# #18 -CLOSED - STEP-BY-STEP CABLES with Stitch Designer



## Designer1234

#18 -STEP-BY-STEP CABLES with Stitch Designer - Mar. 15/13
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*PLEASE READ THE FOLLOWING WORKSHOP INFORMATION*

Welcome to our workshop section. Please read the following information and requests, so that this and other workshops can go forward in an orderly fashion.

ALWAYS start reading at the beginning of this workshop, even if you join in late. 
This is important as sometimes corrections are made there are additions to the information. If you are starting the class, 
make sure you check from page 1.
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First of all - These workshops are NOT KALS where members join in together to solve problems and make suggestions to each other.

These are Workshops, taught by a teacher - or if it is a pattern, the teacher is here to help in situations where a pattern is difficult to follow. Others are the teacher's own designs and methods.
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*IMPORTANT* - _we ask that you read the information and suggestions below, in order that this experience will be great for the Teacher, as well as all the students. By agreeing to follow them, you will make it much easier for the Managers, Teachers and students to have a successful workshop. _.

#1-once you have posted on this topic- it means you have automatically joined in the workshop
There is no signup and no cost. If you have posted, all future posts to this workshop will be mailed to you automatically unless 
you change your setting at the top of this page to 'unwatch' 
- 
#2 PLEASE NOTE: As the teacher has spent a lot of time preparing this workshop and in many cases is teaching her specific way of doing the project *please don't post links 
unless they are approved by the teacher*. _Often there is much information out there and if you want to use other methods, or techniques please wait until the workshop is finished_ - if you wish to discuss other methods, please pm the teacher before you post about different techniques or ways of doing things.

If you feel that it might be helpful - please don't post it - but instead pm your teacher and she will post it if she thinks it is helpful.

#3- As a matter of courtesy- please let the teacher answer questions about the workshop - each teacher will do their best to drop by the workshop at least once a day, we have found that questions answered by students incorrectly are in some cases not the method used by the teacher,and can cause confusion.

#4-If you have any problems with downloads etc. please go to the main section- see the link on the same line as the page numbers on the top and bottom of all the posts here - and read our TECH HELP topic -

#5 If you wish to go to another workshop or topic in the workshop section, from these pages - go to the top or bottom of the workshop
pages and you will see

KNITTING AND CROCHET PATTERNS WITH DESIGNER1234 (on the same line as the page number) - click on either of them and you will arrive at the Main page and can then click on whatever workshop or information page you wish.

#6-*We would appreciate very much if you ONLY GIVE OUT THE FOLLOWING LINK,not the individual links of the workshops to other KP members*.If all the individual links are used for each of the 40 or 50 workshops we will have held by the end of the year it would be very difficult for the Managers to keep track of each workshop and answer questions directing new people to the workshops.

The following link takes you directly to the workshop home page where you can read the information files at the top of the page and then scroll down to the open and closed workshops.

So PLEASE don't give out the individual links to anyone - It is causing confusion by doing this so we ask you to please honor our request in this matter. It is important as it affects how we can keep the workshops running smoothly. This includes posting information or directing new people to the workshops.

http://www.knittingparadise.com/s-105-1.html

#7-*To subscribe to this section - go to 'my Profile' at the top of the page*. You will see a place where it shows what sections you are subscribed to - then you can subscribe to

KNITTING AND CROCHET WORKSHOPS WITH DESIGNER1234

- it will then remain permanently on your home page with MAIN, PICTURES, CHIT CHAT ETC. and you can click on it whenever you want to come into this section.

#6 -One of us (Managers)will be trimming the workshops at least once a week or less - of posts that are not questions and answers about the project being taught, or repeat questions. This is with the approval of each of our teachers and we do it so that the information which is saved when the workshop closes - is straightforward and easy to understand.

All our workshops will remain permanently in this section even after they are closed, and we want to keep only pertinent information. You are welcome to post comments etc. however, we will just delete them once the teacher has seen them . We do, however, ask that you use a bit of restraint as it keeps us very busy trimming all the workshops.

The organizers (managers) of the workshop section appreciate it if you will all make the effort to follow our requests above - it helps us a lot and allows us time to carry on finding new teachers etc..

Thank you - designer1234 and prismaticr and nrc1940 (Section Mgrs.)

Just a note - nrc1940 will be doing the trimming and highlighting in this workshop and will also help Stitch Designer as much as possible. She will also highlight the lessons to make it easier for you all to read the instructions. She has joined prismatic and I and we look forward to working with her.

*I now take a great deal of pleasure in introducing StitchDesigner* - your teacher of this workshop!


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## StitchDesigner

Designer1234 said:


> #18 -STEP-BY-STEP CABLES with Stitch Designer - Mar. 15/13
> ---------------------
> 
> *I now take a great deal of pleasure in introducing StitchDesigner* - your teacher of this workshop!


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## nrc1940

As of 2:45 p.m. March 15 we have 38 people enrolled for this workshop. *Way to go!* actually we can add l7 to that number as I deleted them early in the morning- so we are doing really well.

===================

*ATTENTION*:

*COMPLETE SET OF up to date DOWNLOADS FOR THIS WORKSHOP are ON THE LAST PAGE OF THIS WORKSHOP -GO TO PAGE 7 FOR ALL THE DOWNLOADS WHICH INCLUDE CORRECTED PATTERNS

.Thanks to GinB for doing this for us - She has test checked all the patterns t here are docx and pdf downloads for this workshop*.

Thanks to Gin B for testing and re writing the cable downloads! Designer1234


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## StitchDesigner

StitchDesigner said:


> StitchDesigner said:
> 
> 
> 
> The Block labeled Celtic Cable is Block #2. Basic Cables is Block #1.
> 
> Thanks Stitch designer so the instructions are for block #1, not the picture? correct?
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the correct photo:
Click to expand...


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## StitchDesigner

*GO TO PAGE 7 for the corrected pattern in new downloads -- please refer to all of them for this workshop*

BASIC CABLES

*Abbreviations:*

CO	Cast On
K	Knit
P	Purl
BO	Bind Off or Cast Off

*C6F* Slip the next 3 stitches, purlwise, to a cable needle. Let the cable needle hang in the front of your work. The yarn must be behind the work. K the next 3 stitches. You want the 1st stitch to be a little snug. Now, using the cable needle, and making sure it has not twisted, K those 3 stitches. Make sure the last stitch is snug.

*C6B* Slip the next 3 stitches, purlwise, to a cable needle. Let the cable needle hang in the back of the work. The yarn should be between it and the working needles. Knit the next 3 stitches, make sure the 1st stitch is snug. Knit the 3 off of the cable needle, making sure the last stitch is snug.

*Cast on 36 stitches.*

Rows 1-4: Knit.
Pattern
Row 1: K3, (k1, p1) 3 times, p2, (k6, p2) twice, (p1, k1) 3 times, k3.
Row 2 and all even Rows: K3, (k1, p1) 3 times, k2, (p6, k2) twice, (p1, k1) 3 times, k3.

Note: Even rows on this block will no longer be shown in the instructions.

