# #1-CLOSED-COAT OF MANY COLORS - design your own Cardigan, OR top down cardigan



## Designer1234

*WELCOME TO OUR WORKSHOP SECTION. Please be sure you check out all our open and closed workshops in the Workshop home section.

Just go to the top or bottom of this page (same line as the page numbers)and click the "Knitting and Crochet workshops with Designer1234" There you will find many workshops taught by our volunteer teachers, all members of KP -You are welcome to use all the information on this closed workshop and we hope it is helpful*.

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 HI EVERYONE!----------

I hope you enjoy this workshop. (for the* Coat of many colours it is actually more of a class - where you will learn a new technique for designing your own sweater*.

The top down will follow a pattern and you will design different elements for it to make it an original. Shirley Designer


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## Designer1234

----------------- INFORMATION

*SCROLL DOWN TO SEE PICTURES OF THE COAT OF MANY COLORS*
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-*- COAT OF MANY COLORS Sweater "A"*
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
The first one we will talk about will be my COAT OF MANY COLORS .

This sweater (A) is a drop sleeve cardigan with a plain colored yoke and a multi colored bottom section. The bottom section will be knitted vertically. It is knit from the bottom UP.

You will also need to have markers on hand -- scissors, blunt needle - and whatever other knitting supplies you use.

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NOTE: please set up a NOTEBOOK 
You will use a notebook to keep track of what you are doing - number of stitches, inches, all the things you do - you won't remember it for future use - 
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 plans for your 'A" COAT OF MANY COLORS 

You can decide whether you want to use
#1 different variegated yarns, for the bottom, plain colored 
yoke and sleeves

#2 - different colored yarns from your stash ( that is what I used in the avatar.

My sweaters are all done with the variety of colors -but be prepared to spend some time weaving in your ends- ( I found it easier to do this as I went along
rather than wait until the sweater was finished.

3 = do your sweater in one color using different patterns.

*#4 - or do your bottom in different width stripes or the same width stripes. remember when the bottom is finished the stripes will be vertical - not horizontal the way it is knitted. 
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You can do the bottom of the cardigan in one long piece ,knit sideways around the body - incorporating strips of color, intarsia colors (like my avatar), different colors and different stitches -- or one or two plain colors.* Once you follow the ideas here, you will knit the bottoms sideways in strips but turn them before you start the yoke so that the strips will then be vertical.

YOU will be the one who designs this sweater- I just help you figure out the method.

I have decided to do my sweater the way I always do -first the back and then two fronts separately - and I rather like doing it that way - especially if you want to take a tuck under the arm to help shape the sweater.

f you want to do it i IN ONE PIECE AROUND THE CIRCUMFERENCE you will have to divide it under the arms , holding both fronts on holders while you do the back -- etc. (we can decide that when you get your bottom finished.)

---------------I M P O R T A N T !!-------------------

You do NOT have to mark down all the following measurements to make these sweaters. HOwever, I strongly suggest that the more measurements of your body you can have together in your notebook -the easier it will be to do your own designing- 
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For the "Coat of many Colors sweater- you will need the measure #4 on the list- and also measure from your under arm to 2 or 3 inches above where you want the bottom of your sweater or coat. 
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For the TOP DOWN (B), you need to measure the circumference of your neck -- if you want a high neck, - you can then add inches if you want a wider neck line.

We will do the other measurements as we go along.
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As you take your measurements please put them in your notebook for future use.

*1: circumference of YOUR NECK - * - 
2-Around the bust --circumference
3: around the waist (circumference) 
*4: Around the widest point of your stomach or hips *-- If you have a larger measure ment around the stomach then use this measurement - if it is the hips , use this measurement.
5: Length from the back of the neck where the neck band or collar will be to the waistline.
5A-from the neck to where you want the yoke to end (under the arm works best)
6: Length of the front of the neck where the collar or neck band will be to the waist line -- There should be at least 6" difference between 5 and 6 -- 
I usually do a straight back neck and have it fairly narrow and have the front neck dip lower - especially if I am doing a pullover - as it has to go over the head and I like the fit better than a wider neck--
7: width across of back neck - straight across from one side of the neck to the other. 7a- width of top of sleeve to the shoulder-
8: length of each front side of the cardigan- starting at the shoulder seam, and curving to to top of your cardigan -- YOu can vary this measurement with each sweater. You can also add a collar --this can be adjusted to the sweater you decide to make -- put this measurement in anyway so you will have it. 
9 - You now will measure from the shoulder neck to the
bottom of the yoke. I always use at least 7" most of my cardigans are more than that. -- if you are busty -- you will measure to the neck and when the time comes to knit your sweater you will use larger needles for the front portion and also, if you are knowledgeable enough you can use short rows to increase the size for the bust --The yoke measurement should be from the shoulder to under the arm - where it will be attached to the bottom of the sweater.
10 - from the bottom of the yoke to 2"-3" above the length of your sweater-
11.You will also measure straight up from under the arm to the shoulder - this will be a DROP SLEEVE-CARDIGAN so you don't need to shape the shoulder. If you are an experience knitter you may decide to shape the arm holes but I recommend you knit along with us. All my original coats of many colors are drop sleeves.

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*REMEMBER: WE do this sweater (A) by MEASUREMENTS - NOT BY PATTERN *-- it is not difficult.- but it is a different way of doing things. You should not have to look at a pattern while you do this, unless it is at the neck and you know the number of stitches you like around your neck.
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. 
We will be using  worsted weight yarn - or sport weight yarn -- if you do the bottom in worsted - you will do the sleeves and yoke in worsted, OR sport weight yarn works well for this sweater too - it will be lighter .(it will mean more knitting -- If you use worsted -size 5.5 needles 
if you use sport - size 5 needles- (this is not written in stone) you can decide this for yourself as we will be doing a swatch to figure out the number of stitches per inch. Once you have done a swatch you won't change the needle size unless you want a larger yoke in the fronts of the sweater to meet a larger bust size. (I would do a swatch using both size needles in this case)

Make sure you make your swatch -- it should be at least 5 INCHES SQUARE. Look at the stitch thickness and decide if you want it looser or tighter. Once you decide on your needles, you will use them for the whole sweater (except as stated above and the cuff ribs, rib around the neck and down the front and the border at the bottom which will be added last - 2 - 2.5 inches.)


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## Designer1234

Once you have your measurements we will do the swatch and figure out the number of stitches and how we do the bottom of the sweater. 

Please have your Measurements , yarn and needles ready to start - .

The first section of the sweater will be the bottom of the sweater - from the bottom of the yoke to the bottom border. We will figure out how many stitches you will need and how long your back will be in the next lesson -- Just get all your supplies together and get your measurements. once we all have this done we can start our sweaters any time after that .


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## Designer1234

*SWEATER B -- TOP DOWN SWEATER -*

NOTE:

The top down sweater  DOES use a pattern and is not my own design.

Either use a free simple basic cardigan pattern or use the one below which is the pattern I used.

KNITTING PURE AND SIMPLE
neck down jacket #201

-

I have knitted it to look like a bomber jacket with stripes and quite short- will decide for yourself how you want to make your cardigan. -

I would suggest you

use worsted weight yarn (whatever type you wish) and 5.5 mm (US 9) or sport weight yarn 5 mm (US 8).

- do a couple of swatches and decide who tight you want your knitting in your sweater. Take into account whether you are going to do different knitting stitches, or whether you will do a stocking stitch incorporating different colors like mine.

You will start at the NECK - and will put the bands and collar on after the sweater body if finished. If you wish you can put a pattern on the sleeves -- if you are golng to put a cable or cables any whereon this sweater you will have to add extra stitches. There is lots of information on the net as to how many stitches to add for different sized cables.

The only measurement you will need to start is your 'neck' circumference.

if you have a favorite cardigan and you like the size of the neck measure it and figure out the stitches needed. - 
A collar will be added at the end if you decide you want one.
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---- OUR PLAN----- 

We want to adjust this pattern to fit our body and to use either color or different stitch patterns to make it an original.
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The number of stitches for the neck will be decided once you have done a swatch and taken your measurements.

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With this sweater - I would love to see you pick a nice ribbed or lace pattern for the bottom portion. I would recommend that you do the top as a yoke -- and when you take the live stitches for the sleeves - you start a pretty vertical pattern for the bottom section. So ladies -- start thinking about what you want to do with this sweater. The bomber jacket shown which is made from the basic pattern with colored stripes added and is knitted only waist length.

Use the same size needles as your pattern calls for -HOWEVER . If you want it lacier, or a tighter stitch or if you want to put in cables -- you can figure out the cast on numbers by doing swatches of the pattern so you know your stitches per inch and incorporating them into the sweater.-

NECK
You will need the measurement for your neck - if you have a favorite cardigan and you like the size of the neck - keep track of the pattern and you can measure it and we can incorporate it into the sweater. I always like to put a collar on my cardigans I do it after the sweater is put together .
Shirley


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## Designer1234

Here are the links to the two original workshops we did prior to this one. you might want to check them out. I hope this one won't be as confusing and that once we are finished I can remove all the posts that don't add to the KAL - so others can get the information.

http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-29345-1.html

http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-50237-1.html


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## Designer1234

*INFORMATION*:*  how to make a good SWATCH* ( this is very important - especially for the Coat of Many colors --or if you plan on changing the pattern on the top down sweater
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_you don't have to pay too much attention to the information on the yarn band as once you know your # of stitches per inch and your yarn - you can figure out your c/o yourself to fit your body._
You therefore can make your sweater loosely knit or tightly knit - depending on what you want to use it for. If you are in a warmer climate you might want a lighter weight cardigan - I would then recommend the sport weight yarn rather than the worsted. ( You can even use a finer yarn, but you will find that you don't want to do it TOO lacy for your first one.

--------------------*S W A T C H* ----- *IGNORE if you are experienced.

Cast on 20 stitches -- DON'T PULL IT TIGHT - you might want to use one size larger needles than the size you plan on using for two rows of the cast on edge. then go to the size needles you plan on using - suggestion - you might want to try 3 different swatches with 3 different size needles to see what appeals to you for your sweater.

knit a square in stocking stitch (if you plan on using a stocking stitch for the majority of your sweater- try to knit the same tension you always knit.

Cast off once you have a square - mark down in your notebook under 'swatch' 
how many stitches you cast on - with what size needles and then what size needles you do the whole swatch with.

Once you have a square -- you will the carefully count the number of stitches over 4 inches -- ( I use a little tool for measuring my swatch - see attached. It is very handy - you lay the measuring tool on the knitted swatch IN THE CENTER OF THE SWATCH - NOT AT THE EDGE making sure that you have one side of the opening on the edge of a stitch - The opening is 2" long and 2" tall -- carefully count how many stitches there are in the two inch window horizontally - and mark it down in your notebook. cut that number in half and you will have the STITCHES PER INCH. The vertical opening is done the same way, only you will count the number of ROWS in the two inch vertical window -- and mark it down - then you will divide that number in half and you will write down the number of ROWS PER INCH- \

NOTE - it is best to get a counter like theone I have shown you - but you Can. if you are careful -using a flat ruler and measuring two inches in the 'center' of the swatch- and counting the number, figure out your stitches and rows per inch. I would suggest you try to find the counter as I use mine all the time.

NOW you have all the information needed for your sweater.

The one thing I can't give you is the yardage of your yarn or the number of grams -- as each of you are doing a different sweater. If you are doing my pattern (A) you are going to be using your stash so you don't need to have it. If you are doing (B) I would look at the amount mentioned on the pattern and if you think you are going to do cables or stitches that will take more yarn you might want to buy an extra ball.


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## taznwinston

QUESTION.. is it true the top down raglans are easier to do than the bottom up with a set in sleeve? I Like the green one with the added length but am afraid I won't be able to do the sleeves? Which is an easier sleeve, since this is my first time doing a fitted pattern? Also, which is more flattering to a pear shape, wide hips and smaller shoulders? I'd make a perfect A if I were a letter. LOl


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## Designer1234

ANSWER

Neither one is difficult-- if you want to make one like the Green one - it is not hard as it is not a fitted sleeve - it is a drop down sleeve- The body of the sweater is knitted straight up and the sleeves are picked up from the edge. We ill be making the body and I will help when we set up the sleeve. this is about the easiest pattern to use for a cardigan - don't worry!

SHAPE I am small at the top and large at the bottom -- this sweater works well as it has the drop down sleeves - I prefer this type of sweater for my shape.


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## Designer1234

INFORMATION -

The "A "coat is a drop sleeve - which means it is not shaped and you don't have to 'fit' it *This sweater is a fairly loose, not fitted design*. I have done others with fitted sleeves but the idea of this get together is to learn how to figure out your size while you are knitting, and therefore how to calculate how many stitches you will need etc.

It is a very comfortable coat or sweater and I wear my green one all the time in the spring and fall - I would not worry about the sleeves -- we will start by knitting the bottom and as mentioned above we only need two measurements -- around the widest portion of the bottom portion of your stomach or hips (whichever is the widest). we will do each section as we finish the first, so please don't worry abut the yoke or sleeves now -- lets get the basic bottom of the sweater done. 
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 The sweater B  is from a pattern and is mainly to help people who have never tried a top down project before, and as it is a topdown the sleeves look like a dolman sleeve and if you check the pictures you will see that they radiate from the neck. This is not a difficult sweater to make. I am hoping we can discuss different ways to add to the basic pattern as far as different stitches on the collar and down the front, or stripes as in the bomber jacket shown. I have shown my 'bomber' style sweaters, made from this pattern but you can also make longer, straighter jackets, and you can put tucks in yours if you are like me and not one size - but two.

* I have discussed different sweater types near the end of this forum so it is worth it to read it*


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## Designer1234

STARTING SWEATER (B) top down cardigan. the first thing you have to do is figure out how many inches you need for the neck of your sweater.

your pattern will give you the number of cast on stitches- I find that with ALL patterns, the neck is much too large for me. I am one whole size smaller on top than on the bottom and my neck is narrower than that .

I would recommend that you do a swatch using the number of stitches the pattern calls for and figure out whether the neck is right for you. Remember, when patterns are made they are for AVERAGE SIZES - and don't take into consideration the varying shapes we all have. do your swatch - measure your stitches per inch - multiply by your neck circumference and add an inch at least -check out the pattern cast on number - if it is the same great - if it is too many (as in my case ) go down a size, or use smaller needles for the neck -- (I do this with all my sweaters)
Once you have done this - follow your pattern .
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for your information - I don't put in a zipper - I changed the pattern and will either knit or crochet a band down the front of both sides. I also add a fancy collar too. The collar and bands will be included after the sweater body and sleeves are finished.
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This is where you will decide the future of your whole sweater. you don't want the neck too tight but you don't want it huge either. you will note that the neck stitches are divided up so that there are stitches for the front, stitches for the shoulders(which will end up in sleeve stitches, stitches for the back - and the same on the other side - (sleeves and front) you have to divide your sleeve stitches -- check out your pattern and see how they are divided. This is very important.

My pattern calls for a total of 50 stitches for a medium sweater - as my neck is very small I also reduced my needles one size.

If you want a fitted neck -- you can measure your neck in inches -- and ad one inch at least -- if you want a fairly open neck (larger circumference) you cast on more stitches. One thing that you can remember . You can, if your neck is a bit too large, reduce the size when you put on the band - however you don't want to have to reduce the knitted size too much.

On my pattern I adjust to do 2 different sizes - I can do this one of two ways. I can reduce the size of my knitting needles for the top and increase the size for the bottom of the top down sweater (this works quite well (I can also add a couple more stitches under the arm when I am starting the bottom. Remember, you will also be adding a band in the front of the cardigan -

I need a large size sweater but that makes it much too large for my top - so I use a size smaller needle (at least) and also, even with the smaller size needle I might need to reduce the neck numbers to fit a smaller size which on my pattern would be a medium.

MARKERS ARE ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL FOR A TOP DOWN SWEATER in my opinion. I buy a pkgs of the little plastic circles which fit around the needles. Have lots on hand as they have a habit of disappearing into space. If your pattern is confusing -please post here and I will try to help you figure it out.


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## Designer1234

(B) -

once you are doing the portion under the arms you might want to put in a nice group of nice vertical pattern of lace stitches etc.

Here is a site with lots of wonderful knitting stitches

http://www.knittingfool.com/pages/stCatalog.guest.cfm?alpha=L&StartRow=21&PageNum=2

possibly incorporate them in the bottom of your sweater. - plain yoke and lacy ribbed bottom -- and a pattern around the bottom of the sleeves. Might even have a wider sleeve bottom.

the possibilities are endless.


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## Designer1234

***********************************************
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*************************************[/b]

*#2-- "A" COAT OF MANY COLORS[/b ]** -away we go

Now you can start knitting - changing your colors if you wish,doing stripes if you wish - or changing patterns if you wish)

If you are going to do your bottom in intarsia rather than strip-es (changing colors
using your stash)- google Intarsia knitting for instructions as to how to join your colors. If you are having problems with this once you have checked it out on the internet don't hesitate to ask once you get started.

Unless you are an experienced knitter and don't mind weaving in ends throughout the sweater -you might want to do narrow and wide strips each length this will give you vertical strips when you attach the yokes as the bottom is knit sideways..

I always change the colors about 4 stitches from the end the previous row in order to avoid a thick edge, which in the case of this sweater is important, as we will be picking up stitches along both long edges (yoke and border)-  If you want to check out a couple of joining methods - go to the INFORMATION FILE which is another section of this new forum) there are three good yarn joins there

Quite a few of the girls from the last KAL did stripes - some narrow, some wide - one girl did even strips about 2 inches wide. 
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Knit until you have the measurement #4 --and add a bit of slack depending on how loose you want your sweater to be. My measurement is 47 inches and I will do it 48" at least.

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I started my A sweater and figured out my stitches per in.

I am doing my bottom portion (under the arm to the bottom of sweater l9 Inches long and as I am leaving 2" for the bottom border I will therefore make my back l7"long - then add the border when I am finishing my sweater.

I have 3.5 stitches to the inch I multiplied l7 x3.5 to get my c/o stitches (59.5)I rounded it out to 60 stitches and started knitting -- 
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How long do I knit each of my 3 pieces?(back and two fronts)

I will knit it 48" divided by 2 (24"for the Back and l2"each for each front-) as I am doing it in three pieces ---and then check and make sure that it is the right size at that time.

I will therefore cast on 60- stitches which is the HEIGHT (vertical) of the bottom, not the width. This is the confusing part. remember - the 60 stitches is the number needed from the yoke to the bottom so you will cast on 60 stitches for the back and the same number for each of the fronts. You will then knit the lengths you need to go AROUND YOUR BODY. This will be the length you calculate to fit your measurements.

I will knit 24 inches for the back - then cast on 60 stitches and knit two panels of 12" for the two fronts.  Once these are done I will pick up stitches along the row edge and start my yoke --

by the way- I have always done my "A" sweaters in 3 pieces so I have decided to do the same this time as I like the fit. If you wish to make them in one piece, remember you will have to figure out how to divide for the two front yokes and the back.*


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## Designer1234

====Where can I get the bomber jacket pattern on line? ========

 ANSWER 

If you check the first page - under top down sweater -- you will see where I have given this information -the name of the pattern -I use.- I don't use a 'bomber jacket' pattern - it is just a basic top down cardigan pattern - and I have named my sweaters bomber jackets as I have made the pattern waist length with a stripe. As mentioned there - you can use a free basic cardigan sweater pattern instead -- Please read the 'top down sweater (B) instructions and the information is there. Thanks, and good luck. Shirley (designer)


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## Designer1234

We will start with just the the first measurements required. for the *(B) *Top down you will need to measure your neck -- and make a swatch.

for *"A" *my design you will need #4 in your measurements as well as the length from underarm to the bottom of your cardigan (not including a fairly wide border- I use at least a two inch bottom border)


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## Designer1234

I have the bottom of my "A" jacket, well under way . I am posting a picture.

I am leaning towards either the white (hard to keep clean as I am messy_) or the mauve (Canadian) pale purple, or lilac - anyway you know what I mean :wink:


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## Designer1234

-------*-Y O K E I N S T R U C T I O N S ("A" sweater)-*----------

First of all, make sure the bottom portion of your sweater gives you enough slack and fit around the hips. I have basted the three pieces together to make sure they are comfortable and not too tight.

Now make sure you have carefully worked in the yarn ends at both the top and the bottom of your back and fronts or front (in the future, if you want to knit a pullover)

You are now ready to start the yoke.

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*BACK YOKE*

*Working on the right side  cast on (* 3 stitches miss 1* -across the back)as there are more rows than stitches * so you wont require as many stitches * k 3 skip 1* works well for me , but make sure you end up with a nice flat back - you will do the same on the fronts when you get there.
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Now to decide how deep you want your yoke. This is the most difficult part of the sweater to calculate and how you make your yoke depends on whether you are busty or not. I am definitely not so I have been thinking about this since we started doing this workshop. See bottom of this post for some thoughts on how to achieve a bustier yoke. You will have to make your yoke a bit longer if you are bustier than if you are small breasted -- 
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*BACK*

Do 2 or 4 rows reverse stocking stitch starting with the picked up stitches. ( This gives you a nice base for your yoke and hides any problems with your pick up stitches. ) Now you are ready to knit your yoke. Check out the 
picture of my green cardigan -- you can see how the reverse SS gives a nice looking join for attaching the yoke.

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Decide how deep you want your yoke.. This will depend on your size.

I find that a 8 or 9 wide yoke gives me LOTS of room for a cardigan. For my pullover I used a 7 yoke .

If you are bustier on top you might want to do a l0 yoke as you have to balance with the front 
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I have also used the following stitch- on the yoke - see picture of green coat.

Right side  knit 
WS  purl 
RS -*K2 together  knit one* across piece 
WS- K1 Knit in hole bar, across the yoke. (this gives a nice row,)

Repeat these four rows. Then revert back to stocking stitch (see my sweaters)
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* SHOULDERS*

You can make a slanted shoulder or a straight shoulder- whichever you wish. I find the straight across shoulder for the back works for me. If you have sloping shoulders you might want to slant them a couple of rows. (This is where individual sweaters for individual people vary).

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*Make sure you mark down in your notebook what you do  at the end you can also note whether you might want to do it differently  or if you are happy with the shape. *
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Once you reach the neck - you have to decide how many stitches you need for your neck.

I have a handy book which started me designing 

All Sweaters in every gauge - Barbara Goldstein which was published in 1986
I am taking the neck stitches from her book as I want to have a starting point for you. This is the hardest number of stitches for me-_ I always seem to plan too many stitches, but I have learned that I can knit 2 together every so often around the neck for 2 or 3 rows until I get it the right size- It seems to be my achilles heel on these sweaters but I usually end up with it right._
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If you have made a cardigan or a pullover with the same stitch count that you are using and you like the neck  you can use it as an example. Make sure to mark your stitches down in your notebook.

