# Acrylic yarn that does NOT pill -- is there such a thing?



## Reezy (Nov 5, 2011)

I would really like to knit a gorgeous aran cardigan for my DIL, but she is very sensitive to the itch in wools (which of course would be the best to use), so would the only alternative be an acrylic yarn? Absolutely hate the thought of putting all that time and effort into a great aran pattern only to have the finished product PILL unmercifully. Can anyone help me with some suggestions? Thanks so much for your input.


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## galaxycraft (Feb 15, 2011)

Specifically states Non-pilling --
Universal Uptown Line.
Deborah Norville Everyday Anti Pilling Yarn
Deramores Studio Line
Premier Primo
King Cole Cherish -- http://www.deramores.com/king-cole-cherish

Many Red Heart and Caron Yarns Do No Pill.
Vannas Choice (Reg and Baby) and other Lion Brand yarns.


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## HandyFamily (Sep 30, 2011)

Well, there are many yarns that does not - at all - pill (acrylic) - but I think most would be microfiber, like microacrylic - and they are either not really warm, or not... smooth? plain? - well, fluffier.

On the other hand, wool blends would sometimes have the same tendency, so... I'd say, just choose some yarn you actually like and ask around about it. Or at least describe the type you are looking for...


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## disgo (Mar 2, 2013)

Piling is mostly from the make up/ply of the yarn and nothing to do with what it is made from. You are right that the original acrylic had a horrible tendency to pill but that was due to the manufacturers not knowing they could not use a long continuous filament to create a yarn. The same held true for acrylic's cousin, polyester, when it was first introduced to the market with the piling leisure suits in double knit and worst the silkies done with single strands like silk that even the best manicured/lotioned hands would snag like a cat's claws.

So you need to be more aware of the structure of the yarn and actually untwist an end in the store to see. If the final plies are made from roving initial plies (to give that extra softness everyone is demanding) then avoid like the plague. You should be looking for more highly plied yarns anyway when making dimensional stitch pattern work so the stitches do not sink into the fabric.


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## Kleonike (Feb 19, 2014)

Reezy said:


> I would really like to knit a gorgeous aran cardigan for my DIL, but she is very sensitive to the itch in wools (which of course would be the best to use), so would the only alternative be an acrylic yarn? Absolutely hate the thought of putting all that time and effort into a great aran pattern only to have the finished product PILL unmercifully. Can anyone help me with some suggestions? Thanks so much for your input.


I just completed a hooded jacket for my grandson with a new Knit Picks worsted yarn called The Mighty Stitch. It's 80% acrylic and 20% superwash wool and quite inexpensive.

It's very soft and smooth to work with. I can also state definitively that it does not pill because I had to frog the jacket several times before I got the hang of the stitch pattern and also washed it before giving it to my grandson. He is also very sensitive to wool and says his jacket is "very comfy". His mother tells me that he wears the jacket constantly and she's seen no sign of pilling.


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## dannyjack (Nov 5, 2013)

Thanks for all of the anti-pill suggestions!


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## Reezy (Nov 5, 2011)

Your recommendation of Knit Pick's Mighty Stitch is much appreciated--and it seems this is exactly what I've been looking for ... great color selection too. Thank you SO very much!



Kleonike said:


> I just completed a hooded jacket for my grandson with a new Knit Picks worsted yarn called The Mighty Stitch. It's 80% acrylic and 20% superwash wool and quite inexpensive.
> 
> It's very soft and smooth to work with. I can also state definitively that it does not pill because I had to frog the jacket several times before I got the hang of the stitch pattern and also washed it before giving it to my grandson. He is also very sensitive to wool and says his jacket is "very comfy". His mother tells me that he wears the jacket constantly and she's seen no sign of pilling.


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## Dcsmith77 (Apr 18, 2011)

Don't forget some of the great cotton blends that are available. I have not had them pill - so far. I've used Knitpicks cotlin and comfy and Sirdar baby crofter and summer stripes successfully .


