her so must get it done).


----------



## Naneast

Here is my illusion stripes ASJ. Using Caron Simply Soft yarn, 6 color combination.


----------



## Naneast

5mmdpns said:


> Naneast said:
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my illusion stripes ASJ. Using Caron Simply Soft yarn, 6 color combination.
> 
> 
> 
> On the back of the ASJ, there are three vertical lines in the stitchwork. I am a bit not understanding them being there as I have not seen them in any other surprise jacket. Are you able to tell me about them?? (I dont think they detract from the surprise jacket!!!!! were they intentionally put there with a different stitch, and can you tell me what stitch was used to create the "panel look"?)
Click to expand...

The three vertical lines on the back of the jacket are the marks created by the changing of colors from light to dark or dark to light. I made 6 color changes across the jacket. Here is the picture before the sewing up of the sleeves.


----------



## Designer1234

PARADE OF SURPRISE JACKETS WORKSHOP WITH purpleV and London Girl

http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-150451-1.html#2879896

I will download some of the pictures including a few of the recent works in progress and the teachers' sweaters right now. good job, ladies!


----------



## PurpleFi

Here is my finished jacket before it is blocked and lined and the buttons are just laid in place.


----------



## PurpleFi

Here is a close up of the button


----------



## PurpleFi

How to add a shawl collar to a Surprise Jacket

After you have put the 3 on a spare holder (use a holder instead of a spare piece of yarn as you will be adding stitches to it)
Continue knitting on the front edge and each time you come to a holder slip a stitch onto it. 
Continue to finish the straight piece of knitting.
When you want to do the front , neck and bottom band start at one side of the back of the neck. Pick up and knit the stitches across the back of the neck. Continue on these stitches picking up one stitch from the neck edge of the holders on each row. Continue picking up one stitch each row as you knit the stitches off the holder.
Now carry on knitting the stitches from the front of the jacket, pick up the stitches from the side of the straight bit. Do a double increase, knit along to halfway along the back.
[CAUTION  This is where I went wrong I thought I would do the whole band in a circle, but if you do that you will have stocking stitch at the band and not garter stitch]
Next turn your knitting and knit back up the front, across the neck and down the other side and round to the centre back.
Keep knitting back and forth remembering to do the increases until you have the width of border you require. The shawl collar can either be folder over as I have done or you can do a narrower border and leave it unfolded.
I hope this explanation is clear, if not let me know and I will try to improve it.


----------



## PurpleFi

PurpleV said:


> I cut my lining out this morning, tacked it, found it fitted so I machines it. Now I am about to fit it in the jacket.


The lining is now sewn into the jacket. Just have the hems to do and make the button holes and sew on the buttons. But my eyes and arms have had enough of sewing today so will finish it tomorrow.

Not taken any photos yet,but will do once it is finished and try to explain how I did it too.


----------



## London Girl

carmenl said:


> I'm confused. My pattern says to increase two stitches every other row. If I make one one each side of the marked stitch wouldn't that be four stitches every other row? What shall I do?


What pattern are you using? In EZ's pattern, she says "At the two marked points, increase 2 stitches every 2nd row, keeping the centre stitch constant." This is what you should be doing to reverse the angle of the decreasing!


----------



## London Girl

Andrea in TN said:


> just checking in --- I am still -sigh - decreasing but it is going faster now I am on row 46 and I need 80 rows of decrease. I am not usually so impatient but I can't wait to see how all of this works out. I am also wondering about how to do the increases . Do I just keep the stitch marker in the same place?


Yes, keep the marker in the same place and pick up a loop and knit into the back of it to make one(m1), on either side of centre stitch. Hope that helps. Keep going and don't expect to be able to foresee the finished product for a while yet!!


----------



## LoriRuth

I made an excel chart that keeps track of the stitches on either side of the decrease markers with the other markers I set up. It helps me keep track of where I am so I know I haven't made a mistake plus I am experimenting to see if I can place my color designs in this chart to. Will be interesting to see how close it comes out with the actually sweater. I charted the decreases then go immediately into the increases. I measured where I am, 5 inches, and marked in this same chart then measured down my back to figure out where I figure it should end....I hope this works out as there are a lot of possibility for using this info in the future. Still decreasing!


----------



## PurpleFi

carmenl said:


> I'm confused. My pattern says to increase two stitches every other row. If I make one one each side of the marked stitch wouldn't that be four stitches every other row? What shall I do?


You decrease a stitch either side of the marked stitches making four increases altogether. This will give your the right angles you need in your patter. Here's a photo to help you


----------



## PurpleFi

Linda C. said:


> Instead of using a piece of wool, would a stitch holder work as well, or is there a specific reason to use the wool? I'm still increasing...still have a ways to go. But I've been wondering if this would work for a while, and thought this would be a good time to ask!


No it makes no difference. I actually used spare cables from my interchangable set.


----------



## PurpleFi

joycegordon said:


> I'm making progress. I'm up to the straight part at the bottom of the sweater. But... as I fold it and look at it, the sleeves seem pretty narrow. Is that an illusion or are they really narrow?
> Joyce


I thought mine looked narrow too, but the fit is fine. You could always pin it together and try it before you stitch it up and if it is too narrow add an extra stripe along the top of the arm.


----------



## PurpleFi

When I decreased my sleeve as I wanted it as a top coat I decreased every 8th row down to the wrist, then k4, k2 tog and then knitted straight for a turn back cuff. That seemed to work ok.


----------



## colleenmay

Here is my jacket for now. I was the one who asked for opinions on using black or the hot pink for the edging. Since the last stripe was black in some spots, I went around with two rows of white, then four rows of black. I am not happy with how the neck came out. I am going to take off the edging and redo it so it is less square around the neckline. I also need to add the edging on the sleeves. However, I need to set it aside right now and make 36 dishclothes for our church's women's retreat, so I decided to just get my picture of my jacket in for now. I'm sure the workshop will be over when I get back to it.


----------



## Designer1234

Designer here -- Post pictures of your sweater to the "Parade of Surprise Jackets on the 'Picture forum of KP and also on the Picture thread- here is the link

http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-150451-1.html


----------



## Grandmaknitstoo

Here's my WIP so far... I'm at the increasing part about 6 increases in.


----------



## Xiang

Hello, time to post my WIP, I have 35 decreases to go and am hoping to finish those today, or tomorrow


----------



## JoyceKnits

Hi knitters,

I'm almost ready for the big pick-up, and I have two questions.

1. It looks like you do a band around the neck, the front, around the whole bottom,then up the other front. When I look at photos on Ravelry, several people do the band around the back neck too. How would you do that? Just continue around the back and join in a circle? 

I think this affects my next question.

2. I'd like to make the sleeves wider, and I know you can add a few ridges along the top to do that. At what point do I add the ridges? If I want the band to go around the back, do I make the sleeves wider before I do the band pick-up? Or should I just forget the idea of the band going around the back of the neck.

Thanks for your advise.

I'm attaching a photo of where I am at this point.

Joyce


----------



## PurpleFi

joycegordon said:


> Hi knitters,
> 
> I'm almost ready for the big pick-up, and I have two questions.
> 
> 1. It looks like you do a band around the neck, the front, around the whole bottom,then up the other front. When I look at photos on Ravelry, several people do the band around the back neck too. How would you do that? Just continue around the back and join in a circle?
> 
> I think this affects my next question.
> 
> 2. I'd like to make the sleeves wider, and I know you can add a few ridges along the top to do that. At what point do I add the ridges? If I want the band to go around the back, do I make the sleeves wider before I do the band pick-up? Or should I just forget the idea of the band going around the back of the neck.
> 
> Thanks for your advise.
> 
> I'm attaching a photo of where I am at this point.
> 
> Joyce


Hi Joyce,
If you want to make the sleeves wider do that before you do the band.
Yes you can do the band round the neck. Be careful if you do it in a circle as garter stitch will turn out as stocking stitch, so either do every other row purl or don't do it in a circle.
Hope this answers your questions.
And I love your colours.


----------



## PurpleFi

I last I have got round to doing the buttonholes for my jacket. Here is the finished article. It is in an aran weight yarn.


----------



## jmai5421

This is my sweater so far. I would like expert opinions on the color of the bands. I am planning on enough for buttons and then a I-Cord bind off. It will be something like the pictures of the CSJ's on page 8 and like Naneast's first sweater.
Thanks
Judy


----------



## joand

My progress so far. This will be my third try to post my pictures! I don't know what the problem is because I've never had trouble before. Anyway, I'll only post one and see if that works.


----------



## joand

Ah, success! Here's the back. I'm a little concerned that the fronts aren't as close together as some pictures-- do you adjust the button bands to fix that? Also, the sleeves look a little narrow, but my GD will be here to visit soon and I'll try it before I make any adjustments. The terra cotta was my provisional cast on yarn, but the sweater looked a little dull, so I decided to use it for one of the stripe colors. What do you think?


----------



## shirley m

Trying to send photo


----------



## Designer1234

Here is the link to this workshop's Parade

Adult Surprise Jackets with prupleV & London Girl

http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-150451-1.html


----------



## PurpleFi

piller51 said:


> Per your picture: I am knitting E-A and F-B. When I get ready to "continue on these center stitches only" do I place the two marked decrease/increase stitches on holders? Or do I include these stitches in knitting the length?


Put the centre of the inc/dec stitches on the holder and then knit the straight bit.


----------



## PurpleFi

carolknitpal said:


> I just did the prov. cast on and then knitted those, so do I place my marker now on no.65 stitch? now I am ready to do the
> regular cast on until 229 stitch then 64 stitches with prov.again.
> Is this row 1 or 2?


Yes, you are right with the provisional and normal cast ons. This is your cast on row, row 1 is the first knit row.


----------



## PurpleFi

carolknitpal said:


> I just finished casting on and am still do not know what is the right side. also I didn't on the 2nd prov. cast-on because
> I couldn't figure out how to knit on it afterwards


Don't worry too much about right and wrong side. This is only necessary if you do ordinary cast on for round the sleeves as this is where you pick up to knit down to the wrist. If you use provisional you can work down with no problem.


----------



## Designer1234

Patchworkcat said:


> London Girl said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PurpleV said:
> 
> 
> 
> Shirley, I think you deserve a very big thank you for all the effort you put into organizing these workshops. You are truely inspirational. Just look how many people are trying techniques they would never have tried on their own. WELL DONE :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
> 
> 
> 
> Hear, hear!!!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I totally agree!!!
> 
> Jill
Click to expand...