****I make the  PULLOVER  (for future information with a deeper neck (in other words I start decreasing for the neck edge sooner than if I was making a cardigan  this helps keep the neck fairly narrow as it is deeper and therefore will fit over my head. see my wine pullover picture****

I have used this number on each of my sweaters regardless of my gauge . I dont worry if each of my sweaters has a slightly different sized neck. I have a small neck so I usually use the small size for my neck even though my sweater will be large.

+++++Back neck stitches (place on stitch holder)++++++++
these will give you at least a guideline.

Small  p/u 24 stitches p/u ( pick up)
Medium  p/u 27 stitches  
Large -p/u 30 

Bindoff balance of shoulder stitches on each side of your neck remember you will have a drop shoulder-so they will go over the shoulders - (they will be straight up with no shaping for the sleeves .

method - count your number of stitches across the back of your sweater -  subtract the desired number of neck stitches see above chartthen divide the remaining stitches in half to obtain your shoulder stitches..

Knit this number  then pick up the neck stitches on a holder, then knit the same number of shoulder stitches on the other shoulder -cast off - - knit the other shoulder stitches cast off.
You are now ready to start the front yokes. 
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There are two or three ways you can increase the bust line  either add rows to the edge, or  use a larger needle and make your front yoke deeper than the back  - You can also cast on 4 stitches miss one  which will give you more slack. with the reverse stocking stitch I think it will work
note the rev. ss where I picked up the yoke and note the fancy strips -


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## Designer1234

USEFUL INFORMATION

------------- Diagram of sweater A 

Here are 3 diagrams of the parts of Sweater "A" =

It will help you see what you are doing and what each of the parts of the sweater look like. If you have any questions - let me know.


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## drdi

Hi everyone: I've started mine. Here is a photo. It's rolling so you can't see the start. My yokes and sleeves will be black. I cast on 56 stitches on size 9 needles. My gauge is 3.3 st per in.


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## Johanna1

I am placing my order for yarn, but I do not know how much to order. I am a size 3X. I want to do the coat of many colors and will be using both a solid color for the sleeves and yoke and a varigated for the stripes. Can you give me an estimate of how many yards or oz. it will take of a DK. yarn. I would surely appreciate it.


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## Designer1234

I am sorry - I would not know how much yarn you would need. why don't you check on u tube or google 

I am sure there is a way to figure out -- even go to a yarn store and they might be able to help you. You could also look up a pattern using the yarn size you want -- and check the pattern in your size - at least that would give you some idea. 

designer


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## Jessica-Jean

Johanna1 said:


> I am sorry about this. I should have told you about my circumstance. I am bedridden and wheelchair bound. I do not get out to go shopping. I order most of my yarn on line. I have not knitted a sweater in years. All I mostly knit is lace shawls. Maybe someone else in this class can give me an approximate amount. Maybe a person who is extra large can give me her yardage and I can take it from there
> Thanks for answering my message


Johanna, if you haven't joined Ravelry, now it is time to do so.
I have searched the pattern database and found 49 cardigans, plus fit, female, DK yarn, knit, free, with photos. I suggest you look at the pattern details of the ones you think are closest to what you want to knit, and see what yardages are used/suggested. I can't think of any better way to guesstimate how much yarn to buy.

Hope this helps.

----
Jessica Jean -- thanks so much for this advice -- I was thinking about it in bed last night and NEVER thought of ravelry -- my mind is so full of what I am trying to do here :? Johanna 
I am sorry I never gave you a better answer. Good luck! designer (Shirley)


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## Designer1234

Kelly - it would depend on what the yarn is made of . I would suggest that you use the same type of yarn in all parts of the sweater - to make sure parts don't shrink or shed color while others don't. 

I, personally rarely use l00% wool for my sweaters as I want them to give me lots of wear. I am not sure what Sari is as far as type of yarn. There are so many wonderful yarns out there --

Has anyone else used Sari yarn? Ladies, do any of you know? 
This is where the design element comes in - I am sure lots of people have used different types of yarn for their designs. 



With this one I made it simple and made it with basic acrylic yarn as I knew I was going to teach it and I knew I was going to wear it a lot. I am not suggesting that you should do the same - a lot of you are very knowledgeable about the different yarns and I am hoping some of you might go for something different than mine - but this one is a learning experience so it would have to be up to you. 

-------
Thanks for offering to help Johanna -

(that is what I love about teaching a knitting or quilt group- everyone is so generous with their ideas and help)
designer


----------



## Designer1234

------------- Diagrams are posted 

I just posted the diagrams for sweater "A' - they are on a previous post here - (a few posts back) under "Useful information" - save you having to go to the old KAL for them. They will clarify exactly what we are doing and where we are heading . Designer


----------



## Designer1234

---------------diagram of SWEATER 'B'

Here are some ideas for Sweater B-- you can do it all in one color, with different strips on the 'skirt' or vary colors, it is endless - this will get your imagination stirring (I hope). Designer


----------



## Designer1234

============ANSWER

If others are feeling this way-- please let me know -- if you feel the information is useful please let me know.

I have just read the information again and cut back a lot of 
stuff that might not be necessary- IF ANY OF YOU ARE EXPERIENCED KNITTERS you will likely know a lot of this but if you are starting and haven't knit a sweater - it is important that it be available.

The diagrams do help a lot - so please try - pm me if you are willing to start and we can take it one step at a time. Shirley


----------



## drdi

IMPORTANT

I am doing sweater #A. One thing that might be clarified are the colored panels (bottom portions of sweater)  We are knitting a panel in rows. THEN we are picking up stitches along the side of the panel and knitting the yoke, then the sleeves. The diagrams help. A traditional sweater starts at the bottom and we knit vertically.


----------



## Designer1234

I cast on 17 inches x 3.5 stitches per inch == -- 59.5 stitches and rounded it out to 60 stitches. I therefore cast on 60 stitches and am knitting the back. I will cast on 60 inches when I knit both the fronts. 
--------------


My circumference is 48 inches including one extra inch. I there fore divide the 48" by 2 -== 24 inches - for the back and a total of 24 inches for both fronts. ( 12" for each front)



Sewn together this will give me 48" around the bottom of my sweater. 

Just take it one step at a time -- Shirley


----------



## Designer1234

WHERE ARE THE DIAGRAMS FOR THE SWEATERS???

The diagram for sweater "A" is on page 2 of this forum

the diagram for Sweater "B" is on Page 3..


----------



## Designer1234

Unie - hang in there -- it is always confusing when you start something you haven't done before -- this IS NOT a difficult process. I am here 90% of the time -- I would not have started this if I hadn't loved to teach and if I didn't want to answer questions and help people. You have no idea how much satisfaction I get when people accomplish these sweaters. I have fine tuned the posts once again .

LADIES: I really would suggest for the first two or three times you drop in, that you quickly read all the previous posts. Once we get going that won't be necessary. I find that people pick up a little bit more each time they read it as they know more about what I am saying. Hang in there my dear.


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## drdi

Hi everyone: I am using Magic Knot. I've used it for awhile and I trust the knot to hold. It's working great on sweater #1.


----------



## Designer1234

noniforever said:


> Your diagrams cleared up somethings for me but I wasn't evern able to understand the stitch & row size. Before I even started I looked at what the gauge on Red Heart was. 17" st., 23 rows. So I did a 4 in. square to see how loose or tight my usual knitting is. It was right on the gauge. So I knitted a 5x5 square but didn't correspond to the other. I honestly felt that if I could have just began maybe would get it. Have worked for 2 days but have just gotten more confused. Did think I figured out the length I would need for bottom but that was all. Other people wouldn't have my problem. It's funny, but I've been knitting (taught by my grandmother) for over 60 years. Thought that this year I would be able to knit a sweater. Your post on Knitting Paradise encouraged me.
> So thanks again for someone like you that helps others.
> 
> Norene


ANSWER -- If you were right on in the 4" swatch I would think you could use that number of stitches per inch -- I just posted a guideline for calculating your stitches so check it out. I think it will be clearer. You WILL be able to do this sweater - just do one thing at a time, and don't worry about what is happening down the line. just knit your backs and fronts as shown below. Shirley


----------



## Designer1234

=====INFORMATION==========
========================================
Okay ladies -- LETS FIGURE OUT OUR cast on stitch numbers together. It isreally simple.
=========================================
(stitches per in) x (number of inches)= number of stitches needed.
-----------------------
If you want the length of your sweater - from under the arm to the bottom of the sweater - please measure it in inches and subtract 2" for the bottom border.

Therefore lets say you want a l7" length -- so you will make your back and fronts l5 inches 
------------------
example:

lets say your swatch came out to 4 stitches per inch using the yarn and needle size you have chosen.

you will then want to cast on  l5(inches) x 4 (stitches per in) which would come to60 stitches.

You will cast on 60 stitches and knit your back in a variety of colors -

You will then cast on 60 stitches each and knit both your fronts separately .
-------------------------------------------------
NOW - we have to figure out HOW LONG YOU HAVE TO KNIT YOUR BACK AND YOUR TWO FRONTS. to fit around your hips when sewn together.

SAY your circumference is  38" AROUND 
-- you add at least l to 2"---- I would suggest that in this case you use 40" as your circumference -

you then knit 20 inches for the back -- and l0" for each of the fronts. 

Sooo you will cast on your  60 stitches and knit for 20 inches -- - back

cast on 60 stitches and knit for l0 inches for each front.

===============
I hope this makes it easier-- don't even think ahead as to what we will do when we finish these three sections (Back and 2 fronts) we will worry about that when we get there.

note - my calculations for my sweater (A) are on page one above the first picture of my work (and new yarn bowl)


----------



## Knitlady999

Found the diagram for A, and It makes the directons clear. Also your posts help to confirm what is suppose to be happening. I'm up and running now. Thanks!


----------



## Designer1234

I think the diagrams make a big difference -- I am glad you are feeling better about it. just follow the last few posts,check out the diagrams and don't worry about any of the other parts of the sweater. 

If you are doing sweater "B" top down -- follow your pattern and it should work out quite well too. Designer


----------



## unie

I think I have it and how did you know my measurement was 38??

I'm started now. I guess it finally sunk in and I wrote it all down in my notebook. 
Thank you again!


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## Designer1234

no problem Unie --- just knit the pieces and let me know when you are ready to start the back yoke (the area above the under arm to the back neck.


----------



## jnwynn

so the measurement is the area that is the largest part around for our hips or waist?


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## drdi

Hi: Here is the link for the magic knot.


----------



## Designer1234

Yes your measurement is the place with the largest circumference around - usually somewhere between the stomach and hips. . As my hips and stomach are bigger than my top -- I have not been putting buttons all the way down the sweater lately - I think I will 
put a nice button or some sort of metal join at the top of my new sweater. Definitely will not have buttons all the way down the front. Shirley (designer)


----------



## drdi

Hi Designer: I'm glad I could help. I've learned so much in the 10 months I've been reading KP. I've been knitting for 48 years and learned more in the last 10 months than I ever knew before. Sharing what we know is the most fun I've had in years.


----------



## flginny

ctknoll25 said:


> Really like your colors, Shirley. May I run this by you to reassure myself before I go any further? I've finished my back bottom at 13" high and 20" across. I measure 38" around and plan my two front bottoms to be 13" high and 10" across. However, the 13" concerns me now when I see that yours is 17". Are you really tall and long-waisted? When I measured I did not jam the tape into my armpit but started from about where the underarm seam would be. The bottom comes just above where my leg begins so I think I'll be okay. Am I missing something?


If this makes you feel any better, ctknoll25, I'm 38" around and planned, originally, for 14" sides. After several rows, I discovered that the sides were already longer than I wanted, even without a bottom border! I had to FROG, already!! Now I'm working on a side eight sitches ( almost two inches) shorter than I started out with.

Virginia


----------



## flginny

QUESTION

Designer1234, I really like the way you have varied the widths of your stripes.......Some of them even jiggle!

I thought I would feel freer in changing colors, but so far I have been most unimaginative, and I can't figure out how you have achieved the variations you have.

Would you talk a little bit more about the way you work the colors and handle the yarns?

Also, if you are not cutting one color when you pick up the next, wouldn't you have holes where the colors meet? Do you use wrap and turn here?

...

!
Virginia


----------



## ctknoll25

Virginia, thanks for the reassurance! I also like the way Shirley's vertical colors vary in width and how they fluctuate - so much more interesting than the variegated yarn I am using - but decided just doing it the basic way is enough of a challenge for me this time. I think I'd like to make another with nicer yarn and more creative color changes once I get through this one. The KAL is even more fun than expected. 

Shirley, thank you again and again for doing this. I believe you when you say you get a lot of enjoyment out of it and I am so glad we aren't too much of a pain for you. Research shows that it takes many repetitions for learning to occur so maybe we're not as "slow" as it sometimes appears. I am halfway up the back yoke but will set it aside and wait for neck instructions. No problem because I will start the front bottoms tomorrow while waiting. Will share pictures as soon as I can get someone to help with that. Must learn that, too, one of these days.


----------



## Designer1234

QUESTION: Would you talk a little bit more about the way you work the colors and handle the yarns?

ANSWER: I would be happy to give you some of my ideas.

First of all I am a person who likes things that are a bit 'wonky' I don't like things that are regimented - (even stripes) things that have to 'match' etc. I did free motion embroidery and rough edged applique wall hangings when I was quilting and I could NOT do traditional quilting where every thing had to match. Therefore I find it hard to explain the way I see things :?

When I started this sweater - I decided that instead of using intarsia (adding colors unevenly for the bottoms of the sweater like in the past), I would try to use more of a 'pattern'

I planned on doing stripes only. I found this very difficult to do so I once again 'went for it' (story of my life)

I definitely suggest that stripes don't match in width -- I like a pattern on some of them and so I did purl rows and then y/o,k2
along the centers of some stripes. I also did a moss stitch on another and 3 x 3stitches on another - others I just did one purl row up the center of a color and others I left plain. No rhyme or reason -- I do think that is one reason why my sweaters are so different. I HATE doing cables and have avoided them like the plague, although I love the look of them - because I have to count rows to get the cables correct.

If you want to try to do what I do -- just start a color and promise yourself you will either do a rib, up the center , or do a small all over pattern -- then,with a new color, do one rib with nothing extra- then one with a strip of purl stitches up the center - and don't have any of your strips the same size -- that is about all I can really tell you.

MAKE SURE YOU don't second guess yourself -- do it and leave it. Don't let yourself worry about it and decide it won't work -- any thing on your strips works--even if they don't seem to go together!!!

I find my 'traditional" students in both knitting and quilts find it extremely hard to do this as they aren't comfortable but I try to convince them to do it anyway. When they do they are ecstatic with the results. 
====
in this sweater I am doing strips - I always change the color at least three stitches before the end of the previous row, as I want the edge to be smooth (we will be attaching the yoke and bottom border to the edges) . I knit two together and then use the new color.

If I was changing colors like my other sweaters (intarsia)I would try the knot that was mentioned above (see the link) it looks like it would be perfect. I might even try it with the sweater I am doing.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
 MAGIC KNOT - SOUNDS GOOD ALSO CALLED THE DOUBLE KNOT

here is the link to a new way (for me) to join your yarn without having to weave in the ends.

Hi: Here is the link for the magic knot.






-------------------------------------------------------------------
Ladies you might also like to check out the THE INVISIBLE BRAIDED JOIN 
The following link shows you how to join two colors together and the information for a one color join is there too. check it out!





http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=394878.0

Basically you split your working yarn in half about 3 or 4 inches, lay your new skein up between the two legs clip together, then snugly braid like you would you hair. braid for at least 2 to 3 inches. Go on with your knitting, you can snip off any little ends. That's it, no ends to weave in! 
With this method, your join is the same weight at your yarn and basically invisible in your finished work.


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## Designer1234

here are pictures of my back section (see above discussion)


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## DanaKay

Ladies you might also like to check out the braided join. I would imagine it is on you tube.

Basically you split your working yarn in half about 3 or 4 inches, lay your new skein up between the two legs clip together, then snugly braid like you would you hair. braid for at least 2 to 3 inches. Go on with your knitting, you can snip off any little ends. That's it, no ends to weave in! 
With this method, your join is the same weight at your yarn and basically invisible in your finished work.

here is the link to join two different colors together and it can also lead you to the link where you join two lengths of the same color.

http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=394878.0


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## DanaKay

Johanna1 said:


> Thanks Jessica Jean. Your suggestion helped. Now I have one more question. If using two different colors, should I buy half and half or more of one yarn or the other


Johanna1, There are so many variables that this is indeed a bit hard to answer. I can give you an example, if that will help you.
I used Patons Classic Wool for a sweater. It has 210 yards per skein. I figure a skein for each sleeve, one for the trim if I am doing the bottom border in the same color of the sleeves and trim. So that is 3 skeins. The rest I get in my main color. I feel more comfortable though getting an extra skein usually. 
I can always use it for a hat or mittens if not needed. I would rather have a bit too much then too little.

This ls based on a basic cardigan sweater in stocking stitch. If you do cables or a design that will take up the yarn then you will have to adjust for that.
You can also guess-ti-mate by percentage. What percentage of the total sweater do you plan to use the second color. 
Important here is to know how much yardage you need for the size sweater you wish to make. Once you know that, it is easy to figure how much you will need of a particular brand/type of yarn.


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## Designer1234

DANA KAY would you mind if I post a picture of your finished sweater here ?- just to show what you did with yours? I want the girls to see what we can do. otherwise I think I can get it from the former KAL. I found it - so I am going to post it - hope that is okay -- have a couple of others too.

Thanks -- I love the pattern you put on the yoke -- check it out ladies. Just shows how you can have a 'really' original sweater.


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## Knitlady999

The invisible braid join looks good, and is on Youtube! I've aready bookmarked it for future projects. 
Knitlady999


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## Designer1234

--------Y O K E I N S T R U C T I O N S ("A" sweater)------

First of all, make sure the bottom portion of your sweater gives you enough slack and fit around the hips. I have basted the three pieces together to make sure they are comfortable and not too tight.

Now make sure you have carefully worked in the yarn ends at both the top and the bottom of your back and fronts or front (in the future, if you want to knit a pullover)

You are now ready to start the yoke.

================================

BACK YOKE

Working on the right side  cast on (* 3 stitches miss 1* -across the back) there are more rows than stitches  so you wont require as many stitches * k 3 skip 1* works well for me , but make sure you end up with a nice flat back - you will do the same on the fronts when you get there.
------------------------ 
Now to decide how deep you want your yoke. This is the most difficult part of the sweater to calculate and how you make your yoke depends on whether you are busty or not. I am definitely not so I have been thinking about this since we started doing this workshop. See bottom of this post for some thoughts on how to achieve a bustier yoke. You will have to make your yoke a bit longer if you are bustier than if you are small breasted -- 
-----------------------

BACK

Do 2 or 4 rows reverse stocking stitch starting with the picked up stitches. ( This gives you a nice base for your yoke and hides any problems with your pick up stitches. ) Now you are ready to knit your yoke. Check out the 
picture of my green cardigan -- you can see how the reverse SS gives a nice looking join for attaching the yoke.

=============================
Decide how deep you want your yoke.. This will depend on your size.

I find that a 8 or 9 wide yoke gives me LOTS of room for a cardigan. For my pullover I used a 7 yoke .

If you are bustier on top you might want to do a l0 yoke as you have to balance with the front 
========================================

I have also used the following stitch- on the yoke - see picture of green coat.

Right side  knit 
WS  purl 
RS -*K2 together  knit one* across piece 
WS- K1 Knit in hole bar, across the yoke. (this gives a nice row,)

Repeat these four rows. Then revert back to stocking stitch (see my sweaters)
--------------------------------------------------
SHOULDERS

You can make a slanted shoulder or a straight shoulder- whichever you wish. I find the straight across shoulder for the back works for me. If you have sloping shoulders you might want to slant them a couple of rows. (This is where individual sweaters for individual people vary).

---------------------------
Make sure you mark down in your notebook what you do  at the end you can also note whether you might want to do it differently  or if you are happy with the shape. 
---------------------------

Once you reach the neck - you have to decide how many stitches you need for your neck.

I have a handy book which started me designing 

All Sweaters in every gauge - Barbara Goldstein which was published in 1986
I am taking the neck stitches from her book as I want to have a starting point for you.
---------------------------------------------------------------
If you have made a cardigan or a pullover with the same stitch count that you are using and you like the neck  you can use it as an example. Make sure to mark your stitches down in your notebook.

****I make the PULLOVER (for future information with a deeper neck (in other words I start decreasing for the neck edge sooner than if I was making a cardigan  this helps keep the neck fairly narrow as it is deeper and therefore will fit over my head. see my wine pullover picture****

I have used this number on each of my sweaters regardless of my gauge . I dont worry if each of my sweaters has a slightly different sized neck. I have a small neck so I usually use the small size for my neck even though my sweater will be large.

+++++Back neck stitches (place on stitch holder)++++++++
these will give you at least a guideline.

Small  p/u 24 stitches p/u ( pick up)
Medium  p/u 27 stitches  
Large -p/u 30 

Bindoff balance of shoulder stitches on each side of your neck remember you will have a drop shoulder-so they will go over the shoulders - (they will be straight up with no shaping for the sleeves .

method - count your number of stitches across the back of your sweater -  subtract the desired number of neck stitches see above chartthen divide the remaining stitches in half to obtain your shoulder stitches..

Knit this number  then pick up the neck stitches on a holder, then knit the same number of shoulder stitches on the other shoulder -cast off - - knit the other shoulder stitches cast off.
You are now ready to start the front yokes. 
------------------------------------------------------------

There are two or three ways you can increase the bust line  either add rows to the edge, or  use a larger needle and make your front yoke deeper than the back  - You can also cast on 4 stitches miss one  which will give you more slack. with the reverse stocking stitch I think it will work
note the rev. ss where I picked up the yoke and note the fancy strips -


----------



## Designer1234

I will post the information for the front yoke within the next 2 or 3 days. I think it is best if we knit our 3 bottom section and add the yoke to the back and once that is finished we will do the front yokes. They are best done once the back neck is done . we will then decide the neck size and decrease for the front necks once we get going on the front yokes. Then the most involved part of the sweater is behind us and we just have to add the sleeves which is not difficult.

We will do one step at a time. If anyone is ready for the front yoke before i put it up - just post and I will do so. I just don't want us to get ahead of ourselves as we should make sure we get the back and neck finished.

I am doing my three bottom pieces before I start my yokes - I have finished my back and am doing the first of two fronts - so should be ready for my yokes tomorrow.