Row 3: Repeat Row 1.
Row 5: K3, (k1, p1) 3 times, p2, C6F, p2, C6B, p2, (p1, k1) 3 times, k3.
Row 7: Repeat Row 1.

Be sure to do a Row 8, then: Repeat Rows 1-8 six more times (7 times total). 
Knit 4 rows. 
B.O.

*Every other cable you ever do is a variation of this basic cable. Once you master those 2 simple cross-overs, you can do them all, provided, of course, the pattern is correct.*

Note that the abbreviation is C6B or C6F. C=Cable, 6=the total number of stitches in the cable, B or F=where to hold the cable needle. I have seen this cable done as C2F to C12F (or B).

Now, to the nasty, little chart. All of my charts are hand drawn, so bear with me. OK?

This chart does not include the 4 row borders on top and bottom, nor does it include the 3 stitch side borders.

The numbers on the right and left sides correspond to the rows of the pattern. These are the row repeats.

When I started working with knitting charts I found the phrasing, k on front, p on back, a little confusing. So this chart has both front and back rows. The written instructions show only Row 2 of the even rows, but I choose to include them all on the chart.

There are 2 funny looking rectangles in the middle of the chart. Those represent the cable twists. They need a little explanation.

Each rectangle is six stitches wide and 1 row tall. Each set of diagonals is 3 stitches. On C6F the diagonals appears to be over the other 3 stitches. On C6B, they are behind the other 3 stitches. The front and back instruction tells you what to do with the first stitches you come to. They also resemble the actual cable.

Careful!! The odd rows read left to right. The even rows read right to left, even though you will be working left to right. Yeah, I know, its a little confusing. Thats because the chart is a representation of only the front of the work.

You should be able to work back and forth from instructions to chart, until you really get the chart clicking. If you have any problems, contact me.


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## Designer1234

* see corrected downloads on last page of this closed workshop*


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## Designer1234

I am really enjoying this- my first cable worked-- once I have the pattern set up it is easy to follow - lots of fun. Here is the picture of my first 6 rows including my first cable - yeah( I have only done basic cables once or twice and had a heck of a time. now I see how it works! I never saw it in my head - this is very clear.



I am finding it easy to follow as I knit - thanks Carla - can't wait for the next blocks -- How many different combinations do you have for us?? Shirley


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## StitchDesigner

Nilda muniz said:


> When you place purlwise the 3 stitches on the cable holder, does it matter from which end of the cable you knit them? Do you pull them all the way to the right of the cable or knit them from the left side? Probably this is obvious to all of you and some are probably laughing at my stupidity, but I need to ask. Thank you.


When you slip the 1st 3 stitches look at the cable needle. The stitches should be aligned just like they would have been on the left hand needle. The cable needle *should not be twisted*. When the stitches are slipped the first stitch on the cable needle will be the first stitch on the cable needle. Since the needle is a double point, you will knit from the right end point.


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## StitchDesigner

bkennard said:


> I am having trouble keeping the spaces between the cables small. I am going to assume that I am not slugging the last stitch of the first cable tight enough. Does this make sense?


The stitches at either side of the cable will be stretched. They are going to be larger than a normal stitch. That's why I said to pull tight. I'm sure you're pulling tightly enough. If you aren't you'll have big, saggy holes instead of small, neat holes.


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## Designer1234

I am having lots of fun with these cables. I have done some but I wasn't doing them correctly and I finished my first block! It is so nice to take a course myself. I have wanted to learn cables for years so I decided come heck or high water (as my mom used to say) that I was going to take this workshop.!

I am proud of my first block and cables are going into my next sweater. I tried awhile ago and they look okay but they were done wrong. Thanks stitch designer, *Can't wait for the next block*! 
I used a size larger needle to cast off and it looks loose but I will be able to fix that if I join it to another block. I am going to try the same size needle next time. I knit fairly tight cables I think. love it!
Shirley


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## bkennard

My first ever real attempt at cables. My tension is rather tight so will try to loosen it some with the next square. 
Thank you for the clear instructions.


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## jmai5421

My DH's larger dishcloth. I can see where I was doing cables wrong. Thaks for the instruction. I admit I used the written out directions but need to get used to charts. I will use the chart on the next design.

looks good though, Judy- I see what you mean. Carla (stitch designer might tell you why your first side is not the same as the second it does look as if the cable is going in the right direction. That is what i have kept doing in the past - not sure what I did differently. That is exactly what I did - never did figure out why.


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## StitchDesigner

Ladies, your cables look GREAT!!! I'll publish number 2 this weekend.


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## StitchDesigner

knitwitconnie said:


> Am I missing the needle size? I was thinking of using cotton and making dishcloths. My guess is about a size 6 needle? I just didn't seem to see the size but could easily have missed the direction of it.
> Thanks.


Sorry, I deliberately didn't give any. My instructions say to use whatever weight yarn you like and to use the appropriately sized needle. If you are going to used a worsted or Aran weight cotton yarn, use a size #8 needle. Otherwise it will be way to stiff.


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## Designer1234

I used the written instructions using markers at every change .


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## Designer1234

The wheeze said:


> Just finished block #1 for the second time. Did not have my glasses on before starting it the first time and used size 6 needle. This is the redo with size 8.
> Can't figure out how to add the pic.


go to the main workshop link - at the bottom of this page - same line as the page number click on it - then check out Tech information -- and I think the instructions are there, if not there they will be in the other information file. it is quite simple to do but once you hit send, don't change anything - it sometimes takes a long time.


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## EllenCrafts

I figured out how to post a picture! You have to 'reply' to a post, not 'comment'. So here's my picture!

Is it rectangular shaped because my stitches are too tight?


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## janwalla

I finished my block last night, I added an extra stitch on edges, initially by mistake but i just left it. I am using this block for an afghan I started ages ago. Its a dark purple/brown colour. (photo probably wont do it justice) which is the last 6th colour I had to use to finish it. Just need another 5 blocks. :lol: :lol:


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## StitchDesigner

StitchDesigner said:


> *HERE IS THE CORRECTED CHART*
> 
> Here's the new chart. I'm going post block 2 later today.


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## StitchDesigner

Emcusin said:


> I figured out how to post a picture! You have to 'reply' to a post, not 'comment'. So here's my picture!
> 
> Is it rectangular shaped because my stitches are too tight?


Some of your repeats are too long. How are you tracking the number of rows between each repeat? If you don't have a row counter that has multi-functions, try cross-hatches on paper.


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## RydersMum

I got a late start on the first block, but thanks to my awesomely amazing fiancee, he bought me the Caron's Pound of Love in Cream (my new favorite yarn, BTW....it is so super soft and feels so much better than the Red Heart stuff I've been using!) 

This is what I got done last night before bed. Will finish it up today.


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## Sockmouth

Here's my first cable square. I'm really happy with how it turned out but I have to say I still am not much of a fan of cables. Hoping they will grow on me if I do more of them.


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## 44gram

Well here it is In all it's glory! Lol

Still having trouble with my tension. Started out too loose. Then tightened up too much, I think, but the last 2 are better, I think. 