Thank you very much! *we have l800 subscribed KP members as of today*!- so people are learning about us.

There are three of us now -* nrc1940 (Nadene)* joined Rachel and I and will be doing most of the the trimming for us which will make a huge difference - She knows what she is doing and I am very glad to have her on board.

She will be trimming this workshop as well as most of the others. It was getting pretty busy for yours truly - now I can spend more time finding new teachers and looking for more subjects.

This is a great workshop and I appreciate how well it is being run by your two teachers. Thanks to you both

Designer1234 (Shirley)


----------



## wreese

this is the front and back of my jacket so far and i think it just might be way to small to fit me, i was wondering about that earlier but favorite jacket is 30 inches across so divided it by 3 got 10 my stitch count is 5 per inch so 50 and divided by 3 and got 16.6 and i like my clothes big so used 18 for my K took 9x18=162 total stitches pm at 36 and 126


----------



## PurpleFi

wreese said:


> this is the front and back of my jacket so far and i think it just might be way to small to fit me, i was wondering about that earlier but favorite jacket is 30 inches across so divided it by 3 got 10 my stitch count is 5 per inch so 50 and divided by 3 and got 16.6 and i like my clothes big so used 18 for my K took 9x18=162 total stitches pm at 36 and 126


If you go right back to the beginning of this workshop and find the excel chart link that works all the calculations out for you, you will find it very good. All you need is the width you want across (not round) the chest and the number of stitches per inch. The chart works the rest out for you.


----------



## nemcfo

PurpleV said:


> carolknitpal said:
> 
> 
> 
> I just finished casting on and am still do not know what is the right side. also I didn't on the 2nd prov. cast-on because
> I couldn't figure out how to knit on it afterwards
> 
> 
> 
> Don't worry too much about right and wrong side. This is only necessary if you do ordinary cast on for round the sleeves as this is where you pick up to knit down to the wrist. If you use provisional you can work down with no problem.
Click to expand...

Oh no! I used the long tail cast only. Not sure which side I started on. Will I be in trouble when I start to lengthen the sleeves? Hope not as I have finished the dec & inc part and am knitting to the bottom. I've got my fingers crossed!!!


----------



## PurpleFi

knitterrev said:


> For those who did not use a provisional cast on for the sleeves, I say "do not worry!" I just began working on the first sleeve and after a couple of false starts I found the right "bump" on the wrong side of the sleeve to pick up and knit. It looks like a perfect continuation of the knitting. I am pleased.
> 
> Now, my question for the finishing part. I don't really need buttons and so am thinking about a trim all around of seed stitch or attached I-cord. Any wisdom about what might finish the sweater off better?


If you have a look at the beginning of the workshop you will see I am wearing an edge to edge jacket that I finished in moss stitch (which I think is the same as seed stitch) or an i cord would also work. I believe Naneast may have used one. Have a look at the parade of photos of these jackets as there are a lot of different finishes there.


----------



## PurpleFi

janwalla said:


> I am nearly up to putting the 3" on thread at each side for neck. I was wondering if it could be staggered so it looks like a rounded neck instead of a square neckline? Have either of you teachers ever done that?


Hi Janwalla, I put ther 3" (you need that much to take you past the depth of your neck)onto stitch holders and then every row I added one to them from the neck edge to give me a v neck to make the shawl collar. It worked ok. If you look back I wrote out how I did it.


----------



## LoriRuth

LoriRuth said:


> where did you add the extra stitch for each row? I tried finding that collar entry but it will have to wait till I have more time to search back...any body have an idea of page number for it?





PurpleV said:


> Hang on I think I have it in my documents - I'll see if I can find it.
> 
> How to add a shawl collar to a Surprise Jacket
> 
> After you have put the 3 on a spare holder (use a holder instead of a spare piece of yarn as you will be adding stitches to it)
> Continue knitting on the front edge and each time you come to a holder slip a stitch onto it.
> Continue to finish the straight piece of knitting.
> When you want to do the front , neck and bottom band start at one side of the back of the neck. Pick up and knit the stitches across the back of the neck. Continue on these stitches picking up one stitch from the neck edge of the holders on each row. Continue picking up one stitch each row as you knit the stitches off the holder.
> Now carry on knitting the stitches from the front of the jacket, pick up the stitches from the side of the straight bit. Do a double increase, knit along to halfway along the back.
> (CAUTION  This is where I went wrong I thought I would do the whole band in a circle, but if you do that you will have stocking stitch at the band and not garter stitch)
> Next turn your knitting and knit back up the front, across the neck and down the other side and round to the centre back.
> Keep knitting back and forth remembering to do the increases until you have the width of border you require. The shawl collar can either be folder over as I have done or you can do a narrower border and leave it unfolded.
> I hope this explanation is clear, if not let me know and I will try to improve it.
> 
> There you go.


----------



## PurpleFi

wreese said:


> got my cast on finally today after frogging it out again, used the chart at the beginning and it says 450 cast on 100 pm and 350+1 for other marker, got 2 rows of decrease done and this one is way bigger than the one i frogged out lol.


Firstly did you do a swatch on the same size needles you are using, did you use the same stitch? Secondly the cast on goes round one arm at the elbow, up the arm, across the back, down the other arm and round it. So you do start with a lot of stitches.


----------



## janwalla

PurpleV said:


> janwalla said:
> 
> 
> 
> I am nearly up to putting the 3" on thread at each side for neck. I was wondering if it could be staggered so it looks like a rounded neck instead of a square neckline? Have either of you teachers ever done that?
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Janwalla, I put ther 3" (you need that much to take you past the depth of your neck)onto stitch holders and then every row I added one to them from the neck edge to give me a v neck to make the shawl collar. It worked ok. If you look back I wrote out how I did it.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that! A small shawl collar may be better for what I have in mind, I need for it to fold back over on itself with an attached edging.


----------



## Designer1234

knitterrev said:


> For those who did not use a provisional cast on for the sleeves, I say "do not worry!" I just began working on the first sleeve and after a couple of false starts I found the right "bump" on the wrong side of the sleeve to pick up and knit. It looks like a perfect continuation of the knitting. I am pleased.
> 
> Now, my question for the finishing part. I don't really need buttons and so am thinking about a trim all around of seed stitch or attached I-cord. Any wisdom about what might finish the sweater off better?


have you thought of a crochet crab stitch? it is the stitch where you crochet around your jacket backwards - I use it all the time on my cardigans. it is quite attractive and extremely easy to do. you might search it on google or you tube. it is a nice finish. I always use crochet finishing)( at least a goodly part of the time) for my knitting projects.

Designer


----------



## Xiang

Here is an updated photo of my ASJ. The thicker blue yarn is my hand spun yarn. I am not sure if I really like it, but it is staying lol


----------



## knovice knitter

Well, I am taking a week's break...well maybe just a few days. I have cast on over 315 on my needles. I knitted about 34 rows and realized that somewhere along the line, I was decreasing every row instead of just every other row. OK. Frog. Start over, going well. Too many stitches of merciless red heart yarn, so I bought a new set of chio goo needles in 40 inch length and metal tips. Much better. However, now that I can see the sweater better than when it was all bunched up and ruffled on the shorter cable, I discovered I was way off on the placement of the decreases. I believe it is because I put a marker before the decrease instead of on the actual center stitch. Trying not to scream, I must frog again, this time 50 some rows. Oh well. But before I start again, I would like your opinion on which stitch is more appealing to be the right side. I am torn.


----------



## JoyceKnits

jmai5421 said:


> This is probably pretty dumb, but when you decrease for the sleeve are you decreasing on either side of the middle stitch which would be the underarm or are you decreasing at each end which woud be the top side? I am doing the underarm decreasing one stitch either side of the center stitch. Most sweaters decrease at each end but that will eventually be seamed for the under arm. That is where I am confused on this sweater. I have 67 stitche for the sleeve.


You're very clever. I decreased at each end, but if I had thought of it, I would have done it at the underarm, perhaps even one stitch each row instead of a double decrease every other row. Too late for me. I really don't want to frog. 
joyce


----------



## Xiang

knovice knitter said:


> Well, I am taking a week's break...well maybe just a few days. I have cast on over 315 on my needles. I knitted about 34 rows and realized that somewhere along the line, I was decreasing every row instead of just every other row. OK. Frog. Start over, going well. Too many stitches of merciless red heart yarn, so I bought a new set of chio goo needles in 40 inch length and metal tips. Much better. However, now that I can see the sweater better than when it was all bunched up and ruffled on the shorter cable, I discovered I was way off on the placement of the decreases. I believe it is because I put a marker before the decrease instead of on the actual center stitch. Trying not to scream, I must frog again, this time 50 some rows. Oh well. But before I start again, I would like your opinion on which stitch is more appealing to be the right side. I am torn.


The solid stripe looks the best


----------



## London Girl

Dianeks2 said:


> Ok, I did my swatch and my gauge is 4.5 stitches per inch (18 stitches over 4 inches). I used the calculator page and came up with a Key number (38) based on the width of a comfortable sweater (25 inches) and my gauge. I wanted to do the temporary cast-on thingie for the sleeves so I can make them longer, but how much is the sleeve bottom and how much would I do a regular cable cast-on?
> 
> Diane


Diane, you are doing just fine! The first and last portions of your cast on, i.e. the the chunk before the first decrease and the chunk after the second decrease, are your sleeve edges. Hope this helps!!


----------



## PurpleFi

carmenl said:


> I am at the center section with 6 times my key number, which adds up to 240, actually I'm one stitch short. Okay, it says to continue on these center stitches only. Does that mean to put the stitches on the out side of the increases on scrap yarn, and continue knitting the 240 stitches in the middle? I find this pattern soooo............. confusing.
> HELP!!!!!


Yes you are right, you are now going to knit down to the length you want the jacket to be, less a bit for the bands.


----------



## PurpleFi

carolknitpal said:


> If I get anymore confused, I will never get started,just cast on -now the pattern says slp first st,do you do this on the adult one ,I want to make my sleeves longer afterwards I don't a cuff at my elbows


Yes you do slip the first stitch for the adult jacket. Have a lot at the beginning of the workshop as there are lots of hints about casting on.


----------



## PurpleFi

carolknitpal said:


> What is the u-tube site that purple-v does the dbl dec? I can't seem to find it again. Thank you


I think I used You tube for the provisional cast on. The double decrease I used was slip 1, k 2 tog and pass slip stitch over. Does that help?