----------



## Designer1234

======== HELPFUL INFORMATON (general)

************************************

As I gather information I am going to post thel links here. If any of you have good links for stitches, or things that would be helpful - please pm me and I will add them to this list. 
========================================
Here are two links which will give you information on body sizes 
they are worth looking at. Both are excellent for giving you average body sizes from toddlers to adults -- very useful.

http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/sizing.html

http://pattern.stringcodes.com/size-std.html
========================================

------- Stitches -

Pattern for the fancy stitch across my yokes you could also use it if you are doing strips on your bottom sections like I am. It is very pretty.

Here is the pattern for the fancy row :

Right side  knit 
WS  purl 
RS -*K2 together yarn over- * across piece 
WS- *K1- Knit in yarn over space *, across the yoke.

Repeat these four rows. Then revert back to stocking stitch (see my sweaters)
========================================
here is a wonderful link giving you a huge variety of stitch instructions by alphabet -- this is really a helpful link!!

http://www.knittingfool.com/

here is another link for another place to get stitches

http://www.knittingonthenet.com/stitches.htm
========================================

====INFORMATION from Dana Kay

Craftsy.com has a free mini course on Short Rows given by Carol Feller. This course is Excellent. It is really worth the time to take this free course. You can take the course as often as you wish or any portion you wish.
There are segments on shoulder and bust line shaping in the course
Especially if interested in shaping different areas of your sweater for good fit.
It is free to join Craftsy, if you are not a member already.-

-------------------------------------------------------------------
here is a link that tells you how to  pick up stitches on the end of the rows. interesting!

http://www.leethal.net/zine/?p=1091
------------------------------------------------------------------
========================================
------------------ JOINING TWO YARNS

#1---MAGIC KNOT -

Here is the link for the magic knot.






-------------------------------------------------------------------
#2--- THE INVISIBLE BRAIDED JOIN 

shows you how to join two colors together and the information for a one color join is there too. check it out!






http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=394878.0

Basically you split your working yarn in half about 3 or 4 inches, lay your new skein up between the two legs clip together, then snugly braid like you would you hair. braid for at least 2 to 3 inches. Go on with your knitting, you can snip off any little ends. That's it, no ends to weave in! 
With this method, your join is the same weight at your yarn and basically invisible in your finished work.

Hewitt's Flat Braid Joining method 

http://priscillascrochet.net/free%20patterns/Afghan%20Edgings%20and%20Joinings/Flat%20Braid%20Square%20Joining%20Method.pdf

========================================


----------



## unie

Oh, I won't give up, Shirley. I'm working on it,but I have arthritis in my fingers and have to rest them often. I taught myself out of a book from Walmart in November of last year,so I'm determined.
I'm so thankful to have found KP and with your kindness in teaching us . I've made hats, scarves, etc. But I want to learn it all. Even tho it hurts my hands,it's good for them.


----------



## Knitlady999

Love the pattern on Dana Kay's yoke. Can I really get this good someday?
Well I've done the bottom. Should I post pictures of it.? You have probably received a lot already. Will wait on your reply. 
Bless you for having this KAL. I'm learning alot, folks are empressed, my husband thinks it's nice (as long as I'm excited about him also), and I'm looking forward to my first self designed sweater. 
Thanks!
Knitlady999



Designer1234 said:


> DANA KAY would you mind if I post a picture of your finished sweater here ?- just to show what you did with yours? I want the girls to see what we can do. otherwise I think I can get it from the former KAL. I found it - so I am going to post it - hope that is okay -- have a couple of others too.
> 
> Thanks -- I love the pattern you put on the yoke -- check it out ladies. Just shows how you can have a 'really' original sweater.


----------



## Designer1234

knit lady -- yes I would like you to post a picture of the bottom of your sweater.

Jessica Jean -- I agree with you - the 'guidelines' don't do much for those who are tall, or very short or who are two sizes. However, I also have learned by teaching that sometimes a guideline helps people who are starting to knit a project like this to give them a starting point.

It is important, doing this sweater, that WE decide what size we make and what we can do to make these sweaters fit us. 
=========================================
It sounds as if some of us are getting there on the bottoms of our 
"A"sweaters -- I got side tracked with company last night so still have another front to do.

 I don't like starting the yokes until all of the bottom portions are done as we want to make sure of the fit of the bottom.

There are instructions for doing the back yoke already posted so go ahead if you are ready with all three done. I know one or two have started adding the yoke to the back which is okay, but it might be better if we finish all three so that we can talk about doing the yokes and necks together, or at least in order for the class. No problem either way.

We will talk about the back neck today as well.


----------



## Designer1234

----- Y O K E ("A" sweater)------

First of all, make sure the bottom portion of your sweater gives you enough slack and fit around the hips. I have basted the three pieces together to make sure they are comfortable and not too tight.

Now make sure you have carefully worked in the yarn ends at both the top and the bottom of your back and fronts or front (in the future, if you want to knit a pullover)

You are now ready to start the yoke.

================================

BACK YOKE

Working on the right side  cast on (* 3 stitches miss 1* -across the back) there are more rows than stitches  so you wont require as many stitches * k 3 skip 1* works well for me , but make sure you end up with a nice flat back - you will do the same on the fronts when you get there.
------------------------ 
Now to decide how deep you want your yoke. This is the most difficult part of the sweater to calculate and how you make your yoke depends on whether you are busty or not. I am definitely not so I have been thinking about this since we started doing this workshop. See bottom of this post for some thoughts on how to achieve a bustier yoke. You will have to make your yoke a bit longer if you are bustier than if you are small breasted -- 
-----------------------

******BACK***********

Do 2 or 4 rows reverse stocking stitch starting with the picked up stitches. ( This gives you a nice base for your yoke and hides any problems with your pick up stitches. ) Now you are ready to knit your yoke. Check out the 
picture of my green cardigan -- you can see how the reverse SS gives a nice looking join for attaching the yoke.

=============================
Decide how deep you want your yoke.. This will depend on your size.

I find that a 8 or 9 wide yoke gives me LOTS of room for a cardigan. For my pullover I used a 7 yoke but for a CARDIGAN you want it roomier and as I am fairly small on top the above works best for me.

If you are bustier on top you might want to do a slightly longer yoke , however Dana Kay has told us where we can find instructions if you need more bust in the front as you have to balance with the front -check out the INFORMATION post above.
========================================

I have also used the following stitch- on the yoke - see picture of green coat.

Right side  knit 
WS  purl 
RS -*K2 together  knit one* across piece 
WS- K1 Knit in hole bar, across the yoke. (this gives a nice row,)

Repeat these four rows. Then revert back to stocking stitch (see my sweaters)
--------------------------------------------------
**********SHOULDERS

You can make a slanted shoulder or a straight shoulder- whichever you wish. I find the straight across shoulder for the back works for me. If you have sloping shoulders you might want to slant them a couple of rows. (This is where individual sweaters for individual people vary). see instructions below

---------------------------
Make sure you mark down in your notebook what you do  at the end you can also note whether you might want to do it differently  or if you are happy with the shape. 
---------------------------

*************BACK NECK*************

Once you reach the neck - you have to decide how many stitches you need for your back neck.

---------------------------------------------------------------
If you have made a cardigan that you are using and you like the neck  you can use it as an example. So check out the cardigans you have and pick out the one you like best as far as the neck is concerned - measure across the back of the neck and use your stitches per inch count to figure out how many stitches to cast on.

If you don't have a cardigan neck that you like - here is a basic neck measurement guide

The following is just a guideline but you are welcome to check it against your stitches per in to see which one is closest to your neck size.  (As I have mentioned previously -my sweaters are large on top but I always do my neck small no matter what kind of sweater I am knitting.

Small  p/u 24 stitches p/u ( pick up)
Medium  p/u 27 stitches  
Large -p/u 30 

+++++++++++

#1Decide on how many neck stitches you need ++++++++

#2 count the number of stitches you have on your needles across the back
#3 subtract # 1 from #2 -- (Neck stitches from total stitches)
#4 divide the larger number of stitches in two - these will be your shoulder stitches.
#5 - knit across one shoulder - put neck stitches on holder. Knit one more row on the first shoulder - cut yarn
#6 - pick up stitches on other shoulder and knit two rows -

---------------------------------------------------------------------
If you have a sloped shoulder you might want to do an extra one or two short rows at the neck side of each shoulder - I don't because my shoulders are pretty straight across.

See the information post - Dana Kay has given you information about short rows)
------------------------------------------------------------------
Bindoff balance of shoulder stitches on each side of your neck remember you will have a drop shoulder-so they will go over the shoulders - (they will be straight up with no shaping for the sleeves . they will therefore be wider than your shoulder measurements. See my green coat.

Your back is now complete --

I have used this number on each of my sweaters regardless of my pattern size as long as I am using the same yarn and needle. I do have a size which remains the same regardless of what sweater I am knitting - I just find out the stitches per inch and calculate my stitches.

.  I have a small neck so I usually use the small size for my neck even though my sweater will be large.

METHOD  - count your number of stitches across the back of your sweater -  subtract the desired number of neck stitches see above chart or whatever numer you have decide on then divide the remaining stitches in half to obtain your shoulder stitches..

Knit this number  then pick up the neck stitches on a holder, then knit the same number of shoulder stitches on the other shoulder -cast off - - knit the other shoulder stitches cast off.
You are now ready to start the front yokes. 
------------------------------------------------------------
NOTE
****I make the  PULLOVER (for future information with a deeper neck (in other words I start decreasing for the neck edge sooner than if I was making a cardigan  this helps keep the neck fairly narrow as it is deeper and therefore will fit over my head. see my wine pullover picture********************
========================================
There are two or three ways you can increase the bust line (see the information thread above) you can either add rows to the edge, or  use a larger needle and make your front yoke deeper than the back  - You can also cast on 4 stitches miss one  which will give you more slack. with the reverse stocking stitch


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## flginny

Someone on KP posted this link to a method of casting on side stitches as you knit the rows--instead of picking up stitches after the work is finished as we will be doing here. Could anyone comment on this? It looks as if it might work for this sweater! Thanks!

http://www.leethal.net/zine/?p=1091

Virginia

I just looked at it and it is very interesting - I will put this link in the information post thanks so much!


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## ctknoll25

"""I won't give up, I won't give up I won't.... allow myself to let this defeat me. My sad story. Got the back (striped) piece done to right dimensions and have half one one front striped piece done just fine. So far, so good. However, I had started the back yoke ahead of time to see how I liked my color choice. I do. BUT, about 5 inches up I noticed it seemed a bit narrow... just 16", not the 20" I have on the bottom. Never expected this because I had cast on one stitch per row to avoid ruffling. (Tried CO 3, skip 1, then CO 4, skip 1, but that didn't work.) That gave me only 55 stitches and at 3.5 st. per inch, of course, 16". Two questions... has anyone else had my problem on the other KAL's? And, more importantly, what do you think of my increasing to 70 st. in order to get 20' width? Shirley, I am reluctant to push "Send" because this seems ridiculous. Pushing aside any pride I might claim to have, I will now send this on. Thanks for your unfailing kindness! Celine"""

I think that possibly when you picked up the stitches you didn't lie it flat to make sure it wasn't too slim on the top or two wide on the top. I found that for my knitting if I picked up 3 rows (3stitches) and missed a row - across the whole back - that it lay flat.

Some of the girls only needed to pick up two and miss one, and others needed to pick up 4 and miss one.

The best way to do it is lie the bottom perfectly flat every 2 or 3 inches and make sure it lies absolutely flat . make sure you don't pull the back -- - I really watch closely as it can make a difference in the appearance of the sweater. you want it to appear as if you have knit the whole piece without a divide -- It also really helps if you do the three rows of ridge between the yoke and bottom-see my green sweater at the join-- you can pick up or reduce the stitches there in the case where it is just a small difference. I hope this helps. It is an important part of the sweater and some people have problems and some don't.

 Remember - there are more rows than stitches so you will have a lot less stitches on your cast on, than the number of rows you are attaching to.

I can't figure out why you will have so many stitches - you are doing something wrong as you should have less stitches than rows. Shirley


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## flginny

Gosh! I feel so far behind! I've only done enough rows for a front! Is everyone but me so far along???

Virginia


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## Designer1234

Don't you worry about it Virginia-- we all work at different speeds-- some of the girls here are working - some are quick knitters and others not so quick. It is fine -- as we can work at our own speed. The information is permanent and I will be around pretty well every day. It doesn't matter how long it takes. 

I don't mind if it take days, or weeks to get to each stage as long as we don't give up. I had hoped to get my bottom finished but have still got just the back done and one front nearly done. Life catches up sometime. That is what is so great about this managed site --- it is here permanently. 

Don't worry - please -- work at your own speed. Shirley


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## Designer1234

----------- FRONT YOKES---------------

Right front:

pick up the stitches along one of the fronts like you did in the back.

knit up 3/4 of the height you want your top section - leaving enough space to decrease for the front neck.

I do mine as follows:

row 1 Decrease 3 stitches on left side of front -- knit across 
row 2 purl 
row 3 knit 
row 4 purl

Decrease 2 stitches on left side of front 
repeat row 2 row 3 and row 4

repeat until there are the same number of stitches left on needles as on the back shoulder -- finish shoulder as in the back.

You need to cast off stitches on both front pieces for the neck. 
First of all  lie your fronts down and decide which way you want them to lie on your finished sweater. Place a safety pin on the side you want to decrease so that the two sides meet in the middle  see my drawings 
I usually do them one side at a time and check that they are the same angle for the second side 
Remember you will have the width of the front border as well  so take that into consideration - although it wont be a major problem as you will do your neck band or collar first -

Keep in mind that you want the number of stitches of the front shoulders to be the same number of stitches as the back shoulders . this is very important. 

I therefore check the number of stitches on each shoulder of the back. (you should have this information in your notes (# of shoulder stitches).

LeFT front yoke and neck will be the OPPOSITE OF THE right front yoke.

Once you finish both front yokes and the back yoke you are now ready to sew the shoulders together. 

I like to sew them in the front loops so that there is a pattern in the seam but you can invisibly join them or join them whichever way you wish. YOU DO NOT JOIN UNDER THE ARMS--

my way of joining -- PLACE RIGHT SIDES OF BACK AND ONE FRONT YOKE TOGETHER. pick up and sew together the two outside stitches along the seam. do the same with the other side. check out the green sweater on the front page.

our next step we will learn TO PICK UP THE SLEEVES. AND KNIT THEM.


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## Designer1234

==============SLEEVES===============
VERY IMPORTANT 

It is really really helpful if you mark down the measurements as you knit this sweater so that you will not have to figure it all out again when you want to make another one- I mark down all the stitch numbers and inches throughout the 'building of the sweater--I didn't with my first one and I had to start all over -- I didn't remember how I had made it -- especially if you have an unusual 'different' measurement than usual in order for your sweater to fit well. Please believe me on this -- it is worth the time.

Usually your sleeves are added measuring either at or near the bottom of your yoke, Underarm. If I am making a cardigan, I use 7.5 " height on one side or a total of l5 inches across the top of the sleeves.

YOu can figure out your number of stitches by using your stitch count and multiplying by the inches, or you can measure the length you want from the shoulder to the bottom. For my sweater I am going to do 8" + 8 = l6 inches.

 It is important that you make your sleeves wide enough so that they are comfortable  Nothing is worse than having tight sleeves -- give yourself a bit of room so that they are comfortable.

you can do your sleeves one of two ways.

Pick up the stitches on the back loop of the shoulder - measuring your lenght on each side (front and back) and knitting stocking stitch for the sleeve. OR
using a longer circular needle (knitting back and forth - cast on both 
sleeves at once and knit them side by side.

This is where you have to figure your sleeves out for yourself.

I like a bit of design on my sleeves -- sometimes I put the same pattern on the sleeves that I did on the yoke. On this one, I think I will use the bottom of my sleeve in the colors I used for the bottom. I won't decide this until 
I get there (as usual).
measure your length from the top to the cuff -- (we will put the cuffs on after we have put the sweater together, to make sure we get a good length.

I reduce a stitch every 4 rows on each side of the sleeve for 5 inches and then every 6 rows or whatever works until it is the right length to start your cuffs . sometimes I 
have a 'gather' of the sleeve stitches for the cuff - other times I don't.

It is important, with all these sections that you mark on your notebook under the headings your stitch numbers and # of inches for each of your measurements. If you did the measurements on the list, you will have the length you need from under arm to the cuff - otherwise you will have to get someone to measure your underarm length.

away you go!

======================================
All we have left to do is add a collar (if you want one) the front band and the bottom edging. The last thing we will do are the cuffs for the sleeves as sometimes the sleeves are pulled up when all the other additions are made. If you decide to add a hood you can check u tube or google for 'how to add a hood to to cardigan'

I will post the final instructions tomorrow or Thursday. Shirley


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## rkr

flginny said:


> Someone on KP posted this link to a method of casting on side stitches as you knit the rows--instead of picking up stitches after the work is finished as we will be doing here. Could anyone comment on this? It looks as if it might work for this sweater! Thanks!
> 
> http://www.leethal.net/zine/?p=1091
> 
> Virginia
> 
> I just looked at it and it is very interesting - I will put this link in the information post thanks so much!


 Virginia, I LV this info!! TY so very much!! I'd been thinking of how to make the slouchy hats which my college-age GrandDau loves - now I can design to my heart's content and never consult w/her once. They'll be a complete surprise for her at Christmas... THX!!
rkr/Bobbie


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## rkr

You're certainly NOT the slowest one here, Virginia! I wear a removable little brace on a thumb, while waiting for me to schedule joint replacement after the holidays. It aches and I have to rest it if I knit for too long. (With the new cast-on edge technique you just posted I want to try that now,too!!! LOL)
I bet I'm farther back than you! Plus I'm slowly plugging away on knee socks at 6.5 sts per inch on #3 needles.....
rkr/Bobbie


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## Designer1234

HI EVERYONE! --TOP DOWN CARDIGAN

I haven't heard much from those who are knitting the top down cardigan!

I am wondering if any of you have started your sweater, and how it is going?

I realize you are following a pattern but if there is any way I can help, don't hesitate to post here and let us know . I would also appreciate it if you would 
let me know if you have started yet.


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## unie

You aren't alone, Virginia.. I 'm just going to get back finished tomorrow and then I have to do the fronts. I'm so slow and have to stop so often.... I've stopped reading the instructions because it makes me depressed. I'm taking Shirley at her word that I can do this right now. I'm just going to work as hard as I can and if it takes me a month ( Heaven forbid!) I'll just still be reading instructions and asking questions. Taking one step at a time. :thumbup:


Unie - I am glad you are 'hanging in there- you are doing a good job and I don't want you to give up. let me know when you get the back and fronts done - it doesn't matter how long it takes -- post here, and I will walk you through adding the yokes. 

I don't know how I can teach it without putting all the info in as 
so many different people are at so many levels - so it is there and if we do the sweaters once step at a time and don't worry about the rest of the posts until we get there - you will end up with a nice sweater.


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## drdi

Hi Designer: I am combining the two sweater options. I am almost finished with the color panel of my sweater and I'm a bit concerned about the yokes. I am going to leave the color panel on the needles, then starting the yoke top down. I think I can match up the width (I knitted my color panel in one piece). I work fulltime and I am going away for the weekend, so I don't know when I will get to the yoke.


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## Knitlady999

I'm almost there, but could you speak about the cast on for the back yoke? In there a specific method you used?
knitlady***********

If you look at the yoke instructions it will tell you how to do it. 

you pick up 3 stitches on the row ends and miss one row end then 3 miss 1 across the back. 

(there are more rows than stitches- if you picked up a stitch at the end of every row it would pucker a lot (ask me how I know)

just lie it flat and make sure that the two sections will lie nice and flat -- do this all the way across then check again that it lies flat. - good luck. It will also give you instructions as to how to add a narrow ribbing between the joins to hide anything that looks sloppy -- works like a charm. check out my green sweater on the front page and you will see what i mean. designer


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## Designer1234

" I am combining the two sweater options."

I have thought of doing that - in fact I was going to do it with the sweater I am working on and then this new forum happened and I didn't want to change in midstream.

I would think that it would be important as to how many stitches you cast on for the neck as that decides the basic size of the 
top (as well as the number of rows) I would think if you do the top down the same general size as your bottom section, you could adjust either the top or the bottom when it comes to joining them. PLEASE let me know how it is going no matter how long from now. I really am interested in doing it that way and maybe between the two of us we can join the two sections without too much trouble. I can't see why it won't work the way you are doing it. 

I think it is a good idea to leave your fronts and back on the needles. Then knit the yoke as per the pattern and then adjust the bottom as you mentioned. It should work. way to go!!!!


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## Designer1234

knitlady

I just did the first and part of the 2nd row of the caston for the yoke, on my back section. I am adding a picture. 

I picked up 3 stitches in the end of 3 rows, missed a row and then picked up the next 3 -- There are more rows than stitches so you have to pick up LESS stitches than the number of rows. Do this across - lay it flat as you pick them up to make sure the back is not puckering (important).

next row do a purl, next row knit and next row purl - that way you will have a nice ridge where you join the two sections -- then change to your stocking stitch. 

I am doing my ridge in purple and will do my yoke in white.

here are two pictures of my join.


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## bmyers3515

Designer1234 - I have finished the back bottom and am starting on the 2 sides. Did you block your pieces before stitching them together? My sections are curling up quite a bit."""

I blocked them,-- but you don't put them together- you keep them separate - you knit the yoke on each section , then join at the shoulders (see the diagram on the Yoke instructions )

I have made them without blocking and they worked out well when they were sewn together, but I wove in my ends and blocked my back and sides on this one-- now I am starting on my back yoke. I just cast on the yoke stitches .

Hope this helps. we would love to see a picture of your bottom sections??? thanks, designer


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## bmyers3515

bmyers3515 said:


> Designer1234 - I have finished the back bottom and am starting on the 2 sides. Did you block your pieces before stitching them together? My sections are curling up quite a bit."""
> 
> I blocked them,-- but you don't put them together- you keep them separate - you knit the yoke on each section , then join at the shoulders (see the diagram on the Yoke instructions )
> 
> I have made them without blocking and they worked out well when they were sewn together, but I wove in my ends and blocked my back and sides on this one-- now I am starting on my back yoke. I just cast on the yoke stitches .
> 
> Hope this helps. we would love to see a picture of your bottom sections??? thanks, designer


Thank you - I read where you basted the bottom pieces together to be sure of fit and wondered if you blocked them first
=================
I haven't in the past but I am with this one -- like them blocked better -- the basting just helps make sure you have enough to nicely fit on your hips.


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## Raybo

Hi

I'm afraid I'm a bit slow in getting started, swamped with work, etc. but I have been doing the "get ready"work, measuring and raiding my stash for yarn. I'll be using a top-down pattern from which I made myself a sweater maaany years ago that worked very well. Of course, my dimensions have changed and the pattern's have not, so new measuring must be done. 