Moving right along

Thanks for the corrected chart

All cables posted are looking good!!


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## StitchDesigner

I'm so proud of all of you! Those look so nice! If you're wondering why they look rectangular, it could be your gauge or, just the nature of cables. Remember I said they pull toward the middle? That's vertical middle. So, the more cable columns in a piece, the narrower it will appear to be. Personally, I hate to try to ease together blocks that have a different stitch count, so those of you who are making throws from your blocks will find that putting the blocks together will make them more square again and will be easier.


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## StitchDesigner

jangmb said:


> Some really nice looking squares of cables posted here. I pulled mine out waiting for the updated graph. The graph works way better for me than the text. So thank you so much, Designer, for the update.


You're welcome! Maybe the remaining blocks will go better.


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## StitchDesigner

charlenekbenton said:


> Thanks for the 2nd block....but I need the download of block 1 that contains the corrected chart.....I cannot add the chart to that previous download & tthe corrected one Shirley put on page 2 of this thread doesnot include corrected chart....although I am following this workshop, I am downloading to start after I finish the pair of socks I am making for Bro Bob's bday this Saturday so i am behind the perverbial 8 ball & cannot stop to add anything new til those are done by midweek. But I did not want to miss out on this wrkshp Thanks so much!


Here it is. The Download is at the bottom.


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## StitchDesigner

charlenekbenton said:


> I thought you added the corrected chart into the PDF download, that's what I am asking for....I keep all patterns on my GOODREADER app on my iPad it just won't let me copy & paste, it only accepts PDF downloads...as I am not starting this for awhile I hoped I could get the corrected download....hate to put more on you so if u r too busy I'll just try to follow along on what I have, this brain only holds so much LOL


The corrected download is at the bottom of the post I just sent RE: your previous post.


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## StitchDesigner

Everyone, take your time. This isn't a race! Enjoy yourselves.


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## unie

Square 1 complete..I can't believe I did it and it looks pretty good..BUT it's not square, don't know how I did that??


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## RBurk

thank you,
I am so pleased with this workshop.

this is the first time I have used a chart and absolutely love it. I realized at once that I could see the entire pattern at a glance, no more tediously rereading each pattern row and losing track. the combination of written pattern with the graph for easy reference is a revelation.

I have completed the first block (picture attached) and am anxious to start the next one. I used knitting worsted weight wool for the first square but am switching to DK. the heavier yarn shows the well defined pattern but makes a very bulky fabric.

thanks again


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## kehinkle

Completed three repeats of the pattern. Sure makes a difference when the pattern is correct. LOL Pictures following.


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## StitchDesigner

unie said:


> Square 1 complete..I can't believe I did it and it looks pretty good..BUT it's not square, don't know how I did that??


Remember, I said the cables pull the blocks horizontally to the center. They will work as squares or almost squares in a blanket. The neighboring blocks will make them behave. Pull on the block horizontally. It spreads and gets shorter. If you like, pin it out into a square, then with a pressing cloth covering the block, steam it *without* allowing the iron to touch it. This should help.


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## 44gram

Hi StitchDesigner. Does this look right? It doesn't to me but I don't know what's wrong. 
Thanks,
Carol


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## bkennard

Hi Stitch Designer.
This is my attempt at the trellis square. It does not look right as the cables are not smooth.
I even wrote the chart out by hand and followed that and came up with the same result. What am I doing wrong?


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## StitchDesigner

grandmere101 said:


> Hi StitchDesigner. Does this look right? It doesn't to me but I don't know what's wrong.
> Thanks,
> Carol


Carol, it looks as though you have twisted the first cable. The first leg looks twisted, as though you knitted from the 2nd stitch then the first. It appears you are also purling in the wrong places.

Purls as part of the cable are only on rows 7 & 11. They are always only on the leg that is held in the back. Sorry, you gotta frog. But not very far.


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## StitchDesigner

bkennard said:


> Hi Stitch Designer.
> This is my attempt at the trellis square. It does not look right as the cables are not smooth.
> I even wrote the chart out by hand and followed that and came up with the same result. What am I doing wrong?


You're doing the cables in the wrong directions. Look carefully at the chart. The diagrams look like a completed cable. There should be 5 cables on row 7. The first is CP4B--hold the 1st two stitches in the back, *knit* the next 2 off of the left needle, then *purl* the 2 off of the cable needle. Next is CP4F--hold the 1st 2 stitches in the *front*, *purl* the next 2 off of the left needle, then *knit* the 2 off of the cable needle.

The final letter of the abbreviation (at least most of the time, and on my charts) tells you *where to hold the cable needle, either Front or Back*.


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## StitchDesigner

jangmb said:


> Designer1234 said:
> 
> 
> 
> This happens in every workshop -- it is really hard to transfer a written pattern to a chart or the other way around.
> 
> This workshop is great!
> 
> 
> 
> It's that editing thing I personally have a very difficult time editing my own work. It seems that my eyes read what I am intending (because I know wha it is supposed to be) and don't notice anything not the way I want it. I don't get too excited when it happens as I know it surely happens for me.
Click to expand...

Thank you, Jan! I needed to hear that. This time I'm started Block 3 today for a Wed. or Thur. release. I'll just see how this block goes first.


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## 44gram

grandmere101 said:


> StitchDesigner said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> grandmere101 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi StitchDesigner. Does this look right? It doesn't to me but I don't know what's wrong.
> Thanks,
> Carol
> 
> 
> 
> Carol, it looks as though you have twisted the first cable. The first leg looks twisted, as though you knitted from the 2nd stitch then the first. It appears you are also purling in the wrong places.
> 
> Purls as part of the cable are only on rows 7 & 11. They are always only on the leg that is held in the back. Sorry, you gotta frog. But not very far.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

First cable. oK?


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## 44gram

grandmere101 said:


> grandmere101 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> StitchDesigner said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> grandmere101 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi StitchDesigner. Does this look right? It doesn't to me but I don't know what's wrong.
> Thanks,
> Carol
> 
> 
> 
> Carol, it looks as though you have twisted the first cable. The first leg looks twisted, as though you knitted from the 2nd stitch then the first. It appears you are also purling in the wrong places.
> 
> Purls as part of the cable are only on rows 7 & 11. They are always only on the leg that is held in the back. Sorry, you gotta frog. But not very far.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> OK. Thanks for your response. I thought I was purling in the back stitches but guess not. I'll frog back and try again. Just the trials and tribulations of the newer knitter. :-(
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ok. I think I know what I'm doing. When the holder is in the back and I purl the front stitches, do I knit the stitches with the holder in back? Or do I bring it to the front to knit off?
Click to expand...