----------



## PurpleFi

LoriRuth said:


> OK I have a couple questions...when we go to put the 3 inches on wool we have to knit back to the end of the 3 inches on one side so your working yarn is in the right spot to continue knitting right? Then it looks like we put E-A and F-B on wool as well once we knit our 6 x K section. Am I reading this right? parts put on the pieces of wool in two different sections?


Well done you, you are absolutely correct. I actually put those stitches on a spare cable and just changed the needles round, it saves slipping them off onto the wool. Sounds as if you are doing really well.


----------



## PurpleFi

shirley m said:


> Hi Purple, I have reached the flap stage, and my measure only gives me a flap of about 10 rows. ( I am short). I had hoped to put a couple of stripes, so will that work still? or maybe best left in the variegated st.st? It really is very bright! Shirley M.


Well done. It the stripes don't match in with the rest then best to do the variagated and you can do the finished band in the plain. We shall see you coming!


----------



## PurpleFi

janwalla said:


> still here and still knitting!! I am shaping the neck edge for a v How far do I keep slipping the stitches? is it until I reach the K6 then do I just keep knitting to get the length?


I did the v on the front band.


----------



## PurpleFi

shirley m said:


> I have a dilemma! I did a provisional cast on to be able to try a kitchener seam at the shoulders. Now I am wondering about neatest way to pick up fronts to achieve this aim. I would appreciate some help, please. Shirley M.


The fronts are just the stitches you have put on spare wool, so just pick up and knit.


----------



## PurpleFi

yarnwithcats said:


> Any suggestions for doing the shoulder seam. My slipped stitches are really loose, and I think the seam will be messy.


Use mattress stitch and pick up the first stitch after the slipped stitch.


----------



## PurpleFi

nemcfo said:


> I've finished the increases and decreases and knitted the body as long as I need. Now what?


You start picking up the stitches on the fronts and neck and do your bands. Just follow the pattern through. It does work.


----------



## PurpleFi

carolknitpal said:


> I'm back and having problems,when I get to the end of dec. what stitches do I count? I start with cast on 293st,mark 65 and 229 My K#is 33 ,knit till there are 163st.do I count the 65 & 64 at each end plus the middle stitches? or just the middle stitches? I am very sorry that I am having a hard time understanding this, but I sure would love you trying to set me straight. I have read and reread page 11 but am still having problems. Thank you very much.


You count the total number of stitches at the end of the decrease and then do the increase back to the original number of stitches.


----------



## PurpleFi

nemcfo said:


> PurpleFi said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nemcfo said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've finished the increases and decreases and knitted the body as long as I need. Now what?
> 
> 
> 
> You start picking up the stitches on the fronts and neck and do your bands. Just follow the pattern through. It does work.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Sorry for being so dense!...does this include all the stitches already on the needles from the body?
Click to expand...

If you look at the diagrams on pages 6 and 7 you will see which stitches you pick up. The band does not go across the back of the neck unless you want to. My jacket has a shawl collar so I did it a little differently from the pattern.


----------



## Designer1234

Designer here. I just wanted to say what a great job you are all doing. some beautiful sweaters are appearing. I know it will be worth it.

*Once we get a couple done I will open a 'PARADE' So, teachers, let me know when you want me to do that*. Shirley


----------



## joand

Wow! I'm finally ready to pick up the stitches for the front bands! My GD is here and she loves it! I've made it a good jacket length, and I'm going to attempt an Icord to join the sleeve seam.
My questions now are: Do I increase at the lower front corners as I knit the bands? It seems that I should to maintain the square shape of the front. What happens to the back neck? If it isn't included in the front bands, how does it get finished? I'm thinking it will just end with a bind-off? That doesn't seem right.


----------



## PurpleFi

joand said:


> Wow! I'm finally ready to pick up the stitches for the front bands! My GD is here and she loves it! I've made it a good jacket length, and I'm going to attempt an Icord to join the sleeve seam.
> My questions now are: Do I increase at the lower front corners as I knit the bands? It seems that I should to maintain the square shape of the front. What happens to the back neck? If it isn't included in the front bands, how does it get finished? I'm thinking it will just end with a bind-off? That doesn't seem right.


Yes you do increase at the lower edges to keep them square. On the pattern it looks like the back neck is just a bind off, but I carried on the band across the neck both in the first one I did and the one with the shawl collar.
By the way, I love your colours.


----------



## Designer1234

Hi everyone! *Let me know when you want me to open a Parade of Surprise jackets. once you have a few nearly or completely finished. I will open it - put in a picture of one of them and you can all post yours there. just pm me teachers when you think you are ready*.


----------



## donna47304

joand said:


> PurpleFi said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> joand said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you. How did you carry the band across? Do I just continue around the neck and pick up a number of stitches for the back neck to form the band?
> 
> 
> 
> I did an i-cord band as my jacket was wide enough. I picked up stitches and went right across the back band, but now the back neck is too wide. I'm trying to decide if I should take out the i-cord there and single crochet across the back first which will draw it in more, and then icord after that.
> 
> I'm so close to finishing but have to get that back neck done right. Time to move to some other workshops although this one was wonderful with some super results!
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## PurpleFi

joand said:


> PurpleFi said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> joand said:
> 
> 
> 
> Wow! I'm finally ready to pick up the stitches for the front bands! My GD is here and she loves it! I've made it a good jacket length, and I'm going to attempt an Icord to join the sleeve seam.
> My questions now are: Do I increase at the lower front corners as I knit the bands? It seems that I should to maintain the square shape of the front. What happens to the back neck? If it isn't included in the front bands, how does it get finished? I'm thinking it will just end with a bind-off? That doesn't seem right.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes you do increase at the lower edges to keep them square. On the pattern it looks like the back neck is just a bind off, but I carried on the band across the neck both in the first one I did and the one with the shawl collar.
> By the way, I love your colours.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thank you. How did you carry the band across? Do I just continue around the neck and pick up a number of stitches for the back neck to form the band?
Click to expand...

Yes I picked up stitches across the neck and continued around the neck. If the neck is too wide either use smaller needles to pick up and stitch the first row across the neck or draw the neck in by knitting a few stitches together spaced across the neck.


----------



## PurpleFi

donna47304 said:


> joand said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PurpleFi said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> joand said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you. How did you carry the band across? Do I just continue around the neck and pick up a number of stitches for the back neck to form the band?
> 
> 
> 
> I did an i-cord band as my jacket was wide enough. I picked up stitches and went right across the back band, but now the back neck is too wide. I'm trying to decide if I should take out the i-cord there and single crochet across the back first which will draw it in more, and then icord after that.
> 
> I'm so close to finishing but have to get that back neck done right. Time to move to some other workshops although this one was wonderful with some super results!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I know it's a bind undoing it but I think you will be happier if you draw it in a bit and then do the icord.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## London Girl

joand said:


> London Girl said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> joand said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just re-read page 6 and I see that I do increase at the bottom corners and work a double dc at the inner neck corners.
> 
> 
> 
> Increase at the outer corners of the centre-fronts as well!!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Do you mean there are two increase corners? I meant the lower front corners-- do I also have to increase the upper front corners? (E and F on page 6 diagram).
Click to expand...

Yes you do or you won't get defined corners, they will curl up!!!


----------



## London Girl

Linda C. said:


> Help!! I'm feeling confused again! I started with 312 stitches, decreased to 173, then back up to 312. Then put 3" of stitches on stitch holders on each end and continued increases between markers to 208. I believe it is long enough for me right now--measured against another top I like. When I read pg. 6 again, was I supposed to also have other stitches (E-A and F-B) reserved on stitch holders or yarn already, waiting to be worked later? Or is now when I do that??
> I can finally see the sweater taking shape---waited forever for that!! I hope you can guide me to the finish, because the pattern is "Over My Head". Thank you


I know, it is tricky because it is so different from what we are used to knitting but you're nearly there!! Actually, having said that, you are quite right, you should have put each side of your work, before and after the decrease/increase stitches, on stitch holders or pieces of yarn and just continued on the centre panel for the length you need. Hope you don't have to frog too far back and don't give up!!


----------



## London Girl

Saroj said:


> London Girl said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saroj said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hello ladies,
> 
> I am back with my finished length. Now I need to finish with v neck. Can purple fi guide me to the page where u posted instructions for v finish neckline.
> 
> Saroj
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Saroj, here it is page 20 if you need it again!)
> How to add a shawl collar to a Surprise Jacket
> 
> After you have put the 3 on a spare holder (use a holder instead of a spare piece of yarn as you will be adding stitches to it)
> Continue knitting on the front edge and each time you come to a holder slip a stitch onto it.
> Continue to finish the straight piece of knitting.
> When you want to do the front , neck and bottom band start at one side of the back of the neck. Pick up and knit the stitches across the back of the neck. Continue on these stitches picking up one stitch from the neck edge of the holders on each row. Continue picking up one stitch each row as you knit the stitches off the holder.
> Now carry on knitting the stitches from the front of the jacket, pick up the stitches from the side of the straight bit. Do a double increase, knit along to halfway along the back.
> [CAUTION  This is where I went wrong I thought I would do the whole band in a circle, but if you do that you will have stocking stitch at the band and not garter stitch]
> Next turn your knitting and knit back up the front, across the neck and down the other side and round to the centre back.
> Keep knitting back and forth remembering to do the increases until you have the width of border you require. The shawl collar can either be folder over as I have done or you can do a narrower border and leave it unfolded.
> I hope this explanation is clear, if not let me know and I will try to improve it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> i am a little confused. where do i start picking up the stiches. do i finish the sleeves first and than work on the collar. how do i work the back neck?
Click to expand...

Saroj, not sure I can help you here as this was PurpleFi's invention but from what I am reading here, you 'collect' one stitch at every row end from the 3" you have on the stitch holders. As for the rest of your question, leave it with me and I will try and contact PurpleFi for an answer. Sorry this is the best I can do for now!!


----------



## London Girl

Hi Saroj! The answer is 'Yes', finish the sleeves first, including, I guess, knitting the extensions then sew up the seam and then continue with your band/shawl collar, picking up the stitches along the back neck. Hope this helps!!


----------



## London Girl

Linda C. said:


> I still can't see where it tells how/when/how many stitches to put on a holder other than the first 3 inches. Can you tell me when, so I know how far back to go, or is it after I increase to 208 st. between markers? I can't make heads or tails of the pattern at this point--Help?