A hint for anybody who has a hard time getting measurements. I have a jacket that fits very well and I'm using it to supplement some measurements. This has worked well for me in the past, so...

Anyway thanks for the information and most of all for the motivation to get this project done in time for cold weather.


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## Designer1234

good idea to use a sweater or light jacket for your measurements -- works well. 

Glad you are going to do it. The top down is by far the easiest to do as far as seams etc and sleeves are concerned. I like the patterns except I have to do a medium top and then do a large sized bottom and it takes some figuring to get them to fit together-- lots of fun though.


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## Designer1234

I have been designing drop sleeve sweaters for years. I taught a class in Arizona when we lived in Mesa for 6 months of every year. here is a picture of one of them. The front and back are both divided into squares and then I embroidered SW figures in the squares. I wore it for years and lost it in a move. I am going to make another one like it one of these days.


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## drdi

Wow. This is beautiful. I would love to create something like this. I can cross stitch, but never tried embroidering on a knitted garment.


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## Designer1234

here are a few more pictures of sweaters that made a few years ago,using exactly the same way of 'building my sweaters just doing different yarns and 
patterns


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## Designer1234

Noni -- I am still finishing my bottoms too -- life gets in the way sometimes -- we ARE NOT IN A RACE -- This is supposed to be fun! 

Some of the girls from the first and second workshop are finishing up their sweaters with us here. 

I would much rather you keep at it and end up with a sweater (which will give you so much satisfaction) than quit early. I am going to be available here and have the forum set on 'watch' so will get any posts and can answer questions. I will hopefully finish the bottoms today or tomorrow. \

Don't let yourself quit because you get discouraged or feel you are falling behind - you are doing your sweater to learn something new and FOR YOU. 

There were about 40 people who said they were started. I haven't heard from about 30 of them - don't know if they are knitting or not -- but it is up to each of them. The information is here for good. 

Ladies 
I just feel if you 'say' you will do it later - if you are anything like me - you rarely do - so if you started I hope you will finish. I promise it will be worthwhile.


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## noniforever

Trust me - I'm having too much fun to stop. Decided to do the entire bottom in one piece & glad I did. Gives me a much better picture on how the yarns are going together. The Magic Knot sure makes things quicker & easier.

When I finish the bottoms will probably be talking to you. But for now it's fun!


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## noniforever

I'm already looking at wool yarn to make another. The catch is that I can't afford what I like. That's the nice thing about this coat of many colors. I already had a bin of small balls of yarn so all I had to get was the solid color. Since my first try all I bought was Red Heart. It's not soft but I know I'll still wear it. Especially during the winter when I 'll probably have a turtle nect to always put under it.===================================
I use Red heart for most of my sweaters *see pic on front page* -- I am on a limited budget and I therefore use Red heart for nearly all my sweaters, as you say, they wear exceptionally well. I found that the yarn softened as I wore it. I have never had any problem using it - especially all my cardigans as I always wear them over something.

However I also have used it for a pullover -- great for skating and winter wear. - I understand that lots of people don't like it - but I find it works extremely well. If you do read the first sweater KAL that was the yarn I used in the class although very few of the students did.


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## Knitlady999

While I was away, continued to work on the back of sweater. Unfortunatly ran out of yarn, and could not find it at LYS. So I decided to knit another one out of a different yarn. Of course I made a swatch, and calculated the Sts per inch. The colors (Black,Beigh,burgandy,purple,blue with Silver&Gold sparkles) are a bit strong, but I think they might work. 
Here are pictures of my work in progress. What do you think?
Knitlady999"""

I think it will be very nice -- what color are you planning for the yoke? you can either do the yoke in the lightest shade , a separate light shade or pick up one of the darker colors -

one thing you could do if you use the lighter color for the yoke or another lighter color, is make 2 row wide stripes of each color or just one color (I like the idea of two rows of each color, side by side)across the yokes to tie in the colors. I did that on one and it turned out great. Designer

====================
I am including a picture of my yoke -- it will be 8" to the neck and then I will put on a holder until I get my yokes done for the fronts- then I will work it out for the shoulders and neck .

I rather like the fancy stitch ==


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## RGlad

Hey there fellow sweater knitters! I'm just dropping in to say that I LOVED learning how to knit a sweater via this KAL last fall, and I can't wait to see what you all create! I thought it was so enjoyable to learn like this in a group setting, and very satisfying to be able to accomplish such a useful, big project as a sweater. Shirley is the best teacher! Since then I have done quite a few sweaters, it's one of my favorite items to knit (right after socks).""""


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## noniforever

what is the fancy stitch called?


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## Designer1234

Right side  knit 
WS  purl 
RS -*K2 together yarn over  * across piece 
WS- K1 Knit in hole bar, across the yoke. (this gives a nice row,) 

Repeat these four rows. Then revert back to stocking stitch (see my sweaters)

I quite like the way it looks. designer


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## Designer1234

it is on the first page of this site -- the green sweater not on my blog.


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## noniforever

Thanks, I didn't recognize it since I couldn't picture it in my head. . I will certainly add it to my sweater. You are such a special person to tackle this project and understanding how many of us haven't done anything like this before. It's good for me , to help stimulate the brain.


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## Designer1234

Thanks Noniforever -- I have been teaching all my life -- not at school but 
art, (watercolor) clay,thread painting, rough edged applique, and on and on and on. I love doing these things and usually do them my own way so it is very 
satisfying for me to know someone else has learned the way I do things.

if you get a chance check out my blog and go back a couple of years.


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## ctknoll25

Well, Shirley, I've finished the three parts of bottom and have the three yoke pieces to the point where I have to figure out the decreases for neck. I know where to get that information but haven't had the time to do the homework. By the way, with my problem of having to ADD stitches to the rows to get the needed width, I did so and they look fine. I still don't know why that was but won't argue with the results. I shared the question with my knitting group who are all more experienced than I and they had no answer either. They agreed it looked good and had the right dimensions, Very, very weird.! I'll post a picture when I can - need help from kids for that. Thank you again for all your advice and encouragement.


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## Designer1234

I will drop by after my swimming exercises tomorrow morning and if you can drop around we can discuss your decreases for your neck in the back and your decreases for the necks in the front. The main thing you have to end up with is the same number of stitches for both the front and back shoulders -- I am out west - so likely won't get on line until about noon EST. I will write out the instructions even if no one else is here, and will be around tomorrow afternoon and for the rest of the week to answer questions and help. 

Then once we have the yokes and necks completed , we will sew the shoulders together and pick up the stitches for the sleeves. (see the drawings). We will then sew the side seams and underarm seams. then we will do the collar if you want one and the front borders on each side --THEN we will do the cuffs -- Last will be the bottom border. 

If you want buttons - buy your buttons soon so that you can make sure you get the right size for your button holes. I am not putting buttons on mine. I am going to have a closing at my neck as I don't wear my cardigans done up all the way. 


designer


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## Designer1234

TOP DOWN SWEATER 


I DON'T USE A ZIPPER on mine -- I put buttons on instead -- (and rarely do them up) . I do like to add a nice collar on this sweater as well. 

we will do the cuffs once we have the rest of the sweater done. 

Any one having problems??? let me know if you need any help.

designer


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## Designer1234

GOOD MORNING LADIES. --Monday, Sept.3/2012

lets decide how many stitches we need for our back neck.

I have given the instructions before, but lets go over them again

measure the back of your neck -- add an inch --- I usually use a smaller size needle and do a swatch -- because I like my necks to fit quite closely. This time I will do the same.

I put in a guideline under 'yokes' which is just a general idea of the stitch numbers -- it will depend on your neck size across the back, and your needle size. IF YOU ARE USING THE SAME NEEDLES AS THE REST OF YOUR SWEATER - YOU ALREADY KNOW THE STITCHES PER INCH.

This is where I adjust my sweater -- I have picked up my back yoke stitches and knit the reverse stocking stitch and started the back yoke. I lowered my needle size by 1 stitch (you don't need to do that - unless you are much smaller on your top- stay with the original size needles throughout.

I have knit my yoke on the size smaller needles so I need to do a swatch to make sure I get the size correct for my fronts and my necks.

my yoke (on the smaller needles is 4 st. per inch) I am going to do a nine inch neck for the back so I will use 36 stitches for my neck back. 9x 4 =36+1 =37 ( I will round it out to 38 stitches) for my back neck size.

I have 94 stitches across the back of my yoke .

94-38 = 56 divided by 2 = 28 stitches on each shoulder, and 38 stitches for the back neck. 

Now you have to decide whether you want your shoulders sloped - I rarely do as this is a drop sleeve so I am not going to add a slope -- I will go straight across the back -- knit 56 - cast off 38 - knit 56 - follow your st.st for two rows on each shoulder - cast off both shoulders. Make sure you mark down how may stitches you have done -- (your front shoulders must have the same number of stitches as the back shoulders)

OR knit 56 hold 38 stitches on a holder - knit 56 

( have done it both ways. If I am going to do a collar I like to hold the stitches on a stitch holder -- avoids a seam at the back)


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## Designer1234

FRONT YOKES

your yokes MUST BE THE SAME HEIGHT AS THE BACK YOKE!

first of all knit up to the place where you want the bottom of your neck. I have done this 3 or 4 different ways. The important thing is that you need the same number of shoulder stitches on each yoke as you have on the back

It will appear that they are a bit narrower than the back but remember we will be adding a l-2" border to the front.

I usually 'wing the front neck' depending on what kind of sweater I am making 'You might want to check out a cardigan pattern for your stitch number for decreasing - or do as I do - figure it out as you go along - depending on how you want to do it. It is important to look at your fronts and decide which side you want for the two fronts (I would NOT have the color your are doing for your border the same as the first front color on your fronts. ) Now PUT A PIN on the tops AT THE FRONT EDGE of both the FRONTS SO YOU WON'T GET THEM MIXED UP. (Ask me how I know this)

I usually also mark where my shoulders start (same number of stitches as the back shoulders). Your front necks will curve to this marker -or you can decrease for the neck curve and then knit straight up to the shoulder (depending on how 'deep' you made your neck. or you can slowly curve to the shoulder marker. ( I usually cast of 3 stitches and then slowly curve to the shoulder stitches) YOu should mark your decreases or eyeball it with the opposite front. Cast off the shoulder stitches which are the same number of stitches as the back shoulder stitches.

as well as the shoulder stitches matching in number. check diagram and you will see how important it is. It is not difficult but you have to keep these measurements in mind. *Just take it one step at a time and don't overthink it*

That is it! you are ready to join the shoulders and start the sleeves!


----------



## Designer1234

-------------------SLEEVES-----------------
YOUR SHOULDERS ARE NOW JOINED so you can lay your whole sweater flat and measure how wide you want your sleeve tops. put a safety pin at each side.
**** Making your sleeves****

Measure the size you want -- count the number of stitches needed to make that width (inches x # of stitches per inch)

Once you have calculated how wide you want your top of sleeve - pick up l/2 the stitches on one side of the shoulder seam and l/2 on the other side. 
Once you have joined the shoulders -- you will measure the distance between the bottom of the two yokes -(lay your sweater flat on a table)
If you are a small person and it is more than 14 inches - you will measure the side with the shoulder seam in the center - and put a pin 7 inches down each side -
Mark it down in your notebook (number of inches and number of stitches you pick up for the sleeves. You want the sleeve to be roomy without it 'drooping'- remember you pick up stitches from the row end , as you did when you picked up from the bottom to the yoke. I do 3 -miss one- 3 miss one.

I usually use the width of the vertical yoke - starting the sleeves under arm where the yoke begins and across the front and back yokes to the back underarm. in my case my yokes are 8".
so my sleeve top will be l6" wide. I will pick up stitches from the edges of the yoke like I did on the body. you can calculate how many stitches you need by multiplying your stitches per in by the number of inches you need.

knit one inch, put a safety pin on one end. next right side slip one decrease one - knit across to the 3rd last stitches, knit 2 together knit last stitch -- knit one to l.5 inches - decrease again Move safety pin (this helps you mark your increases - you want to slowly decrease each side of your sleeve until you are about 5 inches above the beginning of the cuff. See the drawings

- you want to end up with 36 stitches just above where you want your cuff to start. About 4-5 inches above the beginning of the cuff I put the same fancy stitch I do on the yokes (I know you did some on your yokes. then knit until you reach your wrist where your cuff begins and decrease 4 stitches around the circumference - you should have 32 stitches on your needle for your cuff -(if you prefer looser cuffs, add 2 stitches

I put the stitches on a stitch holder until I have sewn the arm and side seams together (just don't sew the 
arms completely together at the cuff - leave about 6 inches.

Then do the other sleeve the same way, sew under arms and sides together, leaving the same amount on the second sleeve. Try it on - and make sure you have your sleeve long enough. or a bit longer than you like.

You will bind off your cuffs as the last thing on making your sweater as it might need more length after you have done the collar or neck edge and front edges and button holes and button. We will do that next. For now just do your sleeves. We will work on the rest of the finishing once you have your sleeves finished except for binding off after you have decided they are the right length. I find that my sleeve length in total averages between l7 - l9 inches . It varies depending on what your gauge is and so each sweater will be done individually.

You don't have to have the top of the sleeves to fit the width of both yokes (front and back) go more by the measurement. It is no problem if some of the yoke sits below the sleeve join. under the arm. You want your sleeve to fit reasonably well, even though it is not tight with this type of sweater.

Once your sleeves are knitted and the cuff stitches are on stitch holders, we will work on the neck band and the bottom band - then finish the sleeves. You are nearly there!

========================================
*PIN FRONT AND BACK SIDE AND UNDERARM SEAMS TOGETHER (OR BASTE THEM)* leaving at least 6 inches above the cuff - they will be done last. then join using whichever join you wish .

For all my joins (shoulders as well as sleeve tops) I lay right sides together and pick up the OUTSIDE STITCHES on each side making sure they don't pucker. This leaves a nice join which shows nicely.


----------



## Designer1234

--------------- COLLAR------------------------

once your sleeves are finished except for the cuffs and your sweater is sewn together- we will now make the collar.

I pick up all the stitches on the front neck pick up the active stitches across the back, and the other front neck stitches on the other front. * you will pick up these stitches from the INSIDE of the coat*

you will now knit 6 rows of garter stitch -*knit every row* (this will fit on the neck.
-----------------------------------------
I like to have a border on my collars so throughout the collar I ad a garter stitch or moss stitch border up each side of 5 stitches. (I would use markers for the edging) 
You want to increase the size of your collar so you will increase the second stitch inside the border as often as you need to for it to lay flat - make sure you do the increases on the inside of the coat so that when it folds over the right side will show.

continue until you have the collar the size you want -- increasing when you need to to help your collar sit flat . this will depend on each person's shoulders and neck size. so try the coat on every once in awhile while you are making your collar.

Don't forget to increase a reasonable number of stitches on your collar so that it is wider at the edge than where it is cast on. 
Finish with 4 rows of stocking stitch - this will give you a border all the way around your collar.

--------------
you can also do your whole collar in garter stitch but still do your increases so it widens

--------------
you can also do a pattern on your collar - I often do the same pattern as I did on my yokes as well as the border.

Good luck!


----------



## Designer1234

WE WILL DO THE REST OF THE FINISHING ONCE WE HAVE OUR COLLARS FINISHED. The front bands the bottom band and lastly once we have tried the sweater on -- the cuffs.

then you add your buttons if you are going to use buttons ( I am only putting a closure on the yoke area - possibly 3 buttons - not sure until I am there.

I will do another post about the bands if anyone needs the information. * I usually do a wide border in stocking stitch or moss stitch at the bottom of the sweater*. I like it about 1.5 - 2" at least. I have also done my bands and bottom border in crochet. it is up to you. Remember - smaller needles for the bands -- Most of you have put front bands on your sweaters but if you haven't - let me know and I will post some information.

For the cuffs we will pick up 36 stitches and knit 2 purl 2 until we have the right length.


----------



## Designer1234

---* PLEASE POST IF YOU NEED HELP* - and I will help you with the finishing


----------



## Knitlady999

Would you please talk about the amount of rows needed on the Back yoke?
Knitlady999


----------



## Designer1234

you don't go by the rows -- you go by the inches needed and you carefully measure them as you are knitting. Mine is 8.5 inches from yoke to shoulder on the back and the fronts. It depends on the size you want it -- but each of the yokes has to be the same length for the yoke and each of the shoulders has to have the same number of stitches. 

Both the back and front yokes have to be the same size. this is where your 
measurements are needed. I am starting to decrease for the neck fronts now and I am just over half way up 4.5" I will decrease in a curve until I have the same number of stitches that I have on the back yoke.

hope this helps. Shirley


----------



## Knitlady999

Have knitted the two rows on each shoulder back, while keeping 42 Sts on a separate holder for neck. 
Question: I'm confused as to what to do now. 
Your last post on going by inches, not rows was very helpful. However, comments about "decreasing for neck front" and "decreasing in a curve" have kinda scared me. 
Please help!
Knitlady999


----------



## Designer1234

Not to worry Knit lady. It sounds as if you are ready 
to do the fronts.

READ JUST ONE SECTION AT A TIME -- between
the red lines. don't get ahead of yourself or you 
will get confused.

*First of all check the diagrams on page 7 or 8 -
showing the backs and fronts -- each set of 
colors has to match in size so that the sweater
can be put together. * (The shoulders, the 
height of the yoke, and the place where you
will fit in the sleeves (in mine the bottom of the
yoke fits under the arm)

you will see the front neck pieces -- and how the
neckline curves -- 
================================
I am not sure whether you have started knitting 
your front yokes but here is what you do.
-------------
To pick out what front you want on each side of
your sweater- (one sometimes is more attractive 
for the front than the other)
*lay your back - wrong side up. then lay your 
two fronts right side up on the back *-- put a 
pin on the top front corner of each front so that 
the two pins meet in the middle for the front 
separation. *Make sure you remember to put
your decreases on the sides where you have the 
pin so that the curves for the neck meet in the front.
* DON'T do them on the same side as one
side will be inside out - see the diagrams. 
Ask me how I know-

*pick up stitches for the front like you did for
the back/ Each front will be half
the number you picked up for the back.

 NOTE: If you are able to
get the same number of stitches (half of your 
back stitches) that is great but if you are short
one or two in order to lay the front flat without
a pucker that will work as we will be putting a
band on the fronts which will make it okay) 
just make sure that each side has exactly
the same number of stitches when you do the
second one -that is why it is important to
write down your stitch number when you do
this sweater.

The most important part is that they lie flat 
and that you have enough stitches to
match the back shoulder stitches plus enough 
extra stitches to shape the front neck.  
-========================================
========================================

example: ( Your numbers willl be
different)

my shoulders were 28 stitches across each 
shoulder and my neck stitches on the holder
are 38 stitches. Yours will be different .

As I have 45 stitches on each yoke -
- I will mark (on the end OPPOSITE the pin 
with a marker at 28 stitches from the edge 
(shoulder) 
and carry the marker up as I knit across the
front, decreasing for the neck on the opposite
side . when I am finished I will have the same
number of shoulder stitches as the back.

About l/2 way up the yoke - (which will be the 
same height as the back yoke) I will start my
decreasing for the neck. you want to make sure 
that when you reach the top that you end up
with only the shoulder stitches.

I have 38 stitches on the neck . each of my
yokes will have approximately 1/2 of that which 
is 19 stitches - so I will decrease l9 stitches up the
front --

Row one of decrease - RS -*cast 
off 4 stitches - knit across * 
Row 2 purl across row.
Row 3 cast off (decrease) 2 stitches, knit across 
Row 4 purl 
Row 5 Cast off (decrease) 2 stitches knit across
Row 6 purl 
after row six I found I decreased just one stitch on 
every uneven row -- but different stitch numbers
require different amounts of cast offs so you will lie 
your yoke down and make sure that you can work
your cast offs so that the stitches on the front portion
(neck portion) end up at the marker when the height
of the yoke is the same as the height of the back 
yoke.
 you can vary the number of decreased stitches
to 2 every row or every other row - if you like that
shape better or if you need more or less rows of
decreases - you just adjust your shape to your
liking and so that you will end up with just the shoulder
stitches.

This works for me but it will depend on your
neck size and the height of your yoke. If you
are an experienced knitter you can work out
your neck curve yourself. You might want to do 
it differently than mine. I usually wing it 
depending on the neck I want and the size of 
my stitches.

You must have 28 stitches (MY NUMBER, not yours)
on each shoulder.
================================================================================[color=]

When you start the other yoke- remember 
you are doing it on the opposite side (mirror image)
so you will do your decreases on the other end of 
the rows. see the diagram. Your decreases will 
be on the PURL rows. you will curve your neck 
decreasing the 
same way you did on the other yoke.

You can eyeball your decreases or if you are not 
experienced - you can keep count - (mark when you 
decrease on the first -- the then do the same 
decreases on the second.

YOu will continue a gradual decrease until you 
reach the neck marker -- lay the piece flat on
the wrong side of the back and check out your 
curve -- 
make sure you MARK down exactly what you 
have done for each row. This will help when you 
make another sweater-- even if it isn't this sweater. 
It is fine if you reach 
the marker before you reach the top of the yoke 
- just knit the shoulder stitches until your yokes 
are the same size. This rarely happens

========================================

If you are having difficulty let me know and we
can figure it out. I am working on my yokes now. 
if you are worrying about the decreases - knit 
both your yokes to the start of your decrease
and put them on holders and we will work it 
out together. Do check out the diagrams . 
and do one step at a time.

.*


----------



## Jessica-Jean

I admit to not having touched my sweater-in-waiting 
since before Christmas. Now that I'm thinking of
returning to it and reading all that's been posted,
I'm having second thoughts.

I do not like seaming. I can do it; I just don't
enjoy the doing. Yes, I can do a three-needle
bind-off at the shoulders, but ...

So, here's what I'm thinking of doing. I have the
bottom done - one long band that goes around 
me. I think I'll take a generic top-down raglan 
cardigan pattern and make it until the underarms
for the body and through to the cuffs for the sleeves. 
Then I'll join it to the bottom using


Priscilla Hewitt's Flat Braid Joining method -

http://priscillascrochet.net/free%20patterns/Afghan%20Edgings%20and%20Joinings/Flat%20Braid%20Square%20Joining%20Method.pdf

in a contrasting colour, probably black. That will 
give it some textural interest, in case I don't 
work any pattern stitch in the top portion. The 
bottom is worked in two wild variegates. I think
the top and sleeves will be neon-orange. Usind
black for the cuffs' ribbing and bottom edge's
ribbing or seed stitch will mean it won't need as
frequent washing as orange would. (Can you tell
I'm all about avoiding anything that smacks of 
real work?)

