# Erica's SUNDIAL Cardigan - DOES ANYONE RECOGNISE THIS PATTERN ?



## flyssie

Just in case there are others like me - who have not been receiving notices of further posts - the cardigan pattern is now available for free on Erica's website until 4th April. I got a shock to find there were 50 more pages since I was last notified !! unsettlingly - a miscommunication discussion took up quite a few of those pages - but thank heavens eventually sorted out.
So for anyone awaiting the pattern check the old posting out (Does anyone recognise this pattern?) around pg 95 and the completed pattern at:
http://www.cogknits.com 
Erica is inviting everyone to a KAL (Knit a long) and provide help along the way with charts, etc - which is wonderful of her. She has done an amazing job and we all appreciate her mammoth efforts.
Cheers
Flyssie


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## vershi

Wow, I remember that cardigan, so glad she has made the pattern for it, thanks for the link. :thumbup:


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## Chrissy

Wonderful! Might have to buy that (shhhh don't tell Miss Molly!)


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## tintin63

Thanks for the link to the free pattern. It looks quite a task but it is a lovely cardigan.


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## Ciyona

For those that aren't recieving the posts, Check your profile you may have disabled the option to get the topic. That is what I had done all you need to do is enable it again and go to the topic make a post and you should start recieving it again.

the pattern is free until about the 4th of april. below is the link to the topic page

http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-122378-1.html


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## grammy602002

Thanks so much for the link....I love that pattern. I also love the second one too (the yellow one)...can't wait for the magazine to come out!!


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## eggplantlady

Well, I haven't received a post about this in a very long time so I just checked to see if I had 'unwatched' it and I hadn't. Obviously there is a glitch somewhere!

Anyway, THANK YOU so much for posting this...I had forgotten all about it and still love it dearly. This will now go on my 'make for sure' list!


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## flyssie

eggplantlady said:


> Well, I haven't received a post about this in a very long time so I just checked to see if I had 'unwatched' it and I hadn't. Obviously there is a glitch somewhere!
> 
> Anyway, THANK YOU so much for posting this...I had forgotten all about it and still love it dearly. This will now go on my 'make for sure' list!


Yes I also HAD NOT "unwatched" the post - so was quite surprised. Cheers
Flyssie


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## rujam

I can't believe it, only a few minutes ago I was wondering if the cardigan pattern was completed. What a coincidence.


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## Ciyona

try going to my profile and update notifications you may have it turned off. That is what admin had me do and I now get it but had to go to the topic and make a post to recieve them again. Sometimes we get to much mail and shut down our notifications and forget that we had done so. I hope this helps out if not contact admin and explain that you aren't getting your posts.


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## missmolly

Chrissy said:


> Wonderful! Might have to buy that (shhhh don't tell Miss Molly!)


(Nothing gets past me Chrissy :wink: :wink: :lol: )
Thanks for posting this ~ I remember the original posting :thumbup:


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## vershi

Chrissy said:


> Wonderful! Might have to buy that (shhhh don't tell Miss Molly!)


Its a free one for a while.


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## Stablebummom

Chrissy said:


> Wonderful! Might have to buy that (shhhh don't tell Miss Molly!)


The pattern is available for free for 1 week!!!!


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## gdhavens

I never got the notification for this posting, and I only found it by accident. I have completed the first chart and am on to the second chart.

For chart phobics out there, these charts are easy to follow and fun to do. I am not a fan of charts either, but really wanted to try this sweater.


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## christine 47

flyssie said:


> Just in case there are others like me - who have not been receiving notices of further posts - the cardigan pattern is now available for free on Erica's website until 4th April. I got a shock to find there were 50 more pages since I was last notified !! unsettlingly - a miscommunication discussion took up quite a few of those pages - but thank heavens eventually sorted out.
> So for anyone awaiting the pattern check the old posting out (Does anyone recognise this pattern?) around pg 95 and the completed pattern at:
> http://www.cogknits.com
> Erica is inviting everyone to a KAL (Knit a long) and provide help along the way with charts, etc - which is wonderful of her. She has done an amazing job and we all appreciate her mammoth efforts.
> Cheers
> Flyssie


When will the KAL start. I avoid charts so maybe it's time to grasp the nettle with some help.


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## Jokim

flyssie said:


> Just in case there are others like me - who have not been receiving notices of further posts - the cardigan pattern is now available for free on Erica's website until 4th April. I got a shock to find there were 50 more pages since I was last notified !! unsettlingly - a miscommunication discussion took up quite a few of those pages - but thank heavens eventually sorted out.
> So for anyone awaiting the pattern check the old posting out (Does anyone recognise this pattern?) around pg 95 and the completed pattern at:
> http://www.cogknits.com
> Erica is inviting everyone to a KAL (Knit a long) and provide help along the way with charts, etc - which is wonderful of her. She has done an amazing job and we all appreciate her mammoth efforts.
> Cheers
> Flyssie


Thank you for letting us know how to find this pattern. I have been following the thread but have not heard anything about it for some time. Thanks again, and Thank you, Erica!


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## questmiller

Even though Erica is offering this pattern for free right now, she's worked so very hard on pleasing so many of us, I do hope you join me in offering her a "donation" through PayPal.


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## maryannn

questmiller said:


> Even though Erica is offering this pattern for free right now, she's worked so very hard on pleasing so many of us, I do hope you join me in offering her a "donation" through PayPal.


I have donated and most others have also.

Darla has helped me with the pattern. Thank you so much, Darla
MA


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## Flybreit

grammy602002 said:


> Thanks so much for the link....I love that pattern. I also love the second one too (the yellow one)...can't wait for the magazine to come out!!


The magazine is out! Saw it at the LYS this morning. I think the owner was quite impressed that I knew the designer's name without looking. :lol:

Then I piqued her curiosity by saying, "just wait until you see her next pattern!"


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## janwalla

christine 47 said:


> When will the KAL start. I avoid charts so maybe it's time to grasp the nettle with some help.


Erica posted that she was going on a short holiday over Easter and would start the Kal when she got back. I'm not sure exactly what day will be. I would just check out her own web page as she was going to upload video's that may help in the making of this cardigan.
I know that some have already started but I haven't yet as I have a few things I need to finish first.
Here is the link to Erica's own site
http://www.cogknits.com


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## kittys punkin

I have been following the post [does anyone know] since it started. I have downloaded the pattern and donated. Everyone is anxiously waiting for the KAL. Just wanted to post here in case it is moved here.


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## mom2grif

You actually don't have to make a post to follow, just click "watch" at the top.


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## ElegantDetails

I'm so excited to get the pattern. !.!..I was more than happy to donate to the cause...this has been such a wild ride; only to get more exciting as we get knitting! ! :lol: Anybody from the Tacoma, WA area working on it?


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## barcar

Count me in on the kal. I would love to knit along.


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## CindyV

What I figured out re: the notification is that if you happen to overlook an email notification that there has been a new posting and you don't go to the sight then you stop receiving the notifications until you log into that subject again.


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## RiverSong

I was happy to donate to Erica, she has been fantastic. I very much appreciate her hard work.


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## peachy51

Sooooo jazzed this morning! I was initially intimidated by the charts ... but that part is going swimingly 

I did run into a slight snag tho as I had never done the ML and MR increases.

Found a great visual on those in case there are others like me who have never done one:

http://community.knitpicks.com/notes/Increase_-_Knit_Into_Stitch_Below


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## Carole-Jayne

Don't know if this might help others ... I have created a Bookmark file called Sundial Cardigan and I have opened all the links people have suggested and added them to that file. That way, they are all together and if/when <g> I get stuck all the web links will be in one place!
ATB
cj


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## janwalla

Erica announced KAL 1st April on here! Yipeeeeeeeeee!!!!!!!


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## lulu11

I am in ready to start the kal


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## Jill2

Sometimes I'll check my email and there will be four notifications of recent posts on a certain thread. I'll click on the earliest email and read all the posts since last time I looked. Then when I go back to my email I delete any further emails regarding posts on that same thread. That's how I believe I was taken off the notification list....if you delete an email without opening it, it thinks you are no longer interested and takes you off the list.


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## sewlee

christine 47 said:


> When will the KAL start. I avoid charts so maybe it's time to grasp the nettle with some help.


April 1, on this thread.


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## maryannn

janwalla said:


> Erica announced KAL 1st April on here! Yipeeeeeeeeee!!!!!!!


We will be on our way home tomorrow from Florida. Hope I can 4 G all the way.
MA


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## charlenekbenton

Been working on the sleeves, can't wait to start KAL!!


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## Patchworkcat

charlenekbenton said:


> Been working on the sleeves, can't wait to start KAL!!


Just curious: what size needles are you using, and did you have trouble getting gauge?

Jill


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## Flybreit

Patchworkcat said:


> Just curious: what size needles are you using, and did you have trouble getting gauge?
> 
> Jill


I'm working another gauge swatch tonight - I'll start with 9's but it may take 10's. I didn't realize I am a tight knitter, but I must be because the yarn is labeled 18-20 sts = 4" on 7 's or 8's. I was at 21 stitches on 8's.


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## mom2grif

Flybreit said:


> I'm working another gauge swatch tonight - I'll start with 9's but it may take 10's. I didn't realize I am a tight knitter, but I must be because the yarn is labeled 18-20 sts = 4" on 7 's or 8's. I was at 21 stitches on 8's.


That's a big difference. It's hard for me to image you knit that tight. Do you have trouble getting your needle in the stitches?


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## Patchworkcat

Flybreit said:


> I'm working another gauge swatch tonight - I'll start with 9's but it may take 10's. I didn't realize I am a tight knitter, but I must be because the yarn is labeled 18-20 sts = 4" on 7 's or 8's. I was at 21 stitches on 8's.


I'm worried because I'm a very tight knitter, too. Plus, I find needles larger than a size 6 to be very awkward in my hands. My yarn is on order from Webs and with the holiday, who knows when it'll get here. <darn>

Jill


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## charlenekbenton

I didn't do a swatch just started the sleeves on size 8 which is what Erica mentioned.....and after checking gauge it was dead on....thought I might have to go down to a 7 but not the case.....it's no wonder, Jill, that the needles feel large, after knitting socks these things feel like they are 15's!! Took me awhile to get use to them...I stopped working on the sleeves last night to finish a knitted dress for Sophia's (great granddaughter) 1st bday gift...I was using a size 5 on the skirt then switched to a size 2 for the bodice....funny how I use to swear I'd NEVER work on any smaller needles than a 6 or 7 & now after taking your sock workshop I really enjoy & prefer using the smaller needles!! My sleeves on the cardigan now measure 13" so I have 4 more inches before starting the cap decreases. As a few others have mentioned I too have never done a KAL so am anxious to see what is involved. See u all tomorrow!! Oh, & hope ou all had a blessed Easter!!


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## Flybreit

No, I really don't. I was using DPNs for the sleeves. Tonight I'll be working flat so we'll see if that makes a difference.


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## Patchworkcat

charlenekbenton said:


> I didn't do a swatch just started the sleeves on size 8 which is what Erica mentioned.....and after checking gauge it was dead on....thought I might have to go down to a 7 but not the case.....it's no wonder, Jill, that the needles feel large, after knitting socks these things feel like they are 15's!! Took me awhile to get use to them...I stopped working on the sleeves last night to finish a knitted dress for Sophia's (great granddaughter) 1st bday gift...I was using a size 5 on the skirt then switched to a size 2 for the bodice....funny how I use to swear I'd NEVER work on any smaller needles than a 6 or 7 & now after taking your sock workshop I really enjoy & prefer using the smaller needles!! My sleeves on the cardigan now measure 13" so I have 4 more inches before starting the cap decreases. As a few others have mentioned I too have never done a KAL so am anxious to see what is involved. See u all tomorrow!! Oh, & hope ou all had a blessed Easter!!


The main trouble with knitting using smaller needles is that whatever you're knitting takes longer ... or in my case, being such a slow knitter it can take almost forever.

I've never done a KAL either, but I would imagine it will be much like our usual workshops: knit at your own pace, ask questions as they arise, and enjoy having someone who knows what they're doing there to help.

Hope you enjoy your Easter, too.

Jill


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## donna47304

CaROLE-JAYNE said:


> Don't know if this might help others ... I have created a Bookmark file called Sundial Cardigan and I have opened all the links people have suggested and added them to that file. That way, they are all together and if/when <g> I get stuck all the web links will be in one place!
> ATB
> cj


I'm not familiar with Bookmark files. How do you use them? Sounds like a great idea to keep a running file of links others post that are useful. Is this something you make publicly or is it your private file?

How can I find out about them?


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## charlenekbenton

I have not started the body of the sweater yet....I have read thru page 1 & am not sure what " PM" before ML means....it's the last sentence on page 1....checked the abbreviations but couldn't find it so if someone can help before we get started that will be one question Erica won't have to address.
Thanks, I may just be missing something here just thought I'd ask.


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## Jessica-Jean

donna47304 said:


> I'm not familiar with Bookmark files. How do you use them? Sounds like a great idea to keep a running file of links others post that are useful. Is this something you make publicly or is it your private file?
> 
> How can I find out about them?


Click on the word Bookmark. Type what you want as the description. It's your choice to make it public or not. Click on Save. 
Then you can find it by clicking on the link My Bookmarks at the top of the page. If you want to see someone else's bookmarks, click on their name, and then on their bookmarks in their profile.


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## mom2grif

Place marker, make one left


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## CindyV

I finally got to get started tonight and I am lost on row 5 - I don't know what LT - left twist - means to do?


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## CindyV

I got it - it's the cable - duh!


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## peachy51

mom2grif said:


> Place marker, make one left


According to Erica's instructions it is not a M1 left ... it is actually a lifted increase left leaning.

Here is a video for both the right leaning and left leaning:






Instead of picking up the bar as for a M1, you actually knit into the row below for the increase.


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## peachy51

CindyV said:


> I finally got to get started tonight and I am lost on row 5 - I don't know what LT - left twist - means to do?


Look at the legend for the chart. Instructions are there for the Left Twist.


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## peachy51

UGH! 

Almost finished with Chart A and have decided to frog and start over. Just didn't like the way my lifted increases were looking. Been practicing them and now starting over  

Oh, well, if I'm going to spend my time making this sweater, I do want it to look as good as I can make it look.


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## mom2grif

peachy51 said:


> According to Erica's instructions it is not a M1 left ... it is actually a lifted increase left leaning.
> 
> Here is a video for both the right leaning and left leaning:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of picking up the bar as for a M1, you actually knit into the row below for the increase.


Oops


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## Ciyona

Well, I hope my dh will get my new printer hooked up so I can print out the pattern to work with. I have only been asking for days to get it done. Now I need it in a hurry. Of course him having mai doesn't help as he has been way under the weather as of late. I am hoping that the dr's can come up with something soon for him. He has lost a lot of weight though he eats well enough. The cough is worse and he has no energy. Something has to give soon. Anyway, I do hope to begin the KAL with everyone as I am sure I am going to have lot's of questions.


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## CindyV

Thank you Peachy51. I kept looking but couldn't find it.


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## Carole-Jayne

donna47304 said:


> I'm not familiar with Bookmark files. How do you use them? Sounds like a great idea to keep a running file of links others post that are useful. Is this something you make publicly or is it your private file?
> 
> How can I find out about them?


I have an Apple computer and I use Safari for my browser - but I'm pretty all browsers would have some way of filing webpages and links. In Safari for example, one of the headings is History - which lists every site you visited today, yesterday, the day before etc, so if you suddenly think of something you were looking at a couple of days ago you can find it through the History. Next to it, on Safari is a heading Bookmarks - but I'm SURE all browsers have something like it.

Under Bookmarks you create Folders - eg I have Knitting Crocheting, Things I WANT to do, Design ideas etc etc etc. Now I have one Sundial Cardigan. If someone here write - try this link xxxxx, I go there and if I think it might help me in the future, while the webpage is open, I click on the Bookmarks Heading, ask it to Save - it says "Where" and I say, in this case "Sundial Cardigan" and it saves in that Folder. That way I have everyone's suggestions all together.

For example, I prefer the 'loop and turn' method of short rows - but I also Saved the German Short Rows link to the video just in case I want to try it.

It's just a way of saving information from the internet that is personal for you in an organised filing system - so you can retrieve it!.

I do hope this helps.
ATB
cj


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## Marienkaeferoma

I won't be able to get my yarn for another week or so. 
I will have to 'virtual knit' until I get my yarn. Hope I'll be able to catch up then!


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## Carole-Jayne

Ciyona said:


> Well, I hope my dh will get my new printer hooked up so I can print out the pattern to work with. I have only been asking for days to get it done. Now I need it in a hurry. Of course him having mai doesn't help as he has been way under the weather as of late. I am hoping that the dr's can come up with something soon for him. He has lost a lot of weight though he eats well enough. The cough is worse and he has no energy. Something has to give soon. Anyway, I do hope to begin the KAL with everyone as I am sure I am going to have lot's of questions.


I'm sorry to here that he's not well it's always so worrying isn't it! Fortunately, I do think that any form of handwork helps us relax and clears our mind. The Buddhists call this kind of work Mindful/working or walking meditation. BUT it has to be on easy work so I don't think this pattern will be calming!
All the best, I hope he is feeling better soon.
cj


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## donna47304

Thanks for your most helpful reply. I will now start using the bookmark function as I like to keep track of a few items for an extended project like this. I usually re-copy the tid-bits to a Word doc but this is even more convenient when reading on here.

Thanks for the lesson. I guess I could have investigated the Help file, but now I don't have to.


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## donna47304

CaROLE-JAYNE said:


> It's just a way of saving information from the internet that is personal for you in an organised filing system - so you can retrieve it!.
> 
> I do hope this helps.
> ATB
> cj


Thanks, cj, for your extended reply. I do use the Bookmark function in both Explorer and Safari, but I'd not used it within Knitting Paradise. I thought your suggestion to keep related files for a specfic project within KP was a good idea and between you and Jessica-Jean, I will now use that function.

Once the project is finished on KP, I'll transfer that information to my computer, but having it here while the project is on-going will be useful.


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## Carole-Jayne

donna47304 said:


> Thanks for your most helpful reply. I will now start using the bookmark function as I like to keep track of a few items for an extended project like this. I usually re-copy the tid-bits to a Word doc but this is even more convenient when reading on here.
> 
> Thanks for the lesson. I guess I could have investigated the Help file, but now I don't have to.


Glad I could help - for example, I was reading here a minute ago about the increasing using the 'stitch under' method. I'm not there yet, so I went to the YouTube saw the video and Bookmarked it into the Sundial File. This way I don't have to tax my memory be remembering all this new stuff<g>
cj


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## Marjorie Egan

I too seem to have been "eliminated" from this post, many pages ago. I hope I can "get it". I am not very "techy". I have my Cascade 220 and am ready to go. I pray it will work!


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## Carole-Jayne

Marjorie Egan said:


> I too seem to have been "eliminated" from this post, many pages ago. I hope I can "get it". I am not very "techy". I have my Cascade 220 and am ready to go. I pray it will work!


Don't worry - you'll have plenty of support always ready to help.
cj


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## Carolinesol

Just bought my yarn. Aran as in uk and I need help already ! I have started to do sleeves to use as a gauge swatch and using 4.5 m needles I was getting 20 sts to 4 inches so tried 4mm and now getting about 19 .5 per 4 inches...... So my work will be to big wont it ? Help !!!!!


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## Susanrph

Thank you. It looks beautiful. You're awfully generous!


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## Jill2

Anxious for the KAL to start!


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## Joy8753

Carolinesol said:


> Just bought my yarn. Aran as in uk and I need help already ! I have started to do sleeves to use as a gauge swatch and using 4.5 m needles I was getting 20 sts to 4 inches so tried 4mm and now getting about 19 .5 per 4 inches...... So my work will be to big wont it ? Help !!!!!


Take a deep breath and think! You need to try a 5 or 5.5, fatter needles = less sts per inch. Feel counter intuitive I know, but give it a go. I always knit Aran on 5 or above and get a perfect gauge. Good luck
You know you can do it! :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
If this is rubbish please tell me kindly, I am just out of hospital with vertigo, so I am not very reliable! :thumbdown:


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## Carolinesol

Thanks Joy. Will try that in a minute just doing meal. Sorry should not panic, silly of me.
I had vertigo a couple of times last year out of the blue and it really worried me until I had seen doctor.
Take care
Thank you


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## Erica Patberg

I hope he's feeling better soon. I hear that most cases (as long as the patient has a healthy immune system) will resolve on its own. The treatment, if needed is a long (18 month) course of antibiotics which can have lots of unpleasant side effects. Encourage him to rest and not to drink or smoke if he does either of those. (BTW hubby is a lung Dr. and I asked him how he would treat if it were his patient). I wish your dh a speedy recovery.



Ciyona said:


> Well, I hope my dh will get my new printer hooked up so I can print out the pattern to work with. I have only been asking for days to get it done. Now I need it in a hurry. Of course him having mai doesn't help as he has been way under the weather as of late. I am hoping that the dr's can come up with something soon for him. He has lost a lot of weight though he eats well enough. The cough is worse and he has no energy. Something has to give soon. Anyway, I do hope to begin the KAL with everyone as I am sure I am going to have lot's of questions.


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## janwalla

Carolinesol said:


> Just bought my yarn. Aran as in uk and I need help already ! I have started to do sleeves to use as a gauge swatch and using 4.5 m needles I was getting 20 sts to 4 inches so tried 4mm and now getting about 19 .5 per 4 inches...... So my work will be to big wont it ? Help !!!!!


Aran in the UK you use 5mm that should give you the correct gauge. If you are getting more stitches than you should, you need to go up a size in needle, to bring the stitch per inch down. Hope this helps


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## questmiller

I have gotten as far as the back section and wonder about the increases. I did the lift stitches in the middle of the sections as written and can see a small distinction at those points. I'm hoping that they will block out, but wondered if the increases were made on the sides of those sections (on the edge of the purl stitches) if they would be less visible. Any thoughts?


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## pinsandneedles

I'm lost... has the Kal started I cannot find it.Could someone tell me which link if it has started. Thanks.


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## Carolinesol

Thanks Joy and Janwallea have tried 5mm and its now fine. I am now doing my sleeves. Not started the hard bit yet !


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## Carole-Jayne

pinsandneedles said:


> I'm lost... has the Kal started I cannot find it.Could someone tell me which link if it has started. Thanks.


Don't worry, you haven't missed anything. It will start here - Erica will post the updated version of the pattern and .... "away we go"!
cj


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## charlenekbenton

Erica's post yesterday stated it would start today, however she just posted on the older thread that she is traveling home today so I doubt it will start until tomorrow.


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## pinsandneedles

Thanks guys, nerves are getting the best of me I guess.


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## charlenekbenton

We r all excited to start so don't worry we all understand


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## sandease

This is new to me. How do I find the bookmark file?



CaROLE-JAYNE said:


> Don't know if this might help others ... I have created a Bookmark file called Sundial Cardigan and I have opened all the links people have suggested and added them to that file. That way, they are all together and if/when <g> I get stuck all the web links will be in one place!
> ATB
> cj


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## Ciyona

Thanks Carole-Jayne, I just needed to vent this morning. On with knitting.



CaROLE-JAYNE said:


> I'm sorry to here that he's not well it's always so worrying isn't it! Fortunately, I do think that any form of handwork helps us relax and clears our mind. The Buddhists call this kind of work Mindful/working or walking meditation. BUT it has to be on easy work so I don't think this pattern will be calming!
> All the best, I hope he is feeling better soon.
> cj


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## Ciyona

Thank you so much Erica, They had him on antibiotics for well over two years and they haven't helped but now that they have a definite diagnoses they are trying to find out how resistent it is to the antibiotics and go from there. He has had this for three years and it has been nerve wracking. At first they thought it was TB and it was actually my own dr who said it was MAI. Over a year ago but they couldn't get the samples to prove it until now. He has a good Pulmonary Phycisian and I hope she will get the right answers for him. I do know that Mai can turn into TB I just hope it hasn't gone that far. Tell Your DH Thank you for the advice I do apperciate it.



Erica Patberg said:


> I hope he's feeling better soon. I hear that most cases (as long as the patient has a healthy immune system) will resolve on its own. The treatment, if needed is a long (18 month) course of antibiotics which can have lots of unpleasant side effects. Encourage him to rest and not to drink or smoke if he does either of those. (BTW hubby is a lung Dr. and I asked him how he would treat if it were his patient). I wish your dh a speedy recovery.


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## Erica Patberg

Let's get this party started! For those of you who were waiting for the updated PDF it's now uploaded to my website http://www.cogknits.com/. If you've already printed out the pattern, don't reprint the whole thing, you just need to reprint page 7 (or color in the missing red dot) 

As for the KAL, Cast on! If you're waiting for your yarn, join us once you've got it. If this is your first knit along, the basic idea is that a group of knitters all knit the same pattern and help each other along if someone gets stuck, and share tips, tricks or modifications. You can post photos, comments, chat, it's loose. The main thing is that we have fun. It's not a race. There is no prize for finishing first (except you get to wear your sweater sooner).

One modification that you might want to consider, is the width of the lower stockinette portion of the cardigan front. IF you do want to make this wider FIRST determine how wide you'd like to make it, and how many stitches this would be. TIP: multiply the extra width in inches X 4.25 and round to the nearest whole number. For example, The bottom stockinette border is aprox. 2 1/2 inches. IF I'd rather this were 4 1/2 inches than I'd take the difference (2 inches) and plug it in... 2 X 4.25=8.5. Rounding brings me to 9.

SECOND: When following the Set Up Rows add your extra sts number (in our example this is 9) to the number of sts to cast on in Row 3. 7 + 9 = 16, so I'd cast on 16 sts. These extra sts are knitted on the right and purled on the wrong side, and just follow the rest of the directions as written.

Welcome and let's get knitting!


----------



## Carole-Jayne

Erica Patberg said:


> Let's get this party started! For those of you who were waiting for the updated PDF it's now uploaded to my website http://www.cogknits.com. If you've already printed out the pattern, don't reprint the whole thing, you just need to reprint page 7 (or color in the missing red dot)
> 
> As for the KAL, Cast on! If you're waiting for your yarn, join us once you've got it. If this is your first knit along, the basic idea is that a group of knitters all knit the same pattern and help each other along if someone gets stuck, and share tips, tricks or modifications. You can post photos, comments, chat, it's loose. The main thing is that we have fun. It's not a race. There is no prize for finishing first (except you get to wear your sweater sooner).
> 
> One modification that you might want to consider, is the width of the lower stockinette portion of the cardigan front. IF you do want to make this wider FIRST determine how wide you'd like to make it, and how many stitches this would be. TIP: multiply the extra width in inches X 4.25 and round to the nearest whole number. For example, The bottom stockinette border is aprox. 2 1/2 inches. IF I'd rather this were 4 1/2 inches than I'd take the difference (2 inches) and plug it in... 2 X 4.25=8.5. Rounding brings me to 9.
> 
> SECOND: When following the Set Up Rows add your extra sts number (in our example this is 9) to the number of sts to cast on in Row 3. 7 + 9 = 16, so I'd cast on 16 sts. These extra sts are knitted on the right and purled on the wrong side, and just follow the rest of the directions as written.
> 
> Welcome and let's get knitting!


Clicking on your cognits link - it came up - this site is not published!!!!! any ideas?


----------



## Carole-Jayne

Site Not Published
The site you are looking for has not been published
If you are the owner of the site, you can fix this message by publishing your site to this address.

This is what I was getting 
cj


----------



## Joy8753

I am getting that error message too


----------



## Carole-Jayne

Joy8753 said:


> I am getting that error message too


April Fool???????????
cj


----------



## Erica Patberg

I think you were just too fast for me  I uploaded the file, typed the message and then rememberd, OOPS I haven't published the updated website, and then quick hit publish. It's working for me now. Give it another try? 


CaROLE-JAYNE said:


> Site Not Published
> The site you are looking for has not been published
> If you are the owner of the site, you can fix this message by publishing your site to this address.
> 
> This is what I was getting
> cj


----------



## Patchworkcat

Erica, my yarn hasn't even arrived yet, but I have a question about sizing. My bust measurement is 45 inches, but everything knit for that size is too large in the armholes. So, how much ease is allowed in this pattern and which size do you recommend since your size range goes from a 42 straight to a 48? Also, I'm a very tight knitter so it may well take me awhile to even reach the right gauge ... just sayin'.

Jill


----------



## Carole-Jayne

Erica Patberg said:


> I think you were just too fast for me  I uploaded the file, typed the message and then rememberd, OOPS I haven't published the updated website, and then quick hit publish. It's working for me now. Give it another try?


Not yet!
cj


----------



## Ciyona

Mot yet for me either. I will try later this evening.


----------



## peachy51

When I click on the link it tells me the site is not published and when I manually type in the web address it says "Something cool coming soon"


----------



## Erica Patberg

That's a toughee. You fall right in the middle of those two sizes. If you're swatching, and your gauge is too tight, go ahead and knit the 48" size. You can always move the buttons a bit to adjust the fit. As for the armholes, with this pattern it's actually pretty simple to adjust the armholes smaller, since the depth of the armhole is determined by how long you knit the upper back section and the upper left and right cardigan front. If I were you, I'd knit the pieces per directions, seam the fronts and the back to the body (leave the sleeves off for now) and then pin the shoulder seam and try it on. Adjust it until it falls well, mark, and then unravel the extra bits, cast off. Adjust the back appropriately and reknit the short rows for the shoulders and then cast off. Then seam the shoulder seams. THEN set in your sleeves.



Patchworkcat said:


> Erica, my yarn hasn't even arrived yet, but I have a question about sizing. My bust measurement is 45 inches, but everything knit for that size is too large in the armholes. So, how much ease is allowed in this pattern and which size do you recommend since your size range goes from a 42 straight to a 48? Also, I'm a very tight knitter so it may well take me awhile to even reach the right gauge ... just sayin'.
> 
> Jill


----------



## Erica Patberg

Really strange, because it opens for me. Hmmm.... Let me go back and republish...


peachy51 said:


> When I click on the link it tells me the site is not published and when I manually type in the web address it says "Something cool coming soon"


----------



## Erica Patberg

Something was funky in the link in my post. Don't know what, but it's fixed.  The site is up


----------



## Marjorie Egan

Mine says the same thing.... Not Published


----------



## Carole-Jayne

Erica Patberg said:


> Really strange, because it opens for me. Hmmm.... Let me go back and republish...


Obviously the gremlins are alive and well - and living in the Netherlands <g>
cj


----------



## peachy51

The link in the post still doesn't work, but this link works:

http://www.cogknits.com/2/post/2013/03/its-finally-here-the-sunburst-cabled-cardigan.html


----------



## Carole-Jayne

peachy51 said:


> The link in the post still doesn't work, but this link works:
> 
> http://www.cogknits.com/2/post/2013/03/its-finally-here-the-sunburst-cabled-cardigan.html


Yes it does - but is it the corrected version - can you tell?
cj


----------



## Patchworkcat

Erica Patberg said:


> That's a toughee. You fall right in the middle of those two sizes. If you're swatching, and your gauge is too tight, go ahead and knit the 48" size. You can always move the buttons a bit to adjust the fit. As for the armholes, with this pattern it's actually pretty simple to adjust the armholes smaller, since the depth of the armhole is determined by how long you knit the upper back section and the upper left and right cardigan front. If I were you, I'd knit the pieces per directions, seam the fronts and the back to the body (leave the sleeves off for now) and then pin the shoulder seam and try it on. Adjust it until it falls well, mark, and then unravel the extra bits, cast off. Adjust the back appropriately and reknit the short rows for the shoulders and then cast off. Then seam the shoulder seams. THEN set in your sleeves.


And, I'm really hoping all of that will make more sense to me once I reach that point. I'm definitely a visual learner. <lol>

Jill


----------



## peachy51

CaROLE-JAYNE said:


> Yes it does - but is it the corrected version - can you tell?
> cj


I think so CJ ... it does have a dot on page 7 that the other version did not have.


----------



## YoMaMi

Stopped by Webs today on my way home and got 10 skeins of Valley Yarns Northampton in Denim Heather. $41.90, and I can return any unused skeins if need be.
Ready to go.
THANK YOU ERICA!!
Toni in Massachusetts where almost all the snow piles are gone


----------



## Jill2

peachy51 said:


> I think so CJ ... it does have a dot on page 7 that the other version did not have.


Yes, the PDF has been updated....the red dot has been added....thanks Erica!


----------



## gdhavens

I have my sweater started. I knit the sleeves when their pattern first came out. I am on the short row part. 

Erica, your pattern is beautifully written. Any problems I have had are of my own making (trying to hurry so I can see how it turns out!). I just need to remind myself to go slow and knit one row at a time.


----------



## Carole-Jayne

YoMaMi said:


> Stopped by Webs today on my way home and got 10 skeins of Valley Yarns Northampton in Denim Heather. $41.90, and I can return any unused skeins if need be.
> Ready to go.
> THANK YOU ERICA!!
> Toni in Massachusetts where almost all the snow piles are gone


YOU STOPPED BY WEBS?????????? OH GROAN!!!!!!!!!!
In the entire provine of Nova Scotia there is only one yarn store and it's 3.5 hours there - and they don't even have a good website!
I envy you - imagine just playing with all that yarn! I love WEBS. Still if I didn't have to pay postage, duty and NS tax I'd spend faster than I can knit!!
cj


----------



## questmiller

I'm almost thinking I should start all over. I don't think I like how the increases came out. What about doing the increases at the edges of the section? 
And another question is about the increases at the end of the hip and bust shaping. Do we just knit them stockinette?


----------



## Flybreit

Coming from someone who is on row 8: WOW! Gorgeous


----------



## Needleme

OK, I am on Row 1 of Chart A. What does "no stitch, ignore this space" mean? I am sure it means what it says, but I don't know what it is telling me to do !!


----------



## Needleme

Oh, wait-- is it because the cable is just building??


----------



## peachy51

Needleme said:


> OK, I am on Row 1 of Chart A. What does "no stitch, ignore this space" mean? I am sure it means what it says, but I don't know what it is telling me to do !!


It means to just ignore it and go to the next space that has a stitch ... I'm new to charts and just learning how it all works too


----------



## Needleme

peachy51 said:


> It means to just ignore it and go to the next space that has a stitch ... I'm new to charts and just learning how it all works too


Thanks!! This is my first chart, but it's kinda fun! Very different for me.


----------



## Jill2

questmiller said:


> I'm almost thinking I should start all over. I don't think I like how the increases came out. What about doing the increases at the edges of the section?
> And another question is about the increases at the end of the hip and bust shaping. Do we just knit them stockinette?


Your sweater is looking beautiful.

Before you go any further, take a look at the instructions for working chart B
It reads 'working the stitches in the pattern repeat box a multiple of 4 times'
After repeating those 4 times, there is one additional cable on chart B.
This tells me that there should be a total of 5 cables across the back, just like on the front.
So, after casting on the 19 sts for the back of the armhole, I added that 5th cable back into the pattern.

What do you think, do you read it that way too?


----------



## CarolZ

Very nice Jill! I'm just starting the first chart. Love your color.


----------



## peachy51

Oh, Wow! Your sweaters are coming along so nicely. I got almost all of Chart A complete yesterday and didn't like the way my increases were looking so I frogged it all and started over  :mrgreen:


----------



## Needleme

I am starting over for the fourth time! Each time I learn a little more, so I am not discouraged. However, I shall change the ball of yarn in case the first one was haunted or cursed or something. 
Onward!


----------



## Needleme

Right-- blame the yarn!!!


----------



## peachy51

Needleme said:


> I am starting over for the fourth time! Each time I learn a little more, so I am not discouraged. However, I shall change the ball of yarn in case the first one was haunted or cursed or something.
> Onward!


LOL ... I know how you feel. I was hoping I wouldn't wear the yarn out before I got it right!


----------



## gdhavens

I assume you would go back to the 5 cables. If you look at the chart, the directions say "work X# of repeats of Chart B, working the stitches in the red pattern box a multiple of 4 times", which is just what the directions for Chart A said and this gives you 4 cables there plus the one cable outside the red box.

Isn't this a fun pattern to knit? A little outside the norm, but a nice change.


----------



## questmiller

Jill2 said:


> Your sweater is looking beautiful.
> 
> Before you go any further, take a look at the instructions for working chart B
> It reads 'working the stitches in the pattern repeat box a multiple of 4 times'
> After repeating those 4 times, there is one additional cable on chart B.
> This tells me that there should be a total of 5 cables across the back, just like on the front.
> So, after casting on the 19 sts for the back of the armhole, I added that 5th cable back into the pattern.
> 
> What do you think, do you read it that way too?


Thanks, Jill2, I do believe you are right!
I do love getting help here...


----------



## questmiller

Jill2 said:


> Your sweater is looking beautiful.
> 
> Before you go any further, take a look at the instructions for working chart B
> It reads 'working the stitches in the pattern repeat box a multiple of 4 times'
> After repeating those 4 times, there is one additional cable on chart B.
> This tells me that there should be a total of 5 cables across the back, just like on the front.
> So, after casting on the 19 sts for the back of the armhole, I added that 5th cable back into the pattern.
> 
> What do you think, do you read it that way too?


Your piece looks really nice, by the way -- any suggestions for getting the increases to look good? I don't see any indication in your photo of the increase spots. I guess I need to do more research on how to get them to be less obvious.


----------



## ElegantDetails

I'm obviously chart challenged......I have done and redone the first 7 rows so many times it now knits itself. Seriously.....I only have 45 stitches instead of 109 ???? I knitted across the bottom of chart A from right to left then did the 4 repeats of the red box......so where did I screw up. I'm missing more than half the required stitches? ????? Talk about needing my hand held. It appears that many of us will at the least be expert froggers!!


----------



## Jill2

questmiller said:


> Your piece looks really nice, by the way -- any suggestions for getting the increases to look good? I don't see any indication in your photo of the increase spots. I guess I need to do more research on how to get them to be less obvious.


Thank you! The ML directions was a new one for me.....seemed awkward to knit into the stitch 2 rows below, and then for the MR only 1 row below....but I had faith that our awesome leader knew what she was doing, and I'm pleased with the results. Doing the increases in the middle of the plain area also keeps the outside edges, the purl 2 ditch, nice and even.

Very wise of you to have added life lines. I did not, and after CO the 19 sts for the back noticed that I had missed a cable twist, I tinked back many rows because I had no life line and there were short rows involved....lesson learned!!


----------



## charlenekbenton

Anyone want to borrow my queen frog avatar? I got this from our workshop leader for frogging my 1st sock a total of 15 times. Still knitting the sleeves.....almost ready to do the cap decreases can't wait to get started on the body!!
Happy knitting everyone!


----------



## peachy51

ElegantDetails said:


> I'm obviously chart challenged......I have done and redone the first 7 rows so many times it now knits itself. Seriously.....I only have 45 stitches instead of 109 ???? I knitted across the bottom of chart A from right to left then did the 4 repeats of the red box......so where did I screw up. I'm missing more than half the required stitches? ????? Talk about needing my hand held. It appears that many of us will at the least be expert froggers!!


You will have 109 stitches when you finish with Chart A ... there are a lot of increases in the Chart. For example, since I have started over, I am on Row 8 of the Chart and I only have 51 stitches right now. I think you just need to keep knitting.


----------



## peachy51

questmiller said:


> Your piece looks really nice, by the way -- any suggestions for getting the increases to look good? I don't see any indication in your photo of the increase spots. I guess I need to do more research on how to get them to be less obvious.


Those increases are the reason I frogged and have started over. I think whether they are truly invisible or not depends on the yarn you are using. The yarn I am using has great stitch definition, so I'm expecting they will show up more on mine than if I had used another yarn.


----------



## Jill2

ElegantDetails said:


> I'm obviously chart challenged......I have done and redone the first 7 rows so many times it now knits itself. Seriously.....I only have 45 stitches instead of 109 ???? I knitted across the bottom of chart A from right to left then did the 4 repeats of the red box......so where did I screw up. I'm missing more than half the required stitches? ????? Talk about needing my hand held. It appears that many of us will at the least be expert froggers!!


I think you may have worked the first row of chart A backwards.

Starting at the right, follow the chart until you reach the left side of the red box.
Now go back and knit the stitches within the red box 3 more times.

You have now knit the stitches within the red box a total of 4 times.

Now finish the row by working the stitches that are on the left side of the box, outside of the red box.

If you count only the white boxes within a row (count boxes within red box 4 times) that will tell you how many sts you should have on your needle.

For instance, upon completing row 4, you should have 48 sts on your needle.

Hope this helps.


----------



## Jill2

peachy51 said:


> Those increases are the reason I frogged and have started over. I think whether they are truly invisible or not depends on the yarn you are using. The yarn I am using has great stitch definition, so I'm expecting they will show up more on mine than if I had used another yarn.


I agree that the yarn and color can make a difference in how the increase looks.


----------



## charlenekbenton

I am not a chart lover so this will be the 1st time using charts for me. I have looked the pattern over & have no idea what page 7 chart is, can someone help me?


----------



## Flybreit

Elegant Details - I too am wearing my yarn tinking and knitting. 

I finally counted how many stitches I should have at the end of the row and marked this on the pattern (just like Erica did on row 6). 

So far, so good.


----------



## questmiller

charlenekbenton said:


> I am not a chart lover so this will be the 1st time using charts for me. I have looked the pattern over & have no idea what page 7 chart is, can someone help me?


The page seven chart is a diagram showing where the cables cross. I was confused with it as well, but when you get to the section where you are doing the hip and bust shaping, it will make more sense. I used it a bit, but when I was at that part, the cable crossing spacing was fairly obvious to me. I mostly did it by look.


----------



## ElegantDetails

peachy51 said:


> You will have 109 stitches when you finish with Chart A ... there are a lot of increases in the Chart. For example, since I have started over, I am on Row 8 of the Chart and I only have 51 stitches right now. I think you just need to keep knitting.


Well that sure helps.... I may not have to completely frog this time. Where do we find the specifics on the ML?? I somehow missed the instructions on that. I originally thought it was a regular Make 1 left. It's very easy to miss something along the way. Do you know exactly how we look it up on YouTube? All I see are make 1s. Thanks for your help.


----------



## ElegantDetails

Thanks so much....you're right....I did do it backwards. I guess I will need to frog it again!!! I just love the fact that all we have to do is ask....and in no time at all we have an answer... how cool is that. So far you've already come to aid twice. We'll be BFFs by the time this is over!! Thanks so much



Jill2 said:


> I think you may have worked the first row of chart A backwards.
> 
> Starting at the right, follow the chart until you reach the left side of the red box.
> Now go back and knit the stitches within the red box 3 more times.
> 
> You have now knit the stitches within the red box a total of 4 times.
> 
> Now finish the row by working the stitches that are on the left side of the box, outside of the red box.
> 
> If you count only the white boxes within a row (count boxes within red box 4 times) that will tell you how many sts you should have on your needle.
> 
> For instance, upon completing row 4, you should have 48 sts on your needle.
> 
> Hope this helps.


)


----------



## peachy51

ElegantDetails said:


> Well that sure helps.... I may not have to completely frog this time. Where do we find the specifics on the ML?? I somehow missed the instructions on that. I originally thought it was a regular Make 1 left. It's very easy to miss something along the way. Do you know exactly how we look it up on YouTube? All I see are make 1s. Thanks for your help.


The ML and MR are actually left and right lifted increases. This video is pretty good at clearly showing how to do them:






I had never done them either so had to go looking for the how to


----------



## Jill2

peachy51 said:


> The ML and MR are actually left and right lifted increases. This video is pretty good at clearly showing how to do them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had never done them either so had to go looking for the how to


Great video! Thank you!


----------



## peachy51

Jill2 said:


> Great video! Thank you!


You're Welcome! I have a feeling I'm going to learn all kinds of new things with this sweater.

Short Rows: I have always done wrap and turn and hate them. I always have a hard time finding my wraps. Have watched the videos for German Short Rows and think they will be easier, but I have also discovered Japanese Short Rows and like the way they look. Means having to fiddle with pins, but it may be worth it for me.


----------



## Jill2

Craftsy also has a free class on short rows.....don't think they call them Japanese short rows but they also use those little markers that are like padlocks.
I ended up doing Cat Bordhi's method.....I'm OK with the way they look, but my yarn is pretty dark.....might not like them as well on a lighter color.
I've done the German short rows and they are great.


----------



## ElegantDetails

Peachy51 
I have a ? About the ML. Where in the instructions does Erica talk about that? I seem to have missed the distinction between the 2 types. Thanks



peachy51 said:


> According to Erica's instructions it is not a M1 left ... it is actually a lifted increase left leaning.
> 
> Here is a video for both the right leaning and left leaning:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of picking up the bar as for a M1, you actually knit into the row below for the increase.


----------



## peachy51

ElegantDetails said:


> Peachy51
> I have a ? About the ML. Where in the instructions does Erica talk about that? I seem to have missed the distinction between the 2 types. Thanks


Look at Chart A. It starts with doing ML on the first part of the chart and then on Row 17 is the first MR. She gives the direction for these two increases on the legend for the charts.


----------



## peachy51

Jill2 said:


> Craftsy also has a free class on short rows.....don't think they call them Japanese short rows but they also use those little markers that are like padlocks.
> I ended up doing Cat Bordhi's method.....I'm OK with the way they look, but my yarn is pretty dark.....might not like them as well on a lighter color.
> I've done the German short rows and they are great.


The Craftsy Class is a good class. I took it a long time ago and learned there to do the wrap and turns. Didn't finish watching all of it and maybe I should go back and watch the whole thing.


----------



## ElegantDetails

peachy51 said:


> Look at Chart A. It starts with doing ML on the first part of the chart and then on Row 17 is the first MR. She gives the direction for these two increases on the legend for the charts.


OMG......I can't believe I didn't see it there......I was thinking that was just cable info. Wrong again. Thanks


----------



## Erica Patberg

I think it looks lovely, and blocking will smooth out those increases. Before you rip it out, maybe knit a small test swatch of just the left increases and block it?

I always go back to my increases and decreases with a small dpn or darning needle and take a close look at the stitches, looking for any irregularities. Sometimes one leg of the stitch is a little longer than the other from the extra handling sts get in the increase (or decrease). Often a little judicious coaxing with the tip of a needle can make a big difference.

Also working increases and decreases on the very tips of your needles so that you don't stretch the stretches any more than necessary can help.

BTW, I put the increases in that spot to change the direction of the stockinette fabric. You'll see that it runs at a diagonal. You can certainly decide to put them at the edge, but then you'll have more of a gradual curve. Also nice. And it's your sweater. You have all the freedom to choose what you like best.



questmiller said:


> I'm almost thinking I should start all over. I don't think I like how the increases came out. What about doing the increases at the edges of the section?
> And another question is about the increases at the end of the hip and bust shaping. Do we just knit them stockinette?


----------



## questmiller

Erica Patberg said:


> I think it looks lovely, and blocking will smooth out those increases. Before you rip it out, maybe knit a small test swatch of just the left increases and block it?
> 
> I always go back to my increases and decreases with a small dpn or darning needle and take a close look at the stitches, looking for any irregularities. Sometimes one leg of the stitch is a little longer than the other from the extra handling sts get in the increase (or decrease). Often a little judicious coaxing with the tip of a needle can make a big difference.
> 
> Also working increases and decreases on the very tips of your needles so that you don't stretch the stretches any more than necessary can help.
> 
> BTW, I put the increases in that spot to change the direction of the stockinette fabric. You'll see that it runs at a diagonal. You can certainly decide to put them at the edge, but then you'll have more of a gradual curve. Also nice. And it's your sweater. You have all the freedom to choose what you like best.


Thanks for the tips, Erica. It turned out to be user error. I didn't lift the second stitch below for the ML. I knew I wouldn't be happy, so I ripped it all out and started all over. As I hit the bed at midnight, I'm back to row 44 and liking the look of the increases so much better.


----------



## sewlee

Wow! You guys are really busy bees. I enjoy your enthusiasm.


----------



## charlenekbenton

ERICA, my yarn is Zerda Alpaca from iceyarns.com content is 
30% alpaca-70% dralon.....yarn band reads to hand wash (i plan to dry clean) also reads no to ironing.....how would you recommend I block this?
Sleeves are now finished, getting ready to begin the body, yeah!!
I have not seen the pic of the back of the sweater, must have missed it's posting, could you post the back pic of sweater again please?


----------



## pinsandneedles

I am at the beg. of chart B., says to work 1 repeat of chart for the sz. I'm doing and then all sizes work 1 row, then begin right hip shaping.. I have the 109 sts. but the chart worked is for 99 sts. I'm just not seeing where I am reading this wrong, could some kind soul point me in the right direction... and thanks.


----------



## Erica Patberg

I think your best bet for blocking would be either wet blocking or (common in Holland where a wool sweater can take days to dry) the piece is pinned while dry to size, then covered with a damp cloth for about 15 min. The cloth is removed and the piece left to dry. As for the back...



charlenekbenton said:


> ERICA, my yarn is Zerda Alpaca from iceyarns.com content is
> 30% alpaca-70% dralon.....yarn band reads to hand wash (i plan to dry clean) also reads no to ironing.....how would you recommend I block this?
> Sleeves are now finished, getting ready to begin the body, yeah!!
> I have not seen the pic of the back of the sweater, must have missed it's posting, could you post the back pic of sweater again please?


----------



## Patchworkcat

Erica Patberg said:


> As for the back...


I'm guessing the reason for the mis-crossed cable in the center is so that the crossings match on the fronts. Right?

Jill


----------



## Erica Patberg

The extra sts are the sts for the stockinette band at the bottom of the sweater. Just knit them on the right side and purl them on the wrong side.



pinsandneedles said:


> I am at the beg. of chart B., says to work 1 repeat of chart for the sz. I'm doing and then all sizes work 1 row, then begin right hip shaping.. I have the 109 sts. but the chart worked is for 99 sts. I'm just not seeing where I am reading this wrong, could some kind soul point me in the right direction... and thanks.


----------



## Erica Patberg

At the center back the cables switch from crossing right over left to crossing left over right. I liked the "spine-like" effect of the switch in cable direction, but it's a style choice. You could also choose to twist all the cables the same direction.



Patchworkcat said:


> I'm guessing the reason for the mis-crossed cable in the center is so that the crossings match on the fronts. Right?
> 
> Jill


----------



## Jill2

pinsandneedles said:


> I am at the beg. of chart B., says to work 1 repeat of chart for the sz. I'm doing and then all sizes work 1 row, then begin right hip shaping.. I have the 109 sts. but the chart worked is for 99 sts. I'm just not seeing where I am reading this wrong, could some kind soul point me in the right direction... and thanks.


Hmm....this is an interesting question. 
I did not count my stitches when I reached this point....however when counting the sts on the chart, you are correct, there are only 99, so I'm thinking that is how many sts I had on my needle.

Erica???....you out there?


----------



## pinsandneedles

Thank you so much Erica, I had considered that but then thought I was just making things easy for myself.


----------



## Jill2

Erica Patberg said:


> The extra sts are the sts for the stockinette band at the bottom of the sweater. Just knit them on the right side and purl them on the wrong side.


There's the answer....Thanks Erica.


----------



## peachy51

Erica Patberg said:


> I think your best bet for blocking would be either wet blocking or (common in Holland where a wool sweater can take days to dry) the piece is pinned while dry to size, then covered with a damp cloth for about 15 min. The cloth is removed and the piece left to dry. As for the back...


I love the back and especially like the effect when the cables start the opposite twist.


----------



## charlenekbenton

Okay, I'm starting the 1st chart.....row one says to knit 3 then purl 2 then I come to dark gray boxes I am to ignore so do I jump over to stitches 12 & 13 which are knit stitches then purl next 2 stitches then jump over those next dark gray boxes? If this is correct then when I get to ML at end of row 1 I will then return to red box squares & repeat these til I end the row?
Thank you!


----------



## peachy51

charlenekbenton said:


> Okay, I'm starting the 1st chart.....row one says to knit 3 then purl 2 then I come to dark gray boxes I am to ignore so do I jump over to stitches 12 & 13 which are knit stitches then purl next 2 stitches then jump over those next dark gray boxes? If this is correct then when I get to ML at end of row 1 I will then return to red box squares & repeat these til I end the row?
> Thank you!


No, you will K3, P2, K2, P2, K2 (then see the red box around the stitches 4-23 -- you will work those 4 times). With what I have type so far, you have worked them once, you will need to work stitches 4-23 three more times and then go to the end.

Hope this makes sense.


----------



## pinsandneedles

On the beginning of the rt. hip shaping when dec. 1 st. every right side row until 4 sts. remain.. is that a total of 4 sts. remaining or is it 4 sts. remaining after the marker.Thanks for an answer.


----------



## beaz

Did I miss something, has the KAL started. What am I supposed to do?


----------



## peachy51

beaz said:


> Did I miss something, has the KAL started. What am I supposed to do?


Knit your sweater along with us and ask questions if you get stuck and answer questions when others get stuck and ... most importantly, HAVE FUN! :mrgreen:


----------



## Jessica-Jean

charlenekbenton said:


> ERICA, my yarn is Zerda Alpaca from iceyarns.com content is
> 30% alpaca-70% dralon.....yarn band reads to hand wash (i plan to dry clean) also reads no to ironing.....how would you recommend I block this??


Dralon is just another name for acrylic. I'd steer clear of dry cleaning it, but that's just me. 
http://www.dralon.com/en/dralon-worlds/fashion/


----------



## Kissnntell

i suffered w/vertigo for a couple of years, it getting worse all the time, then i was put on oxygen & it was immedately gone!! if that help any one
ALSO -- my fibromyalgia pains are gone!!



Erica Patberg said:


> I hope he's feeling better soon. I hear that most cases (as long as the patient has a healthy immune system) will resolve on its own. The treatment, if needed is a long (18 month) course of antibiotics which can have lots of unpleasant side effects. Encourage him to rest and not to drink or smoke if he does either of those. (BTW hubby is a lung Dr. and I asked him how he would treat if it were his patient). I wish your dh a speedy recovery.


----------



## questmiller




----------



## questmiller

pinsandneedles said:


> On the beginning of the rt. hip shaping when dec. 1 st. every right side row until 4 sts. remain.. is that a total of 4 sts. remaining or is it 4 sts. remaining after the marker.Thanks for an
> 
> I'm not completely sure, but I went down to a total of 4 sts (that meant that I had to remove the stitch marker). I'm interested I. This answer, as well. I just put in a lifeline and kept on knitting.


----------



## njbetsy

Has Erica posted the change to the pattern yet? I might have missed it.


----------



## Knit Girl

Im working my gauage, can't wait to get started.


----------



## gdhavens

It said in the pattern down to 4 stitches for the left hand stockinette border, so I went down until there were 4 knit stitches after the purl 2 "ditch". I think that is what it was calling for. 

Isn't this a fun pattern? I hope those that have not started yet don't get discouraged. Just join in as you can. And, for those of you that are afraid of charts, please don't be. Erica's charts are very well written, and there are a lot of people here that can guide you.

If in doubt, post a question. There are several on here already knitting the sweater that can give us good advise.


----------



## nintendomo

Thanks Ciyona!!! I hope this will get me back to receiving notifications. I still get the old one, just not this new one!


----------



## Jessica-Jean

njbetsy said:


> Has Erica posted the change to the pattern yet? I might have missed it.


She corrected the pdf on her website. You just have to download it again and delete the first one. http://www.cogknits.com/


----------



## Angelsmom1

Hi Cyona, I am following along. Hoping to learn how to do this sweater. I't a beautiful poece. I guess Erica gets he credit.


----------



## Erica Patberg

You should decrease 1 st every RS row until 4 sts rem to the left of the last purl 2. Your question gave me a good idea about how to make that clearer in the pattern. There will be 2 knit sts to the left of the marker as well as 2 knit sts to the right of the marker.



questmiller said:


> pinsandneedles said:
> 
> 
> 
> On the beginning of the rt. hip shaping when dec. 1 st. every right side row until 4 sts. remain.. is that a total of 4 sts. remaining or is it 4 sts. remaining after the marker.Thanks for an
> 
> I'm not completely sure, but I went down to a total of 4 sts (that meant that I had to remove the stitch marker). I'm interested I. This answer, as well. I just put in a lifeline and kept on knitting.
Click to expand...


----------



## mom2grif

Kissnntell said:


> i suffered w/vertigo for a couple of years, it getting worse all the time, then i was put on oxygen & it was immedately gone!! if that help any one
> ALSO -- my fibromyalgia pains are gone!!


I've suffered with cluster headaches for nearly 30 years. Pure oxygen has been the only thing that gives me any relief if I can get to it fast enough. Amazing.


----------



## Carolinesol

Finished my sleeves last night and started body did to row 12 and must say for someone who was very worried about doing a chart pattern (not done one before) I was pleasantly surprised.


----------



## Caesarteaser

Okay, I'm reading through the pattern and cannot find the blocking dimensions of the sweater. On page 6 there are measurements for the sleeves but the body numbers are not filled in. Has anybody found them somewhere else?


----------



## beaz

How do you create multiple bookmarks within this forum? Mine overwrite each other and I end up with only one even though the descriptions are different.


----------



## Carole-Jayne

Erica Patberg said:


> You should decrease 1 st every RS row until 4 sts rem to the left of the last purl 2. Your question gave me a good idea about how to make that clearer in the pattern. There will be 2 knit sts to the left of the marker as well as 2 knit sts to the right of the marker.


Erica: are you planning on posting an addedum or a rewrite or something that we can add to the pattern for clarity?
Thanks
cj


----------



## beaz

Somewhere someone asked the question about knitting the sleeves in the round and I do not remember any responses. Is anyone doing this? I found an explanation of how to and why at http://www.morehousefarm.com/Knitting/Tips/Round/


----------



## mom2grif

I did, but Erica's response was that it is easier to sew the set in sleeve with it flat. But other than that no reason not to.


----------



## janwalla

Jill2 said:


> Your sweater is looking beautiful.
> 
> Before you go any further, take a look at the instructions for working chart B
> It reads 'working the stitches in the pattern repeat box a multiple of 4 times'
> After repeating those 4 times, there is one additional cable on chart B.
> This tells me that there should be a total of 5 cables across the back, just like on the front.
> So, after casting on the 19 sts for the back of the armhole, I added that 5th cable back into the pattern.
> 
> What do you think, do you read it that way too?


Jill 2 your yarn is lovely! Oh and so is your work!! is it a chenille type it looks so soft and velvety!!


----------



## ElegantDetails

Jill I love your sweater....I'm not as far as you are yet but definitely moving right along now that you helped me over the humps!! You raise a good questions about that 5th cable....has there been ay official word on that?



janwalla said:


> Jill 2 your yarn is lovely! Oh and so is your work!! is it a chenille type it looks so soft and velvety!!


----------



## Jill2

Thank you!

I am pleasantly surprised that the cables are showing up so well despite the dark color.


----------



## Kissnntell

that's good to know. i've done the sleeves but havent started the body yet (been sick in bed) but am using dark gray (wont show the dirt lol especially on the sleeves, i'm a messy kid!!)



Jill2 said:


> Thank you!
> 
> I am pleasantly surprised that the cables are showing up so well despite the dark color.


----------



## Patchworkcat

My yarn from Webs arrived today! Now to knit a swatch and attempt to get, at least, close to gauge. I knit so tightly, I think I'd better start with a size 7 needle and see how that goes. For some reason, (probably because I'm primarily a sock knitter), needles much larger than that seem too awkward in my hands. Weird, since I have arthritis, it would seem larger needles would be easier, but they're definitely not. 

Jill


----------



## pinsandneedles

Erica Patberg said:


> You should decrease 1 st every RS row until 4 sts rem to the left of the last purl 2. Your question gave me a good idea about how to make that clearer in the pattern. There will be 2 knit sts to the left of the marker as well as 2 knit sts to the right of the marker.


Thanks so much, appreciate your time.


----------



## Carole-Jayne

This was posted on the "original" thread

cjones45 wrote:
I do recognize this pattern and I believe I have it, but give me a week to look! I am starting 3 classes in college so I need some time! I will get back to you!

CJB


Wouldn't that be unbelievable after all this time???????
cj


----------



## Erica Patberg

Yes. That's exactly right.


Jill2 said:


> Your sweater is looking beautiful.
> 
> Before you go any further, take a look at the instructions for working chart B
> It reads 'working the stitches in the pattern repeat box a multiple of 4 times'
> After repeating those 4 times, there is one additional cable on chart B.
> This tells me that there should be a total of 5 cables across the back, just like on the front.
> So, after casting on the 19 sts for the back of the armhole, I added that 5th cable back into the pattern.
> 
> What do you think, do you read it that way too?


----------



## charlenekbenton

Yea, Jill....so glad u got your yarn...how's it going?


----------



## Patchworkcat

charlenekbenton said:


> Yea, Jill....so glad u got your yarn...how's it going?