After you put your 3" of stitches on yarn or holders, you continue increasing at the same points until your middle section is approx. twice the desired width of the sweater. THEN you put all the stitches before and after the increases onto holders/yarn and continue knitting straight on the centre section only until the work is the length you require (ie finished length of the jacket) Hope this helps!


----------



## London Girl

Linda C. said:


> The diagram on page 13 did help some. Does it make a difference how many rows you work for the length? It seemed like it was nearly long enough before putting E-A and F-B on holders, but I did go ahead and knit a few rows on the length. Now what?
> Sorry I seem so dense, but just don't want to have to rip out, since I finally feel like the end is near!! Thanks for the help!


Well done, Keep going!! Page 6. halfway down on left explains the next step much better than I could!! Good luck!


----------



## London Girl

sandease said:


> I've finished the decreases and need help with the increases. Mine don't look like everyone else's. Please show me how to make them look right. Do I increase on the right side or the wrong side. If I do it on the front, the "pattern" or "design" appears on the back side so I'm doing something wrong. Can you post step-by-step photos?


I'm so sorry, I don't have step by step photos but if you look at page 3 of this tutorial, there are pictures showing how it should look. Whatever side you decreased on, then you should increase on the same side. Pick up the horizontal loop _before_ your centre stitch and knit into the back of it. Knit your centre stitch (don't forget to keep a moveable marker on this stitch to keep it constant!) Now pick up the horizontal stitch _after_ the centre stitch and knit into the back of it. On the return row, purl the centre stitch. Hope this helps. let me know if there is anything else I can help you with!


----------



## sandease

Thank you. Telling me what to do on the return row solvedd my problem. I was knitting it and changing it to a purl stitch is giving me the desired results. So simple, but something I couldn't figure out on my own. You Rock!



London Girl said:


> I'm so sorry, I don't have step by step photos but if you look at page 3 of this tutorial, there are pictures showing how it should look. Whatever side you decreased on, then you should increase on the same side. Pick up the horizontal loop _before_ your centre stitch and knit into the back of it. Knit your centre stitch (don't forget to keep a moveable marker on this stitch to keep it constant!) Now pick up the horizontal stitch _after_ the centre stitch and knit into the back of it. On the return row, purl the centre stitch. Hope this helps. let me know if there is anything else I can help you with!


----------



## donna47304

London Girl said:


> Quite right, don't want you all getting fed up with those lovely jackets!!!


Well, I'm not fed up . . . but I'm sooooo glad this is finished so I'm released to try some other projects. I enjoyed this workshop and all the help and hints we received. I will also enjoy wearing this jacket while we wait for our spring warm-up.

I cropped as much of the bathroom as I could from this photo, but you know how those self-pictures work . . . have to use a large mirror.

Anyway, thanks to everyone in this workshop for all the help and encouragement.


----------



## Designer1234

That is a gorgeous sweater. It fits you perfectly, and I agree you do look like London Girl.

Sorry I haven't dropped by, but just got my stitches out from my surgery - glad that is done with and now back to normal. 

London Girl, as usual this workshop is going along smoothly. Shirley


----------



## Xiang

Londy & donna47304, here you are together


----------



## London Girl

carolknitpal said:


> my pattern also says knit 3 rows without shaping. but I am confused when it said to increase , but what does 1m mean, and how do you do it?


I believe it says that on one of the baby surprise patterns? 1m means 'make one' and you do that by picking up the horizontal loop between stitches and knitting into the back of it. Do this on either side of your marked centre stitch


----------



## London Girl

Diane D said:


> Maybe i should start with the baby version first.....


Sorry you are having problems Diane but good on you for try, try, trying again!! EZ does recommend knitting the baby jacket first although of all the four jackets I've done in total, none of them made any sense until I had cast them off!! I can only suggest that when you feel ready to start again, you read through the pattern several times and maybe make notes of the salient points as you read. And don't worry, we're here until we drop!!!


----------



## London Girl

Saroj said:


> I did provisional cast for the whole top length. Now I need to close the top. What method should I use? Whip stich, icord bind off? If I choose icord, how do I do. Do icord on both sides and than sew together?


I'm not an expert on i-cord Saroj, I just overstitched mine


----------



## London Girl

Andrea in TN said:


> I am not finished either :thumbdown: :thumbdown: I went out of town but I'm back on it now!! Someone please tell me I m doing this right--- when I am increasing I am adding 4 stitches every other row--- one stitch on each side of the two constant stitches--- please tell me Im right :lol: :lol: 14 more increase rows to go and then I'll prob have more questions!!


Yes, you are quite correct Andrea, keep going!!!


----------



## Saroj

Here are my bsj. Still working on asj


----------



## PurpleFi

Andrea in TN said:


> oh it is beautiful and I can't wait to get there!!! I loved working on this project and I will love finishing it. I have tried to stay dedicated to it (mostly) because I know myself pretty well after 66 years and if I had ever really put it down it would have ended up in the yarn closet of doom with a few UFOs that were going on and on. I will probably do this pattern again because it is fun to do -- but I have decided to stick to smaller sizes- one for me is enough. I am a size 16 and it feels like I have been working 16 years to complete this beauty. I will send another picture as soon as I get the increases complete and the sides on cables.


That sounds great, so glad you have stuck with it. My 4yr old gd really loves her jacket. Here's a photo of it.


----------



## PurpleFi

janwalla said:


> I've nearly got to the required length maybe another 4". Then Ill have the sleeves and lastly the trim around.(when I can make a decision which one!! This seems to be taking forever!! Im just not used to knitting for my size!!
> 
> Im not sure I like how the sleeves are either! I think they could have been a bit wider. Would it be possible to cast on and knit a strip of about 2" wide and sew it onto both sides to join sleeves, or would it be better to pick up along one edge and knit about 2" then sew it onto one side???


You have to consider how you want the sleeve to be at the cuff. When I knitted down I decreased every 8th row to the wrist. Also if you add a 2 inch strip it will make the neck wider. I suggest you measure the armhole depth of a jumper that fits ok and then fold and measure you jacket to see if there is any difference.


----------



## PurpleFi

Andrea in TN said:


> so pretty and so nice of you to make it for her--- I have 10 grandchildren and 5 great grandhildren so there are prob a few more of these sweaters in my future


That should keep you busy for a while :thumbup:


----------



## PurpleFi

Saroj said:


> Beautiful jacket. Love the colors. Saroj


Thank you, her favourite colour is also purple.


----------



## PurpleFi

carolknitpal said:


> wooooo!! am I crazy or what? (probably both) I only increased once on the right side of the 2 markers, so do I inc. on both sides of the marker? By my count I only inc. 2 st.every second row, not 4
> Also when I dec. I only dec.2 stitches per every 2nd row. Is this right or not.
> 
> Please tell me what to do. Start frogging???


Hope you are sitting down while reading this! Sorry but you need to increase either side of the markers 4sts every 2 rows and decrease the same either side of the marker. Do you need help frogging? Play some soothing music and have a glass of wine.


----------



## janwalla

jmai5421 said:


> That is what I am finding Jan. My sleeves at the underarm are at least an inch narrower than my favorite sweater. I am hopeful my I-cord bind off will add a little more. I never thought of the sleeves getting any larger when I block. I am using acrylic which doesn't get too much larger with blocking. I am going to finish it anyway and see where I have to enlarge with the next sweater/jacket. I want to make one in stockinette with a shawl collar and maybe lining like PurpleFi. I know that it has to be larger to accomodate the lining but will know how much by the fit of this one. Then I have to consider that I am doing this one in garter. There is so much to consider and decide with this sweater/jacket.
> Good luck with yours. Please keep posting what you are doing to make it work.
> Judy


It could just be my flabby bat wings!! Ill have to do some exercise with some baked bean tins lol Ill keep everyone informed re my sleeve saga!! :thumbup: :lol: :lol:


----------



## PurpleFi

Saroj said:


> Here is what I did. I had provisional cast of all the stitches. I was at a cross road what to do next. I did not know how long the sleeves I have to do so I put the st on a yarn and picked up the Sts on one side every ridge which gave me 73 Sts. I knitted one row and than did 3 needle bind off. Tried the sleeve and it fits perfect. Now I am going to do the other side. I will finish the neck as per purplefi jacket. And than do the sleeves in a circular to knit one row and purl one row to give garter st effect to fit my size.


That all sounds very good. Looking forward to seeing the photos.


----------



## Saroj

I tried the jacket it is too long need to rip 2". Sleeves came out good. Now to front finishing


----------



## London Girl

Saroj said:


> I tried the jacket it is too long need to rip 2". Sleeves came out good. Now to front finishing


I really like your colours, they look great together, won't be long before you finish it!!!


----------



## JoyceKnits

Spring has arrived and I won't need to wear a warm sweater for a while, but I finally finished. I haven't blocked yet. It was fun to knit, and somewhat challenging. I'm still not sure if I love the way it looks on, but I will wear it. I had done the baby one before and it was a quick knit. This was not so quick. I guess that's because I'm much bigger than my baby grandson was when I knitted it for him.  I bought the pattern a couple of years ago but was reluctant to start. Thanks so much for doing this workshop and for inspiring me to tackle it.


----------



## London Girl

joycegordon said:


> Spring has arrived and I won't need to wear a warm sweater for a while, but I finally finished. I haven't blocked yet. It was fun to knit, and somewhat challenging. I'm still not sure if I love the way it looks on, but I will wear it. I had done the baby one before and it was a quick knit. This was not so quick. I guess that's because I'm much bigger than my baby grandson was when I knitted it for him.  I bought the pattern a couple of years ago but was reluctant to start. Thanks so much for doing this workshop and for inspiring me to tackle it.


I think it looks wonderful! Thanks for taking the workshop, so glad you enjoyed it!


----------



## Linda C.

Nice going, Joyce. Looks good! I keep watching and paying close attention to how everyone is finishing their necklines. I don't want a collar, debated on a hood, decided no, so I just keep watching, trying to come up with a "plan" and I'm still not sure. How did you do your neckline--continue from front band or separately? My neckline definitely seems too large--I need to bring it in considerably, but just not quite ready to tackle that yet. I had some Easter stuff I had to do, now it's just getting it in my mind how to finish up. Anxious to get my jacket finished! 
Congratulations to you for finishing up!


----------



## donna47304

Saroj's and Joyce's jackets are lovely. Saroj, I like your stripe pattern with small stripes in the body and wider stripes in the sleeves.