How a out now? First 12 rows


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## StitchDesigner

grandmere101 said:


> grandmere101 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> grandmere101 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> StitchDesigner said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> grandmere101 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi StitchDesigner. Does this look right? It doesn't to me but I don't know what's wrong.
> Thanks,
> Carol
> 
> 
> 
> Carol, it looks as though you have twisted the first cable. The first leg looks twisted, as though you knitted from the 2nd stitch then the first. It appears you are also purling in the wrong places.
> 
> Purls as part of the cable are only on rows 7 & 11. They are always only on the leg that is held in the back. Sorry, you gotta frog. But not very far.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> OK. Thanks for your response. I thought I was purling in the back stitches but guess not. I'll frog back and try again. Just the trials and tribulations of the newer knitter. :-(
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ok. I think I know what I'm doing. When the holder is in the back and I purl the front stitches, do I knit the stitches with the holder in back? Or do I bring it to the front to knit off?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> How a out now? First 12 rows
Click to expand...

It looks like something is going on in the first 3 rows, like a cable. Also, slow down and think each "leg" through. On Rows 5 & 9 you are working plain, vanilla cables--*no purls*. On Rows 7 & 11 the stitches that are *held in the back ONLY* are the ones to be purled.


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## StitchDesigner

grandmere101 said:


> So now I am really confused. What are the instructions for CP4B?


Anytime you see a "B" on a cable abbreviation it means the first stitches are held in the back of the work.

CP4B is "Cable with Purl worked over 4 stitches with front stitches held in Back.

Translation: Slip first 2 stitches to cable needle, hold in *back* of work. Knit the next 2 from the left needle and purl the 2 from the cable needle.

I just found out my original instructions were wrong. New pattern in a few minutes.


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## 44gram

Hi StitchDesigner. I think I have it now. I didn't frog the mistakes as I wanted to see the difference. And there is quite a difference. I hope in the right direction

Many thanks for doing this class and your patience


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## StitchDesigner

grandmere101 said:


> Hi StitchDesigner. I think I have it now. I didn't frog the mistakes as I wanted to see the difference. And there is quite a difference. I hope in the right direction
> 
> Many thanks for doing this class and your patience


I can see the difference. You're on the right track now. And thank you for your patience with my errata.


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## StitchDesigner

MissAppleBlossom said:


> Stitchdesigner:
> 
> Do the odd rows read read left to right or right to left?
> Same question about the even rows.
> The two block instructions are opposite each other.
> 
> Sorry to be a pain but I'm just confused at the moment.


So am I! The odd rows read right to left and even left to right on both charts. The error is on the explanation of Chart #1. If anyone needs a corrected copy, let me know.


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## bkennard

Here is a picture of my finished Celtic Trellis Cable Square. It was a challenge but thanks to Stitch Designer it worked out well. Thank you so much.


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## 44gram

All the finished cables look great. Finished mine last night. Don't look at the first set, it's wrong, but I think the rest are OK

Can't believe I did it


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## RBurk

completed block #2 Attached find a photo.
I seem to be better able to understand the pattern as I work out several repeats.


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## RydersMum

Here is my finished first block and part of my second block! I'm SO loving this class, thank you for having it!


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## StitchDesigner

lkb850 said:


> I may be way out in left field, but I am wondering if I was going to use this pattern in a man's sweater, would I take the pattern and add several stitches? Seems like the trellis draws it up more than the first block. And if I was going to use it, how do you incorporate ribbing to start the sweater? Would I do a K2P2 rib? I guess what I am asking is if I have a plain sweater, how would I use the trellis, which I really like.


At the very beginning of the workshop I said that it is necessary to *add* 2 stitches per cable column. For the first block you would need to add 4 stitches. For Celtic Trellis you would need to add at least 12 stitches as there are 6 cable columns. That's why it draws up more.

Ribbing is easy. Do whatever ribbing you want. If you need more stitches, you can add stitches on the increase row. Most pullovers and cardi's have one. If the plain pattern calls for 88 stitches for the cast on, and says to increase 10 stitches evenly, do it like this:

Work the ribbing from the pattern over the 88 stitches. Then add the called for number of stitches * PLUS* the necessary number for the cables. It will mean easing the stitches into the collar and at the shoulders. It does take adjustment to the pattern, but all on the body, not the underarms. If you add to sleeves it will mean easing at the sleeve-hole.


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## StitchDesigner

grandmere101 said:


> All the finished cables look great. Finished mine last night. Don't look at the first set, it's wrong, but I think the rest are OK
> 
> Can't believe I did it


Wow! Look at what you did! The next block is a lot easier. You should fly through it. Then 3 really interesting blocks. Here's some hints: Braids, Hugs and Kisses, Chains, and Roaming Cables. Braids will be the really easy one.


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## RBurk

note that my beginning and ending borders are sort of folded into the pattern ridges. if I were actually using this pattern in a garment how would I correct for the upper and lower "ripple"?
Would it even out if I knit enough rows above and below the pattern?


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## StitchDesigner

RBurk said:


> note that my beginning and ending borders are sort of folded into the pattern ridges. if I were actually using this pattern in a garment how would I correct for the upper and lower "ripple"?
> Would it even out if I knit enough rows above and below the pattern?


Yes. I adapted this from a sweater with a deep ribbing and about 6 rows between the ribbing and the cables. Blocking helps, too.


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## didough

*PLEASE READ ROW 5 - it is corrected * -- PLEASE CORRECT YOUR DOWNLOADED WRITTEN COPY AS WELL FOR ROW 5.

CELTIC TRELLIS

Hi! Welcome to the 2nd Block of the Cables workshop. This will be the Celtic Trellis. Trellis I think you can figure out, but why Celtic? Celtic patterns show up a lot in Aran sweaters. One thing all open Celtic patterns have in common is the over-under cable work. The leg that was held in back before will be worked in front, and vice versa.

This can be used as a filler stitch between a much larger cable. I have also seen it used as the main pattern. There are 4 different cable twists in this block, so pay attention.

CELTIC TRELLIS

Abbreviations:

COCast On
KKnit
PPurl
RSRight Side

C4F--Slip the next 2 stitches, purlwise, to a cable needle. Let the cable needle hang in the front of your work. The yarn must be behind the work. K the next 2 stitches. You want the 1st stitch to be a little snug. Now, using the cable needle, and making sure it has not twisted, K those 2 stitches. Make sure the last stitch is snug.

C4B--Slip the next 2 stitches, purlwise, to a cable needle. Let the cable needle hang in the back of the work. The yarn should be between it and the working needles. Knit the next 2 stitches, make sure the 1st stitch is snug. Knit the 2 off of the cable needle, making sure the last stitch is snug.

CP4F--Slip the next 2 stitches, purlwise, to a cable needle. Let the cable needle hang in the front of your work. The yarn must be in front of the work. Purl the next 2 stitches. K the 2 off of the cable needle.

CP4B--Slip the next 2 stitches, purlwise, to a cable needle. Let the cable needle hang in the back of the work. The yarn should be in front of the work. K the next two stitches. Place the yarn behind the cable needle. P the 2 stitches off of it.

CO 36 stitches.

K the first 3 rows.