I'm swatching. But, it's coming out like I thought ... too many stitches per inch. I'm using size 7's and even they feel huge in my hands. If I go any bigger, it will just be too uncomfortable to knit. Pattern gauge is 4.25 stitches per inch and I'm getting 5 stitches per inch. Not sure what to do now. SO frustrated after being so excited at finding a sweater I really, really want to knit, waiting for the yarn to arrive and now it was all a waste. <darn>

Jill


----------



## Jill2

Patchworkcat said:


> I'm swatching. But, it's coming out like I thought ... too many stitches per inch. I'm using size 7's and even they feel huge in my hands. If I go any bigger, it will just be too uncomfortable to knit. Pattern gauge is 4.25 stitches per inch and I'm getting 5 stitches per inch. Not sure what to do now. SO frustrated after being so excited at finding a sweater I really, really want to knit, waiting for the yarn to arrive and now it was all a waste. <darn>
> 
> Jill


What if you stick with your 7's and make a larger sized sweater?


----------



## Carole-Jayne

Patchworkcat said:


> I'm swatching. But, it's coming out like I thought ... too many stitches per inch. I'm using size 7's and even they feel huge in my hands. If I go any bigger, it will just be too uncomfortable to knit. Pattern gauge is 4.25 stitches per inch and I'm getting 5 stitches per inch. Not sure what to do now. SO frustrated after being so excited at finding a sweater I really, really want to knit, waiting for the yarn to arrive and now it was all a waste. <darn>
> 
> Jill


Oh, Jill - R.E.L.A.X. - not the end of the world - just a temporary setback, nothing more. I'll help you if I can ...

First thing to consider is that the cast-on, the needles and each of the two sides affect your gauge. So *I* always knit about 6" x 6" and measure a 4" square in the middle of it. that way I know it is ""true"" -- with me so far?

So, if the pattern says 4.5 sts to the inch and you are getting 5 then YOUR stitchs are TOO BIG - you have MORE sts. than you want. So therefore you need to go DOWN a needle size. That's all. Relax and try it over a bigger square using a smaller needle and see how it goes. Like many thing sin life - the preparation is key, so take your time, we are all here for you!
cj


----------



## Jill2

CaROLE-JAYNE said:


> Oh, Jill - R.E.L.A.X. - not the end of the world - just a temporary setback, nothing more. I'll help you if I can ...
> 
> First thing to consider is that the cast-on, the needles and each of the two sides affect your gauge. So *I* always knit about 6" x 6" and measure a 4" square in the middle of it. that way I know it is ""true"" -- with me so far?
> 
> So, if the pattern says 4.5 sts to the inch and you are getting 5 then YOUR stitchs are TOO BIG - you have MORE sts. than you want. So therefore you need to go DOWN a needle size. That's all. Relax and try it over a bigger square using a smaller needle and see how it goes. Like many thing sin life - the preparation is key, so take your time, we are all here for you!
> cj


If the pattern calls for a gauge of 4.5 sts per inch, and Jill is getting 5... Aren't her stitches too small? Think she needs to go up a size to get less sts per inch.


----------



## Carole-Jayne

Jill2 said:


> If the pattern calls for a gauge of 4.5 sts per inch, and Jill is getting 5... Aren't her stitches too small? Think she needs to go up a size to get less sts per inch.


YOU are RIGHT and *I* am WRONG - so sorry, hate to have mixed you up like that! thank you Jill2 for catching it!
atb
cj


----------



## Jill2

Totally understandable.....I had to really stop and thnk about it and even then I wasn't totally sure.


----------



## Carole-Jayne

Jill2 said:


> Totally understandable.....I had to really stop and thnk about it and even then I wasn't totally sure.


Funy - I was trying so hard to help and instill confidence, and I blew it & I really am sorry!

But I still do knit approx 6" square and line up and measure 4" x 4" - that's bits true <g>
cj


----------



## Patchworkcat

I appreciate the encouragement. But, if I'm going to do this sweater, it will have to be knit on size 7 or smaller needles. If I knit the largest size, I wonder if it will fit properly on a 45" inch bust. Hmmmm. But, do I want to take that chance ... that's a lot of knitting for a very slow knitter. 

Jill


----------



## Jill2

Patchworkcat said:


> I appreciate the encouragement. But, if I'm going to do this sweater, it will have to be knit on size 7 or smaller needles. If I knit the largest size, I wonder if it will fit properly on a 45" inch bust. Hmmmm. But, do I want to take that chance ... that's a lot of knitting for a very slow knitter.
> 
> Jill[/
> 
> i think you'll be dealing with rows per inch since the sweater is knit crosswise...but then seems like you would have to cast on more stitches initially or it's going to be too short.....hmmmm....maybe making a larger size is a bad idea.
> 
> We need Erica to do that math.


----------



## Patchworkcat

Sounds like this is just going to be too complicated. Math and I are *not* on friendly terms. <bummer>

Jill


----------



## charlenekbenton

Please do not give up....think how fantastic u will feel when u accomplish this new challenge....so it's a bit uncomfortable, after awhile it will seem better....remember, I didn't want to EVER knit on "toothpicks" but my desire to master knitting socks encouraged me, then I "FROGGED" that darn #*+% sock 15 times till I finally got it & you KNOW the thrill I got mastering that! You've spent $$$ on beautiful yarn so please persevere....I have "old Arthur" who loves to make my thumb joints scream when I use the larger needles but I will not give in....my will is stronger!! Send Erica a PM & see what she suggests she will know how to best help you....I know you can do it!!


----------



## Patchworkcat

charlenekbenton said:


> Please do not give up....think how fantastic u will feel when u accomplish this new challenge....so it's a bit uncomfortable, after awhile it will seem better....remember, I didn't want to EVER knit on "toothpicks" but my desire to master knitting socks encouraged me, then I "FROGGED" that darn #*+% sock 15 times till I finally got it & you KNOW the thrill I got mastering that! You've spent $$$ on beautiful yarn so please persevere....I have "old Arthur" who loves to make my thumb joints scream when I use the larger needles but I will not give in....my will is stronger!! Send Erica a PM & see what she suggests she will know how to best help you....I know you can do it!!


Now, I didn't say I was giving up ... just need to think it through and I think slowly. <lol> I spent $$ on this yarn that we most definitely couldn't really afford to spend frivolously so the guilt alone will keep me working on how to do this. It's just going to take me a bit longer to get it figured out and I'll need to ask Erica for help, I'm sure.

Jill


----------



## kerio

ok guys... can you go back to the 1st and 2nd row of chart A for a sec for me??? If I am increasing a stitch with the ML on line 1 where is it on line 2 of the chart?? I keep redoing it but I am convincing myself that I have 1 too many sts. going onto line 2
help please and yes this is my 1st chart <gasp>  
I really hope this isn't the dumbest question of the day... how embarrassing


----------



## peachy51

kerio said:


> ok guys... can you go back to the 1st and 2nd row of chart A for a sec for me??? If I am increasing a stitch with the ML on line 1 where is it on line 2 of the chart?? I keep redoing it but I am convincing myself that I have 1 too many sts. going onto line 2
> help please and yes this is my 1st chart <gasp>
> I really hope this isn't the dumbest question of the day... how embarrassing


The box for the increase is actually on Row 1 of the chart. All the increases have the box added on the row of the increase.

After you have done the final purl 2 at the end of row 1 of the chart you should have 3 stitches on your left needle. You will knit 2, place your marker and then do the ML .


----------



## charlenekbenton

Let's see if I can help you....your last 5 stitches are on your left needle....the.chart reads: p2, k2,ML,k1 so by making ML you have increased by 1 stitch (3 knitted stitches become 4)...next you move up to row 2 reading it left to right your 1st 4 stitches are purled then k2 & continue the row...you will not increase until row 4 shown on chart symbol that looks like a loop or what I use to put on computer to designate a toilet when I was designing houses, LOL...hope this helped.


----------



## charlenekbenton

Jill...glad to hear you are not giving up...sorry I thot differently.


----------



## Patchworkcat

charlenekbenton said:


> Jill...glad to hear you are not giving up...sorry I thot differently.


Just keep encouraging me. <lol> We agreed to do this together from the very beginning. I'm just going to cast on and see what happens. I'm a process knitter so it'll be fun no matter how it turns out. Of course, it'll be even more fun if it fits. 

Jill


----------



## charlenekbenton

You got it....anytime u need me im here!!


----------



## catlover1960

My yarn was back ordered and do not know when it will arrive. I showed the pattern to my niece (16 yr old) this weekend and she also wants this sweater. I could not stand it any longer and found an inexpensive, easy care, but nice yarn to work with for her. I look at it this way. I will use her sweater as practice for the one for me. Hopefully I will work through all issues before starting my sweater. Yea, I will be joining the party soon. I must finish hubby's socks first.


----------



## kerio

thanks peachy and charlene!! I'm still tryin!!


----------



## peachy51

Ok, I'm stuck with a question now and want to make sure I understand what's coming next.

After each bust short row section A, B, C & D am I to work the Right Hip Shaping paragraph after each of those bust sections?


----------



## Jill2

Yep...you got it!

Have fun!


----------



## lulu11

I am just starting is this a k2p2 rib or a moss stitches


----------



## peachy51

Jill2 said:


> Yep...you got it!
> 
> Have fun!


Thank you, Jill!



lulu11 said:


> I am just starting is this a k2p2 rib or a moss stitches


Yes, it starts out as a 2x2 rib.


----------



## peachy51

Erica ---

On the bit about making the stockinette section a little longer --

If I cast on 12 stitches at the end of row 3 instead of the suggested 7 that would be 5 additional stitches in that section.

So, would that mean that when I am doing the decreases that start with the Right Hip Shaping that I should decrease until I have 9 stitches instead of the suggested 4, in order to leave those 5 stitches that I added?


----------



## elilashley

I cannot get past row 5 and 6 on the Set up rows. I have ripped 5 times this afternoon. Row 4 has 44 sts. Row 5 doesn't bring me to the end of the row and by row 6 I have 48 sts. WHAT AM I DOING????? My yarn is in shreds up to that point!
eli lashley


----------



## peachy51

elilashley said:


> I cannot get past row 5 and 6 on the Set up rows. I have ripped 5 times this afternoon. Row 4 has 44 sts. Row 5 doesn't bring me to the end of the row and by row 6 I have 48 sts. WHAT AM I DOING????? My yarn is in shreds up to that point!
> eli lashley


Row 5:

K3 = 3
P2, K2 = 4 x2 = 8
P2, LT, P2, K2 = 8 x3 = 24
P2, K2, P2, K3 = 9
Equal 44 stitches


----------



## RobbiD

Patchworkcat said:


> Just keep encouraging me. <lol> We agreed to do this together from the very beginning. I'm just going to cast on and see what happens. I'm a process knitter so it'll be fun no matter how it turns out. Of course, it'll be even more fun if it fits.
> 
> Jill


As I used to say years ago, "Just keep on truckin'." I am sure there is a solution to your dilemma. I think I have, somewhere, a worksheet that tells you how to adjust a pattern for different gauges so that you will end up with the same results as the original pattern. I'll be happy to look for it if you think it may be of help. I'm still waiting on my yarn, so can't even swatch yet (sigh).


----------



## peachy51

A few notes on this project:

Folks, the yarn makes all the difference in the world!

After completing the pattern all the way to the bust increases, I have aborted and started over.

I decided that the cotton blend yarn I wanted to make the sweater out of just did not want to be this sweater. The cotton doesn't have the stretch to have the memory it needed to make the lifted increases look nice. It left holes that I just could not stand.

So I went digging through my stash and the only yarn I had enough of and was a color that I would wear was 10 skeins of some Bernat Waverly acrylic. Wouldn't have been my first choice, but I have to say now that I am halfway through Chart A, it is making up to be a very pretty piece. I'm going to be much happier with it than I would have ever been with the other yarn.

On the pattern:

It is wonderfully written! I was intimidated by the charts as I usually avoid them like the plague ... but Erica has written her charts beautifully and I have not had a problem with them at all.

The one question I asked earlier regarding the hip shaping and was graciously answered by Jill2, turned out to be exactly the way the pattern is written (I was just making sure I was comprehending it correctly).

So I guess the reason for this post is to remind those who are just starting to not get discouraged ... you may have to try a different yarn ... and the pattern and charts are so well written, we just have to trust them and knit on :thumbup:


----------



## flyssie

peachy51 said:


> A few notes on this project:
> 
> Folks, the yarn makes all the difference in the world!
> 
> After completing the pattern all the way to the bust increases, I have aborted and started over.
> 
> I decided that the cotton blend yarn I wanted to make the sweater out of just did not want to be this sweater. The cotton doesn't have the stretch to have the memory it needed to make the lifted increases look nice. It left holes that I just could not stand.
> 
> So I went digging through my stash and the only yarn I had enough of and was a color that I would wear was 10 skeins of some Bernat Waverly acrylic. Wouldn't have been my first choice, but I have to say now that I am halfway through Chart A, it is making up to be a very pretty piece. I'm going to be much happier with it than I would have ever been with the other yarn.
> 
> On the pattern:
> 
> It is wonderfully written! I was intimidated by the charts as I usually avoid them like the plague ... but Erica has written her charts beautifully and I have not had a problem with them at all.
> 
> The one question I asked earlier regarding the hip shaping and was graciously answered by Jill2, turned out to be exactly the way the pattern is written (I was just making sure I was comprehending it correctly).
> 
> So I guess the reason for this post is to remind those who are just starting to not get discouraged ... you may have to try a different yarn ... and the pattern and charts are so well written, we just have to trust them and knit on :thumbup:


Sounds like you are now going like a rocket !! after the false start. I was going to use a cotton mix as it is too hot here for wool or acrylic. But now not sure. Erica has done a wonderful job for you to be able to follow it so easily even with a check up along the way.
Have you got a picture to show us your work
Well done


----------



## peachy51

flyssie said:


> Sounds like you are now going like a rocket !! after the false start. I was going to use a cotton mix as it is too hot here for wool or acrylic. But now not sure. Erica has done a wonderful job for you to be able to follow it so easily even with a check up along the way.
> Have you got a picture to show us your work
> Well done


Flyssie, it's warm here too a lot of the time, and that is why I thought the cotton blend would be better. I was using a 75% cotton/25% acrylic blend. But it looked horrible to me.

The yellow is the cotton blend and you can see what the lifted increases look like. Plus the yarn was rated worsted but isn't as thick as the Bernat Waverly which is the blue. The blue shows halfway through Chart A.

If you want to use cotton, I would suggest a good swatch and make some of the lifted increases in your swatch and see what they look like. Be sure to go several rows after the increase because they don't show up immediately.


----------



## Erica Patberg

Yes. That's exactly right. And just follow the pattern as written.

You can also decrease down to 4 if you prefer BUT make a note on the your pattern to remind you of exactly which row you finish you decreases. In order to make the cardi symmetrical you'd also have to start your increases for the other side earlier. If you choose this option, mark on which row you'd need to START the increases for the other side as soon as you finish the decreases.  Should be 10 rows earlier than in the directions (1 increase every other row for 5 rows....)



peachy51 said:


> Erica ---
> 
> On the bit about making the stockinette section a little longer --
> 
> If I cast on 12 stitches at the end of row 3 instead of the suggested 7 that would be 5 additional stitches in that section.
> 
> So, would that mean that when I am doing the decreases that start with the Right Hip Shaping that I should decrease until I have 9 stitches instead of the suggested 4, in order to leave those 5 stitches that I added?


----------



## peachy51

Thanks Erica. I started one with the additional stitches, but changed my mind.

LOL ... I think I have started over enough times to have the first part of this pattern memorized! :mrgreen:


----------



## Erica Patberg

Ok. At your gauge of 5 sts per inch, your cardi will turn out 15% smaller than if you were knitting at 4.25 sts per inch. No worries. Check your row gauge - as that's important. It will determine the bust measurement for the sweater.

As for the width Not to worry. I posted a while back this comment about a modification that folks could consider:

"One modification that you might want to consider, is the width of the lower stockinette portion of the cardigan front. IF you do want to make this wider FIRST determine how wide you'd like to make it, and how many stitches this would be. TIP: multiply the extra width in inches X 4.25 and round to the nearest whole number. For example, The bottom stockinette border is aprox. 2 1/2 inches. IF I'd rather this were 4 1/2 inches than I'd take the difference (2 inches) and plug it in... 2 X 4.25=8.5. Rounding brings me to 9.

SECOND: When following the Set Up Rows add your extra sts number (in our example this is 9) to the number of sts to cast on in Row 3. 7 + 9 = 16, so I'd cast on 16 sts. These extra sts are knitted on the right and purled on the wrong side, and just follow the rest of the directions as written. "

With your current gauge, you should add about 10 sts to the cast on in row 3. And that should give you enough length to compensate for your gauge.

If I were you, I'd pick out your absolutely favorite fitting sweater. Lay it out flat, and as your project progresses, lay your work on top, and check the shaping often. You can determine how many more repeats you'll need across the back, etc.



Patchworkcat said:


> I'm swatching. But, it's coming out like I thought ... too many stitches per inch. I'm using size 7's and even they feel huge in my hands. If I go any bigger, it will just be too uncomfortable to knit. Pattern gauge is 4.25 stitches per inch and I'm getting 5 stitches per inch. Not sure what to do now. SO frustrated after being so excited at finding a sweater I really, really want to knit, waiting for the yarn to arrive and now it was all a waste. <darn>
> 
> Jill


----------



## flyssie

Peachy
Thanks for pictures and replies - the blue one is gorgeous!
I will swatch for sure
Cheers :wink:


----------



## Patchworkcat

Erica Patberg said:


> Ok. At your gauge of 5 sts per inch, your cardi will turn out 15% smaller than if you were knitting at 4.25 sts per inch. No worries. Check your row gauge - as that's important. It will determine the bust measurement for the sweater.
> 
> As for the width Not to worry. I posted a while back this comment about a modification that folks could consider:
> 
> "One modification that you might want to consider, is the width of the lower stockinette portion of the cardigan front. IF you do want to make this wider FIRST determine how wide you'd like to make it, and how many stitches this would be. TIP: multiply the extra width in inches X 4.25 and round to the nearest whole number. For example, The bottom stockinette border is aprox. 2 1/2 inches. IF I'd rather this were 4 1/2 inches than I'd take the difference (2 inches) and plug it in... 2 X 4.25=8.5. Rounding brings me to 9.
> 
> SECOND: When following the Set Up Rows add your extra sts number (in our example this is 9) to the number of sts to cast on in Row 3. 7 + 9 = 16, so I'd cast on 16 sts. These extra sts are knitted on the right and purled on the wrong side, and just follow the rest of the directions as written. "
> 
> With your current gauge, you should add about 10 sts to the cast on in row 3. And that should give you enough length to compensate for your gauge.
> 
> If I were you, I'd pick out your absolutely favorite fitting sweater. Lay it out flat, and as your project progresses, lay your work on top, and check the shaping often. You can determine how many more repeats you'll need across the back, etc.


Thanks, Erica! I'm a front-zip sweatshirt jacket kinda girl (old lady), so I'll have to "wing it" on the measurements. But, I have faith that this *will* be do-able for me. I love, love, love this sweater too much to just give up. So, lots of measuring of me and my knitting progress are in my immediate future. I'm sure you'll be hearing a lot from me (promise: no whining, but can't guarantee no whimpering) very soon. I plan to cast on and dive in later today.

BTW, when I ordered my yarn from Webs, I left them a note giving them your website and explaining about the sweater I was planning to knit. Hope they stopped by and took a look.

Jill


----------



## gdhavens

Just a note for those that are trying this sweater and are having problems starting:

This pattern is doable for anyone. Very well written. Take it one row at a time, check your numbers and don't second guess the pattern.

When you first start the it says "All sizes, cast on 22 sts." Well, me having a senior moment or dyslexia, I combined the "O" from cast on with the "22" sts and came up with 20 sts., so of course I wasn't getting the right pattern. Duh!!! So, after I re-read the pattern 2 or 3 times, I managed to cast on 22 sts and it worked out fine. At this point, I was getting a 2 x 2 rib pattern. Because you are casting on at the end of the first 2 set up rows in multiples of 4 sts, the pattern will remain a 2 x 2 rib. When you do the cast on 7 sts at the end of set up rows 3 and 4, the pattern as written will keep you in a 2 x 2 rib with odd numbers at the ends.

Set up row 5 will be the first cable twist (called a LT in the pattern and done on only 2 sts), and will appear in the 2nd, 3rd and 4th cable area. The 1st and 5th haven't twisted yet, they will twist in the 3rd row of the chart.

The chart is worked on the number of stitches specified until the increase rows. The increase is shown by the "step" in the picture of the chart and already accounted for by this picture.

I don't know if this helps anyone, but I am betting there are some out there that are trying to make this sweater and feel too overwhelmed and stupid to do it and afraid to post questions. Please, give it a try. Message me if you have problems. I am not an expert, but I will help where I can.


----------



## joani13

Is there a photo of Erica's completed sweater? the only one I see is the original magazine photo and Erica's in-progress photos. just curious as to how the completed sweater looks


----------



## Patchworkcat

joani13 said:


> Is there a photo of Erica's completed sweater? the only one I see is the original magazine photo and Erica's in-progress photos. just curious as to how the completed sweater looks


Erica posted a photo of the back of her sweater earlier in this thread (Page 10), but not one of the front.

Jill


----------



## Oh Donna

well, Hi everybody--
I'm still stuck on picking out my yarn!
Is there any reason that I shouldn't use my handspun?
But now here's where I complicate it.....
I have some gorgeous single ply wool "creamsicle" that I'm hoping I can ply with a matching color rayon thin slub, to get into the vacinity of worsted weight.
I washed a 6 inch sample of each, to see if there would be a shrinkage difference...I'm thinking to be safe, I should wind the rayon off the cone into a skein and wash both separately before I ply them.......yes?
I am going to have to check the guage, but assuming that works, my next problem is....
I only have about 1000 yards of the creamsicle. My size calls for 1320 yards. How many yards long might the i-cord (and sleeve cuffs) take up---could I do it as a contrasting color of something else, thereby having enough creamsicle for the main sweater?
This is probably ridiculous, but I have so much yarn, and so much handspun that it really is awful to let it sit and go out and buy more...
This pattern is already out of my league without the yarn questions, but the stubbornness I have to try to get this yarn to work, may help carry me over into the construction itself.....
Anyone with handspinng expertise, can you advise me?
(By the way, I spent half the morning figuring out how to get the pattern into my I-pad and the Knit Companion app, which I had downloaded but hadn't used yet....another learning curve.) Thank you, Friends.


----------



## Carolinesol

I thought I was doing well !!!! Finished chart A and started on page 3 I understand the dec until 4 sts remain BUT do you do the right hip shaping at the same time and when do you start the Bust shaping short rows and so on? Do you finish one paragraph before starting the next one? SORRY.


----------



## Needleme

Hooray! I have made it to Row 5 of Chart A! All seems to be well. I am going to take a break now because I don't want to mess up in my exuberance.


----------



## lulu11

gdhavens said:


> Just a note for those that are trying this sweater and are having problems starting:
> 
> This pattern is doable for anyone. Very well written. Take it one row at a time, check your numbers and don't second guess the pattern.
> 
> When you first start the it says "All sizes, cast on 22 sts." Well, me having a senior moment or dyslexia, I combined the "O" from cast on with the "22" sts and came up with 20 sts., so of course I wasn't getting the right pattern. Duh!!! So, after I re-read the pattern 2 or 3 times, I managed to cast on 22 sts and it worked out fine. At this point, I was getting a 2 x 2 rib pattern. Because you are casting on at the end of the first 2 set up rows in multiples of 4 sts, the pattern will remain a 2 x 2 rib. When you do the cast on 7 sts at the end of set up rows 3 and 4, the pattern as written will keep you in a 2 x 2 rib with odd numbers at the ends.
> 
> Set up row 5 will be the first cable twist (called a LT in the pattern and done on only 2 sts), and will appear in the 2nd, 3rd and 4th cable area. The 1st and 5th haven't twisted yet, they will twist in the 3rd row of the chart.
> 
> The chart is worked on the number of stitches specified until the increase rows. The increase is shown by the "step" in the picture of the chart and already accounted for by this picture.
> 
> I don't know if this helps anyone, but I am betting there are some out there that are trying to make this sweater and feel too overwhelmed and stupid to do it and afraid to post questions. Please, give it a try. Message me if you have problems. I am not an expert, but I will help where I can.


i did the same with the 22 to 20 thats why i asked if it is a rib or moss because the first time it came out as a moss and that did not look right, but i am on track again


----------



## Carolinesol

Can someone please tell me if my shape looks ok. Never done anything like this before !


----------



## janwalla

Patchworkcat said:


> I appreciate the encouragement. But, if I'm going to do this sweater, it will have to be knit on size 7 or smaller needles. If I knit the largest size, I wonder if it will fit properly on a 45" inch bust. Hmmmm. But, do I want to take that chance ... that's a lot of knitting for a very slow knitter.
> 
> Jill


I would go down a size if you are getting too many stitches per inch. Over 4" it would be over 11 stitches over the width of the sweater so it would make it wider than stated. Anyway this is something you could try

If you are ok at maths ( Im not) a KP member called Hazel posted this, which may help, Because with that method you are able to use any yarn for any pattern at all.

""Knit a swatch in the size needle that gives you the kind of fabric you like. Doesn't matter if your needle size is the same as that in the pattern. Usually, knitting 20 rows of 20 stitches each should be enough.

Now, measure how many stitches per inch you get. Let's say you got 4 stitches per inch. Now divide that by the number of stitches given in the gauge in the pattern. Let's say that's 8 stitches.

So, you've got 4 stitches divided by 8 stitches, which gives you 0.5. This is called your "conversion factor." Multiply all numbers in the pattern by this conversion factor, and you'll be fine.

So, if the pattern tells you to cast on 100 stitches, multiply that by 0.5. That comes to 50 stitches that you cast on.""

Hope the above helps! you could always save and keep it. If it works. I haven't tried it, cos me and maths don't mix!! :thumbup: :lol:


----------



## Jill2

oops...


----------



## Jill2

Carolinesol said:


> Can someone please tell me if my shape looks ok. Never done anything like this before !


It looks perfect....beautiful knitting!!


----------



## elilashley

on row 5 set-up my problem is the (p2,LT,p2, k2). I don't understand the LT. I thought it was the p/up of the 2nd 
stitch from the right hand needle. What does LT mean?
eli lashley


----------



## janwalla

I'm procrastinating too much!! I must start this. I'm rushing and trying to finish my Surprise jacket before I start but cant knit quick enough!! I think I'm a bit daunted with the charts but as everyone is saying they are easy I've no excuse! I must I must I must, I will I will I will. I am going to start tonight! There Ive said it! Now Ill have to do it!! lol


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## Carolinesol

Elilashly... I read it as left twist so it's the start of the cable. Knit into second st then into first st. That's how I did it and it looks ok I think.


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## questmiller

OhDonna wrote:
By the way, I spent half the morning figuring out how to get the pattern into my I-pad and the Knit Companion app, which I had downloaded but hadn't used yet....another learning curve.) Thank you, Friends.[/quote]

If you need help with the Knitcompanion app, I may be able to help. I've become fairly comfortable with it. Let me know...


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## Patchworkcat

Janwalla, thank you! Math of any kind and I absolutely do not understand each other. This formula should of enormous help here and with other patterns, since I can almost never match any other designer's gauge.

Jill


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## Needleme

I think it looks absolutely lovely!


----------



## toast

What size do I knit? To fit bust size 34,36,38 etc. How much ease is in the pattern? I am making gauge but since DD's bust is 35 inches - do I knit a 34 or a 36


----------



## Patchworkcat

toast said:


> What size do I knit? To fit bust size 34,36,38 etc. How much ease is in the pattern? I am making gauge but since DD's bust is 35 inches - do I knit a 34 or a 36


I think Erica answered a question like this earlier in this thread by saying the sweater had one to one and a half inches of positive ease built in. But, you should read back through to make sure of my memory.

Jill


----------



## Jill2

toast said:


> What size do I knit? To fit bust size 34,36,38 etc. How much ease is in the pattern? I am making gauge but since DD's bust is 35 inches - do I knit a 34 or a 36


Erica posted the answer to this on her website

http://www.cogknits.com/

I had asker her what size I should make with a 38" bust.
She answered saying to make a 38.... Like Jill said, it already has 1-1/2" of positive ease. If you desire a bit more room than that go up a size.


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## Oh Donna

questmiller, you said, "If you need help with the Knitcompanion app, I may be able to help. I've become fairly comfortable with it. Let me know..."
Wow...thank you! Do you have any recommendations on how to break the pattern down, or what features are particularily useful?
I had downloaded this app, but hadn't yet spent any time with it. On this thread, you or someone mentioned being able to load this pattern into it, fiddle with it, and get "rows highlighted" or some such.
So far this morning I managed to get each section, eg sleeves, right hip shaping, etc each onto a separate "page" isolated or with the appropriate chart...I put the directions for "right hip shaping" again on the same page after each of those multiple sections that called for it, but that's as far as I got. (OOH, Erica, is this ok? Hopefully not an infringement of some sort)
Is there some way to mark or "tic off" rows or stitches as you get them done? To get it to come back to where you left off when you come back to it, after DH has swiped it for a reading session?
We make maple syrup at our sugar house this time of year---I will be stuck (not stuck--I love it there)--alone at the cabin with the i-pad while hubby is busy boiling, so I'll spend some time with it and come back with better questions.
This program looks absolutely amazing--to others out there, the basic app was .99 I think, with several very nice free patterns. Once you want to import your own patterns in, then it costs $15.99--next best deal of the day after Erica's bestest deal of all!


----------



## peachy51

Carolinesol said:


> I thought I was doing well !!!! Finished chart A and started on page 3 I understand the dec until 4 sts remain BUT do you do the right hip shaping at the same time and when do you start the Bust shaping short rows and so on? Do you finish one paragraph before starting the next one? SORRY.


Yes, you will do the end decreases at the same time you are doing the right hip shaping. After that you will start the bust shaping and continue the decreases until you get to the 4 stitches. And at the end of Bust shaping A, B, C & D you will go back and do the hip shaping paragraph again so you will be working the right hip shaping paragraph a total of 5 times (the original time and after the 4 bust shaping paragraphs).

Lots to keep in mind during these sections too. Because of the short rows, you will also have to be aware of where your cables will cross as they won't all cross on the same row to keep them crossing at even increments.


----------



## peachy51

elilashley said:


> on row 5 set-up my problem is the (p2,LT,p2, k2). I don't understand the LT. I thought it was the p/up of the 2nd
> stitch from the right hand needle. What does LT mean?
> eli lashley


Look at the legend for your chart. The first symbol that indicates a cable is actually a LT and the instructions are there.

Slip one stitch on the cable needle and hold to the front, knit the next stitch, then knit the stitch from the cable needle.


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## gdhavens

If I am reading the chart correctly, you work the first hip shaping, then work all the way across the piece to the first bust shaping, then back to the hip, etc. until you have all the right side shaping done. Is this how everyone else is reading it. Oh, by the way, I used the cable "cheat sheet" on the last page of instructions. Erica, I LOVE the way you write your patterns.


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## peachy51

Off topic here.

Erica, I see that your Drop-Stitch Cardi is featured in yesterday's Knitting Daily e-mail! Woo hoo :mrgreen: 

Your talents amaze me. :thumbup:


----------



## Jill2

gdhavens said:


> If I am reading the chart correctly, you work the first hip shaping, then work all the way across the piece to the first bust shaping, then back to the hip, etc. until you have all the right side shaping done. Is this how everyone else is reading it. Oh, by the way, I used the cable "cheat sheet" on the last page of instructions. Erica, I LOVE the way you write your patterns.


Yes, that's how it's done.

I like the cheat sheet too....when I first saw it I thought "e-gads, what is this?"
But as soon as I started working the short rows it clicked and I found it to be a very valuable tool.


----------



## Bethe1

I'm a little behind so just getting started with my swatching. First swatch came out too small, so I've gone up a needle size. My question is this: is it ok to reuse the same yarn that has been (wet) blocked for my new swatch? Is the yarn relaxed so much that I don't block it a second time? Or do I just pretend it's new yarn and block the same way again?


----------



## questmiller

Oh Donna said:


> questmiller, you said, "If you need help with the Knitcompanion app, I may be able to help. I've become fairly comfortable with it. Let me know..."
> Wow...thank you! Do you have any recommendations on how to break the pattern down, or what features are particularily useful?
> I had downloaded this app, but hadn't yet spent any time with it. On this thread, you or someone mentioned being able to load this pattern into it, fiddle with it, and get "rows highlighted" or some such.
> So far this morning I managed to get each section, eg sleeves, right hip shaping, etc each onto a separate "page" isolated or with the appropriate chart...I put the directions for "right hip shaping" again on the same page after each of those multiple sections that called for it, but that's as far as I got. (OOH, Erica, is this ok? Hopefully not an infringement of some sort)
> Is there some way to mark or "tic off" rows or stitches as you get them done? To get it to come back to where you left off when you come back to it, after DH has swiped it for a reading session?
> We make maple syrup at our sugar house this time of year---I will be stuck (not stuck--I love it there)--alone at the cabin with the i-pad while hubby is busy boiling, so I'll spend some time with it and come back with better questions.
> This program looks absolutely amazing--to others out there, the basic app was .99 I think, with several very nice free patterns. Once you want to import your own patterns in, then it costs $15.99--next best deal of the day after Erica's bestest deal of all!


I think the best thing would be for you to PM me and we can set up a time for a chat (online or landline -- I have free long distance) it would be so much easier to walk you through it with my program open and doing it at the same time as you. And yes, it is easy to set up row counting that doesn't erase when the program gets shut down.


----------



## questmiller

Oh Donna said:


> questmiller, you said, "If you need help with the Knitcompanion app, I may be able to help. I've become fairly comfortable with it. Let me know..."
> ... (OOH, Erica, is this ok? Hopefully not an infringement of some sort)
> ...
> This program looks absolutely amazing--to others out there, the basic app was .99 I think, with several very nice free patterns. Once you want to import your own patterns in, then it costs $15.99--next best deal of the day after Erica's bestest deal of all!


To answer your concern about using KC and the possibility of it being an infringement, it's no different than printing out a pattern and making notes on the paper -- this is just electronic.


----------



## questmiller

Bethe1 said:


> I'm a little behind so just getting started with my swatching. First swatch came out too small, so I've gone up a needle size. My question is this: is it ok to reuse the same yarn that has been (wet) blocked for my new swatch? Is the yarn relaxed so much that I don't block it a second time? Or do I just pretend it's new yarn and block the same way again?


I'm not too certain about the aspects of the yarn after it's been blocked, but I did see an interesting way to straighten out yarn after frogging and before re-knitting it. You put your tea kettle on to boil and thread the yarn end through the spout. Slowly pull the yarn through and the steam and the boiling water straightens the yarn.


----------



## elilashley

peachy51---thanks so much for the explanation. I can manage the cable alright but my abbreviations say: LT left twist. Now that I have it all ripped out I'm going by the previous row and assuming I: p2, LT are 2 sts to be knit in cable , followed by p2, etc. I won't be asking what RT means. Sometimes the simplest things take much studying! I"ve checked out the ML and MR on knitpicks, and
even found the descriptions on the bottom of Chart A.
Now to match my tension on the knitting machine with my tension for the sweater for a second pair of sleeves and upper back and upper fronts.
til later, eli lashley


----------



## peachy51

elilashley said:


> peachy51---thanks so much for the explanation. I can manage the cable alright but my abbreviations say: LT left twist. Now that I have it all ripped out I'm going by the previous row and assuming I: p2, LT are 2 sts to be knit in cable , followed by p2, etc. I won't be asking what RT means. Sometimes the simplest things take much studying! I"ve checked out the ML and MR on knitpicks, and
> even found the descriptions on the bottom of Chart A.
> Now to match my tension on the knitting machine with my tension for the sweater for a second pair of sleeves and upper back and upper fronts.
> til later, eli lashley


Here is a video that shows more clearly the ML and MR which are lifted increases: 




And yes, for the row 5, you will P2 and then the next two stitches make up the LT by putting a stitch on the cable needle and holding it to the front and then knitting the next stitch and then knitting the stitch from the cable needle. This is then followed by the P2, K2. Those equal 8 stitches and they are done 3 times.

Hopefully that helps 

EDIT: The RT is done exactly like the LT except that the stitch on the cable needle is held to the back instead of the front while you knit the next stitch.


----------



## elilashley

Carolinesol: thanks for getting back to me, all input helps with getting to the root of the problem. If you look at Peachy51's answer to my problem, she explains it that LT is a one stitch cable, meaning put 1 st on cable holder in front, knit next st from left needle then st. from cable holder for a left slant cable. Hope I'm right about that, then the RT will be the st. on the cable holder, in the back, knit st. from left needle, then st. from cable holder. I'm going to try it like you did, so I can see how that looks for future use. Good luck to both of us, we"ll get this sweater knit, yet. On the bottom of Chart A are the instructions.
eli lashley


----------



## Patchworkcat

I can't get past Row 4. It's not the pattern; it's my own clumsiness. I got the cable of my needles caught on something, gave it a tug, and half the stitches came off the needle tip. And, I did it twice! It's almost like I don't even know how to knit. Good grief!

Tomorrow, I will get to Row 5, at least, before disaster should strike again. <lol>

Jill


----------



## Carolinesol

Hi elilashley
My way turns out the same. I just could not be bothered with a cable needle for 2 sts. 
This is such fun. I was a bit worried about the shape it was turning out. But I am keeping my fingers crossed. 
Caroline


----------



## Carolinesol

Hi peachy51
Thanks for your help. I did knit through it and saw exactly what I had to do ! I should have read it through first. Still a little worried about the shape it's Turing out. But we will see. Thanks again.


----------



## peachy51

Carolinesol said:


> Hi peachy51
> Thanks for your help. I did knit through it and saw exactly what I had to do ! I should have read it through first. Still a little worried about the shape it's Turing out. But we will see. Thanks again.


Caroline, don't know how far you are, but I am now beginning the bust shaping and it is looking funny, but I'm sure I've followed all the directions accurately so far.

Can you post a pic?


----------



## peachy51

I have a question about the Cable Crossing Cheat Sheet. I've never seen one of these before. After looking it over, I thought I had figured out how to read it, but now I'm sure I don't. 

I'm assuming we read it from bottom to top and start with the left-hand side. If that is true, then it looks to me like the first crossing dot is on a wrong side row since the bust shaping begins on a right-side row and the dot looks to me like it's on a come-back row.

Help! LOL

EDIT: I THINK I MAY HAVE FIGURED IT OUT ... PLEASE READ MY POST ON THE NEXT PAGE AND SEE IF I'M ON THE RIGHT TRACK.


----------



## Carolinesol

Hi peachy51
This is current pic of my work. It does not look quite so bad flat out on the floor! I am nearly finished chart B on the body back. Thanks for your help and time. Caroline
Ps. Not even looked at cheat sheet as it really looks double Dutch to me as never seen one before. Hope that does not sound rude its defo not meant to be. Just my incompetence. C


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## RiverSong

Beautiful!!


----------



## peachy51

Carolinesol said:


> Hi peachy51
> This is current pic of my work. It does not look quite so bad flat out on the floor! I am nearly finished chart B on the body back. Thanks for your help and time. Caroline


It's looking great! And you're ahead of me  Of course, I was at this point when I aborted my first one and started over, so now I'm back to where I was.

Can you answer my post above about the cheat sheet? (Well, it might help if I would read your whole post before jumping in and responding ... LOL)

Right, now I'm just planning to wing it. :mrgreen:


----------



## Carolinesol

Sorry no to cheat sheet answer.
Shame you undid your first one. I thought it would be nice in Cotten did think about it myself.
Have a good day / night where ever you are. I have my one year old granddaughter for the whole day ....... Such a hardship !


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## peachy51

Carolinesol said:


> Sorry no to cheat sheet answer.


LOL ... i just edited my response.


----------



## Carolinesol

So did I. !


----------



## Carolinesol

Thanks Riversong.


----------



## peachy51

EUREKA!!! I think I've figured it out. I think the very first crossing at the bottom left was the one I did when I did the hip shaping so the ones on the right will be for the bust shaping and the ones on the left will be for the hip ???

Anyone want to weigh in?

EDIT: Talking about the Cable Crossing Cheat Sheet here


----------



## Carolinesol

? Not sure what you mean.


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## peachy51

Carolinesol said:


> ? Not sure what you mean.


LOL ... talking about the cheat sheet still :mrgreen:


----------



## Carolinesol

Ok. Thought you wanted to know my weight !
I am not going to use it I don't think, unless I get stuck on the other sides shaping.


----------



## peachy51

Carolinesol said:


> Ok. Thought you wanted to know my weight !
> I am not going to use it I don't think, unless I get stuck on the other sides shaping.


HAHA ... well it's 3:00 a.m. here and I didn't go to bed last night so I am a little bit of a pumpkin here, but I haven't lost it so much that I need to know what anyone weighs ... LOL :mrgreen:


----------



## RobbiD

I am in need of some guidance please!!! My yarn finally arrived today (yippee). Love the color, love the yarn...but there is a problem. They sent 6 skeins in 1 dye lot, 4 skeins of another dye lot, and they are noticeably different . The 6 skeins amount to 1200 yds, the size I need to knit calls for 1540. Should I make the sleeves and I-cord from the smaller dye lot? Sleeves, I-cord, and top pieces? I really don't think I would be capable of alternating each dye lot, row-by-row, with all of the other design elements going on in the body of the sweater. I'm not sure what to do. Any suggestions? Thanx in advance.
PS They did not guarantee all one dye lot when I ordered. Just a disclaimer that they attempt to send all the same dye lot, but no guarantee of it.


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## Carolinesol

That's naughty of them. I think it might bug me if I knew it was different shades. Can you get in touch with supplier and ask them to send more of one of the dye lots and then at least you could start.
Just seen last bit.... So maybe they won't send more so forget what I said ????


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## peachy51

RobbiD said:


> I am in need of some guidance please!!! My yarn finally arrived today (yippee). Love the color, love the yarn...but there is a problem. They sent 6 skeins in 1 dye lot, 4 skeins of another dye lot, and they are noticeably different . The 6 skeins amount to 1200 yds, the size I need to knit calls for 1540. Should I make the sleeves and I-cord from the smaller dye lot? Sleeves, I-cord, and top pieces? I really don't think I would be capable of alternating each dye lot, row-by-row, with all of the other design elements going on in the body of the sweater. I'm not sure what to do. Any suggestions? Thanx in advance.
> PS They did not guarantee all one dye lot when I ordered. Just a disclaimer that they attempt to send all the same dye lot, but no guarantee of it.


That is sad ... I'm sorry for your quandry.

If they are supposed to be the same color and there is a slight variation, it won't look like a contrast so I don't think I would want to do whole sections or I-cord different from the main body. Have you considered maybe knitting 10 rows of one and 10 rows of the other and maybe give it a muted striped effect? That way you wouldn't be changing every row and it will still have some continuity?


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## RobbiD

peachy51 said:


> That is sad ... I'm sorry for your quandry.
> 
> If they are supposed to be the same color and there is a slight variation, it won't look like a contrast so I don't think I would want to do whole sections or I-cord different from the main body. Have you considered maybe knitting 10 rows of one and 10 rows of the other and maybe give it a muted striped effect? That way you wouldn't be changing every row and it will still have some continuity?


A good option, Peachy51, but would the difference in shading kind of "pinpoint" the shortrows? That was what I was thinking, anyway. Guess I'll just have to delay starting a little longer, while I swatch, and swatch, and swatch again. My how I detest swatching


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## RobbiD

Carolinesol said:


> That's naughty of them. I think it might bug me if I knew it was different shades. Can you get in touch with supplier and ask them to send more of one of the dye lots and then at least you could start.
> Just seen last bit.... So maybe they won't send more so forget what I said ????


Yep, it was the disclaimer that prevented me from contacting them. Actually thought of going to my local JoAnn (where I ordered the yarn from) to see if by some strange quirk they had the larger dye lot in stock, but I am temporarily immobilized (broken right foot) so can't walk very well, or drive at all. Ah, well, where there is the will, there is a way, right? Gonna start swatching. Hopefully I won't need to buy new needles!!


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## Carolinesol

RobbiD said:


> Yep, it was the disclaimer that prevented me from contacting them. Actually thought of going to my local JoAnn (where I ordered the yarn from) to see if by some strange quirk they had the larger dye lot in stock, but I am temporarily immobilized (broken right foot) so can't walk very well, or drive at all. Ah, well, where there is the will, there is a way, right? Gonna start swatching. Hopefully I won't need to buy new needles!!


Could you ring them and ask? Sometimes people are helpful on the phone.


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## Earlene H

I hope to get started with my sweater today..... I am excited to see everyone's sweaters...


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## sewknitbeadgrandma

RobbiD said:


> Yep, it was the disclaimer that prevented me from contacting them. Actually thought of going to my local JoAnn (where I ordered the yarn from) to see if by some strange quirk they had the larger dye lot in stock, but I am temporarily immobilized (broken right foot) so can't walk very well, or drive at all. Ah, well, where there is the will, there is a way, right? Gonna start swatching. Hopefully I won't need to buy new needles!!


Hope you get a good resolve. The 10 row change sounds like a good plan.


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## questmiller

RobbiD said:


> I am in need of some guidance please!!! My yarn finally arrived today (yippee). Love the color, love the yarn...but there is a problem. They sent 6 skeins in 1 dye lot, 4 skeins of another dye lot, and they are noticeably different . The 6 skeins amount to 1200 yds, the size I need to knit calls for 1540. Should I make the sleeves and I-cord from the smaller dye lot? Sleeves, I-cord, and top pieces? I really don't think I would be capable of alternating each dye lot, row-by-row, with all of the other design elements going on in the body of the sweater. I'm not sure what to do. Any suggestions? Thanx in advance.
> PS They did not guarantee all one dye lot when I ordered. Just a disclaimer that they attempt to send all the same dye lot, but no guarantee of it.


I read that you could do two rows of one dye lot and then two rows of the other dye lot to give some sort of blend to it. That way you wouldn't have to worry about weaving in the ends --you would just twist the yarn at the beginning of the changes. 
Bummer, though. Where did you order from? -- I'd stay clear of them in the future. When I was ordering my Yarn from knitpicks I ordered exactly half of what I needed and I call them back a week or so later and said "I don't know if you can help me or not but this is the dye lot" and praise be, they did get the very same dye lot back to me


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## questmiller

RobbiD said:


> Yep, it was the disclaimer that prevented me from contacting them. Actually thought of going to my local JoAnn (where I ordered the yarn from) to see if by some strange quirk they had the larger dye lot in stock, but I am temporarily immobilized (broken right foot) so can't walk very well, or drive at all. Ah, well, where there is the will, there is a way, right? Gonna start swatching. Hopefully I won't need to buy new needles!!


OK, now I see JoAnn...what yarn and dye lot? Maybe we all can give a good look at each of our local JoAnn stores and find it for you...worth a try!


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## Erica Patberg

The first step would be to try to match your dye lots. if you have no joy, could you post a pic of the two dye lots? I'm curious as to how noticeable the difference is. If it's noticeable but subtle you might try knitting the body out of the larger dye lot and sleeves and top pieces out of the smaller dye lot. Since the color change would fall at a natural seam it might be acceptable. If it's a huge difference that might not be a great solution.



RobbiD said:


> I am in need of some guidance please!!! My yarn finally arrived today (yippee). Love the color, love the yarn...but there is a problem. They sent 6 skeins in 1 dye lot, 4 skeins of another dye lot, and they are noticeably different . The 6 skeins amount to 1200 yds, the size I need to knit calls for 1540. Should I make the sleeves and I-cord from the smaller dye lot? Sleeves, I-cord, and top pieces? I really don't think I would be capable of alternating each dye lot, row-by-row, with all of the other design elements going on in the body of the sweater. I'm not sure what to do. Any suggestions? Thanx in advance.
> PS They did not guarantee all one dye lot when I ordered. Just a disclaimer that they attempt to send all the same dye lot, but no guarantee of it.


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## Grazia

Pretty cool you are going out. Big round of applause. Pity, however, that do not advance straight ahead systematically adding mesh at the bottom of the front. It's a great facility.


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## beaz

This makes no sense at all unless it was aimed toward someone in particular who knows what she is trying to say.


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## peachy51

RobbiD said:


> Yep, it was the disclaimer that prevented me from contacting them. Actually thought of going to my local JoAnn (where I ordered the yarn from) to see if by some strange quirk they had the larger dye lot in stock, but I am temporarily immobilized (broken right foot) so can't walk very well, or drive at all. Ah, well, where there is the will, there is a way, right? Gonna start swatching. Hopefully I won't need to buy new needles!!


You might also look on Ravelry to see if anyone there has any of the dye lot that matches your 6 skeins. If you find someone, they may be willing to trade you for the skeins you have of the other dye lot.


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## Carole-Jayne

I think it is very poor customer service - to not guarentee matched dye lots. *I* think that if a company can't provide what is obviously need, they should inform you and let you decide. I'd boycott them.cj


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## peachy51

CaROLE-JAYNE said:


> I think it is very poor customer service - to not guarentee matched dye lots. *I* think that if a company can't provide what is obviously need, they should inform you and let you decide. I'd boycott them.cj


I tend to agree with you CJ. If they are in the yarn business, then they certainly know if you order X number of skeins you are probably going to want them to match.

I ran into a similar issue recently when I asked my LYS to order 6 skeins of Universal Cotton Supreme for me in the same dye lot. When I asked her about it the next time I was in, she told me she had talked with Universal and they couldn't guarantee the same dye lots as the yarn is sold in 5-skein bags. That sounded so ludicrous to me that I'm just not going to buy from either one of them in the future. :thumbdown:


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## Patchworkcat

beaz said:


> This makes no sense at all unless it was aimed toward someone in particular who knows what she is trying to say.


I think she doesn't speak/write/read English and uses a translator program. Some stuff just doesn't translate well. Cut her some slack, please.

Jill


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## pinsandneedles

Have just completed Chart A, do you do chart B for all sizes 1 time and repeat the number of times in the brackets for your size.For some reason I cannot get my brain around this direction.Guess the 0 before the bracket is what's throwing me off.Thanks for your input.


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## peachy51

pinsandneedles said:


> Have just completed Chart A, do you do chart B for all sizes 1 time and repeat the number of times in the brackets for your size.For some reason I cannot get my brain around this direction.Guess the 0 before the bracket is what's throwing me off.Thanks for your input.


What size are you making? I'm making a 36 so where it says:

"Work 0(0,0,1,1,2,3) repeats of Chart B . . . "

I didn't work any of Chart B because my size states "zero"

Just go below the chart to the first paragraph that starts with "All sizes" and go from there.

You will be following Chart B through the rest of this page until the last paragraph brings in Chart C.


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## mlw2504

I'm having a hard time deciding on the color to make it. What are some of your colors?


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## peachy51

mlw2504 said:


> I'm having a hard time deciding on the color to make it. What are some of your colors?


Caroline and I have some pics posted on page 15.


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## pinsandneedles

peachy51 said:


> What size are you making? I'm making a 36 so where it says:
> 
> "Work 0(0,0,1,1,2,3) repeats of Chart B . . . "
> 
> I didn't work any of Chart B because my size states "zero"
> 
> Just go below the chart to the first paragraph that starts with "All sizes" and go from there.
> 
> You will be following Chart B through the rest of this page until the last paragraph brings in Chart C.


I'm making sz. 40. The word repeats I guess is what threw me , also when I hold the piece I have done up to the body it doesn't quite seem like it is going to fit but am sure I will have to wait until I get more done and then decide. I will put in a life line just to be on the safe side. Thanks for your reply. I did have some not so good news today and that may be throwing my ability to think more clearly as well. Again thanks.


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## peachy51

pinsandneedles said:


> I'm making sz. 40. The word repeats I guess is what threw me , also when I hold the piece I have done up to the body it doesn't quite seem like it is going to fit but am sure I will have to wait until I get more done and then decide. I will put in a life line just to be on the safe side. Thanks for your reply. I did have some not so good news today and that may be throwing my ability to think more clearly as well. Again thanks.


Ok, so you will work Chart B one time (just like you did Chart A with the 4 repeats of the stitches in the red box).

I put a lifeline in at the end of Chart A too just to be cautious.

Sorry about your bad news ... I hope everything turns out ok.


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## charlenekbenton

Hey, Mary...I'm doing a pale grass green for my sweater.....just pick your fav color & start, remember its more of a fall/winter sweater so pick something you will enjoy wearing next fall/winter. Happy knitting!


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## questmiller

mlw2504 said:


> I'm having a hard time deciding on the color to make it. What are some of your colors?


Here's mine. I'm at the place where I am increasing for the bottom section while doing the short row shaping. Notice that I choose to not change the cable direction at the center back. I hope it will work out OK at the front... I put in a lifeline just in case...


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## Patchworkcat

questmiller said:


> Here's mine. I'm at the place where I am increasing for the bottom section while doing the short row shaping. Notice that I choose to not change the cable direction at the center back. I hope it will work out OK at the front... I put in a lifeline just in case...


I'll be very interested to know how *not* changing the cable direction works out. I'm thinking of doing the same thing.

Nice job so far. Love the color, too.

Jill


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## Flybreit

mlw2504 said:


> I'm having a hard time deciding on the color to make it. What are some of your colors?


Here is mine - called Sea Mist, very subtle shading of gray blue, aqua, and pale green - I love it!


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## peachy51

I am blown away at how well written this pattern is and how talented Erica is to figure this all out.

The Cable Crossing Cheat Sheet (once I figured out how to read it) is pure genius. It took completely out of my hands having to count and do the math and keep up with when to make a cable cross. :thumbup: 

I have to say that this has got to be one of the most fun and interesting pieces I have ever knit and I'm enjoying every minute of it! :mrgreen:


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## RobbiD

Erica Patberg said:


> The first step would be to try to match your dye lots. if you have no joy, could you post a pic of the two dye lots? I'm curious as to how noticeable the difference is. If it's noticeable but subtle you might try knitting the body out of the larger dye lot and sleeves and top pieces out of the smaller dye lot. Since the color change would fall at a natural seam it might be acceptable. If it's a huge difference that might not be a great solution.


Thank you everyone for your great responses to my dilemma. My first thought, considering my current "immobility", was the same as Erica suggested, sleeves and top pieces out of the smaller dye lot. I will try to post a pic of the 2 dye lots. My Honey said, "Close enough!", but a friend said, "Not."


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## RobbiD

I think I am about to become the poster child of dumb questions. In the instructions, on the first page, Erica points out that when working past a turning stitch on the short rows to "knit the paired stitch together with it's turning stitch if you're using German short rows." I had intended to use this method for my short rows. I have watched a You Tube tutorial of German Short Rows by Eileen Casey, liked the technique, and thought I had the technique down fairly well. BUT in the tutorial, she says nothing about knitting the paired stitch together with the turning stitch. Just to be sure to kit both loops of the paired stitch together. I'm soooo confused. Which is the turning stitch? The one you slip? The one before? The one after? Wouldn't knitting 2 stitches together cause a decrease? OOOH my aching head!!


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## 48barb

Scarf. 
Thanks for alerting me to this thread.I've been looking for the pattern on the other thread. I still need to pick a yarn. So many other projects on the needles that have to be done before I can start on Erica's lovely cardi.
Cheers


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## peachy51

RobbiD said:


> I think I am about to become the poster child of dumb questions. In the instructions, on the first page, Erica points out that when working past a turning stitch on the short rows to "knit the paired stitch together with it's turning stitch if you're using German short rows." I had intended to use this method for my short rows. I have watched a You Tube tutorial of German Short Rows by Eileen Casey, liked the technique, and thought I had the technique down fairly well. BUT in the tutorial, she says nothing about knitting the paired stitch together with the turning stitch. Just to be sure to kit both loops of the paired stitch together. I'm soooo confused. Which is the turning stitch? The one you slip? The one before? The one after? Wouldn't knitting 2 stitches together cause a decrease? OOOH my aching head!!


Can't help you much with that one as I did Japenese Short Rows on mine, but you are correct that if you knit the two together you would have a decrease. Erica also says to use whatever short row method you choose, so I think you should just do it the way the video says if you are comfortable with that. I would suggest tho that you might want to knit a swatch and practice with it first.


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## questmiller

RobbiD said:


> I think I am about to become the poster child of dumb questions. In the instructions, on the first page, Erica points out that when working past a turning stitch on the short rows to "knit the paired stitch together with it's turning stitch if you're using German short rows." I had intended to use this method for my short rows. I have watched a You Tube tutorial of German Short Rows by Eileen Casey, liked the technique, and thought I had the technique down fairly well. BUT in the tutorial, she says nothing about knitting the paired stitch together with the turning stitch. Just to be sure to kit both loops of the paired stitch together. I'm soooo confused. Which is the turning stitch? The one you slip? The one before? The one after? Wouldn't knitting 2 stitches together cause a decrease? OOOH my aching head!!


That may be a question of semantics. I don't think you are to knit two stitches together. I watched Eileen Casey's tutorial as well and think you should just be sure to knit both strands of the turning stitch as one. It seemed to be very obvious (unless I totally messed up, too) but then you are right that it would cause a decrease. Any other thoughts on this?


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## Jessica-Jean

RobbiD said:


> I think I am about to become the poster child of dumb questions. In the instructions, on the first page, Erica points out that when working past a turning stitch on the short rows to "knit the paired stitch together with it's turning stitch if you're using German short rows." I had intended to use this method for my short rows. I have watched a You Tube tutorial of German Short Rows by Eileen Casey, liked the technique, and thought I had the technique down fairly well. BUT in the tutorial, she says nothing about knitting the paired stitch together with the turning stitch. Just to be sure to kit both loops of the paired stitch together. I'm soooo confused. Which is the turning stitch? The one you slip? The one before? The one after? Wouldn't knitting 2 stitches together cause a decrease? OOOH my aching head!!


I'll admit to not having watched the video, but _usually_ in stockinette stitch, one knits the stitch around which one had previously wrapped _along with_ the yarn that's wrapped around it. This lifts it up to the back side of the project and makes the horizontal bar vanish from the smooth stockinette fabric.

Hoping this makes sense.


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## peachy51

Jessica-Jean said:


> I'll admit to not having watched the video, but _usually_ in stockinette stitch, one knits the stitch around which one had previously wrapped _along with_ the yarn that's wrapped around it. This lifts it up to the back side of the project and makes the horizontal bar vanish from the smooth stockinette fabric.
> 
> Hoping this makes sense.


But with the German Short Rows there isn't a wrap. I'm thinking Erica just meant to pick up both legs of the turning stitch.


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## charlenekbenton

Hey, Erica....could u please weigh in on this so we know the correct answer? Thanks


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## elilashley

Carolinesol, Thanks for taking the time to answer my dilemma. I've made the LT like you suggested and I think it is just fine. I am now into Chart A.
eli lashley


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## Jessica-Jean

charlenekbenton said:


> Hey, Erica....could u please weigh in on this so we know the correct answer? Thanks


It's pre-dawn in Holland; she'll catch up after she gets up and does what needs doing.


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## kittys punkin

I have never knitted a clothing item before and am fairly new to knitting. I have started the 1st sleeve and I am stuck. I am at the sleeve shaping, but I'm not sure if the wrong side rows are P and right side rows are K. Would you just do the increases every 6,8,10 rows as indicated on RS rows and P WS rows? Or K every row and inc as indicated for 6,8,10 rows? I know ther are a lot of pros on here who will help me. Thank you very much. Helen


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## peachy51

kittys punkin said:


> I have never knitted a clothing item before and am fairly new to knitting. I have started the 1st sleeve and I am stuck. I am at the sleeve shaping, but I'm not sure if the wrong side rows are P and right side rows are K. Would you just do the increases every 6,8,10 rows as indicated on RS rows and P WS rows? Or K every row and inc as indicated for 6,8,10 rows? I know ther are a lot of pros on here who will help me. Thank you very much. Helen


The knit side is the right side and the purl side is the wrong side. All of your increases on the sleeves will be made on the right side.


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## kittys punkin

Thank you peachy. Everyone on KP is so wonderful. Always so willing to help when someone has a question. Since I am new to knitting I am sure I will have more questions before I am done, but I'm determined to do this sweater.


----------



## peachy51

kittys punkin said:


> Thank you peachy. Everyone on KP is so wonderful. Always so willing to help when someone has a question. Since I am new to knitting I am sure I will have more questions before I am done, but I'm determined to do this sweater.


You just ask away. The pattern is well written so you will get it. I have had a couple questions, but mostly I thought I had it and needed to clarify that I was reading it right. I've learned to just follow the pattern step-by-step 

I did put in a lifeline at the end of Chart A and then again after I finished the bust shaping ... you might want to think about that just in case you do need to frog back for any reason.


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## kittys punkin

Thank you. I have already decided to use life lines. I was working on a shawl and relly messed it up. I somehow got my stitches off. It is a lace shawl. So I have decided to put it aside for now and see how I want to proceed with it. I'm not to sure about how well I can do with frogging it and then getting my stitches back on the needles. Just chalk it up to experience!


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## peachy51

What do y'all think of this idea??