No shoulder seams in my future! I'll try to find 
a top-down pattern that will allow me to add a 
black collar treatment. I think it was the thought
of having to deal with shoulder and neckline
shaping that put me off it last winter. It's frankly 
more thinking (calculating, ripping, etc.) than I'm
willing to do. I may or may not add black button
bands; I'll think more about _that_ when I get 
there. Maybe I'll just make a black belt for it. 
Who knows?!


----------



## Designer1234

Jessica Jean -- another one of the members 
is doing]
the top of her sweater top down. - I plan on
doing
the next one that way, but the ladies wanted
the
sweater that I use sometimes in my avatar 
and 
that I taught previously.

I remember the beautiful colors in the bottom 
of your sweater and I think it would work into
something really spectacular with a dark top. 
It will be gorgeous. make sure you put a picture 
in here. 

=======================================
LADIES

I know that there is a lot of information -some
of it repeated, but some of the girls who are
doing this sweater are not that experienced --
I am sure lots of it is unnecessary to share in
detail for the more experienced knitters - so
take what you need from the posts.


----------



## Designer1234

It should not surprise anyone that this will be a
bit confusing at times and difficult at other times.
* BUT think how you will feel when you wear 
your one of a kind sweater and how you will feel 
when you finally finish it. *

It is worth the journey - I have seen it happen 
on my sweater class and my landscape quilting
classes, on my water color and stained glass 
classes.

People don't believe they can do it - some give 
up immediately, some give up half way through
because they don't think they can do it -- 
*and SOME
HANG IN THERE AND MASTER IT* .

I am here to help when you have problems
and I don't want you to give up. I am willing 
to spend whatever time is necessary for your
to finish your sweaters - even if it takes a
month. I don't mind explaining it as many
times as needed. I love to teach and I will 
be just as proud of your sweaters as you are!!

A lot of people said they were going to do it 
-- a lot of people didn't, that is not unusual. 
They might have read the first pages which
were overwhelming in a lot of ways, I am sure -
and thought they couldn't -they also might 
not have had the time or the inclination - -

If necessary I will help you through it step by step.

Designer


----------



## Designer1234

"""I'm enjoying it all, even when sometimes my lack
of progress fustrates me. 
Knitlady999""

no new project - can be learned without some
frustration -- when it is done it is worth the 
frustration. You will wear your sweater proudly and
KNOW you DID IT.


----------



## Raybo

Hey Jessica Jean
and Designer1234

I'm glad to know somebody else is doing the top
down thing, for my same reason, ie seams and 
I just don't mesh. Thanks for the link to the 
"flat braid" joining method. It looks pretty simple
done on crochet squares. Does it also work
well on knitted stuff? I'm planning/hoping
to only have to do that one join, top to bottom
piece, but it'll be a looong one!

------------------------------------------------
I think that braid is lovely -- hope to try it too. 
your are welcome. I put the link on the

The information post on page 5  IMPORTANT INFORMATON 
will be 
put on the first page once we finish this workshop -

there is lots of information and a lot of links that 
can be used for many different things. I am 
seriously thinking of posting it on the main forum. I 
especially like the two join links. I have used the magic 
knot on this sweater. Sure wish I knew it when I 
was doing all the intarsia on my other 'Coats of many colors'


----------



## ctknoll25

Shirley, I am moving along pretty well despite 
some tinking back a few times. Just did the
math for the neck and shoulders and feel
pretty good about what I came up with. 
Seeing your numbers for that was reassuring
because I could see that mine , though not 
identical to yours, were proportionate. Despite
some brain damage from all this figuring and
refiguring, it's really quite a lot of fun. I am
putting my neck and shoulder stitches on holders
with the intention to do three needle
bind-off and do the neckband without having to
pick up stitches from a bindoff,

Do you think
I am asking for trouble by doing it that way? 
The pace of your instructions seems just right. 
I like seeing what's coming up yet knowing it
will be there (and you!) when I am ready for
the information. Thanks again.


----------



## Jessica-Jean

Raybo said:


> Hey Jessica Jean
> and Designer1234
> 
> I'm glad to know somebody else is doing the top down thing, for my same reason, ie seams and I just don't mesh. Thanks for the link to the "flat braid" joining method. It looks pretty simple done on crochet squares. Does it also work well on knitted stuff? I'm planning/hoping to only have to do that one join, top to bottom piece, but it'll be a looong one!


So far, I've _only_ used it on knitted squares - 99 squares per afghan x 2 afghans. Worked perfectly. It may help to first work a row of plain single crochets and iron out any differences in numbers to be joined in that step.


----------



## Designer1234

"Do you think
I am asking for trouble by doing it that way? 
The pace of your instructions seems just right. "
------------------------------
I have done it that way and it worked out very
well. I just tried to set forth the most logical
first sweater for all levels of knitters/ 

I am so glad you joined us -- and I am glad you are
enjoying the process. 

I LOVE doing the process - one step at a time and often
don't know what I will do when I come to the 'next step'
and just start it and see what I end up with. 

I did the same thing with my landscape wall hangings. 
(sometimes I started doing a winter scene and ended up
with a summer scene in the rockies) I love to open doors 
for those who like to do 'different things and who are not 
afraid to think out of the box.


----------



## Designer1234

So far, I've _only_ used it on knitted squares - 
99 squares per afghan x 2 afghans. Worked perfectly.
It may help to first work a row of plain single crochets
and iron out any differences in numbers to be joined
in that step.[/quote]

THANKYOU For the information. I love the appearance 
of the braid. I would imagine you would have to use 
the same size crochet hook as your knitted shoulders?

I will think about putting it around the sleeve join as I 
think it will look good there. have to think about that.

I have one yoke finished and am starting to decrease
for the front neck on the other . I have decided to 
block the pieces 
tonight (usually don't bother ) but thought i would
see how 
much of a difference there is to add the sleeves 
and put it 
together. Each one I do differently - but that is
my passion.

:thumbup: :wink: :wink:


----------



## Jessica-Jean

The size hook you use to do the Flat Braid Join depends entirely on you and your tension. As in knitting, swatching - or in this case - trial and error will guide you.
I don't know that I'd use it instead of a shoulder seam, but that's because I'm big, my sweater will be big (i.e. heavy) and I don't know that that join would work well under the constant tension of a full sweater hanging from it. Besides which, I use either a back pack or a shoulder bag; I don't think I'd like such a textured (i.e. somewhat lumpy?) piece bearing the weight of my back pack and impressing itself into my shoulder(s)! It's _never_ light weight. ; )


----------



## Designer1234

I am small at the top and narrow in the shoulders in comparison to the area below the waist so anything I can do to balance it - really helps. I think it might work as it is a drop shoulder so the weight of the sweater won't be on it. Will have to try it out.


----------



## Jessica-Jean

Shirley,
I'm thinking of using Woolworks' The Incredible, Custom-fit Raglan Sweater as my 'pattern'. I requires the measurements and gauge just as yours does, so I can just plug the same numbers into it.

It gives two alternatives for making a cardigan, knitting a steek and cutting afterwards - NOT for me!
Or just not joining at the neck.
I think I'll do a combination of the two. I'll add the stitches suggested for the steek, but I'll work them as the button band.

To make sure my buttonholes match up, I'll just work them on both sides at once. Then I can avoid sewing buttons on; make them in pairs like cufflinks!, but with a larger one (that can't fit through the buttonhole) on the inside.

Can you tell that the temperature's dropped a few degrees? I'm thinking about working on bigger projects again. 

==============
Getting a bit chlly here too. the summer has flown by and I hate the thought of winter.


----------



## donna47304

Designer1234 said:


> A lot of people said they were going to do it
> -- a lot of people didn't, that is not unusual.
> They might have read the first pages which
> were overwhelming in a lot of ways, I am sure -
> and thought they couldn't -they also might
> not have had the time or the inclination - -
> 
> If necessary I will help you through it step by step.
> 
> Designer


Shirley, you have been consistently helpful and clear in your instructions. I have read every post and saved all the relevant information. I'm trying to finish a few projects before beginning the sweater under your directions.

When I finally begin, I will be sure to post a picture as I love seeing the ideas others have.

Thanks again for your thoughtful postings.


----------



## Designer1234

donna47304 said:


> Designer1234 said:
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of people said they were going to do it
> -- a lot of people didn't, that is not unusual.
> They might have read the first pages which
> were overwhelming in a lot of ways, I am sure -
> and thought they couldn't -they also might
> not have had the time or the inclination - -
> 
> If necessary I will help you through it step by step.
> 
> Designer
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you so much -- it is a bit difficult when you are
> not sure how much knowledge the 'student' has
> and as a result you feel you must make sure that
> everything is made very clear - and repeated -at least
> the important things. I do hope you will do your sweater
> and if you do - don't hesitate to ask about any thing that
> is not clear. Even before you start. I really would like to
> see as many people as possible do this as it is a worthwhile
> process - even if it is to show you that you don't have
> to be restricted in how you do things. I love to 'go for it'
> and I find it fun..
> 
> Shirley, you have been consistently helpful and clear in your instructions. I have read every post and saved all the relevant information. I'm trying to finish a few projects before beginning the sweater under your directions.
> 
> When I finally begin, I will be sure to post a picture as I love seeing the ideas others have.
> 
> Thanks again for your thoughtful postings.
Click to expand...


----------



## Designer1234

I just finished my second front. !! I pinned the three pieces to my blocking panels (plastic childrens' play mats) and heavily sprayed them with water. First time I have used the panels- I like them because I can pin into them. really happy,

I measured them so that the shoulders, lengths, yoke lengths etc all match -- I haven't always blocked my sweaters but decided I will from now on.

I will let them alone until tomorrow morning, join the shoulders and start knitting the sleeves. It is looking quite nice if I do say so myself. .my camera needs charging - when it is done I will take a picture of them being blocked.


----------



## Designer1234

flginny said:


> QUESTIONDesigner1234, I live in Florida and I'm short. I love the look of the sweaters and coats in the pictures, but here we rarely need cold weather clothes.
> 
> I'm thinking of the Coat of Many Colors in a Channel type style open cardigan without collar or buttons. Do you think that will work?
> 
> Thanks!
> Virginia


--------------------
Hi Virginia - how is your sweater coming along? Shirley


----------



## Knitlady999

Can you recommend a cardigan pattern for stitch number decreasing on the front neck?
Knitlady999


----------



## Designer1234

I guess you could google a basic cardigan pattern on you tube or wherever.

and follow the neck portion of the pattern. to me it is easer to do it yourself. 

for mine, I cast off 3 stitches - more if you have a bigger number of stitches for your neck -I have an exeptionally small neck for the rest of me. 

2nd row I purled .

3rd row I c/o 3 stitches. 

then I purled 
from then on I cast off one or two stitches at the beginning of the knit rows 
and purled. you can also trace your width of uyoke on a paper - then 
draw your curve the height of the yoke, making sure you leave exactly the same number of stitches on your yoke shoulder as you did on the back. 

THEN - you do the same at the other pin edge - only you cast off on the other side of the 2 nd yoke. you follow the same curve as you did the first time. (what that means is that you will cast off on the purl rows rather than the knit rows - this will give you your mirror image.
---------------------------------------------------


----------



## noniforever

--------I like the idea but what would the trimaround the sweater be. Something that would stabilize around to hold the shape?-------

I am not sure what you mean. ( I am going to add a collar once my sleeves are done). I will then do the edgings down the front -- I often do them in single crochet but they work well knitted. I use one size smaller than the needles i used for the sweater. 

I will do a 2" garter stitch or seed stitch for the bottom border or edging. Once I have done all that- I will put my 3 buttons on the yoke and try it on -- and THEN finish the cuffs. (sometimes the sewing of the seams, the borders etc. take up some of the sleeves) so I always do the sleeve cuffs last. I likely will add a pattern tabout 6 inches above the sleeves to match the border on my yoke -- haven't decided what I will do with the cuffs -- might do them purple to match the join between the bottom and the tops. So much fun deciding!!!!


----------



## Designer1234

unie said:


> Yay!! I finally finished the back and fronts... they fit!!!


YAY!!!! ISN'T THAT A WONDERFUL FEELING??

Now you can sew the shoulders together (not the sides) and cast on for the sleeves. I am at exactly the same place and have just come home from lunch in Banff (beautiful in the mountains) and am going to finish attaching fronts and backs - Then I will work the sleeves. Could you send a picture or post one on this forum?? I would love to see it. I have posted mine

Once I finish I will start a discussion on the sleeves. Basically you will pick up stitches on the back and front yokes to cover the number of inches you want so the sleeves are not too tight but not too loose either. You can go by your stitches per inch - and you will pick up the stitches like you did your yokes.

Talk to you tonight and tomorrow and we will do our sleeves.


----------



## Knitlady999

Just completed my two front yokes and I'm so happy. I would have been lost on the neckline, if it were not for your encouragement. 
After a bite, will attach them to shoulder of back. 
Knitlady999


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## Designer1234

Way to go! That is the hardest part to explain - another place is the collar. I am working on my collar before my sleeves as it seemed I ended up with my collar much too wide - so I picked up stitches along both front necks and the back neck and did 5 rows of garter stitch and decreased 4 across the back, every other row-- it looks good now. I am changing color and am going to start knitting my collar in my variegated yarn. I will let you know how it goes.


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## drdi

Hi everyone: I'm thinking about putting a hood on my sweater. I live in FL, and sweaters are like coats down here. I hood is always a welcome part of any sweater.


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## Designer1234

drdi said:


> Hi everyone: I'm thinking about putting a hood on my sweater. I live in FL, and sweaters are like coats down here. I hood is always a welcome part of any sweater.


*Dana Kay*, one of the ladies on my other workshop *put a hood on hers.* If she is reading this, maybe she could drop by and talk to you about it. If not. I would google 'How do I make a knitted hood for a cardigan sweater - I would think either there or u tube you would have some information. I have never made one with any of my sweaters as it is too cold here - we need hats and scarves.


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## jnwynn

I have to admit, I put my sweater on hold, due to some other commitments, now I'm asking why I didn't choose worsted weight instead of a sport weight. LOL, oh yeah because of the color of the yarn. It's just taking me longer which is fine. But I've also started another one using all those different green yarns worsted weight that I seem to collect. The girls at prayer shawl always just toss me any of the green yarns donated, I guess they know I like the color green. 

Getting back to working on the blue shade of sport weight, it's top on my list now for my knitting projects. This has been a great lesson, even helped me some ideas for a crocheted version. Just needed some idea of how to build it. I generally go with a pattern and then am disappointed it didn't really fit me. So far this has been a great positive experience. Thank you Shirley for once again doing this KAL.

Jane


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## noniforever

I'm almost done with bottom. Had to halt for a couple of days because of sore shoulder that I got from knitting. I had started Christmas things for family & serving the people in rest homes for the church. The reason for this message is that I have been copying your posts knowing I would need in future. But could you number in order the items that need to be done. I'm sure I have the info printed but a guide would help.


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## drdi

Hi everyone: I am finished with yoke--top down. I tried it on as best I could and it looks good. I have live stitches on the needles and want to pick up along the border of the bottom. I knit that in one piece and left it on the needles in case I needed to make it longer. But it appears I may need to rip several rows. Would you suggest I pick up stitches along the top border of the bottom section, then bind off both sets of live stitches to connect top with bottom. I was thinking a row of single crochet along the top border of the bottom section, the slip stitch (crochet) the live stitches from the yoke with the row of single crochet along the bottom border. I would appreciate everyone's thoughts. If I need to rip several inches of knitting from the bottom, would you suggest doing that after I have partially connected the two pieces? Lots of options, but not sure which would work best. The end is in sight. I'm going on a trip tomorrow and would like to finish the borders while I am traveling. Connecting the two pieces is the big obstacle now.


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## Designer1234

is there any way you can leave the stitches on the bottom and put them on the bottom of the sweater, and pick up the other side for the yoke? The reason I am wondering about this is that sometimes once it is done it endsup that you like the longer sweater. 

If not -- I think I would go the route you mention. I have never done the yoke and then the bottom so I am uncomfortable giving you definite advice until I have tried it. 

Jessica Jean hopes to do hers that way. I believe Dana Kay has done one If they don't see this, maybe you could pm them and see whether she has another idea - for hers. that way you can decide what you want to do.

I hope to make one with the top down sometime in the next while and will put in here how I do it. Let us know what you decide to do and let us know how it is going. Shirley


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## drdi

Hi: The stitches are live on the yoke. There is not way to make the sweater longer if I attach the bottom to the yoke. If I want a longer sweater, I would need to keep knitting down on the yoke. I have already knit an inch after taking off the sleeve stitches and casting on under the arm. Perhaps I should knit another inch.

======
Sorry, I misunderstood you. It was just a thought.

I would still make the same suggestions as far as talking about it with the others - but I do think your idea would work very well. 
This is where the 'going for it ' comes in. Why don't you just do it that way you have suggested - it doesn't sound difficult and I think it would work very well. 
------------
you *could* also cast off the yoke stitches and then join the two pieces together -HOWEVER it would be important that you end up with the exact same length on both top and bottom. If you pick up from the live stitches as you suggest, it might be easier to join them together, adjusting your pick up as you go along so that they lie flat. either way it will take a little time but well worth the effort.


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## unie

Designer1234 said:


> Unie - no problem at all. I am just working on mine but it isn't
> going very fast. We took a drive up to Banff in the Canadian rockies today and had lunch and it was such a nice day. I came home and had a nap and now I am just starting to pick up for my sleeves. I meant it when I said I am here for as long as I am needed. Some of the girls are just starting and I will be coming
> in here for as long as there is a question posted. Take your time and do one step at a time. I am so pleased you are doing this.
> 
> I know it is a big project but I also know that anyone who
> REALLY wants to do it can do it.
> Shirley


Thank you for your support, Shirley. I learned to knit from a book and I'm so anxious to learn everything. I never imagined that I would be trying to do a sweater this soon or ever. I'm not sure how it will turn out, but I will finish it. I'm sure that all the new knitters are as thankful as I am to you for sharing your knowledge. I've started my back yoke finally.


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## Raybo

I'm knitting top-down and I've just reach the point of dividing for sleeves. My current idea is to finish the sleeves and then add the bottom just below them. Does this sound reasonable? Another question is about the bottom. I want to knit it concurrently (luv the big word?) with the top and wonder if it makes sense to do it all in one piece from front, around back and then front again? As you can probably tell I'm allergic to seaming.

Thanks everybody for all the helpful hints so far.


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## Designer1234

are you planning on doing it vertically? if not, you will just carry on down the bottom section. however your stripes if you put any in won't be vertical unless you knit them in vertical strips which is possible.

Or do you plan on knitting the bottom like the coat of many colors and then attach it to the yoke like a couple of the girls are going to try to do? 

the easiest way is the first in my opinion. They have already knitted their bottoms and will attach it to the top down yoke. If you haven't done the bottom you can do it the other way.

Shirley


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## Designer1234

noniforever said:


> I'm almost done with bottom. Had to halt for a couple of days because of sore shoulder that I got from knitting. I had started Christmas things for family & serving the people in rest homes for the church. The reason for this message is that I have been copying your posts knowing I would need in future. But could you number in order the items that need to be done. I'm sure I have the info printed but a guide would help.


--------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------ GUIDE FOR MAKING A SWEATER WITHOUT A PATTERN -

using measurements to fit your own body - rather than a pattern

#1 - knit the back bottom , then knit the two front bottoms. making sure that you cast on *exactly the same number of stitches for the back and each front* as that will be the LENGTH of the bottom of the sweater 
-----------------------------------------------------------------
#2 I then pick up stitches along one of the ends of the back (the row end) * I pick up 3 stitches and miss one -- all across the back *-- if this doesn't let it lie perfectly flat -- adjust the number of stitches you will put on the row ends. (the rows are narrower than the stitches so you won't have as many stitches as the rows you are attaching to.
-------------------------------------------------------------------
#3 knit the yoke == adding a fancy pattern for a narrow part of it if you want to. Once it is the length you want (I am small in the top and I made my yoke 9.5 " ( I vary that - if I want a loose fitting coat sweater I might make it up to l0.5" high.) don't just guess. measure from your shoulder to under the arm and add a bit. It will also depend on whether you are busty or heavier on the top -- leave yourselves lots of room for it to be comfortable for your body.

I figure out how many stitches I need for the back of my neck - ( somehow I balled up my calculations this time and it was way too wide.) * Measure the back of your neck in inches, and multiply the number of inches by the 'stitches per inch' *-
that will be the number you will need for the back of your neck.
--------------------------------------------------------------

#4 *-Now count the number of stitches you have on your yoke back -- and subtract the number of neck stitches. * This will leave you with the number of shoulder stitches. You need half of these for each neck so divide the shoulder stitches in half.

cast off that number,* then knit the neck stitches and put them on a holder - then cast off the other shoulder stitches*

Remember to mark all this info in your notebook -( just a thought, you might want to print this and glue it into your notebook under the heading - designing a cardigan)

You are ready to do the yokes.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
#5-cast on stitches for your yoke fronts - mark them in your note book. MAKE SURE THAT EACH FRONT YOKE HAS EXACTLY THE SAME NUMBER OF STITCHES.

knit until you are ready to reduce for the front neck -- check out the instructions (which are in this workshop) *REMEMBER THE YOKES MUST BE MIRROR IMAGE OF EACH OTHER *--
read it carefully. 
------
Once your yokes are exactly the same height and you have exactly the same number of shoulder stitches cast off -- you are ready to sew the shoulders together.

--------------------------------------------------------------------
 SHOULDERS 

#6- *YOU WILL NOW PICK UP YOUR SHOULDER STITCHES, EXACTLY THE WAY YOU PICKED UP YOUR YOKES. * You are picking up the row edges so you must use your pick up 3-miss one- or whatever combinations allows it to lay flat.

I made mine 8.5 inches on each side of the shoulder join- 
8.5 + 8.5 = l7 " across the top of the sleeve.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
#7 - I knit the sleeves in stocking stitch but on one sweater I changed to garter stitch -- you can do whichever you want.

I knit one inch - then I

I cast off one stitch on the knit row -- every 6 rows. (
until it is about half the width you started with but still wider than you want your cuff.

ONCE IT IS 6 " SHORTER THAN YOU WANT YOUR SLEEVES, INCLUDING CUFF - PUT STITCHES ON STITCH HOLDER. You will finish the sleeves at the very end.
\
---------------------------------------------------------
#8 - if you want a collar -- go to youtube or google 'how to make a collar on a basic cardigan -or if you have a pattern check out how it is done/
-----------------------
#9-NOW YOU SEW YOUR SWEATER TOGETHER - UNDER THE ARMS AND DOWN THE SIDES. -- MAKE SURE YOU KEEP THE YOKE SIZES THE SAME ON EACH OF THE FRONTS.

(sometimes you have to adjust it a little bit . It won't look right if you don't make sure the front pieces match.