Joyce, your yarn looks interesting and I like the garter stitch collar. Very pleasing color.


----------



## darowil

Well I took about 24 hours off from Kp so I could actually get some knitting and reading done. Set myself a few goals- all of which I met! including getting the increasing finished on the ASJ. So here it is- and now I see where it is all going! Only managed to sort it out 3/4 of the way through the increases. Now I guess I will slow down again as I am back spending hours on KP!

And I see a couple of beutiful looking finished ones have appeared while I was absent.


----------



## Xiang

joycegordon said:


> Spring has arrived and I won't need to wear a warm sweater for a while, but I finally finished. I haven't blocked yet. It was fun to knit, and somewhat challenging. I'm still not sure if I love the way it looks on, but I will wear it. I had done the baby one before and it was a quick knit. This was not so quick. I guess that's because I'm much bigger than my baby grandson was when I knitted it for him.  I bought the pattern a couple of years ago but was reluctant to start. Thanks so much for doing this workshop and for inspiring me to tackle it.


Very pretty Joyce


----------



## Xiang

Saroj said:


> Here are my bsj. Still working on asj


They are all beautiful ...... One of my DD's has just purchases a cardigan with the same colour scheme as the black/stripe jacket - that always looks stunning :thumbup:


----------



## Xiang

I have had a disappointing half hour, tonight. I was just spinning some more yarn, to use in my jacket (I need 2 more balls of my homespun yarn), and everything was going well ....... I had almost filled up one spool, and getting ready to spin another spool, when the spool began falling off :? I checked the screw that secured the end handle, and discovered that the screw, and the hole, were not fitting together anymore ..... So now I am waiting for some hole filling stuff to harden, so that DH can put that it back on, so that I can continue spinning. If that doesn't work, we will need to sort something else out. I don't really want to get a new wheel, until I am more comfortable with spinning, but if I need to do this, then I will get the one I want (a dual pedal wheel) - please keep your fingers crossed for the repair to be successful


----------



## London Girl

Linda C. said:


> Nice going, Joyce. Looks good! I keep watching and paying close attention to how everyone is finishing their necklines. I don't want a collar, debated on a hood, decided no, so I just keep watching, trying to come up with a "plan" and I'm still not sure. How did you do your neckline--continue from front band or separately? My neckline definitely seems too large--I need to bring it in considerably, but just not quite ready to tackle that yet. I had some Easter stuff I had to do, now it's just getting it in my mind how to finish up. Anxious to get my jacket finished!
> Congratulations to you for finishing up!


You do right to take your time to consider all the options Linda, I'm sure you'll be happy with whatever you choose!!


----------



## London Girl

darowil said:


> Well I took about 24 hours off from Kp so I could actually get some knitting and reading done. Set myself a few goals- all of which I met! including getting the increasing finished on the ASJ. So here it is- and now I see where it is all going! Only managed to sort it out 3/4 of the way through the increases. Now I guess I will slow down again as I am back spending hours on KP!
> 
> And I see a couple of beutiful looking finished ones have appeared while I was absent.


That's coming along very nicely, really looking forward to seeing the finished article!


----------



## London Girl

Xiang said:


> I have had a disappointing half hour, tonight. I was just spinning some more yarn, to use in my jacket (I need 2 more balls of my homespun yarn), and everything was going well ....... I had almost filled up one spool, and getting ready to spin another spool, when the spool began falling off :? I checked the screw that secured the end handle, and discovered that the screw, and the hole, were not fitting together anymore ..... So now I am waiting for some hole filling stuff to harden, so that DH can put that it back on, so that I can continue spinning. If that doesn't work, we will need to sort something else out. I don't really want to get a new wheel, until I am more comfortable with spinning, but if I need to do this, then I will get the one I want (a dual pedal wheel) - please keep your fingers crossed for the repair to be successful


Oh I hope it worked Judi, I know you are not ready to move on yet, hopefully the repair will tide you over for a little longer, everything crossed!!!


----------



## PurpleFi

joycegordon said:


> Spring has arrived and I won't need to wear a warm sweater for a while, but I finally finished. I haven't blocked yet. It was fun to knit, and somewhat challenging. I'm still not sure if I love the way it looks on, but I will wear it. I had done the baby one before and it was a quick knit. This was not so quick. I guess that's because I'm much bigger than my baby grandson was when I knitted it for him.  I bought the pattern a couple of years ago but was reluctant to start. Thanks so much for doing this workshop and for inspiring me to tackle it.


That looks really lovely. I am sure it will look lovely on too.


----------



## PurpleFi

darowil said:


> Well I took about 24 hours off from Kp so I could actually get some knitting and reading done. Set myself a few goals- all of which I met! including getting the increasing finished on the ASJ. So here it is- and now I see where it is all going! Only managed to sort it out 3/4 of the way through the increases. Now I guess I will slow down again as I am back spending hours on KP!
> 
> And I see a couple of beutiful looking finished ones have appeared while I was absent.


That's coming along well, lovel the colours.


----------



## PurpleFi

Linda C. said:


> Nice going, Joyce. Looks good! I keep watching and paying close attention to how everyone is finishing their necklines. I don't want a collar, debated on a hood, decided no, so I just keep watching, trying to come up with a "plan" and I'm still not sure. How did you do your neckline--continue from front band or separately? My neckline definitely seems too large--I need to bring it in considerably, but just not quite ready to tackle that yet. I had some Easter stuff I had to do, now it's just getting it in my mind how to finish up. Anxious to get my jacket finished!
> Congratulations to you for finishing up!


Here's a couple of other collarways. The edge to edge one I did not decrease at the side of the neck and I did pick up from the back of the neck.
I did the same for the collared one but kept going and did some increases.


----------



## Linda C.

PurpleFi said:


> Here's a couple of other collarways. The edge to edge one I did not decrease at the side of the neck and I did pick up from the back of the neck.
> I did the same for the collared one but kept going and did some increases.


On the first one, did you continue the band up around the fronts, and continue around the neck, or did you complete the front bands, then pick up stitches for around the neck. I wonder about how many stitches I'd pick up around the neck??


----------



## jmai5421

Linda C. said:


> On the first one, did you continue the band up around the fronts, and continue around the neck, or did you complete the front bands, then pick up stitches for around the neck. I wonder about how many stitches I'd pick up around the neck??


I wonder the same. I am almost done with the second sleeve(took some time off ot do a dead fish hat) and then I will be at that point, after I put the shoulders together.


----------



## jmai5421

Joyce, Saroj and Darowil you jackets are georgeous. I love all the colors. It is so neat to see what colors can be put together and how they look. They are all so neat. I need to go upstairs now and work on mine.


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## janwalla

Love all your jackets the colours are all so different, but oh so effective! 
Ive got all sorts of bits on cables hanging and not sure what bit to knit up first lol!


----------



## PurpleFi

Linda C. said:


> On the first one, did you continue the band up around the fronts, and continue around the neck, or did you complete the front bands, then pick up stitches for around the neck. I wonder about how many stitches I'd pick up around the neck??


I did the front bands first leaving the stitches on holders and then picked up from them and up and around a neck. Refer to your swatch to get an idea of the number of stitches you need to pick up for the back of the neck.


----------



## PurpleFi

janwalla said:


> Love all your jackets the colours are all so different, but oh so effective!
> Ive got all sorts of bits on cables hanging and not sure what bit to knit up first lol!


Shout if you need some help.


----------



## Saroj

jmai5421 said:


> Joyce, Saroj and Darowil you jackets are georgeous. I love all the colors. It is so neat to see what colors can be put together and how they look. They are all so neat. I need to go upstairs now and work on mine.


We want to see yours.


----------



## Saroj

PurpleFi said:


> I did the front bands first leaving the stitches on holders and then picked up from them and up and around a neck. Refer to your swatch to get an idea of the number of stitches you need to pick up for the back of the neck.


I could not figure out how to do the neck like yours. I started the square too.


----------



## PurpleFi

Saroj said:


> I could not figure out how to do the neck like yours. I started the square too.


Let me know if you need more help.


----------



## Andrea in TN

London Girl said:


> That's coming along very nicely, really looking forward to seeing the finished article!


thank you---- you helped me too!!!! 4 more increae rows that I might manage to get done tonight -- I hope I hope--- and then we should get to the rest of the story


----------



## Xiang

London Girl said:


> Oh I hope it worked Judi, I know you are not ready to move on yet, hopefully the repair will tide you over for a little longer, everything crossed!!!


Thanks, Londy ..... The repair worked, so I can now finish spinning the yarn I need for my jacket ..... That also means I have more time to save for a new wheel :thumbup:


----------



## London Girl

Xiang said:


> Thanks, Londy ..... The repair worked, so I can now finish spinning the yarn I need for my jacket ..... That also means I have more time to save for a new wheel :thumbup:


Yay!!!!


----------



## jmai5421

Help! I am doing the jacket in garter stitch. I have picked up the stitches for the shoulder by picking up just the bumps. I have 250 rows in the shoulder from the neck stitches on a holder to my cuff. I picked up 123 bumps and then added the first stitch still on the needle from the cuff and the first stitch on the holder for the neck giving me 125 stitches on the needle. Should I use the first live stitches in the join or just have 123 stitches for the join? I am going to do an i cord join(I hope). Is this the way to pick up garter stitch stitches? I want the i cord smooth and not pulled. I will check out you tube to find out how to do the i cord join or does
anyone know of anyother video with the instructions for the i cord join?
Thanks
Judy
I will post when I am finished with the jacket.


----------



## jmai5421

I did it! I figured out the I-cord join with the help of several books and the internet. I have one shoulder done and am resting my arm and weaving in the end pieces from all the color change and then I will tackle the other shoulder.
Thanks
Judy


----------



## PurpleFi

Well done. Looks like you are on the home straight now.


----------



## London Girl

jmai5421 said:


> I did it! I figured out the I-cord join with the help of several books and the internet. I have one shoulder done and am resting my arm and weaving in the end pieces from all the color change and then I will tackle the other shoulder.
> Thanks
> Judy


Well done! I think it's great when you can work something out for yourself, a wonderful feeling of triumph and self-worth!!!!


----------



## Andrea in TN

the day has arrived!! My increases are complete!!!! I will try to send a pic later today. Has anyone ever done a crochet type bind off? My last rows are with a Nubby yarn and I don't think stitch definition will be an issue


----------



## Saroj

PurpleFi said:


> Here's a couple of other collarways. The edge to edge one I did not decrease at the side of the neck and I did pick up from the back of the neck.
> I did the same for the collared one but kept going and did some increases.