Row 4: K8, (p4, k4) twice, p4, k8.
Row 5: (RS) K3, p5, (C4F, P4) 3 times, p1, k3.*CORRECTED WRITTEN PATTERN* -
Row 6: Repeat Row 4.
Row 7: K3, p3, (CP4B, CP4F) 3 times, p3, k3.
Row 8: K6, p2, (k4, p4) twice, k4, p2, k6.
Row 9: K3, p3, k2, (p4, C4B) twice, p4, k2, p3, k3.
Row 10: Repeat Row 8.
Row 11: K3, p3, (CP4F, CP4B) 3 times, p3, k3.

Repeat Rows 4-11 four times. 
K 4 rows. Bind off.

Now for the chart. Those of you who struggled with my very first chart can laugh at this one. I numbered the horizontal squares.

The same rules apply from the first chart: the top, bottom, and side borders are not shown; and odd rows read right to left and even rows read left to right. Had I realized how complex the chart would be, I would have used this as the third block. Notice that the purl stitches in the Purl cables are shown by a red triangle.


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## StitchDesigner

Clelita said:


> I'm following the workshop, but can't start the blocks until I finish the heels in the socks from the other workshop. Now I know that there are corrections to the initial instructions. Would it be possible to delete the PDFs and messages with instructions that have been corrected?
> Thanks for doing this challenging workshop!


I don't know, though I think so. To the monitors, The last edition of each pattern is the most correct.


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## StitchDesigner

EllenCrafts said:


> OMG I can't believe what I've been doing. I was 2 repeats into the pattern when I knew there was a mistake in one of the cable rows. Before I sat Down to figure it out a correction was made to the pattern. So I ripped out and to that point. Not happy with result, so I started over. No big deal. More problems, start over again. And again. So I'm finally into pattern again and checking for problems. It looks totally different. So I decide to go to bed. Re-read directions today. Yep I'm doing it right. Why does my pattern look off? Doesn't even cross. So I'm thinking of scrapping the whole thing again THEN I turn it over and I find the RIGHT side! So glad I can continue on! I'm at the point I just want to finish this one.


Ellen, that is so funny. I do understand. I have had to frog and start over so many times I sometimes feel like I live in a pond!


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## StitchDesigner

Here comes Block 3!


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## StitchDesigner

BRAIDED CABLES *Incorrect see V2 *

Are you ready? Block 3 should be a breeze after Celtic Trellis. Its a 3-part cable. Done over a large number (9 or 12) of stitches it looks great down the middle of a sweater. The only new thing about this cable is how the cables are used.

This is so easy, if you have never used a chart, try using this one first. You can look back to the pattern, but I think youll like it.

Abbreviations:

KKnit
PPurl
C6FSlip 3 stitches onto cable needle. Hold in front. Knit next 3 stitches. Knit the 3 stitches off of the cable needle.
C6BSlip 3 stitches onto cable needle. Hold in back. Knit next 3 stitches. Knit the 3 stitches off of the cable needle.
COCast On

CO 36. Knit 4 rows.

Pattern:

Row 1: K3, p2, k9, p2, (k1, p1) twice, p2, k9, p2, k3.
Row 2 and all even Rows: K5, p9, (p1, k1) twice, k2, p9, k5.
Row 3: K3, p2, C6F, k3, p2, (k1, p1) twice, p2, k3, C6B, p2, k3.
Row 5: K3, p2, k3, C6B, p2, (k1, p1) twice, p2, C6F, k3, p2, k3.

Remember to do a Row 6.

Repeat Rows 1-6 nine times.

Repeat Rows 5 & 6.

Knit 4 rows. Bind off.

Heres also the Chart. As before the top and bottom borders of knit 4 rows and the side borders of knit 3 are not on the chart.


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## StitchDesigner

And here is the PDF.


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## StitchDesigner

lupines said:


> Hi just a question please. C4F and C4B mean cable, 4 stitches wide, with needle hanging either front (F) or back (B). So far easy. (And all stitches are knit.)
> 
> CP4F and CP4B. Similar to above, except the P means the cable includes purl stitches. One of these purls the stitches from the cable needle and the other purls the stitches from the main piece. Would there ever be a time when CP4F would knit the next two stitches, then purl off of the cable needle? Or is there a different abbreviation for that?? (If I were making up these abbreviations, my instinct would be C4PB, because the purl is the second part of the cable - ie purl off of the cable needle). Or am I just over thinking this???
> Now that I've done three repeats of the trellis cable , the wrong side rows seem intuitive, plus I am able to adjust tension a little on the wrong side if the "Holes" next to the cable seem too large.
> A wonderful class- I'm learning so much... Thanks.


Cables can just about do whatever you want them to. And there is no standard for cable abbreviations. My CP4F could and might be different than some other designer's. You must read the stitch guide very carefully. Maybe even do a swatch (don't you just hate them!) and try the cable on it.


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## kaixixang

I only need one circular and a smaller DPN (to help turn the cables). The coilless safety pins can be purchased in the beading section of SOME shops (I'm sure this may be true in Canada, and overseas).


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## bkennard

Here is my braided cable square/retangle. This was way to fun to make.


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## unie

OK, I'm not really happy with this, but here it is ..


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## jadancey

Here are my first two blocks. I found the Celtic Trellis challenging, but enjoyed working both of them. Thank you for a very good workshop and excellent instructions. Now onto number three.


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## janwalla

This is my second block, hopefully will get my third one done soon. Ill get the afghan done yet! thankyou! you have motivated me at last and these blocks are the perfect solution sorry bout the dark colour hope it will show up.


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## StitchDesigner

janwalla said:


> Thanks, Everyone's blocks are so good. This is a great tutorial! I even used the graph this time! I had to colour code it so i could see when it was changing, but it worked for me and the graph is such a pretty thing now! lol


And now you're not afraid of charts. The chart looks like the knitting.


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## StitchDesigner

Everyone's blocks are good and they all show your effort. If you have had trouble with any block and you keep at it, you learn you can overcome a knitting obstacle.


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## Designer1234

I think we are ready to open a "PARADE OF STEP-BY-STEP CABLES, WITH STITCH DESIGNER, tomorrow. I will open it and put the link on here and you can put the pictures of all your blocks you have finished and those you still will do there.


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## StitchDesigner

Designer1234 said:


> I think we are ready to open a "PARADE OF STEP-BY-STEP CABLES, WITH STITCH DESIGNER, tomorrow. I will open it and put the link on here and you can put the pictures of all your blocks you have finished and those you still will do there.


Great, I'm gonna love it! Everyone is doing so well!! Next, something that would be outstanding on a child's sweater--Hugs and Kisses.


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## EllenCrafts

Here's my 2nd cable block. I found my biggest mistakes were the position of the yarn when cabling. I frequently did it wrong and had to frog. But I'm done!

Now I'll go print the next pattern & start after I get some work done around the house.


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## jangmb

This is my first cable block. I had the cable needle in front rather the back on the third cable. I did not have a lifeline and am behind in the workshops -- so I left it. I am really happy with the rest of my block. This is a great workshop. Cable three sticks out like a sore thumb on this photo!!?