#10- If you want just a regular neck - make sure that when you try it on it isn't too large (this happens usually) I reduce my needles one or two sizes and cast on the edge for the neck - either a rib or a garter stitch from the front of each neck around the back and to the front of the other yoke neck

*(Make sure it fits over your head if you are making a PULLOVER)* - Cast off the neck edge.

=======================================

I will type out the finishing of the front and bottom edge this evening as I have to go out. I hope this helps.


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## Designer1234

here are a couple of pictures of my sweater in progress.


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## noniforever

Thank you! I really needed a guide. Also, in the picture you sent it that a collar? I wasn't going to make a regular collor but this looks like a mandarin collar & that I would like. Now I have another question. I finished the bottom & would like to block it. How is that done? I can hardly wait to get started again. Wasn't in a great hurry to finish the bottom because I couldn't find a color that was acceptable. Finally found one today.

So, here I go, I'm on my way.


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## Designer1234

I didn't make a collar -- I tried one and didn't care for it so I changed it to just a crew neck with just an edging for the neck. I will also make an edging down the front of both sides. i am going to have one button at the neck and won't put any down the front as I never do them up anyway. I will therefore only have to do one buttonhole at the neck. 

I have some children's play mats that fit together - there are 4 of them and you can use pins in them. I put a sheet over them and then blocked the sweater pieces, making sure that the yokes were all exactly the same height -- the two fronts and back fronts were all the same length. Once everything was pinned I sprayed all the pieces heavily until they were quite wet - then left them overnight -on the floor - it does make them nice and flat. (I have don't my sweaters without blocking in the past, but it is easier to make sure that all the pieces are the right size to put together without having to adjust the length.

I have one sleeve half done and just started the other one. I don't have alot of white yarn left -so I thought I should work them each and decide what if any strips or patterns I want to put on the sleeves. 

Shirley


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## Knitlady999

Could the sleeves be done on circular needles?
Knitlady999


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## Designer1234

I don't see why not --- it would mean you will likely have to sew the sides of the sweater together and pick up the stitches, putting a marker in at the underarm and do your decreases on each side of the marker. Or evenly across the sleeve. 

I thought about doing that -- but I rather like a seam as it seems to give more body and doesn't spiral--but that is just my opinon. Let me know how it works 

-- I would love to see a picture of your work in progress.


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## Johanna1

Hi everyone. Well my yarn finally arrived today and then I could not find my tape measure, so I got my husband to drive me to the store, so that I would not have to wait any longer. Started my back this evening and knitted for one hour and already have 5 inches done. For over 9 months I have been knitting shawls with lace weight yarn and #3 needles, so I can't believe how fast this sweater is going to be knit up.I am doing sweater A and hope to catch up to everyone
Johanna


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## Designer1234

Welcome Johanna!

I am so glad you have joined us -- Don' feel you have to 'catch' up-- just take one step at a time. In fact, I just posted a list of steps and it might be handy for you to copy it -- and use it as a guide for what order to do your sweater in.

There is a lot of information -- and some is repeated - so I would go by the list and then read through until you get the information for that section. 

I will be organizing the information in sections (back- fronts- yokes and neck etc. but can't do that for awhile. Don't hesitate to ask questions and keep in touch! Shirley (designer0


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## noniforever

I found some insulation that goes in walls that is 2" thick & 2'x4'. I bought it awhile ago figuring that I would use it when I knit a sweater. Was on my todo list for next year but your instructions came & I couldn't resist. Am glad I did.


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## Designer1234

Noniforever-- that is a great idea --I sure do like having something large enought that I can block sweaters, and even shawls.


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## nolaj21

I was looking at this top down cardigan and could not find the pattern. Is this for children or adults and can you add pockets to it? If so would you help with adding the pockets?


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## Designer1234

On the first page of this link there is the name of the pattern I use. However, any basic cardigan pattern would do. 

For adding pockets I recommend you youtube or google 
"How do I add pockets to a cardigan sweater? "

there are some excellent videos and instructions there.

I have not put any on my own sweaters but I understand that they arenot difficult to do. Dana Kay, one of the KP ladies had done them and I am sure she would not mind it if you pm'd her.

If you can't find a good answer let me know and I will try to find someone who can help you. 

Shirley


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## Designer1234

Hi eveyone! I have both sleeves half finished- will do another couple of inches on both sleeves and put the stitches on stitch holders. 
Will do them last.

Once I get them on the stitch holders I will do the front band. I have to decide whether I am going to do one button at the neck,or 3down the yoke. I know I am not carrying the buttons down the front bottom. A dear friend of mine gave me some buttons she made for me and I am going to use 3 of them.

It is slowly getting there -- I have not been working on the sweater much today as I set up the Sock workshop and found a great lady to lead the workshop! so that one is under control.

We are starting the Non Felted slippers on Wednesday so things are going well.


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## Johanna1

designer 1234 I have a question. I am worried that I might have made a mistake. I have knitted 21 inches on my back. I will finish at 30" and 15inches for each front. My hips measure 60 inches, but my bust measures 54 inches. Am I making this sweater to large?
Johanna--
------------------
Johanna - you have the same shape as me. (I am l0 or 11 inches smaller around the upper body than around my stomach hips) I have to make the bottom to fit my hips-stomach -- then I pick up the yokes and do them the same --* remember it is a drop down sleeve which is a great sweater for people with our shape*.

I am 48" including an inch increase from my size. - I made my back 24" and each yoke 12" - I decided to add a bit of crochet along each side (see below) as I like them to be quite roomy.

I adjusted the yokes as follows and you might want to do the same. just reduce your needles by one size a couple of inches above the bottom of your 3 yokes.

On the one I am working on now --* I reduced the size of the needles by one size about 2 inches above the bottom of the yoke to see how it would work on me.This made my yoke a bit narrower at the top, but not enough to make a big difference *- I have never done that before and I have always been happy --

* For those who are heavier on top you could INCREASE your needles one size -*

I find with increasing it - do a couple of rows using one needle one size and the other a size larger - then change to the larger needles. This gives a smooth transition so the transition doesn't show.

This will give you 
more room. (If you are really large busted in comparison to your hips you will might have to use short rows at the bust to give you room. ) I have never had to do this for any of the sweaters I have made for larger people though , because of the type of sweater it is.

How you do your top will affect the length of your sleeves so don't knit all of your sleeves until your sweater is sewn together, your buttons are done and YOUR NECK is finished.

then *make sure your sleeves are the right length . I always put on a 2x2 fairly long cuff.* It is easy to get your sleeves too short and on two of mine I ended up doing the cuffs longer as I like them to come right to the top of my hand.

IMPORTANT - NECK-- - when you have the shoulders joined, make sure your neck is not too large. I always seem to find it to large, even though I think I planned it right-so I then 
use 2 sizes smaller needles the neck band and knit around the neck. Tried it on -- it was still too big so I decreased every l0 stitches across the neck which included the back and the two yoke necks and it doesn't show. I then knitted my band and I am really happy with it. Each of you will adjust your own as we are all so different in shape.

I just sewed the side seams and it is looking good. 
-----------
NOTE LADIES; _ On one of my sweaters (3 pieced bottoms) I made my bottom pieces to fit too tight.thought I needed a bit bigger more around my hips._

I crochet an addition to each side of the back and the underarm sides of the fronts.

I wanted it shaped so I started at the underarm spot, single crochet down the side to the bottom, double crochet about 3/4 of the way up and then changed to sc again. I did this twice on each side and the under arms of the front yokes.

It fitted me well around the hips which are bigger than above my waist.

If you are more a regular size - just add double crochets down all the way. It doesn't look bad on the sweater and actually adds to it.

Johanna -- let me know if you need more help.

Remember, these sweaters are not fitted - they are more a coat sweater. I think yours will be okay, Johanna. Try one size smaller needles on all three yokes.

It is important to remember that these are not fitted sweaters - they are more of a straight jacket sweater.


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## unie

Good morning all, 
I had a little slow down on my sweater over the weekend. DH
was under the weather,( he's disabled)so I didn't knit much, then I went too far before starting my decreases,so my front was longer than the back... Have to frog it back . I didn't have my mind on my business and was preoccupied..but I'm starting again as soon as I do my daily work.

Shirley, I have to say Thank you again. I cannot tell you how much I appreciate this KAL. You have thought of everything to tell us and your instructions are so clear. I was really dreading my first sweater,but you have given me confidence that I CAN do this. Now I think I can even do socks!! With some help, of course. LOL

Ps. I plan on using mine as a light jacket and will wear it with pride. Bless you.


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## Designer1234

Unie - you make me feel so good! It is such a nice sweater and you will wear it with pride as it is YOURS -- and there won't be another anywhere like it. 
-------------
We have a wonderful lady who is going to do a BASIC SOCK WORKSHOP (Kal) starting in October so go to the main link for this learning forum and click on the socks.

http://www.knittingparadise.com/s-105-1.html

Do join because if you can make this sweater socks are easy! and she will help you in every way! I avoided doing socks for 50 years! and now I always have a pair on the needles. It is the same as the sweater - jump in and go for it!

By the way, if you get a chance I would love to see a picture of your work in progress. I will be reading the posts everyday and will be here to answer any questions. I know it can be confusing but just take it one step at a time.

Ladies - don't worry about what you have to do down the road -- work on what you are doing now. One step at a time.


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## Designer1234

Hubby just took a picture of my sweater - which has been sewn together, the sleeves started and the neck ribbing finished. I am happy with the fit. It is hard to tell but experience tells me it will be okay - 

Once I get my front borders on and three buttons down the yoke fronts then the the bottom border which will be in garter stitch I think and then I will finish my sleeves. 

What do you ladies think? unusual combination of colors for me. I will be doing the front borders in the variegated yarn - haven't decided on the bottom border, but likely the same. I will also put something on the sleeves or do the cuffs in the same yarn. won't know until I get there.

The picture of the front looks uneven but each front has exactly the same number of stitches so once the border and buttons are done it will match.


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## ctknoll25

Shirley, that is just beautiful. I wish I were as far along as you are. Your colors are so restful and feminine. I have named my sweater "Carnival" and you will understand when I finally post it I have my shoulder seams sewn and have come to where I must do the math for both the neckline and the sleeves. A little intimidated by that but know I can do it (perhaps with a fair amount of ripping out but that's okay.) So much to do.... I'd love to try the slipper KAL.... but my 3 grandkids are wanting me to finish the Harry Potter hoodies I have as WIPs. Actually, the 9 year old's is done, the 7 year old's just about there, but a lot to go on the 5 year old's. Now that it's beginning to feel like fall, I'd best pay attention to those, I think.


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## Designer1234

I'd love to try the slipper KAL.... but my 3 grandkids are wanting me to finish the Harry Potter hoodies 
--------------------------------------------------------------------just do one thing at a time with your sweaters. I just finished adjusting my neck size after two days of figuring it out. if you run into trouble just post and I will try to help you. Shirley


Remember that all these workshops will be here permanently - I have them all on watch and I believe each of the 'teachers' will too, so they can be done later. All the questions and answers included. 

so there is no problem. this topic is not going to go anywhere so you can do them when you finish the hoodies. they are neat slippers.


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## Johanna1

Shirley thanks for your answer and I love your sweater.Now a dumb question. Exactly what is a drop down sleeve.
Johanna


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## Designer1234

It is a sleeve that is not curved into the top of the sweater. On other sleeves, when you knit your top, you decrease on each side, and then make the sleeve to fit it. With the Drop down, which is usually a coat like or casual pullover or cardigan - you knit Straight up from the bottom and when you do your shoulders drop down the top of your arm a bit. The sleeve is knitted directly across the sides and slowly decreased to the cuff-- I will see if I can find my book that has some illustrations. With a shape like mine where my top is 
much smaller than my bottom - it widens the look of my shoulder. 

It doesn't seem to have a negative affect on wider shouldered people as their sleeves just need to be made longer as there is not as much of a 'drop' as for a narrow topped person. It is not fitted and it is therefore more of a casual, coat like sweater. 

hope this answers your question-- I will look for my pictures and post them. 
Shirley


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## Designer1234

Here are 3 different types of sweaters - they show as pullovers but they can be cardigans too.

These are the basic sweater types.

Set - in sleeveswhere the sleeve is shaped to fit into the sides of the sweater  raglan sleeves (what you get when you do most top down sweaters) -sloped sleeve, and drop sleeve which is the easiest and most casual.

Sorry the drawings aren't very well done but it gives you the idea of the 3 main sweater types. It is helpful to know which of these types you are making when you see a pattern.


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## DanaKay

Designer1234 said:


> It is a sleeve that is not curved into the top of the sweater. On other sleeves, when you knit your top, you decrease on each side, and then make the sleeve to fit it. With the Drop down, which is usually a coat like or casual pullover or cardigan - you knit Straight up from the bottom and when you do your shoulders drop down the top of your arm a bit. The sleeve is knitted directly across the sides and slowly decreased to the cuff-- I will see if I can find my book that has some illustrations. With a shape like mine where my top is
> much smaller than my bottom - it widens the look of my shoulder.
> 
> It doesn't seem to have a negative affect on wider shouldered people as their sleeves just need to be made longer as there is not as much of a 'drop' as for a narrow topped person. It is not fitted and it is therefore more of a casual, coat like sweater.
> 
> hope this answers your question-- I will look for my pictures and post them.
> Shirley


Whew! Shirley, glad there was a picture of the lady so I got to look at the shoulder of the sweater! Whew! having heart palpitations! :lol:


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## Designer1234

I should have made it clearer . Glad I found my pictures as it teaches how to do
the sweater - that is where I got the idea, and I have used this method for my own designs ever since. _ Remember, the heavier you are the less the sleeve will drop as the knitted fabric will be taken up by your top _-- it is an excellent pattern for me as it makes me look more balanced. plus it is the easiest as you don't have to fit in sleeves - although top down raglan is very easy and can be done with very little in the way of seams.

*Hi Dana Kay!* -- ladies, Dana Kay is my friend from the other sweater Kal and is sooo knowledgeable. I am going to have to talk to her about teaching some wonderful project for another workshop . -- maybe pockets and hoods on sweaters, or any thing she would like to do. She is a wonderful friend


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## DanaKay

Shirley,
This is a fantastic Kal you are doing!I just pm'ed earlier to knitlady about the pockets. I fly by the seat of my pants, truly and not too good at explaining as you are. I don't know if I can go back and forward the information so you have it or not. 
I do best if I can sit with someone and show them as we go. You are wonderful with the virtual classroom.
I have look over all your KALs and the information forum, WOW Lady, what a job you've done!

=====
HERE IS DANA KAY'S INFORMATION ON POCKETS. 


Knitlady999,
There are different types of pockets. the patch pocket I call them where you would knit a 5 or 6 inch square and sew them on where you want them on your sweater. This of course is the easiest to make. If making the coat of many colors I would then use my solid color yarn to make this type of pocket.
If I were using this type of pocket on the top down, I would probably have to fancy it up some with a lace design of some sort on it or around the edges of the pocket.
I place the bottom of my pockets about 1 to2 inches above the ribbing on the bottom of the sweater.

If you are thinking of an inside pocket, you will have to know where you want to place your pocket. On a cardigan how far from the center opening, remember you will be putting a band on that center also.
Say my sweater length from the under arm to the bottom of my sweater, minus the ribbing border, is 15 inches and I want my pocket to be 6 inches deep, but one inch from the bottom. I knit down 8 inches. On the right side row I knit in as far as I need for my pocket placement, then you can bind off (or knit and place on stitch holder) enough stitches to measure 4 inches, according to your gauge. If you need a larger opening, then use the amount of stitches you need for the size opening you wish.
Continue knitting your row/round, and on your next row, cast on the same amount of stitches you bound off(or have on the holder) on the previous right side row, and continue on with your sweater. You now have your pocket opening in place.

You when you are ready, will need to make your pocket lining. I make with a 4 inch opening, a 6" x 6" square for a lot of room inside and deep. If you wish a smaller inside to your pocket then knit a smaller lining. You should allow a few stitches at least on either side of your opening
I like to not bind off my pocket. I either put the stitches on a holder and let plenty of yarn to sew the lining in before cutting from skein( I usually do this with the first lining if making two pockets), or I attach the lining to the pocket right away. But you can bind off if you wish. It all depends on the look you desire.

To attach: center your lining over your opening, pin in place, lining up with the upper opening edge. When you get to the opening, you can attach through only the back or through both threads if you did the bind off. If you left the stitches on a holder, I knit together or use a crochet hook and crochet them together, put yarn on a needle and sew other three sides of lining in place using the purl bumps on the sweater wrong side only so your seam don't show on the front of your sweater.

If I make my lining ahead of time, I knit the lining to the stitches as I knit my row and on the next row, I bind off the amount of stitches I need for my opening. That way I only need to sew the other three sides to finish. Also you can us a lighter weight yarn for the lining if you wish, of the same color or contrasting color, what ever suits your fancy.

Elizabeth Zimmermann in her "Knitting Workshop" book tells how to do the after thought pocket. This is how I first learned to do anything other then the patch pocket and just played from there figuring different ways to do pockets. I have many knitting books, but EZ's are perhaps the most worth while of them all.

I am not good at explaining the how's of things, so I hope you understand what I am trying to say. If you need ti understand something better, let me know and I will try to help. Also if you save or copy this, could you please see that Shirley gets a copy so she can pass it on to others if they would like.
I don't have it written out anywhere, I just wing what I want to do. If it works great, if not I play until it does.

I use wool yarn mostly or blends. Today they have the superwash wool, which makes it nice when knitting for the youngsters, but also would behave differently if steeking or doing the afterthought pocket for instance. You would have to make sure you secure your cut thread as you would need to do with acrylic yarn.
Hope all this helps some. Did you check out YouTube? I've not looked there.
DanaKay


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## Designer1234

Thank you -- I sometimes repeat myself but I am getting there. It is very frightening for someone who hasn't done this before - but so worthwhile in my opinion. I know the pride I felt when I designed my first sweater - and I hope all the ladies get the same joy from it. 

I just hope all of them hang in there and finish their sweater for the winter. 

Thanks for being such a support to me and my workshops.


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## Designer1234

How are you all doing? I am working on the slipper workshop today - and it is going well.

I managed to get the design on one sleeve done - decided not to do a cuff and it is a 3/4 sleeve- I really like it.

I also have started doing the border down the left front. I am only going to use one button and got it yesterday.

*THINGS TO KNOW WHEN YOU PUT YOUR BORDER DOWN THE TWO FRONTS. *

*I knit my borders in garter stitch* -

Place a marker or a safety pin every 20 stitches as you knit the border . and MARK IT DOWN-- AS WELL. as you need* EXACTLY THE SAME STITCHES ON THE BORDERS FOR EACH FRONT*. If you don't , one side of your sweater will be longer than the other.

It is also essential that you have exactly the same number of stitches on the border from the yoke bottom to the neck on each side or your yoke bottoms won't match - as well the same number of stitches on each side below the yoke. otherwise it will not lay nicely and will be 'wonky'

*IMPORTANT*also remember that the edging FOR THE YOKE will be like picked up the way you attached the yoke to the bottom rows ( knit 3 miss one) and when you do the bottom you will have the same number of stitches as you have knitted along that side -so will pick them all up, making sure that the edging is nice and flat.

IMPORTANT -- use smaller needles for your edging - otherwise it will puff up. I sometimes use 2 sizes smaller so that it will lay flat.

(In case you read this before- I was going to do my borders incrochet but I changed my mind - doing them in garterstitch with a 2 size smaller needle. Iwill do the neck edge in crochet once my borders are finished and my button attached.

I am also going to do the bottom about 2.5"wide in garter stitch but will only go one size smaller needles. I am getting there. 
WE ARE GETTING THERE! we are NOT in a hurry - one step at a time!!


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## Designer1234

HI EVERYONE! how are you all doing? I hope you are not getting weary of the sweater, and are planning on finishing it. I had to lay mine aside for a day or two as I have been setting up a lot of new workshops on this section and it is time consuming. I have the left side of my front edging nearly finished- and still have half of a sleeve and the bottom edging to do - a button to sew on and I am finished.

I know myself so well -- I start of with a bang and keep on until just the end needs to be finished and then I slow down - I am GOING to finish this sweater this next week!!!!* I am, I am , I am , I am*


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## Knitlady999

Knitting a blanket for Mom & Dad, while still working on the sleeve I had trouble with. But I,m OK now. Will post picture when it is finished.
Knitlady999



Designer1234 said:


> Any one stuck?? just post and I will see it today. hang in there all , lets all say
> 
> I AM going to finish this work in progress - it is NOT going into a drawer or a bag --* I AM GOING TO WEAR IT IN OCTOBER!!!!! *


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## Designer1234

here are a couple of pictures -- I decided to have a 3/4 sleeve instead of a cuffed sleeve - also have the button hole edging done and am working on the button side. I am loving the colors (which I rarely wear)


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## Johanna1

I am confused about the neckline in the back. I read the directions but still confused. I am almost finished with the yoke in the back. The way I understand it is that at the shoulder you bind off all shoulder stitches on one side then knit the neck stitches and put it on a holder and then bind off next shoulder. That does not leave an indentation for the neck. Am I understanding this correctly or am I wrong. Your sweater is beautiful
Johanna


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## Designer1234

I think you missed the post that that is what I do for MY neck. I also mentioned that if you have a neck and shouler line that slopes, you can do a couple of short rows on each shouder, on opposite sides. you can also decrease for the back of the neck if you want. I have done all these different ways, and I find the straight across back works for my neck.

if you have every knit a sweater that you like the neck fit- do it the same way.

This is where we do our own thing for our own shape.

I hope this helps.

--------------
the last portion of the sweater is the part where it should be tinked, if necessary for your own body shape.

I always have problems with my neck and have not done two necks the same. 
For some reason I ALWAYS get my neck too large . I have found that if I reduce the size of my needles and even decrease some stitches I can usually work it out.

---------------
HEY YOU GUYS! I AM FINALLY DOING THE BOTTOM BAND! . THEN ALL I HAVE TO DO IS SEW ON A BUTTON!!!!! The end is in sight! I will get hubby to take a picture when it is finished. I figure less than an hour.


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## Johanna1

Shirley Do you the the kitchner stitch for joining the shoulders?
Johanna


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## Designer1234

no I don't but it is a very good way to join the shoulders. I rather like a ridge across the shoulders so I put both sides together and then pick up the back half of each stitch on both sides of the shoulder join . I like the way it looks . I will be putting some pictures on as soon as hubby takes them and I will take one of the shoulders. The kitchener, however, makes a nice join --


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## Designer1234

HERE IS MY SWEATER! I just started pinning it for blocking. It fits well, and I will get a lot of wear out of it. I will get hubby to take a photo tomorrow.

Now to do my other non felted slipper and start my waterfall top
-- busy , busy!


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## Designer1234

here is how the edging looks with the crab stitch (crochet) down the front edges and the bottom border. It finishes the sweater up nicely.