Maybe the first one to finish this sweater could open a thread called Erica's Sunburst Cardigan Parade in the Pictures Section and then we could all post our pics in that thread as we finish.

Sort of like the Bear Parade some time back.


----------



## Carolinesol

elilashley said:


> Carolinesol, Thanks for taking the time to answer my dilemma. I've made the LT like you suggested and I think it is just fine. I am now into Chart A.
> eli lashley


Glad I could be of some help instead of kind people helping me all the time. I am really enjoying making this cardi.


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## Carolinesol

questmiller said:


> Here's mine. I'm at the place where I am increasing for the bottom section while doing the short row shaping. Notice that I choose to not change the cable direction at the center back. I hope it will work out OK at the front... I put in a lifeline just in case...


I think we will look like twins.... Mine is just like this colour. I need to find out what life lines are !


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## questmiller

Carolinesol said:


> I think we will look like twins.... Mine is just like this colour. I need to find out what life lines are !


Life lines are a yarn of a different color than your working yarn that you thread through all the stitches on your needle in case you make a mistake and have to frog back. You add them after a section that you know is correct and before a section that you may not be certain of just in case. You just use a darning needle to go through all the stitches. If you do make a mistake, you just drop your stitches and rip out until you come to the life line. Then you can easily pick up the stitches and get going again.


----------



## Carolinesol

questmiller said:


> Life lines are a yarn of a different color than your working yarn that you thread through all the stitches on your needle in case you make a mistake and have to frog back. You add them after a section that you know is correct and before a section that you may not be certain of just in case. You just use a darning needle to go through all the stitches. If you do make a mistake, you just drop your stitches and rip out until you come to the life line. Then you can easily pick up the stitches and get going again.


Thanks for the info. I did have to frog once and was worried I would not know where I was... But it was ok. Think I might try a lifeline now though. Thanks again


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## Carolinesol

peachy51 said:


> What do y'all think of this idea??
> 
> Maybe the first one to finish this sweater could open a thread called Erica's Sunburst Cardigan Parade in the Pictures Section and then we could all post our pics in that thread as we finish.
> 
> Sort of like the Bear Parade some time back.


I think this is a great idea.


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## Erica Patberg

Yes! If you lay your knitting out flat with the cast on edge at the bottom and your needles at the top, then set the bottom of the cable crossing cheat sheet at the top of your knitting, you'll imagine that the zig zag line of on the cheat sheet is the path that your working yarn will follow, zig zagging through the hip shaping, then bust shaping A, then hip shaping, then bust shaping B. the red dots will always fall on a RS row, because they represent cable crossings and in this pattern all cables cross on RS rows. Does that help you visualize it?



peachy51 said:


> EUREKA!!! I think I've figured it out. I think the very first crossing at the bottom left was the one I did when I did the hip shaping so the ones on the right will be for the bust shaping and the ones on the left will be for the hip ???
> 
> Anyone want to weigh in?
> 
> EDIT: Talking about the Cable Crossing Cheat Sheet here


----------



## Erica Patberg

Just a semantics thing. I did some serious research on short rows a while back so I probably think about them a little differently than most folks. I meant that you should knit both loops of the paired sts together. If you were to dissect a wrap & turn and compare it to the German method, you'd find a very similar structure. One leg of the German paired st being the same as your turning st in the W&T and the other leg of your paired st being the equivalent of the wrap, but very tight (which is why they usually look neater). All of this is neither here nor there as long as you're knitting your short rows without gaping holes or extra decreases! )



RobbiD said:


> I think I am about to become the poster child of dumb questions. In the instructions, on the first page, Erica points out that when working past a turning stitch on the short rows to "knit the paired stitch together with it's turning stitch if you're using German short rows." I had intended to use this method for my short rows. I have watched a You Tube tutorial of German Short Rows by Eileen Casey, liked the technique, and thought I had the technique down fairly well. BUT in the tutorial, she says nothing about knitting the paired stitch together with the turning stitch. Just to be sure to kit both loops of the paired stitch together. I'm soooo confused. Which is the turning stitch? The one you slip? The one before? The one after? Wouldn't knitting 2 stitches together cause a decrease? OOOH my aching head!!


----------



## RobbiD

Erica Patberg said:


> Just a semantics thing. I did some serious research on short rows a while back so I probably think about them a little differently than most folks. I meant that you should knit both loops of the paired sts together. If you were to dissect a wrap & turn and compare it to the German method, you'd find a very similar structure. One leg of the German paired st being the same as your turning st in the W&T and the other leg of your paired st being the equivalent of the wrap, but very tight (which is why they usually look neater). All of this is neither here nor there as long as you're knitting your short rows without gaping holes or extra decreases! )


Thank you very much for clearing that up for me. I had practiced on some scrap yarn til I thought they looked good. I'm glad I was doing them right. I want very much for this sweater to be as near perfect as possible. My Honey has been so encouraging, every step of the way. He is happy I'm finally making something for *myself*. (I think I'll keep him.) :lol:


----------



## RobbiD

questmiller said:


> That may be a question of semantics. I don't think you are to knit two stitches together. I watched Eileen Casey's tutorial as well and think you should just be sure to knit both strands of the turning stitch as one. It seemed to be very obvious (unless I totally messed up, too) but then you are right that it would cause a decrease. Any other thoughts on this?


Questmiller, peachy51, Jessica-Jean, et al., Thank you all so much for getting me straight on the short rows. Yep, it was all a matter of semantics. That's what I get for knitting when I haven't had enough sleep! Stiol working on the dye lot problem, but have found a possible solution. I think!  Thanks, everyone, for all of your help and suggestions.


----------



## Needleme

Well, I am on Row 12 of Chart A. Moving very slowly but carefully. The chart IS easy to follow-- you all were right on! However, I am not doing much with the marker but moving it from needle to needle as I go along. I am afraid I am missing something here!-- am I?


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## mom2grif

Needleme said:


> Well, I am on Row 12 of Chart A. Moving very slowly but carefully. The chart IS easy to follow-- you all were right on! However, I am not doing much with the marker but moving it from needle to needle as I go along. I am afraid I am missing something here!-- am I?


I don't really think its necessary.


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## mom2grif

Carolinesol said:


> I think this is a great idea.


And Erica will have some pictures to add to her pattern!

This is how far I've gotten. Just got started yesterday. Finally settled on a yarn. Nashua Cilantro in lavender. I really, really, really wanted cotton. This is 80% cotton 20% polyester. Very soft and stretchy. Great stitch definition.


----------



## questmiller

mom2grif said:


> And Erica will have some pictures to add to her pattern!
> 
> This is how far I've gotten. Just got started yesterday. Finally settled on a yarn. Nashua Cilantro in lavender. I really, really, really wanted cotton. This is 80% cotton 20% polyester. Very soft and stretchy. Great stitch definition.


Looks lovely!


----------



## Needleme

mom2grif said:


> And Erica will have some pictures to add to her pattern!
> 
> This is how far I've gotten. Just got started yesterday. Finally settled on a yarn. Nashua Cilantro in lavender. I really, really, really wanted cotton. This is 80% cotton 20% polyester. Very soft and stretchy. Great stitch definition.


Pretty! I am just a few rows behind you! Thanks for the response about the marker.


----------



## cathbeasle

My yarn had arrived. Am going to wind it today and try to do a swatch. Have gotten sidetracked with the arrival of spring in the midwest. Had some yard work that could not wait.


----------



## Carolinesol

mom2grif said:


> And Erica will have some pictures to add to her pattern!
> 
> This is how far I've gotten. Just got started yesterday. Finally settled on a yarn. Nashua Cilantro in lavender. I really, really, really wanted cotton. This is 80% cotton 20% polyester. Very soft and stretchy. Great stitch definition.


That looks very nice. Well done. Your yarn looks good.


----------



## Erica Patberg

The marker is there to help with the increases/decreases for the bottom stockinette border, especially if you add extra width. It makes it easier to count the hip shaping short rows as the different sizes will be increasing and decreasing at different spots for the border.


mom2grif said:


> I don't really think its necessary.


----------



## mom2grif

Erica Patberg said:


> The marker is there to help with the increases/decreases for the bottom stockinette border, especially if you add extra width. It makes it easier to count the hip shaping short rows as the different sizes will be increasing and decreasing at different spots for the border.


Don't know why I answer things I have no business answering. Just disregard me when I open my "mouth".

    :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:


----------



## peachy51

mom2grif said:


> I don't really think its necessary.


The marker is necessary when you get to the hip shaping because you will be counting from the marker. And because the stockinette stitches on the left side of the marker are decreasing at the same time as the hip shaping, I wouldn't have wanted to try to remember how to count it without the marker.


----------



## peachy51

Erica Patberg said:


> Yes! If you lay your knitting out flat with the cast on edge at the bottom and your needles at the top, then set the bottom of the cable crossing cheat sheet at the top of your knitting, you'll imagine that the zig zag line of on the cheat sheet is the path that your working yarn will follow, zig zagging through the hip shaping, then bust shaping A, then hip shaping, then bust shaping B. the red dots will always fall on a RS row, because they represent cable crossings and in this pattern all cables cross on RS rows. Does that help you visualize it?


Thank you Erica! I did do it that way and as I said in a later post that Cheat Sheet was pure genius :thumbup:


----------



## mom2grif

peachy51 said:


> The marker is necessary when you get to the hip shaping because you will be counting from the marker. And because the stockinette stitches on the left side of the marker are decreasing at the same time as the hip shaping, I wouldn't have wanted to try to remember how to count it without the marker.


Gotcha! I'll add it when I get close to the shaping!


----------



## beaz

Yarn arrived today and will swatching tomorrow but today am working on a migraine.


----------



## mom2grif

peachy51 said:


> Thank you Erica! I did do it that way and as I said in a later post that Cheat Sheet was pure genius :thumbup:


The light bulb still hasn't gone on for me with the Cheat Sheet. I'll keep at it.


----------



## mom2grif

Beaz, will pray your migraine goes away faster than fast! No fun, headaches! And to impede on knitting, that's really bad!


----------



## mlw2504

Well I did it! I ordered my yarn and this will be my first sweater. It will be quite a challenge for me.

I absolutely love this sweater. Thank you, Erica, for all you hard work and for your help.


----------



## Carolinesol

mom2grif said:


> The light bulb still hasn't gone on for me with the Cheat Sheet. I'll keep at it.


I know what you mean. One look and I am afraid I put it aside. Pattern is wonderful though and I seem to be doing ok.


----------



## Needleme

Erica Patberg said:


> The marker is there to help with the increases/decreases for the bottom stockinette border, especially if you add extra width. It makes it easier to count the hip shaping short rows as the different sizes will be increasing and decreasing at different spots for the border.


Ah, good to know!! I am nervous about the short rows, but will just tackle them when they come!!


----------



## beaz

Thanks Mom


----------



## Bethe1

I've gotten through 22 rows of Chart A, my first chart experience, and I have to admit that following the chart is not too hard! Yippee!

Here's my "progress report". ;-)

P.S. I love my yarn. Valley Yarns Colrain in Whipple Blue.



mom2grif said:


> And Erica will have some pictures to add to her pattern!
> 
> This is how far I've gotten. Just got started yesterday. Finally settled on a yarn. Nashua Cilantro in lavender. I really, really, really wanted cotton. This is 80% cotton 20% polyester. Very soft and stretchy. Great stitch definition.


----------



## questmiller

Bethe1 said:


> I've gotten through 22 rows of Chart A, my first chart experience, and I have to admit that following the chart is not too hard! Yippee!
> 
> Here's my "progress report". ;-)
> 
> P.S. I love my yarn. Valley Yarns Colrain in Whipple Blue.


Very nice


----------



## mom2grif

Very good, seester!


----------



## peachy51

Bethe1 said:


> I've gotten through 22 rows of Chart A, my first chart experience, and I have to admit that following the chart is not too hard! Yippee!
> 
> Here's my "progress report". ;-)
> 
> P.S. I love my yarn. Valley Yarns Colrain in Whipple Blue.


It's looking good. One question tho. It may just be rolled under, but it doesn't look like all the left side increases are there or maybe the pic has just cut it off before the slant starts.

I love the color :thumbup:


----------



## 48barb

What is the cheat sheet and where do I find it?
Thanks


peachy51 said:


> Thank you Erica! I did do it that way and as I said in a later post that Cheat Sheet was pure genius :thumbup:


----------



## peachy51

48barb said:


> What is the cheat sheet and where do I find it?
> Thanks


Barbara, it is Page 7 of the pattern.


----------



## 48barb

WOW! what a speedy response.
Thank you so much. 
Cheers


peachy51 said:


> Barbara, it is Page 7 of the pattern.


----------



## RobbiD

mom2grif said:


> The light bulb still hasn't gone on for me with the Cheat Sheet. I'll keep at it.


Hi Susan and Peachy51. No "AHA" moment for me iether, yet! Just started the short row section last night. The first hip shaping seemed to go fine. I did the left-most cable as indicated by the cheat sheet. Did bust shaping 'A', short rows seem fine, but the cable crossing, as indicated by the cheat sheet seems to be too soon (as in, not on a tenth row since the last cable crossing). I'm just having my first cup of coffee for the morning, so will look closer at it when BOTH eyes are open. :roll: Maybe the lifeline I put in on row 1 of chart 'B' is distorting my perception?

I also was wondering if anyone else added extra stitches to the lower stockinette border? I added 5 extra stitches to increase the width of the border, on mine. I have been doing the decreases 5 stitches from the left edge, rather than 5 stitches to the left of the marker. Does this matter? Or should I frog back to row 1, and put them 5 stitches to the left of the marker? Will try to upload pic later.


----------



## RobbiD

mlw2504 said:


> Well I did it! I ordered my yarn and this will be my first sweater. It will be quite a challenge for me.
> 
> I absolutely love this sweater. Thank you, Erica, for all you hard work and for your help.


Mary, it is a challenging sweater, but soooo beautiful. Once you start, it will be easier than you think. So far, I am absolutely loving this project. Besides, challenges are a GOOD thing.


----------



## peachy51

RobbiD said:


> Hi Susan and Peachy51. No "AHA" moment for me iether, yet! Just started the short row section last night. The first hip shaping seemed to go fine. I did the left-most cable as indicated by the cheat sheet. Did bust shaping 'A', short rows seem fine, but the cable crossing, as indicated by the cheat sheet seems to be too soon (as in, not on a tenth row since the last cable crossing). I'm just having my first cup of coffee for the morning, so will look closer at it when BOTH eyes are open. :roll: Maybe the lifeline I put in on row 1 of chart 'B' is distorting my perception?
> 
> I also was wondering if anyone else added extra stitches to the lower stockinette border? I added 5 extra stitches to increase the width of the border, on mine. I have been doing the decreases 5 stitches from the left edge, rather than 5 stitches to the left of the marker. Does this matter? Or should I frog back to row 1, and put them 5 stitches to the left of the marker? Will try to upload pic later.


Robbi --- Trust the Cheat Sheet ... it is "right on" :thumbup:

As far as the additional stockinette stitches, I was thinking of doing that, but changed my mind. However, I did post a question regarding this aspect ... following is my post and Erica's response:



peachy51 said:


> Erica ---
> 
> On the bit about making the stockinette section a little longer --
> 
> If I cast on 12 stitches at the end of row 3 instead of the suggested 7 that would be 5 additional stitches in that section.
> 
> So, would that mean that when I am doing the decreases that start with the Right Hip Shaping that I should decrease until I have 9 stitches instead of the suggested 4, in order to leave those 5 stitches that I added?





Erica Patberg said:


> Yes. That's exactly right. And just follow the pattern as written.
> 
> You can also decrease down to 4 if you prefer BUT make a note on the your pattern to remind you of exactly which row you finish you decreases. In order to make the cardi symmetrical you'd also have to start your increases for the other side earlier. If you choose this option, mark on which row you'd need to START the increases for the other side as soon as you finish the decreases. Should be 10 rows earlier than in the directions (1 increase every other row for 5 rows....)


----------



## Flybreit

OK, I have a question about the bust shaping - I've missed what the A,B,C,D,E mean. Are those cup sizes or something else? Thanks!


----------



## peachy51

Flybreit said:


> OK, I have a question about the bust shaping - I've missed what the A,B,C,D,E mean. Are those cup sizes or something else? Thanks!


No, they are just steps ... you need to do all of them.


----------



## Flybreit

Thanks Peachy51  I should have gone back through all the posts before I asked because I found the answer.... I also found I needed to work chart B in full before I started hip shaping.....:-( so I'm frogging. But, it's just a little.


----------



## peachy51

Flybreit said:


> Thanks Peachy51  I should have gone back through all the posts before I asked because I found the answer.... I also found I needed to work chart B in full before I started hip shaping.....:-( so I'm frogging. But, it's just a little.


You are right, some sizes to have to do one or more repeats of Chart B before the hip shaping. Hopefully you can easily get back to the start of that without losing too much.


----------



## Flybreit

peachy51 said:


> You are right, some sizes to have to do one or more repeats of Chart B before the hip shaping. Hopefully you can easily get back to the start of that without losing too much.


Have to love a life line


----------



## Needleme

Just want to say how helpful it is to see photos of folks' sweaters. It helps me visually see if I am on the right track and it's fun to see all the colors of this beautiful sweater! Thanks for all the help along the way-- I am on Row 21 now and it seems to be going along fine! Still on Chart A!!


----------



## CarolZ

I'm getting ready to start Chart B. So far it's going well.I'm doing my sweater in Vanna's Choice Dusty Blue color. Hopefully mine will turn out as well as some of the pictures you ladies have posted.


----------



## peachy51

I just started Chart C and so far, all's well


----------



## Jill2

I finished the body and have it blocking on a towel.
The blocking was a trick because of the bust and hip shaping, I wasn't exactly sure how I should position it on the towel....I'm sure this will not be the last time I block the body....just wanted to share where I'm at.

It measures large...sigh....I'm thinking that getting the exact gauge of the rows per inch is more important than the stitches per inch for the body of this sweater. I'll know more when it dries.


----------



## CarolZ

Jill2 said:


> I finished the body and have it blocking on a towel.
> The blocking was a trick because of the bust and hip shaping, I wasn't exactly sure how I should position it on the towel....I'm sure this will not be the last time I block the body....just wanted to share where I'm at.
> 
> It measures large...sigh....I'm thinking that getting the exact gauge of the rows per inch is more important than the stitches per inch for the body of this sweater. I'll know more when it dries.


Great job Jill! :thumbup: :thumbup:


----------



## Patchworkcat

Jill2 said:


> I finished the body and have it blocking on a towel.
> The blocking was a trick because of the bust and hip shaping, I wasn't exactly sure how I should position it on the towel....I'm sure this will not be the last time I block the body....just wanted to share where I'm at.
> 
> It measures large...sigh....I'm thinking that getting the exact gauge of the rows per inch is more important than the stitches per inch for the body of this sweater. I'll know more when it dries.


Great job! You inspire me ... even though I've started over from the cast on soooooooo many times. <lol> I'll get it done sooner or later.

Jill


----------



## Jill2

Patchworkcat said:


> Great job! You inspire me ... even though I've started over from the cast on soooooooo many times. <lol> I'll get it done sooner or later.
> 
> Jill


Thanks very much...but I fear a giant frog is in my future!


----------



## Joy8753

I'm a bit worried that horizontal cables across the back will make me look wider than I want to. I am considering doing a plain back with hip and waist shaping to follow the curve and make my waist look smaller, does anyone else feel the same about horizontal stripes?


----------



## Patchworkcat

Joy8753 said:


> I'm a bit worried that horizontal cables across the back will make me look wider than I want to. I am considering doing a plain back with hip and waist shaping to follow the curve and make my waist look smaller, does anyone else feel the same about horizontal stripes?


I most certainly do worry about that, but I think I'll just go with the pattern and see what happens. It's too beautiful just as it is to make that drastic a change ... for me.

Jill


----------



## toast

What yarn is everyone using to knit this sweater?


----------



## mom2grif

I'm concerned about the cables across the back as well. I'm too heavy as it is (and I'm not weighing in)


----------



## Patchworkcat

toast said:


> What yarn is everyone using to knit this sweater?


I'm using Cascade 220 Superwash in color 856. Can't remember the color name now, but I wanted blue and it's actually more on the teal side. Not bad, but not exactly what I had in mind. Too late now. I'll use it and be grateful I've got it. <lol>

Jill


----------



## Jill2

toast said:


> What yarn is everyone using to knit this sweater?


I used cascade 220... On sale at yarn.com in the discontinued yarn section.


----------



## mom2grif

Jill2 said:


> I finished the body and have it blocking on a towel.
> The blocking was a trick because of the bust and hip shaping, I wasn't exactly sure how I should position it on the towel....I'm sure this will not be the last time I block the body....just wanted to share where I'm at.
> 
> It measures large...sigh....I'm thinking that getting the exact gauge of the rows per inch is more important than the stitches per inch for the body of this sweater. I'll know more when it dries.


I'm getting 28 rows per 4", so I need to do some serious math before I start shaping. Although, I'm 46" and am knitting the 48" so it might work out fine.


----------



## beaz

Am starting my swatch on straight needles as I don't have the 7 in a circular. Can someone advise what length circular I should get...thanks


----------



## peachy51

beaz said:


> Am starting my swatch on straight needles as I don't have the 7 in a circular. Can someone advise what length circular I should get...thanks


I'm using a 32".


----------



## peachy51

Jill, yours is looking great! I'm not too far behind you, but I need to take a short break from the sweater and finish painting my bathroom ... ugh


----------



## Needleme

I am using the Cascade 220 as well, but not really enjoying the feel of it and I seem to be splitting quite a bit because I don't grab the strand cleanly when I am doing the increases. My color is Hollyberry. Wish it were a little softer.


----------



## Needleme

Jill2 said:


> I finished the body and have it blocking on a towel.
> The blocking was a trick because of the bust and hip shaping, I wasn't exactly sure how I should position it on the towel....I'm sure this will not be the last time I block the body....just wanted to share where I'm at.
> 
> It measures large...sigh....I'm thinking that getting the exact gauge of the rows per inch is more important than the stitches per inch for the body of this sweater. I'll know more when it dries.


Ooh, beautiful!! Thanks for posting!!


----------



## beaz

One more question: I am seeing all the oohing and ahhing but am not seeing and pics. Are they posted somewhere else?


----------



## Jill2

My sweater body is still damp and I've been playing around.....think this might be a better way to block the body since I was able to get the correct shape.


----------



## pinsandneedles

beaz said:


> One more question: I am seeing all the oohing and ahhing but am not seeing and pics. Are they posted somewhere else?


Yeah me too,guess I missed some posts and here I thought I had read them all, well guess we'll have to go back and do some research.


----------



## Carolinesol

Jill2 said:


> I finished the body and have it blocking on a towel.
> The blocking was a trick because of the bust and hip shaping, I wasn't exactly sure how I should position it on the towel....I'm sure this will not be the last time I block the body....just wanted to share where I'm at.
> 
> It measures large...sigh....I'm thinking that getting the exact gauge of the rows per inch is more important than the stitches per inch for the body of this sweater. I'll know more when it dries.


Wow. Well done.


----------



## Carolinesol

Jill2 said:


> My sweater body is still damp and I've been playing around.....think this might be a better way to block the body since I was able to get the correct shape.


That looks great. Well done.


----------



## Carole-Jayne

Jill2 said:


> My sweater body is still damp and I've been playing around.....think this might be a better way to block the body since I was able to get the correct shape.


I have only one word to say ...
W.O.W.
cj


----------



## charlenekbenton

Jill2.....it looks beautiful! I'm glad u posted both views.


----------



## Jessica-Jean

Jill2 said:


> My sweater body is still damp and I've been playing around.....think this might be a better way to block the body since I was able to get the correct shape.


Where's the emoticom for a wolf whistle??! That's looking fantastic!


----------



## Flybreit

CarolZ said:


> Great job Jill! :thumbup: :thumbup:


Beautiful!

I'm thinking the same thing you are about the rows per inch gauge - I think Erica mentioned that somewhere along the way, and if I were a more experienced knitter I would have realized that with a side ways knitted item.

So, I think before I go any further, I'll have another little gauge session.....


----------



## mom2grif

Flybreit said:


> Beautiful!
> 
> I'm thinking the same thing you are about the rows per inch gauge - I think Erica mentioned that somewhere along the way, and if I were a more experienced knitter I would have realized that with a side ways knitted item.
> 
> So, I think before I go any further, I'll have another little gauge session.....


That's what I'm doing right now.


----------



## Jill2

Thank you!


----------



## beaz

I think I would prefer less cables in the back, maybe just one at the bottom and the rest stockinette. But, it looks like the sides wrap around a bit.


----------



## peachy51

Just my personal opinion, but I think the sweater would look off balance if the cables just stopped at the underarm. That's the reason I so liked Erica's design over the original pic of the sweater.

How would you end the cables and go to stockinette and not have a stark break in the flow? In the original pic, they managed it with a side seam, but it still looks funny to me.


----------



## beaz

Well, I plan on going with the original and follow and learn from all of you if I can ever get past trying to achieve the right gauge. Just learned that knitting on straight needle can differ from knitting on circular, so it is back to circular.


----------



## charlenekbenton

Hey, Beaz....I must have missed the bit about knitting with circ needles differs from straight needles...I'm almost done with chart A using straight needles while waiting on my new circ size 8 needles arrive...please tell me what u learned, maybe I won't want to switch?


----------



## peachy51

charlenekbenton said:


> Hey, Beaz....I must have missed the bit about knitting with circ needles differs from straight needles...I'm almost done with chart A using straight needles while waiting on my new circ size 8 needles arrive...please tell me what u learned, maybe I won't want to switch?


Don't switch until you knit a swatch with the circs. For some reason I knit tighter with straight needles than I do with circs.


----------



## beaz

Since I cannot meet the required gauge after trying 3 different size straight needles, I started researching on the internet and that is where that came from. Normally I use circular but didn't have the right size but even after trying size 6, 7 and 8, the stitch stayed at 5. So now I am trying to get the gauge using my 16's circulars. After that, don't know what to do - I am getting frustrated.


----------



## Jessica-Jean

charlenekbenton said:


> Hey, Beaz....I must have missed the bit about knitting with circ needles differs from straight needles...I'm almost done with chart A using straight needles while waiting on my new circ size 8 needles arrive...please tell me what u learned, maybe I won't want to switch?


_Sometimes, some_ people have a different gauge when doing stockinette on straight needles versus on circulars. It depends on your purling. On straight needles, you purl alternate rows. On circulars, there's no purling; it's all knit rounds.

Swatching will tell the truth! But make those generous 6"-square swatches.


----------



## charlenekbenton

Have u tried a different yarn? Maybe that will help


----------



## charlenekbenton

Jessica-Jean....does that hold true when using circs but not joining rather using them as straights? I do plan on swatching when I get my new circs so we will see how that works out.
Thanks!!


----------



## peachy51

charlenekbenton said:


> Have u tried a different yarn? Maybe that will help


That is a definite possibility. After knitting to the bust shaping with the yarn I really wanted to knit this sweater with, I had to abort and start over as that yarn just didn't want to be this sweater.

It sounds like you may need a thicker yarn if you are getting 5 stitches to the inch. You know that not all worsteds are equal. :|


----------



## peachy51

charlenekbenton said:


> Jessica-Jean....does that hold true when using circs but not joining rather using them as straights? I do plan on swatching when I get my new circs so we will see how that works out.
> Thanks!!


It holds true for me. When I posted above that I knit tighter on straights than circulars, I was talking about knitting on the circs back and forth and not in the round.


----------



## mom2grif

I've started over. Dd some more gauge swatches and moved from size 7 to size 9 needles. With blocking, I'm pretty close to 21 rows/4". If it ends up a bit longer that's ok, cause I'm tall.


----------



## peachy51

mom2grif said:


> I've started over. Dd some more gauge swatches and moved from size 7 to size 9 needles. With blocking, I'm pretty close to 21 rows/4". If it ends up a bit longer that's ok, cause I'm tall.


Susan, because we are knitting this side to side instead of up and down, the number of rows will indicate how large or small the sweater is around.


----------



## Jessica-Jean

charlenekbenton said:


> Jessica-Jean....does that hold true when using circs but not joining rather using them as straights? I do plan on swatching when I get my new circs so we will see how that works out.
> Thanks!!


I've read about it, not actually measured anything I've knit to see if it holds true. I imagine that, because the tips - the solid part that you hold and brace in your hand - are shorter, one would work differently on circs - in the round or back-and-forth - than on straights. Or maybe that's only true if your glove size is 8" like mine. I absolutely _detest_ the interchangeable needle sets that have straight joins, because the metal-plastic join is bent too much as my hands try to brace its too-short length against the heel of my palm. This is why I stick with my Boye NeedleMaster and the neutral grey Teflon-coated circulars ... that have a bend in their longer-than-any-interchangeable set's tips. I have and don't care for some of the newer sets.


----------



## beaz

Thanks all. I will try the circulars and see what happens. Can't change yarn as I had a heck of a time finding this color. My daughter was very specific on color and was hard to find...I will keep trying. Maybe I will need to make adjustments in pattern.


----------



## mom2grif

peachy51 said:


> Susan, because we are knitting this side to side instead of up and down, the number of rows will indicate how large or small the sweater is around.


Yep, that's why I started over to get closer to row gauge being right. It was 28 rows per 4". My stitch gauge might be a bit big to get the row gauge right. That's why it might be a bit longer.


----------



## peachy51

mom2grif said:


> Yep, that's why I started over to get closer to row gauge being right. It was 28 rows per 4". My stitch gauge might be a bit big to get the row gauge right. That's why it might be a bit longer.


Ahhh ... gotcha now :mrgreen:


----------



## peachy51

I have a question for Erica ... or anyone else who wants to jump in here:

Since I started over with different yarn, I haven't knitted the sleeves yet (just started out with the body). I'm wondering how it would be if I wanted to put the same i-cord edging on the sleeve bottom that the body of the sweater will have instead of the hemmed sleeve bottom.

Any thoughts?


----------



## Bethe1

Peachy - I think it was some of both - the left edge is rolling a bit and the picture didn't show all of the left side. I have the correct number of stitches and it looks right, at least to my untrained eye. 



peachy51 said:


> It's looking good. One question tho. It may just be rolled under, but it doesn't look like all the left side increases are there or maybe the pic has just cut it off before the slant starts.
> 
> I love the color :thumbup:


----------



## peachy51

Bethe1 said:


> Peachy - I think it was some of both - the left edge is rolling a bit and the picture didn't show all of the left side. I have the correct number of stitches and it looks right, at least to my untrained eye.


Good Job! I just couldn't tell and wanted to alert you in case they weren't there before you got any further.


----------



## charlenekbenton

Okay, ladies....after reading all the posts pertaining to gauge, I started to question my gauge again.....In the beginning I had not swatched, rather I used my sleeves to swatch...the stitches per inch was amazingly right on, 17st/4" using straight US size 8 so when I found correct gauge "Stitch wise", I did not ck my row gauge so last evening, I remeasured & found my rows per inch measured 24rows/4" not the recommended 21rows/4" which would make my finished sweater larger circumference thus too large around. I chose to make the smallest size, 34 to fit my small frame.
I sent Erica a PM message giving her my body measurements & my row/inch gauge & she sent me back a message early this morning here's what she said: her sweater gauge measured the same 24rows/4" & when she blocked the sweater she pulled it longer which narrowed the circumference & also opened up the cables & her finished sweater was the correct size. 
SO, LONG STORY, SHORT VERSION: I am trusting that Erica knows best & am continuing to follow her brilliantly written pattern, & YES, Jessica-Jean, I will definitely swatch a 6" swatch to gauge when my new circs arrive prior to switching from straights to circs.....I am wanting to use circs in hopes it will better distibute the weight of this sweater so my thumb joints which have bone spurs do not bear the full weight....I am on row 40 of chart A & finding the straight needles are getting heavy! 
Thanks to all who comment on this forum, your thoughts & comments are so helpful!!


----------



## Carolinesol

peachy51 said:


> I have a question for Erica ... or anyone else who wants to jump in here:
> 
> Since I started over with different yarn, I haven't knitted the sleeves yet (just started out with the body). I'm wondering how it would be if I wanted to put the same i-cord edging on the sleeve bottom that the body of the sweater will have instead of the hemmed sleeve bottom.
> 
> Any thoughts?


Hi again. I have never done an I-cord in my life so I am a bit worried by it ! Can see your idea could be a good one though. Must look on you tube !


----------



## Charliedoodle

Can anyone suggest a neat way to increase a number of stitches at end of row. Just practising until my yarn arrives.


----------



## Jill2

Here's one way

http://techknitting.blogspot.com/2008/12/casting-on-additional-stitches-at-end.html

And here's another

http://verypink.com/2011/02/04/cable-cast-on/

Personally I prefer the second example.
The video shows starting a new project using the cable cast on, but you can also use it to add sts at the beginning of an existing row....just begin by inserting your right needle between the last two sts on your left needle, then do the next step as shown in the video.


----------



## beaz

Anyone have this problem with Knit Picks: I ordered and received a size 9 16" circular needle; however, when I checked with the measurement gauge, it is actually a 10. Packaging states size 9 as well as stamped on needle.


----------



## Jill2

beaz said:


> Anyone have this problem with Knit Picks: I ordered and received a size 9 16" circular needle; however, when I checked with the measurement gauge, it is actually a 10. Packaging states size 9 as well as stamped on needle.


Do you have more than one measurement gauge?

I have found they can vary quite a bit.

I found the same to be true with quilting rulers, so I stick with the same brand.


----------



## beaz

Guess I will to out and buy the ruler that measures both row and gauge along with needle size. Thanks for the tip


----------



## Charliedoodle

Thanks for the links. Will have a practice.


----------



## Carole-Jayne

Just to throw another gauge spanner in the works ..... your own personal 'tension' can affect your knitting 'tension'. For many people, if they are stressed, they knit tighter, when THEY relax, their knitting relaxs.

Listening here to the very supportive and informative discussion on gauge, I urge people who are struggling to RELAX, slow down, have a cup of green tea, look out of the window, stroke your pet, and then try your gauge. You might be one of the people affected by ""tension/tension" disorder <g>
cj


----------



## Jill2

Here is a picture of the back yoke sewn onto the back of the sweater.

This link may have already been posted, but just in case I'll post it again.
It shows various ways of stitching knits together and I found it very helpful.

http://www.vogueknitting.com/pattern_help/how-to/learn_to_knit/finishing/seaming.aspx

Since my sweater body seemed a bit large I did quite a bit of easing when sewing on the yoke.

I marked the center of the yoke bottom and lined it up with the center top of the back. Then I cut a long piece of yarn and started stitching at the midpoint, leaving a long tail so that once I finished the left side I could rethread my needle with the long tail and stitch the right side.

I'm happy with the results.


----------



## Carole-Jayne

You're doing a lovely job - well done, looks great.
cj


----------



## Carolinesol

Jill2 said:


> Here is a picture of the back yoke sewn onto the back of the sweater.
> 
> This link may have already been posted, but just in case I'll post it again.
> It shows various ways of stitching knits together and I found it very helpful.
> 
> http://www.vogueknitting.com/pattern_help/how-to/learn_to_knit/finishing/seaming.aspx
> 
> Since my sweater body seemed a bit large I did quite a bit of easing when sewing on the yoke.
> Looks really good.
> I marked the center of the yoke bottom and lined it up with the center top of the back. Then I cut a long piece of yarn and started stitching at the midpoint, leaving a long tail so that once I finished the left side I could rethread my needle with the long tail and stitch the right side.
> 
> I'm happy with the results.


----------



## RobbiD

Jill2 said:


> I finished the body and have it blocking on a towel.
> The blocking was a trick because of the bust and hip shaping, I wasn't exactly sure how I should position it on the towel....I'm sure this will not be the last time I block the body....just wanted to share where I'm at.
> 
> It measures large...sigh....I'm thinking that getting the exact gauge of the rows per inch is more important than the stitches per inch for the body of this sweater. I'll know more when it dries.


Beautiful Jill. Love the color, and you have done such a great job! :thumbup:


----------



## RobbiD

toast said:


> What yarn is everyone using to knit this sweater?


I am using Bernat Satin (acrylic, machine washable and dryable--Honey helps with the laundry ;-) ) in Stone-a very dark gray, but the cables are showing up beautifully.


----------



## Jill2

RobbiD said:


> I am using Bernat Satin (acrylic, machine washable and dryable--Honey helps with the laundry ;-) ) in Stone-a very dark gray, but the cables are showing up beautifully.


Looking Great! Love the color and the fact that 'honey' helps with the laundry!
Whatta guy!!


----------



## beaz

Back to my mismarked needle, I went to Walmart with my Knit Pick needle in hand and it measured a size 10. I had to buy a cheapie needle just so I could get started but I did check the gauge and it was right on...so now I will try the size 9 and see what it looks like. Still waiting to hear back from Knit Picks.


----------



## RobbiD

peachy51 said:


> I have a question for Erica ... or anyone else who wants to jump in here:
> 
> Since I started over with different yarn, I haven't knitted the sleeves yet (just started out with the body). I'm wondering how it would be if I wanted to put the same i-cord edging on the sleeve bottom that the body of the sweater will have instead of the hemmed sleeve bottom.
> 
> Any thoughts?


Peachy51, I started straight into the body of the sweater, as well. I had the same thought about the I-cord around the bottom of the sleeves, along with toying with the idea of knitting the sleeves top-down on dpn's, as I hate to sew in sleeves. I did this on a christening gown I just finished, and loved the way it looked. I figure I have plenty of time to decide...still have to finish the body and top pieces first 
:lol:


----------



## RobbiD

Jill2 said:


> Looking Great! Love the color and the fact that 'honey' helps with the laundry!
> Whatta guy!!


Yeah, he's a "keeper". He's also the one talked me into this project. He even picked the color!  Now a question for you... Wanna come do my seaming??? :lol: You do beautiful work, Jill.


----------



## beaz

RobbiD said:


> Peachy51, I started straight into the body of the sweater, as well. I had the same thought about the I-cord around the bottom of the sleeves, along with toying with the idea of knitting the sleeves top-down on dpn's, as I hate to sew in sleeves. I did this on a christening gown I just finished, and loved the way it looked. I figure I have plenty of time to decide...still have to finish the body and top pieces first
> :lol:


I am thinking about knitting sleeves top down too. Here is a link how to do it that I find very interesting:


----------



## RobbiD

beaz said:


> I am thinking about knitting sleeves top down too. Here is a link how to do it that I find very interesting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi beaz, yep, that's the one I used. It worked out very well.


----------



## Jill2

RobbiD said:


> Yeah, he's a "keeper". He's also the one talked me into this project. He even picked the color! Now a question for you... Wanna come do my seaming??? :lol: You do beautiful work, Jill.


Thank you Robbi!

I love that 'honey' encourages you....mine does too.

Check out the link I posted on seaming.....it is very well done and really made it come together perfectly. 
When you start to sew your seams, try leaving the first several stitches relatively loose....this will make it easier for you to see where to insert your needle with each additional stitch. Then after making around 10 stitches, pull on your thread and the stitches will magically close up. You will have to do some adjusting until you get them all pulled closed without actually pulling the seam too tight.

After closing up a series of stitches I gently reopen the seam at the last stitch I made so that I can again see where to insert my needle for the next stitches.

Your sweater is looking great!


----------



## elilashley

RobbiD: Are you making the extension of the ST. st. in the front of your sweater? It has great definition of your cables.
eli lashley


----------



## RobbiD

Jill2 said:


> Thank you Robbi!
> 
> I love that 'honey' encourages you....mine does too.
> 
> Check out the link I posted on seaming.....it is very well done and really made it come together perfectly.
> When you start to sew your seams, try leaving the first several stitches relatively loose....this will make it easier for you to see where to insert your needle with each additional stitch. Then after making around 10 stitches, pull on your thread and the stitches will magically close up. You will have to do some adjusting until you get them all pulled closed without actually pulling the seam too tight.
> 
> After closing up a series of stitches I gently reopen the seam at the last stitch I made so that I can again see where to insert my needle for the next stitches.
> 
> Your sweater is looking great!


Thanks Jill. I had already bookmarked that same link, and actually copied and pasted it into a word doc. Our internet sometimes decides to take a vacation at the most inopportune times, if ya know what I mean. But I think your method of leaving stitches a little loose, so you can see where you're going, then tightening them, sounds really sensible. I'm definitely gonna do that when I start assembly. Thanks for the tip.


----------



## Jessica-Jean

beaz said:


> Anyone have this problem with Knit Picks: I ordered and received a size 9 16" circular needle; however, when I checked with the measurement gauge, it is actually a 10. Packaging states size 9 as well as stamped on needle.


Unless you are using a vernier caliper to measure and metric sizing, there's a very wide variation between both the knitting needles and the needle gauges. Add to that the variations across time and between manufacturers ... Go metric! Ignore the too-variable US sizing system altogether!


----------



## ElegantDetails

WOW Jill
that is spectacular!! You give us hope that we can get there too!!



Jill2 said:


> My sweater body is still damp and I've been playing around.....think this might be a better way to block the body since I was able to get the correct shape.


----------



## janwalla

Joy8753 said:


> I'm a bit worried that horizontal cables across the back will make me look wider than I want to. I am considering doing a plain back with hip and waist shaping to follow the curve and make my waist look smaller, does anyone else feel the same about horizontal stripes?


I think if anyone check's out you from behind, the only thing going through their mind is WOW that jumper/cardigan is lovely, They will immediately hurry on round to the front to ask you where you got it!! LOL Don't worry My sister and I are on the large side and she loves stripes and always looks great in them. I am like you and believe they make you look larger, but honestly I dont think it makes any difference at all, especially when they are a solid colour, they just blend in! Knit it as is and wear it with pride!! It will look brilliant!! (anyway if you are anything like me plain backs show up all the lumps and bumps!!) :lol: :lol:


----------



## janwalla

peachy51 said:


> I have a question for Erica ... or anyone else who wants to jump in here:
> 
> Since I started over with different yarn, I haven't knitted the sleeves yet (just started out with the body). I'm wondering how it would be if I wanted to put the same i-cord edging on the sleeve bottom that the body of the sweater will have instead of the hemmed sleeve bottom.
> 
> Any thoughts?


I was thinking that too! You could do a provisional cast on, so the stitches will be live for when you add the i cord. Or pick up and knit i cord from cast on edge like the body?

I love all your cardi's the colours are lovely and everyone's are sooooo neat! I hope I manage ok, Ive frogged umpteen times and now my yarn is in such a tangle ive put it away and have been finishing WIP's. I will get to it again soon though, you have spurred me on!! Ive decided to make the first one for my daughter as she is lovely and slim and it will be less to knit!! lol


----------



## Joy8753

janwalla said:


> I think if anyone check's out you from behind, the only thing going through their mind is WOW that jumper/cardigan is lovely, They will immediately hurry on round to the front to ask you where you got it!! LOL Don't worry My sister and I are on the large side and she loves stripes and always looks great in them. I am like you and believe they make you look larger, but honestly I dont think it makes any difference at all, especially when they are a solid colour, they just blend in! Knit it as is and wear it with pride!! It will look brilliant!! (anyway if you are anything like me plain backs show up all the lumps and bumps!!) :lol: :lol:


 :lol:


----------



## Flybreit

RobbiD said:


> Peachy51, I started straight into the body of the sweater, as well. I had the same thought about the I-cord around the bottom of the sleeves, along with toying with the idea of knitting the sleeves top-down on dpn's, as I hate to sew in sleeves. I did this on a christening gown I just finished, and loved the way it looked. I figure I have plenty of time to decide...still have to finish the body and top pieces first
> :lol:


What about a cable around the bottom of the sleeve?


----------



## janwalla

Flybreit said:


> What about a cable around the bottom of the sleeve?


OOo I fancy that! It would set it off really good, Im soo pleased ive frogged now !!


----------



## Flybreit

janwalla said:


> OOo I fancy that! It would set it off really good, Im soo pleased ive frogged now !!


 :lol: can't wait to see pictures!

I was also toying with running a cable vertically up the sleeve but want to wait until the body of the sweater is finished - I might like it around the bottom better.


----------



## questmiller

Jill2 said:


> Here is a picture of the back yoke sewn onto the back of the sweater.
> 
> This link may have already been posted, but just in case I'll post it again.
> It shows various ways of stitching knits together and I found it very helpful.
> 
> http://www.vogueknitting.com/pattern_help/how-to/learn_to_knit/finishing/seaming.aspx
> 
> Since my sweater body seemed a bit large I did quite a bit of easing when sewing on the yoke.
> 
> Your back looks so nice! I'm just to the upper back section and have a question about the short row section. Am I reading it right if I :
> Knit 4 do a short row turn back, then knit 8 do a short row back, then knit 16 do a short row back and then knit 20 and do a final short row back? Ten knit to the other side and repeat on the purl side?


----------



## peachy51

charlenekbenton said:


> Okay, ladies....after reading all the posts pertaining to gauge, I started to question my gauge again.....In the beginning I had not swatched, rather I used my sleeves to swatch...the stitches per inch was amazingly right on, 17st/4" using straight US size 8 so when I found correct gauge "Stitch wise", I did not ck my row gauge so last evening, I remeasured & found my rows per inch measured 24rows/4" not the recommended 21rows/4" which would make my finished sweater larger circumference thus too large around. I chose to make the smallest size, 34 to fit my small frame.
> I sent Erica a PM message giving her my body measurements & my row/inch gauge & she sent me back a message early this morning here's what she said: her sweater gauge measured the same 24rows/4" & when she blocked the sweater she pulled it longer which narrowed the circumference & also opened up the cables & her finished sweater was the correct size.
> SO, LONG STORY, SHORT VERSION: I am trusting that Erica knows best & am continuing to follow her brilliantly written pattern, & YES, Jessica-Jean, I will definitely swatch a 6" swatch to gauge when my new circs arrive prior to switching from straights to circs.....I am wanting to use circs in hopes it will better distibute the weight of this sweater so my thumb joints which have bone spurs do not bear the full weight....I am on row 40 of chart A & finding the straight needles are getting heavy!
> Thanks to all who comment on this forum, your thoughts & comments are so helpful!!


Charlene -- if you are getting more stitches an inch than gauge calls for, your piece is going to be smaller ... not larger.

Example: If your gauge calls for 4 stitches per inch that means with 20 stitches you are going to have 5 inches and if you are getting 5 stitches per inch with 20 stitches you are only going to have 4 inches. This would mean that you would lose an inch with every 20 stitches.

If you are coming up short, you can probably block to size, depending on your yarn.


----------



## peachy51

Jill2 said:


> Here is a picture of the back yoke sewn onto the back of the sweater.
> 
> This link may have already been posted, but just in case I'll post it again.
> It shows various ways of stitching knits together and I found it very helpful.
> 
> http://www.vogueknitting.com/pattern_help/how-to/learn_to_knit/finishing/seaming.aspx
> 
> Since my sweater body seemed a bit large I did quite a bit of easing when sewing on the yoke.
> 
> I marked the center of the yoke bottom and lined it up with the center top of the back. Then I cut a long piece of yarn and started stitching at the midpoint, leaving a long tail so that once I finished the left side I could rethread my needle with the long tail and stitch the right side.
> 
> I'm happy with the results.


Jill, you should be very happy  Your sweater is looking gorgeous! :thumbup:


----------



## peachy51

RobbiD said:


> I am using Bernat Satin (acrylic, machine washable and dryable--Honey helps with the laundry ;-) ) in Stone-a very dark gray, but the cables are showing up beautifully.


Yours is looking great Robbie. And your cables are standing out very nicely! :thumbup:


----------



## peachy51

RobbiD said:


> Peachy51, I started straight into the body of the sweater, as well. I had the same thought about the I-cord around the bottom of the sleeves, along with toying with the idea of knitting the sleeves top-down on dpn's, as I hate to sew in sleeves. I did this on a christening gown I just finished, and loved the way it looked. I figure I have plenty of time to decide...still have to finish the body and top pieces first
> :lol:


I would be interested in the top down on the sleeves too. I 've never done that and would like to see how it works.


----------



## peachy51

beaz said:


> I am thinking about knitting sleeves top down too. Here is a link how to do it that I find very interesting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for the link, beaz :thumbup:


----------



## peachy51

Flybreit said:


> What about a cable around the bottom of the sleeve?


I'm thinking that might make the bottom of the sleeve a little bulkier than I want. But since we are putting the i-cord around the sweater rim, putting one on the sleeve would add some continuity.


----------



## Jill2

questmiller said:


> Jill2 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a picture of the back yoke sewn onto the back of the sweater.
> 
> This link may have already been posted, but just in case I'll post it again.
> It shows various ways of stitching knits together and I found it very helpful.
> 
> http://www.vogueknitting.com/pattern_help/how-to/learn_to_knit/finishing/seaming.aspx
> 
> Since my sweater body seemed a bit large I did quite a bit of easing when sewing on the yoke.
> 
> Your back looks so nice! I'm just to the upper back section and have a question about the short row section. Am I reading it right if I :
> Knit 4 do a short row turn back, then knit 8 do a short row back, then knit 16 do a short row back and then knit 20 and do a final short row back? Ten knit to the other side and repeat on the purl side?
> 
> 
> 
> I had to think a bit on this one too.....
> Worked the way you described, I think the outside edges would be higher than the middle....you would be working more rows along the outside than you would be in the middle.
> 
> I worked it like this....
> Knit until you are 4 sts from the end...turn
> Purl until you are 4 sts from the end...turn
> Knit until 8 sts from end...turn
> Purl until 8 sts from end...turn. (At this point you have worked 2 pairs)
> Knit until 12 sts from end...turn
> Purl until 12 sts from end....turn
> 
> Then 16 sts.....then 20 sts.
> 
> Make sense?
Click to expand...


----------



## Carolinesol

Quick question. On the upper right front you work 3(4,5,6,6,7,8) rows even at the end just before you cast off, on the left front it does not say to work these rows...... Have I misread it ? Will it not make one side shorter ?


----------



## Jill2

Carolinesol said:


> Quick question. On the upper right front you work 3(4,5,6,6,7,8) rows even at the end just before you cast off, on the left front it does not say to work these rows...... Have I misread it ? Will it not make one side shorter ?


Hmmm....good question....I was just getting ready to cast on the right front.
Knowing Erica I doubt this is an error....maybe has something to do with the overlap for the button closure?

The left front fit perfectly....I'm going to trust the pattern and see what unveils.


----------



## Carolinesol

Jill2 said:


> Hmmm....good question....I was just getting ready to cast on the right front.
> Knowing Erica I doubt this is an error....maybe has something to do with the overlap for the button closure?
> 
> The left front fit perfectly....I'm going to trust the pattern and see what unveils.


Thanks for response. As no one else has mentioned it I expect its right. Think I might be getting a bit tired for tonight !


----------



## Bethe1

Light bulb!!! Just figured out the cable crossing cheat sheet! )))


----------



## peachy51

Bethe1 said:


> Light bulb!!! Just figured out the cable crossing cheat sheet! )))


LOL ... I felt pretty smug too when I figured it out! :mrgreen:

Right now, I have abandoned knitting for the day and am sanding the cabinets in my guest bath. And after running the electric sander for an hour, I now feel like Goldie Hawn in Overboard .... BUH BUH BUH BUH BUH ... LOL :lol:


----------



## Jill2

Bethe1 said:


> Light bulb!!! Just figured out the cable crossing cheat sheet! )))


Super! It's a great tool, don't you think?


----------



## questmiller

Jill2 said:


> I had to think a bit on this one too.....
> Worked the way you described, I think the outside edges would be higher than the middle....you would be working more rows along the outside than you would be in the middle.
> 
> I worked it like this....
> Knit until you are 4 sts from the end...turn
> Purl until you are 4 sts from the end...turn
> Knit until 8 sts from end...turn
> Purl until 8 sts from end...turn. (At this point you have worked 2 pairs)
> Knit until 12 sts from end...turn
> Purl until 12 sts from end....turn
> 
> Then 16 sts.....then 20 sts.
> 
> Make sense?[/quote
> Duh, of course. Thanks so much. I would have figured out my error, sooner or later, but now I won't have to tink. I appreciate your quick response.


----------



## Jill2

Carolinesol said:


> Thanks for response. As no one else has mentioned it I expect its right. Think I might be getting a bit tired for tonight !


I just finished the upper right front. When I reached the last part where it reads to work even rows, I compared it to the left upper front ...it appeared to be the correct size and shape at that point so I did not work the even rows. It's an easy fix if I've made an error in judgement. :?


----------



## gdhavens

The cable cross cheat sheet is wonderful. The squiggly lines on each side represent the short rows, left hand side are the hip shaping and the right side of the sheet is the bust shaping; and the red dots represent where you do the cable twist. The bottom half of the sheet is for the right hand side of the sweater short rows and the top half are for the left hand side of the sweater short rows.


----------



## beaz

How do I get to the original postings on this sweater? I am looking or the pic of Erica's front view of sweater. All the old postings seem to be gone.


----------



## gdhavens

search under "Do you recognize this pattern"posted by CaROLE-JAYNE on Nov 5, 2012. This was the original request for a pattern for the sweater.


----------



## peachy51

beaz said:


> How do I get to the original postings on this sweater? I am looking or the pic of Erica's front view of sweater. All the old postings seem to be gone.


Erica's pics are on this page and the page after:

http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-122378-28.html


----------



## beaz

peachy51 said:


> Erica's pics are on this page and the page after:
> 
> http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-122378-28.html


Thank you very much, Peachy


----------



## maryannn

gdhavens said:


> The cable cross cheat sheet is wonderful. The squiggly lines on each side represent the short rows, left hand side are the hip shaping and the right side of the sheet is the bust shaping; and the red dots represent where you do the cable twist. The bottom half of the sheet is for the right hand side of the sweater short rows and the top half are for the left hand side of the sweater short rows.


I agree with Darla. The cheat sheet is great. I was wondering how I was going to keep the cable twists straight. Now I know.

Darla keeps me straight. Thanks so much.

Mary Ann


----------



## ElegantDetails

I think I have answered my own ??..It was dealing with the gauge...st per rows
Mine too was 24".... I think I will continue and hope to block into to the correct size ?????!!!!!


mom2grif said:


> I've started over. Dd some more gauge swatches and moved from size 7 to size 9 needles. With blocking, I'm pretty close to 21 rows/4". If it ends up a bit longer that's ok, cause I'm tall.


----------



## Needleme

Aaarrrgh! Had a spasm on my needles on a cable row and dropped a stitch which slipped a few rows down. I knew I could not recapture my hitherto perfect count, so I had to frog it completely. WAH! Must start again!


----------



## peachy51

Needleme said:


> Aaarrrgh! Had a spasm on my needles on a cable row and dropped a stitch which slipped a few rows down. I knew I could not recapture my hitherto perfect count, so I had to frog it completely. WAH! Must start again!


Oh, No! :shock: You'll catch back up pretty quickly tho. I got all the way to bust shaping and started over. Went much quicker the second time! ;-)


----------



## Flybreit

Needleme, I have frogged to - didn't like the way my increases looked. :shock: 

But, have you ever used a small crochet hook to pick up those dropped stitches and work them back up to the current row? 

It's amazingly easy once you try it. Before I frogged, I realized I had purled a couple of stitches that were supposed to be knitted - 12 rows of them! I took it one stitch at a time, undid them and worked them back as knit stitches with my crochet hook. 

I guess we'll be re-knitting together. :roll:


----------



## Marienkaeferoma

peachy51 said:


> LOL ... I felt pretty smug too when I figured it out! :mrgreen:
> 
> Right now, I have abandoned knitting for the day and am sanding the cabinets in my guest bath. And after running the electric sander for an hour, I now feel like Goldie Hawn in Overboard .... BUH BUH BUH BUH BUH ... LOL :lol:


I love it when she goes Buh, Buh, Buh, Buh, Buh. (spoken in a PeeWee Herman type voice, of course. )


----------



## questmiller

Needleme said:


> Aaarrrgh! Had a spasm on my needles on a cable row and dropped a stitch which slipped a few rows down. I knew I could not recapture my hitherto perfect count, so I had to frog it completely. WAH! Must start again!


I'm so sorry that you had to frog. Something that I learned a few months ago was how to fix an error when doing cables. You isolate the offending cable (use another needle to hold the stitches to the right of the cable and push the stitches to the left of the cable back a ways on the needle.) Then take a deep breath and drop the cable stitches off the needle. Make sure that the good stitches on the left are far from falling off your needles now. Let it run down to the mistake. Assuming that you are working an eight stitch cable, you simply do what the pattern called for at that section -- slip the first 4 stitches to a cable needle, (hold it in the front or back of your work depending on what your pattern says and then knit the other 4 stitches using the lowest ladder at the back. Then knit the stitches from the cable needle. There is no need to do a return purl row. Simply work the stitches in the front right to left as knits. It does get a bit tight knitting the ladder, but the stitches will fit back together again nicely. Just keep working up the ladders to the top. Voila. 
Here's a video -- this woman is using double pointed needles, but you can get the idea: http://www.ehow.com/video_4976526_advanced-knitting-fixing-cables-ripping.html


----------



## RobbiD

elilashley said:


> RobbiD: Are you making the extension of the ST. st. in the front of your sweater? It has great definition of your cables.
> eli lashley


elilashley, thank you for the compliment. I added another 5 sts to the stockinette border at the bottom of the sweater (to the left of the marker). I'm afraid the days of me showing off my tummy ended 40 years ago :lol: By sheer coincidence, it makes the bottom border almost a match to the stockinette "stripes" that are in between the cables. You'ld almost think I had planned it that way lol! The color is actually a little darker than the picture shows, so I am really happy that the stitch definition is showing so well. Maybe it's because the yarn has a nice sheen to it?


----------



## RobbiD

Flybreit said:


> :lol: can't wait to see pictures!
> 
> I was also toying with running a cable vertically up the sleeve but want to wait until the body of the sweater is finished - I might like it around the bottom better.


Flybreit, what a great idea about the cable around the hem of the sleeve!!! I like it. I think one going vertically up the sleeve might be too much of a contrast though, with all the other cables running horizontal ( or nearly). Just my 2 cents worth.


----------



## RobbiD

" I hope I manage ok, Ive frogged umpteen times and now my yarn is in such a tangle ive put it away and have been finishing WIP's. I will get to it again soon though, you have spurred me on!! Ive decided to make the first one for my daughter as she is lovely and slim and it will be less to knit!! lol"

Janwalla you will do just fine! Life lines, stitch markers, whatever it takes, I'm sure you will get it. My biggest problem, *so far*, has been understanding the cable cheat sheet. I finally got it :idea: when I abandoned the chart and just followed the cheat sheet and the written instructions for the hip and bust shaping. Of course I have only finished the right side shapings, the left side is tomorrow's project. Perseverance *does* payoff.


----------



## RobbiD

peachy51 said:


> Yours is looking great Robbie. And your cables are standing out very nicely! :thumbup:


Thanks, Peachy. Jill2 posted a youtube link that I have watched before. I did top down sleeves on a christening gown a few weeks ago. I really liked the way they turned out. I really dislike sewing set in sleeves. I think you may get to the sleeves before I do, so if you decide on top down, let me know. Maybe we can muddle trough them together?


----------



## RobbiD

Jill2 said:


> I had to think a bit on this one too.....
> Worked the way you described, I think the outside edges would be higher than the middle....you would be working more rows along the outside than you would be in the middle.
> 
> I worked it like this....
> Knit until you are 4 sts from the end...turn
> Purl until you are 4 sts from the end...turn
> Knit until 8 sts from end...turn
> Purl until 8 sts from end...turn. (At this point you have worked 2 pairs)
> Knit until 12 sts from end...turn
> Purl until 12 sts from end....turn
> 
> Then 16 sts.....then 20 sts.
> 
> Make sense?


Jill, I am so glad you posted this. While rereading the pattern today, I saw that portion of the back and said "wha' the? " :shock: Thanks for explaining so well.


----------



## RobbiD

questmiller said:


> I'm so sorry that you had to frog. Something that I learned a few months ago was how to fix an error when doing cables. You isolate the offending cable (use another needle to hold the stitches to the right of the cable and push the stitches to the left of the cable back a ways on the needle.) Then take a deep breath and drop the cable stitches off the needle. Make sure that the good stitches on the left are far from falling off your needles now. Let it run down to the mistake. Assuming that you are working an eight stitch cable, you simply do what the pattern called for at that section -- slip the first 4 stitches to a cable needle, (hold it in the front or back of your work depending on what your pattern says and then knit the other 4 stitches using the lowest ladder at the back. Then knit the stitches from the cable needle. There is no need to do a return purl row. Simply work the stitches in the front right to left as knits. It does get a bit tight knitting the ladder, but the stitches will fit back together again nicely. Just keep working up the ladders to the top. Voila.
> Here's a video -- this woman is using double pointed needles, but you can get the idea: http://www.ehow.com/video_4976526_advanced-knitting-fixing-cables-ripping.html


questmiller, that's what I do, too. With the dpn's. Who'dathunk they had a youtube video of it. I always thought I was a genius for thinking it up :lol: I hate to frog if I can possibly avoid it


----------



## Erica Patberg

There is an error in the pattern. Thanks to Jill for spotting it! Luckily it's easy to spot and avoid, and I'll post a corrected PDF later today. 
Right front reads "work 3(4,5,6,6,7,8) rows even, then bind off". Quite simply don't work the extra rows. I intended to take these out to make the fronts lay more smoothly.