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## Teeple (Feb 5, 2011)

Thank you so much for the anti-pilling yarn lists.


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## babyjax (Sep 6, 2013)

DISGO: Will you please explain further......you advised that, if we are looking for stitch definition, that we seek 'more highly plied' yarns. Do you mean the ply count (i.e., 3-ply, 4-ply, etc.)? Or something else? And you suggest untwisting a yarn end in the store....I would like to try that, but not sure what you mean by 'roving initial piles'..........if you have the time and inclination, would you be willing to expand on your answer? As always, thanks for sharing your knowledge!


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## Rosalie Courtney (Jul 29, 2012)

Red Heart yarn 4 ply yarn does pill. I've made several sweaters with it and it does pill!


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## galaxycraft (Feb 15, 2011)

Rosalie Courtney said:


> Red Heart yarn 4 ply yarn does pill. I've made several sweaters with it and it does pill!


Which Line of yarn of Red Heart did you use?
They have many lines (yarn names).
Just saying Red Heart is a very broad spectrum.
Red Heart 4 Ply is generally their US#4 medium weight class.


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## Rosalie Courtney (Jul 29, 2012)

I don't have the sleeves on any yarn I have left. But it was their reg. 4 ply worsted (Not DK wt.) yarn. If I were knit. with reg. needles I'd probably use either a #7 or #8 needle. I used my bulky knit. mach. to knit these zippered sweatshirt style cardigans for members of the family and myself. It pills a lot! I won't use or buy that type of their yarn any more for that reason. I like Lions Brand or Escort part wool/acrylic now.


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## AmyKnits (Aug 20, 2011)

disgo said:


> Piling is mostly from the make up/ply of the yarn and nothing to do with what it is made from. You are right that the original acrylic had a horrible tendency to pill but that was due to the manufacturers not knowing they could not use a long continuous filament to create a yarn. The same held true for acrylic's cousin, polyester, when it was first introduced to the market with the piling leisure suits in double knit and worst the silkies done with single strands like silk that even the best manicured/lotioned hands would snag like a cat's claws.
> 
> So you need to be more aware of the structure of the yarn and actually untwist an end in the store to see. If the final plies are made from roving initial plies (to give that extra softness everyone is demanding) then avoid like the plague. You should be looking for more highly plied yarns anyway when making dimensional stitch pattern work so the stitches do not sink into the fabric.


I agree that the tighter the twist, the less likely to pill. I have not had good success with the few acrylics I have tried.

That said... There are no guarantees. I made myself a sweater with Patons Classic wool (cranberry color) and it has been washed and worn dozens of times and looks like new.. Not a single pill. I knitted my husband a sweater in the same yarn (purple) and it has pilled like crazy.. Not just in the "usual" areas; underarms, cuffs, etc. but has pilled everywhere. No sense in me recommending a particular BRAND that is less likely to pill.

There are no guarantees, but hand washing is the best defense against pilling. According to my fiber book and reading online.... machine washing is a yarn's worst enemy.

I agree with using a cotton blend over a 100% acrylic if pilling is a big concern.

http://www.wsj.com/articles/SB10001424052702304007504579348713465126696

http://glennaknits.com/2012/11/01/what-a-pill/


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## czechmate (Jun 17, 2011)

Red Heart is like cast Iron nothing can hurt it ,you can wear it as armor.


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## rkr (Aug 15, 2012)

In the spinning processes, there are Worsted & Woolen. 

Worsted is the use of very long, straightened fibers, sometimes advertised as 'Top'. That's the part of the combing & carding processes which separate the shorter lengths from the long.

Woolen uses much shorter lengths of fiber and they are (usually) only carded, not combed as well. When they're spun, the lengths are sort of tumbled into the individual plies instead of lying smoothly beside their neighbors.