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## donna47304

Designer1234 said:


> here is how the edging looks with the crab stitch (crochet) down the front edges and the bottom border. It finishes the sweater up nicely.


The sweater on your avatar looks really nice; it compliments you and seems to fit well.

Is the crab stitch easy to do . . . with just a general knowledge of crocheting? It does finish the front really well.


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## Designer1234

you just go into the area on the edge and work BACKWARDS sc into each stitch. It is quite a pretty stitch and I use it all the time. extremely simple but very effective. I did the neck first and then added the rest later. Usually I start at the neck back and work all the way around the neck, fronts, bottom, front and other side of the neck. works great. 

Good lucm!


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## ctknoll25

Shirley, that is just lovely! I am nowhere near finished with mine - have the first sleeve just about down to the ribbing and have to say I am way more pleased with the results than I expected. I looked at this as a challenge that would be fun but without high expectations about the end product. I still plan to get help to send a picture when it's done. Will be visiting friends in L.A. in a few days and this sweater is too cumbersome for my carryon, but finishing it will be a priority when I return. Thanks again for your encouragement. Celine


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## Designer1234

Thanks ladies --I love the crab stitch for finishing. I have finished baby sweaters, afghans, sweaters, just about everything. Oh and I have used it on the bottom of hats, on scarves. It is so easy to do and looks so interesting.


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## Jessica-Jean

Designer1234 said:


> Thanks ladies --I love the crab stitch for finishing. I have finished baby sweaters, afghans, sweaters, just about everything. Oh and I have used it on the bottom of hats, on scarves. It is so easy to do *and looks so interesting*.


To me, it seems to say. "This is FINISHED.", because there's no neat way to add more rows/rounds to crab stitch! :-D

For an extra firm edge (on a 34" trampoline cover), I worked one round of crab stitch in the back loops, and another in the front loops.


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## Designer1234

Never thought of doing that -- it would be good for the edging of a bathmat too'

Yes, it finishes project and looks so nice. It made all the difference in my cardigan. People has stopped me, looked at the edging closely and said they thought it was wonderful.


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## Designer1234

How are you coming along with your sweaters? anyone nearly finished? I hope you haven't all 'fallen by the wayside' Remember, I am here if you need any help. I know a couple of you have just started so don't hesitate to ask questions. Designer


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## Knitlady999

Can you talk about variations we can do on the collar. I'm doing mine now, and can see the bright shining light of my completed new coat of many colors.

Knitlady999



Designer1234 said:


> How are you coming along with your sweaters? anyone nearly finished? I hope you haven't all 'fallen by the wayside' Remember, I am here if you need any help. I know a couple of you have just started so don't hesitate to ask questions. Designer


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## Designer1234

Knitlady999 said:


> Can you talk about variations we can do on the collar. I'm doing mine now, and can see the bright shining light of my completed new coat of many colors.
> 
> Knitlady999
> 
> Way to go, Knitlady. I have done different collars on my sweaters but the easiest way is to take a pattern for a cardi that you have, OR youtube or google - how to knit a cardigan collar. I have never done two the same.
> 
> I think you would have a nicely shaped collar by for once following a pattern.
> 
> HOWEVER: BASICALLY I knit a garter stitch band about 3/4" high, making sure that it is not too larger around the neck. I had to knit two together every 8 rows when I got to mine. It is the one part of the sweater, that I never get right at first. I have an extremely narrow neck for the rest of me and it has been the bain of my knitting sweater life.
> 
> Some people have a heavier neck, and this is a place where you really have to be correct with your stitches per inch. I always use at least 2 size smaller needles but my friend who made hers when I did here, didn't need to do that.
> 
> Another good idea is to measure a cardigan that is a nice fit around your neck. I am going to do that next time. I am going to go to a store, find a well fitted cardigan and measure the neck and check out exactly how they did the neck.
> 
> One thing to remember -- you don't want the color change to show on the INSIDE OF YOUR NECK - once you finish your narrow garter stitch rows in the color of your sweater. for a different colored collar - you knit with the RIGHT SIDE, INSIDE THE SWEATER in other words you knit the right side on the wrong side, so that the sweater folds over.
> 
> you will continue to do that throughout your collar.
> 
> I increase along the garter stitch edging - once the new color is added - you will be knitting the collar in stocking stitch - although I usually do 4 rows of garter stitch along each edge and on the outside edge of the collar. this is not essential but it gives it a nice edgeing. You increase in the stocking stitch, and make sure that there are two increases on the first stocking stitch each row.This is where you shape your collar. The only way I do it is by trying it on every few rows to make sure that the increase is large enough to LIE FLAT as it rolls over your neck from the inside of the sweater.
> 
> For the coat of many colors you can mix your collar colors, you can put a design for 5 or 6 rows halfway up the collar. YOu can do the collar in seed stitch, which is quite nice. Remember, if you can crochet you can do an edging in crab stitch around the collar when it is finished.
> 
> Have you don't your front borders? if so you will can do them like my pictures. (collar last) If you are going to do the collar before the front borders you could also take the front borders all the way up to the point of the collar -- depends on how you feel.
> 
> There are different things to do with your collars -- you can have a colored caller on the plain yoke (that is when you have to make sure that when you pick up stitches you do it from the inside. Just have fun with it.
> 
> here are some collars I have done .


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## Designer1234

you might have been able to use the bottom portion, it just would have been more a coat sweater if the back was longer. I did that with my green one -but have gotten a lot of use out of it.

Remember when you are doing the bottom, *you measure just from under the arms to 2" above where you want the bottom of the sweater-that is when you need your stitches per inch --*THEN you knit enough rows to do half your circumference plus about an inch - then you cast of exactly the same number of stitches for the fronts -- and make them half the length of the back , adding l/1 and inch to each front. You will then have a circumference of your sweater with two inches of slack. then when you have done all three you might want to baste them and put them around the circumference of your body to see that it is good.

then remove the basting and add the yokes to each piece. once you get there -- if it is confusing post and I will help you with it. Shirley


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## Designer1234

I have started a top down cardigan -and am posting a picture. I am using patons sport and the stripes are in bernat mosaic. 

It will be a nice lighter sweater for this winter. I am about 3/4 to the bottom of the sleeves and soon will be working on just the bottom. 

I am thinking about making a point in both fronts which will dip down a bit. but haven't decided for sure. Shirley


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## jmai5421

Designer1234 said:


> I have started a top down cardigan -and am posting a picture. I am using patons sport and the stripes are in bernat mosaic.
> 
> It will be a nice lighter sweater for this winter. I am about 3/4 to the bottom of the sleeves and soon will be working on just the bottom.
> 
> I am thinking about making a point in both fronts which will dip down a bit. but haven't decided for sure. Shirley


I love your colors. I am anxious to see the sweater when you are finished.


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## Designer1234

the top downs work very quickly -- I just follow the pattern and increase under the arm . I love the autumn colors with brown. always have. Reminds me of Ontario - we have just gold here, no maple leaves but Ontario and Quebec in the winter is glorious.


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## jmai5421

Designer1234 said:


> the top downs work very quickly -- I just follow the pattern and increase under the arm . I love the autumn colors with brown. always have. Reminds me of Ontario - we have just gold here, no maple leaves but Ontario and Quebec in the winter is glorious.


We are in the middle of all the fall colors. We see them all with our daily walks in the woods. We saw three deer this afternoon. We have lots of maples, birch and aspen plus all the pine.


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## Jessica-Jean

Designer1234 said:


> the top downs work very quickly -- I just follow the pattern and increase under the arm . I love the autumn colors with brown. always have. Reminds me of Ontario - *we have just gold here*, no maple leaves but Ontario and Quebec in the winter is glorious.


How sad! I don't think I could stand to be elsewhere in the fall. The colours are just so much eye-candy!


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## Designer1234

Jessica-Jean said:


> Designer1234 said:
> 
> 
> 
> the top downs work very quickly -- I just follow the pattern and increase under the arm . I love the autumn colors with brown. always have. Reminds me of Ontario - *we have just gold here*, no maple leaves but Ontario and Quebec in the winter is glorious.
> 
> 
> 
> How sad! I don't think I could stand to be elsewhere in the fall. The colours are just so much eye-candy!
Click to expand...

It isn't sad - it is just different - the rockies in the winter with the golden larches are breathtaking -- and so are the foothills, but I did think that the autumn in Ontario and Quebec were hard to beat. I still wouldn't live there -been there done that and the humidity in the summer was it for me. I was married in Barrie Ontario and lived in Toronto when they were putting in the underground - the heat was rising off the sidewalks. I thought I was going to melt. My sister has lived near or in Ottawa for 60 years and still is homesick for the west. although she loves autumn. I don't think there is a part of Canada that isn't beautiful in one way or another.

:thumbup: :thumbup:


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## Designer1234

here are a couple of sweaters I designed and knitted in dish cloth cotton.

I wear them all spring and autumn - they are really comfortable.


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## Knitlady999

Completed the yoke, sleeves, and collar in the same color. I have the cuffs to do now. Have not decided on weather to add buttons yet. 
Almost there!
Knitlady999



Designer1234 said:


> I hope you can Dawn. it is a real sense of satisfaction for those who finish them and for those who don't, they always wish they had!!
> 
> Knit lady, how are you doing with your collar?


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## Jessica-Jean

Designer1234 said:


> here are a couple of sweaters I designed and knitted in dish cloth cotton.
> 
> I wear them all spring and autumn - they are really comfortable.


Dishcloth cotton? Worsted weight COTTON?? I have a LOT of that. I foresee another sweater in my future ... as soon as I get the lead out and finish the Coat of Many Colours!


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## Designer1234

I had so much of it, and decided I would try it. They weigh quite a bit, but they are comfortable and I don't get hot in them. 

One of these days I am going to make a long sleeve from the same stuff. 

I think I am peculiar as my knitting friends thought I was crazy, and now each of them has made one. There is very little stretch sso I used a seed stitch which has a bit of give. It was an interesting idea -liked it well enough that I made 3. 

Shirley


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## jmai5421

Designer1234 said:


> here are a couple of sweaters I designed and knitted in dish cloth cotton.
> 
> I wear them all spring and autumn - they are really comfortable.


I love your pattern. I have a ton of dishcloth cotton. Will you be doing a workshop on your short sleeve dishcloth yarn pattern?
My DH while cleaning up the computer fouond my coat of many colors sweaters in one of his folders(go figure).

*JMAI --- THANKS FOR POSTING YOUR PICTURES OF YOUR TWO SWEATERS. THEY ARE WONDERFUL!*

I am so glad you have enjoyed working with me on these sweaters. I am thinking about moving the others from the first workshops on to here.

--
I am not sure whether the ladies would like the dishcloth yarn for their sweaters as it is quite heavy-- I like it myself though.

I will think about teaching the yellow one - it is just a basic 
short sleeve pullover with a seed stitch top - of a variegated ball of cotton. I will think about it.


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## Knitlady999

I'm sorry for jumping ahead per my last post. Next will work on the front & bottom bands. Lastly the cuffs.

I think this might be the last question. Would you talk about the construction of the bands, specificallly the button holes? Knitlady999

I will do another post about the bands if anyone needs the information. * I usually do a wide border in stocking stitch or moss stitch at the bottom of the sweater*. I like it about 1.5 - 2" at least. I have also done my bands and bottom border in crochet. it is up to you. Remember - smaller needles for the bands -- Most of you have put front bands on your sweaters but if you haven't - let me know and I will post some information.

For the cuffs we will pick up 36 stitches and knit 2 purl 2 until we have the right length.[/quote]

INFORMATIONS

*FRONT AND BOTTOM BANDS*

Start at the neck, with at least one size smaller needles, long enough so that the front can lie flat - as the yoke portion of the band will be picked up on the end of the rows you will use the same method as you did when adding the yoke to the bottom.

*pick up 3 , skip one *until you reach the bottom of the yoke portion, then I think you should* pick up 5 and skip one* as you are adding to the stitches, not the rows. -- (this is where you lay your sweater down flat and make sure that as you cast on the length of the sweater so that it does not bunch anywhere. *COUNT your stitches on the yoke and on the bottom - add them up and WRITE THEM DOWN.* (your other band* has to have the [exact same number or your sweater fronts won't match.*. (I always do the button side first (left side when you are wearing it) knit 5 rows of garter stitch or as many as you want for your front bands.

Right edging -- measure the length of the finished band on the other front -- divide that lenght by the number of buttons you want on your sweater -- I always put a safety pin exactly where I am going to want each button hole.

I knit two or three rows in garter stitch so that the next row is started at the top. knit 3 (or right to one stitch higher than the safety pin). cast of 3 or 4 - (not too many as they always stretch) this will depend on your button size- knit to one stitch above the next pin, and cast off the same number as above. You will do this down the length of the sweater. turn - and knit back up making sure you knit the same number on the edge of the buttonhole as you cast off. knit two more rows on the edge and cast off. NOW lay the sweater flat - lay the buttonhole side on top of the button side. put a safety pin on the button side, THROUGH the buttonhole. do this with all the button holes -- you will then have the pins showing where your button should be attached.

Once you have your buttons attached -button up your sweater and make sure that it lies nice a flat and that the bottom two edges meet.

cast on around the bottom of the sweater -- I usually reduce the needle size by one not two. then do your border.

I did a garter stitch border on my sweater about l.5" deep.

OR if you crochet - you can do all the borders in crochet.

I hope this helps. Shirley (let us see your sweater) model it if possible! can't wait.


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## Designer1234

* THIS WORKSHOP is not taking any new members after Sept. 26-2012*

If you are a 'work in progress'you are welcome to continue on with your sweaters and I will be available to answer questions until the workshop is locked. I will be 
closing the site in November and I hope you will finish yours before that time.

Once I have trimmed down the personal posts, I will be 'locking' these workshop pages so that KP members can do their sweaters from the information here.

If there is enough interest, I will do another workshop at a later date. Designer


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## Designer1234

CONVERSATIONS AND INFORMATION FROM THE OTHER TWO workshops.

As I am going to lock this site permanently and the information will be available for other KP members. I am skimming through the other two workshops that we did for these sweaters looking for snippets of information as well as pictures of finished sweaters. I have found some interesting posts and will put them here.

It is very gratifying that so many people have done these sweaters . I am a bit disappointed that more from this group dropped out as there were over 40 who said they were interested. However the information is here for those who want to finish and hopefully some will, down the road.


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## Designer1234

* S H O W T I M E*

here are some pictures of finished sweaters done on the two previous workshops. Most are my Coats of Many colors, and a couple are of the top down sweaters - one or two pullovers included too. If I have missed anyone, please let me know and I will post it with the group shots here.

As this is going to be a permanent forum so that KP members can read it. I want to show as many projects as possible.These are just a few of the sweaters that are completed. Shirley

ps,* aren't they delicious?????*


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## daleech

Designer1234,
I am so interested in learning on how to design my own sweater without a pattern. At this time I was unable to start one as I am trying to get things done for a craft fair. The sweaters I have seen so far are very impressive and beautiful.Working 10hr days.Leaves me little time do fun things. Like knitting. Please let us know where you leave this thread so we can look up ideas and also will you make yourself availabe if we need any help? I am looking forward to joining the next kal. Thank You,
daleech


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## Designer1234

THIS WORKSHOP (it is not a KAL) will be here permanently - Once I set up the finished workshops I will marked them as 'locked' there is no way we can open a a file with locked workshops -- I just heard from admin with some aswers today. soo, unless I figure out a new way to do them, each workshop when it is finished will show LOCKED ON THE name - 



Shirley (designer)


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## jmai5421

Designer1234 said:


> THIS WORKSHOP (it is not a KAL) will be here permanently - Once I set up the finished workshops I will put them under a separate heading so you can read all the information whenever you want them. Shirley
> 
> If possible, I will help as much as needed, but all the information is here.
> 
> Shirley (designer)


Tlhanks
I will be doing the top down bomber jacket. I brought the pattern with me to the cabin but forgot the yarn. It is at home 6 hours away. We will be going back the middle of October. I will start then or if I have too many workshops going I will do it after Chrsitmas. I love your jackets with the stripes. I am still looking for one color. I have varigated for the sweater and have pulled three colors out for the stripes.


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## Raybo

Hi

I've finished the yoke and sleeves (top-down) now working the color stripes for the bottom. About how wide do you usually make your stripes? I'm thinking about 2 inches the plain ones and 3 inches for the variegated. How does this compare with what you've done? Yours are so beautifully proportioned. Sorry I haven't been able to get a picture yet but will asap.

PS Thank you so much for this workshop. I haven't made myself anything in so long and now you've got me motivated again. Thanks again.


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## Designer1234

Actuallly, I don't usually make them into a pattern -- I vary the widths, but I have seen some beautiful sweaters with the strips in sections that are the same.

Are you going to make your bottom in one piece around the width of your widest part of the body, I have never done a top down with the sideways knitted bottom so let me know how it works out. 

I am very interested as I have thought about doing this, quite often. Actually I am doing a top down now and am wondering whether I want a one color or 2 or thee color. I have a fair amount of color on my yoke. 

I am also considering doing a couple of lace patterns down the front below the yoke. decisions, decisions. keep me informed --


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## donna47304

Designer1234 said:


> Are you going to make your bottom in one piece around the width of your widest part of the body, I have never done a top down with the sideways knitted bottom so let me know how it works out. --


This is what I'm doing . . . top down with a heather brown, then sideways knitted bottom in fall varigated colors.

Still working on the top, but about ready to set it aside and make the bottom part. So far, I'm excited about it.


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## Designer1234

sounds very interesting. have you decided how you are going to measure the number of stitches or are you going to eyeball it and join it once it is laid flat and measured in inches?

It sounds wonderful. I started a top down but my colors are brown background top down - with autumn colored Bernat mosaic for the wide stripes across the top and sleeves. I am nearly ready to carry on with the brown. Still trying to decide what to do with the bottom portion. I think I will leave it in the plane brown, but am trying to decide whether to do a pattern of some sort or just 
do the bottom in garter titch for a change, or same old same old stocking stitch. 

I COULD KNIT THE BOTTOM SIDEWAYS TOO. HMM have to decide pretty quick.

I never know when I start what I am going to end up with. that is what is so much fun about designing your own.


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## jmai5421

donna47304 said:


> Designer1234 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Are you going to make your bottom in one piece around the width of your widest part of the body, I have never done a top down with the sideways knitted bottom so let me know how it works out. --
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I'm doing . . . top down with a heather brown, then sideways knitted bottom in fall varigated colors.
> 
> Still working on the top, but about ready to set it aside and make the bottom part. So far, I'm excited about it.
Click to expand...

Donna please post a picture. I can't invision a top down, I am assuming on a circular and then knit the bottom sideways in a stripe. How are you going to attach it. Did you just bind off the top and then sew the two parts together? I am curious and can hardly wait to see the finished product. There are designers and there are us followers.


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## grammamary

I haven't dropped out--just working on MY--yes Mine!!!--sweater when time affords . Hoping it turns out as well as the green one you did. Great pick up project for snippets of time. Does "locking " mean I should write down directions for top and finishing real soon? I'm still working on the bottom stripes. Thanks, Mary


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## Designer1234

when a forum is 'locked' I believe that no more posts will be accepted on that site. I am not going to lock it for awhile, as I see that there are some of us who are still working on their sweaters. You will still be able to access the site from what I understand - so that the messages can be read, just no conversation. I am going to check with admin exactly what it means but that was my impression when I talked to them. not to worry - the info is still there. I just dont want it to have a whole lot of posts once the workshop is finished. I am not going to do it for awhile.


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## Knitlady999

I think it's wonderful that the "Coat of Many Colors" will be posted permantly, but Does 'locked' mean those of us who are still working on their sweater should hurry up and post pictures?



Designer1234 said:


> when a forum is 'locked' I believe that no more posts will be accepted on that site. I am not going to lock it for awhile, as I see that there are some of us who are still working on their sweaters. You will still be able to access the site from what I understand - so that the messages can be read, just no conversation. I am going to check with admin exactly what it means but that was my impression when I talked to them. not to worry - the info is still there. I just dont want it to have a whole lot of posts once the workshop is finished. I am not going to do it for awhile.


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## Designer1234

yes, because there won't be any more information or posts put on the forum. I am, however going to leave it open for quite some time as I am hoping that a few of you (a lot?) will be able to finish theirs while the workshop is still open. It will be locked before Christmas as there will be new classes starting in January - good ones too!

I have pm'd admin today to find out exactly what i am allowed to do, whether I 
can keep the locked topics together in one 'file' do that current and future file information is separated. we will see what the guidelines of KP are, and I will have to make sure we fit into them. 

It has been an exciting time for me since I opened this new Section and I am so glad that people are becoming more and more interested in taking workshops, reading the information topic which is being added to often, and getting excited about taking future workshops. I am a happy camper!


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## daleech

Thanks for the reply. I like workshop better. For some reason you don't feel like you have a deadline. I very much appreciate yourself and everyone involved doing this for us so we can learn. Also Thank You for putting this thread under seperate heading so us late comers can also learn to make a jacket.
daleech


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## donna47304

jmai5421 said:


> donna47304 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Designer1234 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Are you going to make your bottom in one piece around the width of your widest part of the body, I have never done a top down with the sideways knitted bottom so let me know how it works out. --
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I'm doing . . . top down with a heather brown, then sideways knitted bottom in fall varigated colors.
> 
> Still working on the top, but about ready to set it aside and make the bottom part. So far, I'm excited about it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Donna please post a picture. I can't invision a top down, I am assuming on a circular and then knit the bottom sideways in a stripe. How are you going to attach it. Did you just bind off the top and then sew the two parts together? I am curious and can hardly wait to see the finished product. There are designers and there are us followers.
Click to expand...

I'll put up a picture when I get to the joining part. I'm not sure how I'll do it . . . right now I have live stitches for the top, but won't, of course, for the bottom. I can envision several ways of joining them, including crochet, but until I get the bottom finished, I'm not sure what will work best.

Maybe an applied I-cord would work . . . finish the top with that and then sew the bottom behind the I-cord which would cover the join.

Don't know . . . be back in a few days with a picture and further details.


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## DanaKay

Started my top down pullover last evening. I have the collar and 6" of the yoke made so far. I've no idea how long it will take me to finish because I am making a plus size.

Flying by the seat of my pants as usual, no pattern. I am using the percentage method, so only really needed one measurement. The rest is a little math.

I used my chest measurement as my "Key"(100%). Knowing your gauge is very important using this method.

To learn about the percentages, you can find it in Elizabeth Zimmermann's books. Though there it is for bottom up sweaters, it can be worked out for top down. That's what I did.
Also KnittingFool.com has sweater wheel, percentage calculators and such. Great lot of pattern stitches too.

I am using Paton's classic wool Dark Grey Marle and the solid charcoal wool colorways. The Marle is like a tweed. Size US7/4.5mm needles.