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## StitchDesigner

*Here's the corrected pattern for Block 3*. From now on corrections will have a version #, just like software. Easier for Designer1234 to track, and me, too! :lol:

*BRAIDED CABLES (v. 2)9/color]*

Notice the v.2? This is an updated version.

Are you ready? Block 3 should be a breeze after Celtic Trellis. Its a 3-part cable. Done over a large number (9 or 12) of stitches it looks great down the middle of a sweater. The only new thing about this cable is how the cables are used.

This is so easy, if you have never used a chart, try using this one first. You can look back to the pattern, but I think youll like it.

Abbreviations:

KKnit
PPurl
C6FSlip 3 stitches onto cable needle. Hold in front. Knit next 3 stitches. Knit the 3 stitches off of the cable needle.
C6BSlip 3 stitches onto cable needle. Hold in back. Knit next 3 stitches. Knit the 3 stitches off of the cable needle.
COCast On

CO 36. Knit 4 rows.

Pattern:

Row 1: K3, p2, k9, p2, (k1, p1) twice, p2, k9, p2, k3.
Row 2 and all even Rows: K5, p9, k2, (p1, k1) twice, k2, p9, k5.
Row 3: K3, p2, C6F, k3, p2, (k1, p1) twice, p2, k3, C6B, p2, k3.
Row 5: K3, p2, k3, C6B, p2, (k1, p1) twice, p2, C6F, k3, p2, k3.

Remember to do a Row 6.

Repeat Rows 1-6 nine times.

Repeat Rows 5 & 6.

Knit 4 rows. Bind off.


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## StitchDesigner

Nilda muniz said:


> I am knitting Row 5 of the second chart and ran short of stitches when following the written instructions. My understanding is that I need to do (C4F, P4) 3 times, but I am finishing with 4 stitches left, instead of 8 in order to knit p5, k3. Please help me see the light. Thank you. Did I miss a revised version of the chart?


Here's the PDF for Block 2.


----------



## StitchDesigner

Block 2 has gone AWOL. I am re-posting.

*CELTIC TRELLIS*

Hi! Welcome to the 2nd Block of the Cables workshop. This will be the Celtic Trellis. Trellis I think you can figure out, but why Celtic? Celtic patterns show up a lot in Aran sweaters. One thing all open Celtic patterns have in common is the over-under cable work. The leg that was held in back before will be worked in front, and vice versa.

This can be used as a filler stitch between a much larger cable. I have also seen it used as the main pattern. There are 4 different cable twists in this block, so pay attention.

CELTIC TRELLIS

Abbreviations:

COCast On
KKnit
PPurl
RSRight Side

C4F--Slip the next 2 stitches, purlwise, to a cable needle. Let the cable needle hang in the front of your work. The yarn must be behind the work. K the next 2 stitches. You want the 1st stitch to be a little snug. Now, using the cable needle, and making sure it has not twisted, K those 2 stitches. Make sure the last stitch is snug.

C4B--Slip the next 2 stitches, purlwise, to a cable needle. Let the cable needle hang in the back of the work. The yarn should be between it and the working needles. Knit the next 2 stitches, make sure the 1st stitch is snug. Knit the 2 off of the cable needle, making sure the last stitch is snug.

CP4F--Slip the next 2 stitches, purlwise, to a cable needle. Let the cable needle hang in the front of your work. The yarn must be in front of the work. Purl the next 2 stitches. K the 2 off of the cable needle.

CP4B--Slip the next 2 stitches, purlwise, to a cable needle. Let the cable needle hang in the back of the work. The yarn should be in front of the work. K the next two stitches. Place the yarn behind the cable needle. P the 2 stitches off of it.

CO 36 stitches.

K the first 3 rows.

Row 4: K8, (p4, k4) twice, p4, k8.
Row 5: (RS) K3, p5, (C4F, P4) 3 times, p1, k3.*CORRECTED - ROW FIVE*( Please change your written pattern)
Row 6: Repeat Row 4.
Row 7: K3, p3, (CP4B, CP4F) 3 times, p3, k3.
Row 8: K6, p2, (k4, p4) twice, k4, p2, k6.
Row 9: K3, p3, k2, (p4, C4B) twice, p4, k2, p3, k3.
Row 10: Repeat Row 8.
Row 11: K3, p3, (CP4F, CP4B) 3 times, p3, k3.

Repeat Rows 4-11 four times. 
K 4 rows. Bind off.

Now for the chart. Those of you who struggled with my very first chart can laugh at this one. I numbered the horizontal squares.

The same rules apply from the first chart: the top, bottom, and side borders are not shown; and odd rows read right to left and even rows read left to right. Had I realized how complex the chart would be, I would have used this as the third block. Notice that the purl stitches in the Purl cables are shown by a red triangle.

*DESIGNER HERE -LADIES- PLEASE CORRECT THE WRITTEN PATTERN IN your DOWNLOAD (ROW 5)*

Again, just ask away, Ill get back as soon as I can.


----------



## RydersMum

The difference in block sizes top to bottom is definitely not going to work. I don't want to do the 4 rows of border, to have to frog and add more later. Ya know?


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## Sockmouth

Finally finished with the second pattern. It's a pretty pattern but its also a hard pattern and I'm glad to be done with it. The next one looks easier. Sure hope so.


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## StitchDesigner

Catlover1960 has it right. My blocks matched in size. Just add a couple of repeats until they match. Remember, there are more cable columns, so the width will be different. They should both be 36 stitches. And could your gauge have changed?


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## It'sJustMe

OK, here's my proof of workshop attendance. This has been great for me, StitchDesigner. My goals have been to learn cables (check), and to continue my education in working from a chart (check). I even re-wrote your charts to resemble how the squares look from the right-side...don't know why, but I find it easier to reverse the wrong-side stitches in my head as I knit. 
Not so crazy about the yarn I used - 100% acrylic with little bounce, and prone to being splitty - but I was never gonna use it for anything else anyway. And it did teach me that a little bit of mushy, which is doesn't have, is good for cables 
Now on to the Celtic Trellis...


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## RydersMum

StitchDesigner said:


> Catlover1960 has it right. My blocks matched in size. Just add a couple of repeats until they match. Remember, there are more cable columns, so the width will be different. They should both be 36 stitches. And could your gauge have changed?


It wasn't the side to side difference. I knew that would be shorter because of more cables. I was referring to the length difference.

My guage shouldn't have changed. S am e yarn and same needles and actually I've tried practicing being lower since I knit tight to begin with. Lol tight and cables down quite work well! Lol


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## StitchDesigner

janwalla said:


> RydersMum said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> StitchDesigner said:
> 
> 
> 
> Catlover1960 has it right. My blocks matched in size. Just add a couple of repeats until they match. Remember, there are more cable columns, so the width will be different. They should both be 36 stitches. And could your gauge have changed?
> 
> 
> 
> It wasn't the side to side difference. I knew that would be shorter because of more cables. I was referring to the length difference.
> 
> My guage shouldn't have changed. S am e yarn and same needles and actually I've tried practicing being lower since I knit tight to begin with. Lol tight and cables down quite work well! Lol
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I would PM stitch designer and ask her advice, she may have a solution or an amended block that you could do? It must be really frustrating, I feel for you.
Click to expand...