----------



## Needleme

peachy51 said:


> Oh, No! :shock: You'll catch back up pretty quickly tho. I got all the way to bust shaping and started over. Went much quicker the second time! ;-)


Good to know!


----------



## Needleme

Flybreit said:


> Needleme, I have frogged to - didn't like the way my increases looked. :shock:
> 
> But, have you ever used a small crochet hook to pick up those dropped stitches and work them back up to the current row?
> 
> It's amazingly easy once you try it. Before I frogged, I realized I had purled a couple of stitches that were supposed to be knitted - 12 rows of them! I took it one stitch at a time, undid them and worked them back as knit stitches with my crochet hook.
> 
> I guess we'll be re-knitting together. :roll:


I have done that-- but with the twist and the darned stitch disappearing, I felt unsure about trying to rescue it! Ah, well, it's all about enjoying the process and learning! 
So, "Cast on 22 stitches..." Here I go again!!


----------



## AverilC

I have just come back from 2 weeks of a family emergency in cornwall and find that I have pages and pages to read through, let alone get my yarn wound and the pattern knitted. 

Must catch up on a few chores first and gazillions of emails then i will get a cup of coffee and catch up with all that has been happening in the KP world.


----------



## Jill2

Erica Patberg said:


> There is an error in the pattern. Thanks to Jill for spotting it! Luckily it's easy to spot and avoid, and I'll post a corrected PDF later today.
> Right front reads "work 3(4,5,6,6,7,8) rows even, then bind off". Quite simply don't work the extra rows. I intended to take these out to make the fronts lay more smoothly.


Actually, I only wrote the note to Erica, it was Carolinesol that brought it to my attention.
Thanks Carolinesol!


----------



## Carolinesol

Jill2 said:


> Actually, I only wrote the note to Erica, it was Carolinesol that brought it to my attention.
> Thanks Carolinesol!


Thanks for that. I am glad I noticed it.


----------



## Jill2

Carolinesol said:


> Thanks for that. I am glad I noticed it.


So am I!

My yokes are finished and sewn in place. 
My sleeves are too tight so will redo. 
Today we are going into town (San Antonio) and 
I will shop for buttons. 
Please let me know when you start your 
Applied I-cord as I have a question. 
Thanks.


----------



## mom2grif

Jill2 said:


> So am I!
> 
> My yokes are finished and sewn in place.
> My sleeves are too tight so will redo.
> Today we are going into town (San Antonio) and
> I will shop for buttons.
> Please let me know when you start your
> Applied I-cord as I have a question.
> Thanks.


See Jill, that's what you get for being so speedy to finish your sweater! You have to wait for others to catch up to help you with your questions. 
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:


----------



## Carolinesol

Jill2 said:


> So am I!
> 
> My yokes are finished and sewn in place.
> My sleeves are too tight so will redo.
> Today we are going into town (San Antonio) and
> I will shop for buttons.
> Please let me know when you start your
> Applied I-cord as I have a question.
> Thanks.


I had never even heard of an I-cord before this project let alone done one !!!!
Shame about your sleeves. I need to block mine as done other bits now.


----------



## lulu11

the icord is easy just time consuming


----------



## Carolinesol

lulu11 said:


> the icord is easy just time consuming


I will look on you tube.


----------



## Carolinesol

Jill2 said:


> My sweater body is still damp and I've been playing around.....think this might be a better way to block the body since I was able to get the correct shape.


Hi Jill2. I don't usually bother with blocking! But have tried. What do you think does it look ok to you? I am afraid it might have come out a bit on the big side.
I have sprayed it and while waiting for it to dry will look at how to do I-cords.


----------



## mom2grif

Carolinesol said:


> Hi Jill2. I don't usually bother with blocking! But have tried. What do you think does it look ok to you? I am afraid it might have come out a bit on the big side.
> I have sprayed it and while waiting for it to dry will look at how to do I-cords.


Gorgeous! I'm so jealous! Wish mine was that far along!


----------



## Carolinesol

mom2grif said:


> Gorgeous! I'm so jealous! Wish mine was that far along!


Thanks for that ... Still really worried about the I-cord thingy.


----------



## mom2grif

I've done applied I-cord. Haven't read up to that point but doing the applied I-cord in and of itself is easy. The important thing it seems to me is to pick up the right amount of stitches along the edge, so you don't have puckering or stretching. You've done the hard part!!! You can do this!


----------



## charlenekbenton

Ohhh, Carolinesol, your sweater looks beautiful I love the color!!


----------



## CarolZ

Carolinesol said:


> Hi Jill2. I don't usually bother with blocking! But have tried. What do you think does it look ok to you? I am afraid it might have come out a bit on the big side.
> I have sprayed it and while waiting for it to dry will look at how to do I-cords.


Gorgeous! Love your color!


----------



## maryannn

Carolinesol said:


> Hi Jill2. I don't usually bother with blocking! But have tried. What do you think does it look ok to you? I am afraid it might have come out a bit on the big side.
> I have sprayed it and while waiting for it to dry will look at how to do I-cords.


Caroline your knitting looks perfect. So does Jill's.
I wish that I was as far along.
Mary Ann


----------



## peachy51

Question on the front. For those of you who have the fronts done, are they both the same width? I'm asking because I don't think I would ever button mine, so I'm thinking of making it without the buttons and buttonholes ... like a little buttonless jacket?

Would that work?


----------



## beaz

I am still swatching for the umpteenth time; this time on size 9's and get 16 stitches and 22 rows. Will try one more time concentrating on my tension before I will consider calling it quits.


----------



## sewknitbeadgrandma

peachy51 said:


> Question on the front. For those of you who have the fronts done, are they both the same width? I'm asking because I don't think I would ever button mine, so I'm thinking of making it without the buttons and buttonholes ... like a little buttonless jacket?
> 
> Would that work?


I think the design of the radiating cables would be lost as a buttonless jacket. Let's see it on you to make better judgement. Just my opinion.

BTW the sweater looks lovely.


----------



## peachy51

beaz said:


> I am still swatching for the umpteenth time; this time on size 9's and get 16 stitches and 22 rows. Will try one more time concentrating on my tension before I will consider calling it quits.


It sounds like you need an 8. You are only off 1 stitch each way.


----------



## Carolinesol

Thanks ladies. We are all going to do fantastic, wonderful, beautiful and unique sweaters. X


----------



## Jill2

Carolinesol said:


> Hi Jill2. I don't usually bother with blocking! But have tried. What do you think does it look ok to you? I am afraid it might have come out a bit on the big side.
> I have sprayed it and while waiting for it to dry will look at how to do I-cords.


Oh my!!! Your sweater is gorgeous!!
I love the color. Everything looks perfect!!
When I initially blocked my body, I thought 
It was going to be too large also, but after 
sewing on the yokes and weaving the shoulder
seams I was able to try it on and I think it
will be fine. Hope you find the same true.

I have done several applied I-cords, like already 
mentioned, they are easy but time consuming. 
After you read Erica's directions and are ready to start, let's talk again.

Well done!!!


----------



## Patchworkcat

peachy51 said:


> Question on the front. For those of you who have the fronts done, are they both the same width? I'm asking because I don't think I would ever button mine, so I'm thinking of making it without the buttons and buttonholes ... like a little buttonless jacket?
> 
> Would that work?


Should I *ever* get that far, I won't be putting buttons/buttonholes on mine either. Seems a waste of time and effort, since I never close up my sweaters or jackets. Buttoning a sweater just emphasizes that which I'd rather not.

Jill


----------



## beaz

Peachy: I was on a size 8 and couldn't do it. Weren't you the one who went to a size 9?


----------



## RobbiD

Carolinesol said:


> Hi Jill2. I don't usually bother with blocking! But have tried. What do you think does it look ok to you? I am afraid it might have come out a bit on the big side.
> I have sprayed it and while waiting for it to dry will look at how to do I-cords.


Carolinesol, I am soooo jealous. Your sweater is absolutely gorgeous! I am nowhere near that far along. I have never blocked anything. Is it necessary with acrylics? I used to see (many years ago) man-made fibers labeled as "self-blocking". I guess I thought that was still true. If blocking IS necessary, any advice on blocking acrylic?


----------



## RobbiD

beaz said:


> Peachy: I was on a size 8 and couldn't do it. Weren't you the one who went to a size 9?


Beaz, this may be a dumb question but...
Do you by chance have another set of needles, same size but different manufacturer? They might be just enough "different" to make a difference? I have found this has happened to me. Beats giving up on the project. I might just continue at the gauge you have achieved, and make minor adjustments when blocking. Maybe?


----------



## peachy51

beaz said:


> Peachy: I was on a size 8 and couldn't do it. Weren't you the one who went to a size 9?


No, I was on an 8 with the original yarn I wanted to use (the one of aborted) and with the yarn I'm using now, it's thicker, so I had to go to a 7.

You do have an odd situation because you are one stitch short on your width but one stitch over on the height. Height matters a lot on this sweater since the bulk of the body is knit sideways.

You might have to go to the needle that gives you the correct height for the main body and then go to the needle that gives you the correct width for the added stockinette pieces (upper back and front).


----------



## Jill2

I just found my buttons. 
They are slices of a Tagua nut that have been dyed a pretty plum color. 

Don't know if I'll ever actually button my cardi, but like the way the buttons look!


----------



## mom2grif

I'm using 9s


----------



## mom2grif

Yummy buttons, Jill!


----------



## charlenekbenton

Good choice on buttons, Jill2


----------



## Carolinesol

Jill2 said:


> I just found my buttons.
> They are slices of a Tagua nut that have been dyed a pretty plum color.
> 
> Don't know if I'll ever actually button my cardi, but like the way the buttons look!


Lovely buttons. Have you had trouble fitting your sleeves in ? My shoulders seem to hang over to much !!!! Not sure what to do about it. Can't undo it all.


----------



## Carolinesol

RobbiD said:


> Carolinesol, I am soooo jealous. Your sweater is absolutely gorgeous! I am nowhere near that far along. I have never blocked anything. Is it necessary with acrylics? I used to see (many years ago) man-made fibers labeled as "self-blocking". I guess I thought that was still true. If blocking IS necessary, any advice on blocking acrylic?


Hi. Thanks for nice comments. I had never blocked anything before, not sure it has made much difference to my work but had to give it a go. My yarn is only 20% wool rest Acrylic.
I am having a bit of trouble at the moment setting the sleeves in? Not sure what the answer is.... Think I need to go to bed and try again tomorrow.


----------



## Flybreit

peachy51 said:


> Question on the front. For those of you who have the fronts done, are they both the same width? I'm asking because I don't think I would ever button mine, so I'm thinking of making it without the buttons and buttonholes ... like a little buttonless jacket?
> 
> Would that work?


Peachy, if you don't want to button it (which I totally understand) what about a 'frog' closure or something like that? Not buttoned, but the cables are held together.


----------



## Jill2

Carolinesol said:


> Lovely buttons. Have you had trouble fitting your sleeves in ? My shoulders seem to hang over to much !!!! Not sure what to do about it. Can't undo it all.


I haven't gotten that far......will have to redo my sleeves, the fit is much too snug on my arm.


----------



## Flybreit

Back to Row 41 - much happier with the way it looks.


----------



## Needleme

questmiller said:


> I'm so sorry that you had to frog. Something that I learned a few months ago was how to fix an error when doing cables. You isolate the offending cable (use another needle to hold the stitches to the right of the cable and push the stitches to the left of the cable back a ways on the needle.) Then take a deep breath and drop the cable stitches off the needle. Make sure that the good stitches on the left are far from falling off your needles now. Let it run down to the mistake. Assuming that you are working an eight stitch cable, you simply do what the pattern called for at that section -- slip the first 4 stitches to a cable needle, (hold it in the front or back of your work depending on what your pattern says and then knit the other 4 stitches using the lowest ladder at the back. Then knit the stitches from the cable needle. There is no need to do a return purl row. Simply work the stitches in the front right to left as knits. It does get a bit tight knitting the ladder, but the stitches will fit back together again nicely. Just keep working up the ladders to the top. Voila.
> Here's a video -- this woman is using double pointed needles, but you can get the idea: http://www.ehow.com/video_4976526_advanced-knitting-fixing-cables-ripping.html


I am going to copy this little hint and put it in a special place-- no doubt I will have occasion to use your great advice! Thanks for helping me!!


----------



## peachy51

Flybreit said:


> Peachy, if you don't want to button it (which I totally understand) what about a 'frog' closure or something like that? Not buttoned, but the cables are held together.


My thoiught is that I will never want it closed ... I never button cardigans or jackets.


----------



## Needleme

RobbiD said:


> I am using Bernat Satin (acrylic, machine washable and dryable--Honey helps with the laundry ;-) ) in Stone-a very dark gray, but the cables are showing up beautifully.


Because of you, I switched my yarn when I started again. I love Bernat Satin! I had to go up a needle size to make gauge, but I am on Row 4 of Chart A.
The stitches are a little looser than the Cascade, but softer to the touch!
We'll see how this try goes.


----------



## questmiller

Needleme said:


> I am going to copy this little hint and put it in a special place-- no doubt I will have occasion to use your great advice! Thanks for helping me!!


Glad to help... :lol:


----------



## Carolinesol

Can anyone offer help on setting the sleeves in ? I am still having a bit of trouble. Think I might have to undo quite a bit :-(


----------



## Kissnntell

did u mark them?
meaning, put a pin or marker in the center of each (sleeve & body), then the center of those (now u have it divided in fourths) then keep on going if needed
then u can ease each section in a lot easier & not end up w/something too big or too small for that section
what stitch are you using?


----------



## RobbiD

Jill2 said:


> I just found my buttons.
> They are slices of a Tagua nut that have been dyed a pretty plum color.
> 
> Don't know if I'll ever actually button my cardi, but like the way the buttons look!


OOOO! Unusual buttons for a unique sweater! How appropriate. I love them, and the color. Nice choice, Jill.


----------



## RobbiD

Needleme said:


> Because of you, I switched my yarn when I started again. I love Bernat Satin! I had to go up a needle size to make gauge, but I am on Row 4 of Chart A.
> The stitches are a little looser than the Cascade, but softer to the touch!
> We'll see how this try goes.


Needleme, I knit loosely, so I am using size 6 needles. I agree the Satin yarn feels so soft while knitting. I love the sheen that it has, one of the reasons I chose it. I am just reaching the left shapings, and I am very happy with the look and feel of the knitting, so far. The only trouble I had with the yarn is that I received 2 separate dye lots when I ordered my yarn. I have decided that the difference in shade will be OK (as in, not real noticeable) if I use one dye lot for the body, and the other for the sleeves and top pieces. I think the change in direction and stitch will camouflage the difference. I hope, I hope, I hope.


----------



## mom2grif

Where are you ordering yarn from that sends different dye lots. That's insane! I wouldn't order from them again!


----------



## Carole-Jayne

mom2grif said:


> Where are you ordering yarn from that sends different dye lots. That's insane! I wouldn't order from them again!


I totally agree. Suppliers MUST know that, under usual circumstances, we need all the same dye lot. IF they can't provide it, then they should contact us and ask us how we would like to proceed. We put countless hours into our work and we shouldn't have to compromise on the yarn we choose to use.
cj


----------



## Flybreit

mom2grif said:


> Where are you ordering yarn from that sends different dye lots. That's insane! I wouldn't order from them again!


I was just reading an email from a friend of mine who lives in quite a rural area - she has to drive 100 miles to go to a quilt shop to 'see, touch, and feel' fabric. At $3.++ per gallon for gas, it is expensive.

She also orders yarn and has run into several places that do not guarantee the same dye lot.

I ordered my yarn from an individual and she specified it was all the same dye lot; not so much on the commercial sites...

I'm just glad RobbiD has a good solution - and I have my fingers crossed for a good outcome! 

Sometimes we have to make the best of what is available.


----------



## Flybreit

Have any of you been slipping the first stitch of each row? 

I usually do, and like the edge it creates. Haven't done it on this since Erica didn't mention it. And don't know enough to know if it will create problems when it's time to join the pieces....for me, I find it creates a nice edge for picking up stitches....


----------



## Carole-Jayne

Flybreit said:


> I was just reading an email from a friend of mine who lives in quite a rural area - she has to drive 100 miles to go to a quilt shop to 'see, touch, and feel' fabric. At $3.++ per gallon for gas, it is expensive.
> 
> She also orders yarn and has run into several places that do not guarantee the same dye lot.
> 
> I ordered my yarn from an individual and she specified it was all the same dye lot; not so much on the commercial sites...
> 
> I'm just glad RobbiD has a good solution - and I have my fingers crossed for a good outcome!
> 
> Sometimes we have to make the best of what is available.


I, too, live far far away from the ONLY yarn store in this entire province!!!! So I buy ALL my yarn online, and almost all of my fabric online, mostly from the States - I'm Canadian. I specify SAME DYE LOT ONLY and only once did I receive double dye lots. I emailed them, gave them the particulars and basically insisted that when I return the yarn, they pay for the return postage in addition to the yarn refund. 
I suggest, that WE, post the name of the companies that do this right here in KP AND we send a copy of the post to the company. It is not right - they should always give US the option of buying double lots or choosing an alternative.
CJ


----------



## mom2grif

Flybreit said:


> Have any of you been slipping the first stitch of each row?
> 
> I usually do, and like the edge it creates. Haven't done it on this since Erica didn't mention it. And don't know enough to know if it will create problems when it's time to join the pieces....for me, I find it creates a nice edge for picking up stitches....


I almost always do. And I did for this too.


----------



## Oh Donna

Flybreit said:


> Have any of you been slipping the first stitch of each row?
> 
> I usually do, and like the edge it creates. Haven't done it on this since Erica didn't mention it. And don't know enough to know if it will create problems when it's time to join the pieces....for me, I find it creates a nice edge for picking up stitches....


I haven't been. Had a vague sense that maybe I should be, but am so caught up in the directions as written, and Erica didn't mention it, so I haven't. And I am thinking as you are, could it be a problem in joining the pieces--another area I will probably need help in.
Thank you for raising this question-I look forward to hearing other replies.


----------



## questmiller

Oh Donna said:


> I haven't been. Had a vague sense that maybe I should be, but am so caught up in the directions as written, and Erica didn't mention it, so I haven't. And I am thinking as you are, could it be a problem in joining the pieces--another area I will probably need help in.
> Thank you for raising this question-I look forward to hearing other replies.


I didn't and had no problem with my seaming. In fact, I'm very pleased. Get to work on the I-cord today! Yippee!


----------



## Jill2

I did not slip a stitch and had no problem sewing the seams. I also like to slip the first/last stitch as it does make for an easy pick of stitches, but since there are no stitches being picked up on this sweater it didn't pose a problem.


----------



## Jill2

questmiller said:


> I didn't and had no problem with my seaming. In fact, I'm very pleased. Get to work on the I-cord today! Yippee!


Have you started your I-cord? I found the starting point to be a problem....
directions read to start at the lower right edge, then says to continue working along the bottom edge. This seems backwards to me.....I'm thinking it should read to start at the lower left edge. 
What do you think?
Ok to tell me I'm all wet! 
:lol:


----------



## mom2grif

Personally I'd like to start in the back or someplace discrete because my joins aren't really pretty


----------



## Carolinesol

Kissnntell said:


> did u mark them?
> meaning, put a pin or marker in the center of each (sleeve & body), then the center of those (now u have it divided in fourths) then keep on going if needed
> then u can ease each section in a lot easier & not end up w/something too big or too small for that section
> what stitch are you using?


Hi.sorry I should have been clearer. My problem is the shoulders hang to far down so sleeves don't look right. Think I need to redo the upper fronts as think mine are to wide which is not helping.
Thanks for reply.


----------



## questmiller

Jill2 said:


> Have you started your I-cord? I found the starting point to be a problem....
> directions read to start at the lower right edge, then says to continue working along the bottom edge. This seems backwards to me.....I'm thinking it should read to start at the lower left edge.
> What do you think?
> Ok to tell me I'm all wet!
> :lol:


I got confused with Erica's instructions for the I-cord, so of course did a web search. This is quite understandable : http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=H0PILVw6eO8&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DH0PILVw6eO8

Also, I started at the center back just to have it less obvious...


----------



## questmiller

questmiller said:


> I got confused with Erica's instructions for the I-cord, so of course did a web search. This is quite understandable : http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=H0PILVw6eO8&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DH0PILVw6eO8
> 
> Also, I started at the center back just to have it less obvious...


And I just figured out that if you work the I-cord with the right side facing you that you'll have a wider cord border. I prefer that, but it would be up to you. It doesn't take too much time to experiment with it.


----------



## GeorgiaSong

As of today, I believe the old version is still online. I'm a novice knitter so this is a big challenge. 

On Page 6 of Upper Right Front, would the last sentence then be: Then BO all sts on next RS row ??

Thank you.


----------



## Carole-Jayne

GeorgiaSong said:


> As of today, I believe the old version is still online. I'm a novice knitter so this is a big challenge.
> 
> On Page 6 of Upper Right Front, would the last sentence then be: Then BO all sts on next RS row ??
> 
> Thank you.


ERICA:
Could you let us know when the newest version is up? thanks
cj


----------



## janwalla

Patchworkcat said:


> Should I *ever* get that far, I won't be putting buttons/buttonholes on mine either. Seems a waste of time and effort, since I never close up my sweaters or jackets. Buttoning a sweater just emphasizes that which I'd rather not.
> 
> Jill


LOL Jill I think you are very much like me! I never fasten cardi's either, cos they gape and emphasize my HUGE boobies!!! ha ha !!Come to think of it i cant find my waist anymore, as they have even taken that away, cos they have both fallen way down south!!
(keeps my knees warm tho!! ) lol :lol: :lol:


----------



## sewknitbeadgrandma

janwalla said:


> LOL Jill I think you are very much like me! I never fasten cardi's either, cos they gape and emphasize my HUGE boobies!!! ha ha !!Come to think of it i cant find my waist anymore, as they have even taken that away, cos they have both fallen way down south!!
> (keeps my knees warm tho!! ) lol :lol: :lol:


Always wondered why my knees were so warm :thumbup:


----------



## Patchworkcat

You guys are *too* funny! <lol> I don't think mine are quite that gravity challenged yet, but almost. Waistline? What's that? Haven't had one of those in years.

Jill


----------



## Kissnntell

now i know why my knees are always freezing!


----------



## Jill2

GeorgiaSong said:


> As of today, I believe the old version is still online. I'm a novice knitter so this is a big challenge.
> 
> On Page 6 of Upper Right Front, would the last sentence then be: Then BO all sts on next RS row ??
> 
> Thank you.


Yes, you are correct....just ignore the part about working rows even.


----------



## Flybreit

GeorgiaSong said:


> As of today, I believe the old version is still online. I'm a novice knitter so this is a big challenge.
> 
> On Page 6 of Upper Right Front, would the last sentence then be: Then BO all sts on next RS row ??
> 
> Thank you.


That is what I understood from Erica's post - I lined through: work 3 (4,5,6,6,7,8) rows even. The rest of the sentence is to BO all sts on next RS row.


----------



## CarolZ

Be careful which link you click on when you get notification emails for this topic. I just accidently clicked on one and it unwatched me automatically! That ain't gonna happen, LOL!!!!!


----------



## Kissnntell

oh sorry for my misunderstanding
i've been wondering re: this on mine as i have lost so much weight. i'm thinking i will have to put in a dreaded shoulder pad to take up that slack



Carolinesol said:


> Hi.sorry I should have been clearer. My problem is the shoulders hang to far down so sleeves don't look right. Think I need to redo the upper fronts as think mine are to wide which is not helping.
> Thanks for reply.


----------



## questmiller

Another idea about the I-cord...I found that I needed to add some extra stitches when I worked around the bottom front edges to allow for some give around the corners. It was obvious on mine, so this may not even have needed a posting.


----------



## RobbiD

Flybreit said:


> I was just reading an email from a friend of mine who lives in quite a rural area - she has to drive 100 miles to go to a quilt shop to 'see, touch, and feel' fabric. At $3.++ per gallon for gas, it is expensive.
> 
> She also orders yarn and has run into several places that do not guarantee the same dye lot.
> 
> I ordered my yarn from an individual and she specified it was all the same dye lot; not so much on the commercial sites...
> 
> I'm just glad RobbiD has a good solution - and I have my fingers crossed for a good outcome!
> 
> Sometimes we have to make the best of what is available.


Hi everyone. I ordered my yarn from JoAnn's. They state right in the order form that they will attempt to supply all the same dye lot, but do not guarantee that all one lot will be sent. They cover their a#% that way, I guess. I would have posted pictures, but the difference didn't show much in the pics. Lousy lighting. I had knitted a gauge swatch from one dye lot in stockinet stitch, and had started the body of the sweater in the other. When I put the stockinette swatch at a right angle to the body, the difference was not as pronounced as when both skeins are set next to each other. I think any difference in shade will be attributed to the difference in stitches and direction of the rows. 
I wouldn't ordinarily order yarn, but I am incapacitated just now, and didn't want to wait until I can walk and drive again to start this sweater  While my Honey is very supportive and encouraging (not to mention doing everything for me for the last 3 weeks), I just couldn't imagine him going on a yarn shopping trip for me :!: So I am just forging ahead and hoping for the best. Thanks for all the encouragement, it is greatly appreciated.


----------



## RobbiD

Flybreit said:


> Have any of you been slipping the first stitch of each row?
> 
> I usually do, and like the edge it creates. Haven't done it on this since Erica didn't mention it. And don't know enough to know if it will create problems when it's time to join the pieces....for me, I find it creates a nice edge for picking up stitches....


I have been slipping mine. It's the only way I can keep my edge stitches tight. I have made sweaters where I didn't slip the first sts, and had no problem with seaming them. I was more concerned with having a firm edge to attach the I-cord to, so I did slip this time. Hopefully you will have no problems.


----------



## peachy51

I order yarn a lot and Joann's is not the only site that has the disclaimer that they will try to match dye lots but not guarantee it. If they have that disclaimer, I send them a note saying if they cannot fill my order with the same dye lot, to cancel the order. So far, I have not had any sent of different dye lots.

I figure if they can cover their a$$ with their disclaimer, I can cover mine by telling them to cancel if they can't fill with one dye lot! :mrgreen:


----------



## Jessica-Jean

peachy51 said:


> I figure if they can cover their a$$ with their disclaimer, I can cover mine by telling them to cancel if they can't fill with one dye lot! :mrgreen:


 :thumbup:


----------



## Jill2

Carolinesol said:


> Hi.sorry I should have been clearer. My problem is the shoulders hang to far down so sleeves don't look right. Think I need to redo the upper fronts as think mine are to wide which is not helping.
> Thanks for reply.


Carolinesol, what have you decided to do about your shoulders?


----------



## RobbiD

questmiller said:


> I got confused with Erica's instructions for the I-cord, so of course did a web search. This is quite understandable : http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=H0PILVw6eO8&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DH0PILVw6eO8
> 
> Also, I started at the center back just to have it less obvious...


Oh my! I can see I'm gonna have all kinds of trouble when I get this far. I have only started chart D, so I have a while for all you knitting geniuses to get the i-cord figured out for me :lol:

questmiller, I took a quick look at the video you posted. I am *sure* to get myself all tangled up. I am hoping once I actually start the i-cord it will be less confusing.


----------



## pinsandneedles

:thumbup: :thumbup: to peachy 51


----------



## Kissnntell

robbie ur thinking like me now ... kinda hanging back so all the uh-ooh's r out'a the way then can grab & go & get thru it w/o a hitch lol


----------



## sewknitbeadgrandma

Kissnntell said:


> now i know why my knees are always freezing!


 :thumbup:


----------



## Carolinesol

Jill2 said:


> Carolinesol, what have you decided to do about your shoulders?


Hi. I did not have much time yesterday but I took out sleeves and took off front bits and redone one ( so far) in a smaller size I have pinned this one on and I think it might help ! I am out most of today but will tackle it tonight! It will not beat me !!!!!!
Hope you are doing ok with yours ?


----------



## Jill2

Carolinesol said:


> Hi. I did not have much time yesterday but I took out sleeves and took off front bits and redone one ( so far) in a smaller size I have pinned this one on and I think it might help ! I am out most of today but will tackle it tonight! It will not beat me !!!!!!
> Hope you are doing ok with yours ?


Good plan....sounds like it will be an improvement. I frogged my sleeves (too tight) and have been working on the icord...it is looking great as it adds such a nice finished look to the edge. Have gone up the right front, around the neck and am working my way down the left side, doing a bit of easing as I go.
Buttons and buttonholes in place.
Anxious to see more photos from the other ladies.


----------



## beaz

Warning: here are some stupid questions. On the CO for the body, is this just the back piece? If so, where are the 2 front sections? On the body, it is ribbing but where is that in the sweater?


----------



## Jill2

beaz said:


> Warning: here are some stupid questions. On the CO for the body, is this just the back piece? If so, where are the 2 front sections? On the body, it is ribbing but where is that in the sweater?


The initial CO is the right front.....you'll work the right front followed by the back then the left front....all in one piece.

The ribbing you see is just a few set up rows preparing you for the cables on the right front.


----------



## mom2grif

Beaz, remember, there are no stupid questions. Just mean people who make fun of people who ask stupid questions, which don't exist! ;-)


----------



## janwalla

Patchworkcat said:


> You guys are *too* funny! <lol> I don't think mine are quite that gravity challenged yet, but almost. Waistline? What's that? Haven't had one of those in years.
> 
> Jill


Lucky you!! Ive been gravity challenged for many years. Still have a waistline-ish.(large one at that) I think its cos I got big hips and boobs! LOL


----------



## Oh Donna

beaz said:


> Warning: here are some stupid questions. On the CO for the body, is this just the back piece? If so, where are the 2 front sections? On the body, it is ribbing but where is that in the sweater?


Not a stupid question. Your brain is seeing the cast ons as the bottom back of the sweater, right? Ok, shift gears--imagine those cast-ons on your needle, and now turn the needle perpendicular--the cast ons are the button/button hole edge of the front of the cardigan, and you are going to be knitting sideways from one button edge of the cardigan across the back and around to the front other edge of the cardigan. That ribbing you are starting out with will become the cables and flat strips radiating and growing bigger as they head to the side under your arm (and then they keep going across the back. And around to the front.)
When your brain makes the switch you will slap your head and yell out a big AH_HAA!!!! and you won't be able to go back and see it the first way.
It's almost like an optical illusion--a really cool one!


----------



## questmiller

I'm done! I'm loving it!


----------



## beaz

questmiller said:


> I'm done! I'm loving it!


Well done! It looks great on you and you did a fantastic job, I can tell you look very proud of your accomplishment.


----------



## peachy51

questmiller said:


> I'm done! I'm loving it!


Wooo Hooo! Lookin' good! :thumbup:


----------



## Oh Donna

questmiller said:


> I'm done! I'm loving it!


Wowie zowie---Congratulations!!!!!
It's gorgeous!!! What an inspiration for us who are still slogging along.

I am on row 42 of Chart A, and this morning I watched a bunch of you-tubes on short row shaping (wrap&turn, German and Japanese)
in anticipation of holding my nose and diving into Chart B and beyond.

Thank you for sharing your success, questmiller :wink: :thumbup:


----------



## Carolinesol

questmiller said:


> I'm done! I'm loving it!


Well done. What a good fit. And what a lot of snow !!!!!!


----------



## aascott52

Great job!!! love the color.


----------



## mom2grif

Wowsy questmiller, you get the prize! First one done! It looks fabulous!


----------



## Jill2

Great Job....looks great on you! Congratulations!


----------



## catlover1960

questmiller said:


> I'm done! I'm loving it!


Beautifully done. Looking to start mine soon.


----------



## nintendomo

It looks absolutely wonderful!!! Good for you for finishing! If mine turns out as good as your did, I may make a bunch in different colors!!!!


----------



## AverilC

Wow, looks fabulous and a great fit. Had done all of chart A and B and decided to frog it all as I felt I wanted extra on the stockinette section at front. But the chart is so easy I am flying away with it now. Thanks again Erica, its a great pattern.


----------



## Carole-Jayne

Carolinesol said:


> Well done. What a good fit. And what a lot of snow !!!!!!


Your cardigan is absolutely super - and so are you ... well done! Oh, yes -- thanks for sending your snow up the coast to Nova Scotia - we are getting it tomorrow night


----------



## peachy51

I'm finishing up the second side shaping and getting ready to start on Chart D. I really love the way this pattern is so well written and easy to follow! :thumbup:

And I'm glad I didn't make the sleeves first, as I think I'm going to try the top down sleeves shown in the link posted earlier in this thread.


----------



## TammyK

questmiller said:


> I'm done! I'm loving it!


YeeHa, indeed! :thumbup:


----------



## mom2grif

Ding, ding, ding, ding! Light bulb on!


----------



## Jill2

mom2grif said:


> Ding, ding, ding, ding! Light bulb on!


Yea!!! The Cheat Sheet strikes again!!


----------



## mom2grif

Yep


----------



## janwalla

questmiller said:


> I'm done! I'm loving it!


Brilliant and well done love the colour! Im a sucker for greens!!


----------



## Jill2

mom2grif said:


> Yep


It's brilliant, yes?


----------



## mom2grif

Jill, I knew I'd see it as soon as I started the short rows, and that's what happened. It's so obvious to my mechanical brain. But getting to the short rows and seeing what's going on is the key. It's amazing.


----------



## peachy51

mom2grif said:


> Jill, I knew I'd see it as soon as I started the short rows, and that's what happened. It's so obvious to my mechanical brain. But getting to the short rows and seeing what's going on is the key. It's amazing.


Like I've said before, it's pure genius! And makes doing the short rows so enjoyable because it takes all the math and guesswork out of the cable crossings. I love it! :thumbup:


----------



## Needleme

mom2grif said:


> Beaz, remember, there are no stupid questions. Just mean people who make fun of people who ask stupid questions, which don't exist! ;-)


 :thumbup: :thumbup:


----------



## Needleme

questmiller said:


> I'm done! I'm loving it!


Oh, so beautiful! It looks fantastic on you-- and you look "mah-velous" in it!!Thanks for sharing!!


----------



## Needleme

Oh Donna said:


> Wowie zowie---Congratulations!!!!!
> It's gorgeous!!! What an inspiration for us who are still slogging along.
> 
> I am on row 42 of Chart A, and this morning I watched a bunch of you-tubes on short row shaping (wrap&turn, German and Japanese)
> in anticipation of holding my nose and diving into Chart B and beyond.
> 
> Thank you for sharing your success, questmiller :wink: :thumbup:


Hee hee-- you are further than I after frogging 42 rows of Chart A. Am on Row 4 of Chart A. Yes, Row 04, not 40!!! Hurray!


----------



## Patchworkcat

questmiller said:


> I'm done! I'm loving it!


It looks awesome on you! Nice job!

Oooh, I wonder if that top cable row is going to go across me where I definitely wouldn't want it to go. <hmmmm>

Jill


----------



## pinsandneedles

Questmiller. that is just absolutely gorgeous,can't wait to finish mine,you've inspired me..


----------



## Oh Donna

Needleme said:


> Hee hee-- you are further than I after frogging 42 rows of Chart A. Am on Row 4 of Chart A. Yes, Row 04, not 40!!! Hurray!


You know what? I bet you are further than at least somebody else, who may be swatching/waiting for yarn to arrive/still needing to decide on yarn/needing to finish something else before they can start a new project. Yes, we know it's not a race, but it's such a cool sweater that we just want to see it shaping up!

I am sheepishly laughing, thinking about some of us posting our finished sweaters 30 years from now, ha ha I'll be 90!!!


----------



## Oh Donna

Oh Donna said:


> You know what? I bet you are further than at least somebody else, who may be swatching/waiting for yarn to arrive/still needing to decide on yarn/needing to finish something else before they can start a new project. Yes, we know it's not a race, but it's such a cool sweater that we just want to see it shaping up!
> 
> I am sheepishly laughing, thinking about some of us posting our finished sweaters 30 years from now, ha ha I'll be 90!!!


Oh and I'm terrified that I'm going to get stuck and set mine aside and it will fade into a U.F.O.


----------



## questmiller

catlover1960 said:


> Beautifully done. Looking to start mine soon.


Thanks and have fun with your sweater!


----------



## questmiller

Oh Donna said:


> Oh and I'm terrified that I'm going to get stuck and set mine aside and it will fade into a U.F.O.


One stitch at a time...you can do it!


----------



## questmiller

janwalla said:


> Brilliant and well done love the colour! Im a sucker for greens!!


Thanks. Some day I'd love to visit England!


----------



## questmiller

Needleme said:


> Oh, so beautiful! It looks fantastic on you-- and you look "mah-velous" in it!!Thanks for sharing!!


Thanks so much. It was a great pattern, eh?


----------



## questmiller

Patchworkcat said:


> It looks awesome on you! Nice job!
> 
> Oooh, I wonder if that top cable row is going to go across me where I definitely wouldn't want it to go. <hmmmm>
> 
> Jill


Thanks. For some reason, this pattern seems to help my body shape...


----------



## questmiller

pinsandneedles said:


> Questmiller. that is just absolutely gorgeous,can't wait to finish mine,you've inspired me..


Thanks, and you go girl!


----------



## questmiller

beaz said:


> Well done! It looks great on you and you did a fantastic job, I can tell you look very proud of your accomplishment.


Thanks -- now on to other projects!


----------



## Kissnntell

*Thanks. For some reason, this pattern seems to help my body shape...*

that's what i'm hoping for! THEN perhaps someone will walk up behind me & kno i'm a gal & not someone's kid brother!! lol


----------



## questmiller

peachy51 said:


> Wooo Hooo! Lookin' good! :thumbup:


Thanks Peachy!


----------



## RobbiD

mom2grif said:


> Beaz, remember, there are no stupid questions. Just mean people who make fun of people who ask stupid questions, which don't exist! ;-)


Yep, what Susan said. Besides beaz, *I'm* the queen of dumb questions :lol:


----------



## RobbiD

questmiller said:


> I'm done! I'm loving it!


questmiller, that is *BEAUTIFUL*. And it looks so good on you. If mine turns out half as well I will be quite proud of myself.


----------



## RobbiD

peachy51 said:


> I'm finishing up the second side shaping and getting ready to start on Chart D. I really love the way this pattern is so well written and easy to follow! :thumbup:
> 
> And I'm glad I didn't make the sleeves first, as I think I'm going to try the top down sleeves shown in the link posted earlier in this thread.


Peachy, I'm just about 1/2 way thru chart D. We can attempt the top down sleeves together, as I had decided to try them also


----------



## RobbiD

Oh Donna said:


> Oh and I'm terrified that I'm going to get stuck and set mine aside and it will fade into a U.F.O.


Oh Donna, if you get stuck, there will still be some of us (me) still struggling along who will be more than willing to help you out. Just keep at it. Believe me, I have found that it got easier as I went along. Mastering new techniques has really given me a confidence boost.


----------



## RobbiD

questmiller said:


> Thanks. For some reason, this pattern seems to help my body shape...


I sure hope it helps mine too. My body shape needs all the helps it can get :lol:


----------



## maryannn

questmiller said:


> I'm done! I'm loving it!


Awesome!!


----------



## mom2grif

Who said it wasn't a race.... needles clicking frantically!


----------



## charlenekbenton

Qestmiller...it's gorgeous dahling?..just gorgeous! Great job!!


----------



## charlenekbenton

Ooppss "?" was suppose to be "!"


----------



## ElegantDetails

This question is directed to either Erica or those with a much higher skill level than I have. It pertains to CHART B. I am doing size 40 and the first line reads that I am to " work 1 repeat of chart B, working the red boxes across....like A ( I got that part I think) My question is......do I do 1 complete B before I start the shaping or do I do the shapings every time I do B? I hope someone can understand my question??????


----------



## peachy51

ElegantDetails said:


> This question is directed to either Erica or those with a much higher skill level than I have. It pertains to CHART B. I am doing size 40 and the first line reads that I am to " work 1 repeat of chart B, working the red boxes across....like A ( I got that part I think) My question is......do I do 1 complete B before I start the shaping or do I do the shapings every time I do B? I hope someone can understand my question??????


For your size, you will work one repeat of chart B (Rows 1-10)

Then you will work Row 1 of Chart B and continue with the Right Hip Shaping, and be sure to keep up with your decreases. (The reason you work Row 1 of Chart B before starting the Hip Shaping is because all the Hip Shaping starts on a wrong side row.) This is where you really need to be using the Cable Cheat Sheet on page 7. It will help you immensly. All the rows you work on page 3 through all the bust shaping and hip shaping will be from Chart B until you get to the last paragraph where you will go to Chart C.

Hope that helps.


----------



## questmiller

charlenekbenton said:


> Qestmiller...it's gorgeous dahling?..just gorgeous! Great job!!


Thanks so much.


----------



## questmiller

charlenekbenton said:


> Ooppss "?" was suppose to be "!"


 :lol:


----------



## questmiller

RobbiD said:


> questmiller, that is *BEAUTIFUL*. And it looks so good on you. If mine turns out half as well I will be quite proud of myself.


Thanks. I really look forward to seeing everyone else's sweaters!


----------



## questmiller

maryannn said:


> Awesome!!


Thanks!


----------



## questmiller

mom2grif said:


> Who said it wasn't a race.... needles clicking frantically!


It is surely NOT a race. I just have lots of retirement time on my hands!


----------



## Needleme

Oh Donna said:


> Oh and I'm terrified that I'm going to get stuck and set mine aside and it will fade into a U.F.O.


No,no, let's promise we will not let that happen!! No matter how long it takes, we can do it! No UFOs for us!!


----------



## Carolinesol

Jill2 said:


> Good plan....sounds like it will be an improvement. I frogged my sleeves (too tight) and have been working on the icord...it is looking great as it adds such a nice finished look to the edge. Have gone up the right front, around the neck and am working my way down the left side, doing a bit of easing as I go.
> Buttons and buttonholes in place.
> Anxious to see more photos from the other ladies.


How you doing ? Have you finished yet? Did your shoulders look ok? Questions questions........ Sorry.


----------



## Jill2

Carolinesol said:


> How you doing ? Have you finished yet? Did your shoulders look ok? Questions questions........ Sorry.


I have finished the body and all the I-cord. The shoulders appear to be fine.
I watched the video on knitting in the sleeves top down and am going to give it a try. Some math involved so will work on that today.
Here's the link that was previously posted





I really like the I-cord instructions that Erica included in the pattern. I appears to me that starting by picking up stitches creates a bias knit icord which helps with the neckline and curved areas along bottom fronts. It worked beautifully.

Here's a photo....the needle is naturally slanted at a 45 degree angle while working the I-cord. I think it's another stroke of genius! Thank you Erica!

Did you get your new upper fronts sewn in place? Are they going to be OK?


----------



## Carolinesol

Jill2 said:


> I have finished the body and all the I-cord. The shoulders appear to be fine.
> I watched the video on knitting in the sleeves top down and am going to give it a try. Some math involved so will work on that today.
> Here's the link that was previously posted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like the I-cord instructions that Erica included in the pattern. I appears to me that starting by picking up stitches creates a bias knit icord which helps with the neckline and curved areas along bottom fronts. It worked beautifully.
> 
> Here's a photo....the needle is naturally slanted at a 45 degree angle while working the I-cord. I think it's another stroke of genius! Thank you Erica!
> 
> Did you get your new upper fronts sewn in place? Are they going to be OK?


WOW very neat, I like that edging. Do you think the 3 sts is wide enough ? I only ask because not having done it before, what i usually do would have been wider !
I have re knitted the top fronts and back and sown them in place and put in one sleeve so far and pleased to report it looks 10 times better.... Thank goodness.


----------



## mom2grif

This could have been mentioned before, but I don't remember it. I'm on bust shaping C. Is it just me, or do the instructions not quite match the cheat sheet. On the cheat sheet there are 3 short rows shown, the last (top) one being a tiny one of 4 stitches. The instructions just have 2 short rows. 26 stitches, turn, k2, ssk, 12 stitches turn. Last instruction is k2, ssp, work remainder of row in pattern. If I follow the cheat sheet that last instruction should be k2, ssp, p1, turn. Then turn and work across in pattern. 

Thoughts, ladies that have passed this point?


----------



## Carolinesol

mom2grif said:


> This could have been mentioned before, but I don't remember it. I'm on bust shaping C. Is it just me, or do the instructions not quite match the cheat sheet. On the cheat sheet there are 3 short rows shown, the last (top) one being a tiny one of 4 stitches. The instructions just have 2 short rows. 26 stitches, turn, k2, ssk, 12 stitches turn. Last instruction is k2, ssp, work remainder of row in pattern. If I follow the cheat sheet that last instruction should be k2, ssp, p1, turn. Then turn and work across in pattern.
> 
> Thoughts, ladies that have passed this point?


Sorry... Cant help, I could not understand the cheat sheet !


----------



## Jill2

mom2grif said:


> This could have been mentioned before, but I don't remember it. I'm on bust shaping C. Is it just me, or do the instructions not quite match the cheat sheet. On the cheat sheet there are 3 short rows shown, the last (top) one being a tiny one of 4 stitches. The instructions just have 2 short rows. 26 stitches, turn, k2, ssk, 12 stitches turn. Last instruction is k2, ssp, work remainder of row in pattern. If I follow the cheat sheet that last instruction should be k2, ssp, p1, turn. Then turn and work across in pattern.
> 
> Thoughts, ladies that have passed this point?


I noticed the same thing....and it is the same for the left front bust shaping H.
I wrote a PM to Erica on the 4th, but never heard back.
I chose to follow the written instructions.
What have you done?


----------



## mom2grif

I'm going to follow the cheat sheet, because that seems to me the ways it should be. I really don't think it'll make much difference in the scheme of things since it's just 4 stitches. But I'll do it the same on both sides to be consistent.


----------



## Jill2

Carolinesol said:


> WOW very neat, I like that edging. Do you think the 3 sts is wide enough ? I only ask because not having done it before, what i usually do would have been wider !
> I have re knitted the top fronts and back and sown them in place and put in one sleeve so far and pleased to report it looks 10 times better.... Thank goodness.


Great news! A relatively easy fix, eh? Good job!

The I-cord is plenty wide...it is actually a 4 stitch....I worked it from the RS, although I think the pattern is working it from the WS. I believe it was questmiller who commented that more shows if worked from the RS. I had never worked an I cord from the WS, so I went with what was comfortable.


----------



## Jill2

mom2grif said:


> I'm going to follow the cheat sheet, because that seems to me the ways it should be. I really don't think it'll make much difference in the scheme of things since it's just 4 stitches. But I'll do it the same on both sides to be consistent.


Good idea!


----------



## mom2grif

I wish that one day we could have an "Erica's Sunburst Cable Cardigan" reunion. We'd all wear our sweaters...


----------



## Jill2

mom2grif said:


> I wish that one day we could have an "Erica's Sunburst Cable Cardigan" reunion. We'd all wear our sweaters...


That would be great fun!


----------



## RobbiD

mom2grif said:


> This could have been mentioned before, but I don't remember it. I'm on bust shaping C. Is it just me, or do the instructions not quite match the cheat sheet. On the cheat sheet there are 3 short rows shown, the last (top) one being a tiny one of 4 stitches. The instructions just have 2 short rows. 26 stitches, turn, k2, ssk, 12 stitches turn. Last instruction is k2, ssp, work remainder of row in pattern. If I follow the cheat sheet that last instruction should be k2, ssp, p1, turn. Then turn and work across in pattern.
> 
> Thoughts, ladies that have passed this point?


Hi Susan. My cheat sheet for bust shaping C only shows the two short rows of 26 and 12 sts.. and for H only showa two short rows of 14 and 28 sts. I know that I had re-downloaded the pattern when Erica said that there were corrections to the cheat sheet. If you want to pm me your email address, I'll be happy to email a new cheat sheet to you.


----------



## Carolinesol

Jill2 said:


> Great news! A relatively easy fix, eh? Good job!
> 
> The I-cord is plenty wide...it is actually a 4 stitch....I worked it from the RS, although I think the pattern is working it from the WS. I believe it was questmiller who commented that more shows if worked from the RS. I had never worked an I cord from the WS, so I went with what was comfortable.


I will let you know when I finish !!!!!


----------



## Carolinesol

mom2grif said:


> I wish that one day we could have an "Erica's Sunburst Cable Cardigan" reunion. We'd all wear our sweaters...


Yes that would be fun..... But might be a bit hard to organise !


----------



## mom2grif

RobbiD said:


> Hi Susan. My cheat sheet for bust shaping C only shows the two short rows of 26 and 12 sts.. and for H only showa two short rows of 14 and 28 sts. I know that I had re-downloaded the pattern when Erica said that there were corrections to the cheat sheet. If you want to pm me your email address, I'll be happy to email a new cheat sheet to you.


I've moved forward already so I'm going to just continue like I did it. I just downloaded the new one and see the change. Looking at it I really don't think it'll cause any trouble except give me an extra couple of rows in the sleeve and that's not a bad thing as my arms are bigger than I'd like.


----------



## RobbiD

mom2grif said:


> I've moved forward already so I'm going to just continue like I did it. I just downloaded the new one and see the change. Looking at it I really don't think it'll cause any trouble except give me an extra couple of rows in the sleeve and that's not a bad thing as my arms are bigger than I'd like.


Ooops  already emailed to you. Sorry.


----------



## Jill2

mom2grif said:


> I've moved forward already so I'm going to just continue like I did it. I just downloaded the new one and see the change. Looking at it I really don't think it'll cause any trouble except give me an extra couple of rows in the sleeve and that's not a bad thing as my arms are bigger than I'd like.


Hmm....good to know....I did not realize that correction had been made on the cheat sheet...Thanks!


----------



## mom2grif

RobbiD said:


> Ooops  already emailed to you. Sorry.


No problem! Thank you!


----------



## mom2grif

Jill2 said:


> Hmm....good to know....I did not realize that correction had been made on the cheat sheet...Thanks!


Me either until RobbiD brought it to my attention!


----------



## peachy51

mom2grif said:


> This could have been mentioned before, but I don't remember it. I'm on bust shaping C. Is it just me, or do the instructions not quite match the cheat sheet. On the cheat sheet there are 3 short rows shown, the last (top) one being a tiny one of 4 stitches. The instructions just have 2 short rows. 26 stitches, turn, k2, ssk, 12 stitches turn. Last instruction is k2, ssp, work remainder of row in pattern. If I follow the cheat sheet that last instruction should be k2, ssp, p1, turn. Then turn and work across in pattern.
> 
> Thoughts, ladies that have passed this point?


I found all the bust and hip shaping to match the Cheat Sheet perfectly. As I completed each step, I highlighted it on the cheat sheet and the written instructions. No problems.


----------



## lulu11

Questioner awesome job it is wonderful I just finishing chart B


----------



## mom2grif

There are changes to the cheat sheet so make sure and download a new copy of the pattern if you got it early on.


----------



## ElegantDetails

Thanks so much for the very clear explanation. Sometimes my brain needs to see it before I can "get it". I was pretty sure that's the way I read it...but at this point in the process, I didn't want to take the chance I was wrong!!! You are WAY ahead of me...... but I look forward to being there in the not toooooo distant future!?!



peachy51 said:


> For your size, you will work one repeat of chart B (Rows 1-10)
> 
> Then you will work Row 1 of Chart B and continue with the Right Hip Shaping, and be sure to keep up with your decreases. (The reason you work Row 1 of Chart B before starting the Hip Shaping is because all the Hip Shaping starts on a wrong side row.) This is where you really need to be using the Cable Cheat Sheet on page 7. It will help you immensly. All the rows you work on page 3 through all the bust shaping and hip shaping will be from Chart B until you get to the last paragraph where you will go to Chart C.
> 
> Hope that helps.


 :lol: :thumbup:


----------



## peachy51

ElegantDetails said:


> Thanks so much for the very clear explanation. Sometimes my brain needs to see it before I can "get it". I was pretty sure that's the way I read it...but at this point in the process, I didn't want to take the chance I was wrong!!! You are WAY ahead of me...... but I look forward to being there in the not toooooo distant future!?!
> 
> :lol: :thumbup:


I know ... sometimes I have to think it through several times before I can visualize it. I love it when it clicks and I have an ah-ha moment :mrgreen:


----------



## janwalla

questmiller said:


> Thanks. For some reason, this pattern seems to help my body shape...


Doubt it would do owt for mine!! LOL :lol: :lol:


----------



## mom2grif

I'm done with my right side waist shaping! Erica is a genius! I am amazed how it all came back together to be in line with the chart and is ready to just continue across the back.


----------



## Jill2

mom2grif said:


> I'm done with my right side waist shaping! Erica is a genius! I am amazed how it all came back together to be in line with the chart and is ready to just continue across the back.


Susan, that is so beautiful! I love the color and your knitting is perfect!

Looking so good!


----------



## Carole-Jayne

That looks super - I love the colour, you'll get a lot of wear out of it. Isn't it funny - this pattern is rather like jumping off a cliff looking for your parachute, a real test of faith in Erica!
cj


----------



## peachy51

mom2grif said:


> I'm done with my right side waist shaping! Erica is a genius! I am amazed how it all came back together to be in line with the chart and is ready to just continue across the back.


And your looks just perfect! :thumbup:


----------



## maryannn

mom2grif said:


> I'm done with my right side waist shaping! Erica is a genius! I am amazed how it all came back together to be in line with the chart and is ready to just continue across the back.


I agree that Erica is a genius! There is no way I could do that because I can barely knit it. I think I have a good excuse because I will be 80 next month.
Anyhow, I have made it this far. Whew!!!
Mary Ann


----------



## peachy51

maryannn said:


> I agree that Erica is a genius! There is no way I could do that because I can barely knit it. I think I have a good excuse because I will be 80 next month.
> Anyhow, I have made it this far. Whew!!!
> Mary Ann


Mary Ann --- I LOVE your tropical blue color! :thumbup:


----------



## Jill2

maryannn said:


> I agree that Erica is a genius! There is no way I could do that because I can barely knit it. I think I have a good excuse because I will be 80 next month.
> Anyhow, I have made it this far. Whew!!!
> Mary Ann


Gorgeous knitting! Just love the color too!


----------



## Carole-Jayne

Jill2 said:


> Gorgeous knitting! Just love the color too!


Regardless of age - that is AWESOME -- such a lovely bright colours. What a joy to wear on a dismal overcast day!
CJ


----------



## mom2grif

maryannn said:


> I agree that Erica is a genius! There is no way I could do that because I can barely knit it. I think I have a good excuse because I will be 80 next month.
> Anyhow, I have made it this far. Whew!!!
> Mary Ann


Mary Ann, who do you think you're kidding. It looks marvelous! And I agree it's a gorgeous color!!!


----------



## Jill2

I just finished the cap on the top down knitted sleeve.

Thanks to Beaz for posting the link.....http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hPKzkuD4oLU

It was a bit fiddly at first....mostly because I don't love magic loop. Don't get me wrong, I'm happy for those of you that love the magic loop, but I'm just not fond of it myself. Just switched to a 16" circ and I feel at home again. The fit of the sleeve into the armscye in perfect.... Better than any set in sleeve I've ever done. 
For those of you who have yet to knit your sleeves, I strongly recommend this method.


----------



## mom2grif

Thanks, Jill I want to do my sleeves that way too!


----------



## Jill2

Susan, what yarn are you using? The stitch definition is really great!


----------



## beaz

My yarn is purple but I think my face must be purple now from all the swatching. The closest I can come to gauge is with a size 9 needle with 16 st x 21. I have swatched both the 8's and the 9's several times and this is what I came up with. Anyone know what I should do? ... please


----------



## peachy51

Jill2 said:


> I just finished the cap on the top down knitted sleeve.
> 
> Thanks to Beaz for posting the link.....http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hPKzkuD4oLU
> 
> It was a bit fiddly at first....mostly because I don't love magic loop. Don't get me wrong, I'm happy for those of you that love the magic loop, but I'm just not fond of it myself. Just switched to a 16" circ and I feel at home again. The fit of the sleeve into the armscye in perfect.... Better than any set in sleeve I've ever done.
> For those of you who have yet to knit your sleeves, I strongly recommend this method.


Jill -- So glad to hear from someone who has done one on this sweater, as this is the way I planned to do my sleeves too! Can't wait to see your pics.


----------



## mom2grif

beaz said:


> My yarn is purple but I think my face must be purple now from all the swatching. The closest I can come to gauge is with a size 9 needle with 16 st x 21. I have swatched both the 8's and the 9's several times and this is what I came up with. Anyone know what I should do? ... please


Start knitting your sweater! Close enough, row count is more important than stitch count with this sweater!


----------



## Jill2

beaz said:


> My yarn is purple but I think my face must be purple now from all the swatching. The closest I can come to gauge is with a size 9 needle with 16 st x 21. I have swatched both the 8's and the 9's several times and this is what I came up with. Anyone know what I should do? ... please


When I swatched with a size 8 my gauge came out just like yours, 16 and 21
So, I made 1 size smaller...a 36 instead of a 38. 
Keeping in mind that I'm using 100% wool and am able to block, the fit is perfect.

Just my $.02 worth!


----------



## maryannn

peachy51 said:


> Mary Ann --- I LOVE your tropical blue color! :thumbup:


Thank you, Peachy
MA


----------



## maryannn

Jill2 said:


> Gorgeous knitting! Just love the color too!


Jill, thank you so much.
MA


----------



## maryannn

CaROLE-JAYNE said:


> Regardless of age - that is AWESOME -- such a lovely bright colours. What a joy to wear on a dismal overcast day!
> CJ


It is very dismal here too. Thanks, CJ
MA


----------



## beaz

Jill and Susan: thanks for the encouragement-I can't wait to start it this weekend


----------



## maryannn

mom2grif said:


> Mary Ann, who do you think you're kidding. It looks marvelous! And I agree it's a gorgeous color!!!


I absolutely love your white sweater. Next I am going to tackle the "Fireside Sweater".
I also would like to knit another of Erica's sweater in red. 
In fact I love all colors.
MA


----------



## Flybreit

Knit, knit, knit - tink, tink, tink. Sure hope this thing fits if I ever get it finished!


----------



## RobbiD

mom2grif said:


> I'm done with my right side waist shaping! Erica is a genius! I am amazed how it all came back together to be in line with the chart and is ready to just continue across the back.


Absolutely beautiful!


----------



## RobbiD

Jill2 said:


> When I swatched with a size 8 my gauge came out just like yours, 16 and 21
> So, I made 1 size smaller...a 36 instead of a 38.
> Keeping in mind that I'm using 100% wool and am able to block, the fit is perfect.
> 
> Just my $.02 worth!


Jill2, and anyone else that has gotten past the body: 
HELP!! I knitted my swatches. Went from 8's down to 7's down to 6's. Swatch was right on the money. Finished the body and just put it aside and started the right upper front. Got all my increases done, no problem. Measured the angled side, which should have been approximately 9 3/4" for size 38. Mine measured nearly 12! got out the ruler and checked gauge again. Still getting 17stX21rows. figured before I frogged the whole body I would measure it(which I hadn't done til now. 42" along the middle cable. WTH? So I tried the upper right front with size 4's. Again gauge is right on but the angle side still measures over 11". Needless to say, I am frogging the entire body and starting over, but what the heck am I doing wrong? I have never had my gauge _grow_ like this before.


----------



## Jill2

Robbi......dang!.....I feel your frustration. I'm at a loss regarding suggestions, but not understanding how you would be getting the same gauge with such a variety of needle sizes....WTH is an understatement!

Lets hope one of the other ladies will speak up with a suggestion.


----------



## RobbiD

Jill2 said:


> Robbi......dang!.....I feel your frustration. I'm at a loss regarding suggestions, but not understanding how you would be getting the same gauge with such a variety of needle sizes....WTH is an understatement!
> 
> Lets hope one of the other ladies will speak up with a suggestion.


I know gauge varies because of mood, comfort level, even from yarn to yarn of the same weight. I know I knit loosely, so I tried the 7's and 8's just to be sure, and was not surprised by needing to use 6's. But then to have re-knit the same thing on 4's and still get the right gauge has really got me stumped. Especially since I still don't get the right measurement. I have honestly never experienced anything like this before. The durned thing would have fit my 6'3, 225lb Honey! He just helped me frog the whole thing. I honestly think he was more upset than I was. Right now, I think I am more confused than frustrated. Oh well, I _knew_ things were going too smoothly. :roll:


----------



## beaz

I need help understanding chart A: it seems the row 1 start is lower R alternating with left start on row 2, etc. Do I go across entire first row slipping those stitches with dark shaded boxes then repeat the red box 4 times and start left on row 2?