Of course being top down, you get to try on as you go to tweak were needed for the perfect fit for you.

Tools at the ready, go forth and knit on. Begin as if you mean to finish! :thumbup:


----------



## Designer1234

glad you are starting a pullover Dana Kay -- make sure you fill us in as you go along. Ladies, I APOLOGIZE that I haven't been here very much. Life got in the way, but I am back now. Knit lady - how are you doing?did you finish your bands?

How are the rest of you doing?? I have been really busy setting up 8 different classes for the NEW YEAR -- check out the confirmed classes by going to the 
section link - (click on Knitting And Crochet Workshops With Designer1234 ) 9it is also at the bottom of this page beside Knitting Forum. 0 just click on it.

at the top of this page and check out all the workshops that are open and running now. Things are keeping me hopping. I have a lady from NJ who is going to help me run this section as don't want to give up teaching.

So check us out and pass the word!! Shirley


----------



## donna47304

donna47304 said:


> jmai5421 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> donna47304 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Designer1234 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Are you going to make your bottom in one piece around the width of your widest part of the body, I have never done a top down with the sideways knitted bottom so let me know how it works out. --
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I'm doing . . . top down with a heather brown, then sideways knitted bottom in fall varigated colors.
> 
> Still working on the top, but about ready to set it aside and make the bottom part. So far, I'm excited about it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Donna please post a picture. I can't invision a top down, I am assuming on a circular and then knit the bottom sideways in a stripe. How are you going to attach it. Did you just bind off the top and then sew the two parts together? I am curious and can hardly wait to see the finished product. There are designers and there are us followers.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> .
Click to expand...

Well, I've had to rethink my sweater. The varigated didn't look good with the heather brown after I had knit a 10 inch section. So, I'm rejoining the yarn and knitting a plain raglan with some ribbing at the side seams to help with the fit. I'll have to come up with a new color scheme and try this again later.


----------



## Designer1234

Hi everyone! how is everyone doing? I am working on my top down as well as my waterfall class, All the workshops are arranged until next March so that is a big job done. Now I am going to try to spend some time knitting and crocheting.

I am watching for questions and if any of you need any help - just post here and I will be here to help as soon as possible. 

I hope you will finish your sweaters. Shirley


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## Raybo

Hi Shirley

I'm glad you're keeping the thread open because I'm still working on mine. Had a small bump in the road - finished the sleeves on my top-down raglan and ready to make the body rows just below the sleeves, but found that the holder with all the back stitches on it had opened up and dropped them all!!! After some grumbling I managed to retrieve them all, even the ones that had run down a few rows. Thank goodness. 

Anyway I've started the bottom striped section and all seems to be going well. Still thinking about the joining of top and bottom, but guess I have some time to figure that out. 

Anyway thanks for all you are doing for us.


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## Designer1234

I am looking forward to seeing it - I think the fun of doing this type of thing is the 'unknown

Ladies, I am very excited --I made a top down top awhile ago with 
long, pointed fronts and so many people liked it that I started a workshop -

It is SO simple but I was a bit concerned whether they would turn out okay-- I just saw one that one of the girls just finished -- click on the 
linkat the bottom of this page and then on the Waterfall top and check it out. I am really really happy as you just start off with a few stitches - there is no pattern. take a look at it. Happy day for me. Shirley


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## DanaKay

I decided to change up my top down some, as I decided I wanted a bit different fit, also decided on a cardigan instead of pull over. I think I will get way more use from a cardigan. I will probably put pockets in the bottom front.

At this point I am just past the neck shaping. Thought about just knitting in the round and then steeking, as that would be a faster work up, but am just doing back and forth rows.
Glad to that you are keeping this thread open longer.


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## Designer1234

I can keep it open as long as it is still useful. sounds good Dana Kay I am going to take a picture of mine. I did a bright top and so I think I will do the bottom portion quite plain as I am pretty bottom heavy- the brown is sport weight and I am using Bernet mosaic for the stripes as well as dark brown eyelash yarn.

I think it will be a good basic sweater to wear with a lot of different tops and slacks. Shirley


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## DanaKay

I am using a tweedy looking yarn for the top and like you I am using a plain bottom. I will carry the plain yarn up the front bands and for the collar.
Plan to blend the two colors in a simple design a little past the shoulder shaping to ease into the plain color on the bottom and also so I can finish the sleeves off with the plain color without it looking really wonky. Just some alternate striping I am thinking. Maybe random widths, maybe not. 
I was using the yo,k1,yo for the raglan increases, but since I have started over I decided on using the M1L,k1, M1R increases instead. 
Its the process with me, though of course I like having the finished product, but I thought my grandson would have heart when he seen me rip all but 3 skeins of yarn, to start over. 
After he got over the shock and thought about it, he joined in the ripping as I wound to a ball and said, well you know if I was making something and didn't quite like how it looked, I'd rip it and start over too. That little one will be some knitter as time goes on.
We are ready to cast on for the sleeves for his sweater.


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## DanaKay

Shirley, that is so pretty! It will be a beautiful sweater.
Mine is a grey/ natural white twist, that I call the tweedy color and the bottom will be plain grey. Its worsted weight.
Using what I had on hand.
I really like your eye for color.


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## Johanna1

Hi Shirley
Finally stitched my shoulders to the front and back and now I am about to start the sleeves. My yokes are 10 inches and I wonder if I should make my sleeves that wide or should it be about 8 inches?
Johanna


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## Designer1234

It depends on how wide you are around the top of the sleeves. Is it possible to have someone measure it? add about l.5" and divide in half - so you know the number of inches from under arm to shoulder seam. on each side. 

It is one of the measurements you need to have for your sweater. 

hope this helps. Shirley


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## jmai5421

Designer1234 said:


> I can keep it open as long as it is still useful. sounds good Dana Kay I am going to take a picture of mine. I did a bright top and so I think I will do the bottom portion quite plain as I am pretty bottom heavy- the brown is sport weight and I am using Bernet mosaic for the stripes as well as dark brown eyelash yarn.
> 
> I think it will be a good basic sweater to wear with a lot of different tops and slacks. Shirley


love your sweater Shirley. You sure have an eye for color and design. I am anxious to see yours Dana Kay.


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## Knitlady999

Sorry, life got in the way. In addition I'm finishing a charity project with my knit/crochet group. But have not forgotten and will get back to my coat of many colors soon. I'm so excited, have told everyone about the lovely sweater I'm knitting on-line. When done will post pictures.
Knittlady999



Designer1234 said:


> glad you are starting a pullover Dana Kay -- make sure you fill us in as you go along. Ladies, I APOLOGIZE that I haven't been here very much. Life got in the way, but I am back now. Knit lady - how are you doing?did you finish your bands?
> 
> How are the rest of you doing?? I have been really busy setting up 8 different classes for the NEW YEAR -- check out the confirmed classes by going to the
> section link - (click on Knitting And Crochet Workshops With Designer1234 ) 9it is also at the bottom of this page beside Knitting Forum. 0 just click on it.
> 
> at the top of this page and check out all the workshops that are open and running now. Things are keeping me hopping. I have a lady from NJ who is going to help me run this section as don't want to give up teaching.
> 
> So check us out and pass the word!! Shirley


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## DanaKay

love your sweater Shirley. You sure have an eye for color and design. I am anxious to see yours Dana Kay.[/quote]

Going to be a plain generic top down I'm afraid. The yarn don't lend itself to anything fancy. Should be a good addition to a wardrobe though.
Getting on into that busy knitting time for the holidays faster then I am ready for. I am already way behind schedule!


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## Designer1234

knitlady- I hope things are settling down for you. I am looking forward to seeing your sweater as I know you are close to the finish on it. Anything I can do to help you finish it up. I would hate to see you leave it as a wip when you are so close. 

How about the rest of you? are any of you still working on your sweaters? I hope so . It would be so nice to have them for Christmas. I am here to help if anyone needs some help with their sweater. I am doing very well with my brown card - I am working on the second sleeve and will be finishing it up today and then doing the edging for the fronts and neck. then I am done! I just finished a pair of fingerless gloves for a special friend so I am glad to get them done -- they are a bit fidly, but not difficult. 


Any questions, just post as I am on watch. Will drop by tomorrow. Shirley


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## donna47304

DanaKay said:


> Going to be a plain generic top down I'm afraid. The yarn don't lend itself to anything fancy. Should be a good addition to a wardrobe though.


That's what my heather brown one will be . . . one color. Nothing I had seemed to work well with that tone of brownish beige, so it's a plain top down . . .

Not sure how wide I'll make the front bands. Have to finish the second sleeve and then try it on.

I've been working on several other things at the same time so it seems like slow progress.


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## donna47304

I finished my top down cardigan . . . heather brown which didn't blend well enough to make a varigated bottom. I decided to do a five stitch I-cord and put in a zipper. 

I also put in four ribbed stitched down each side to give it a little shapeing but the picture doesn't really show that feature.

It's pretty plain, but I think will be nice for this time of year. I'd still like to make a cardigan with multiple colors on the bottom.


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## Designer1234

I love it - you will get lots of wear out of this sweater. It looks so well done. 

I have always been intimidated by zippers in sweaters-- it is a block in my mind -actually , I convince myself that I don't even do up buttons, so why do I need a zipper? I think this is beautifully made and congratulations!


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## jmai5421

donna47304 said:


> I finished my top down cardigan . . . heather brown which didn't blend well enough to make a varigated bottom. I decided to do a five stitch I-cord and put in a zipper.
> 
> I also put in four ribbed stitched down each side to give it a little shapeing but the picture doesn't really show that feature.
> 
> It's pretty plain, but I think will be nice for this time of year. I'd still like to make a cardigan with multiple colors on the bottom.


Did you do the zipper by hand or by machine? I have one to put in for my grandson. I just finished the sweater and need to sew it together. I thought I would start small before I do my simple top down cartigan. For that one I am still debating to follow the pattern with a zipper or add a band and buttons. Any help/encouragement would be appreciated.
Judy


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## donna47304

jmai5421 said:


> Did you do the zipper by hand or by machine? Judy


I put it in by hand as the I-cord leaves a little ridge which I wanted my stitches to stay in. I didn't know if I could be this exact on the machine.

If I didn't have the I-cord, I might do it by machine, but my zipper is exactly the length needed so I didn't have any room for error and I felt I could control this better by hand. I used a back stitch and it's pretty easy to keep things lined up.

Now here's my confession: I sent for a zipper and had sewn in the first side when I realized I had been sent a non-separating zipper! I kept sewing as I realized even with buttons, I usually slip them over my head rather than take out all the buttons.

I also couldn't find a zipper to match and didn't want to mess with dyeing one so mine's far from perfect but it might encourage me to hold in my stomach so it doesn't show.

I find my buttonholes are always messy so a zipper is easier for me.


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## Raybo

Hi Designer

I'm still working on my top-down sweater. Have the yoke and both sleeves done, working now on the striped bottom It seems to be working well so far. The proof will be when I attach the bottom to the top!?


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## Designer1234

Right but I am sure it will be fine - just keep checking the size and measure, measure so that it is exactly the right size.then you will have no problem. I can hardly wait to see it. Shirley (designer)


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## Jessica-Jean

jmai5421 said:


> Did you do the zipper by hand or by machine? I have one to put in for my grandson. I just finished the sweater and need to sew it together. I thought I would start small before I do my simple top down cartigan. For that one I am still debating to follow the pattern with a zipper or add a band and buttons. Any help/encouragement would be appreciated.
> Judy


I've only done zippers on knits by hand. Even zippers on fabric, I've done more feet of zippers by hand than by machine. I've eye-balled it in the past, but I recently came across a very nice method to work it more evenly: http://splityarn.com/2011/03/27/easiest-knitted-zipper-install-ever.html


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## Designer1234

Thanks Jessica Jean -- Ladies, for those that don't know my friend from Montreal, and if you have been here for any time, you will know that Jessica Jean has the most wonderful links and shares them with KP all the time. i appreciate it that she is helping us find information on these workshops. Thanks and I hope you continue dropping by the workshops as it is a real help to the teachers. I have bookmarked that link and will try a zipper one of these days.


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## jmai5421

Jessica-Jean said:


> jmai5421 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Did you do the zipper by hand or by machine? I have one to put in for my grandson. I just finished the sweater and need to sew it together. I thought I would start small before I do my simple top down cartigan. For that one I am still debating to follow the pattern with a zipper or add a band and buttons. Any help/encouragement would be appreciated.
> Judy
> 
> 
> 
> I've only done zippers on knits by hand. Even zippers on fabric, I've done more feet of zippers by hand than by machine. I've eye-balled it in the past, but I recently came across a very nice method to work it more evenly: http://splityarn.com/2011/03/27/easiest-knitted-zipper-install-ever.html
Click to expand...

Thanks Jessica Jean. I will put my zipper in by hand since this is the first one I have put in a knitted item. Thinks also for the link to the zipper insertation. I have it bookmarked and will refer to it when I finish my top down cartican. At the moment I an trying to reduce the wip's and do some Christmas knitting for the GC.


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## Designer1234

Parade addresses on pictures.

Ladies - please visit the following 'Parades' of our workshop projects. This list includes the sweaters from this and my other workshops .

#1-Non felted slippers closed-- http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-111122-1.html

#2 Stashbuster bags http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-116648-1.html

#3Waterfall tops: http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-117284-1.html

#4 Socks http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-117372-1.html#2237117

#5 sweater workshps -http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-121117-1.html


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## Designer1234

As you likely know, I made 3/4 sleeves on my white coat of many colors (cardigan). I didn't find it very comfortable and didn't really like it so I decided to add a cuff. I have one nearly finished. check out the picture. I like it much better and will find it works better for me in the cold weather, as I sometimes wear these type of sweaters under my coat in the winter.

*I just picked up stitches on the INSIDE of the first cuff, knitted around for an inch and then divided into 48 stitchs and am doing a 2x2 rib in the colored yarn*. Shirley


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## Knitlady999

Thanks Designer, for Having the KAL on the Coat of many colors. Your encouragement was a great help and kept me focus on completion. I learn new things from you and the KP community, as well as enjoyed reading the comments everyday. Please see the pictures of my lastest proud creation.
Knitlady999

DESIGNER HERE!! it is wonderful! great job knit lady. I am so proud of you!! I am going to open a parade of sweaters - we have three finished and a couple more coming so I will open it tomorrow. I am thinking of including the pictures I have from the first two workshops as there were some great sweaters made. I would like to see their sweaters included and will make sure that people are made aware that it was from 3 different workshops. Shirley


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## donna47304

Knitlady999 said:


> Please see the pictures of my lastest proud creation.
> 
> I really like your sweater. The stripes are simple for those of us who can't combine colors with ease and I like the sparkly yarn and collar. Lot of nice features!


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## Designer1234

I just put a lot of our sweaters in a Parade - here is the link.

http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-121117-1.html

If any of you made a sweater with me that isn't there, please email me a picture at [email protected]


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## Designer1234

here is my finished top down brown sweater --which is also something like my waterfall only I did the points differently. I have it blocked and drying right now. Will decide once it is finished whether I will put one button at the neck.

hope you like it. Designer


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## Designer1234

here it is. I rather like it . wore it out this morning for breakfast for my hubby's birthday - quite a few questions about where, how, did I make it . pattern, etc. so it looks as if people liked it. 

I used the waterfall style which is a top down so it was fun. 

Take care everyone


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## Designer1234

Unie finished her sweater - it is in the Parade, and I think it should be here too; so here it is! great job Unie -- you made a lovely sweater.


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## Designer1234

i had on the same color slacks and top so it doesn't show very well. It hangs very nicely and I think would look nice over a beige outfit. the points blocked well -- I am happy with it. I like it since I put on the button at the neck too. Shirley


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## grammamary

I finished my sweater!!!!! I love it, but so does my elderly mom. Guess I'll just have to make another one! Thanks so much for a great workshop . Wish I had the capability to post a picture. I put a separating zipper in mine (MOM"S) .


----------



## Designer1234

Wonderful Grammamary -- I am so happy for you.

I have been asked by 3 or 4 people who started sweaters with us, and who want us to have another workshop -with the idea that they could start one, or finish the one they have started.

I am wondering whether the workshop is too difficult for most people. I know we have had a lot of excellent results. * How about posting and letting me know how you feel about this type of workshop*. As you all know, I rarely follow a pattern and so it is a different concept and can be out of the box for the students.

I am trying to decide whether I should come up with another design and 
or even repeat but do a pullover instead of the cardigan.

I am thinking of possibly designed a sweater (top down) and either doing it as a coat of many colors, or preferably - each of us choosing a lacy pattern, or a crochet shell pattern or some such thing for the bottom half.

I need your thoughts on this. If you have finished your sweaters or if you have not, would you still give me some input? Thanks,

This one will be closed before Christmas, but if I think it can 
be useful, I will teach another. It is very time consuming so I want some input as to whether the class is too difficult or whether there is a legitimate interest in another one.

There have been some great sweaters finished but even more started but not finished - and often without anything posted as to the reasons for giving up. * I need to know the pros and cons of this type of class*.

Designer.


----------



## ctknoll25

I am still working on my sweater and will definitely finish it. In fact, I really like it but have had several factors intervene, some involving knitting, some not. For me, it was not too difficult and I enjoyed the challenges and decision-making involved. I know exactly how I will do the lower band and the button band and just have the ribbing of the second sleeve left to do before getting to the bands. My 3 grandkids, ages 5, 7, and 9, all play hockey and HAD to have hats in their favorite pro team colors, plus I finished another Harry Potter hoody and have the 3rd almost done. Plus doing some hats and matching fingerless gloves for three teenage grandnieces for Christmas. You might say right now I am quite low on my priority list! I think it would be nice if you did the workshop again, and I just might make another one.... and if you do a top down class with more direction, I'd be interested. In any case, I'm not quitting on the first one. Thanks for all your time and attention to this and other workshops,

Celine


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## Designer1234

I am asking my Waterfall top class the same thing and it looks as if there is a good chance we will do another Waterfall in January. I am thinking that I can use the same instructions on a new workshop for those who want to finish their Coats of many colors, and we could spend some time designing a pullover or cardigan with a top down and fancy stitch on the bottom or the other way around.

I am perfectly willing to do this if there is enough interest. I will post in main on the Parade forum and see if there is interest there. Let me know if any of you are interested. Shirley


----------



## Knitlady999

As you know I've finished my sweater, but since you asked here is my input. 
The Coat of Many Colors workshop was challenging and fun. Yes there was not a lot of hand holding, but support and reference to other places for information on a specific subjects. This I very much appreciated. The workshop was great because 1)you put me in the seat of designing a sweater for the first time, where the finished product was uniquely mine 2) I learn some new things, as well as relyed on things I already knew. The latter was good for those times I felt unsure and fustrated 3)Your encouragement postings kept me focus and going on to complete this project 4) Lastly, I proudly wear, and fondly talk about my first on-line sweater everywhere. Am already planning to make another with some sparkley yarn I saw.
Yes please have another workshop on sweaters. They are worn often here. Would love to see some fancy sweaters with decorative details. 
What ever you come up with, will be interesting, and worthwhile.
Again, thanks for all your hard work.

Knitlady999


Designer1234 said:


> Wonderful Grammamary -- I am so happy for you.
> 
> I have been asked by 3 or 4 people who started sweaters with us, and who want us to have another workshop -with the idea that they could start one, or finish the one they have started.
> 
> I am wondering whether the workshop is too difficult for most people. I know we have had a lot of excellent results. * How about posting and letting me know how you feel about this type of workshop*. As you all know, I rarely follow a pattern and so it is a different concept and can be out of the box for the students.
> 
> I am trying to decide whether I should come up with another design and
> or even repeat but do a pullover instead of the cardigan.
> 
> I am thinking of possibly designed a sweater (top down) and either doing it as a coat of many colors, or preferably - each of us choosing a lacy pattern, or a crochet shell pattern or some such thing for the bottom half.
> 
> I need your thoughts on this. If you have finished your sweaters or if you have not, would you still give me some input? Thanks,
> 
> This one will be closed before Christmas, but if I think it can
> be useful, I will teach another. It is very time consuming so I want some input as to whether the class is too difficult or whether there is a legitimate interest in another one.
> 
> There have been some great sweaters finished but even more started but not finished - and often without anything posted as to the reasons for giving up. * I need to know the pros and cons of this type of class*.
> 
> Designer.


----------



## Raybo

Hi Shirley

I'm sorry the workshop closes today, but I think I'm about good to go. I've finished the top down yoke and sleeves and also the bottom stripes, now just have to join them together.
Even with all my measuring, the bottom part ended up longer than I had planned, but I think it will be OK. 

PS I think another class like you mentioned would be great, if only for the motivation. This is the first sweater I've made in years and I may just keep on keeping on now that you've got me started. Thanks again for all your work.


----------



## Designer1234

I am closing this today - I will trim down the posts and the workshop will be available for all KP members from now on. I am going to hold another on February 22.
We will work on a top down sweater and will design a basic pattern to have either a lacy or patterned top - or have the design pattern element in the bottom part of the sweater. Those who have started the Coat of many colors 
are welcome to come and finish their sweater.

This workshop has been requested by some of the girls who have worked on sweaters with me in the past, or here on this workshop.

I am honored to have gotten to know you all. If you finish your sweater 
and it sounds as if some are close to doing so, please post a picture 
on the Parade

here are the links to all the parades for 2012 -- please check them out.

If you come here to read the information - IT IS IMPORTANT THAT YOU START ON PAGE ONE. Have a great Christmas everyone! Shirley (Designer1234)

Sweaters (coat of many colors): http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-121117-1.html

Waterfall tops: http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-117284-1.html

Stashbuster bags - http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-116648-1.html

basic socks: http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-117372-1.html#2237117

Slippers: http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-111122-1.html

Preliminary lace: http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-124789-1.html


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## Designer1234

*here is a wonderful sweater finished ny jwynn* -- I think it is great and I am very pleased that she put her picture in the Parade. I want it to be here as well.

I hope the rest of you will do the same with your sweaters. I will receive word whenever one goes into the parade and will post them here as well. thanks for letting us see your beautiful sweater. I really like your neckline. It looks great with the Tshirt and matching buttons too. great outfit. Designer


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## Designer1234

*WELCOME TO OUR WORKSHOP SECTION. Please be sure you check out all our open and closed workshops in the Workshop home section.

Just go to the top or bottom of this page (same line as the page numbers)and click the "Knitting and Crochet workshops with Designer1234" There you will find many workshops taught by our volunteer teachers, all members of KP

-You are welcome to use all the information on this CLOSED workshop and we hope it is helpful*.


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## prismaticr

Topic is now closed. For additional information not found on these pages. please try and private message (pm) the listed teacher.

Thank you and happy knitting/crocheting!


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