Just do more vertical repeats.


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## StitchDesigner

*Here is the corrected and (I hope) final Celtic Trellis WRITTEN pattern. The chart is correct*.

*CELTIC TRELLIS*
(v.2.?)

Abbreviations:

COCast On
KKnit
PPurl
RSRight Side

C4F--Slip the next 2 stitches, purlwise, to a cable needle. Let the cable needle hang in the front of your work. The yarn must be behind the work. K the next 2 stitches. You want the 1st stitch to be a little snug. Now, using the cable needle, and making sure it has not twisted, K those 2 stitches. Make sure the last stitch is snug.

C4B--Slip the next 2 stitches, purlwise, to a cable needle. Let the cable needle hang in the back of the work. The yarn should be between it and the working needles. Knit the next 2 stitches, make sure the 1st stitch is snug. Knit the 2 off of the cable needle, making sure the last stitch is snug.

CP4F--Slip the next 2 stitches, purlwise, to a cable needle. Let the cable needle hang in the front of your work. The yarn must be in front of the work. Purl the next 2 stitches. K the 2 off of the cable needle.

CP4B--Slip the next 2 stitches, purlwise, to a cable needle. Let the cable needle hang in the back of the work. The yarn should be in front of the work. K the next two stitches. Place the yarn behind the cable needle. P the 2 stitches off of it.

CO 36 stitches.

K the first 3 rows.

Row 4: K8, (p4, k4) twice, p4, k8.
*Row 5: (RS) K3, p5, (C4F, P4) 3 times, p1, k3*.
Row 6: Repeat Row 4.
Row 7: K3, p3, (CP4B, CP4F) 3 times, p3, k3.
Row 8: K6, p2, (k4, p4) twice, k4, p2, k6.
Row 9: K3, p3, k2, (p4, C4B) twice, p4, k2, p3, k3.
Row 10: Repeat Row 8.
Row 11: K3, p3, (CP4F, CP4B) 3 times, p3, k3.

Repeat Rows 4-11 four times. 
K 4 rows. Bind off.

Now for the chart. Those of you who struggled with my very first chart can laugh at this one. I numbered the horizontal squares.

The same rules apply from the first chart:  the top, bottom, and side borders are not shown; and odd rows read right to left and even rows read left to right. Notice that the purl stitches in the Purl cables are shown by a red triangle.


----------



## 44gram

Here's my third block. I'm pleased. Many thanks StitchDesigner


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## catlover1960

Here are my completed blocks


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## Designer1234

Catlover1960 They look absolutely beautiful. Great job. 

I will open a Parade today ''

it will be called "Parade of 'Step by step Cables Workshop " with Stitch Designer. I will post the link in a few minutes. Once it is open you are welcome to post pictures of your work there.


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## Designer1234

*HERE IS THE LINK TO THE PARADE*"

*http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-157168-1.html#3016406*

*PLEASE PUT YOUR OWN BLOCKS IN* - that way your name will be attached to them. If you would rather me do it - please let me know , but I would ask you all to put your own blocks in if possible. We would like ALL the blocks to be included . I wan't people to see what a great job you have all done.


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## StitchDesigner

HUGS AND KISSES

As the name implies, this cable will make Xs and Os. Its ideal for baby and young childrens clothing and afghans.

This pattern requires careful attention to the pattern. This is certainly the pattern to use a lifeline on. Ask on the workshop and Ill explain if you dont know how. I also very strongly suggest that you use a marker for the front of the block. This stitch is almost reversible. You can get lost in it. I did. This cable does not cross over the cable parts, they just move back and forth over the background. You must pay attention. NO TV.

Abbreviations:

COCast On
KKnit
PPurl
C4BPSlip 2 stitches purlwise onto cable needle. Hold in back. K next 2 stitches. Purl 2 stitches off of cable needle.
C4FPSlip next 2 stitches onto cable needle. Hold in front. P next 2 stitches. K the 2 stitches off of cable needle.

CO 36 stitches.

K 4 rows.

Row 5: K3, p2, k4, p2, k2, (k1, p1) 3 times, p2, k2, p4, k2, p2, k3.
Row 6: K5, p2, k4, p2, k2, (p1, k1) 3 times, k2, p2, k4, p2, k5.
Row 7: K3, p2, C4FP, C4BP, p2, (k1, p1) 3 times, p2, C4FP, C4BP, p2, k3.
Row 8: K7, p4, k4, (p1, k1) 3 times, k4, p4, k7.
Row 9: K3, p4, k4, p4, (k1, p1) 3 times, p4, k4, p4, k3.
Row 10: Repeat Row 8.
Row 11: K3, p2, C4BP, C4FP, p2, (k1, p1) 3 times, p2, C4BP, C4FP, p2, k3.
Row 12: Repeat Row 6.
Rows 13 & 14: Repeat Rows 9 & 10.
Rows 15 & 16: Repeat Rows 11 & 6.
Rows 17-20: Repeat Rows 5-8.

Repeat Rows 5-20 twice more (3 times total).
K 4 rows. Bind Off.

I hope you can see the Os and Xs ok. There will be no chart with this. I can barely hold a pencil.


----------



## StitchDesigner

And the PDF:


----------



## StitchDesigner

bkennard said:


> On row 5 I did a purl 2 before the k1p1 repeat. It looks like it is going to work.


Except I said to k4. It should be p4. Only Row 5 is wrong and badly wrong. Here is the corrected pattern. I went through row-by-row.

HUGS AND KISSES

V. 2.0

As the name implies, this cable will make Xs and Os. Its ideal for baby and young childrens clothing and afghans.

This pattern requires careful attention to the pattern. This is certainly the pattern to use a lifeline on. Ask on the workshop and Ill explain if you dont know how. I also very strongly suggest that you use a marker for the front of the block. This stitch is almost reversible. You can get lost in it. I did. This cable does not cross over the cable parts, they just move back and forth over the background. You must pay attention. NO TV.

Abbreviations:

COCast On
KKnit
PPurl
C4BPSlip 2 stitches purlwise onto cable needle. Hold in back. K next 2 stitches. Purl 2 stitches off of cable needle.
C4FPSlip next 2 stitches onto cable needle. Hold in front. P next 2 stitches. K the 2 stitches off of cable needle.

CO 36 stitches.

K 4 rows.

Row 5: K3, p2, k2, p4, k2, p2, (k1, p1) 3 times, p2, k2, p4, k2, p2, k3.
Row 6: K5, p2, k4, p2, k2, (p1, k1) 3 times, k2, p2, k4, p2, k5.
Row 7: K3, p2, C4FP, C4BP, p2, (k1, p1) 3 times, p2, C4FP, C4BP, p2, k3.
Row 8: K7, p4, k4, (p1, k1) 3 times, k4, p4, k7.
Row 9: K3, p4, k4, p4, (k1, p1) 3 times, p4, k4, p4, k3.
Row 10: Repeat Row 8.
Row 11: K3, p2, C4BP, C4FP, p2, (k1, p1) 3 times, p2, C4BP, C4FP, p2, k3.
Row 12: Repeat Row 6.
Rows 13 & 14: Repeat Rows 9 & 10.
Rows 15 & 16: Repeat Rows 11 & 6.
Rows 17-20: Repeat Rows 5-8.