----------



## mom2grif

The black boxes are not stitches , they are just placeholders for future increases. And yes row one r to l, row 2 l to r.


----------



## Jill2

I'm so sorry you had to frog your sweater! 
What is the fiber content of the yarn you're using?
When you decide to start again, and since we wear the same size, I'll be happy to give you measurements any time you want, maybe that way you'll be sure it's not growing again. 
I'm still stumped about the problems with your gauge.


----------



## Jill2

beaz said:


> I need help understanding chart A: it seems the row 1 start is lower R alternating with left start on row 2, etc. Do I go across entire first row slipping those stitches with dark shaded boxes then repeat the red box 4 times and start left on row 2?


And, when working row 1, knit to the second red line, then repeat what in within the red box 3 more times...then finish the rest of the row on the left side of the red box.


----------



## questmiller

beaz said:


> I need help understanding chart A: it seems the row 1 start is lower R alternating with left start on row 2, etc. Do I go across entire first row slipping those stitches with dark shaded boxes then repeat the red box 4 times and start left on row 2?


Another way to think about it is that you simply skip the black boxes and go on to the next stitch. Pretend they are not there. The reason they are there is for ease of chart writing. The knitted piece is not a rectangle--it grows and decreases. Good luck!


----------



## Oh Donna

beaz said:


> I need help understanding chart A: it seems the row 1 start is lower R alternating with left start on row 2, etc. Do I go across entire first row slipping those stitches with dark shaded boxes then repeat the red box 4 times and start left on row 2?


don't slip----SKIP the grey boxes
Row 1 start on the right and work left--as soon as you finish what's in the red box part, go back and do it again --and again--and again 
--4 times total..then keep going left and do the rest of the row

Row 2 is left to right--don't know if I can explain this properly--uh, if a stitch is knit then knit it; if it's purl then purl it--you're doing ribbing.

I hope this helps; hope I didn't confuse you more.


----------



## beaz

Think I understand, thanks all. Am still considered about the gauge of 16 st. Won't this affect the width?


----------



## peachy51

beaz said:


> Think I understand, thanks all. Am still considered about the gauge of 16 st. Won't this affect the width?


Actually on the main body piece the width of your stitches will affect the top to bottom measurement of the sweater since it is knit side-to-side. If you are getting the 21 stitch gauge on row height, you should be fine unless you want a longer sweater, in which case you can add the additional stitches Erica talks about on the bottom stockinette portion.

On the separate pieces for the back and front tops, you might want to go to another sized needle where you get the correct width gauge.


----------



## Erica Patberg

Hi! My 6 year old was really sick. Three days of projectile vomiting, and crying and throwing up and writhing with stomach pain throughout the night. We've both slept through the night for the first time in 3 days, and I've washed all the walls, floors, bedclothes. So! I'm back! I'll read through the last few pages of posts over the next few days. I'll also post a PDF that has the line about knitting extra rows on the cardigan front removed by Tuesday. Lots to catch up on, but it's all easier with a good night's sleep and a healthy child!


----------



## peachy51

Erica Patberg said:


> Hi! My 6 year old was really sick. Three days of projectile vomiting, and crying and throwing up and writhing with stomach pain throughout the night. We've both slept through the night for the first time in 3 days, and I've washed all the walls, floors, bedclothes. So! I'm back! I'll read through the last few pages of posts over the next few days. I'll also post a PDF that has the line about knitting extra rows on the cardigan front removed by Tuesday. Lots to catch up on, but it's all easier with a good night's sleep and a healthy child!


Erica, I do hope your little one is ok ... sounds like you haven't been having any fun at all.

Get some sleep, Girl! Nothing going on here that we haven't been able to work through so far. But we have missed you and are glad to hear that all is well now.


----------



## Carolinesol

RobbiD said:


> Jill2, and anyone else that has gotten past the body:
> HELP!! I knitted my swatches. Went from 8's down to 7's down to 6's. Swatch was right on the money. Finished the body and just put it aside and started the right upper front. Got all my increases done, no problem. Measured the angled side, which should have been approximately 9 3/4" for size 38. Mine measured nearly 12! got out the ruler and checked gauge again. Still getting 17stX21rows. figured before I frogged the whole body I would measure it(which I hadn't done til now. 42" along the middle cable. WTH? So I tried the upper right front with size 4's. Again gauge is right on but the angle side still measures over 11". Needless to say, I am frogging the entire body and starting over, but what the heck am I doing wrong? I have never had my gauge _grow_ like this before.


Hi. Not sure if this is any help. I have done size 36. When I sowed mine together the shoulders hung wrong which I felt was because of the front top being to big. So took out sleeves removed fronts and back and redid in the smallest size. It now all fits together well. Do you think you should try this instead of undoing it all ?
I finished last night but my I cord looks terrible so I am going to undo it today!


----------



## RobbiD

Jill2 said:


> I'm so sorry you had to frog your sweater!
> What is the fiber content of the yarn you're using?
> When you decide to start again, and since we wear the same size, I'll be happy to give you measurements any time you want, maybe that way you'll be sure it's not growing again.
> I'm still stumped about the problems with your gauge.


I'm using Bernat Satin which is 100% Acrylic. I will be starting again today. If nothing else, I am _very_ stubborn  . Ain't gonna let no knitting pattern, or yarn, get the best of me! I *will* win! Thank you for the offer of the measurements, I'm sure will be contacting you as I start up again, and get rolling. Did you say that you knitted the size 36, even though you wear a 38?


----------



## RobbiD

Carolinesol said:


> Hi. Not sure if this is any help. I have done size 36. When I sowed mine together the shoulders hung wrong which I felt was because of the front top being to big. So took out sleeves removed fronts and back and redid in the smallest size. It now all fits together well. Do you think you should try this instead of undoing it all ?
> I finished last night but my I cord looks terrible so I am going to undo it today!


Carolinesol, I tried redoing the upper front first. I was *not* looking forward to frogging the whole body, believe me. But when I dropped down to size 4 needles, and knit the smaller size of the pattern, and still couldn't get close to 9 3/4" diagonal measurement, decided to measure the body. Low and behold, the 38" I was knitting was suddenly over 42" :shock: So frogged the whole thing. Gonna play with swatches, then start again. I wonder if dye lot affects the thickness of the yarn? Original swatches were from one dye lot and started knitting from the other. Hmmm.


----------



## beaz

So the back is the same size for everyone and it is just the front sections that provides your knitted size?


----------



## Jill2

Oops


----------



## gdhavens

Maryann I just looked at your picture. You are doing GREAT! I have just started the upper back. I hate seaming, so I am trying to pick up the back stitches from the body. Just my way of trying it. I am wondering if the seaming would support the weight of the body better than the picking up stitches, but I am considering my sweater a "prototype" so will keep experimenting. I LOVE this pattern, regardless of how it turns out. A challenge and so fun when the pattern and cables work out!!!


----------



## Jill2

beaz said:


> So the back is the same size for everyone and it is just the front sections that provides your knitted size?


See the bottom lines on page 3.....body back.

Different sizes repeat charts B & C more/fewer times.


----------



## gdhavens

I wonder how many are actually making/waiting to make this sweater? In the original post, there were quite a few that were anxiously awaiting the pattern.

I think we should all plan on wearing our sweaters on "Black Friday", the day after Thanksgiving, Friday Nov. 29. It would be fun to be out shopping and see how many are in "our sweater."


----------



## Kissnntell

oh that is an awesome idea!!
i never do black fridays, but for this i surely would!
we should pick some national/international chain if we could find something, to ensure we could find each other


----------



## Jill2

Erica Patberg said:


> Hi! My 6 year old was really sick. Three days of projectile vomiting, and crying and throwing up and writhing with stomach pain throughout the night. We've both slept through the night for the first time in 3 days, and I've washed all the walls, floors, bedclothes. So! I'm back! I'll read through the last few pages of posts over the next few days. I'll also post a PDF that has the line about knitting extra rows on the cardigan front removed by Tuesday. Lots to catch up on, but it's all easier with a good night's sleep and a healthy child!


Erica, so sorry your baby was so sick! Poor little thing! Glad to hear all is back to normal and you both have caught up on sleep!


----------



## maryannn

gdhavens said:


> Maryann I just looked at your picture. You are doing GREAT! I have just started the upper back. I hate seaming, so I am trying to pick up the back stitches from the body. Just my way of trying it. I am wondering if the seaming would support the weight of the body better than the picking up stitches, but I am considering my sweater a "prototype" so will keep experimenting. I LOVE this pattern, regardless of how it turns out. A challenge and so fun when the pattern and cables work out!!!


Thanks, Darla and I could not do this sweater without you helping me.
MA


----------



## Carolinesol

gdhavens said:


> I wonder how many are actually making/waiting to make this sweater? In the original post, there were quite a few that were anxiously awaiting the pattern.
> 
> I think we should all plan on wearing our sweaters on "Black Friday", the day after Thanksgiving, Friday Nov. 29. It would be fun to be out shopping and see how many are in "our sweater."


I wonder how many ladies on the *ISLE OF WIGHT*are doing the cardigan. It would be nice for us to meet up also.....


----------



## Carolinesol

gdhavens said:


> Maryann I just looked at your picture. You are doing GREAT! I have just started the upper back. I hate seaming, so I am trying to pick up the back stitches from the body. Just my way of trying it. I am wondering if the seaming would support the weight of the body better than the picking up stitches, but I am considering my sweater a "prototype" so will keep experimenting. I LOVE this pattern, regardless of how it turns out. A challenge and so fun when the pattern and cables work out!!!


When I redid my front and back top bits I picked up the sts on the back as I thought it would look neater and it did for me..


----------



## Carolinesol

Erica Patberg said:


> Hi! My 6 year old was really sick. Three days of projectile vomiting, and crying and throwing up and writhing with stomach pain throughout the night. We've both slept through the night for the first time in 3 days, and I've washed all the walls, floors, bedclothes. So! I'm back! I'll read through the last few pages of posts over the next few days. I'll also post a PDF that has the line about knitting extra rows on the cardigan front removed by Tuesday. Lots to catch up on, but it's all easier with a good night's sleep and a healthy child!


Glad your little one is on the mend..... Feeling better.


----------



## beaz

So what is the body then if not the back, is it the lower portion and then you go on to the back. I am cofused and would like to get started and thought if the body is the same for all sizes, this is where to start. Please clarify, thank you


----------



## mom2grif

beaz said:


> So what is the body then if not the back, is it the lower portion and then you go on to the back. I am cofused and would like to get started and thought if the body is the same for all sizes, this is where to start. Please clarify, thank you


Baez, I think if you'll get started and follow the instructions you will see things come together. There were things I was unclear about but understood when I got to it. The cable part which wraps your torso is knit using chart A-D. It starts with the right front and works around your body and end at the left front. The right and left top fronts are added later as well as the top back. Dive in! It'll all fall into place as you move along! You can do it! One step at a time!


----------



## Carolinesol

beaz said:


> So what is the body then if not the back, is it the lower portion and then you go on to the back. I am cofused and would like to get started and thought if the body is the same for all sizes, this is where to start. Please clarify, thank you


I expect you know this already but... You start at the right front and work around the body back to the left front. Then you do the upper right front, then the upper left front, then the upper back. Page 6 shows a picture .


----------



## janwalla

gdhavens said:


> I wonder how many are actually making/waiting to make this sweater? In the original post, there were quite a few that were anxiously awaiting the pattern.
> 
> I think we should all plan on wearing our sweaters on "Black Friday", the day after Thanksgiving, Friday Nov. 29. It would be fun to be out shopping and see how many are in "our sweater."


Ive still to take the plunge! I did try had to frog my yarn, I got in a tangle and i put it to one side and concentrated on WIP's most are done now, so maybe Ill actually start to untangle and cast on!! LOL :lol:


----------



## Needleme

Erica Patberg said:


> Hi! My 6 year old was really sick. Three days of projectile vomiting, and crying and throwing up and writhing with stomach pain throughout the night. We've both slept through the night for the first time in 3 days, and I've washed all the walls, floors, bedclothes. So! I'm back! I'll read through the last few pages of posts over the next few days. I'll also post a PDF that has the line about knitting extra rows on the cardigan front removed by Tuesday. Lots to catch up on, but it's all easier with a good night's sleep and a healthy child!


You poor thing-- there is nothing harder to bear than when your child is sick! Glad everyone's on the mend!


----------



## pinsandneedles

RobbiD said:


> Jill2, and anyone else that has gotten past the body:
> HELP!! I knitted my swatches. Went from 8's down to 7's down to 6's. Swatch was right on the money. Finished the body and just put it aside and started the right upper front. Got all my increases done, no problem. Measured the angled side, which should have been approximately 9 3/4" for size 38. Mine measured nearly 12! got out the ruler and checked gauge again. Still getting 17stX21rows. figured before I frogged the whole body I would measure it(which I hadn't done til now. 42" along the middle cable. WTH? So I tried the upper right front with size 4's. Again gauge is right on but the angle side still measures over 11". Needless to say, I am frogging the entire body and starting over, but what the heck am I doing wrong? I have never had my gauge _grow_ like this before.


OH BOY, I'm in the same boat as you, gauge is right on with sz. 8 needles but when doing the body it's way too big, so today will frog the whole thing and start over. I'm determined to do this. I've never had this problem before so am baffled. Don't remember reading anything about the ease factor,wondering if that could be part of the cause.


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## Grazia

*questmiller*Beautifully done cardigan. I see that you are very happy.

I have already done the fronts and back. Now I do sleeves from the bottom.


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## mom2grif

I'm feeling like mine is going to be too big! I have 26 rows per 4" so it should be too small, but when I hold it up it seems too big. I've done 2 repeats of chart B on the back and am in a quandary. Oy vey!


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## questmiller

Grazia said:


> *questmiller*Beautifully done cardigan. I see that you are very happy.
> 
> I have already done the fronts and back. Now I do sleeves from the bottom.


Thanks. When Erica gave out the sleeve pattern, I knit them so when my body was done, I just had to block and sew. I think I shall have to do this in the future. I think having to do the sleeves at the end is a little overwhelming for me...
I'm anxious to see your sweater!


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## questmiller

Erica Patberg said:


> Hi! My 6 year old was really sick. Three days of projectile vomiting, and crying and throwing up and writhing with stomach pain throughout the night. We've both slept through the night for the first time in 3 days, and I've washed all the walls, floors, bedclothes. So! I'm back! I'll read through the last few pages of posts over the next few days. I'll also post a PDF that has the line about knitting extra rows on the cardigan front removed by Tuesday. Lots to catch up on, but it's all easier with a good night's sleep and a healthy child!


Hope everything is better in the Patberg home. We missed you!


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## RobbiD

pinsandneedles said:


> OH BOY, I'm in the same boat as you, gauge is right on with sz. 8 needles but when doing the body it's way too big, so today will frog the whole thing and start over. I'm determined to do this. I've never had this problem before so am baffled. Don't remember reading anything about the ease factor,wondering if that could be part of the cause.


Pinsandneedles, ease factor is one thing, but 5"+? I have re-swatched, again, and now I'm getting 16sX21r on size 4 needles. I'm not real concerned about the 16 sts, as I like my sweaters a bit longer (I'm what used to be called "long-waisted"). I'm gonna start over today and see what happens. I was going to cut down to a size 36, but it seems there is really no difference in the two sizes until the top pieces and sleeves. Keeping my fingers crossed for you, Susan, me, and anyone else who seems to be having this problem. I'm starting to wonder if it's because the yarn is acrylic and not wool? There has to be _some_ explanation.


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## RobbiD

mom2grif said:


> I'm feeling like mine is going to be too big! I have 26 rows per 4" so it should be too small, but when I hold it up it seems too big. I've done 2 repeats of chart B on the back and am in a quandary. Oy vey!


I'm keeping my fingers crossed for you, Susan. As for me, I can't go down many more needle sizes, so I sure hope it works this time!


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## Jill2

mom2grif said:


> I'm feeling like mine is going to be too big! I have 26 rows per 4" so it should be too small, but when I hold it up it seems too big. I've done 2 repeats of chart B on the back and am in a quandary. Oy vey!


Susan, what size are you making?


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## murf

Help! just got started, and i've never done charts before. so i'm not sure if i'm reading them right. On chart A Row 3 Sl1 on cn hold front k1 then k1 from cn.Got that but im not sure if im reading the rest right. R9 Sl2 k1 k2 from cn. R15 sl2 k2 k2 from cn R23 sl3k2 k3 fromcn R33 sl3 k3 k3 from cn R43 sl4 k3 k4 from cn then chartB R9 Im I reading that right? Im so unsure of myself.


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## peachy51

murf said:


> Help! just got started, and i've never done charts before. so i'm not sure if i'm reading them right. On chart A Row 3 Sl1 on cn hold front k1 then k1 from cn.Got that but im not sure if im reading the rest right. R9 Sl2 k1 k2 from cn. R15 sl2 k2 k2 from cn R23 sl3k2 k3 fromcn R33 sl3 k3 k3 from cn R43 sl4 k3 k4 from cn then chartB R9 Im I reading that right? Im so unsure of myself.


Your cables will continuously become larger as you go until you get to the 4x4 cable. Be careful and watch them tho because you need to count the blocks on the chart to know exactly how large the cable is. Some of them are not even, i.e. you will have some that are 3x2 and 4x3 so counting the blocks is imperative.

When you write slip above, you aren't slipping the stitches in the traditional sense, you are slipping them onto the cable needle.

Chart B, Row nine is a 4x4 cable and that will be the same cable until the middle of the back of the piece. Then you will switch to Chart C which is also a 4x4 cable, but the stitches will be held to the back to make it twist the other way for the other half of the back.


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## Carolinesol

Jill2 said:


> Oops


Well. Here is mine finished... I still need to press it, but a bit worried about it. Really enjoyed making this. Thanks to everyone for all of there help.


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## Patchworkcat

Carolinesol said:


> Well. Here is mine finished... I still need to press it, but a bit worried about it. Really enjoyed making this. Thanks to everyone for all of there help.


So beautiful! Job well done!

Jill


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## mom2grif

Oh Caroline! It's simply gorgeous!!!


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## Jill2

Carolinesol said:


> Well. Here is mine finished... I still need to press it, but a bit worried about it. Really enjoyed making this. Thanks to everyone for all of there help.


Yeah Caroline! You look beautiful in your gorgeous new sweater!!
Well done...everything looks perfect!


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## Carolinesol

Thanks ladies.....


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## murf

Thanks Peachy51. maybe now i'll beable to do this sweater. Carolinesol Beautiful.


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## peachy51

Caroline! It looks gorgeous :thumbup:


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## mom2grif

Jill2 said:


> Susan, what size are you making?


Jill, I measure about 46 at the bust, and was making the 48 which I thought would be ok because of the more rows per inch. I've frogged it back and pulled out one of the 2 chart B repeats before the shaping and I think it will be just fine. As I work across the back I'll decide how many repeats to do of charts B and C to get right.


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## maryannn

Carolinesol said:


> Well. Here is mine finished... I still need to press it, but a bit worried about it. Really enjoyed making this. Thanks to everyone for all of there help.


Wonderful sweater. It is beautiful. Are you going to make another like it?
Mary Ann


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## gdhavens

Carolinesol, your sweater is BEAUTIFUL! I am working on mine and hoping it turns out as well as yours.


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## charlenekbenton

Great job, Carolinesol....I've finished chart A but have taken a breather since my knitting time has been limited & not able to concentrate fully so hopefully will start again next week. Such a beauty of a sweater we are so blessed to be able to knit thanks to Erica's talented design! Can't wait to see everybody's sweaters.


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## kittys punkin

questmiller and Caroline, your sweaters are beautiful!!! I just hope that I can master this and have a sweater half as good as yours.


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## catlover1960

Carolinesol said:


> Well. Here is mine finished... I still need to press it, but a bit worried about it. Really enjoyed making this. Thanks to everyone for all of there help.


Great job. The sweater looks beautiful on you. I am finally swatching to get the right needle size.


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## Jill2

mom2grif said:


> Jill, I measure about 46 at the bust, and was making the 48 which I thought would be ok because of the more rows per inch. I've frogged it back and pulled out one of the 2 chart B repeats before the shaping and I think it will be just fine. As I work across the back I'll decide how many repeats to do of charts B and C to get right.


Oh good... Glad to hear you have found a fix.

Sounds like a good plan.


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## beaz

Good job Carol, well done!


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## Jessica-Jean

Carolinesol said:


> Well. Here is mine finished... I still need to press it, but a bit worried about it. Really enjoyed making this. Thanks to everyone for all of there help.


If you're not inundated with requests for where you got it, then whoever's not asking is just blind! Lovely job!


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## beaz

I am still confused, if I am to work on right side, back and then left side, how do I read this pattern when there isn't any R or L side. Don't I start with the body and then work Chart A, where does the right side start and where is the stockinette part at the bottom. I have never seen or worked on a chart like this before, so I apologize for all the questions.


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## Jill2

beaz said:


> I am still confused, if I am to work on right side, back and then left side, how do I read this pattern when there isn't any R or L side. Don't I start with the body and then work Chart A, where does the right side start and where is the stockinette part at the bottom. I have never seen or worked on a chart like this before, so I apologize for all the questions.


I think you are over thinking this....it definitely is not knit in the traditional manner.....just do the cast on and follow the directions row by row.....very shortly thereafter you will experience your personal ah-ha moment....just like the rest of us did.
You can do this....we've got your back.
Go ahead and give it a shot....nothing to lose.

Maybe this will help..
The body section is outlined in green.
:thumbup:


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## peachy51

beaz said:


> I am still confused, if I am to work on right side, back and then left side, how do I read this pattern when there isn't any R or L side. Don't I start with the body and then work Chart A, where does the right side start and where is the stockinette part at the bottom. I have never seen or worked on a chart like this before, so I apologize for all the questions.


Chart A is your right side, Charts B & C will be the back and Chart D is the left side. I think if you will just trust the pattern and follow the directions exactly as written, it will click for you as you go along 

The stockinette part at the bottom is the left side of Chart A.


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## lulu11

Caroline I love your sweater great job
Erica hope your little one feels better soon


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## Lavenderpainter

Beautiful work! I have not had the chance to get started yet but I can't wait since I see your masterpiece!


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## beaz

Thanks for taking the time to draw this out for me. Jill. Now I can visualize it better. Was hoping to start on the body because all sizes had the same cast on. However, upon Erica's advice, I measured my daughter and looks I need the 36 rather than the 34. She normally would buy a small or extra small so now I am wondering if the 36 would not be too big - what do you think.


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## Jill2

What row gauge are you getting?.....it's the most important gauge for this part of the sweater since it is worked horizontally.

What is your daughter's bust measurement?


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## peachy51

beaz said:


> Thanks for taking the time to draw this out for me. Jill. Now I can visualize it better. Was hoping to start on the body because all sizes had the same cast on. However, upon Erica's advice, I measured my daughter and looks I need the 36 rather than the 34. She normally would buy a small or extra small so now I am wondering if the 36 would not be too big - what do you think.


I'm thinking a 36 would be too big for her. I usually buy a 36 or a medium and I'm making the 36 for me. I put mine around my daughter the other day and it is a good bit too large for her. She also usually buys a small or extra small.

I have 4 more rows on the main body and then I'm going to put mine around me and see how it fits. I'll come back and edit this post in just a bit.

EDIT: Ok, I have finished the main body now and put it around me. Looks like it's going to fit perfectly. I usually buy a medium in a top and wear a 36D bra. Hope that helps with sizing.


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## Jill2

Jill2 said:


> What row gauge are you getting?.....it's the most important gauge for this part of the sweater since it is worked horizontally.
> 
> What is your daughter's bust measurement?


Also, what is the fiber content of the yarn you plan on using?


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## beaz

Jill2 said:


> Also, what is the fiber content of the yarn you plan on using?


Bust measurement is 35-1/2 loosely fitted tape, she wears a 34 bra but when I measure under bust it is close to 32. She is 5'5 so don't want to end up with something looking like a niteshirt.
Yarn is acrylic: Red Hearty comfort (this was the closest color to what she wanted) so we shop by color and ease of washing.
Last row gauge was 16 st x 21 on size 9 needle


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## Jill2

beaz said:


> Bust measurement is 35-1/2 loosely fitted tape, she wears a 34 bra but when I measure under bust it is close to 32. She is 5'5 so don't want to end up with something looking like a niteshirt.
> Yarn is acrylic: Red Hearty comfort (this was the closest color to what she wanted) so we shop by color and ease of washing.
> Last row gauge was 16 st x 21 on size 9 needle


I'm with Peachy....I would go for the 34.
Thanks Peachy for your input!


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## RobbiD

Carolinesol said:


> Well. Here is mine finished... I still need to press it, but a bit worried about it. Really enjoyed making this. Thanks to everyone for all of there help.


Looks absolutely fantabulous :!: Hope mine looks as good. IF it ever gets finished.


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## beaz

Jill2 said:


> I'm with Peachy....I would go for the 34.
> Thanks Peachy for your input!


Thanks to both of you: I will plan on starting tomorrow then.


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## RobbiD

beaz said:


> Thanks to both of you: I will plan on starting tomorrow then.


beaz, I'll be right along with you. Just started over again, today.


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## peachy51

Now I have a question. As you know, I had to forego the original yarn I wanted to make this out of because it just didn't want to be this sweater :roll: 

So I found some yarn in my stash and it is 100% acrylic (if it turns out and fits I plan to make another out of nice yarn). Since it is acrylic, do y'all think the pieces should be blocked before seaming? I don't see the point with acrylic, but need comments.


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## beaz

peachy51 said:


> Now I have a question. As you know, I had to forego the original yarn I wanted to make this out of because it just didn't want to be this sweater :roll:
> 
> So I found some yarn in my stash and it is 100% acrylic (if it turns out and fits I plan to make another out of nice yarn). Since it is acrylic, do y'all think the pieces should be blocked before seaming? I don't see the point with acrylic, but need comments.


I would pin it and steam but I have only blocked hats so I am also interested in the response.


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## beaz

RobbiD said:


> beaz, I'll be right along with you. Just started over again, today.


I feel so bad for you having to start again. Did you get your gauge fixed. I had a heck of a time and still not pleased but if I can knit it to look decent, I will be happy. With all the nice folks here and all the support, we are fortunate indeed.


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## Marienkaeferoma

Hi everyone! Just got my yarn yesterday, and did a swatch with #7 needles. I got 20 stitches and 27 rows. I need to go up in needle size, right?


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## peachy51

Marienkaeferoma said:


> Hi everyone! Just got my yarn yesterday, and did a swatch with #7 needles. I got 20 stitches and 27 rows. I need to go up in needle size, right?


Yes, you are right. Try a #8 and see what you get.


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## questmiller

Carolinesol said:


> Well. Here is mine finished... I still need to press it, but a bit worried about it. Really enjoyed making this. Thanks to everyone for all of there help.


Looking good! I like the four buttons instead of three. 
What are you worried about?


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## Carolinesol

maryannn said:


> Wonderful sweater. It is beautiful. Are you going to make another like it?
> Mary Ann


Hi Mary ann. Thanks for your comments. I bought 2x400g balls of yarn as that's all I could get here and I used 1 ball but when I had to undo my I cord band I had to use a tiny bit from the new ball ! So cannot return it... Sorry long story... So yes I am hoping to make one for my mum (she's 81) I will a smaller size for her. 
Hope you are getting on ok with yours the picture looked very good.


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## Carolinesol

Thanks again for all your lovely comments ladies. Keep knitting. Caroline


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## Jill2

peachy51 said:


> Now I have a question. As you know, I had to forego the original yarn I wanted to make this out of because it just didn't want to be this sweater :roll:
> 
> So I found some yarn in my stash and it is 100% acrylic (if it turns out and fits I plan to make another out of nice yarn). Since it is acrylic, do y'all think the pieces should be blocked before seaming? I don't see the point with acrylic, but need comments.


Peachy, I would definitely block it before seaming, but I would be afraid to use steam. Acrylic yarn is so sensitive to steam and too much steam can really change the integrity of the yarn. I would pin it to size/shape, and either give it a good spritz with water or press water into it with a wet cloth. Then let it dry thoroughly. 
Just my $.02 worth 
:lol:


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## Carolinesol

questmiller said:


> Looking good! I like the four buttons instead of three.
> What are you worried about?


Thanks for that. Only worried about pressing it. 
When I did my first I-cord band I felt I needed an extra button and as I had to undo it all I bought new buttons plus 1. They match the cardi very well although they look different colour in picture.


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## peachy51

Jill2 said:


> Peachy, I would definitely block it before seaming, but I would be afraid to use steam. Acrylic yarn is so sensitive to steam and too much steam can really change the integrity of the yarn. I would pin it to size/shape, and either give it a good spritz with water or press water into it with a wet cloth. Then let it dry thoroughly.
> Just my $.02 worth
> :lol:


Thank you, Jill 

I was worried about steam too and thought spritzing would be the way to do it. (Besides my daughter is out of town for a wedding and borrowed my hand-held steamer to take with her, so I don't have it here and am too impatient to wait for her to get back home ... LOL)

I will do that today and seam when it is dry. Then I'm going to try my sleeves from top down in the round. Wish me luck :mrgreen:


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## Jill2

peachy51 said:


> Thank you, Jill
> 
> I was worried about steam too and thought spritzing would be the way to do it. (Besides my daughter is out of town for a wedding and borrowed my hand-held steamer to take with her, so I don't have it here and am too impatient to wait for her to get back home ... LOL)
> 
> I will do that today and seam when it is dry. Then I'm going to try my sleeves from top down in the round. Wish me luck :mrgreen:


You got it..."Good Luck"

I'm approaching the wrist on my first top down sleeve, Paula Ward style. 
It looks perfect...I'll post a pic of my one armed sweater later today.


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## maryannn

Carolinesol said:


> Hi Mary ann. Thanks for your comments. I bought 2x400g balls of yarn as that's all I could get here and I used 1 ball but when I had to undo my I cord band I had to use a tiny bit from the new ball ! So cannot return it... Sorry long story... So yes I am hoping to make one for my mum (she's 81) I will a smaller size for her.
> Hope you are getting on ok with yours the picture looked very good.


I am going to get along better as I am starting the back, which is easy compared to the right front. I always used to do knitting that had a challenge. Now I am not so sure. I made a sequined top that had close to 10,000 sequins knitted in. That took me a long time as I had to separate each sequin before knitting them. It is light blue
I once made a large sunflower afghan using the afghan stitch. Had to change colors many many times.
Also I made my great granddaughter a felted coat and had to cast on 800 stitches. I have made 80 felted handbags. (I have my own web sight.)
Anyhow, this sweater knitting is slow.
We have been to Engand and love the beautiful country.
Mary Ann


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## RobbiD

beaz said:


> I feel so bad for you having to start again. Did you get your gauge fixed. I had a heck of a time and still not pleased but if I can knit it to look decent, I will be happy. With all the nice folks here and all the support, we are fortunate indeed.


I think I got my gauge problem fixed, but I thought I had it the first time. I had to drop down to size 4 needles. Not as happy with the feel of the fabric, though. I have just started the shapings, so I am hoping it turns out. If it "grows" again, I will have to decide whether to just abandon my attempt, or try another type of yarn. We are on a very fixed income, so different yarn will have to be something I would really have to think about. But I am hopeful all will go well this time. And, yes, there are some really wonderful people in this KAL. All willing to help and encourage. It's a great experience for doing a KAL for the very first time.


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## janwalla

Jessica-Jean said:


> If you're not inundated with requests for where you got it, then whoever's not asking is just blind! Lovely job!


 :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:


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## RobbiD

Jill2 said:


> You got it..."Good Luck"
> 
> I'm approaching the wrist on my first top down sleeve, Paula Ward style.
> It looks perfect...I'll post a pic of my one armed sweater later today.


Can't wait to see how your sleeves come out. Should I get that far, that is what I had planned to do.
PS, if it's not too much trouble, can you tell me what measurement you have from the CO edge to the end of chart A, beginning of chart B? I have 8 3/4". I am determined to knit this sweater, but don't want it "growing" again.


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## janwalla

RobbiD said:


> I think I got my gauge problem fixed, but I thought I had it the first time. I had to drop down to size 4 needles. Not as happy with the feel of the fabric, though. I have just started the shapings, so I am hoping it turns out. If it "grows" again, I will have to decide whether to just abandon my attempt, or try another type of yarn. We are on a very fixed income, so different yarn will have to be something I would really have to think about. But I am hopeful all will go well this time. And, yes, there are some really wonderful people in this KAL. All willing to help and encourage. It's a great experience for doing a KAL for the very first time.


My tension/gauge always changes throughout the process, I think its cos the yarn stretches every time we move it about. To be honest, I never bothered with swatches or blocking (didn't think it was a must) I only heard about it when on here. Luckily everything Ive made over the years have been fine and washing of the article always tightens up the yarn again. I dont knit the swatch the same way as I knit the item either, I dont know if its cos its small or cos Im trying too hard and not relaxed enough. Ill have to see how mine cardi turns out lol :lol: :lol:


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## peachy51

RobbiD said:


> Can't wait to see how your sleeves come out. Should I get that far, that is what I had planned to do.
> PS, if it's not too much trouble, can you tell me what measurement you have from the CO edge to the end of chart A, beginning of chart B? I have 8 3/4". I am determined to knit this sweater, but don't want it "growing" again.


Robbie, mine is about 8-1/2" from the CO edge to the end of chart A.


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## RobbiD

janwalla said:


> My tension/gauge always changes throughout the process, I think its cos the yarn stretches every time we move it about. To be honest, I never bothered with swatches or blocking (didn't think it was a must) I only heard about it when on here. Luckily everything Ive made over the years have been fine and washing of the article always tightens up the yarn again. I dont knit the swatch the same way as I knit the item either, I dont know if its cos its small or cos Im trying too hard and not relaxed enough. Ill have to see how mine cardi turns out lol :lol: :lol:


Janwalla, I have to admit it's been a long time since I've had a problem. I never swatched either, before. I knew I knitted loosley, so automatically dropped 2 needle sizes from the size recommended, and it always worked. This pattern, I swatched for days, cuz I wanted to do Erica's design justice. And still got it wrong. Go figure.


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## RobbiD

peachy51 said:


> Robbie, mine is about 8-1/2" from the CO edge to the end of chart A.


Thanks Peachy. Did you find a difference in your gauge when you switched to an acrylic yarn? And please let me know how your steaming works, as I have never blocked acrylic (or anything else, for that matter). Thanks again for the measurement. Will probably be asking for more, as I get further along  .


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## Jill2

RobbiD said:


> Can't wait to see how your sleeves come out. Should I get that far, that is what I had planned to do.
> PS, if it's not too much trouble, can you tell me what measurement you have from the CO edge to the end of chart A, beginning of chart B? I have 8 3/4". I am determined to knit this sweater, but don't want it "growing" again.


Robbie, I measured along the center waistline cable and I get 6".
DANG! What is happening???
Let's see if we can get more measurements from some others who have finished chart A.


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## Jill2

Good to see that Peachy has 8-1/2"!!!


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## Jill2

I need to explain why I think my measurement is smaller.....I had forgotten about having done this....kind of a selective memory thing.

Way back on page 25, when I first finished my body, you may/may not remember that I thought it was way too big and considered frogging.
Well....when it was still damp from the initial blocking I put it in the dryer with some damp towels. Every 2 minutes I checked it, after about 6 minutes I could tell a difference and let it finish drying on the towel. 
So, because of that, I'm thinking my measurements are not good ones to use when comparing to yours.
Sorry for any momentary stress I may have caused you!


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## beaz

For those of you having problems with gauge, you might want to check out this website as this relates to the varying gauge between needle manufacturers. This happened to me with Knitter's Pride size 9 needle that actually measured 10.
http://curlsandq.com/tag/knitters-pride-needles/


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## AverilC

questmiller said:


> Here's mine. I'm at the place where I am increasing for the bottom section while doing the short row shaping. Notice that I choose to not change the cable direction at the center back. I hope it will work out OK at the front... I put in a lifeline just in case...


I also am thinking of not changing cable direction and wondered if you have any pictures of how the cables look when body section finished. Does it look very different when cables are opposite. Would love to see the effect if you have pictures.

thanks


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## judsretired

beaz said:


> For those of you having problems with gauge, you might want to check out this website as this relates to the varying gauge between needle manufacturers. This happened to me with Knitter's Pride size 9 needle that actually measured 10.
> http://curlsandq.com/tag/knitters-pride-needles/


Beaz, thank you so much for this link. I think I may have found out why I sometimes have trouble getting gauge. This is such good information to know about.


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## questmiller

Carolinesol said:


> Thanks for that. Only worried about pressing it.
> When I did my first I-cord band I felt I needed an extra button and as I had to undo it all I bought new buttons plus 1. They match the cardi very well although they look different colour in picture.


I'm not much of a sweater presser. I prefer to wet block my pieces. I soak my knits in a softener (I use Eucalan) for a few hours, then gently ring them out and roll in a heavy towel to get most of the water out. Then I lay it out on another towel on the floor and pin as needed. It certainly takes longer, but I've had bad luck with ironing.


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## beaz

Prior to starting, I needed to enlarge Chart A so I could use it on my magnetic holder and this is what I would like to share with anyone who will need it. I will post others as I get to them if anyone is interested. IF ANYONE WANTS ANYTHING ENLARGED, LET ME KNOW AS I HAVE THE SOFTWARE.


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## Carolinesol

questmiller said:


> I'm not much of a sweater presser. I prefer to wet block my pieces. I soak my knits in a softener (I use Eucalan) for a few hours, then gently ring them out and roll in a heavy towel to get most of the water out. Then I lay it out on another towel on the floor and pin as needed. It certainly takes longer, but I've had bad luck with ironing.


Hi. That's why I am worried. I would like cardi to stretch down a bit! If you know what I mean. I might iron with a warm ish iron. Mine is only 20% wool.


----------



## questmiller

AverilC said:


> I also am thinking of not changing cable direction and wondered if you have any pictures of how the cables look when body section finished. Does it look very different when cables are opposite. Would love to see the effect if you have pictures.
> 
> thanks


I just started a new thread in pictures called "Erica's Sunburst Cable Sweater" and I posted three of my photos. You can see two of those photos on page 38 in this thread. I didn't notice any difference with the unswitched cables. I did, however notice that I didn't sew my buttons in the right place, so I will redo that ASAP !!!


----------



## beaz

Even tho I haven't started yet, I have been toying of the idea of a small sunburst or medallion of some sort that could be sewn into the mid back cables to fill in those centers. Any thoughts?


----------



## Grazia

Carolinesol - pretty sweater.


----------



## Carolinesol

Grazia said:


> Carolinesol - pretty sweater.


Thank you. I think we are all doing great work.


----------



## Jill2

beaz said:


> Even tho I haven't started yet, I have been toying of the idea of a small sunburst or medallion of some sort that could be sewn into the mid back cables to fill in those centers. Any thoughts?


IMO I don't think the transition is unsightly. 
I think that an added medallion might tend to look like you are trying to cover up an error.


----------



## beaz

Jill2 said:


> IMO I don't think the transition is unsightly.
> I think that an added medallion might tend to look like you are trying to cover up an error.


Yeah, guess you are right, thanks for the input


----------



## questmiller

beaz said:


> Even tho I haven't started yet, I have been toying of the idea of a small sunburst or medallion of some sort that could be sewn into the mid back cables to fill in those centers. Any thoughts?


Or just don't do the switch and stay with chart B...


----------



## AverilC

questmiller said:


> I just started a new thread in pictures called "Erica's Sunburst Cable Sweater" and I posted three of my photos. You can see two of those photos on page 38 in this thread. I didn't notice any difference with the unswitched cables. I did, however notice that I didn't sew my buttons in the right place, so I will redo that ASAP !!!


Many thanks, I think I will now definitely go with carrying the cable through without changing direction.


----------



## RobbiD

Jill2 said:


> I need to explain why I think my measurement is smaller.....I had forgotten about having done this....kind of a selective memory thing.
> 
> Way back on page 25, when I first finished my body, you may/may not remember that I thought it was way too big and considered frogging.
> Well....when it was still damp from the initial blocking I put it in the dryer with some damp towels. Every 2 minutes I checked it, after about 6 minutes I could tell a difference and let it finish drying on the towel.
> So, because of that, I'm thinking my measurements are not good ones to use when comparing to yours.
> Sorry for any momentary stress I may have caused you!


No stress caused, Jill. Only that from having to frog again. I crossed a cable where it didn't belong  . I was thinking that maybe the yarn had been stretching while I was knitting (from the added weight as the back got longer/wider)? I'm still confused, but still determined to make it work :wink:


----------



## Carole-Jayne

Patchworkcat said:


> So beautiful! Job well done!
> 
> Jill


that is GORGEOUS!!! Well done you - you look as proud as punch. How spectacular is that!!!!!! Well done you!
cj


----------



## RobbiD

beaz said:


> For those of you having problems with gauge, you might want to check out this website as this relates to the varying gauge between needle manufacturers. This happened to me with Knitter's Pride size 9 needle that actually measured 10.
> http://curlsandq.com/tag/knitters-pride-needles/


Great article beaz. I am using Boye neddlemaster inter-changeables, so the manufacturer has been the same. I just don't get it. Ah, well, a conundrum to unravel at a later time. Busy unraveling my knitting, at present! Gotta pay closer attention to those darn cable crosses in the shaping section


----------



## janwalla

questmiller said:


> I just started a new thread in pictures called "Erica's Sunburst Cable Sweater" and I posted three of my photos. You can see two of those photos on page 38 in this thread. I didn't notice any difference with the unswitched cables. I did, however notice that I didn't sew my buttons in the right place, so I will redo that ASAP !!!


I couldnt find your pictures, I used the search at the top too of the page too, could you post a link?


----------



## Carolinesol

Jessica-Jean said:


> If you're not inundated with requests for where you got it, then whoever's not asking is just blind! Lovely job!


Thank you for your comment.


----------



## Jill2

questmiller said:


> Or just don't do the switch and stay with chart B...


Yes, I agree, it worked perfectly for Questmiller.


----------



## Jill2

janwalla said:


> I couldnt find your pictures, I used the search at the top too of the page too, could you post a link?


http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-162285-1.html


----------



## beaz

Need help on Chart A, row 1, am at the M1. If I knit the M1 stitch, it is a purl stitch, then do I put it back on the needle or what. Utube doesn't do it that way that I can see.


----------



## pinsandneedles

beaz said:


> Prior to starting, I needed to enlarge Chart A so I could use it on my magnetic holder and this is what I would like to share with anyone who will need it. I will post others as I get to them if anyone is interested. IF ANYONE WANTS ANYTHING ENLARGED, LET ME KNOW AS I HAVE THE SOFTWARE.


Thank you so much for sharing,that is just what I needed.Had to rip out all my sweater as it was much too large. I have now dropped down 1 sz, in needles and 2 szs. in pattern and so far looks like it is going to be good.My gauge was good and just decide to wing it because it just wasn't working,, Again thanks so much, this is going to make life so much easier.


----------



## peachy51

beaz said:


> Need help on Chart A, row 1, am at the M1. If I knit the M1 stitch, it is a purl stitch, then do I put it back on the needle or what. Utube doesn't do it that way that I can see.


On Chart A, Row 1 that isn't an M1 ... it's an ML ... and later on you will see an MR increase.

Here is a video:


----------



## peachy51

RobbiD said:


> Thanks Peachy. Did you find a difference in your gauge when you switched to an acrylic yarn? And please let me know how your steaming works, as I have never blocked acrylic (or anything else, for that matter). Thanks again for the measurement. Will probably be asking for more, as I get further along  .


Yes, I had to go down a needle size because the acrylic is thicker than the original yarn. Now that I'm making the upper fronts and back I see that I am measuring 22 on the height.

This is an example of where you sometimes just have to use your judgment. Because with 22 on the height, I should come up short, but where the upper front has you increasing until you have 25 stitches on the needle and says your lower diagonal edge should measure (in my case) 9-1/2", mine is measuring about 10" ... But I held it next to the body edge it has to be seamed to and it is going to work just fine.

Go figure


----------



## Carolinesol

CaROLE-JAYNE said:


> that is GORGEOUS!!! Well done you - you look as proud as punch. How spectacular is that!!!!!! Well done you!
> cj


Thank you. I have enjoyed making it. 
Caroline


----------



## beaz

peachy51 said:


> On Chart A, Row 1 that isn't an M1 ... it's an ML ... and later on you will see an MR increase.
> 
> Here is a video:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am on a purl stitch, so I would knit that


----------



## peachy51

beaz said:


> I am on a purl stitch, so I would knit that


The only increase on Row 1 is a knit stitch ... the second from the last stitch. You don't have a purl increase until Row 4 and that is the twisted purl M1 which Erica gives directions for in the chart legend.


----------



## questmiller

Jill2 said:


> http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-162285-1.html


Thanks, Jill


----------



## Jill2

questmiller said:


> Thanks, Jill


My pleasure....thank you for starting the new thread!


----------



## beaz

peachy51 said:


> The only increase on Row 1 is a knit stitch ... the second from the last stitch. You don't have a purl increase until Row 4 and that is the twisted purl M1 which Erica gives directions for in the chart legend.


But that ML stitch happens to be a purl stitch for me??


----------



## beaz

beaz said:


> But that ML stitch happens to be a purl stitch for me??


. OOPS, I did not do the 4 repeats of red box and then finish row. I counted it out and should be okay but this is my rows 1-6 and it doesn't look right to me - too many steps. Is this right or should I start over?


----------



## peachy51

beaz said:


> But that ML stitch happens to be a purl stitch for me??


No, it's a knit stitch. All the stitches to the left of the dotted boxes are knit stitches on odd numbered rows. All of the ML's in that stockinette section are done on the odd numbered rows and are done in knit stitches.


----------



## Needleme

Carolinesol said:


> Well. Here is mine finished... I still need to press it, but a bit worried about it. Really enjoyed making this. Thanks to everyone for all of there help.


Whoo hoo! Beautiful!! Congrats!


----------



## beaz

Here is Chart D for those who want it ENLARGED


----------



## flyssie

beaz said:


> Here is Chart D for those who want it ENLARGED


Thanks so much Beaz - so very helpful
Flyssie


----------



## beaz

Here is the CHEAT SHEET for those who wanted it ENLARGED


----------



## Kissnntell

not getting it w/any application


----------



## beaz

Kissnntell said:


> not getting it w/any application


was a WORD doc, changed it to PDF


----------



## Kissnntell

TA-DA!! got it now
thx hon!!


----------



## ElegantDetails

Carolinesol said:


> Well. Here is mine finished... I still need to press it, but a bit worried about it. Really enjoyed making this. Thanks to everyone for all of there help.


Wow... that's amazing! What a beautiful job you did. I have especially loved putting faces to the avatars.....just allows us to feel more in touch.


----------



## Marienkaeferoma

peachy51 said:


> Yes, you are right. Try a #8 and see what you get.


# 8 19stitches and 25 rows
#9 18 stitches and 23 rows

I went ahead and started with #9. I was planning on making size 36. If it looks like it is going to be too big, would it work to go down to size 34?


----------



## peachy51

Marienkaeferoma said:


> # 8 19stitches and 25 rows
> #9 18 stitches and 23 rows
> 
> I went ahead and started with #9. I was planning on making size 36. If it looks like it is going to be too big, would it work to go down to size 34?


Too many stitches per inch will make the item smaller rather than larger. (e.g. say the gauge calls for 20 stitches for 4 inches in width and you are getting 22 ... you cast on 60 stitches for your piece and knit in stockinette ... then your piece should be 12 inches wide at the called for gauge ... but with the 22 you would only have 10.9 inches). Remember when you are figuring gauge, if you have more stitches than called for then you have taken stitches away from the next 4 inches, and if you have too few stitches than called for, then the extra are spilling over to give you more fabric. (Hope this hasn't confused you too much :mrgreen: )

On this sweater, I was getting 18 and 22 and I made a 36 which is the size I wear. It looks like so far it's going to fit fine.


----------



## Carolinesol

Needleme said:


> Whoo hoo! Beautiful!! Congrats!


Thank you... How you doing ?


----------



## Carolinesol

ElegantDetails said:


> Wow... that's amazing! What a beautiful job you did. I have especially loved putting faces to the avatars.....just allows us to feel more in touch.


Thank you for your nice comments.
If I had thought before.... I would have put some make up on and straightened my hair..... It was about 10.30pm here and could not wait to post picture...
Thanks again 
Caroline


----------



## RobbiD

beaz said:


> . OOPS, I did not do the 4 repeats of red box and then finish row. I counted it out and should be okay but this is my rows 1-6 and it doesn't look right to me - too many steps. Is this right or should I start over?


If you've only done the set up rows, frog if you want to, but the "steps" will start to blend in. My first attempt, my "steps" were noticeable, too, but blended in some as I went along. My second attempt, I used the reverse loop CO for the cast on at the end of the rows, and the steps were not noticeable. They just kind of curved as I continued on. For what it's worth. LOVE your color, BTW.


----------



## catlover1960

RobbiD said:


> If you've only done the set up rows, frog if you want to, but the "steps" will start to blend in. My first attempt, my "steps" were noticeable, too, but blended in some as I went along. My second attempt, I used the reverse loop CO for the cast on at the end of the rows, and the steps were not noticeable. They just kind of curved as I continued on. For what it's worth. LOVE your color, BTW.


Thanks for this info RobbiD. I started this last night. Still waiting for my yarn to arrive, but showed the pattern to my 16yr. niece and she loved it. We found yarn for her sweater so I will learn on hers and hopefully know what I'm doing when I knit mine. I used a cable cast on to add the stitches at the end of the row and was not quite happy with it. I think I will frog and try the backward loop CO and see if I like it better.


----------



## Needleme

Carolinesol said:


> Thank you... How you doing ?


Well, I am happy to say I just finished Chart A yesterday! Had to frog a bit because I missed one set in increases and didn't notice it until four rows later, but not a huge setback. Think I will put in a lifeline now as I start Chart B.
This is my first time with a chart, and I am really getting it!


----------



## RobbiD

Needleme said:


> Well, I am happy to say I just finished Chart A yesterday! Had to frog a bit because I missed one set in increases and didn't notice it until four rows later, but not a huge setback. Think I will put in a lifeline now as I start Chart B.
> This is my first time with a chart, and I am really getting it!


I put in a life line as I started chart B, also. I added one when I had completed the shapings. My only word of caution, Needleme, is to pay close attention when you do bust shaping C. I did the cable cross on the wrong group of stitches  and didn't realize it until I started bust shaping D. Frogging the short rows is a pain. I had considered life lines at the end of each shaping but thought they would be more confusing than helpful. I figured a way that might have worked, AFTER the fact. Oh, well. There are more short rows to come, so will try "short" lifelines on them.


----------



## Carolinesol

Needleme said:


> Well, I am happy to say I just finished Chart A yesterday! Had to frog a bit because I missed one set in increases and didn't notice it until four rows later, but not a huge setback. Think I will put in a lifeline now as I start Chart B.
> This is my first time with a chart, and I am really getting it!


That's good. I think the life line seems a good idea I had not heard of them until a couple of weeks ago !
It is/was my first time with a chart also and was pleasantly surprised. Might even make another one for my mum.


----------



## maryannn

I have the original sweater that started some of these knitting paradise topics. It is the Isabella Bird sweater in a size med. it is too large for me as I am a size 10-12, The cables do not go across the back and is 100% cotton.
I might post it here on KP in the classified if I get any interest.
Feel free to pm me if you are interested,
Mary Ann


----------



## lulu11

finished Chart B


----------



## Jill2

lulu11 said:


> finished Chart B


Very nice! Looks beautiful!!


----------



## maryannn

lulu11 said:


> finished Chart B


Beautiful knitting, Lulu.


----------



## maryannn

Does anyone know if the download at www.cogknits.com. is the latest version with the corrections in it?


----------



## lulu11

thanks


----------



## Carolinesol

lulu11 said:


> finished Chart B


Well done.


----------



## Marienkaeferoma

peachy51 said:


> Too many stitches per inch will make the item smaller rather than larger. (e.g. say the gauge calls for 20 stitches for 4 inches in width and you are getting 22 ... you cast on 60 stitches for your piece and knit in stockinette ... then your piece should be 12 inches wide at the called for gauge ... but with the 22 you would only have 10.9 inches). Remember when you are figuring gauge, if you have more stitches than called for then you have taken stitches away from the next 4 inches, and if you have too few stitches than called for, then the extra are spilling over to give you more fabric. (Hope this hasn't confused you too much :mrgreen: )
> 
> On this sweater, I was getting 18 and 22 and I made a 36 which is the size I wear. It looks like so far it's going to fit fine.


Thanks so much for the quick response. You did an excellent job explaining. I'm going to stay with the 36.


----------



## murf

Thanks Beaz for the enlarged Charts really helpful. And I need all the help i can get. Just starting chart B and not sure i understand it, yet.


----------



## Flybreit

RobbiD said:


> Great article beaz. I am using Boye neddlemaster inter-changeables, so the manufacturer has been the same. I just don't get it. Ah, well, a conundrum to unravel at a later time. Busy unraveling my knitting, at present! Gotta pay closer attention to those darn cable crosses in the shaping section


RobbiD - I had a terrible time keeping up with the cable crossings. Erica's chart is awesome, but my brain had trouble processing all the info. So....I copied and pasted the chart sections into the instructions.

Here is a copy if you'd like to give it a try:


----------



## Carole-Jayne

maryannn said:


> Does anyone know if the download at www.cogknits.com. is the latest version with the corrections in it?


Yes, I'd like to know also --- want to save the final one clearly marked <g>
cj


----------



## murf

Thanks Flybreit for the copy really helped.


----------



## lulu11

thanks


----------



## CU Volunteer

I too thought this topic had gone off into outer space. I am anxiousto knit this sweater. I am not an experienced knitter. so I am a little hesitent to start when I will be so far behind the rest of you folks.


----------



## AverilC

Thank you so much Flybreit, I was really having trouble getting my head round the short row section, this will be soooooo helpful.


----------



## AverilC

CU Volunteer said:


> I too thought this topic had gone off into outer space. I am anxiousto knit this sweater. I am not an experienced knitter. so I am a little hesitent to start when I will be so far behind the rest of you folks.


Go for it CU Volunteer, this is the most amazing cardigan and it is so easy, just follow the pattern and you will see it all makes sense.


----------



## Carolinesol

CU Volunteer said:


> I too thought this topic had gone off into outer space. I am anxiousto knit this sweater. I am not an experienced knitter. so I am a little hesitent to start when I will be so far behind the rest of you folks.


Go for it ! It's a good pattern. I had never done charts before but it was fine. Lots of kind people on here to help you.

Oops just said the same as lady above.........


----------



## gdhavens

Don't be afraid to start. You will not be far behind, as there are several that are waiting for yarn or finishing projects before they start. Just jump in! The rest of us will help you along.


----------



## beaz

I am stuck on Chart A, Row 1: it shows the ML stitch as the second to last stitch on needle but my ML stitch will end up as the last stitch. I have the correct amount of stitches on needle and can't figure this out. help ..


----------



## ElegantDetails

I don't blame you for being excited. I never thought twice about your lack of makeup! I thought you and your sweater were beautiful!


Carolinesol said:


> Thank you for your nice comments.
> If I had thought before.... I would have put some make up on and straightened my hair..... It was about 10.30pm here and could not wait to post picture...
> Thanks again
> Caroline


----------



## Carolinesol

ElegantDetails said:


> I don't blame you for being excited. I never thought twice about your lack of makeup! I thought you and your sweater were beautiful!


Ahh.... Thank you.


----------



## RobbiD

Flybreit said:


> RobbiD - I had a terrible time keeping up with the cable crossings. Erica's chart is awesome, but my brain had trouble processing all the info. So....I copied and pasted the chart sections into the instructions.
> 
> Here is a copy if you'd like to give it a try:


Awesome Flybreit, thank you very much. Now I just have to convince myself to stop when I get tired :lol:


----------



## RobbiD

CU Volunteer said:


> I too thought this topic had gone off into outer space. I am anxiousto knit this sweater. I am not an experienced knitter. so I am a little hesitent to start when I will be so far behind the rest of you folks.


You won't be far behind, some of us are just starting, still waiting for yarn, or starting over. Join us, it's great fun having a bunch of us working in the same thing. Everyone is extremely encouraging and helpful, too.


----------



## RobbiD

beaz said:


> I am stuck on Chart A, Row 1: it shows the ML stitch as the second to last stitch on needle but my ML stitch will end up as the last stitch. I have the correct amount of stitches on needle and can't figure this out. help ..


beaz, if your stitch count is correct, you should have 2 sts to the left of the marker as you knit row 1. You knit the second to the last stitch ( the 1st st to the left of the marker), lift the left leg from THAT stitch, but 2 rows below, with your left needle, and knit it (that's your lifted increase stitch), then knit your last stitch. you should then have 3 sts to the left of the marker. I hope that made sense :?


----------



## RobbiD

Patchy 51, could I please trouble you for the measurement along the top of the body between the armhole decreases? I have done 3 repeats of chart B after the shapings but am concerned whether or not to do a 4th (per the pattern for both 36 and 38). I guess I'm really freaking about the size after having to frog the whole body. Thanks.


----------



## beaz

RobbiD said:


> beaz, if your stitch count is correct, you should have 2 sts to the left of the marker as you knit row 1. You knit the second to the last stitch ( the 1st st to the left of the marker), lift the left leg from THAT stitch, but 2 rows below, with your left needle, and knit it (that's your lifted increase stitch), then knit your last stitch. you should then have 3 sts to the left of the marker. I hope that made sense :?


This is the 2nd time I am doing this because I don't have enough stitches: I have 44 stitches prior to Chart A, I have matched all the stitches until I get to the ML where I only have 1 stitch. If you count the first row on the chart, there are 43 stitches not including the extra ML.


----------



## murf

Think i may have done Chart A backward. Is Row1(Rs)read right to left and row2(ws)left to right or is it row 1 left to right and row 2 right to left?


----------



## Carolinesol

Hi ladies. I know I have finished my cardi But... My edge seems to be curling under even after I have ironed it lightly.
Any ideas how I can stop it curling under, I thought the I-cord would have helped!


----------



## CarolZ

Carolinesol said:


> Well. Here is mine finished... I still need to press it, but a bit worried about it. Really enjoyed making this. Thanks to everyone for all of there help.


Hi Carolinesol,

Love your sweater and the buttons you chose. Hope mine looks as great as yours. I have a request though. Would you be able to have a picture of the back of the sweater taken while you're wearing it? I'd like to see how it looks on someone since it has the cables going across the backside. Thank you so much for sharing your photo!


----------



## Carolinesol

murf said:


> Think i may have done Chart A backward. Is Row1(Rs)read right to left and row2(ws)left to right or is it row 1 left to right and row 2 right to left?


I did.... Row 1... Right to left
Row 2... Left to right.


----------



## mom2grif

Beaz, At the point you start the chart, you should have 44 stitches on your needles. Actually 3 knit stitches at each end on the right side. So when you do your ML, after the last 2 purl stitches, you should knit 2 then do your ML and then knit 1. There are 44 stitches represented on row one of the chart. 8 stitches inside the red x 4 is 32 plus 3 to the right = 35 + 9 = 44 plus the ML should give you 45 stitches when you are done with row 1. 

Susan


----------



## Carolinesol

CarolZ said:


> Hi Carolinesol,
> 
> Love your sweater and the buttons you chose. Hope mine looks as great as yours. I have a request though. Would you be able to have a picture of the back of the sweater taken while you're wearing it? I'd like to see how it looks on someone since it has the cables going across the backside. Thank you so much for sharing your photo!


Hi CarolZ
Here is picture of my big backside, it looks like I did not insert my sleeves very well !!!!
Maybe it's the way I am standing.......


----------



## peachy51

maryannn said:


> Does anyone know if the download at www.cogknits.com. is the latest version with the corrections in it?


Maryann ... the pattern on Erica's website has not been updated and does contain one error at the top of Page 6, second line.

After the decreases that are done every 4th row, the pattern states:

"Work 3(4,5,6,6,7,8) rows even." Mark a line through that and don't work the rows even. Just go straight to the bind off.


----------



## peachy51

RobbiD said:


> Patchy 51, could I please trouble you for the measurement along the top of the body between the armhole decreases? I have done 3 repeats of chart B after the shapings but am concerned whether or not to do a 4th (per the pattern for both 36 and 38). I guess I'm really freaking about the size after having to frog the whole body. Thanks.


Robbie, mine is pinned to the blocking board right now and measuring the second cable from the top, from right front edge to left front edge, it measures 39-1/2". And it's really not stretched out because mine is acrylic and I didn't want to stretch it too much. I just laid it out flat and pinned it and spritzed it.


----------



## maryannn

peachy51 said:


> Maryann ... the pattern on Erica's website has not been updated and does contain one error at the top of Page 6, second line.
> 
> After the decrease that is done every 4th row, the pattern states:
> 
> "Work 3(4,5,6,6,7,8) rows even." Mark and line through that and don't work the rows even. Just go straight to the bind off.