I loved your finish. I am ripping the last two rows and copying your finish. Do the front bands first and than do the top. I missed your post earlier.


----------



## janwalla

Well!!! I eventually managed to pick up and knit the two fronts so they looked the same I must have frogged 3 to 4 times. I dont know what I did but I kept getting 2 knit rows together but only on one section of the jacket. Initially I tried to knit around two fronts and along the bottom. Ive ended up cords along the bottom. cords along both fronts after knitting about 10 rows on each. (Thank heavens for Knit Pro's interchangeable!!) I haven't sewn the sleeves together yet as I still need to increase there somehow. If i pick up along the back of the sleeve straight along the neck and down the other sleeve would i still be ale to pick up to finish the neck? Is that what Joyce did? It looks like her jacket turned out really nice??


----------



## JoyceKnits

janwalla said:


> If i pick up along the back of the sleeve straight along the neck and down the other sleeve would i still be ale to pick up to finish the neck? Is that what Joyce did? It looks like her jacket turned out really nice??


That's exactly what I did, and I did it before I lengthened the sleeves. That made the sleeves pretty wide, so I decreased as I lengthened them. Here's the trick. I knitted with worsted weight yarn, and the whole thing is more like a jacket than a sweater. If I had focused on that, I would not have narrowed the sleeves quite as much. But...I'm not redoing it. I'm going to wear it today.
joyce


----------



## PurpleFi

Andrea in TN said:


> the day has arrived!! My increases are complete!!!! I will try to send a pic later today. Has anyone ever done a crochet type bind off? My last rows are with a Nubby yarn and I don't think stitch definition will be an issue


Ive crocheted the edge on a baby jacket.


----------



## London Girl

Andrea in TN said:


> I forgot to add--- woot woot. success hurray for me!!!


I second that!!!!


----------



## jmai5421

Andrea in TN said:


> I forgot to add--- woot woot. success hurray for me!!!


Great, anxious to see the finished product.


----------



## PurpleFi

Andrea in TN said:


> I forgot to add--- woot woot. success hurray for me!!!


And I third that. Well done.


----------



## LoriRuth

has it been pretty quiet here or did me notices stop?

I need a few more rows to the bottom edge then I seriously need to decide on an edging.


----------



## Andrea in TN

well I think I have finally figured out to send a picture of my almost finished jacket. A friend is going to help me with the lining and I think I will just do a simple neckband and some type of simple closure at the front---- just at the top so I can wrap it around me any which way I choose. It is warm and soft and I love it. I will send another picture along after it is finally complete maybe by next week. The lining will take a little longer cause I am not a seamtress but thankfully my friend is. Anyway , here goes


----------



## joand

I'm working on the bands now. I guess the best thing is to use EZ's One Row Buttonhole, so I'll give it a shot. I know I should have bought the buttons first, but I'm so anxious to get on with this jacket and see it done! Wish me luck!


----------



## Andrea in TN

joand said:


> I'm working on the bands now. I guess the best thing is to use EZ's One Row Buttonhole, so I'll give it a shot. I know I should have bought the buttons first, but I'm so anxious to get on with this jacket and see it done! Wish me luck!


I do wish you luck----- I elected to just bind off the sides and put a simple closure in the front. I just wanted to reach the end and didn't have any more patience for learning any thing else hahahaha
I also want to say thank you to our kind and patient teachers-- I doubt I would have made it thru this one without help.. EZ was a genius- I am not hahahaha


----------



## jmai5421

joand said:


> I'm working on the bands now. I guess the best thing is to use EZ's One Row Buttonhole, so I'll give it a shot. I know I should have bought the buttons first, but I'm so anxious to get on with this jacket and see it done! Wish me luck!


I did EZ's buttonholes. They are not that hard and turn out nice. I just did 3 stitch instead of 4. I also bought the buttons and then decided to try them. They are too small
  . At least they were not expensive. I am going to wear the jacket to buy the next set of buttons.


----------



## jmai5421

Andrea in TN said:


> well I think I have finally figured out to send a picture of my almost finished jacket. A friend is going to help me with the lining and I think I will just do a simple neckband and some type of simple closure at the front---- just at the top so I can wrap it around me any which way I choose. It is warm and soft and I love it. I will send another picture along after it is finally complete maybe by next week. The lining will take a little longer cause I am not a seamtress but thankfully my friend is. Anyway , here goes


Love your jacket the colors and the textures.
Mine is done except for one cuff. I will post a picture tomorrow. It should be done except for the buttons. The sleeves are a little snug and maybe I should have been more generous with my measurements. My next one will be a little larger. This one is nice and warm. I think I will be wearing it a lot this spring.
Thank you PurpleFi and LondonGirl for this awesome workshop. You have been so patient with us. I bouoght the pattern a few years ago but never would have been able to make the jacket without your help.
Thanks you
Judy


----------



## PurpleFi

Andrea in TN said:


> well I think I have finally figured out to send a picture of my almost finished jacket. A friend is going to help me with the lining and I think I will just do a simple neckband and some type of simple closure at the front---- just at the top so I can wrap it around me any which way I choose. It is warm and soft and I love it. I will send another picture along after it is finally complete maybe by next week. The lining will take a little longer cause I am not a seamtress but thankfully my friend is. Anyway , here goes


That is looking lovely. Let me know if you need any help with the lining. If your friend is a seamstress she will know about leaving room for ease I am sure.


----------



## PurpleFi

jmai5421 said:


> Love your jacket the colors and the textures.
> Mine is done except for one cuff. I will post a picture tomorrow. It should be done except for the buttons. The sleeves are a little snug and maybe I should have been more generous with my measurements. My next one will be a little larger. This one is nice and warm. I think I will be wearing it a lot this spring.
> Thank you PurpleFi and LondonGirl for this awesome workshop. You have been so patient with us. I bouoght the pattern a few years ago but never would have been able to make the jacket without your help.
> Thanks you
> Judy


You are more than welcome. So glad you are planning to make another one. We have really enjoyed doing the workshop.


----------



## PurpleFi

jmai5421 said:


> I did EZ's buttonholes. They are not that hard and turn out nice. I just did 3 stitch instead of 4. I also bought the buttons and then decided to try them. They are too small
> . At least they were not expensive. I am going to wear the jacket to buy the next set of buttons.


I used odd buttons and so did London Girl to match with all the different colours in the stripes.


----------



## joand

jmai5421 said:


> I did EZ's buttonholes. They are not that hard and turn out nice. I just did 3 stitch instead of 4. I also bought the buttons and then decided to try them. They are too small
> . At least they were not expensive. I am going to wear the jacket to buy the next set of buttons.


I've decided to do 5 stitch buttons. I envision this with large buttons marching down the front. Now I need to take a "road trip" to go find buttons! ( I live on an island without a bridge!). I'll post a pic when I get it all together!


----------



## darowil

joand said:


> Our ferry runs every hour or two, depending on the time of day. It's a 30 minute ride to Hilton Head Island, and then about 45 minutes to Savannah, where I can find buttons.
> I know it sounds terribly inconvenient, but once you get the schedule down, it works really well. (And, we have NO traffic jams over here-- bikes and golf carts only!)


So you can't just pop down to the LYS. No traffic sounds lovely though.


----------



## PurpleFi

joand said:


> I've decided to do 5 stitch buttons. I envision this with large buttons marching down the front. Now I need to take a "road trip" to go find buttons! ( I live on an island without a bridge!). I'll post a pic when I get it all together!


Have you ever thought of making your own buttons? Wooden ones are very easy to do. I do it quite a lot.


----------



## PurpleFi

darowil said:


> So clearly noone needs buttons on their knitteds! I'd be OK as I usually do things without buttons, but as is clear as I am doing this not always. And I have many places within walking distance to buy buttons including a specialist button shop which charges the earth (and this button shop sells yarn- think they might be trying to widen their clientele).


How about homemade buttons - they are free!


----------



## jmai5421

PurpleFi said:


> Have you ever thought of making your own buttons? Wooden ones are very easy to do. I do it quite a lot.


How? I know people make them on Etsy, but how do you do it? What do you need?


----------



## MarilynKnits

Craft stores sell a sort of plasticine (one is called Sculpy) that you roll out the thickness you want with a rolling pin then cut either with a template, free form, or with tiny canape cutters, and stick skewers in to make the buttonholes. It is then baked at a low temperature to harden it. It comes in many colors. It may even be possible to paint it with craft paint that bakes to a washable finish, but I am not sure. A friend matched up her sweater color and made tiny flowers with 4 buttonholes. She sewed them on with brown thread so they looked like buttercups (but in dusty rose). Adorable and perfect.


----------



## jmai5421

MarilynKnits said:


> Craft stores sell a sort of plasticine (one is called Sculpy) that you roll out the thickness you want with a rolling pin then cut either with a template, free form, or with tiny canape cutters, and stick skewers in to make the buttonholes. It is then baked at a low temperature to harden it. It comes in many colors. It may even be possible to paint it with craft paint that bakes to a washable finish, but I am not sure. A friend matched up her sweater color and made tiny flowers with 4 buttonholes. She sewed them on with brown thread so they looked like buttercups (but in dusty rose). Adorable and perfect.


Thank you
I am going to try that. I think that it would be fun with the dead fish hats. I am probably still going to look for buttons for my ASJ. I just want plain ones not to really show up. I want my jacket to stand out.


----------



## PurpleFi

Andrea in TN said:


> I always go button shopping at thrift stores first. My rag bag second grandmas button jar third I try to save hers for special times----like now but hers are all too small for my needs this time--- I want one or two good size ones for my new beauty!!


I make mine from holly wood. Let me know if you want to know how I do them.


----------



## PurpleFi

jmai5421 said:


> How? I know people make them on Etsy, but how do you do it? What do you need?


I use holly wood. Choose branches just bigger than the diameter you need. Strip the bark and then clamp the branch so you can saw off thin discs using a fine toothed junior hacksaw. Then drill two small holes for the centre of the button. You can them paint or stain them or just even leave them plain. If the wood has been cut and kept for some time it is better to let the sap settle.
You can ask cut the buttons on the diagonal for a different shape or even make toggles.


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## Pat FP

Wow neat button ideals. I bought mine last fall from a LYS that was closing. I just started the band and then I will add some length to the sleeves I see the light at the end of the tunnel and it is sunshine.