Repeat Rows 5-20 twice more (3 times total).
K 4 rows. Bind Off.

I hope you can see the Os and Xs ok. There will be no chart with this. I can barely hold a pencil.


----------



## StitchDesigner

EllenCrafts said:


> Last night before sending the message about line 5 I decided to try to chart it. This is what I came up with. I have never read a chart before last week and this is my first attempt at one.
> 
> I decided to try and see if I could find the error. Your fix is what I thought it should be! So if I did chart this correctly, you are free to use it. I tried to PM this note, but could not add an attachment.
> 
> It's truly been a learning experience for me! Thank you!


*Ellen, big kudos for you! Your chart is great! I think letting the group just do this one from the instructions should work for this pattern*.

Concerning charts, now you know why the people who regularly use them love them. When done properly, they look like the knitting or crochet. A real visual tool.

*For this pattern each hug/kiss column would count as 2 cable columns so you would need 4 extra stitches added to the body of a garment* Hey, team this with blocks of bobble hearts for a beautiful baby afghan!


----------



## TLL

Ok, I am confused...thought I would play with the chart for Hugs and Kisses and came up with my cables appearing to go the opposite direction of Ellen's chart.  Please help. Thank you!


----------



## StitchDesigner

TLL said:


> Ok, I am confused...thought I would play with the chart for Hugs and Kisses and came up with my cables appearing to go the opposite direction of Ellen's chart.  Please help. Thank you!


That's a good example of why one should not try to do anything technical while in pain.

Your chart is opposite of Ellen's chart and is correct. Ellen's will get you there eventually, I think. Being in constant pain is one reason why I'm stopping at 4 blocks. I find I don't think as clearly.

I apologize to everyone on the workshop. It could have been done much better. I will be here for questions. And, as always, on the open forum.


----------



## jangmb

StitchDesigner said:


> That's a good example of why one should not try to do anything technical while in pain.
> 
> Your chart is opposite of Ellen's chart and is correct. Ellen's will get you there eventually, I think. Being in constant pain is one reason why I'm stopping at 4 blocks. I find I don't think as clearly.
> 
> I apologize to everyone on the workshop. It could have been done much better. I will be here for questions. And, as always, on the open forum.


Well, I do hope it is not too serious. I am half finished with the celtic trellis. Goofed on the first try, used the wrong directions for the purl stitches - so started over. That's what happens when you make assumptions. I do hope you get some relief - pain is a difficult thing to deal with as it just can be so all consuming. I will continue to pray for you and wish you well I will be paying attention for when you do feel better and decide to add to the cable samples. This is another wonderful learning experience for me.  I will continue with the celtic trellis and then the last two.

:lol: :lol:


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## StitchDesigner

CU Volunteer said:


> I /am totally confused as to which chart is correct? I am one of the strange people who hate to have to rip out. Let me know what chart is correct so I can get started on this design Thanks heaps


TLL's chart is the correct one. Just remember, there are purl stitches in these cables. Sorry.


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## 44gram

Hope you are better StitchDesigner
I'm finding this new one very awkward for me. Can't seem to get a rhythm going
Back to work ;-)


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## 44gram

EllenCrafts said:


> Designer1234. Would you please delete my charts? I found a few mistakes in the last 2 lines as well as mixing up the cables & codes. I don't want to cause confusion for anyone. Thank you!


Never mind I just read all the posts


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## 44gram

StitchDesigner said:


> That's a good example of why one should not try to do anything technical while in pain.
> 
> Your chart is opposite of Ellen's chart and is correct. Ellen's will get you there eventually, I think. Being in constant pain is one reason why I'm stopping at 4 blocks. I find I don't think as clearly.
> 
> I apologize to everyone on the workshop. It could have been done much better. I will be here for questions. And, as always, on the open forum.


I'm very sorry you are still in pain. I hope it subsides soon

Thank you so much for the time you were able to give. I have a beginner's grasp of cables thanks to you and think practice will refine my technique.

Perhaps when you are better you will be able to offer another class


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## StitchDesigner

EllenCrafts said:


> I just started working on hugs & kisses. I want to make sure I'm doing it correctly. Do I slip the stitches differently between the 2 cable stitches? Up until now I have done them all purlwise. I noticed C4BP says purlwise, but C4FP just says to slip.


The usual rule concerning "slipping" stitches is: If *decreasing*, slip knitwise; all other is slip purlwise, unless instructed otherwise. All cables slip to cable needle stitches would be slipped purlwise.


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## StitchDesigner

TLL said:


> My understanding is that when there is a "P" in the instructions, it means purlwise.


When you see a "P" in a cable abbreviation it refers to some of the cable stitches being actually purled, not to the slipped-to-cable stitches. This is because most cables are all knit on front. When some designers want you to purl some of the stitches they will put a "P" in the abbreviation. It has *nothing* to do with how to slip the stitches.


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## StitchDesigner

I will be closing the workshop on Thursday, April 4. Thank you everyone for participating. I hope you learned both more about cables and that you can do them. 

Thank you everyone.


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## Designer1234

Hi everyone, thanks for thegreat workshop. I will be spending the next couple of days trimming out the non class posts, so if your post disappears that is the reason. We try to keep the workshop as easy to read as possible for those who read it after it is closed. 


Thanks for joining us and I hope to see you in another workshop. Please don't hesitate to look in at the other open workshops and watch for those that are starting in April. Designer1234


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## Designer1234

*THIS WORKSHOP IS NOW CLOSED AND LOCKED. YOU ARE WELCOME TO READ IT, COPY IT AND USE IT FOR FUTURE INFORMATION* Please keep this information on the KP forum. It was taught by a KP member for KP students.

Thanks for referring to this workshop. Please read the information from page one; Thanks very much designer1234

April 4/2013

If you want information about these workshops, please click on "*E*" topic on the workshop section


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## Designer1234

HERE ARE ALL THE PATTERNS IN PDF AND DOCX DOWNLOADS FOR YOUR INFORMATION. YOU ARE WELCOME TO COPY THEM AND USE THEM IF YOU ARE A MEMBER OF KNITTING PARADISE. Thanks to GinB for doing them for us. Designer1234

see below- we would recommend that you use the following downloads as they have been test knitted and are easier to read. thank you very much.


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## Designer1234

*COMPLETE SERIES OF CABLES FROM THIS WORKSHOP IN PDF OR DOCK X* --- These are GIN B's version

*Please note the correctedBraided cables will be posted 
asap*.

These that are posted are tested and correctly written

Thanks to Gin B for testing and re writing these patterns! Designer1234


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## prismaticr

Topic is now closed. For additional information not found on these pages. please try and private message (pm) the listed teacher.

Thank you and happy knitting/crocheting!


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