Thank you so much. 
Mary Ann


----------



## CarolZ

Carolinesol said:


> Hi CarolZ
> Here is picture of my big backside, it looks like I did not insert my sleeves very well !!!!
> Maybe it's the way I am standing.......


Oh thank you so much, it looks great, and you don't have a "big backside" either!!! :thumbup:


----------



## CU Volunteer

Just a quick ?/ Are all folks using the Cascade 220 yarn? What are you using?


----------



## Carolinesol

CarolZ said:


> Oh thank you so much, it looks great, and you don't have a "big backside" either!!! :thumbup:


Thanks...


----------



## beaz

mom2grif said:


> Beaz, At the point you start the chart, you should have 44 stitches on your needles. Actually 3 knit stitches at each end on the right side. So when you do your ML, after the last 2 purl stitches, you should knit 2 then do your ML and then knit 1. There are 44 stitches represented on row one of the chart. 8 stitches inside the red x 4 is 32 plus 3 to the right = 35 + 9 = 44 plus the ML should give you 45 stitches when you are done with row 1.
> 
> Susan


On Row 2, do I do the red box 4 times and then work the stitches to the left. I started with the left and did a few of the red box but there is no way I can do four repeats. This is sure confusing


----------



## Jessica-Jean

maryannn said:


> I have the original sweater that started some of these knitting paradise topics. It is the Isabella Bird sweater in a size med. it is too large for me as I am a size 10-12, The cables do not go across the back and is 100% cotton.
> I might post it here on KP in the classified if I get any interest.
> Feel free to pm me if you are interested,
> Mary Ann


Thank you very, _very_ much for the rear view of the actual item that started the whole ball rolling! I've added it to my collection of notes.


----------



## catlover1960

mom2grif said:


> Beaz, At the point you start the chart, you should have 44 stitches on your needles. Actually 3 knit stitches at each end on the right side. So when you do your ML, after the last 2 purl stitches, you should knit 2 then do your ML and then knit 1. There are 44 stitches represented on row one of the chart. 8 stitches inside the red x 4 is 32 plus 3 to the right = 35 + 9 = 44 plus the ML should give you 45 stitches when you are done with row 1.
> 
> Susan


Thank you for this explanation. I was just starting Chart A and was very confused. After reading your comments several times it finally clicked.


----------



## Carolinesol

beaz said:


> On Row 2, do I do the red box 4 times and then work the stitches to the left. I started with the left and did a few of the red box but there is no way I can do four repeats. This is sure confusing


Sorry you are finding it confusing... 
Row 2 work left to right..purl 4, knit 2 , purl 2, knit 2 , then into red box. That's how I read it. 
Hope you get on ok, if I was a few thousand miles nearer I would come and help !


----------



## peachy51

CU Volunteer said:


> Just a quick ?/ Are all folks using the Cascade 220 yarn? What are you using?


I wanted mine to be a cotton blend so I started out with a 75% cotton/25% acrylic blend, but that yarn just didn't want to be this sweater.

I dug through my stash to see what I had enough of in a color that would be suitable and the only thing I came up with was Bernat Waverly 100% acrylic. So I just decided to make it out of that and if I really liked it, I would make another out of some nice wool (I was thinking the Cascade Venezia).

So far the Bernat Waverly is making a pretty sweater ... the key will be to see if it fits! I'm seaming pieces together today. :mrgreen:


----------



## ElegantDetails

Here I go again...over thinking. I totally thought I understood this next part til i actually got there and realized I don't! I get the short row part...what I don't get exactly is when I do the right side decreases?? If I'm reading this correctly, I should not be at the other side of the work til I actually get done with the short rows????? I guess I'm just unsure of the process.
Once I get it...I'm good to go til the next bump in the road.


peachy51 said:


> Ok, I'm stuck with a question now and want to make sure I understand what's coming next.
> 
> After each bust short row section A, B, C & D am I to work the Right Hip Shaping paragraph after each of those bust sections?


----------



## Caesarteaser

CU Volunteer said:


> Just a quick ?/ Are all folks using the Cascade 220 yarn? What are you using?


I'm using Berrocco Vintage and am only 1/2 way through chart A. Fun pattern. It's so different from anything I've ever done.


----------



## peachy51

ElegantDetails said:


> Here I go again...over thinking. I totally thought I understood this next part til i actually got there and realized I don't! I get the short row part...what I don't get exactly is when I do the right side decreases?? If I'm reading this correctly, I should not be at the other side of the work til I actually get done with the short rows????? I guess I'm just unsure of the process.
> Once I get it...I'm good to go til the next bump in the road.


You are going to go back and forth. You will do Bust Shaping A, followed by a Hip shaping, followed by Bust Shaping B, followed by a Hip shaping ... etc ... back and forth.

If you will look at Page 7, the Cable Crossing Cheat Sheet, you will see exactly the way you will be working.

The section at the far left at the bottom is the first hip shaping you do, then the line goes all the way over to the right for the bust shaping ... every place you see a dot is where the cable will cross.


----------



## ElegantDetails

peachy51 said:


> You are going to go back and forth. You will do Bust Shaping A, followed by a Hip shaping, followed by Bust Shaping B, followed by a Hip shaping ... etc ... back and forth.
> 
> If you will look at Page 7, the Cable Crossing Cheat Sheet, you will see exactly the way you will be working.
> 
> The section at the far left at the bottom is the first hip shaping you do, then the line goes all the way over to the right for the bust shaping ... every place you see a dot is where the cable will cross.


Ok.....but what about the "every right side row decrease.".....the one that that we do until there are only 4 sts left

e


----------



## Marienkaeferoma

CU Volunteer said:


> Just a quick ?/ Are all folks using the Cascade 220 yarn? What are you using?


Plymouth Encore. 75% acrylic 25% wool color 0456(rust colored)


----------



## peachy51

ElegantDetails said:


> Ok.....but what about the "every right side row decrease.".....the one that that we do until there are only 4 sts left
> 
> e


You will be doing those when you are doing the hip shaping.

Looking at the Cable Crossing Cheat Sheet, you will do the rows for the bust shaping back and forth, back and forth until you get to the line that goes all the way back over to the hip shaping. Then you will go back and forth, back and forth for the hip shaping, being sure to do the decreases on the correct rows, until you get to the long line that takes you back over to the bust shaping.


----------



## murf

Carolinsol thanks that helps but still having trouble understanding how to do the shorts rows and the decreases


----------



## ElegantDetails

I am absolutely having a brain freeze. You say I need to be "sure to do the decreases on the correct rows," that's the part I'm not sure about.
For example...on the cheat sheet....from the bottom left I think row 2 (purl row) is the 44 sts after the marker.....but I turn around and go back. The next right side row is only 34 sts????? Right???? So how or where do I do the k2tog, k3? Sorry to be so thick headed on this, I sure appreciate your help.


peachy51 said:


> You will be doing those when you are doing the hip shaping.
> 
> Looking at the Cable Crossing Cheat Sheet, you will do the rows for the bust shaping back and forth, back and forth until you get to the line that goes all the way back over to the hip shaping. Then you will go back and forth, back and forth for the hip shaping, being sure to do the decreases on the correct rows, until you get to the long line that takes you back over to the bust shaping.


----------



## gdhavens

ElegantDetails said:


> I am absolutely having a brain freeze. You say I need to be "sure to do the decreases on the correct rows," that's the part I'm not sure about.
> For example...on the cheat sheet....from the bottom left I think row 2 (purl row) is the 44 sts after the marker.....but I turn around and go back. The next right side row is only 34 sts????? Right???? So how or where do I do the k2tog, k3? Sorry to be so thick headed on this, I sure appreciate your help.


Your hip short rows start on the wrong side, and the short row stitch count starts after the marker is slipped. The decreases are done on the right side rows, which are return rows, and the decreases are done after you have slipped the marker.

I hope this helps.

Darla


----------



## joani13

Flybreit said:


> RobbiD - I had a terrible time keeping up with the cable crossings. Erica's chart is awesome, but my brain had trouble processing all the info. So....I copied and pasted the chart sections into the instructions.
> 
> Here is a copy if you'd like to give it a try:


Thanks! I think this will help me. I haven't started yet - have other projects to finish and am learning a lot from everyone's postings


----------



## RobbiD

beaz said:


> This is the 2nd time I am doing this because I don't have enough stitches: I have 44 stitches prior to Chart A, I have matched all the stitches until I get to the ML where I only have 1 stitch. If you count the first row on the chart, there are 43 stitches not including the extra ML.


Beaz you should have 3 k stitches, p2,k2,p2,k2(the section to be done 4x's. 8*4 is 32 sts), p2,k2,p2,k2 (8st), marker, 1 knit st. 3+32+8+1=44. So you would knit the last stitch, pick up left leg of last stst 2rows below and knit it, giving you 2 stitches to the left of the marker. Turn and work row 2. Sorry for the misinformation in my last answer to you. I added 6 stitches to my stockinette border, so my 1st ML never fell on the last stitch. Sorry


----------



## RobbiD

CU Volunteer said:


> Just a quick ?/ Are all folks using the Cascade 220 yarn? What are you using?


I'm using Bernat Satin. An acrylic yarn. I had some gauge problems, but think it was me, not the yarn


----------



## ElegantDetails

I may get there yet...just to be clear......the right hip shaping AND the decreases are actually done on the same 1/2 of the sweater!?!?!??? I really think I'm probably making it way harder than it really is. Thanx!

quote=gdhavens]Your hip short rows start on the wrong side, and the short row stitch count starts after the marker is slipped. The decreases are done on the right side rows, which are return rows, and the decreases are done after you have slipped the marker.

I hope this helps.

Darla[/quote]


----------



## RobbiD

beaz said:


> On Row 2, do I do the red box 4 times and then work the stitches to the left. I started with the left and did a few of the red box but there is no way I can do four repeats. This is sure confusing


Hi beaz. On row 2 you do the 8 stitches in the red box 4 times, after you do the stitches to the left. Even rows are worked left to right. You will actually have 5 cables with 4 stockinette pieces in between and two borders of stockinette. Remember to ignore the gray boxes.


----------



## RobbiD

ElegantDetails said:


> Ok.....but what about the "every right side row decrease.".....the one that that we do until there are only 4 sts left
> 
> e


Hi ElegantDetails. When you begin the hip shapings on chart B for the right side, as you do the hip short rows, you will do your decrease on every right side row. So when you do the first short row of 44 sts, when you turn and work back to the end of the row, you will end the row doing a k2tog, k3 over the last 5 sts. When do the 34 sts short row, you will do the same thing on that return row. The decreases will only be on RS rows that go all the way to the end. I think it comes to a total of 8 decreases.


----------



## RobbiD

ElegantDetails said:


> I may get there yet...just to be clear......the right hip shaping AND the decreases are actually done on the same 1/2 of the sweater!?!?!??? I really think I'm probably making it way harder than it really is. Thanx!
> 
> quote=gdhavens]Your hip short rows start on the wrong side, and the short row stitch count starts after the marker is slipped. The decreases are done on the right side rows, which are return rows, and the decreases are done after you have slipped the marker.
> 
> I hope this helps.
> 
> Darla


[/quote]

ElegantDetails, yes the hip shaping and the decreases are done on the same "side" of the sweater. You are actually shaping the bottom stockinette portion with these decreases. When you do the left hip shaping these decreased stitches will be added back on with matching increases, also on the same side as the hip shaping. It took me until I started thinking of the left side (with the rs facing you) is actually the bottom of the sweater, not the left side of the sweater, that I finally had my :idea: moment! It will all start to make sense, I promise.


----------



## RobbiD

peachy51 said:


> Robbie, mine is pinned to the blocking board right now and measuring the second cable from the top, from right front edge to left front edge, it measures 39-1/2". And it's really not stretched out because mine is acrylic and I didn't want to stretch it too much. I just laid it out flat and pinned it and spritzed it.


Peachy, you're a gem. I got 2 answers for the price of one question. I was wondering about blocking, too, having never done it.

So, assuming that the first cable that reverses direction is the exact center of the back, my measurement from the center of that reverse cable (midway between the 2 crossings) to the cast on edge, running the length of the second cable from the top is 19 1/2". So I should be right on track with 39"?

Please let me know how the pinning and spritzing works for keeping the stockinette from curling. I added 6 sts to my bottom border for extra length, and I'm not so sure the i-cord will hold it down. Especially after reading Carolinesol's post about hers still curling.


----------



## RobbiD

Carolinesol said:


> Hi ladies. I know I have finished my cardi But... My edge seems to be curling under even after I have ironed it lightly.
> Any ideas how I can stop it curling under, I thought the I-cord would have helped!


Carolinesol, gosh darn it, after all the help you have given me, I sure wish I had a solution for you. I'm concerned about the curling too, as I used acrylic yarn and added to the length. Please let me know if you find a solution.


----------



## ElegantDetails

RobbiD said:


> Hi ElegantDetails. When you begin the hip shapings on chart B for the right side, as you do the hip short rows, you will do your decrease on every right side row. So when you do the first short row of 44 sts, when you turn and work back to the end of the row, you will end the row doing a k2tog, k3 over the last 5 sts. When do the 34 sts short row, you will do the same thing on that return row. The decreases will only be on RS rows that go all the way to the end. I think it comes to a total of 8 decreases.


----------



## ElegantDetails

THANK YOU!!!!! I was having a hard time explaining myself. You have told me exactly what I wanted to know.I was having trouble grasping that part. Hopefully I can manage to proceed with some level of success. Thanks to all of you that tried to help me see what i was supposed to do. You guys are so great for us less experienced!!! 


RobbiD said:


> Hi ElegantDetails. When you begin the hip shapings on chart B for the right side, as you do the hip short rows, you will do your decrease on every right side row. So when you do the first short row of 44 sts, when you turn and work back to the end of the row, you will end the row doing a k2tog, k3 over the last 5 sts. When do the 34 sts short row, you will do the same thing on that return row. The decreases will only be on RS rows that go all the way to the end. I think it comes to a total of 8 decreases.


----------



## RobbiD

ElegantDetails said:


> THANK YOU!!!!! I was having a hard time explaining myself. You have told me exactly what I wanted to know.I was having trouble grasping that part. Hopefully I can manage to proceed with some level of success. Thanks to all of you that tried to help me see what i was supposed to do. You guys are so great for us less experienced!!!


I think that this has been a learning experience for most of us. Especially me. Been doing things I never would have tried otherwise, like short rows and fitted waist. After experiencing the frustration of frogging the whole body and starting over, myself, I'm glad I could help. That has been the greatest part of this whole KAL. _Everyone_ has been so understanding and helpful.


----------



## peachy51

RobbiD said:


> Peachy, you're a gem. I got 2 answers for the price of one question. I was wondering about blocking, too, having never done it.
> 
> So, assuming that the first cable that reverses direction is the exact center of the back, my measurement from the center of that reverse cable (midway between the 2 crossings) to the cast on edge, running the length of the second cable from the top is 19 1/2". So I should be right on track with 39"?
> 
> Please let me know how the pinning and spritzing works for keeping the stockinette from curling. I added 6 sts to my bottom border for extra length, and I'm not so sure the i-cord will hold it down. Especially after reading Carolinesol's post about hers still curling.


The pinning and spritzing helped a lot with the curling, but did not take it all away completely. It was much easier to seam than I thought it would be tho.

Getting ready to start my i-cord so I don't have an answer on that curl question yet. Haven't decided if I want to do a 4 stitch i-cord or larger. Going to experiment.

Then all I will have left is the sleeves which I want to pick up stitches and knit in the around to the bottom.

I did try it on after all the seaming and it's going to fit perfectly! :thumbup:


----------



## wanorniron

I will be picking up my yarn tomorrow and can't wait to get started. I have been following all the posts and hope to use everyone's knowledge/experience to complete my own project successfully.


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## ElegantDetails

Thanks to all again....I'm almost 1/2 way thru the first part of the cheat sheet. I agree......getting to know each other and help each other has been so rewarding. I'm excited to see all the sweaters.



RobbiD said:


> I think that this has been a learning experience for most of us. Especially me. Been doing things I never would have tried otherwise, like short rows and fitted waist. After experiencing the frustration of frogging the whole body and starting over, myself, I'm glad I could help. That has been the greatest part of this whole KAL. _Everyone_ has been so understanding and helpful.


 :thumbup:


----------



## Needleme

RobbiD said:


> I put in a life line as I started chart B, also. I added one when I had completed the shapings. My only word of caution, Needleme, is to pay close attention when you do bust shaping C. I did the cable cross on the wrong group of stitches  and didn't realize it until I started bust shaping D. Frogging the short rows is a pain. I had considered life lines at the end of each shaping but thought they would be more confusing than helpful. I figured a way that might have worked, AFTER the fact. Oh, well. There are more short rows to come, so will try "short" lifelines on them.


Thanks, RobbiD-- I will take your advice to heart! I am nervous about the short rows-- think I will watch some YouTube videos to prepare me!!


----------



## Needleme

Carolinesol said:


> Hi CarolZ
> Here is picture of my big backside, it looks like I did not insert my sleeves very well !!!!
> Maybe it's the way I am standing.......


So beautiful!! Yay for you!


----------



## peachy51

Needleme said:


> Thanks, RobbiD-- I will take your advice to heart! I am nervous about the short rows-- think I will watch some YouTube videos to prepare me!!


Craftsy has a great free class on short rows.

http://www.craftsy.com/class/short-rows/96

I used the Japenese method. You do have to fiddle a little with the pins, but you don't stand a chance of picking it up and they are cleaner and lay flatter than any other method I have used.


----------



## Needleme

peachy51 said:


> Craftsy has a great free class on short rows.
> 
> http://www.craftsy.com/class/short-rows/96
> 
> I used the Japenese method. You do have to fiddle a little with the pins, but you don't stand a chance of picking it up and they are cleaner and lay flatter than any other method I have used.


Thank you, my friend! I am in a little (!) over my comfort level with this pattern, but that's ok. I will check this link out! Thanks so much!


----------



## peachy51

Needleme said:


> Thank you, my friend! I am in a little (!) over my comfort level with this pattern, but that's ok. I will check this link out! Thanks so much!


LOL ... well I see I left words out of my post ... it should have said "you don't stand a chance of missing the pickup" ... sometimes my fingers just do their own thing independent of my brain when I'm typing. :mrgreen:


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## Carolinesol

Needleme said:


> So beautiful!! Yay for you!


Thank you....


----------



## Needleme

peachy51 said:


> LOL ... well I see I left words out of my post ... it should have said "you don't stand a chance of missing the pickup" ... sometimes my fingers just do their own thing independent of my brain when I'm typing. :mrgreen:


LOL-- I didn't even read it that way until you wrote this!! Too funny-- thanks for the chuckle!


----------



## Needleme

RobbiD said:


> I'm using Bernat Satin. An acrylic yarn. I had some gauge problems, but think it was me, not the yarn


I am using this yarn too!


----------



## peachy51

Carolinesol said:


> Hi ladies. I know I have finished my cardi But... My edge seems to be curling under even after I have ironed it lightly.
> Any ideas how I can stop it curling under, I thought the I-cord would have helped!


Yep ... I'm putting on my i-cord right now and it's going to curl under too 

I'll have to see how it does after I finish and block it again.


----------



## Carolinesol

peachy51 said:


> Craftsy has a great free class on short rows.
> 
> http://www.craftsy.com/class/short-rows/96
> 
> I used the Japenese method. You do have to fiddle a little with the pins, but you don't stand a chance of picking it up and they are cleaner and lay flatter than any other method I have used.


Thanks for this peachy51. I found it very interesting and if I make another cardi I will try the Japanese method it looks a lot neater than mine !


----------



## Carolinesol

peachy51 said:


> Yep ... I'm putting on my i-cord right now and it's going to curl under too
> 
> I'll have to see how it does after I finish and block it again.


I have spent hours this morning try to find an answer on the net ! Not really sure what to try. I did think of trying the edge that was on the sleeve ?


----------



## beaz

What is the best cast on method for both the body and end of row. I was using long tail on body and holding yarn same way but with one strand for end of row (don't know what that would be called) but I don't like the way my end of rows looks?


----------



## gdhavens

Everyone that is concerned with the curl on the bottom, I think that may be part of the design. The Icord goes from the bottom right front where the decreases begin, up the right side, around the neck, down the left side and across to the start of the increased stitches on the left side. It does not go all the way around the bottom.

I think the bottom edge is supposed to curl up to resemble the Icord on the front, and the Icord gives that same curled edge and "encases" the edge of the cast on/bind off stitches. At least this is how I did mine and it looks "finished." The bottom of the back only curls up to the P2 "ditch".

If I am wrong, I sincerely apologize.


----------



## mom2grif

beaz said:


> What is the best cast on method for both the body and end of row. I was using long tail on body and holding yarn same way but with one strand for end of row (don't know what that would be called) but I don't like the way my end of rows looks?


I'm doing knitted cast on (think that's what it's called) at the ends of the rows for adding stitches. I turn the work first (as if to start the next row) and knit into the first stitch. Instead of dropping the stitch from the left needle, I put the stitch from the right needle to the left needle. I put the left needle into the stitch from the front to the back to add a twist that seems to tighten it up nicely. I did long tail for original cast on.

There is the cable cast on (again not sure of name) where you knit between the stitches, but I don't like that one as well, seems looser.


----------



## mom2grif

Can those that are having trouble with their I-cord post pictures? I'd like to see what is happening. Thanks!

Susan


----------



## peachy51

gdhavens said:


> Everyone that is concerned with the curl on the bottom, I think that may be part of the design. The Icord goes from the bottom right front where the decreases begin, up the right side, around the neck, down the left side and across to the start of the increased stitches on the left side. It does not go all the way around the bottom.
> 
> I think the bottom edge is supposed to curl up to resemble the Icord on the front, and the Icord gives that same curled edge and "encases" the edge of the cast on/bind off stitches. At least this is how I did mine and it looks "finished." The bottom of the back only curls up to the P2 "ditch".
> 
> If I am wrong, I sincerely apologize.


I am putting my i-cord all the way around, but even if you just start at the decreases on the right side and go all the way around to the left side decreases, you will have curl on the left and right side stockinette sections. I'm not going to worry about it, I have decided.


----------



## peachy51

Carolinesol said:


> I have spent hours this morning try to find an answer on the net ! Not really sure what to try. I did think of trying the edge that was on the sleeve ?


That would require a total redo ... I'm NOT going there at this point ... LOL

And I don't see how you could possibly do that on the two front sections where they meet ... the part with the cables.

I'm just going to finish mine and wear it and love it!

:mrgreen: :mrgreen:


----------



## RobbiD

peachy51 said:


> The pinning and spritzing helped a lot with the curling, but did not take it all away completely. It was much easier to seam than I thought it would be tho.
> 
> Getting ready to start my i-cord so I don't have an answer on that curl question yet. Haven't decided if I want to do a 4 stitch i-cord or larger. Going to experiment.
> 
> Then all I will have left is the sleeves which I want to pick up stitches and knit in the around to the bottom.
> 
> I did try it on after all the seaming and it's going to fit perfectly! :thumbup:


Peachy, I'm sooo glad it's gonna fit. I am going to try the top down sleeves, too. I have only done them once before, on a christening gown, but I was so pleased with the result I want to do these sleeves that way. I agree that the i-cord will probably be easier if done before the sleeves.


----------



## RobbiD

Needleme said:


> Thanks, RobbiD-- I will take your advice to heart! I am nervous about the short rows-- think I will watch some YouTube videos to prepare me!!


Needleme there is a great utube video on german short rows by Eileen Casey :



It's quite good. After exploring a few other methods, I went with this on. I looks quite good, and is very easy to do. I never did short rows before, and this seemed the easiest way to me  . Hope this helps.


----------



## RobbiD

peachy51 said:


> LOL ... well I see I left words out of my post ... it should have said "you don't stand a chance of missing the pickup" ... sometimes my fingers just do their own thing independent of my brain when I'm typing. :mrgreen:


Join the club Peachy. I wish it _only_ happened when I was typing!


----------



## RobbiD

peachy51 said:


> Yep ... I'm putting on my i-cord right now and it's going to curl under too
> 
> I'll have to see how it does after I finish and block it again.


RATZ! There has gotta be a way to stop the curl. There appears to be some research in my future! (hee hee).


----------



## RobbiD

beaz said:


> What is the best cast on method for both the body and end of row. I was using long tail on body and holding yarn same way but with one strand for end of row (don't know what that would be called) but I don't like the way my end of rows looks?


Beaz, I used long tail for initial cast on (22 sts), but then used reverse loop for the end of row cast ons. They seemed less "stepped" than the knitted cast on I tried the first time. They just sort of seemed to "curve"-no step- so they weren't as noticeable.


----------



## Carolinesol

peachy51 said:


> That would require a total redo ... I'm NOT going there at this point ... LOL
> 
> And I don't see how you could possibly do that on the two front sections where they meet ... the part with the cables.
> 
> I'm just going to finish mine and wear it and love it!
> 
> :mrgreen: :mrgreen:


It was just a thought. I already took mine all off once already...


----------



## peachy51

Carolinesol said:


> It was just a thought. I already took mine all off once already...


So did I and that's why I'm not going there again!

I'm thinking that it may curl while it's just laying there, but it won't curl as much, if at all, when it's worn. Hopefully.


----------



## RobbiD

peachy51 said:


> That would require a total redo ... I'm NOT going there at this point ... LOL
> 
> And I don't see how you could possibly do that on the two front sections where they meet ... the part with the cables.
> 
> I'm just going to finish mine and wear it and love it!
> 
> :mrgreen: :mrgreen:


 :thumbup: Yep, what she said:finish it, wear it, love it. I would add: Be damn proud of it! :lol:


----------



## Carolinesol

peachy51 said:


> So did I and that's why I'm not going there again!
> 
> I'm thinking that it may curl while it's just laying there, but it won't curl as much, if at all, when it's worn. Hopefully.


Sorry. I hope i have not upset you :-(


----------



## peachy51

Carolinesol said:


> Sorry. I hope i have not upset you :-(


Not at all. I just decided I'm gonna love it anyway and I honestly don't think it will curl as much when it's on.

On those stockinette portions, I don't think there would be any way to stop the curling unless it was a really big i-cord or enough rows of a non-curling stitch to weigh it down. I had already thought about that when I was knitting the body, but have never done i-cord before so I was really hoping that would be enough to hold it.


----------



## lulu11

gdhaven please show us a picture
peachy can you give us direcrtion to the pick up sleves so i can do this on the next one i make
thank you


----------



## beaz

I wonder if knitting backwards would solve the problem of stockinette curling. I read it curls due to the different size of the purl stitch.


----------



## mom2grif

I have started wrapping my purl stitches in the opposite direction in certain circumstances. What results is a tighter purl stitch but when you turn your work and are knitting back the stitch is twisted so you have knit into the back of the stitch. During the short rows where I was seeing large stitches between the knit and purl (ribbing) stitches I started doing this opposite wrap on the first purl stitch after a knit stitch. On the right side and the wrong side. It seems to be evening out those stitches in that transition.

http://www.classiceliteyarns.com/WebLetter/Stitches/Ladders/Ladders.php

See "reverse wrap"


----------



## murf

Do I do 1 full Chart B then on 2nd repeat start hip shaping or start hip shaping on 1st one & do the same on 2nd repeat? I have 1 repeat on B for my size. think i finally understand with all the help i got from everyone,but still not sure about this.


----------



## peachy51

lulu11 said:


> gdhaven please show us a picture
> peachy can you give us direcrtion to the pick up sleves so i can do this on the next one i make
> thank you


There are actually two videos (part 1 &2) and I believe Robbi should be credited for providing the links to these


----------



## mom2grif

murf said:


> Do I do 1 full Chart B then on 2nd repeat start hip shaping or start hip shaping on 1st one & do the same on 2nd repeat? I have 1 repeat on B for my size. think i finally understand with all the help i got from everyone,but still not sure about this.


It depends on what size you are making. If you look above chart B you'll see repeats for the sizes. Then when you have done that, you do row 1 of chart B and start your short rows from there.


----------



## lulu11

thank you Robbi and Peachy


peachy51 said:


> There are actually two videos (part 1 &2) and I believe Robbi should be credited for providing the links to these


----------



## murf

mom2grif but do i do hip shaping in both repeats?


----------



## mom2grif

Murf, What size are you making?

You'll do the hip and bust shaping as instructed below chart B. You're not really following chart B at that point, you'll want to look at the cheat sheet on page 7 during your shaping while following along those paragraphs below chart B.

Hey, I'm in Lexington, SC. We're just a couple hours apart.


----------



## murf

Im making a 42. Think Im brain dead, cant seem to get this thru my head. but begining to sink in. IF i even get this done we will have to meet sometime and show off our work.


----------



## mom2grif

murf said:


> Im making a 42. Think Im brain dead, cant seem to get this thru my head. but begining to sink in. IF i even get this done we will have to meet sometime and show off our work.


OK, if you look at the one sentence above chart B, it tells you to do one repeat of chart B for size 42. So after you've done the 44 rows of chart A, you'll do one repeat of chart B.

Then start the paragraphs below the chart. Knit row one of chart B then start your short rows. The reason it seems for that one row is that hip shaping is done on the wrong side. So you'll knit a short row of 44 then turn the work and knit back toward the end and when you are 5 stitches from the end you'll knit 2 together and then knit 3. Turn, knit a short row of 34 stitches.... Look at the cheat sheet and watch where the red dots are for your cable crossings.


----------



## Carolinesol

peachy51 said:


> Not at all. I just decided I'm gonna love it anyway and I honestly don't think it will curl as much when it's on.
> 
> On those stockinette portions, I don't think there would be any way to stop the curling unless it was a really big i-cord or enough rows of a non-curling stitch to weigh it down. I had already thought about that when I was knitting the body, but have never done i-cord before so I was really hoping that would be enough to hold it.


Good I am glad! I am loving mine also and will be wearing it on Thursday for the first time...... Curled up edges and all...
I had never done an I cord before either.... I do like the finished result.


----------



## questmiller

CU Volunteer said:


> Just a quick ?/ Are all folks using the Cascade 220 yarn? What are you using?


I used a Cascade 220 wannabe -- from Knitpicks called Swish. I was really worried when I wet blocked the sleeves because they were super long, but I was able to squish them to the correct dimensions and they dried nicely. The finished piece is real soft and probably the most comfortable sweater I've ever knit!


----------



## mom2grif

questmiller said:


> I used a Cascade 220 wannabe -- from Knitpicks called Swish. I was really worried when I wet blocked the sleeves because they were super long, but I was able to squish them to the correct dimensions and they dried nicely. The finished piece is real soft and probably the most comfortable sweater I've ever knit!


I'm using Nashua Cilantro, it's 80% cotton and 20% polyester. I'm hopeful the poly is going to prevent the dreaded cotton stretch out!


----------



## lulu11

so where is the picture?


questmiller said:


> I used a Cascade 220 wannabe -- from Knitpicks called Swish. I was really worried when I wet blocked the sleeves because they were super long, but I was able to squish them to the correct dimensions and they dried nicely. The finished piece is real soft and probably the most comfortable sweater I've ever knit!


----------



## janwalla

murf said:


> Think i may have done Chart A backward. Is Row1(Rs)read right to left and row2(ws)left to right or is it row 1 left to right and row 2 right to left?


The way i sorted it was to see what side the cables were on cos that would be a right side read from right to left, then i worked backwards to see what was the first row. Hope this makes sense cos to me i couldnt sort it out which was right or wrong side. I added extra for a deeper stockinette bit at front and the first time i ended up with a a wrong side and had to frog.


----------



## murf

Thanks janwalla and mom2grif Think i finally had an ahha monment. Things are FINALLY making sense. Took me long enough.


----------



## peachy51

questmiller said:


> I used a Cascade 220 wannabe -- from Knitpicks called Swish. I was really worried when I wet blocked the sleeves because they were super long, but I was able to squish them to the correct dimensions and they dried nicely. The finished piece is real soft and probably the most comfortable sweater I've ever knit!


I LOVE Swish. It's one of my favorite washable wools and the price is always good too ... especially when they are closing out colors and adding new ones :thumbup:


----------



## Marienkaeferoma

Not sure about the MRML increases in the sections between cables. I have little holes there. Did anyone else have this problem.


----------



## peachy51

Marienkaeferoma said:


> Not sure about the MRML increases in the sections between cables. I have little holes there. Did anyone else have this problem.


I aborted my first try at this sweater because the yarn I wanted to use was doing this same thing. Sometimes a yarn just doesn't want to be what you want it to be 

After I started over with a different yarn, I didn't have this problem.


----------



## Flybreit

Marienkaeferoma said:


> Not sure about the MRML increases in the sections between cables. I have little holes there. Did anyone else have this problem.


Marienkaeferoma, I had trouble with that too so I modified it a little. For the M1L, I just added my stitch on the bar between 2 knit stitches and for the M1R, I did the same as a purl on the next row.

I also did them closer to the 'outside' of the stitch group - i.e.: k1, M1, K1; then on the purl row: P1, M1, P2. That way my increase stitches weren't right on top of one anther and I avoided the 'step' look.

By the way, I'm in Missouri too


----------



## peachy51

Flybreit said:


> Marienkaeferoma, I had trouble with that too so I modified it a little. For the M1L, I just added my stitch on the bar between 2 knit stitches and for the M1R, I did the same as a purl on the next row.
> 
> I also did them closer to the 'outside' of the stitch group - i.e.: k1, M1, K1; then on the purl row: P1, M1, P2. That way my increase stitches weren't right on top of one anther and I avoided the 'step' look.
> 
> By the way, I'm in Missouri too


Hopefully you modified the way you did your decreases on the other side too because they match.

The placement as written on the pattern keeps the decreases and increases close to the bottom purl ditch and not out in the crescent of the stockinette.


----------



## mom2grif

murf said:


> Thanks janwalla and mom2grif Think i finally had an ahha monment. Things are FINALLY making sense. Took me long enough.


Yeah!


----------



## Flybreit

peachy51 said:


> Hopefully you modified the way you did your decreases on the other side too because they match.
> 
> The placement as written on the pattern keeps the decreases and increases close to the bottom purl ditch and not out in the crescent of the stockinette.


Haven't gotten there yet - but I did mark the chart


----------



## Marienkaeferoma

peachy51 said:


> Hopefully you modified the way you did your decreases on the other side too because they match.
> 
> The placement as written on the pattern keeps the decreases and increases close to the bottom purl ditch and not out in the crescent of the stockinette.


To me the increases are right in the middle. Am I reading the chart correctly?


----------



## Marienkaeferoma

Flybreit said:


> Marienkaeferoma, I had trouble with that too so I modified it a little. For the M1L, I just added my stitch on the bar between 2 knit stitches and for the M1R, I did the same as a purl on the next row.
> 
> I also did them closer to the 'outside' of the stitch group - i.e.: k1, M1, K1; then on the purl row: P1, M1, P2. That way my increase stitches weren't right on top of one anther and I avoided the 'step' look.
> 
> By the way, I'm in Missouri too


I am halfway between Columbia and St. Louis.


----------



## peachy51

Marienkaeferoma said:


> To me the increases are right in the middle. Am I reading the chart correctly?


I'm sorry, I was talking about the ones at the end of the rows on Chart A ... you are correct that the ones in the stockinette strips are in the center.


----------



## questmiller

lulu11 said:


> so where is the picture?


http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-162285-1.html


----------



## RobbiD

Marienkaeferoma said:


> To me the increases are right in the middle. Am I reading the chart correctly?


Marienkaeferoma, I didn't experience the holes you show in your pic. Maybe it's the yarn or are you doing M1 instead of a lifted increase? M1 and ML and MR are not quite the same technique. ML and MR are a lifted increase, using the leg of the stitch 1(MR) or 2 (ML) rows below. That may be why there are, or are not, holes. Maybe....


----------



## Flybreit

And I'm halfway between Columbia and Jeff City - small world


----------



## charlenekbenton

Marienkaeferoma,
I agree with RobbiD that u are not using the MR/ML increases....done the way Erica teaches there will be no holes in the increases....there is a video on You Tube if u need to see it, just type in knit MR/ML increase into search & the videos will pop up. It makes a huge difference!
Charlene


----------



## Marienkaeferoma

RobbiD said:


> Marienkaeferoma, I didn't experience the holes you show in your pic. Maybe it's the yarn or are you doing M1 instead of a lifted increase? M1 and ML and MR are not quite the same technique. ML and MR are a lifted increase, using the leg of the stitch 1(MR) or 2 (ML) rows below. That may be why there are, or are not, holes. Maybe....


Just finished a pair of socks with the lifted increases. They look ok. No holes. They didn't use the increases next to each other. 
I do knit left handed, so when the pattern says MR I do a ML and vice versa.
My ML on the left side look ok, too.


----------



## Marienkaeferoma

charlenekbenton said:


> Marienkaeferoma,
> I agree with RobbiD that u are not using the MR/ML increases....done the way Erica teaches there will be no holes in the increases....there is a video on You Tube if u need to see it, just type in knit MR/ML increase into search & the videos will pop up. It makes a huge difference!
> Charlene


I just finished a pair of socks that used the lifted increases and they looked ok. The increases were not next to each other. I wonder if that makes a difference?
I knit lefthanded, so when the pattern says MR I ML and vice versa. That shouldn't be a problem.


----------



## peachy51

UGH! I thought the knitting of the sweater was a piece of cake ... BUT ... the i-cord is giving me fits!!!

Maybe I'm just being too critical of my work, but it seems I'm wearing the sweater out trying to get the i-cord exactly the way I want it.

I need to just chill and keep going I think ... I'm guessing that no one is going to look at it remotely as closely as I do :|


----------



## Carolinesol

peachy51 said:


> UGH! I thought the knitting of the sweater was a piece of cake ... BUT ... the i-cord is giving me fits!!!
> 
> Maybe I'm just being too critical of my work, but it seems I'm wearing the sweater out trying to get the i-cord exactly the way I want it.
> 
> I need to just chill and keep going I think ... I'm guessing that no one is going to look at it remotely as closely as I do :|


Yes I think we are probably all to critical of our own work. I am sure it will look lovely. Mine turned out better than /neater than I thought it would.
Like you said chill and carry on....


----------



## peachy51

Carolinesol said:


> Yes I think we are probably all to critical of our own work. I am sure it will look lovely. Mine turned out better than /neater than I thought it would.
> Like you said chill and carry on....


I know ... I'm just impatient to get the i-cord finished so I can try the top-down sleeve and see how that goes.

And I did decide to put in the buttonholes and will get buttons for it. I do think it looks letter buttoned than it will open so at least this way I can wear it either way. :mrgreen:


----------



## Carolinesol

peachy51 said:


> I know ... I'm just impatient to get the i-cord finished so I can try the top-down sleeve and see how that goes.
> 
> And I did decide to put in the buttonholes and will get buttons for it. I do think it looks letter buttoned than it will open so at least this way I can wear it either way. :mrgreen:


I had a bit of trouble with the button holes... Even now think a bit big, but looks ok.
Is it late evening there ? Maybe you are just tired..


----------



## peachy51

Carolinesol said:


> I had a bit of trouble with the button holes... Even now think a bit big, but looks ok.
> Is it late evening there ? Maybe you are just tired..


LOL ... yeah, it's late (or early depending on how you look at it) ... it's 3:05 a.m.

But since I've retired, I don't keep any kind of schedule. I read most of the night last night and went to sleep at 10:00 a.m. this morning and got up at 4:30 p.m. ... soooooooo ... of course, I'm not sleepy now.

I just went in and tried it on and it's gonna be ok. I was right that when it's on it doesn't curl like it does when it's off. Good news on that front :thumbup:


----------



## Carolinesol

peachy51 said:


> LOL ... yeah, it's late (or early depending on how you look at it) ... it's 3:05 a.m.
> 
> But since I've retired, I don't keep any kind of schedule. I read most of the night last night and went to sleep at 10:00 a.m. this morning and got up at 4:30 p.m. ... soooooooo ... of course, I'm not sleepy now.
> 
> I just went in and tried it on and it's gonna be ok. I was right that when it's on it doesn't curl like it does when it's off. Good news on that front :thumbup:


Glad it's ok. I am going to wear mine tomorrow evening. Can't find anyone else here that has made one, which is a shame... Good night.


----------



## Charliedoodle

Have just started swatching and now using 6 1/2mm needles which makes my swatch look quite loose. My tension is usually consistent and haven't had any problems in the past. Should I change my needle size to obtain a tighter swatch and would I then need to do a smaller size.


----------



## RobbiD

Charliedoodle said:


> Have just started swatching and now using 6 1/2mm needles which makes my swatch look quite loose. My tension is usually consistent and haven't had any problems in the past. Should I change my needle size to obtain a tighter swatch and would I then need to do a smaller size.


Charltedoodle, if your swatch comes out to 17stX21rows for 4", you're OK with the needles you have. I had to drop down to US4 needles (3.5 mm) to get mine right. I thought I had my gauge right with US6 (4mm) needles, but had to frog the entire body because it "grew" 5". The fabric is a rather tight one. Hope this helps you.


----------



## RobbiD

peachy51 said:


> LOL ... yeah, it's late (or early depending on how you look at it) ... it's 3:05 a.m.
> 
> But since I've retired, I don't keep any kind of schedule. I read most of the night last night and went to sleep at 10:00 a.m. this morning and got up at 4:30 p.m. ... soooooooo ... of course, I'm not sleepy now.
> 
> I just went in and tried it on and it's gonna be ok. I was right that when it's on it doesn't curl like it does when it's off. Good news on that front :thumbup:


Peachy, I understand your schedule. We have an opposite one in our house. Go bed early and up at 2 or 3 am, and next day, up til 3 or 4 am and sleep til 8. There's no telling when we are gonna be up, or napping, or sleeping. Keeps the kids guessing 

Glad to hear that it doesn't curl when being worn. Let me know how your sleeves progress. I'm trying to catch up with you, but been slowing down a little (hee hee).


----------



## Charliedoodle

Think it may look OK on cables. Not sure about stocking stitch? Thanks for reply. Desperate to get started.


----------



## RobbiD

Carolinesol said:


> Glad it's ok. I am going to wear mine tomorrow evening. Can't find anyone else here that has made one, which is a shame... Good night.


I'll bet you have tons of people complimenting you on your sweater. It turned out really gorgeous. I think it will be nice to have a sweater that is a one-of-a-kind


----------



## RobbiD

Carolinesol said:


> I had a bit of trouble with the button holes... Even now think a bit big, but looks ok.
> Is it late evening there ? Maybe you are just tired..


Caroline, if the buttonholes are too big, could you just sew the i-cord to the body to make them smaller? I wouldn't think that would be very noticeable. Just a thought. I think the original sweater had rather large buttons on it though.


----------



## Carolinesol

RobbiD said:


> Caroline, if the buttonholes are too big, could you just sew the i-cord to the body to make them smaller? I wouldn't think that would be very noticeable. Just a thought. I think the original sweater had rather large buttons on it though.


Yes I will do that I think. I had not done an I cord before. My buttons are biggish !!!


----------



## Carolinesol

RobbiD said:


> I'll bet you have tons of people complimenting you on your sweater. It turned out really gorgeous. I think it will be nice to have a sweater that is a one-of-a-kind


I will let you know.....


----------



## beaz

I am back to Chart A again with an ML question. Do you count the stitch just worked as 1 and go into the next one down?


----------



## Diane D

grrr i am chart-challenged......


----------



## gdhavens

Marienkaeferoma said:


> To me the increases are right in the middle. Am I reading the chart correctly?


It depends on which increases you are talking about. All the sections need to get to 8 sts. The ML and MR are in the stockinette sections without cables, the other increases are in the cable sections and are done in the cable twist area to hide them. The ML and MR are done in the center to give the outside edge the same type of slant on both sides.

I have learned how to do so many things by working on this pattern (not all are successful, but I am learning. LOL!). I am not sure about posting a picture, although it could be one of those "what you do not want your sweater to look like" type pics. LOL!


----------



## mom2grif

beaz said:


> I am back to Chart A again with an ML question. Do you count the stitch just worked as 1 and go into the next one down?


No, if you count the stitch you just made, you'll count down 2.


----------



## charlenekbenton

Beaz,
You Tube will show exactly how to make the MR/ML increases search their videos with search words "knitting MR ML increase"... It will be very helpful!
Charlene


----------



## beaz

The tube does not help, they go too fast. The instructions do not match Erica's as they say to pick up the bar in between the stitches - I am not getting it


----------



## Carolinesol

beaz said:


> The tube does not help, they go too fast. The instructions do not match Erica's as they say to pick up the bar in between the stitches - I am not getting it


I think that's m1 you are looking at not ML & MR


----------



## mom2grif

beaz said:


> The tube does not help, they go too fast. The instructions do not match Erica's as they say to pick up the bar in between the stitches - I am not getting it


Beaz, if you look at this image I attached. The yellow stitch is what you just knit. The red stitch is what you'll pick up and knit for the ML.


----------



## charlenekbenton

Beaz....here's the video that worked for me on you tube...."Left and Right lifted increases sept 13, 2010 socialknitgirl" I watched it while having my knitting in font of me...u can stop video to make the increase then go back & continue....I used it more than once until I got the hang of it. Seeing it really made Erica's instructions jump off the page.
Try it it works!
Charlene


----------



## mom2grif

charlenekbenton said:


> Beaz....here's the video that worked for me on you tube...."Left and Right lifted increases sept 13, 2010 socialknitgirl" I watched it while having my knitting in font of me...u can stop video to make the increase then go back & continue....I used it more than once until I got the hang of it. Seeing it really made Erica's instructions jump off the page.
> Try it it works!
> Charlene


----------



## catlover1960

Charliedoodle said:


> Have just started swatching and now using 6 1/2mm needles which makes my swatch look quite loose. My tension is usually consistent and haven't had any problems in the past. Should I change my needle size to obtain a tighter swatch and would I then need to do a smaller size.


I had to go up to a US9 needle to get the correct tension. I also thought the tension on the swatch looked loose, but proceeded with the sweater. I am now through part of the bust shaping and in the overall sweater the tension looks fine. I am working the smallest size on the pattern and hope it fits my niece. My tension was 16 1/2 sts x 21 rows.


----------



## Charliedoodle

Will get started and see how it looks. Thanks for reply.


----------



## Marienkaeferoma

gdhavens said:


> It depends on which increases you are talking about. All the sections need to get to 8 sts. The ML and MR are in the stockinette sections without cables, the other increases are in the cable sections and are done in the cable twist area to hide them. The ML and MR are done in the center to give the outside edge the same type of slant on both sides.
> 
> I have learned how to do so many things by working on this pattern (not all are successful, but I am learning. LOL!). I am not sure about posting a picture, although it could be one of those "what you do not want your sweater to look like" type pics. LOL!


Thanks for the help. I posted a picture, and there were a few other responses back and forth a few pages ago. I was talking about the MLMR increases in the stockinette part. I am getting a small hole there. I am just to the end of chart A, and am seriously thinking of frogging all the way back. I know the holes will 'bug' me forever! LOL I also might go down from a nine to an eight. The guage would only be one stitch and one row different, and I really think the eights will make a neater /less loose look.


----------



## beaz

mom2grif said:


> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8qFg1H0m90


That was the video I was watching. But I am having trouble comparing the chart to what I am working on. My yarn is so stretched out from trying all this. I don't understand: Erica's page 1 says: All stitches to the L of the marker are K on RS and purled on WS yet it doesn't indicate that on chart. Is left side of chart purled on WS and right size as it states...am very frustrated and don't understand why I can't get this when others did.


----------



## questmiller

beaz said:


> That was the video I was watching. But I am having trouble comparing the chart to what I am working on. My yarn is so stretched out from trying all this. I don't understand: Erica's page 1 says: All stitches to the L of the marker are K on RS and purled on WS yet it doesn't indicate that on chart. Is left side of chart purled on WS and right size as it states...am very frustrated and don't understand why I can't get this when others did.


Baez, you are right that it doesn't show on her chart. It will be obvious when you get to knitting that section, which is simply stockinette (with the increases at the marker) hang in there!


----------



## beaz

questmiller said:


> Baez, you are right that it doesn't show on her chart. It will be obvious when you get to knitting that section, which is simply stockinette (with the increases at the marker) hang in there!


Frogged again, I think you are all much more experienced knitters than I am and feel am over my head here.


----------



## janwalla

beaz said:


> That was the video I was watching. But I am having trouble comparing the chart to what I am working on. My yarn is so stretched out from trying all this. I don't understand: Erica's page 1 says: All stitches to the L of the marker are K on RS and purled on WS yet it doesn't indicate that on chart. Is left side of chart purled on WS and right size as it states...am very frustrated and don't understand why I can't get this when others did.


If you are working from left to right it should be a wrong side and you reverse the blanks and dots, Cos on the right side the dots are purl stitches but they are knit stitches on the wrong side. I found it easier to look at my work and be guided by that, If it presented as a knit I knit, If it was a purl I purled. The cables etc are all on the right side following the chart "right to left". Some of the increases are on the purled/wrong side. I hope this helps. I had to frog as i got the wrong and right sides mixed up. Im knitting the extra stockinette bit on the bottom, I have markers placed after the first extra 10 then after the 2 before the increase at the edge then I placed a marker after each repeat of red box. Ive also colour coded my chart so I can see easily when increases/cables are coming and I shade every finished line in with pencil, so the next one ready to do is still white. Thats the way I keep track. I did find the first increase strange cos I thought I was short a stitch until I realised that when it tells you to increase, is the extra stitch, so you go from 3 at the end to 4 as stated. sorry this is long winded but it may help.


----------



## mom2grif

beaz said:


> Frogged again, I think you are all much more experienced knitters than I am and feel am over my head here.


Don't give up yet, Beaz! We'll get you through it!


----------



## peachy51

beaz said:


> I am back to Chart A again with an ML question. Do you count the stitch just worked as 1 and go into the next one down?


beaz ... watch this one ... you can't miss


----------



## questmiller

beaz said:


> Frogged again, I think you are all much more experienced knitters than I am and feel am over my head here.


I'm sending you a Private Message...


----------



## questmiller

questmiller said:


> I'm sending you a Private Message...


wait, first I have to figure out how...


----------



## peachy51

questmiller said:


> wait, first I have to figure out how...


quest, click on her name and go to her profile ... when you get there you will see an option to send PM


----------



## questmiller

peachy51 said:


> quest, click on her name and go to her profile ... when you get there you will see an option to send PM


Got it


----------



## Bethe1

I'm posting pics of my progress so far because I'm unsure of whether to do another repeat of Charts B and C. My bust measurement is 35" and I was planning on making the 36" size but when everyone started talking about their sweaters growing, I decided to make the 34" size. So I've now completed 3 repeats of Chart B and Chart C. I pinned it to my tank top (with the aid of my 10 yr. old assistant) and this is what I've got. Stretched it some too. Do I need to go back and do 4 repeats of each? Ugh.....

P.S. when I blocked my swatch it grew to the right gauge, but I don't remember the exact amount.


----------



## beaz

mom2grif said:


> Don't give up yet, Beaz! We'll get you through it!


I have been casting on with the long tail and I'm told this creates the cast on and the first K row, I am thinking this is wrong, my WS row after casting on is on the inside of the needle.


----------



## peachy51

beaz said:


> I have been casting on with the long tail and I'm told this creates the cast on and the first K row, I am thinking this is wrong, my WS row after casting on is on the inside of the needle.


I use the long-tail cast on quite frequently and I never count the cast on as the first row.


----------



## Flybreit

Beautiful! 

So if you don't add more you'll have 5 rows before you bind off for the arm hole - will that give you enough to be comfortable? 

Another chart B and C of 20 rows + the 5 before armhole would be another 4 1/2" - right?


----------



## beaz

peachy51 said:


> I use the long-tail cast on quite frequently and I never count the cast on as the first row.


"Yes, the long tail cast on is equivalent to casting on and knitting the first row, all in one step. So the first row after a long tail cast on should be a purl row. " Saw this on Knitters Review and I think this is why my RS is facing inside. So, if I knit a purl row then I can start Row 1 of pattern on RS facing out which is how I think the pattern seems to me...maybe I am thinking this too much..thoughts please


----------



## RobbiD

beaz said:


> The tube does not help, they go too fast. The instructions do not match Erica's as they say to pick up the bar in between the stitches - I am not getting it


Beaz, this is the video I used. The variegated yarn she uses makes it much easier to follow, and she goes pretty slow to show the technique. I still had to watch it a couple of times. She shows both the MR and ML. I stopped it, and rewound, and re-watched several times. 



Hope this helps.

The stitch that you pick up the bar in between, on chart A, is the twisted M1 and is a purl M1, is that the one you are having trouble with? I had trouble seeing the bar, but I am using dark yarn.


----------



## mom2grif

Bethe1 said:


> I'm posting pics of my progress so far because I'm unsure of whether to do another repeat of Charts B and C. My bust measurement is 35" and I was planning on making the 36" size but when everyone started talking about their sweaters growing, I decided to make the 34" size. So I've now completed 3 repeats of Chart B and Chart C. I pinned it to my tank top (with the aid of my 10 yr. old assistant) and this is what I've got. Stretched it some too. Do I need to go back and do 4 repeats of each? Ugh.....
> 
> P.S. when I blocked my swatch it grew to the right gauge, but I don't remember the exact amount.


I think it'll be perfect. It will grow when you block it. So don't make it any bigger!!! You doing so good, Sista!


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## Marienkaeferoma

Went and frogged mine. Knitted up a 'Whitman'(i.e. sampler), using the ML and MR in different ways. I think that I will do it this way: MR K1 ML. I didn't get the hole like I did with them right next to each other. Any thoughts as to whether this might be a problem? I know I will have to do something similar when I get to the decreases. (This is for the increases in the stockinette portions between the cable section.


----------



## RobbiD

beaz said:


> I have been casting on with the long tail and I'm told this creates the cast on and the first K row, I am thinking this is wrong, my WS row after casting on is on the inside of the needle.


Beaz, I did long tail cast on, too. I didn't count it as my first row. The first row I knitted after my cast on was set-up row 1. By the time you have your set up rows done, you will be able to see which ar rs and which are ws rows.


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## Marienkaeferoma

Oh, and another thing. My DH has actually taken an interest in this sweater! Usually he jokes that my knitting is a waste of time, and doesn't really pay much attention. Problem is, he saw the back of the sweaters that have been knitted already and expressed a dislike for the cables going all the way around. Is anyone doing a plain back? If so, how/when did you do it?


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## mom2grif

beaz said:


> "Yes, the long tail cast on is equivalent to casting on and knitting the first row, all in one step. So the first row after a long tail cast on should be a purl row. " Saw this on Knitters Review and I think this is why my RS is facing inside. So, if I knit a purl row then I can start Row 1 of pattern on RS facing out which is how I think the pattern seems to me...maybe I am thinking this too much..thoughts please


In the case of this pattern, the first row that you will knit is the right side. I've never given much thought to the cast on being the first row. I just follow my pattern. Sometimes a pattern starts with a right side row and sometimes a wrong side row. In this case it's a right side row. I do think you might be over thinking all of this. Go row by row. Don't worry about the next row while you're knitting. Just do it! You can!

Cast on 22 stitches. P2, K2, p2, k2, ... cast on 4. Once that's done, move on to Row 2. After these first 6 setup rows, you'll see that the right side has 3 knit stitches on each end.

I was sincere with my PM, call me if you think it might help!

Susan


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## Flybreit

LOL - did anyone see this in the pattern request section of the digest today:  anyone recognise this pattern?

I thought we might be going on another long and wonderful journey!


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## mom2grif

Another thought on the cast on being the first row, therefore purl the "next" row as the wrong side. If you're knitting in the round you never knit the wrong side.


----------



## Jessica-Jean

mom2grif said:


> Another thought on the cast on being the first row, therefore purl the "next" row as the wrong side. If you're knitting in the round you never knit the wrong side.


No, you don't, because you never turn the work to the other side.


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## RobbiD

beaz said:


> That was the video I was watching. But I am having trouble comparing the chart to what I am working on. My yarn is so stretched out from trying all this. I don't understand: Erica's page 1 says: All stitches to the L of the marker are K on RS and purled on WS yet it doesn't indicate that on chart. Is left side of chart purled on WS and right size as it states...am very frustrated and don't understand why I can't get this when others did.


Beaz, sit back, take a deep breath, have a sip of wine, and relax.

Now to the question of the sts to the left of the marker: In the set-up portion of the instructions, Erica indicates placing a marker just before the ML on row 1 of Chart A. As you can see, the number of stitches to the left of the marker increases as you work through the chart. All sts to the left of the marker (with the rs facing you) will be knit on the rs (odd numbered rows, read from right to left on chart) and purled on the ws (even numbered rows, read from left to right on chart). All white boxes on the chart are knit on rs, and purl on ws. The boxes with the dots in the middle are the opposite- purled on the rs and knit on the ws. If a stitch symbol appears on the chart on an odd numbered row, that stitch is done on the rs. If the symbol appears on an even numbered row, the stitch is done on the wrong side.
The way the pattern has been charted, all increase and decrease rows will have the number of boxes that equal the number of stitches you will have AFTER the inc or dec have been completed. All solid gray boxes are to be ignored. As your stitches increase, these boxes will change to reflect that they are now stitches. As your stitches decrease, the number of gray boxes will reappear.

As to why some are having less trouble "getting it" than others, there are a great many of us that had to get to our personal "light bulb" moments. It took me forever to understand the cable cheat sheet. I had to frog over 600 yards of yarn, and I am still not sure what happened to make my sweater "grow" 5". I finally decided to blame it on all the rain we've been having  I'm still not sure that it is right, but have been trying to keep tabs on my measurements ( with Peachy51's help). We have all been frustrated by something that we _should_ have known how to do, or so we thought. Don't let it get you down. If you get frustrated, just set your knitting down for a little while, then go back to it a little later. If you need to vent, or have a question, feel free to PM me. I'll be glad to help anyway that I can. Don't give up. You'll be glad you didn't.

PS- Sorry I got so long-winded


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## peachy51

beaz said:


> "Yes, the long tail cast on is equivalent to casting on and knitting the first row, all in one step. So the first row after a long tail cast on should be a purl row. " Saw this on Knitters Review and I think this is why my RS is facing inside. So, if I knit a purl row then I can start Row 1 of pattern on RS facing out which is how I think the pattern seems to me...maybe I am thinking this too much..thoughts please


beaz ... it's a matter of preference ... I never count the long-tail cast on as my first row. It's never been a problem and it wasn't a problem with this sweater.


----------



## beaz

Jessica-Jean said:


> No, you don't, because you never turn the work to the other side.


Using circulars but not knitting in the round


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## Bethe1

I've done Rows 1-8 of Chart C already so I'm due to start the Left Waist Shaping short rows, so yes, I still have 5 short rows before I bind off for the armhole. I think those 25 rows would add 3-3/4". Rrrrrgggghhh I wish you all were here so you could help me figure it out.



Flybreit said:


> Beautiful!
> 
> So if you don't add more you'll have 5 rows before you bind off for the arm hole - will that give you enough to be comfortable?
> 
> Another chart B and C of 20 rows + the 5 before armhole would be another 4 1/2" - right?


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## mom2grif

beaz said:


> Using circulars but not knitting in the round


Beaz, Jessica Jean and I are only speaking of knitting in the round. I use interchangeable circular needles for everything I knit, if at all possible


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## questmiller

Marienkaeferoma said:


> Went and frogged mine. Knitted up a 'Whitman'(i.e. sampler), using the ML and MR in different ways. I think that I will do it this way: MR K1 ML. I didn't get the hole like I did with them right next to each other. Any thoughts as to whether this might be a problem? I know I will have to do something similar when I get to the decreases. (This is for the increases in the stockinette portions between the cable section.


I don't think it would be a problem to do it MR k1 ML as you suggest. The important thing is to have the correct number of stitches in the section. How you get there is up to you. I contemplated doing the increases at the edge of the section in the purl ditches, but then figured out that I was doing them wrong...


----------



## mom2grif

questmiller said:


> I don't think it would be a problem to do it MR k1 ML as you suggest. The important thing is to have the correct number of stitches in the section. How you get there is up to you. I contemplated doing the increases at the edge of the section in the purl ditches, but then figured out that I was doing them wrong...


The only thing about that is there are a even number of stitches so your "set" if ML K1 MR will be uneven in the space. If I was going to do that I'd K2 in between them.


----------



## RobbiD

Bethe1 said:


> I've done Rows 1-8 of Chart C already so I'm due to start the Left Waist Shaping short rows, so yes, I still have 5 short rows before I bind off for the armhole. I think those 25 rows would add 3-3/4". Rrrrrgggghhh I wish you all were here so you could help me figure it out.


Beth, if it helps any, each repeat of chartb, or c, was about 2" on mine. I did a total of 4 repeats of each on mine for size 38. The last measurement I took was along the second cable from the top, and was 19" from center back to cast-on edge. I'll measure armhole to armhole as soon as I wake up enough to find my ruler. :roll: Just having my first cup of coffee for the day


----------



## janwalla

peachy51 said:


> beaz ... it's a matter of preference ... I never count the long-tail cast on as my first row. It's never been a problem and it wasn't a problem with this sweater.