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## jmai5421

My jacket all done except for the buttons. I have been wearing it all morning. It is warm and comfortable. I am sure it will get lots of use this spring.
It does fit better than the picture shows. I don't know why my shoulders look so hunched over. Honestly it does look better on, at least I hope so. It does fit better than the picture look.
Thanks again for the workshop. I promised a friend who is on KP that I would walk her through the sweater using the workshop this summer. That is when I will be doing my second sweater in stockinette. It was a fun knit once I got started and saw how it was to go together.
Judy


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## sandease

I'm at my bind-off point. What are my options? I'd like to bind off in yellow and go all the way around the neckline. Is that possible? Is it better that I bind-off around the front-bottom-front & then pick up stitches around the neckline, knit a couple rows and bind that off separately? Any suggestions will be appreciated.


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## PurpleFi

jmai5421 said:


> My jacket all done except for the buttons. I have been wearing it all morning. It is warm and comfortable. I am sure it will get lots of use this spring.
> It does fit better than the picture shows. I don't know why my shoulders look so hunched over. Honestly it does look better on, at least I hope so. It does fit better than the picture look.
> Thanks again for the workshop. I promised a friend who is on KP that I would walk her through the sweater using the workshop this summer. That is when I will be doing my second sweater in stockinette. It was a fun knit once I got started and saw how it was to go together.
> Judy


You look lovely in your surprise jacket and I just love the colours.


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## PurpleFi

sandease said:


> I'm at my bind-off point. What are my options? I'd like to bind off in yellow and go all the way around the neckline. Is that possible? Is it better that I bind-off around the front-bottom-front & then pick up stitches around the neckline, knit a couple rows and bind that off separately? Any suggestions will be appreciated.


You can either bind of the fronts and the backs and then do round the neck or do the whole thing in one.


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## jmai5421

PurpleFi said:


> You look lovely in your surprise jacket and I just love the colours.


Thank you PurpleFi. 
Also thank you for the button tutorial. I am going to try it with wood from some of the trees we have at the cabin. We are in the middle of a large forest. But we don't have any Holly trees. I think they grow in Washington state where the climate is a bit damp. and milder.


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## PurpleFi

jmai5421 said:


> Thank you PurpleFi.
> Also thank you for the button tutorial. I am going to try it with wood from some of the trees we have at the cabin. We are in the middle of a large forest. But we don't have any Holly trees. I think they grow in Washington state where the climate is a bit damp. and milder.


I use holly wood as it is quite a close grained wood and white, but any closed grain wood wood do. Just experiment and you'll be surprised what you come up with. Let me know if you need any more help.


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## joand

MarilynKnits said:


> Craft stores sell a sort of plasticine (one is called Sculpy) that you roll out the thickness you want with a rolling pin then cut either with a template, free form, or with tiny canape cutters, and stick skewers in to make the buttonholes. It is then baked at a low temperature to harden it. It comes in many colors. It may even be possible to paint it with craft paint that bakes to a washable finish, but I am not sure. A friend matched up her sweater color and made tiny flowers with 4 buttonholes. She sewed them on with brown thread so they looked like buttercups (but in dusty rose). Adorable and perfect.


Great idea. I've worked with Sculpy before. If I can't find what I want at the store, I'll make some!


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## Andrea in TN

PurpleFi said:


> I use holly wood. Choose branches just bigger than the diameter you need. Strip the bark and then clamp the branch so you can saw off thin discs using a fine toothed junior hacksaw. Then drill two small holes for the centre of the button. You can them paint or stain them or just even leave them plain. If the wood has been cut and kept for some time it is better to let the sap settle.
> You can ask cut the buttons on the diagonal for a different shape or even make toggles.


by holly wood do you mean from holly bushes---- we have lots of huge ones!!! I will have to try this


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## PurpleFi

Andrea in TN said:


> by holly wood do you mean from holly bushes---- we have lots of huge ones!!! I will have to try this


Yes I do. It's lovely to work with. What I tend to do is cut a few branches of different thicknesses each year and let they dry for a month to a year before I cut them. I have also experimented with other woods. But you need one with a close grain.


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## Andrea in TN

PurpleFi said:


> Yes I do. It's lovely to work with. What I tend to do is cut a few branches of different thicknesses each year and let they dry for a month to a year before I cut them. I have also experimented with other woods. But you need one with a close grain.


thanks for the great idea


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## PurpleFi

Saroj said:


> Congratulations! You look stunning. I have 6 more rows to do. Saroj


Well done, you're nearly there.


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## PurpleFi

Pat FP said:


> I am not happy with the band around the jacket and will frog it later today. The trees are in bloom and tulips are blooming. We will have winds at 25-35 miles this afternoon and gusts over 50 miles with a bit of snow so a great day to knit later. I really will miss all the flowering tees, hope you all are coming along with you surprise jackets.


Remember to cast off loosely particularly on the fronts.


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## PurpleFi

carmenl said:


> He gads, now I've done it! I knit the band around my jacket without increasing and decreasing on the corners and neck. Now what? Do I have to frog all that?


You could possible get away with the neck but unless you want a curve at the bottom of the fronts you will need to increase there.


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## joand

PurpleFi said:


> You could possible get away with the neck but unless you want a curve at the bottom of the fronts you will need to increase there.


I did that on the first BSJ I knitted, and couldn't figure out why my curved and the pictured ones didn't! I've got the bands done and am starting on the sleeves. I'm still not sure how to handle the stitches at the back neck. If I use and ICord seam for the sleeves, could I continue with an ICord along the back neck? Or should I knit a band and attach to the front neck bands?


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## PurpleFi

joand said:


> I did that on the first BSJ I knitted, and couldn't figure out why my curved and the pictured ones didn't! I've got the bands done and am starting on the sleeves. I'm still not sure how to handle the stitches at the back neck. If I use and ICord seam for the sleeves, could I continue with an ICord along the back neck? Or should I knit a band and attach to the front neck bands?


In the pattern the back of the neck is left as it is. But I have put a neckband on mine. You could use the icord up the sleeves and across the back. Give it a try.


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## PurpleFi

carmenl said:


> Oh woe.I guess I will take it all out one stitch at a time. That is about six hours of knitting to take out. I'm afraid I will lose control of that many stitches if I just start ripping. Since I've put this much into it I may as well make it right. Thank you. I was hoping you you would come up with some magical way for me to do it with taking it all out. Of course, I knew better. :lol:


I did try casting a few spells, but even eye of toad didn't work. Sorry.


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## Designer1234

PurpleFi said:


> Ive crocheted the edge on a baby jacket.


I often do a *crab stitch* (crochet) around my cardigans. it is very pretty. I do a half double crochet going backwards, which gives it a nice twist. you can also do it in single crochet.

just start crocheting only go backwards in stead of front wards. I am sure you could find it on a search. It gives a lovely finish to a sweater. I will take a picture of my coat of many colors with the edging. sorry one is upside down but it shows the border. It really is effective and would work beautifully on the surprise jacket. I have had so many compliments on that border.

By the way everyone - this is a great class! good job to both your teachers!


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## Designer1234

jmai5421 said:


> My jacket all done except for the buttons. I have been wearing it all morning. It is warm and comfortable. I am sure it will get lots of use this spring.
> It does fit better than the picture shows. I don't know why my shoulders look so hunched over. Honestly it does look better on, at least I hope so. It does fit better than the picture look.
> Thanks again for the workshop. I promised a friend who is on KP that I would walk her through the sweater using the workshop this summer. That is when I will be doing my second sweater in stockinette. It was a fun knit once I got started and saw how it was to go together.
> Judy


Judy - you are amazing and am I ever glad you found the workshops. I applaud you for doing so many projects and for finishing them! you are such an addition to our workshops. A + for you!!

YOu have also become a friend. your sweater colors are outstanding and they suit you . nice to see faces to my friends.

Shirley


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## Designer1234

WHAT A GREAT WORKSHOP! it is so nice to see the sweaters appearing. 

You have wonderful teachers and we are so fortunate with the teachers we are getting for these workshops. When an agreement is made we are never sure how it will turn out and we have not had a failure yet!

Thanks to you all for joining in and sticking with it. 

We will keep it open for a little while longer so that more of you can finish up - great job, everyone! Designer1234

DON'T FORGET TO PUT YOUR PICTURES IN THE PARADE!


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## PurpleFi

Pat FP said:


> I am lengthing my sleeves and then back to the edging and neck. I have a question about lining. Since retirement I rarely wear several shawls I bought in the early 80's from liberty of London. One has purple and colors that would compliment my ASJ. I am painting a commission for a friend who is a fine seamstress and she has agreed to trade sewing for the painting .
> Since I know nothing about sewing or linings ,do you think wool challis would work. My jacket is wool and rather heavy?


I used quite a fine poly cotton for my lining as the jacket is made of aran weight yarn. I think you might find the wool just a bit to heavy. Personall I would keep the shawl especially as it is purple and line the jacket in something finer. Can't wait to see your photos.


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## PurpleFi

Saroj said:


> Last row. Will be done today


I shall get ready to break out the champagne.


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## Saroj

Cheers. The sweater fits perfect. Working on sleeves now. Looks like the picture posting buttons r off. Can't post the pic at this point


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## PurpleFi

Saroj said:


> Cheers. The sweater fits perfect. Working on sleeves now. Looks like the picture posting buttons r off. Can't post the pic at this point


That looks really lovely. Love the colours too.


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## PurpleFi

Lkimc said:


> How do you determine the amount of yarn needed to make the jacket?


You need around 2 lbs in weight of DK.


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## Lkimc

Any idea how much is needed for what would be considered a "large" made out of worsted weight wool?


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## PurpleFi

LoriRuth said:


> I was like four rows from casting off the body of my sweater and my chiaogoo fixed metal/lace circular needles broke where the wire meets the needle....Handsome fiber says they will replace them but I have to mail them these first before they will mail me the replacement...guess I will go to socks till then


Oh that's such a shame. If you lived near me I'd lend you some to finish.


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## PurpleFi

Saroj said:


> Thank you purplefi and London girl for doing this workshop. My second sweater after fifty years. I made children sweaters but never made anything for myself.


Well good for you. Hope you make many more.


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## PurpleFi

Lkimc said:


> Any idea how much is needed for what would be considered a "large" made out of worsted weight wool?