How many plies there are doesn't have a bearing on pilling. Unraveling the end of a strand won't show the spinning process w/o a microscope. That shows only the end of the total strand, not all of the loose ends along the entire length. 
The multiple fiber ends occur along the entire length of the strand: at both end points of each individual fiber is where extra materials in the environment (dust, other fibers, skin flakes, etc) are picked up and snagged, becoming pills.
That's why I refuse to use the roving-type of single plies. They're usually very softly spun and w/o burying as many fiber ends as possible within a Worsted multi-ply, too many are all exposed like fish hooks, waiting to grab onto any passing junk.
Worsteds tend to be more tightly twisted, burying as many fiber ends as possible. 

Knowing what forms the pills shows that using a manual or mechanical de-piller removes the present pills but as one is cutting off the ends of each fiber which is above the strand's surface (both those with & w/o a pill) and they will continue to pill.

I knit for our parish's Prayer Shawl Ministry; they want only standard machine wash & dry materials (acrylics) used. I hate this and would much rather use washable wools b/c many of the yarns are picking up pills as I work them, through friction & agitation against itself as it grows....


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## bethn (Dec 26, 2012)

Reezy said:


> I would really like to knit a gorgeous aran cardigan for my DIL, but she is very sensitive to the itch in wools (which of course would be the best to use), so would the only alternative be an acrylic yarn? Absolutely hate the thought of putting all that time and effort into a great aran pattern only to have the finished product PILL unmercifully. Can anyone help me with some suggestions? Thanks so much for your input.


I've heard really good things about Cascade's Avalon -- a 50/50 cotton and acrylic blend. It's a worsted weight; not sure whether it's a true worsted or a bit heavier, like an aran weight. 
One other thing. You mentioned that your DIL is super-sensitive to itchy wools. So is my sister, and you can imagine my (our!) surprise when I gave her a sweater knitted in Vanna's Choice. She returned it because it made her itch! So, apparently, there are acrylics and then there are acrylics....   Perhaps you can have your DIL do the "crook-of-arm" test or try a swatch test before you knit up a gorgeous aran?
Let us know what you find!


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## susanrs1 (Mar 21, 2011)

YES! Plymouth Encore and it's a dream to knit with, way better than Red Heart.


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## bethn (Dec 26, 2012)

susanrs1 said:


> YES! Plymouth Encore and it's a dream to knit with, way better than Red Heart.


You're right! Forgot about Plymouth Encore. Love it!
 (for Tucson....)


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## Dcsmith77 (Apr 18, 2011)

bethn said:


> in Vanna's Choice. She returned it because it made her itch! So, apparently, there are acrylics and then there are acrylics....
> 
> Once again, I refer you to cotton blends. Acrylic is not the only alternative to wool, and I personally have never heard of anyone allergic to cotton. It is usually blended with a man-made fiber, and I mentioned some very good yarns above. Try them. I guarantee they will not itch, they come in good colors, are easy to work with and not expensive. So far, I have not had any of them pill.


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## Revan (Jun 29, 2011)

Deborah Noville yarn does not pill, even says so on the label.


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## bethn (Dec 26, 2012)

The only concern with pure cotton is that it will stretch (not a memory fiber). When I've knit with it, I've gone down at least a needle size. A good cotton yarn with a bit of acrylic to stabilize it is worth its weight in.....more yarn, of course!


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## Dcsmith77 (Apr 18, 2011)

No, do not use pure cotton. The yarns I mention above are cotton blends. Cotlin is a blend of cotton and linen and has good body; comfy is cotton and nylon (I think) and is perfect for baby things and anything you want very soft and cozy; the Sirdar yarns are also cozy and good for baby things or in the case of summer stripes very pretty sweaters (it is variegated). Don't remember what the blend is the Sirdar.

Pure cotton stretches and is far too heavy in my mind for much besides dish cloths and towels.


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## ZoeyR77 (Nov 5, 2019)

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