I too used the long tail cast on and have no problems and like Peachy I never count it as one knitted row. 
Ive knitted chart A and have done the hip shaping and bust shaping and Thank you Robbi D your broken up intructions have been very helpful and your explanation of how to do the cardi is brilliant and spot on. Beaz if you follow what RobbiD has written it should all become very clear. 
As for all the MR Ml ML etc I didn't like the holes that appear when you do the two increases together so I have staggered it. Im hoping that when its blocked the holes with a bit of tugging this or that stitch, it may be less obvious. Instead of frogging (again) I just increased as neatly as possible. I even split my slubby bits of yarn and made two stitches out of one in places, As long as the stitch count is ok and you increase where it states (on that portion of cable or plain) using bar between or whichever way you are comfortable with it should be ok. Dont worry, I was hesitant to start, it does become easier as you go on. You are able to see your knitting developing and can work out where you are within the pattern. Dont stress over it Beaz, you can do it! There are lots of people here to help. Thanks everyone!!


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## Marienkaeferoma

I realized this last night when I reknitted up to the first MRML spot. I will just have to see what II can figure out. 


mom2grif said:


> The only thing about that is there are a even number of stitches so your "set" if ML K1 MR will be uneven in the space. If I was going to do that I'd K2 in between them.


----------



## questmiller

mom2grif said:


> The only thing about that is there are a even number of stitches so your "set" if ML K1 MR will be uneven in the space. If I was going to do that I'd K2 in between them.


good point -- but if she's able to get it to be fairly unobtrusive it won't matter that much.


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## beaz

Well, made a little progress again but am stuck at the twisted make 1 on chart a, line 4. Just what is the strand in between the stitches, is it the bar?.


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## peachy51

beaz said:


> Well, made a little progress again but am stuck at the twisted make 1 on chart a, line 4. Just what is the strand in between the stitches, is it the bar?.


Yes, it is the bar between the stitches.


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## beaz

peachy51 said:


> Yes, it is the bar between the stitches.


Some of these don't really have bars as it is row above those LT slip stitches. I am picking up the bar on the second stitch; i.e., P, Ml twist and P. Is this right?


----------



## Carolinesol

Wore my cardi out 'WITH LOVE ' tonight for the first time.... My sister in law loved it.....


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## peachy51

Carolinesol said:


> Wore my cardi out 'WITH LOVE ' tonight for the first time.... My sister in law loved it.....


 :thumbup: :thumbup:


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## CarolZ

peachy51 said:


> Yes, it is the bar between the stitches.


Oops Peachy, this is for beaz and anyone else that's having problems with ML/MR and getting holes.

Here's the link for the ML MR. According to this you do not pick up the bar between stitches. That could be why you're getting holes. Hope this helps.


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## janwalla

CarolZ said:


> Oops Peachy, this is for beaz and anyone else that's having problems with ML/MR and getting holes.
> 
> Here's the link for the ML MR. According to this you do not pick up the bar between stitches. That could be why you're getting holes. Hope this helps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Peachy is right! it is the bar as it is the single increase that was referred to and not the ML MR lifted increases. There have been lots of videos posted for the MR and ML increases already. In pages gone by. I did it exactly as posted videos and as they were together they still made slight holes. I suppose nothing will be completely invisible but someone somewhere will sure to "unvent" "another" better way! Lol :lol:


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## peachy51

janwalla said:


> Peachy is right! it is the bar as it is the single increase that was referred to and not the ML MR lifted increases.


Exactly! I was responding to beaz's question regarding the twisted purl increase which is made by picking up the bar between the stitches.


----------



## CarolZ

janwalla said:


> Peachy is right! it is the bar as it is the single increase that was referred to and not the ML MR lifted increases. There have been lots of videos posted for the MR and ML increases already. In pages gone by. I did it exactly as posted videos and as they were together they still made slight holes. I suppose nothing will be completely invisible but someone somewhere will sure to "unvent" "another" better way! Lol :lol:


Oops sorry, my mistake. I thought they were referring to the ML/MR and not the M1. Guess I should learn to read everything!


----------



## RobbiD

beaz said:


> Some of these don't really have bars as it is row above those LT slip stitches. I am picking up the bar on the second stitch; i.e., P, Ml twist and P. Is this right?


Beaz, it sounds good to me! Yes, p, twisted M1, p, is the right place for the increase. I had trouble seeing the bar between the stitches, too. I thought it was because I am using a dark yarn, and our weather has been so bad we aren't getting much sunlight. I have to have a light on even at noon. I picked up whatever bar seemed to be the right one. If it looks OK from the right side, it's right. That's my story, and I'm sticking to it :lol: . As you go further, those M1 are always the row after the cable cross, and use the stitches involved in the cross. The placement of the increases can be where the yarn is pretty tight, so I had to pick up the bar with the right needle and transfer it to the left needle several times. Just try to be sure that you put the bar on the needle so it looks almost as if it were only "looped" over the left needle, then purl into the front of the stitch, causing it to twist. This closes up any hole that might appear if the stitch is not twisted. If you happen to grab the wrong bar, it is unlikely that it will show on the right side, as it will be somewhat hidden by the cable crossing. As long as you end up with the correct number of stitches, and it looks good, then you did it "right". 
Thank goodness they are only on the right front of the sweater. When you have finished chart A, there are no more twisted increases!


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## RobbiD

Carolinesol said:


> Wore my cardi out 'WITH LOVE ' tonight for the first time.... My sister in law loved it.....


O told you it was awesome!! :thumbup:


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## Needleme

Carolinesol said:


> Wore my cardi out 'WITH LOVE ' tonight for the first time.... My sister in law loved it.....


Thrilled for you! This weekend I plan to watch the Craftsy tutorial on short rows, put in a lifeline, and start Chart B.
Oh, and clean out the fridge-- yuck!


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## Carolinesol

Thanks again ladies ......
Good luck with the fridge.


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## janwalla

AAAGH!!! Im at the underarm bit and have just finished bust shaping C and am at the 4th repeat for the hip shaping and have discovered Im a stitch short for a cable cross! I cant find where i must have dropped it so it looks like im going to have to frog! Dont know if its best to tink all the way back or just pull it all out to the lifeline i place before all the short row shaping started? any ideas?


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## gdhavens

If there is any way to count the stitches on your lifeline, I would go back to there if the count is correct there. 

I have my sweater main part done and am working on the sleeves. I didn't like the set in sleeves I knit, so am trying the top down knit in sleeve. I like the looks of it, but I made a mistake pulling the contrast yarn out and taking up the "slack" in the picked up stitches and accidentally pulled a partial row of stitches in the sleeve. I have left it for awhile and will go back to it later. It probably wouldn't have happened if I had taken my time when I first thought something was wrong, but I have no patience!!! LOL!!!


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## janwalla

I think I may try to tink first, if I can keep track of the short rows backwards lol. There was enough stitches for the cable on the previous one or i would have noticed, I must admit i am getting a bit mixed up with the cable crossings, I think i have it, then i get lost. I have been trying to count rows where necessary but.... I wish I would get the light bulb moment still waiting lol :lol: :lol:


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## gdhavens

Janwalla, have you been using the cable cheat sheet? If you lay it out and then think of it as your piece, it works GREAT to tell you exactly where you need to cable in the short rows, and it saves you from having to count rows.

If you can just go back to the last "all the way across" part in chart "C" and the count is o.k. there, that would save you a little work. This sweater is a fun knit, but it can get a little confusing with the cables. One small trick I used when doing the short rows and cables, I used a stitch holder for my cable needle. After I finished a cable, I would look at the "cheat sheet" and find where I would be cabling next and put my stitch holder in that section. That way, every time I came to it, I checked to see if I had to cable on that row.

Have fun and Good Luck!!!


----------



## catlover1960

janwalla said:


> AAAGH!!! Im at the underarm bit and have just finished bust shaping C and am at the 4th repeat for the hip shaping and have discovered Im a stitch short for a cable cross! I cant find where i must have dropped it so it looks like im going to have to frog! Dont know if its best to tink all the way back or just pull it all out to the lifeline i place before all the short row shaping started? any ideas?


Janwalla, I was at about the point where you are and realized I had made a mistake in Chart A, very close to the beginning. I frogged the whole thing last night, because I knew I would not be happy knowing there was a mistake. Will start over later today. I feel your pain and hope you are able to find your mistake and correct without having to frog.


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## janwalla

Thank you for your support! I will try that with the stitch marker It seems like a good idea for me. I need a reminder cos i go off merrily knitting and then realise I have missed a cable! I am using a cotton/linen/acrylic yarn that has slubby bits of cotton so its not smooth and makes it unclear when i am knitting across, if its due a cable cross or its the stockinette bit. I have tried the cheat sheet but i still seem to miss (or think I am ) a cable. I put a life line in the 1st row of chart B so if the tinking doesnt work i can always stop there and do the shaping again. Thanks for your help.


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## peachy51

gdhavens said:


> Janwalla, have you been using the cable cheat sheet? If you lay it out and then think of it as your piece, it works GREAT to tell you exactly where you need to cable in the short rows, and it saves you from having to count rows.
> 
> If you can just go back to the last "all the way across" part in chart "C" and the count is o.k. there, that would save you a little work. This sweater is a fun knit, but it can get a little confusing with the cables. One small trick I used when doing the short rows and cables, I used a stitch holder for my cable needle. After I finished a cable, I would look at the "cheat sheet" and find where I would be cabling next and put my stitch holder in that section. That way, every time I came to it, I checked to see if I had to cable on that row.
> 
> Have fun and Good Luck!!!


I agree that the cheat sheet is a wonderful tool. I have finished my body piece, but that is a great tip about hooking the cable needle in the next cable column that will get a cross. I'll have to remember that for next time. Even without doing that, I thought the sheet was the cat's meow! :mrgreen:


----------



## beaz

I have a problem with Chart A, Row 4: Have 45 stitches going into this, starting at L reversing the stitches for WS side rows, left side of chart is okay, BUT right side is not working out. I start reversing the stitches 2k, 2P, my next 3 stitches are P, BUT I AM PURLING ONTO K STITCHES and my last stitches in pattern are P which don't match the chart because they should be K. This is not making sense.??


----------



## RobbiD

beaz said:


> I have a problem with Chart A, Row 4: Have 45 stitches going into this, starting at L reversing the stitches for WS side rows, left side of chart is okay, BUT right side is not working out. I start reversing the stitches 2k, 2P, my next 3 stitches are P, BUT I AM PURLING ONTO K STITCHES and my last stitches in pattern are P which don't match the chart because they should be K. This is not making sense.??


Hi beaz. Row 4 should be as follows:
p2,slip marker, p2,k2,p1,twisted purl increase,p1,k2,*p2,k2,p1,twisted purl increase, p1,k2*, repeat from *to*4 times total, end row p3.
I hope this helps


----------



## RobbiD

janwalla said:


> I think I may try to tink first, if I can keep track of the short rows backwards lol. There was enough stitches for the cable on the previous one or i would have noticed, I must admit i am getting a bit mixed up with the cable crossings, I think i have it, then i get lost. I have been trying to count rows where necessary but.... I wish I would get the light bulb moment still waiting lol :lol: :lol:


Janwalla, I discovered I had made a cable cross on a set of stitches that didn't have cables  . I frogged back to the last full, side to side row, prior to the mistaken crossing. That way I didn't have to try and keep track of short rows (had a hard enough time frontwards, let alone backwards  ) Picking up the stitches from the full row wasn't that hard, and made it easy to find my place to start up again.


----------



## peachy51

beaz said:


> I have a problem with Chart A, Row 4: Have 45 stitches going into this, starting at L reversing the stitches for WS side rows, left side of chart is okay, BUT right side is not working out. I start reversing the stitches 2k, 2P, my next 3 stitches are P, BUT I AM PURLING ONTO K STITCHES and my last stitches in pattern are P which don't match the chart because they should be K. This is not making sense.??


beaz, the chart is correct. If you are purling into knit stitches, you must have missed something on the previous row.

Row 4 should be:

P4
K2
P1
Twisted Purl Increase
P1
K2

The next 8 stitches are done 4 times

P2
K2
P1 
Twisted Purl Increase
P1
K2

Then the final P3


----------



## Needleme

Carolinesol said:


> Thanks again ladies ......
> Good luck with the fridge.


Thanks!! :roll:


----------



## ElegantDetails

I have a question about the cables across the back.......did anybody do the back with the cables continuing in the same direction? Instead of crossing them like the pictured shown. If you did, do you continue with the same pattern all the way and do they match up ok on the front?


----------



## peachy51

ElegantDetails said:


> I have a question about the cables across the back.......did anybody do the back with the cables continuing in the same direction? Instead of crossing them like the pictured shown. If you did, do you continue with the same pattern all the way and do they match up ok on the front?


I have not seen the back of one done that way. I did mine as the pattern is written and I think the little dip in the back adds a slimming effect along with the waist shaping.


----------



## Carolinesol

ElegantDetails said:


> I have a question about the cables across the back.......did anybody do the back with the cables continuing in the same direction? Instead of crossing them like the pictured shown. If you did, do you continue with the same pattern all the way and do they match up ok on the front?


Hi. I think the first lady to finish and post her photo did the cables all the same way. Questmiller is her name !


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## ElegantDetails

Good to know....slimming is always the magic word. I'm at the point where I have to decide. I haven't actually seen one...I just remember it was discussed quite a few pages back. Can't seem to find it again. Thanks for your help.


peachy51 said:


> I have not seen the back of one done that way. I did mine as the pattern is written and I think the little dip in the back adds a slimming effect along with the waist shaping.


 :-D


----------



## Erica Patberg

Check to see if you can find the dropped stitch. If it's just that you haven't made the stitch, not that it's dropped and will continue to unravel on you, just go ahead and make the stitch at the cross. Know what I mean? You've got 7 sts.... you're supposed to cross 4 over 4. Cross 4 over 3, and when you knit that 3, knit into the front and back of the last sts on the cable needle. Viola! 4 over 4. You'll never see it, it'll all disappear in tje the cable cross. (That's just what I would do). If you have actually dropped st, you'll have to pick it up.



janwalla said:


> AAAGH!!! Im at the underarm bit and have just finished bust shaping C and am at the 4th repeat for the hip shaping and have discovered Im a stitch short for a cable cross! I cant find where i must have dropped it so it looks like im going to have to frog! Dont know if its best to tink all the way back or just pull it all out to the lifeline i place before all the short row shaping started? any ideas?


----------



## Erica Patberg

That's exactly the intention. 



gdhavens said:


> Everyone that is concerned with the curl on the bottom, I think that may be part of the design. The Icord goes from the bottom right front where the decreases begin, up the right side, around the neck, down the left side and across to the start of the increased stitches on the left side. It does not go all the way around the bottom.
> 
> I think the bottom edge is supposed to curl up to resemble the Icord on the front, and the Icord gives that same curled edge and "encases" the edge of the cast on/bind off stitches. At least this is how I did mine and it looks "finished." The bottom of the back only curls up to the P2 "ditch".
> 
> If I am wrong, I sincerely apologize.


----------



## Carolinesol

ElegantDetails said:


> I have a question about the cables across the back.......did anybody do the back with the cables continuing in the same direction? Instead of crossing them like the pictured shown. If you did, do you continue with the same pattern all the way and do they match up ok on the front?


If you look on the page Ericas sunburst cardigan you can just see the cables straight across I think.


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## janwalla

Erica Patberg said:


> Check to see if you can find the dropped stitch. If it's just that you haven't made the stitch, not that it's dropped and will continue to unravel on you, just go ahead and make the stitch at the cross. Know what I mean? You've got 7 sts.... you're supposed to cross 4 over 4. Cross 4 over 3, and when you knit that 3, knit into the front and back of the last sts on the cable needle. Viola! 4 over 4. You'll never see it, it'll all disappear in tje the cable cross. (That's just what I would do). If you have actually dropped st, you'll have to pick it up.


Yes I had dropped the b****y stitch, I knew cos I had already done the 4x4 cable cross previously, thats how i knew i was a stitch short for the cable. i found it hiding at the previous cable cross. I tinked and had it all sorted ,knitted it all back up and realised I had forgotten to do the last 5 knits :x (k2tog k3) 
So I just frogged it all back to the lifeline (row 2 of chart B) I couldn't face all the tinking again! However I have been knitting all day and have got back to where i was, at last, and i've done it properly! no dropped stitches! and no memory lapse! lol :lol: yeah!!! onwards and upwards!! 
Oh and thank you so much "gdhavens" for the tip about marking the next cable cross due, it makes it so much easier to see and compare with the magical cable cheat sheet!! Erica you are brilliant and a knitting genius!! Thank you sooooooooooo much! :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:


----------



## janwalla

Erica Patberg said:


> That's exactly the intention.


Erica I have added 10 stitches extra to the length, I presume to make it right that Ill have to put I-cord around all the bottom edge ans well as the fronts ?


----------



## Erica Patberg

The simple answer is yes.


----------



## Erica Patberg

Here are a few pics of my finished sweater. Thought it best to snap a few before I start wearing it every single day!


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## mom2grif

So pretty, Erica! It's just lovely. Love the color! 

FYI, it's time to get your pattern moved to your paid area! And add it to Ravelry so we can all add our projects there. I was going to, but I didn't want to until you had it for sale. You spent too much time on this to not be making money on it. I think it will be a popular item on ravelry!


----------



## janwalla

mom2grif said:


> So pretty, Erica! It's just lovely. Love the color!
> 
> FYI, it's time to get your pattern moved to your paid area! And add it to Ravelry so we can all add our projects there. I was going to, but I didn't want to until you had it for sale. You spent too much time on this to not be making money on it. I think it will be a popular item on ravelry!


 :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:


----------



## ElegantDetails

Erica......it's beautiful! Thanks again for giving us this opportunity. I am learning so much.....only time will tell how WELL I'm learning ..... when its all done


----------



## CarolZ

Erica Patberg said:


> Here are a few pics of my finished sweater. Thought it best to snap a few before I start wearing it every single day!


Erica your sweater turned out beautiful! I hope mine turns out half as well. The color is almost the same as the one I'm making.


----------



## Needleme

Erica Patberg said:


> Here are a few pics of my finished sweater. Thought it best to snap a few before I start wearing it every single day!


Wowsa!!


----------



## beaz

I have finally passed row 4 and am onto row 5. ML stitch, it is picked up 2nd stitch down from needle and is it knit through the back loop? I don't think I did that way before, can't remember. I have frogged so much just to get this far that my frogs have frogs and went to a larger needle. Oops, just the video and think I have it, until the next time!


----------



## beaz

Erica Patberg said:


> Here are a few pics of my finished sweater. Thought it best to snap a few before I start wearing it every single day!


Just beautiful, Erica, you do such fantastic work!


----------



## wanorniron

Well, I finally figured out how to read the cable crossing cheat sheet and have now frogged back to the life line (used for the first time, thank goodness) at the start of Chart B. My cables just didn't look right so will try again with my new knowledge. Like many KPrs I am learning lots of new techniques and would never have attempted this sweater on my own. 
Erica I hope my sweater looks half as good as yours. 
Well time to get another coffee and then start knitting the pile of frogged yard on the floor.


----------



## RobbiD

wanorniron said:


> Well, I finally figured out how to read the cable crossing cheat sheet and have now frogged back to the life line (used for the first time, thank goodness) at the start of Chart B. My cables just didn't look right so will try again with my new knowledge. Like many KPrs I am learning lots of new techniques and would never have attempted this sweater on my own.
> Erica I hope my sweater looks half as good as yours.
> Well time to get another coffee and then start knitting the pile of frogged yard on the floor.


wanorniron, I know this won't help you now, but I had so much to frog on my sweater, I came up with a pretty good idea. As I frogged, I wrapped the yarn onto an empty paper towel cardboard cylinder. I had over 600 yds. of yarn to frog. When I started to knit again, I put the whole thing onto the paper towel holder, and knitted right off of it. I have the type of holder that sits upright on the counter, so I could put it on the table next to me. No tangles, no "travelling" balls of yarn, and no pile of frogged yarn on the floor, table, chair, etc. It worked really good


----------



## debbieh63

This will be my first knitted garment. There are lots of new techniques for me to learn. Thank you to all those that are helping us "beginners". The youtube links have been very helpful. I am halfway through chart A. I am taking it one row at a time. Slow and steady finishes the race :^)


----------



## wanorniron

Thanks RobbiD, I will remember that tip next time as I am sure there will be a next time. DH just said "you have ribbed that sweater out so many times you could have had it knit by now". I told him PERFECTION TAKES TIME. LOL


----------



## Carolinesol

Erica Patberg said:


> Here are a few pics of my finished sweater. Thought it best to snap a few before I start wearing it every single day!


What yarn did you use ? The cables look very clear. Thank you for the lovely pattern..


----------



## Carolinesol

RobbiD said:


> wanorniron, I know this won't help you now, but I had so much to frog on my sweater, I came up with a pretty good idea. As I frogged, I wrapped the yarn onto an empty paper towel cardboard cylinder. I had over 600 yds. of yarn to frog. When I started to knit again, I put the whole thing onto the paper towel holder, and knitted right off of it. I have the type of holder that sits upright on the counter, so I could put it on the table next to me. No tangles, no "travelling" balls of yarn, and no pile of frogged yarn on the floor, table, chair, etc. It worked really good


RobbiD
I wonder if that would work with a ball of yarn. I used 400 grm balls for my cardi.


----------



## Carole-Jayne

mom2grif said:


> So pretty, Erica! It's just lovely. Love the color!
> 
> FYI, it's time to get your pattern moved to your paid area! And add it to Ravelry so we can all add our projects there. I was going to, but I didn't want to until you had it for sale. You spent too much time on this to not be making money on it. I think it will be a popular item on ravelry!


Is the *current* version on site, the final correct one???


----------



## mom2grif

CaROLE-JAYNE said:


> Is the *current* version on site, the final correct one???


I looked at it today and it still had the straight rows at the end of the right top front. So no.


----------



## Erica Patberg

It was Berroco Vintage. It's a wool/acrylic blend. Very nice to work with.


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## wanorniron

Yicks, here I go again. I thought I was doing great, just finished the right shaping and cast on the 19 sts again then discovered I had cabled in the wrong column. Have to do some tinking then I think I will put it aside til I have more sleep. I should have known better than to tackle this with only 4 hrs sleep today as I finished night shift this morning.


----------



## ElegantDetails

mom2grif said:


> I looked at it today and it still had the straight rows at the end of the right top front. So no.


Can you refresh me......what is the deal with the right front? I do seem to remember something about that.......but it wasn't going to apply to me for awhile.......and now that I've made it thru this far...I'll need to know that. Do you happen to remember what page that was downloaded on or at least talked about? Thanks


----------



## peachy51

ElegantDetails said:


> Can you refresh me......what is the deal with the right front? I do seem to remember something about that.......but it wasn't going to apply to me for awhile.......and now that I've made it thru this far...I'll need to know that. Do you happen to remember what page that was downloaded on or at least talked about? Thanks


On Page 6 where it says on the second line "Work Even 3(4,5,6,6,7,8) rows even." Mark that line out and don't work those rows. You go straight to the BO.


----------



## ElegantDetails

peachy51 said:


> On Page 6 where it says on the second line "Work Even 3(4,5,6,6,7,8) rows even." Mark that line out and don't work those rows. You go straight to the BO.


Thanks so much......I really should bookmark the changes and I always think I'm gonna do it....but then I forget and consequently I'm left in the dark  I'll try to do better :thumbup:


----------



## nintendomo

On Page 6, are we not supposed to work any of the rows, even the 3 rows before the parentheses with the extra rows???


----------



## maryannn

Erica, aren't you proud of your sweater? I think it is very beautiful.
Mary Ann


----------



## peachy51

nintendomo said:


> On Page 6, are we not supposed to work any of the rows, even the 3 rows before the parentheses with the extra rows???


You work everything on Page 6 except this part on the second line:

_* "Work 3(4,5,6,6,7,8) rows even."* _


----------



## Marienkaeferoma

Erica, your sweater is beautiful!!

I'm not sure about the horizontal cables across the back. Do you think it would be difficult to knit a plain stockinette back?


----------



## RobbiD

wanorniron said:


> Thanks RobbiD, I will remember that tip next time as I am sure there will be a next time. DH just said "you have ribbed that sweater out so many times you could have had it knit by now". I told him PERFECTION TAKES TIME. LOL


My Honey actually helped me when I had to frog the entire body. My arms were getting tired winding the yarn  He really cringes whenever he sees me pull the needles out. He likes to watch when I knit, and he says he always feels so bad, knowing how much time has gone into the knitting, when I frog something. But I just tell him it's like when he is building something, and it's not the way he wants it, so he tears it apart and starts over. He's a perfectionist, and I try to be one, so we're on the same wavelength when it comes to correcting mistakes.


----------



## RobbiD

Carolinesol said:


> RobbiD
> I wonder if that would work with a ball of yarn. I used 400 grm balls for my cardi.


I don't see why not, Caroline. I like center pull skeins, myself. But if you are using a ball, and just kind of enlarge the center part of it a bit, you could probably just slide it down over the spindle on the paper towel holder. My Honey suggested trying that, too. I already had the center pulled out of a new skein, so I think I will try it on the next one. My skeins aren't center pull, but if you pull out some from the center, you can usually find the end, end the rest comes out just as if it were designed to be center pull. My skeins are only3.5 ounces, so I think that's about 100g. But 3 of them at once was just too much to rewind into one ball.


----------



## RobbiD

wanorniron said:


> Yicks, here I go again. I thought I was doing great, just finished the right shaping and cast on the 19 sts again then discovered I had cabled in the wrong column. Have to do some tinking then I think I will put it aside til I have more sleep. I should have known better than to tackle this with only 4 hrs sleep today as I finished night shift this morning.


Glad I'm not the only one who did that


----------



## Carolinesol

RobbiD said:


> I don't see why not, Caroline. I like center pull skeins, myself. But if you are using a ball, and just kind of enlarge the center part of it a bit, you could probably just slide it down over the spindle on the paper towel holder. My Honey suggested trying that, too. I already had the center pulled out of a new skein, so I think I will try it on the next one. My skeins aren't center pull, but if you pull out some from the center, you can usually find the end, end the rest comes out just as if it were designed to be center pull. My skeins are only3.5 ounces, so I think that's about 100g. But 3 of them at once was just too much to rewind into one ball.


I don't know why our balls of yarn are not made to be centre pull ! Sometimes I get in a right muddle when I try it. 100 grm balls don't seem as bad.
How are you getting on with your cardi ? I have mine on as I type.


----------



## Erica Patberg

Hello! The updated file is available at http://www.cogknits.com You'll find the pattern now has a photo of the cardigan as well as the extra rows removed from the right front. I also made the sleeves a few sts wider, since I found that in my bust size the upper arms were more snug than I prefer. Don't bother reknitting your sleeves if you've already knit them and they fit fine. It's just a small change that you'll notice if you have eagle eyes.

I'll leave it up on the website for another day or so for you guys. But I'm putting the paid pattern up on Ravelry  If you'd be so kind as add your beautiful projects to Ravelry with pics it would be very nice.

Cheers,
Erica

PS. I got my knitting studio! I get the keys on August 12th, and then start the renovation of the barn. I'm going to recycle and reuse as much as I can for building materials to keep costs down and keep the renovation in the spirit of the original building. So Exciting!!!


----------



## Erica Patberg

I've added a buy now button on the website, but for you KPers, just scroll further down, and you'll see the same PDF download button that you used before.


----------



## AverilC

How lovely you have now got your knitting studio. Enjoy :-D 
Perhaps when you have it finished you could let us see some photos of it.

Thank you so much for all your hard work designing this pattern.

Mine is going quite slowly because I have had a family emergency along with preparations for my Mothers' 90th birthday celebrations, but am really enjoying this project and can hardly wait for it to be finished.


----------



## RobbiD

Carolinesol said:


> I don't know why our balls of yarn are not made to be centre pull ! Sometimes I get in a right muddle when I try it. 100 grm balls don't seem as bad.
> How are you getting on with your cardi ? I have mine on as I type.


Caroline, I am so jealous that you are already wearing yours! It turned out beautifully. As for mine, I have got the front top pieces done and steam blocked them. Even though the yarn is acrylic, I thought I would give it a try as they had curled themselves into "straws". I figured if I ruined them, they weren't too much trouble to make again. They turned out pretty good, actually. No curl. The feel of the pieces actually seems silkier. I picked up the back top stitches direct from the body, instead of doing a separate piece, because I HATE seaming :lol: Gonna block the body and back today so I can sew the front top pieces and shoulder seams (left my shoulder stitches live so I can do 3 needle bind-off instead of sewing). Hopefully I can start i-cord sometime today. Did you do top-down sleeves? That's what I am hoping to do, but want to do the i-cord first. So, it's coming along.


----------



## Patchworkcat

Erica Patberg said:


> Hello! The updated file is available at http://www.cogknits.com You'll find the pattern now has a photo of the cardigan as well as the extra rows removed from the right front. I also made the sleeves a few sts wider, since I found that in my bust size the upper arms were more snug than I prefer. Don't bother reknitting your sleeves if you've already knit them and they fit fine. It's just a small change that you'll notice if you have eagle eyes.
> 
> I'll leave it up on the website for another day or so for you guys. But I'm putting the paid pattern up on Ravelry  If you'd be so kind as add your beautiful projects to Ravelry with pics it would be very nice.
> 
> Cheers,
> Erica
> 
> PS. I got my knitting studio! I get the keys on August 12th, and then start the renovation of the barn. I'm going to recycle and reuse as much as I can for building materials to keep costs down and keep the renovation in the spirit of the original building. So Exciting!!!


Congratulations on the studio! It can be a bit daunting to gaze about a new bigger space and try to visualize the best, most efficient way to set it up to suit your needs, but that's also part of the fun. Enjoy the process!

I've downloaded the revised pattern from your website. Unfortunately, my sweater is in time-out while I ponder the difficulties of achieving someone else's gauge and how best to compensate. <sigh>

Jill


----------



## Carolinesol

RobbiD said:


> Caroline, I am so jealous that you are already wearing yours! It turned out beautifully. As for mine, I have got the front top pieces done and steam blocked them. Even though the yarn is acrylic, I thought I would give it a try as they had curled themselves into "straws". I figured if I ruined them, they weren't too much trouble to make again. They turned out pretty good, actually. No curl. The feel of the pieces actually seems silkier. I picked up the back top stitches direct from the body, instead of doing a separate piece, because I HATE seaming :lol: Gonna block the body and back today so I can sew the front top pieces and shoulder seams (left my shoulder stitches live so I can do 3 needle bind-off instead of sewing). Hopefully I can start i-cord sometime today. Did you do top-down sleeves? That's what I am hoping to do, but want to do the i-cord first. So, it's coming along.


Glad yours is coming on ok. Mine is still curling a bit but its great. I did not do top down sleeves, it's not something I have tried. I did pick up top back sts also which I think worked well. All the best with your I cord and look forward to seeing a picture..


----------



## beaz

I am still having trouble with the twisted make 1 increases on rows 5 and 9, etc. I am increasing on the box shown but I am trying to go into the cable below and there isn't a bar there to pick up and I am ending with a small bump of yarn on the WS. This doesn't seem right to me and I can't figure it out so it looks flat on the back side.


----------



## questmiller

ElegantDetails said:


> I have a question about the cables across the back.......did anybody do the back with the cables continuing in the same direction? Instead of crossing them like the pictured shown. If you did, do you continue with the same pattern all the way and do they match up ok on the front?


Hi Elegant,
Yes, I continued with chart B all the way across the back and I'm very happy with how it looks. You can't tell any different on the front. Sorry I didn't respond sooner, life got in the way...


----------



## questmiller

beaz said:


> I am still having trouble with the twisted make 1 increases on rows 5 and 9, etc. I am increasing on the box shown but I am trying to go into the cable below and there isn't a bar there to pick up and I am ending with a small bump of yarn on the WS. This doesn't seem right to me and I can't figure it out so it looks flat on the back side.


Baez, I think if you look closely at the pattern you'll see that it is a ML and not a M 1. 
That means that you knit the stitch marked and then use your left needle to pick up the stitch two rows down and knit into that one as well.
This will give you an increase with a slant to the left.


----------



## gdhavens

The M 1 should be on the WS (even rows) of the piece, in the cable sections, but on the purl side. The ML and MR are done on the RS (odd rows)in the non-cable sections and on the knit side of the piece. The M1 and ML look so similar that it is sometimes confusing.

I hope this helps.


----------



## beaz

questmiller said:


> Baez, I think if you look closely at the pattern you'll see that it is a ML and not a M 1.
> That means that you knit the stitch marked and then use your left needle to pick up the stitch two rows down and knit into that one as well.
> This will give you an increase with a slant to the left.


What I am referring to is the oval thing with the line above it, it says it is a twisted make 1.


----------



## Melodypop

Help, I am on chart A row 9 and I don't understand how I can do the slip 2 sts to cn and hold in front, k2 sts from left needle, k2 sts from cn. and still do the purl 2 that shows up on the chart. please help.

Norma


----------



## nintendomo

Erica, congratulations on your new design shop!! You must be so excited! Please post in-progress pictures! Also thanks for the updated pattern!


----------



## questmiller

beaz said:


> What I am referring to is the oval thing with the line above it, it says it is a twisted make 1.


OK, those are on the even rows (4, 10, 16, 24 etc) so you are working into purl stitches
Here's a good video:


----------



## Carole-Jayne

Erica Patberg said:


> Hello! The updated file is available at http://www.cogknits.com You'll find the pattern now has a photo of the cardigan as well as the extra rows removed from the right front. I also made the sleeves a few sts wider, since I found that in my bust size the upper arms were more snug than I prefer. Don't bother reknitting your sleeves if you've already knit them and they fit fine. It's just a small change that you'll notice if you have eagle eyes.
> 
> I'll leave it up on the website for another day or so for you guys. But I'm putting the paid pattern up on Ravelry  If you'd be so kind as add your beautiful projects to Ravelry with pics it would be very nice.
> 
> Cheers,
> Erica
> 
> PS. I got my knitting studio! I get the keys on August 12th, and then start the renovation of the barn. I'm going to recycle and reuse as much as I can for building materials to keep costs down and keep the renovation in the spirit of the original building. So Exciting!!!


Hi Erica,
I'm anxious to have the final final version - for prosperity - but I've just gone to your website and it's Pay Now only. Same date as you posted. Could you perhaps PM me a final copy? I just want to have a clean copy for future use.
Thanks a bunch
cj


----------



## questmiller

Melodypop said:


> Help, I am on chart A row 9 and I don't understand how I can do the slip 2 sts to cn and hold in front, k2 sts from left needle, k2 sts from cn. and still do the purl 2 that shows up on the chart. please help.
> 
> Norma


It will be the same as you worked on row 3 except now you are working with the increased stitches as well, so you have 5 stitches. You have to be sure to get the symbols matched up. (I think you are looking at the symbol for the next cable that is on row 15). So on row 9 you should actually slip 2 st to cable needle and hold in front, k1 from the left needle and then knit 2 from cn. THEN you purl 2


----------



## questmiller

CaROLE-JAYNE said:


> Hi Erica,
> I'm anxious to have the final final version - for prosperity - but I've just gone to your website and it's Pay Now only. Same date as you posted. Could you perhaps PM me a final copy? I just want to have a clean copy for future use.
> Thanks a bunch
> cj


CJ, scroll further down on the page and you can get the free one...


----------



## Carole-Jayne

CaROLE-JAYNE said:


> Hi Erica,
> I'm anxious to have the final final version - for prosperity - but I've just gone to your website and it's Pay Now only. Same date as you posted. Could you perhaps PM me a final copy? I just want to have a clean copy for future use.
> Thanks a bunch
> cj


UUUUUMMM I see there is a 'download' button - is that the FINAL FINAL VERSION?
Sorry to be pedantic, but I've saved a few versions now and in later years this could present problems for me!
Thanks
cj


----------



## Melodypop

I thought that might be the case, but I was afraid to move on without someone telling me that was the way to do it. I can't thank you enough for clearing it up for me.

Norma



questmiller said:


> It will be the same as you worked on row 3 except now you are working with the increased stitches as well, so you have 5 stitches. You have to be sure to get the symbols matched up. (I think you are looking at the symbol for the next cable that is on row 15). So on row 9 you should actually slip 2 st to cable needle and hold in front, k1 from the left needle and then knit 2 from cn. THEN you purl 2


----------



## janwalla

Erica hope all goes well with your studio. It must be great to have somewhere just for you and your creations!! Its a good job Im not houseproud cos Ive got bags and bags of wool dotted all over the house. MMMMmmm one of these days im going to devote a room just for me!! lol
Thank you again for your talent and kindness! Janice


----------



## beaz

questmiller said:


> OK, those are on the even rows (4, 10, 16, 24 etc) so you are working into purl stitches
> Here's a good video:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Erica instruction: pick up strand between the sts w/L needle from back to frt, P this strand thru the front loop.
> Video states: pick up from frt to back, P thru back loop ??
> Guess it doesn't matter at this point because I have frogged the whole thing. Ugh!!


----------



## questmiller

beaz said:


> Erica instruction: pick up strand between the sts w/L needle from back to frt, P this strand thru the front loop.
> Video states: pick up from frt to back, P thru back loop ??
> Guess it doesn't matter at this point because I have frogged the whole thing. Ugh!!


I didn't realize that Erica had specific instructions for it (so quickly does my mind forget...) Better go with Erica's instr.


----------



## questmiller

Melodypop said:


> I thought that might be the case, but I was afraid to move on without someone telling me that was the way to do it. I can't thank you enough for clearing it up for me.
> 
> Norma


no problemo! "keep on stitching, stitching, stitching..." (sung in your best Dory voice)


----------



## peachy51

beaz said:


> I am still having trouble with the twisted make 1 increases on rows 5 and 9, etc. I am increasing on the box shown but I am trying to go into the cable below and there isn't a bar there to pick up and I am ending with a small bump of yarn on the WS. This doesn't seem right to me and I can't figure it out so it looks flat on the back side.


beaz ... something is off ... all of the twisted purl increases are on even-numbered rows ... so rows 5 and 9 can't have any of them.


----------



## debbieh63

beaz... This video explains the twisted make 1 just as Erica has it written.


----------



## RobbiD

beaz said:


> I am still having trouble with the twisted make 1 increases on rows 5 and 9, etc. I am increasing on the box shown but I am trying to go into the cable below and there isn't a bar there to pick up and I am ending with a small bump of yarn on the WS. This doesn't seem right to me and I can't figure it out so it looks flat on the back side.


Beaz, I had the same problem finding the bar to pick up. That small bump of yarn on the wrong side isn't going to make that much difference. It smooths out a bit after the following rows are knit, but shouldn't be noticeable on the right side. The increase is somewhat masked by the cable cross.


----------



## beaz

peachy51 said:


> beaz ... something is off ... all of the twisted purl increases are on even-numbered rows ... so rows 5 and 9 can't have any of them.


Sorry, it was 4 and 10


----------



## Kissnntell

OH Doris Day -- saw the *stitching, stitching, stitching* & immediately heard in my mine Rawhide!!

stitchin, stitchin, stitchin
keep those needles stitchin
keep those stitches stitchin
GO GIRL!!

oh sorry, got carried away there for a minute lol



questmiller said:


> no problemo! "keep on stitching, stitching, stitching..." (sung in your best Dory voice)


----------



## ElegantDetails

questmiller said:


> Hi Elegant,
> Yes, I continued with chart B all the way across the back and I'm very happy with how it looks. You can't tell any different on the front. Sorry I didn't respond sooner, life got in the way...


That's perfectly OK......I decided to co tinue as the original....and so far I like it fine. I'm almost done the last repeat of C, so I'll be doing the left side shaping very soon. I'm way futher ahead of where I ever thought I would be. This is my first garment where sizing actually matters. Thanks for your helpful tips.


----------



## RobbiD

Kissnntell said:


> OH Doris Day -- saw the *stitching, stitching, stitching* & immediately heard in my mine Rawhide!!
> 
> stitchin, stitchin, stitchin
> keep those needles stitchin
> keep those stitches stitchin
> GO GIRL!!
> 
> oh sorry, got carried away there for a minute lol


LOVE IT!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:


----------



## questmiller

debbieh63 said:


> This will be my first knitted garment. There are lots of new techniques for me to learn. Thank you to all those that are helping us "beginners". The youtube links have been very helpful. I am halfway through chart A. I am taking it one row at a time. Slow and steady finishes the race :^)


You go, girl!


----------



## questmiller

Kissnntell said:


> OH Doris Day -- saw the *stitching, stitching, stitching* & immediately heard in my mine Rawhide!!
> 
> stitchin, stitchin, stitchin
> keep those needles stitchin
> keep those stitches stitchin
> GO GIRL!!
> 
> oh sorry, got carried away there for a minute lol


Too funny! I wonder how many other tunes would work...


----------



## kittys punkin

Erica, congrats on getting your own shop, and thank you once again for writing this pattern for us. Your sweater and those who have finished theirs are beautiful. Hope if I can ever get that far that it turns out to be half as good as yours.


----------



## peachy51

Erica Patberg said:


> Hello! The updated file is available at http://www.cogknits.com You'll find the pattern now has a photo of the cardigan as well as the extra rows removed from the right front. I also made the sleeves a few sts wider, since I found that in my bust size the upper arms were more snug than I prefer. Don't bother reknitting your sleeves if you've already knit them and they fit fine. It's just a small change that you'll notice if you have eagle eyes.
> 
> I'll leave it up on the website for another day or so for you guys. But I'm putting the paid pattern up on Ravelry  If you'd be so kind as add your beautiful projects to Ravelry with pics it would be very nice.
> 
> Cheers,
> Erica
> 
> PS. I got my knitting studio! I get the keys on August 12th, and then start the renovation of the barn. I'm going to recycle and reuse as much as I can for building materials to keep costs down and keep the renovation in the spirit of the original building. So Exciting!!!


CONGRATULATIONS ON YOUR NEW STUDIO!

Tell us about all the wonderful things that will happen in the new studio


----------



## Erica Patberg

For those of you that want to add the Sunburst Cable Cardigan to your Ravelry library, when you log into Ravelry, click on the "my notebook" tab>library. Click on "add items to my library." Enter "sunburst cable" into the search box, then click search. The pattern will come up, and you can add it to you library.

And the link to the pattern on Ravelry is here:

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/sunburst-cable-cardigan

Cheers,
Erica


----------



## murf

Thanks again Erica for the pattern. And to all that has helped me. Im finally on the Back Body.


----------



## Kissnntell

ok i give up!
what page is the final download on? 
i'm finally ready to begin this bad boy cuz my sleeves r getting lonely!!! 
wheeee!


----------



## mom2grif

http://www.cogknits.com/

scroll down below Erica's picture of her sweater and see the download link


----------



## Kissnntell

thx hon
i did have it right but wanted to make sure
sooooooooo i'm off 2 the races!!
c u @the finish line!!!!!!!!!!!



mom2grif said:


> http://www.cogknits.com/
> 
> scroll down below Erica's picture of her sweater and see the download link


----------



## mom2grif

Erica Patberg said:


> For those of you that want to add the Sunburst Cable Cardigan to your Ravelry library, when you log into Ravelry, click on the "my notebook" tab>library. Click on "add items to my library." Enter "sunburst cable" into the search box, then click search. The pattern will come up, and you can add it to you library.
> 
> And the link to the pattern on Ravelry is here:
> 
> http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/sunburst-cable-cardigan
> 
> Cheers,
> Erica


Done! Thank you Erica!


----------



## janwalla

murf said:


> Thanks again Erica for the pattern. And to all that has helped me. Im finally on the Back Body.


Ditto!! yeah! I kept making daft mistakes like not crossing a cable just after the co 19 stitches! had to frog 2 lots of chart B, but hurray! Im on to the chart C. 
***Just to clarify there is only 3 repeats of B for the first size before you start with chart C? because with that "C", you repeat 3 times plus one extra? I keep thinking I might have missed a chart repeat for "B" and should have had 4 before the chart C Hope you understand this gobblegook!! lol


----------



## questmiller

janwalla said:


> Ditto!! yeah! I kept making daft mistakes like not crossing a cable just after the co 19 stitches! had to frog 2 lots of chart B, but hurray! Im on to the chart C.
> ***Just to clarify there is only 3 repeats of B for the first size before you start with chart C? because with that "C", you repeat 3 times plus one extra? I keep thinking I might have missed a chart repeat for "B" and should have had 4 before the chart C Hope you understand this gobblegook!! lol


What size are you making? For size 34, you do 3 repeats (4 total workings of chart B)


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## murf

Janwalla you work 3 repeats chart B then 3 repeats of chart C THEN only 1 thru 8 rows of Chart C. I lease thats how I read it Hope Im helping.


----------



## janwalla

murf said:


> Janwalla you work 3 repeats chart B then 3 repeats of chart C THEN only 1 thru 8 rows of Chart C. I lease thats how I read it Hope Im helping.


Thats the way I read it too, After all the frogging i did before I am hesitant to go for it, I foolishly didn't put in a life line after the B. Im making the smallest one for my daughter to get practice for mine, as ill be knitting lots more for me! lol :lol: :lol:


----------



## janwalla

questmiller said:


> What size are you making? For size 34, you do 3 repeats (4 total workings of chart B)


When you say 4 in total where are you counting it from? Do you count the first one straight from the cast on edge, or do you count for the one under the arm? Ive looked and looked at the pattern and Im terrible with counting rows etc (always forget to mark off). Its just that i know I only did two short rows after the cast on 19 then straight into the first cable twist.i have 3 twists then i start chart C.


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## sewnhair

Hi All!! 

Erica, Thank You sooo much for this gorgeous pattern! Your sweater is beyond words spectacularly beautiful; and congrats on your studio!!

I haven't posted in awhile, but have been following along.... all of the finished sweaters are lovely and the knitting is fantastic!

I did my sleeves first, and have finished chart A, all on #8 needles; but now I'm at a standstill. My stitch gauge is good, but the row count is 24 in 4". I did a swatch on #9s and the rows are correct, but the stitch is off. Also, I really like the look of the #8 pieces and concerned that the 9's might look too loose. My yarn is Deborah Norville's Everyday Worsted anti-pill. I have thought about just continuing through the main body piece and see how that fits. Any suggestions? 
Thanks in Advance

And again, Congratulations to everyone on your marvelous accomplishments!!!


----------



## lulu11

Is anyone else getting little loops on the side when they are doing the front pieces


----------



## Erica Patberg

I got loops too, but they end up on the inside of your seam. Not to worry. You can make them smaller by knitting the first st into the backward loop cast on st on the very tips of your needles.


lulu11 said:


> Is anyone else getting little loops on the side when they are doing the front pieces


----------



## questmiller

janwalla said:


> When you say 4 in total where are you counting it from? Do you count the first one straight from the cast on edge, or do you count for the one under the arm? Ive looked and looked at the pattern and Im terrible with counting rows etc (always forget to mark off). Its just that i know I only did two short rows after the cast on 19 then straight into the first cable twist.i have 3 twists then i start chart C.


After the cast on edge you work the set up rows and then chart A one time then you start in on chart B and the hip and bust shaping rows. When you are done with those you should work chart B an additional three times (without the shaping). Then if you are going to do the reverse cable, you start with chart C. If you want to keep the cable twisting as it is, you do chart B instead.


----------



## RobbiD

Kissnntell said:


> thx hon
> i did have it right but wanted to make sure
> sooooooooo i'm off 2 the races!!
> c u @the finish line!!!!!!!!!!!


I bet you'll get there before me!!!


----------



## RobbiD

sewnhair said:


> Hi All!!
> 
> Erica, Thank You sooo much for this gorgeous pattern! Your sweater is beyond words spectacularly beautiful; and congrats on your studio!!
> 
> I haven't posted in awhile, but have been following along.... all of the finished sweaters are lovely and the knitting is fantastic!
> 
> I did my sleeves first, and have finished chart A, all on #8 needles; but now I'm at a standstill. My stitch gauge is good, but the row count is 24 in 4". I did a swatch on #9s and the rows are correct, but the stitch is off. Also, I really like the look of the #8 pieces and concerned that the 9's might look too loose. My yarn is Deborah Norville's Everyday Worsted anti-pill. I have thought about just continuing through the main body piece and see how that fits. Any suggestions?
> Thanks in Advance
> 
> And again, Congratulations to everyone on your marvelous accomplishments!!!


Your sweater might be a little smaller than the size you are knitting if you have more rows per inch than the gauge calls for. The row count on the body of the sweater is more important than the stitch count. You might compensate for this by knitting the next size larger. I had the opposite problem, my body piece grew, so had to frog the whole piece and start over. It was not my favorite experience.


----------



## Erica Patberg

Your gauge will also change between stockinette and the cables. The cables will draw the fabric in more and make the row gauge slightly longer. As long as your stockinette gauge is on, and you haven't switched needles you should be ok.


sewnhair said:


> Hi All!!
> 
> Erica, Thank You sooo much for this gorgeous pattern! Your sweater is beyond words spectacularly beautiful; and congrats on your studio!!
> 
> I haven't posted in awhile, but have been following along.... all of the finished sweaters are lovely and the knitting is fantastic!
> 
> I did my sleeves first, and have finished chart A, all on #8 needles; but now I'm at a standstill. My stitch gauge is good, but the row count is 24 in 4". I did a swatch on #9s and the rows are correct, but the stitch is off. Also, I really like the look of the #8 pieces and concerned that the 9's might look too loose. My yarn is Deborah Norville's Everyday Worsted anti-pill. I have thought about just continuing through the main body piece and see how that fits. Any suggestions?
> Thanks in Advance
> 
> And again, Congratulations to everyone on your marvelous accomplishments!!!


----------



## toast

I am knitting the size 34. I have just finished the last left hip shaping. Do I now knit rows 1-8 of chart C then start Chart D and if so do the written directions below chart D pertain to these 8 rows. Am I thinking right or am I way of base? Thanks to anyone who can clear this up for me.


----------



## Kissnntell

dont b so sure there, robbiD, i'm taking this one very slloooo & eeeeeasssyy!!
dang if i wanna do the frogs happy dance on this one!! lol



RobbiD said:


> I bet you'll get there before me!!!


----------



## questmiller

toast said:


> I am knitting the size 34. I have just finished the last left hip shaping. Do I now knit rows 1-8 of chart C then start Chart D and if so do the written directions below chart D pertain to these 8 rows. Am I thinking right or am I way of base? Thanks to anyone who can clear this up for me.


According to what I read for size 34, you go straight to chart D. The written directions under chart D is for the last little cable crossings before you bind off.


----------



## janwalla

questmiller said:


> After the cast on edge you work the set up rows and then chart A one time then you start in on chart B and the hip and bust shaping rows. When you are done with those you should work chart B an additional three times (without the shaping). Then if you are going to do the reverse cable, you start with chart C. If you want to keep the cable twisting as it is, you do chart B instead.


Thanks for that Ive done it right! (thank goodness) Im about to start the shaping for the last front.


----------



## wanorniron

toast said:


> I am knitting the size 34. I have just finished the last left hip shaping. Do I now knit rows 1-8 of chart C then start Chart D and if so do the written directions below chart D pertain to these 8 rows. Am I thinking right or am I way of base? Thanks to anyone who can clear this up for me.


The way I read it for that size is that you go straight to Chart D and then do the rows which are similar to the set up rows at the beginning of the body.


----------



## beaz

I have just completed Row 9 of Chart A and I do not think my cable definition is right - I was looking for opinions but now I see an error in the very beginning, so I will not be making the sweater. I have started this sooo many times and it is just too stressful for me. I wish you all the best and look forward to seeing all your beautiful sweaters - thanks for all your help


----------



## gdhavens

This is what my sweater looked like at the beginning. I don't think the small cables show too much until they get further along.


----------



## questmiller

beaz said:


> I have just completed Row 9 of Chart A and I do not think my cable definition is right - I was looking for opinions but now I see an error in the very beginning, so I will not be making the sweater. I have started this sooo many times and it is just too stressful for me. I wish you all the best and look forward to seeing all your beautiful sweaters - thanks for all your help


Baez, I'm sorry to hear that you're ready to throw in the towel. Save the pattern for another day. Maybe after you've done something else you will feel more ready.


----------



## maryannn

gdhavens said:


> This is what my sweater looked like at the beginning. I don't think the small cables show too much until they get further along.


Beautiful knitting, Darla.
You must be almost finished.
MaryAnn


----------



## Carole-Jayne

questmiller said:


> Baez, I'm sorry to hear that you're ready to throw in the towel. Save the pattern for another day. Maybe after you've done something else you will feel more ready.


Baez, I cry with you - I can hear how discouraged you are. this is a unique pattern, full of new things and if you are not *enjoying* making it, then stop. Take a break, try something else. Maybe at some time in the future you will want to tackle it again.
To be honest I always have two things on the go - one thing that I need to concentrate on and something else that I can do without thinking - currently hats for the shelter.
This is just not the right time for this cardigan - but kudos to, my friend, you gave it a jolly good try. Let us know if/when you start again and we will be here to cheer you along.
All the best
CJ


----------



## Needleme

gdhavens said:


> This is what my sweater looked like at the beginning. I don't think the small cables show too much until they get further along.


Oh, my! Gorgeous color and superb stitching! My eyes are drooling!!


----------



## Needleme

beaz said:


> I have just completed Row 9 of Chart A and I do not think my cable definition is right - I was looking for opinions but now I see an error in the very beginning, so I will not be making the sweater. I have started this sooo many times and it is just too stressful for me. I wish you all the best and look forward to seeing all your beautiful sweaters - thanks for all your help


Ooh, I know how you feel! I think it is out of my league too. I thought I was all ready to start chart B and followed chart A to perfection, but I don't seem to have the right number of stitches, so I put it down, refilled (maybe that's part of my problem, hmmm?) my glass of wine, and took out the mindless baby blanket for some easy knitting. I am hoping to hang with it, but am sure I will get stressed and confused along the way! I do understand why you are taking a break! Hugs of sympathy!!


----------



## mom2grif

3 repeats of chart B in the back with 2 more to go. I'm quite happy with it! My Corgi, Clyde seems impressed too!


----------



## questmiller

mom2grif said:


> 3 repeats of chart B in the back with 2 more to go. I'm quite happy with it! My Corgi, Clyde seems impressed too!


Nice work!


----------



## RobbiD

beaz said:


> I have just completed Row 9 of Chart A and I do not think my cable definition is right - I was looking for opinions but now I see an error in the very beginning, so I will not be making the sweater. I have started this sooo many times and it is just too stressful for me. I wish you all the best and look forward to seeing all your beautiful sweaters - thanks for all your help


beaz, I'm so sorry you have decided not to make the sweater at this time.  Believe me, I feel your pain. I have had many times when I just couldn't make heads or tails of a pattern. I have decided that it was too hard, too advanced for me, etc., etc., etc. I did my share of frogging on this pattern. Put it aside for now, and sometime in the future, maybe when you don't feel quite as stressed, or just more comfortable, you will pick it up and try again. There will always be people here to help you along, when you decide to try again. Best wishes to you, and I hope to see some posts of the beautiful projects I am sure you have done, and will do in the future.


----------



## RobbiD

Kissnntell said:


> dont b so sure there, robbiD, i'm taking this one very slloooo & eeeeeasssyy!!
> dang if i wanna do the frogs happy dance on this one!! lol


Kissnntell, not to worry, all the frogs in the pond are over here, with me, doing their happy dance! :lol:


----------



## Oh Donna

Hello everyone,
This is such a challenging roller coaster, isn't it? Alternately frustrating and exhilarating. 

This is over my head too right now, and I'm stuck!

I'm on the last little bust shaping section before I can start chart B....when it says "cast on 19 stitches at the end of the row" well how many stitches should be on my needle once I have cast on those 19?
I have 99.
But if I do the math, with
4 at the decreased edge
80 worth of 5 cables and 5 plain sections with 8 sts in @
20 purls (2each in 10 places btween cables and plains)
3 st on the "starting edge (right hand side of the charts)

then I come up with 107---oh ok there's two more purls, 
so that makes the 109...
How can i be missing ten stitches?

Can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong? When I count what's there, I don't seem to be missing any of those sets of 8 or the 2's in between....or either edge....


----------



## Oh Donna

Mom2grif---what a lovely color!!!!!!


----------



## ElegantDetails

I just love the color of your sweater....you've done a beautiful job!!
Here's mine....I have done all the repeats of both B & C plus the 8 rows of the last C....getting ready to start the hip and busy shapings. I can't believe it this far.


----------



## mom2grif

Beautiful, Elegant!


----------



## Needleme

ElegantDetails said:


> I just love the color of your sweater....you've done a beautiful job!!
> Here's mine....I have done all the repeats of both B & C plus the 8 rows of the last C....getting ready to start the hip and busy shapings. I can't believe it this far.


Wow, this is gorgeous! Love seeing these amazing colors and amazing skills!!
Thanks for sharing and inspiring!!


----------



## Oh Donna

Now wait---there's only 4 plain sections in between the cables--and that's how many i have---back to my calculator!
Is it possible that I'm ok with my 99 stitches at this point? argh!


----------



## questmiller

Oh Donna said:


> Hello everyone,
> This is such a challenging roller coaster, isn't it? Alternately frustrating and exhilarating.
> 
> This is over my head too right now, and I'm stuck!
> 
> I'm on the last little bust shaping section before I can start chart B....when it says "cast on 19 stitches at the end of the row" well how many stitches should be on my needle once I have cast on those 19?
> I have 99.
> But if I do the math, with
> 4 at the decreased edge
> 80 worth of 5 cables and 5 plain sections with 8 sts in @
> 20 purls (2each in 10 places btween cables and plains)
> 3 st on the "starting edge (right hand side of the charts)
> 
> then I come up with 107---oh ok there's two more purls,
> so that makes the 109...
> How can i be missing ten stitches?
> 
> Can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong? When I count what's there, I don't seem to be missing any of those sets of 8 or the 2's in between....or either edge....


I'm not going to count your stitches, but ask you if your cable pattern and shaping rows worked up to this point? If so, then don't psych yourself out. When I got to the CO 19 stitch part, I put a removable marker on my needle and then did the CO -- that way I could easily count the 19 and make sure I was right there.


----------



## ElegantDetails

Thanks for the kudos.....I really appreciate it.......this has been quite a challenge


----------



## Erica Patberg

Have you thought about duplicate stitch over top of the cable to fix the error?


----------



## Kissnntell

bummer, beaz!!
i've never been afraid of cables & find them fun, but this entire project skeers the b-j outa me, sooooo...
i'm taking it just 2 rows @a time -- 1 across & 1 back, then put it down for a spell
will take longer, but i'm not getting frustrated w/so much going on @once
perhaps a slow-go like this may help u out?
i surely do hate seeing u run away from something i'm sure u can accomplish!!
think re: it
dont let IT get the best of YOU...YOU get the best of IT!!



beaz said:


> I have just completed Row 9 of Chart A and I do not think my cable definition is right - I was looking for opinions but now I see an error in the very beginning, so I will not be making the sweater. I have started this sooo many times and it is just too stressful for me. I wish you all the best and look forward to seeing all your beautiful sweaters - thanks for all your help


----------



## peachy51

I have finished everything except the sleeves which I am knitting into the sweater from the top down. (And I have laid it aside for a little bit because I have a wedding afgan I need to get finished before May 18th.)

My best advice to those just starting is to just take it one stitch at a time and trust the pattern. The few questions I had at the beginning were mainly to clarify that I was reading it the way it was intended and I spent way too much time overthinking it.

Looking back, now that the body is finished, shoulders sewn together and i-cord on, I can see how well written the pattern is and I can't say enough that the Cable Cheat Sheet is pure genius! :mrgreen:


----------



## Carolinesol

ElegantDetails said:


> I just love the color of your sweater....you've done a beautiful job!!
> Here's mine....I have done all the repeats of both B & C plus the 8 rows of the last C....getting ready to start the hip and busy shapings. I can't believe it this far.


Love this colour. Well done.


----------



## Carolinesol

gdhavens said:


> This is what my sweater looked like at the beginning. I don't think the small cables show too much until they get further along.


Very nice work. well done.


----------



## Carolinesol

beaz said:


> I have just completed Row 9 of Chart A and I do not think my cable definition is right - I was looking for opinions but now I see an error in the very beginning, so I will not be making the sweater. I have started this sooo many times and it is just too stressful for me. I wish you all the best and look forward to seeing all your beautiful sweaters - thanks for all your help


 :-( never mind. Maybe try another time ..