I would guess a bit more than I said before. I think our dk is a little finer than your worsted. If you look back I think there might be more messages relating to quantity.


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## PurpleFi

Pat FP said:


> I finished my edging but evidently I did not understand the way to turn the coner at the center bottom edges of the front opening.Ni thought i had read the directions ,I an now sewing the sleeves and adding another 1/2 inch.. To more afternoon I shal frog the edging and try again.....so near and so far from the finish line.


That's a shame, anything I can help you with?


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## Designer1234

Ladies-- please - we are having problems on all the workshops where the students are getting off track from the workshops and having discussions about things that are not about the workshop content or subject .

I realize it is easy to do but i have spent 7 hours in the last 3 days, trimming three workshops and if we don't stay on subject in all of them, we are not going to be able to keep the closed workshops. There are 3 of us trimming and it is a very time consuming job.

Please hold back a bit if you want to get side tracked. As most of our workshops are averaging from 50 - l00 students, it is overwhelming for the teachers and the workshop managers to try to read what is being said and get the workshops back on track.

Thanks very much - I hate to have to post about this, but it is getting overwhelming. If we have too many people as Managers we will not be able to keep things under control. thanks so much for understanding.

Also - Please DON'T post links without checking with the teachers, and having them post any links which will help out the workshop. I certainly realize it is meant to be helpful but please read the workshop information on page one - it covers all these suggestions and requests.

thanks ladies, Designer


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## PurpleFi

jditlin said:


> I like the idea of doing the ASJ in stockenette rather than garter stitch. I am assuming you get a longer sweater for the same number of rows?


I did one in garter stitch. The length doesn't matter as you adjust that when you knit the bottom. The thing to watch out for is that you may need to do less on the increases as you get towards the centre front.


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## PurpleFi

PurpleFi said:


> I did one in garter stitch. The length doesn't matter as you adjust that when you knit the bottom. The thing to watch out for is that you may need to do less on the increases as you get towards the centre front.


Sorry I meant to say I did one in stocking stitch, not garter. Brain having the day off!!!


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## PurpleFi

Well I wear absolutely any colour as long as there is a lot of purple with it!


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## PurpleFi

*THIS IS TO LET YOU ALL KNOW THAT THIS WORKSHOP WILL BE CLOSING NEXT FRIDAY 19 APRIL*.

However, if you still need to ask any questions relating to the surprise jacket I will be happy to answer any pms if you can't find the answers here.


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## LoriRuth

PurpleFi said:


> *THIS IS TO LET YOU ALL KNOW THAT THIS WORKSHOP WILL BE CLOSING NEXT FRIDAY 19 APRIL*.
> 
> However, if you still need to ask any questions relating to the surprise jacket I will be happy to answer any pms if you can't find the answers here.


I hope so as I may need your help and my replacement needle hasn't arrived and then we are leaving for Seattle on the 24th. I won't be taking this project with as it is just to bulky.


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## PurpleFi

miraclebaby said:


> i was readfing posts from the beginning I just read about the april 19th deadline are you doing another BSJ workshop?


Not at present. But if you are starting one soon I am happy to answer any questions that are not covered here. You can pm me. By the way if you are making a baby one you can do it quite quickly.


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## PurpleFi

darowil said:


> Well mine will not be done by then- but thats OK it will be finished one day!


It's not a deadline for finishing. It's just that the workshop needs closing to make way for new workshops. We will still be on KP so you know where to find us if you need help. :thumbup:


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## jmai5421

Thank you London Girl and Purple Fi for a wonderful workshop. I learned a lot. Without you I would never have figured out the ASJ. I love my jacket, even wore it to church yesterday. And I might add, got many compliments.
Thank you for all your patience and all your work and all your encouragement.

Judy


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## PurpleFi

Thanks for all your compliments, it has been great fun getting to know you all. London GIrl has been away on a cruise to the Dutch bulb fields, but she will be back in a couple of days.


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## PurpleFi

carolknitpal said:


> I am almost ready to do the flap, but I just want my sweater to meet in the front and put a frog or two on it. is it possible to make seed stitch around the sweater and up the front or will this curl? I but if I have to make the flap how do I join it to the sweater? All of the sweaters are beautiful. I have enjoyed this workshop so much. THANK YOU LADIES


If you have a look aty my first jacket that I did in stocking stitch, you will see that I did a seed or moss stitch border. Once you have done the straight bit just pick up all the stitches from the holders and they will make your border. Have a look at the pattern and EZ explains how to pick them up.


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## PurpleFi

darowil said:


> So thats why she has been so quite recently- her turn to go gadding around.


 :thumbup: :thumbup:


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## PurpleFi

Lkimc said:


> Will this discussion be available in the archives? I'm getting ready to start a class at my shop and was hoping to have this great workshop available for reference.
> 
> Thanks so much.


The workshop will be permanently available, you just won't be able to ask questions on it, but you can always pm us if you have a query.


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## joand

Just wanted to get in one final picture. All that's left is to finish the left arm, seam it, and make a band for the back of the neck. Oh, yeah......and weave in ALL those little ends! I decided against the Icord seam because it looked too bulky. I'm using a mattress stitch, and I'm so happy it's almost done! Can't wait to send it to DGD. Thank you both for a wonderful workshop!


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## PurpleFi

joand said:


> Just wanted to get in one final picture. All that's left is to finish the left arm, seam it, and make a band for the back of the neck. Oh, yeah......and weave in ALL those little ends! I decided against the Icord seam because it looked too bulky. I'm using a mattress stitch, and I'm so happy it's almost done! Can't wait to send it to DGD. Thank you both for a wonderful workshop!


I love the way you worked the colours. It looks great. Well done.


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## Pat FP

The jacket close to finish. My friend will line it soon. We swaped a painting she wanted and lining.


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## PurpleFi

Pat FP said:


> The jacket close to finish. My friend will line it soon. We swaped a painting she wanted and lining.


That is looking gorgeous, the colours are more or less the same as the my first one. What good taste you have. :thumbup: 
Let me know if you need any help with the lining.


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## PurpleFi

Saroj said:


> I am lengthening my sleeves. Do you have any suggestions how to shape them? Saroj


I wanted mine not too tight on the wrist and decrease either end of every 8 rows, if you want it tighter I suggest every 6 rows and then do the cuff without decreasing.


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## PurpleFi

carolknitpal said:


> may I ask a favor of you ladies I want to have measurements ready for when I make another one ,since I can't get the chart with the numbers with my LP the sweater is 23in. on size8 needles 4-ply worsted yarn, 4and 1|2 stitches per in.
> thank you very much for all of your help


Your K = 35
Cast on 311, mark 69 and 243
Dec to 173
Inc to 311 and put 3" on spare yarn
Inc to 207

Hope that makes sense.


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## PurpleFi

jmai5421 said:


> Beautiful sweater. Love the colors and the idea of the lining. Did you add inches to accomodate the lining? If so how many? I want to line my next one.
> I do love yours. Please post on the parade when you are finished. I would love to see the lining
> There are so many pretty color combinations and ways to finish the bands that I am having a hard time deciding my next one.


When I made mine, I just made it a fairly generous fit and then eased the lining in. The secret with lining a knitted item is to allow for the stretch of the yarn.


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## PurpleFi

Pat FP said:


> Do you think a knitted fabric would be better for lining?


I don't think so as it would make the jacket far too weighty and I think you need a smooth lining. I used a fine cotton. This will also prevent the jacket from stretching.


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## PurpleFi

Jessica-Jean said:


> Why not a jersey fabric such as T-shirts (and some bed-sheets) are made from?


Because it would cling to your clothes and it is not good fabric to use for lining, even t shirt weight would be too bulk for a lining.

If you want to use it then that is fine, but I would not recommend it.


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## PurpleFi

carolknitpal said:


> what is the mattress stitch?


Havea look on Youtube. It's a very neat way of joining seams.


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## PurpleFi

Just to remind everyone the workshop CLOSES TOMORROW.
Don't forget to post pictures of your finished jackets on the Parade.


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## PurpleFi

rjazz said:


> where is the parade?


Here is the link to it.

http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-150451-1.html#2880198


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## Designer1234

*This workshop will close tomorrow -

Friday April 19/2013* -- thanks again everyone! and don't forget to post your pictures in the parade (link on this workshop)


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## PurpleFi

And thank you from me. It has been a pleasure running the workshop and getting to know a lot more KP members.

Remember even when the workshop is closed we are still around to answer any questions you may have.

It only leaves me to say HAPPY KNITTING everyone


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## London Girl

PurpleFi said:


> And thank you from me. It has been a pleasure running the workshop and getting to know a lot more KP members.
> 
> Remember even when the workshop is closed we are still around to answer any questions you may have.
> 
> It only leaves me to say HAPPY KNITTING everyone


Just wanted to add that it has been a delight 'meeting' you all and enjoying your different takes on the Surprise Jacket. Hope you have all enjoyed the experience too and don't hesitate to pm if you get stuck!


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## Designer1234

*http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-150451-1.html*

is the link to the Parade- we hope you will all put your sweaters or even your works in progress. Make sure you give your names with your sweaters. thanks everyone . The workshop will be closed once I finish trimming it. wonderful job by everyone.

thanks again to the two teachers.!!


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## Designer1234

*THIS WORKSHOP IS NOW CLOSED*. I Will be trimming it and locking it tonight or tomorrow morning. Any member of KP is welcome to read the information, copy whatever they wish and use the information on this workshop. Before you pm the teachers, please read ALL the information so that the question hasn't been asked before. thanks so much Designer1234


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## rjazz

I bookmarked it for the future...I hope I will be able to find it again


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## Designer1234

rjazz said:


> I bookmarked it for the future...I hope I will be able to find it again


come to the following link and scroll down to 
closed Surprise Jackets --

We keep all our closed and open workshops on this link you can read any of them and see how they work. NOt one of the teachers had ever taught on line. I help a lot and we have the system working very well.

get back to me with your feelings about teaching

*http://www.knittingparadise.com/s-105-1.html*


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## Designer1234

PurpleFi said:


> Ive crocheted the edge on a baby jacket.


I have crochet the crab stitch around my coat of many colors and other jackets. there is a picture on this workshop showing my edgings.


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## Designer1234

here is PatFP's jacket -- it was posted on a separate link in error. 

it is lovely.


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## prismaticr

Topic is now closed. For additional information not found on these pages. please try and private message (pm) the listed teacher.

Thank you and happy knitting/crocheting!


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