----------



## RobbiD

Oh Donna said:


> Hello everyone,
> This is such a challenging roller coaster, isn't it? Alternately frustrating and exhilarating.
> 
> This is over my head too right now, and I'm stuck!
> 
> I'm on the last little bust shaping section before I can start chart B....when it says "cast on 19 stitches at the end of the row" well how many stitches should be on my needle once I have cast on those 19?
> I have 99.
> But if I do the math, with
> 4 at the decreased edge
> 80 worth of 5 cables and 5 plain sections with 8 sts in @
> 20 purls (2each in 10 places btween cables and plains)
> 3 st on the "starting edge (right hand side of the charts)
> 
> then I come up with 107---oh ok there's two more purls,
> so that makes the 109...
> How can i be missing ten stitches?
> 
> Can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong? When I count what's there, I don't seem to be missing any of those sets of 8 or the 2's in between....or either edge....


Oh Donna, Chart B takes 99 stitches, plus any extra stitches you may have added to the stockinette border (I added 6 for a little extra length). 3 edge sts, 4 repeats of the chart in the red box=20 sts each repeat, 16 sts to the left of the pattern repeat=3+80+16=99. If you didn't add any extra stitches, it sounds like you stitch count is right on the money.


----------



## RobbiD

ElegantDetails said:


> I just love the color of your sweater....you've done a beautiful job!!
> Here's mine....I have done all the repeats of both B & C plus the 8 rows of the last C....getting ready to start the hip and busy shapings. I can't believe it this far.


ElegantDetails and Susan, your sweaters are looking spectacular! I love both colors. I think I may just make another, in another color. Providing, of course, that I finish THIS one. Then I'm gonna take a nice long break before I try it again :lol:


----------



## RobbiD

Oh Donna said:


> Now wait---there's only 4 plain sections in between the cables--and that's how many i have---back to my calculator!
> Is it possible that I'm ok with my 99 stitches at this point? argh!


99 is the correct number to have Donna. See my previous post to you.


----------



## RobbiD

peachy51 said:


> I have finished everything except the sleeves which I am knitting into the sweater from the top down. (And I have laid it aside for a little bit because I have a wedding afgan I need to get finished before May 18th.)
> 
> My best advice to those just starting is to just take it one stitch at a time and trust the pattern. The few questions I had at the beginning were mainly to clarify that I was reading it the way it was intended and I spent way too much time overthinking it.
> 
> Looking back, now that the body is finished, shoulders sewn together and i-cord on, I can see how well written the pattern is and I can't say enough that the Cable Cheat Sheet is pure genius! :mrgreen:


Hi Peachy, I have been wondering how your sleeves are coming. I just started on mine last night and am not sure about the number of stitches I picked up around the armhole edge. It seems like my armholes are HUGE :shock: . I'm thinking I have had another visit from the "amazing growing sweater" gremlin.  
Hope you get your afghan done in time.


----------



## Jill2

RobbiD said:


> Hi Peachy, I have been wondering how your sleeves are coming. I just started on mine last night and am not sure about the number of stitches I picked up around the armhole edge. It seems like my armholes are HUGE :shock: . I'm thinking I have had another visit from the "amazing growing sweater" gremlin.
> Hope you get your afghan done in time.


I followed Paula Wards video and picked up 69 stitches around the armhole edge.


----------



## gdhavens

Thanks for the compliments. Yes, I am getting along with my sweater. I had the sleeves made, but I didn't think they were going to be large enough, so am trying the top down knit in sleeves. This whole sweater has been a trial and error project, but I am determined to finish it and possibly/probably make another in a better quality yarn.

To all that have posted pictures of your sweaters, there are so many varieties of sizes and colors and they are all GREAT! It looks like this KAL is working, lots of help and support. And the variety of colors is fun to see.

The pattern is really well written. Just don't over-think it; and work it one (or two) rows at a time. Try not to think "this can't be right because" because it probably is right, just not what you were expecting.


----------



## catlover1960

Thanks to all who posted pictures of their sweater in progress. Beautiful work on each sweater and gorgeous colors. I was thinking that there was a problem with mine as it was not laying as I thought it should. After looking at everyone's works in progress, I see that mine looks the same. I will try to post a picture later today. I am making this one for my 16 year old niece. My yarn has arrived so will make mine as soon as I finish this one.


----------



## Kissnntell

well, kids i'm now on Row 17 of Chart A & i have not killed anything or anybody yet!
turns out easier than i ever imagined
was doing just 2 rows @a time, but now see how it's working up so doing a *block* @a time ... the 4 regular rows + cable & inc rows, then put it down for a bit
can i ever hope the rest will go this smoothly??? lol not even gonna think that way, for sure!
u all were right, DONT over think it & just do one stitch/row @a time & it comes right together
AND it's not *growing* on me!! (yet!! sshhhh)


----------



## RobbiD

Jill2 said:


> I followed Paula Wards video and picked up 69 stitches around the armhole edge.


Jill, thank you so much! Maybe the "growing gremlin" didn't reappear after all! I am using the same video, but I thought the 70sts I came up with would make the sleeve way to big. I guess that's what I get for thinking. :roll:

Kissnntell, the frogs are still doing the happy dance in my pond :lol: Gonna be frogging my sleeve. Thank goodness I hadn't gotten too far.


----------



## RobbiD

Kissnntell said:


> well, kids i'm now on Row 17 of Chart A & i have not killed anything or anybody yet!
> turns out easier than i ever imagined
> was doing just 2 rows @a time, but now see how it's working up so doing a *block* @a time ... the 4 regular rows + cable & inc rows, then put it down for a bit
> can i ever hope the rest will go this smoothly??? lol not even gonna think that way, for sure!
> u all were right, DONT over think it & just do one stitch/row @a time & it comes right together
> AND it's not *growing* on me!! (yet!! sshhhh)


I'm glad it's going so well for you. I haven't killed anyone yet, either, but have contemplated becoming an ax murderer! :lol:


----------



## Oh Donna

to RobbiD and questmiller,
Thankyou thankyou. I went back after my query and quietly counted and looked again, and suspected that my 99 stitches was right, so I put in a lifeline, took a breath, and tentatively put in those last two rows and two rows of the plain chart B (Yea! I'm into the next section, so cool to have gotten this far!)
and it looks right AND now that I have your ---validation?----I'm good to carry on.
Thank you again, and to everybody. So often when one of you asks a question, it becomes MY question when I get to that spot, and I remember that someone already dealt with it, and I go back and look for the answer.
There is NO WAY I could be making this sweater without being a part of this KAL, without all of your friendship and help---it's like we're all little invisible angels to each other.
(Invisible except for Darla, who turned out to be my up-the-road neighbor, and who in fact is the reason I am even participating, because I never saw the original thread....when we found out we both "attend" knitting paradise, she told me about it and whipped out her start on it....and i was hooked! she, and questmiller, who talked me thru the loading of the pattern into an app on the i-pad, which makes the chart-reading part easier and fun...)

New day---new rows in a new section, soon to be halfway around, with my invisible angel friends---life is good!


----------



## Oh Donna

PS---are our sweaters half finished, or half unfinished, ha ha


----------



## mlw2504

To quest miller

I would like info on the app for the IPad.


----------



## Carolinesol

mlw2504 said:


> To quest miller
> 
> I would like info on the app for the IPad.


I would be interested in that also please.


----------



## maryannn

mlw2504 said:


> To quest miller
> 
> I would like info on the app for the IPad.


I put my pattern on eBooks. I tapped the upper right of the pattern and a lot of options came up. One was eBook. It sure if great to make the charts larger.
Mary Ann


----------



## maryannn

Oh Donna said:


> to RobbiD and questmiller,
> Thankyou thankyou. I went back after my query and quietly counted and looked again, and suspected that my 99 stitches was right, so I put in a lifeline, took a breath, and tentatively put in those last two rows and two rows of the plain chart B (Yea! I'm into the next section, so cool to have gotten this far!)
> and it looks right AND now that I have your ---validation?----I'm good to carry on.
> Thank you again, and to everybody. So often when one of you asks a question, it becomes MY question when I get to that spot, and I remember that someone already dealt with it, and I go back and look for the answer.
> There is NO WAY I could be making this sweater without being a part of this KAL, without all of your friendship and help---it's like we're all little invisible angels to each other.
> (Invisible except for Darla, who turned out to be my up-the-road neighbor, and who in fact is the reason I am even participating, because I never saw the original thread....when we found out we both "attend" knitting paradise, she told me about it and whipped out her start on it....and i was hooked! she, and questmiller, who talked me thru the loading of the pattern into an app on the i-pad, which makes the chart-reading part easier and fun...)
> 
> New day---new rows in a new section, soon to be halfway around, with my invisible angel friends---life is good!


Donna, Darla helped me also. She is a gem. She sent me a pm and offered to help. Now I am starting to do the left bust and hip shaping.
Can't seem to find the time to knit.
Mary Ann


----------



## charlenekbenton

I store all my patterns on an IPad app called GOODREADER it's the best! Iam taking a break on my sweater because I have a gift I need to finish before leaving for vaca May 22... So many WIP, so little time....


----------



## RobbiD

Oh Donna said:


> to RobbiD and questmiller,
> Thankyou thankyou. I went back after my query and quietly counted and looked again, and suspected that my 99 stitches was right, so I put in a lifeline, took a breath, and tentatively put in those last two rows and two rows of the plain chart B (Yea! I'm into the next section, so cool to have gotten this far!)
> and it looks right AND now that I have your ---validation?----I'm good to carry on.
> Thank you again, and to everybody. So often when one of you asks a question, it becomes MY question when I get to that spot, and I remember that someone already dealt with it, and I go back and look for the answer.
> There is NO WAY I could be making this sweater without being a part of this KAL, without all of your friendship and help---it's like we're all little invisible angels to each other.
> (Invisible except for Darla, who turned out to be my up-the-road neighbor, and who in fact is the reason I am even participating, because I never saw the original thread....when we found out we both "attend" knitting paradise, she told me about it and whipped out her start on it....and i was hooked! she, and questmiller, who talked me thru the loading of the pattern into an app on the i-pad, which makes the chart-reading part easier and fun...)
> 
> New day---new rows in a new section, soon to be halfway around, with my invisible angel friends---life is good!


Awww! You're so sweet but it was nuttin'.  
This is the first KAL I have ever taken part in, and it has been a really WONDERFUL experience. I would probably do one again, but would be afraid it wouldn't be as great. The people who have participated, and helped us ALL along, have really made it something special. Maybe it's just Karma? Carole looking for the pattern that started it all, Erica being gracious enough to share her talent, all of us anxiously awaiting the pattern? Maybe the stars were all aligned just in the right way?


----------



## wanorniron

Yippee. I have finished the main section. I knitted, frogged, tinked and reknitted so many times I could have finished 3 sweaters by now. I was on Chart D when I realized that instead of increasing to 14sts I had increased to 16sts, (didn't count the 2sts before the marker). I frogged it right back to the armhole cast on and did it again, silly me didn't have a life line in that section. 

Now onward to the next obstacle/challenge.


----------



## gdhavens

I am a "glass half full" kind of girl, so my sweater is definitely half finished (really further along, but you know what I mean. LOL!)

I have had fun with this, and enjoy reading all the posts, on all the threads that have been started. I hope all others are having as much fun as I am.

Isn't it amazing how quickly there are answers posted to every question? A great beginning KAL.


----------



## mom2grif

gdhavens said:


> I am a "glass half full" kind of girl, so my sweater is definitely half finished (really further along, but you know what I mean. LOL!)
> 
> I have had fun with this, and enjoy reading all the posts, on all the threads that have been started. I hope all others are having as much fun as I am.
> 
> Isn't it amazing how quickly there are answers posted to every question? A great beginning KAL.


Are there some threads I don't know about?


----------



## gdhavens

There was the original thread, "Does anyone recognize this". Then this one, then another one "Erica's Sunburst Cable sweater. I tend to check all of them on occasion. 

This one has the most posts about the actual knitting of this sweater. 

Every once in awhile, I come across post referring to earlier posts on different subjects and I wonder where I was when that was posted. Also, even though I don't change my settings, I sometimes don't get notifications.


----------



## questmiller

Oh Donna said:


> to RobbiD and questmiller,
> Thankyou thankyou. I went back after my query and quietly counted and looked again, and suspected that my 99 stitches was right, so I put in a lifeline, took a breath, and tentatively put in those last two rows and two rows of the plain chart B (Yea! I'm into the next section, so cool to have gotten this far!)
> and it looks right AND now that I have your ---validation?----I'm good to carry on.
> Thank you again, and to everybody. So often when one of you asks a question, it becomes MY question when I get to that spot, and I remember that someone already dealt with it, and I go back and look for the answer.
> There is NO WAY I could be making this sweater without being a part of this KAL, without all of your friendship and help---it's like we're all little invisible angels to each other.
> (Invisible except for Darla, who turned out to be my up-the-road neighbor, and who in fact is the reason I am even participating, because I never saw the original thread....when we found out we both "attend" knitting paradise, she told me about it and whipped out her start on it....and i was hooked! she, and questmiller, who talked me thru the loading of the pattern into an app on the i-pad, which makes the chart-reading part easier and fun...)
> 
> New day---new rows in a new section, soon to be halfway around, with my invisible angel friends---life is good!


I'm so glad that things are working out for your pattern. 
I find that I need to NOT wear my sweater so much -- or to figure out if where I wore it yesterday has anyone who I may see tomorrow! Maybe I need it in another color...


----------



## questmiller

mlw2504 said:


> To quest miller
> 
> I would like info on the app for the IPad.


it's called KnitCompanion and I absolutely love it! You can do a free trial download and then if you like it, pay $15 (or so). They have a great support group at Ravelry, but I could also do a phone chat (right Donna?) if you want.


----------



## janwalla

beaz said:


> I have just completed Row 9 of Chart A and I do not think my cable definition is right - I was looking for opinions but now I see an error in the very beginning, so I will not be making the sweater. I have started this sooo many times and it is just too stressful for me. I wish you all the best and look forward to seeing all your beautiful sweaters - thanks for all your help


Beaz that is a shame, you have tried so hard! Don't worry! if your mistake is right at the beginning could a button not hide it later? I'm sure with all the frogging and re-doing you will know exactly what to do now. I would just go ahead a try and knit it, don't worry, if it turns out ok great, if not well you have learned lots of good things and the next one you do will be perfect. I frogged lots at the beginning too with the increases etc but I just did what i was comfortable with, and it is turning out ok, All I can suggest is trust the pattern, increase in whichever way you are good with, as long as you do them when stated. The only counting i did too was when it mentions 109 stitches . I didn't count anything else. Whatever you decide to do Beaz we will be here for you when you decide to give it another go. The others are right though if you are really not enjoying yourself stop. Knitting is supposed to be therapeutic and enjoyable!


----------



## catlover1960

Here is a picture of my sweater in progress. I'm not happy with the center cable in a couple of spots. Hope blocking will take care of those areas. About to start the left bust and hip shaping.


----------



## peachy51

RobbiD said:


> Hi Peachy, I have been wondering how your sleeves are coming. I just started on mine last night and am not sure about the number of stitches I picked up around the armhole edge. It seems like my armholes are HUGE :shock: . I'm thinking I have had another visit from the "amazing growing sweater" gremlin.
> Hope you get your afghan done in time.


I thought my armholes looked huge too, but I used Paula Ward's method and picked up 68 stitches. Now I'm working on decreasing them to get down to the number of stitches Erica has at the bottom. It's kind of boring knitting after doing the body :mrgreen:


----------



## maryannn

questmiller said:


> it's called KnitCompanion and I absolutely love it! You can do a free trial download and then if you like it, pay $15 (or so). They have a great support group at Ravelry, but I could also do a phone chat (right Donna?) if you want.


I also have KnitCompanion but decided to wait til the cable sweater was finished before I attempted to learn the KnitCompanion.
I hear it is a great program.
Mary Ann


----------



## debbieh63

I was starting row 41 on chart A when what did me eyes see? Oh no, a dropped stitch way back, within the first few rows. I didn't frog, just got another ball of yarn and needles and started again, and again, and again. I could not seem to get past the set up rows. I must have knitted them 20 times before I got it like I wanted. I am hoping to get finished with chart A by Friday and start the next challenge.
Any advice on the short row shaping? I have never done short rows. I had never done cables before either but they are simple, now that I've done them in chart A.


----------



## Kissnntell

havent done shorties myself either, but Craftsy has a free class on them
i'll go watch all that when i get there
am starting row 25 on Chart A in a few minutes (after i'm done eating)


----------



## Oh Donna

questmiller said:


> it's called KnitCompanion and I absolutely love it! You can do a free trial download and then if you like it, pay $15 (or so). They have a great support group at Ravelry, but I could also do a phone chat (right Donna?) if you want.


YES! questmiller had a beautiful laid-back and logical and clear way of taking me step by step thru that KnitCompanion app!!
We spent 1 1/2 hours on the phone dealing with most of it, and then used the excuse that we weren't quite finished, to do it again the next day ( but we spent most of that call comparing interests and hobbies, and musing over the fact that last summer I passed thru her town, with in a couple miles of her house, and went into one of her yarn shops--who knows, we could have passed each other on the street!)(or been in the yarn shop together!)
Anyway, it's a very nice app,and questmiller is a very good explainer, and thank you you guys who mentioned the other ones--they sound worth exploring too.


----------



## RobbiD

debbieh63 said:


> I was starting row 41 on chart A when what did me eyes see? Oh no, a dropped stitch way back, within the first few rows. I didn't frog, just got another ball of yarn and needles and started again, and again, and again. I could not seem to get past the set up rows. I must have knitted them 20 times before I got it like I wanted. I am hoping to get finished with chart A by Friday and start the next challenge.
> Any advice on the short row shaping? I have never done short rows. I had never done cables before either but they are simple, now that I've done them in chart A.


Debbie, you will get as many responses on short rows, as there are people in this KAL :lol: . Personally, I like the German short row, others like the Japanese short row, still others the wrap and turn, or the "Sweet tomato heel" short rows. You tube has a great many techniques, but my best advice is to try one that looks _easy_ to you, and give it a try. We all knit differently, and what is easy for one, is difficult for another. As for the dropped stitch you discovered rows and rows before.... I did a 3 needle bind off for the shoulders, thinking I would save myself some seeming, and what do I discover but a couple of stitches I dropped while doing the bind off. Go figure. I found them when starting the top down sleeves (which I am frogging and starting over  ). But I think this has been a learning experience for many of us, and it is so much better knowing that there are others that share our frustrations, misunderstandings, and general "WTH???" and "huh???" moments. And then those oh so glorious "light bulb" moments when something finally clicks. That is what is making this KAL a great experience for me. The comradery is amazing.


----------



## RobbiD

Kissnntell said:


> havent done shorties myself either, but Craftsy has a free class on them
> i'll go watch all that when i get there
> am starting row 25 on Chart A in a few minutes (after i'm done eating)


What, Kissnntell, you can't eat and knit at the same time?? :lol: :lol: :lol:

Just kidding! I can't go to bed t night until I have checked to see if there are any new posts on this thread. How addicted is that? :roll:


----------



## Oh Donna

The comradery is amazing.[/quote]

That's for sure.  :thumbup: :-D 
I've never done a kal before, but I would do one again.


----------



## Erica Patberg

It is really impressive that these are the first cables yoy've ever knit! Amazing!!!



debbieh63 said:


> I was starting row 41 on chart A when what did me eyes see? Oh no, a dropped stitch way back, within the first few rows. I didn't frog, just got another ball of yarn and needles and started again, and again, and again. I could not seem to get past the set up rows. I must have knitted them 20 times before I got it like I wanted. I am hoping to get finished with chart A by Friday and start the next challenge.
> Any advice on the short row shaping? I have never done short rows. I had never done cables before either but they are simple, now that I've done them in chart A.


----------



## questmiller

maryannn said:


> I also have KnitCompanion but decided to wait til the cable sweater was finished before I attempted to learn the KnitCompanion.
> I hear it is a great program.
> Mary Ann


It may be a bit daunting at first. Let me know if you want any tips.


----------



## Kissnntell

oh i do stuff all the time while eating...just take a look @my keyboard!!! THAT'S y i'm waiting till done so my sweater doesnt look like THAT!! rofl



RobbiD said:


> What, Kissnntell, you can't eat and knit at the same time?? :lol: :lol: :lol:
> 
> Just kidding! I can't go to bed t night until I have checked to see if there are any new posts on this thread. How addicted is that? :roll:


----------



## maryannn

questmiller said:


> It may be a bit daunting at first. Let me know if you want any tips.


Thank you so much, Questmiller. When the time is right, I will surely pm you.
Mary Ann


----------



## nintendomo

maryannn said:


> I also have KnitCompanion but decided to wait til the cable sweater was finished before I attempted to learn the KnitCompanion.
> I hear it is a great program.
> Mary Ann


I, too, have Knit Companion, and I, too, decided to wait. I did check the Ravelry Group on KC, and I think it looks wonderful. I kind of figured some of it out before the pattern came out, but I didn't want to wait!!!!


----------



## wanorniron

Helppppp!!! I need some clarification for the Upper Back shoulder shaping. "Work 4(4,5,6,7,7)pairs of short rows of 4sts over the left and rightmost 16(16,20,24,28,28)sts." Do I knit to the last 4sts of the row and then turn back and purl to the last 4 st. Then on next row knit to last 8sts and turn back and purl to last 8sts etc. Also I noticed some of the brackets only contain 5 different sizes and not 6. Any help would be appreciated. Thanx.


----------



## Jill2

Yes, you've got it right.
As far as the 5/6 sizes within the brackets....I haven't a clue....didn't notice that when I was working on mine.


----------



## wanorniron

Thank you Jill2. It took me a while to figure it out and I wasn't sure if I had it correct.


----------



## Jill2

wanorniron said:


> Thank you Jill2. It took me a while to figure it out and I wasn't sure if I had it correct.


You're welcome!
You're not alone.....several pages ago we had a little discussion about the very same thing.

Onward! 
:thumbup:


----------



## wanorniron

Sorry, I must have missed that discussion, but thanx again. Just have the sleeves to do and of course the I-cord which I have never done before. This sweater has certainly been a learning experience and I am so thankful for all the help.


----------



## lulu11

How many people finished the sweater and did they show a picture


----------



## questmiller

lulu11 said:


> How many people finished the sweater and did they show a picture


Check out the pictures section.


----------



## Kissnntell

where is that?
is it here on this thread or a separate one?



questmiller said:


> Check out the pictures section.


----------



## RobbiD

wanorniron said:


> Sorry, I must have missed that discussion, but thanx again. Just have the sleeves to do and of course the I-cord which I have never done before. This sweater has certainly been a learning experience and I am so thankful for all the help.


wanomiron, I did the i-cord before the sleeves. I never did I cord before either. 



. I used this video. It seemed easier than the method in the pattern ( sorry, Erica). I left the sleeves for last because I am trying top down sleeves. I thought the i-cord woud be a little easier without the sleeves in the way.


----------



## janwalla

Kissnntell said:


> havent done shorties myself either, but Craftsy has a free class on them
> i'll go watch all that when i get there
> am starting row 25 on Chart A in a few minutes (after i'm done eating)


Ive tried most of the short row techniques through craftsy workshop. But I much prefer the German one really easy and no wrapping stitches or placing markers. Here is the YouTube link.


----------



## mom2grif

having done wrap and turn in the past and now German Short rows now. I have to say German Short row is definitely the way to go! So much quicker and look better!


----------



## Kissnntell

thanks! all these easier tips r just what this ol'lady ordered!
anything easier & quicker 2 get the job done
like Dad always said, there's always a better way!!
am on R 39 of Ct A so in a few min will have that out of the way
any earth shattering things i should b aware of re: Chart B?
the stitch/day is 2nite & i think it's short rows, or @least i hope it is


----------



## mom2grif

Kissnntell, what size are you making? Chart B is just straight forward, no increases, decreases... Every 9th row do a cable crossing across the work. But your size determines how many, if any, chart B's you do. You may start right in the hip and bust shaping.

The one sentence above chart B instructs you on how many of chart B you will do.


----------



## Kissnntell

size 34, smallest
good 2 hear i can just slide thru it
thx!!


----------



## mom2grif

Yep, so you can move right on to hip shaping. As you start to read through the directions and start knitting, take a look at the cheat sheet. It wasn't until I started the shaping did I GET the cheat sheet.


----------



## Kissnntell

shux i havent even looked @that yet
havent needed it
ok will study on that b4 i trudge on lol
thx


----------



## mom2grif

I wouldn't spend too much time studying it ahead, it might just confuse you like it has so many including me. But once you see what the short rows are doing, it should make sense to you.


----------



## Kissnntell

okie doke
thx


----------



## lulu11

questmiller said:


> Check out the pictures section.


where is the picture section?


----------



## RobbiD

Kissnntell said:


> okie doke
> thx


Like Susan said, the cheat sheet was like a different language to me, until I started doing the shapings. What helped me, was to put the cheat sheet above my knitting, laid on the table, needles topmost, and picturing the cheat sheet as an extension of what I had already knitted. :idea: moment! Just be extra careful when doing the cables after you do the armhole bind off and then again when you do the cast on at the end of the armhole. That's where I got "lost" and crossed the wrong group of stitches  .


----------



## Carolinesol

lulu11 said:


> where is the picture section?


Hi. I thought it was under Ericas sunburst pattern, but only Questmiller and mine on there.... So not sure, sorry.


----------



## mom2grif

Are there any more finished ones? Maybe no one else has posted their pictures.


----------



## wanorniron

Am I missing something? The sleeve increases don't add up. I am knitting the sleeves for size 42 so they aren't too tight. Using Erica's instructions I cast on 40sts.
Initial increase 2sts = 42sts
2 every 6th row 7 more times - 14sts = 56
2 every 8th row 5 times - 10 = 66
2 every 10th row 0 times - 0

I should have 70sts on the needle after all the increases but I count only 66. Guess I will do another couple of increases to make 70sts.

Any thoughts? I know many are doing the top down version but I have never done sleeves that way and am afraid of botching it.


----------



## questmiller

Carolinesol said:


> Hi. I thought it was under Ericas sunburst pattern, but only Questmiller and mine on there.... So not sure, sorry.


Perhaps the others are shy...I was told to open a thread in pictures and so of course I did what I was told... :lol: 
http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-162285-1.html


----------



## lulu11

questmiller said:


> Perhaps the others are shy...I was told to open a thread in pictures and so of course I did what I was told... :lol:
> http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-162285-1.html


iam at the point of blocking ,tonight i will sew it together then do the i_cord then i will post it where you started a theard thanks


----------



## wanorniron

RobbiD said:


> wanomiron, I did the i-cord before the sleeves. I never did I cord before either.
> 
> 
> 
> . I used this video. It seemed easier than the method in the pattern ( sorry, Erica). I left the sleeves for last because I am trying top down sleeves. I thought the i-cord woud be a little easier without the sleeves in the way.


RobbiD. Thank you for this video it will help me a lot with the I-cord which I have been dreading. Is there a video for the top down sleeves?


----------



## questmiller

lulu11 said:


> iam at the point of blocking ,tonight i will sew it together then do the i_cord then i will post it where you started a theard thanks


I look forward to seeing it!


----------



## janwalla

Kissnntell said:


> size 34, smallest
> good 2 hear i can just slide thru it
> thx!!


Just another quick tip, some brilliant lady suggested when you look to see which cable is the next one to cross on the cheat sheet, put in a marker or cable needle so that you always know which is the next one to do cos of your marker. I found it invaluable!!


----------



## Kissnntell

good tip
thx hon!!


----------



## pinsandneedles

wanorniron said:


> Am I missing something? The sleeve increases don't add up. I am knitting the sleeves for size 42 so they aren't too tight. Using Erica's instructions I cast on 40sts.
> Initial increase 2sts = 42sts
> 2 every 6th row 7 more times - 14sts = 56
> 2 every 8th row 5 times - 10 = 66
> 2 every 10th row 0 times - 0
> 
> I should have 70sts on the needle after all the increases but I count only 66. Guess I will do another couple of increases to make 70sts.
> 
> Any thoughts? I know many are doing the top down version but I have never done sleeves that way and am afraid of botching it.


I'm with you on this one, I pm'd
Erica but haven't heard back yet


----------



## RobbiD

wanorniron said:


> RobbiD. Thank you for this video it will help me a lot with the I-cord which I have been dreading. Is there a video for the top down sleeves?






There are several parts to this video, but it was a really helpful one. The 3rd part, the one that explains how to do the decreases is not labeled as a top down sleeve tutorial part. I'm not quite sure, but I think it was called knitting a tapered sleeve, or something similar.

Found it. 



This is also a multi-part tutorial.


----------



## wanorniron

Thanks Pinsandneedles, I am glad someone else noticed this, I thought I was reading the instructions incorrectly. I will work another couple of increases to get to 70sts.


----------



## RobbiD

wanorniron said:


> Am I missing something? The sleeve increases don't add up. I am knitting the sleeves for size 42 so they aren't too tight. Using Erica's instructions I cast on 40sts.
> Initial increase 2sts = 42sts
> 2 every 6th row 7 more times - 14sts = 56
> 2 every 8th row 5 times - 10 = 66
> 2 every 10th row 0 times - 0
> 
> I should have 70sts on the needle after all the increases but I count only 66. Guess I will do another couple of increases to make 70sts.
> 
> Any thoughts? I know many are doing the top down version but I have never done sleeves that way and am afraid of botching it.


wanorniron, sorry I can't help you with your sleeve problem. I'm doing the top down version, I hope, anyway. I have the first sleeve cap done, after frogging my first attempt. :roll: My fear of botching it up has been overcome by determination and sheer, unadulterated *stubbornness*! :lol: Besides, all those frogs are still in my pond doing their happy dance.


----------



## wanorniron

Thanks RobbiD, I had a quick look at the video and it seems a bit involved. I'll maybe stick with the regular way of knitting the sleeves but I will keep the link for future reference.


----------



## RobbiD

wanorniron said:


> Thanks RobbiD, I had a quick look at the video and it seems a bit involved. I'll maybe stick with the regular way of knitting the sleeves but I will keep the link for future reference.


Yeah, it is a little confusing to watch. I watched it 2 or 3 times then just kind of took the general idea and went with it. Instead of doing all the math, I just went by the number of stitches I should have had before the cap bind offs on the cuff up instructions, and picked up the stitches and spaced them according to the tutorial. Thanks to Jill2, I found that my armhole was not too big, as I had first thought. There had been a change made to the sleeve pattern in the final version. I was still going by the original version. So far, so good.


----------



## beaz

Hi everyone: I found this interesting piece on the Shadow Wrap method I would like to share. 
http://www.socktopus.co.uk/2011/02/short-rows-shadow-wraps/

I am trying to contain myself but I feel the itch to try that sweater again.


----------



## Kissnntell

thx. i fell asleep b4 johnny v's free short row class last night & didnt wake up till 1:15am!
i'm sure i've done them some where along the line, just not called that, from what i can see so far, but will keep boning up on it
thx again

p.s. yesssss--go 4 it!! like i said b4, what's the worst that can happen? a nice warm sweater 2 work out-door chores in this fall? lol


----------



## wanorniron

beaz said:


> Hi everyone: I found this interesting piece on the Shadow Wrap method I would like to share.
> http://www.socktopus.co.uk/2011/02/short-rows-shadow-wraps/
> 
> I am trying to contain myself but I feel the itch to try that sweater again.


Go for it Beaz. I frogged and tinked so many times I was getting frustrated then my Irish stubborn came out and I was determined it wasn't going to beat me. I have learned many new techniques and I have been a knitter for many years. Thank goodness for the helpful members and the many great web sites they posted. I am now working the sleeves and then the I-cord (another first for me). Hopefully by the time I have this sweater finished I won't be tired looking at it. LOL


----------



## Bethe1

I am at this point also and wondered how to handle this part. With help from my sister, mom2grif, we figured out to do it the way you described. But I'm still a bit confused about how you finished that part. When it's time to go back and pick up those paired stitches, I'm in the middle of the row? So I knit and pick up paired stitches on half the row, then turn and pick up the ones on the far end while purling? Thanks for your help!



wanorniron said:


> Helppppp!!! I need some clarification for the Upper Back shoulder shaping. "Work 4(4,5,6,7,7)pairs of short rows of 4sts over the left and rightmost 16(16,20,24,28,28)sts." Do I knit to the last 4sts of the row and then turn back and purl to the last 4 st. Then on next row knit to last 8sts and turn back and purl to last 8sts etc. Also I noticed some of the brackets only contain 5 different sizes and not 6. Any help would be appreciated. Thanx.


----------



## peachy51

Bethe1 said:


> I am at this point also and wondered how to handle this part. With help from my sister, mom2grif, we figured out to do it the way you described. But I'm still a bit confused about how you finished that part. When it's time to go back and pick up those paired stitches, I'm in the middle of the row? So I knit and pick up paired stitches on half the row, then turn and pick up the ones on the far end while purling? Thanks for your help!


Yes, that's right! You will go to the one end and pick them all up and then do one more row to get the others and then bind off.


----------



## wanorniron

Bethe1 said:


> I am at this point also and wondered how to handle this part. With help from my sister, mom2grif, we figured out to do it the way you described. But I'm still a bit confused about how you finished that part. When it's time to go back and pick up those paired stitches, I'm in the middle of the row? So I knit and pick up paired stitches on half the row, then turn and pick up the ones on the far end while purling? Thanks for your help!


The last short row will be a purl row then you turn your work and knit to the end of the row and purl the entire next row then you bind/cast off on next knit row. Hope that helps Bethe1


----------



## questmiller

wanorniron said:


> Go for it Beaz. I frogged and tinked so many times I was getting frustrated then my Irish stubborn came out and I was determined it wasn't going to beat me. I have learned many new techniques and I have been a knitter for many years. Thank goodness for the helpful members and the many great web sites they posted. I am now working the sleeves and then the I-cord (another first for me). Hopefully by the time I have this sweater finished I won't be tired looking at it. LOL


Yay Beaz -- I don't consider it a knitted project unless I tink and frog at least a few times!


----------



## Kissnntell

okie-dokie merokie!
put in my lifeline & attacked chart B (& right hips)
down to the very last row where it says *work 1 full length* so i take it 2 mean go aalllllll the way back, right?
a long row, not a shortie
btw, whats w/the hoopla over short rows? i've done dozens of them!! of course, was on circs, laid it down, came back & went the wrong way, but that's beside the point!

ok. so NOW what do i do? where do i head now?
do i go into bust (whats a bust????) shaping row A & then go to B, etc?

(that lifeline looks goofy now cuz it looks like i really messed up w/it being crooked lol)

OK UPDATE:
i get it now, going alllll the way back is really R2 of Chrt B

now it says: Bust shaping short rows A: Shaping begins with a RS row.
yeah a WS row. got that but WHAT ws row? where? when?

(k gonna wait till someone comes rescues me lolol)


----------



## peachy51

Kissnntell said:


> okie-dokie merokie!
> put in my lifeline & attacked chart B (& right hips)
> down to the very last row where it says *work 1 full length* so i take it 2 mean go aalllllll the way back, right?
> a long row, not a shortie
> btw, whats w/the hoopla over short rows? i've done dozens of them!! of course, was on circs, laid it down, came back & went the wrong way, but that's beside the point!
> 
> ok. so NOW what do i do? where do i head now?
> do i go into bust (whats a bust????) shaping row A & then go to B, etc?
> 
> (that lifeline looks goofy now cuz it looks like i really messed up w/it being crooked lol)
> 
> OK UPDATE:
> i get it now, going alllll the way back is really R2 of Chrt B
> 
> now it says: Bust shaping short rows A: Shaping begins with a RS row.
> yeah a WS row. got that but WHAT ws row? where? when?
> 
> (k gonna wait till someone comes rescues me lolol)


You're going to be going back and forth between hip shaping the bust shaping. All the hip shaping starts on a wrong side row and all bust shaping starts on a right side row.

So if you have done one hip shaping and gone all the way back over to the other side you are ready to do the Bust Shaping A, after which you will go back to the other side and do another hip shaping, and then back to the other side to do Bust Shaping B and so on and so forth.

This is where you need to be using the Cable Crossing Cheat Sheet because it's the easiest way for you to keep up with where you need to make the cable crossings.


----------



## RobbiD

beaz said:


> Hi everyone: I found this interesting piece on the Shadow Wrap method I would like to share.
> http://www.socktopus.co.uk/2011/02/short-rows-shadow-wraps/
> 
> I am trying to contain myself but I feel the itch to try that sweater again.


Beaz, I sure wish I had seen this before I started. I think that's probably the easiest short rows I have seen yet! I have bookmarked the link for future reference. Thank you so much for posting it.


----------



## RobbiD

beaz said:


> I am trying to contain myself but I feel the itch to try that sweater again.


Glad to hear you are getting that itch. No need to contain yourself, just rejoin the party. We missed ya!


----------



## Kissnntell

OH thank you Peachy!! i DO have it right in my head, but wanted 2 make sure b4 i plunged in
just woke up (2:30a.m.--again!!) so will save this 4 when it's really tomorrow & go @it then


----------



## Kissnntell

Kissnntell said:


> OH thank you Peachy!! i DO have it right in my head, but wanted 2 make sure b4 i plunged in
> just woke up (2:30a.m.--again!!) so will save this 4 when it's really tomorrow & go @it then


ok i think i'm awake now
so what i'm doing is zig-zagging back'n'4th working my way up
that sounds easy enough
thx again!!


----------



## RobbiD

Kissnntell said:


> ok i think i'm awake now
> so what i'm doing is zig-zagging back'n'4th working my way up
> that sounds easy enough
> thx again!!


you got it!


----------



## Melodypop

Okay, I frog ed this 3 times already,. Maybe i'm stubborn or I'm loosing it because I'm 78!!! I'm on chart B right hip shaping: It says work 44 sts, turn and work back to end or row. Work to marker then work 34 sts, turn and work back to end of row etc. Are those supposed to be short row? when I just do the turn, it leaves a hole when I work all the way across? Did I miss something?

Thanks for the help


----------



## Erica Patberg

You're doing great. Yes, those are short rows. When you turn your work you will have a hole unless you use a short row turning method, like the wrap & turn or German short rows. Choose a short row method that you're comfortable with and go to town!!!


Melodypop said:


> Okay, I frog ed this 3 times already,. Maybe i'm stubborn or I'm loosing it because I'm 78!!! I'm on chart B right hip shaping: It says work 44 sts, turn and work back to end or row. Work to marker then work 34 sts, turn and work back to end of row etc. Are those supposed to be short row? when I just do the turn, it leaves a hole when I work all the way across? Did I miss something?
> 
> Thanks for the help


----------



## Kissnntell

yikes! i didnt do either of those w/the shorties. i just did'm & snugged up when there so didnt get the holes
i think i did a cable 2 soon. looks wonky tho thats what the cheat sheet said
i just put it down 4 awhile & go back & contemplate later
it's spring outdoors!!
hek w/inside, i'm going out 4 awhile
ttyl
J~


----------



## Melodypop

Thank you for the quick reply, I thought that might be the case, but wanted to make sure before going on again.

Love the sweater, not sure how it will look on this old body, thanks for the challenge.

Norma



Erica Patberg said:


> You're doing great. Yes, those are short rows. When you turn your work you will have a hole unless you use a short row turning method, like the wrap & turn or German short rows. Choose a short row method that you're comfortable with and go to town!!!


----------



## Melodypop

Stick to it, I know I need a challege to keep my mind young. Boy I sure miss spring with all it's shades of green. I am in AZ now and lived most of my life in MA. Soooo enjoy some of it for me. I'm going to stick with this sweater no matter what....lol

Norma



Kissnntell said:


> yikes! i didnt do either of those w/the shorties. i just did'm & snugged up when there so didnt get the holes
> i think i did a cable 2 soon. looks wonky tho thats what the cheat sheet said
> i just put it down 4 awhile & go back & contemplate later
> it's spring outdoors!!
> hek w/inside, i'm going out 4 awhile
> ttyl
> J~


----------



## wanorniron

I could SCREAM! At the sewing together stage when I noticed one of the centre back cables doesn't line up with the others. How did I manage that and not see it before now. I am so frustrated, now it's back to frogging yet again. Thought I would be wearing the finished garment but instead it's back to a WIP.


----------



## Carole-Jayne

wanorniron said:


> I could SCREAM! At the sewing together stage when I noticed one of the centre back cables doesn't line up with the others. How did I manage that and not see it before now. I am so frustrated, now it's back to frogging yet again. Thought I would be wearing the finished garment but instead it's back to a WIP.


I looked and looked, and re-read your screams and looked again, and yes ok I finally found it. BUT ... Dear Lord Above, that is just not going to be noticeable when it's on - unless you are standing in the front of a crowded elevator and it looses power and the old biddy behind you has nothing better to do than stare at your back!!!!!!!!!!!
Assuming to speak to people face to face, I'd leave it alone - that is one pile of un-doing to correct something that other people won't notice.!
I LOVE it - and you
cj


----------



## wanorniron

CJ, thank you for the support, your comment about the old biddy made me laugh. I have frogged it already as I would not have been happy wearing it so I will do it over and this time I won't be changing the direction of the cable.


----------



## Carole-Jayne

wanorniron said:


> CJ, thank you for the support, your comment about the old biddy made me laugh. I have frogged it already as I would not have been happy wearing it so I will do it over and this time I won't be changing the direction of the cable.


Truth be told - I would have unknit it too! I know I would deflect any compliment by pointing out the error, so I feel for you. Send us another picture when it's re-incarnation is done!
good luck
cj


----------



## Kissnntell

oh u poor dear! i surely feel 4 u
so, something 4 me 2 keep in mind
but i agree w/CJ--ol'biddies hahahaha luv it!
but other than that, & u'll b the only 1 2 notice, it looks terrific!


----------



## gdhavens

wanorniron,I feel for you. If you aren't happy with it, it is better to just frog it (hopefully only to where you goofed) and re-do it. I'm afraid that is what I would have had to do. 

I have to say, I do like the color you chose, and the knitting is beautiful.


----------



## Melodypop

So glad you posted it, it will help me be more aware of what I am doing. I just put my work down, because I have to do some frogging myself, becuse my short rows do not look right. Sounds like you may be as stubborn as I am. I also would not want to wear it if it was incorrect. Keep up the good work, it looks great anyway.

Norma



wanorniron said:


> I could SCREAM! At the sewing together stage when I noticed one of the centre back cables doesn't line up with the others. How did I manage that and not see it before now. I am so frustrated, now it's back to frogging yet again. Thought I would be wearing the finished garment but instead it's back to a WIP.


----------



## Kissnntell

WELL!!
i'm a flippin professional now!
kno how I kno?
MY TURN 2 FROG!!
hahahaha
plum 4got 2 do the decreases on the right side
AARGH!!!!!


----------



## questmiller

wanorniron said:


> I could SCREAM! At the sewing together stage when I noticed one of the centre back cables doesn't line up with the others. How did I manage that and not see it before now. I am so frustrated, now it's back to frogging yet again. Thought I would be wearing the finished garment but instead it's back to a WIP.


Bummer...on a brighter note, I love the color!


----------



## RobbiD

Kissnntell said:


> yikes! i didnt do either of those w/the shorties. i just did'm & snugged up when there so didnt get the holes
> i think i did a cable 2 soon. looks wonky tho thats what the cheat sheet said
> i just put it down 4 awhile & go back & contemplate later
> it's spring outdoors!!
> hek w/inside, i'm going out 4 awhile
> ttyl
> J~


It's finally spring weather in Wisconsin, too. YIPPEE :lol: :lol:


----------



## RobbiD

Kissnntell said:


> WELL!!
> i'm a flippin professional now!
> kno how I kno?
> MY TURN 2 FROG!!
> hahahaha
> plum 4got 2 do the decreases on the right side
> AARGH!!!!!


Hey, Kissnntell, you stealing the frogs from my pond? :lol:


----------



## RobbiD

wanorniron said:


> I could SCREAM! At the sewing together stage when I noticed one of the centre back cables doesn't line up with the others. How did I manage that and not see it before now. I am so frustrated, now it's back to frogging yet again. Thought I would be wearing the finished garment but instead it's back to a WIP.


Like Carol-Jayne said, it took me a while before I noticed it, too. But, alas, I would frog too. Absolutely beautiful color and very nice work.


----------



## wanorniron

Thank you all for the kind words. I am using Bernat Satin Plum Mist Heather. I have been trying to figure out how and where I went wrong. The only thing I can think of is that I missed one full set of bust shaping somewhere so I have frogged right back to the end of Chart A and will redo. Feeling a little discouraged but my Irish stubborn is still intact so it's "onward to glory" LOL


----------



## Needleme

Sorry for stupid question-- about to start Chart B. Do I work a whole set of 
Rows 1-10 ( for my size in parentheses) before I start the "All sizes:" part of the pattern?


----------



## beaz

Can someone tell me the difference between these stitches:

m1p: Insert left needle under the strand between the stitches from back to front and purl into the front of the new stitch
and
Twisted make 1: Pick up strand between the sts with the left needle from back to front, purl the strand through the front loop.
This still confuses me so you better save some of those frogs for me, think I will need them. You are all doing great!


----------



## wanorniron

Needleme said:


> Sorry for stupid question-- about to start Chart B. Do I work a whole set of
> Rows 1-10 ( for my size in parentheses) before I start the "All sizes:" part of the pattern?


Yes unless you are doing size 36 or 38 then you go right to the all sizes


----------



## Erica Patberg

One difference in this pattern is that the m1P is worked from the wrong side and the twisted make 1 is worked from the RS.


beaz said:


> Can someone tell me the difference between these stitches:
> 
> m1p: Insert left needle under the strand between the stitches from back to front and purl into the front of the new stitch
> and
> Twisted make 1: Pick up strand between the sts with the left needle from back to front, purl the strand through the front loop.
> This still confuses me so you better save some of those frogs for me, think I will need them. You are all doing great!


----------



## Needleme

wanorniron said:


> Yes unless you are doing size 36 or 38 then you go right to the all sizes


Thank you so much! People keep saying not to over think the pattern, but it is much more than I have ever attempted!!


----------



## Needleme

wanorniron said:


> Thank you all for the kind words. I am using Bernat Satin Plum Mist Heather. I have been trying to figure out how and where I went wrong. The only thing I can think of is that I missed one full set of bust shaping somewhere so I have frogged right back to the end of Chart A and will redo. Feeling a little discouraged but my Irish stubborn is still intact so it's "onward to glory" LOL


You go, girl!! Your work is beautiful! I am using Bernat Satin as well.


----------



## Kissnntell

i am so!!
get over it, u gloomy-gus-ette (not 2 b confused w/gusset)
cant have'm all!!!!



RobbiD said:


> Hey, Kissnntell, you stealing the frogs from my pond? :lol:


----------



## beaz

Erica Patberg said:


> One difference in this pattern is that the m1P is worked from the wrong side and the twisted make 1 is worked from the RS.


So, then according to the pattern, the twisted make 1 should be on the WS if the body ends on the WS and the chart A starts with the RS. Then this is actually M1P then, right?


----------



## RobbiD

Kissnntell said:


> i am so!!
> get over it, u gloomy-gus-ette (not 2 b confused w/gusset)
> cant have'm all!!!!


Sigh....I guess not, but they have been here so long I have become quite attached to all them frogs :lol:


----------



## gdhavens

As I look at the chart, all of the twisted make 1 are in the purl row immediately following the cable twist This increase will be hidden in the "twist" of the cable.

Beaz, it looks like this pattern is an "itch" you will have until you "scratch" it, LOL! Have you decided to try again, or are you just thinking on it?


----------



## RobbiD

beaz said:


> So, then according to the pattern, the twisted make 1 should be on the WS if the body ends on the WS and the chart A starts with the RS. Then this is actually M1P then, right?


Hi beaz. The twisted M1 is done on a wrong side (even numbered row). It sounds to me that the techniques are the same, pick up the strand between the 2 sts with left needle from back to front, purl this strand through the front loop. So, regardless of the name, the result is the same stitch. The only problem I had with these is that they are made in the stitches from the cable cross where the stitches are bunched and tight, so I had a hard time finding the strand between the stitches. I just used the one that seemed like the right one, and they all look OK from the right side.  Hope this helps. And Welcome Back!


----------



## Kissnntell

yeah & i'll just bet u've named all those lil buggers 2, havent ya?



RobbiD said:


> Sigh....I guess not, but they have been here so long I have become quite attached to all them frogs :lol:


----------



## RobbiD

wanorniron said:


> Thank you all for the kind words. I am using Bernat Satin Plum Mist Heather. I have been trying to figure out how and where I went wrong. The only thing I can think of is that I missed one full set of bust shaping somewhere so I have frogged right back to the end of Chart A and will redo. Feeling a little discouraged but my Irish stubborn is still intact so it's "onward to glory" LOL


Your Irish stubborn, and my Swedish bull-headedness, are handy things to have for this project  Who'dathunk? It's getting so that if I finish a section, and haven't frogged atl east once, I have done something wrong 

I'm using Bernat Satin, too, in Stone. This seems to be a popular yarn for this sweater.


----------



## RobbiD

Kissnntell said:


> yeah & i'll just bet u've named all those lil buggers 2, havent ya?


Most of 'em! hee hee. But the names are not printable.


----------



## beaz

gdhavens said:


> As I look at the chart, all of the twisted make 1 are in the purl row immediately following the cable twist This increase will be hidden in the "twist" of the cable.
> 
> Beaz, it looks like this pattern is an "itch" you will have until you "scratch" it, LOL! Have you decided to try again, or are you just thinking on it?


I have been itching to try again, after much researching on how to do it. My hands couldn't remain idle for long as right now I don't have anything to do and I have all that yarn.l I am on Chart A again. Good to hear from both you and Robbie.


----------



## Kissnntell

*YEAH!!!!!!!*



beaz said:


> I have been itching to try again, after much researching on how to do it. My hands couldn't remain idle for long as right now I don't have anything to do and I have all that yarn.l I am on Chart A again. Good to hear from both you and Robbie.


----------



## janwalla

beaz said:


> I have been itching to try again, after much researching on how to do it. My hands couldn't remain idle for long as right now I don't have anything to do and I have all that yarn.l I am on Chart A again. Good to hear from both you and Robbie.


Welcome back beaz I know you will manage this time!! I think everyone has had to frog with this, ive just finished the body piece and am now on to the back and front bits. Ive even had to frog those cos they didnt match lol. Good luck!!


----------



## wanorniron

Welcome back to the frog pond Beaz. :thumbup:


----------



## Carolinesol

beaz said:


> I have been itching to try again, after much researching on how to do it. My hands couldn't remain idle for long as right now I don't have anything to do and I have all that yarn.l I am on Chart A again. Good to hear from both you and Robbie.


Welcome back


----------



## gdhavens

Welcome back! Just remember, take a deep, cleansing breath. Don't over think, trust the pattern, one stitch at a time, one row at a time.

As always, come here for help when needed. Pm me if necessary.


----------



## Oh Donna

"Your Irish stubborn, and my Swedish bull-headedness"...

Got some room in there for German ....obstinance???
I have not yet had to get myself baptised in the frog pond, but I'm due any time now.
I've got 1 1/2 more repeats on chart B and I will be "comin' (back) 'round the mountain"...I'm so excited to be this far !!!


----------



## questmiller

Oh Donna said:


> "Your Irish stubborn, and my Swedish bull-headedness"...
> 
> Got some room in there for German ....obstinance???
> I have not yet had to get myself baptised in the frog pond, but I'm due any time now.
> I've got 1 1/2 more repeats on chart B and I will be "comin' (back) 'round the mountain"...I'm so excited to be this far !!!


Hope you didn't just jinx yourself there Donna!


----------



## mom2grif

Oh Donna said:


> "Your Irish stubborn, and my Swedish bull-headedness"...
> 
> Got some room in there for German ....obstinance???
> I have not yet had to get myself baptised in the frog pond, but I'm due any time now.
> I've got 1 1/2 more repeats on chart B and I will be "comin' (back) 'round the mountain"...I'm so excited to be this far !!!


Guess I've got Swedish bull-headed ness. My great grandmother came over to US when she was 17. All by herself to get away from an arranged marriage. She got a job cleaning house for a nice Swedish man in NYC who eventually became my great grandfather.


----------



## janwalla

Please can someone explain how to do the short row shaping for the back? I keep doing it and its shaping the wrong way. I cant seem to wrap my head around how to get it to slope correctly? How daft am I? lol


----------



## Jill2

janwalla said:


> Please can someone explain how to do the short row shaping for the back? I keep doing it and its shaping the wrong way. I cant seem to wrap my head around how to get it to slope correctly? How daft am I? lol


Look back on page 30... We talked about it there.


----------



## janwalla

Jill2 said:


> Look back on page 30... We talked about it there.


Thanks Jill2 I didnt think to look back (duh), I appreciate your help :thumbup: :thumbup:


----------



## Jill2

janwalla said:


> Thanks Jill2 I didnt think to look back (duh), I appreciate your help :thumbup: :thumbup:


You're welcome! Glad you asked as looking back thru 85 pages could seriously cut into ones knitting time!


----------



## janwalla

Jill2 said:


> You're welcome! Glad you asked as looking back thru 85 pages could seriously cut into ones knitting time!


This forum seriously cuts into my knitting time LOL :thumbup: :thumbup: Thanks again! im away to knit, ive printed out the explanation so here goes!!


----------



## Jill2

janwalla said:


> This forum seriously cuts into my knitting time LOL :thumbup: :thumbup: Thanks again! im away to knit, ive printed out the explanation so here goes!!


Great...you'll have the back knocked out before you know it!


----------



## ElegantDetails

Jill2 said:


> Look back on page 30... We talked about it there.


Jill2....you have come to my rescue more than once...and you always know right where to look. How do you keep track of what's on what page. If you do it with bookmarks....how do you label them or do you seriously take the time to look it up for us rookies?? Thanks to you and a couple of others I am almost done with the body piece, I would realy like to know an efficient way to keep track of some of the more important points.......


----------



## Jill2

ElegantDetails said:


> Jill2....you have come to my rescue more than once...and you always know right where to look. How do you keep track of what's on what page. If you do it with bookmarks....how do you label them or do you seriously take the time to look it up for us rookies?? Thanks to you and a couple of others I am almost done with the body piece, I would realy like to know an efficient way to keep track of some of the more important points.......


The only reason I knew where to look for this last question is because I remembered replying to the questmiller's question about the back yoke shaping.
So I clicked on 'my profile', then on 'list' for the messages I had posted.
I had to scan 6-7 pages of my posts before I found the one I was looking for.

So, to answer your question, I don't have a secret, and if there is one out there I'd like to know about it too!


----------



## Needleme

Ok, messed up my first go-round at short rows on Chart B, but watched the YouTube video a couple of times, frogged back, and put it aside for next time. I kinda sorta get it, but we'll see!! Deep breath!!


----------



## lulu11

I am mother-cord and it doesn't fit me so hope fits my sister


----------



## RobbiD

Oh Donna said:


> "Your Irish stubborn, and my Swedish bull-headedness"...
> 
> Got some room in there for German ....obstinance???
> I have not yet had to get myself baptised in the frog pond, but I'm due any time now.
> I've got 1 1/2 more repeats on chart B and I will be "comin' (back) 'round the mountain"...I'm so excited to be this far !!!


Sure Donna, we've got room for everyone!!! 

As for the baptismal pond, I'm keeping all the little froggies very busy lately. I swear, I have pulled the best one yet. I was starting on my second sleeve, top down. It was going sooooo smoothly, and I was very happy. Then I noticed that I was shaping from the underarm UP, instead of from the shoulder DOWN. *DUH!!!*
My Honey and I (and of course the frogs) all had a good laugh over _that_ one. :lol: Still can't figure out how I did it.


----------



## RobbiD

mom2grif said:


> Guess I've got Swedish bull-headed ness. My great grandmother came over to US when she was 17. All by herself to get away from an arranged marriage. She got a job cleaning house for a nice Swedish man in NYC who eventually became my great grandfather.


I have it times 3 over, with a Norwegian thrown in, to boot. 3 grandparents were born in Sweden and 1 born in Norway. And people wonder why I can never quit anything I start! haha


----------



## RobbiD

Needleme said:


> Ok, messed up my first go-round at short rows on Chart B, but watched the YouTube video a couple of times, frogged back, and put it aside for next time. I kinda sorta get it, but we'll see!! Deep breath!!


Needleme, beaz shared a link for a different way of doing short rows a couple of days ago. I tried it out on my second sleeve, and it seems to be the easiest way I have seen yet. Here's the link again, so you don't have to go searching for it: http://www.socktopus.co.uk/2011/02/short-rows-shadow-wraps/


----------



## ElegantDetails

Jill2 said:


> The only reason I knew where to look for this last question is because I remembered replying to the questmiller's question about the back yoke shaping.
> So I clicked on 'my profile', then on 'list' for the messages I had posted.
> I had to scan 6-7 pages of my posts before I found the one I was looking for.
> 
> So, to answer your question, I don't have a secret, and if there is one out there I'd like to know about it too!


Thanks so much for the explanation.......I forget that we can look back to our previous posts.. that does help. .


----------



## lulu11

lulu11 said:


> I am mother-cord and it doesn't fit me so hope fits my sister


Ok that's was supposed to say I am on the I-cord and the sweater does not fit me so I hope it will fit my sister because I am not flogging it


----------



## Needleme

RobbiD said:


> Needleme, beaz shared a link for a different way of doing short rows a couple of days ago. I tried it out on my second sleeve, and it seems to be the easiest way I have seen yet. Here's the link again, so you don't have to go searching for it: http://www.socktopus.co.uk/2011/02/short-rows-shadow-wraps/


Ooh, thanks!! Will try it and let you know how I fare. Even though I am making mistakes, I love learning on this sweater!!! Having a ball with you all!!


----------



## Needleme

mom2grif said:


> Guess I've got Swedish bull-headed ness. My great grandmother came over to US when she was 17. All by herself to get away from an arranged marriage. She got a job cleaning house for a nice Swedish man in NYC who eventually became my great grandfather.


Isn't that amazing and so very brave!! At seventeen and all by herself to a new country. Wow!!


----------



## Kissnntell

who r u not going to FLOG? the sweater? or the pattern? or ur sis?
rofl :lol: :lol:



lulu11 said:


> Ok that's was supposed to say I am on the I-cord and the sweater does not fit me so I hope it will fit my sister because I am not flogging it


----------



## maryannn

I stopped receiving this many pages ago.
Anyhow, I have around 30 more rows to go before the body is finished.
Great feeling!
Mary Ann


----------



## RobbiD

Needleme said:


> Ooh, thanks!! Will try it and let you know how I fare. Even though I am making mistakes, I love learning on this sweater!!! Having a ball with you all!!


Your welcome, Needleme. And I think we all are making mistakes. But , you are right, having the rest of us around to help thru the mistakes, questions, and inevitable frogging and frustrations has made this a really enjoyable experience.  If I had to do this sweater on my own, I think I would have thrown in the towel LONG ago. Instead, I just keep the towel around to dry myself after crawling out of the frog pond _again_! LOL


----------



## Kissnntell

i just got done writing out the entire spot for chart B so i wont 4get 2 do those decreases again
NOW let's c if i can git'r'dun right!!


----------



## RobbiD

Kissnntell said:


> i just got done writing out the entire spot for chart B so i wont 4get 2 do those decreases again
> NOW let's c if i can git'r'dun right!!


Hmmm. Can a person still knit if they have writer's cramp? The strange thoughts that pop into my addled little brain before I've had enough coffee!!! :lol:

Git'r'dun Kissnntell. I've got faith in you!


----------



## Kissnntell

hahaha NO == well @least I cant so put it aside & went & did my morning farming (Farmville) lolol
dont do coffee so cant relate on that part, srry! lol
& THX 4 the faith -- i'm sure i'm gonna need tons of it!



RobbiD said:


> Hmmm. Can a person still knit if they have writer's cramp? The strange thoughts that pop into my addled little brain before I've had enough coffee!!! :lol:
> 
> Git'r'dun Kissnntell. I've got faith in you!


----------



## janwalla

Jill2 said:


> Great...you'll have the back knocked out before you know it!


Thanks got it finished last night. I now need to block if i can find a space to lay out the Grandchildren's hopscotch boards! MMMmmmm one of these days ill invest in some proper ones,(cos the numbers fall out) but to be honest have been knitting for years and have never blocked until reading this forum!! lol


----------



## questmiller

lulu11 said:


> Ok that's was supposed to say I am on the I-cord and the sweater does not fit me so I hope it will fit my sister because I am not flogging it


I'm sure your sister will love it!


----------



## Needleme

I still don't get the cable crossing sheet. I am afraid to go forward from Right Hip shaping after Bust shaping short Rows A until I figure it out. 
Can anyone explain it in "lunkhead language" for me?


----------



## Kissnntell

start @the bottom right & pretend there r arrows
just follow it back & forth going upwards
when u come across a red dot, that means thats where a cable goes
does that help?


----------



## Needleme

Kissnntell said:


> start @the bottom right & pretend there r arrows
> just follow it back & forth going upwards
> when u come across a red dot, that means thats where a cable goes
> does that help?


In that section or on what Row?  sorry so stupid


----------



## gdhavens

The shaping starts after you have done as many repeats of Chart B as your size requires. Under Chart B it says "for all sizes: work row 1 of Chart B once, then begin Right Hip shaping while continuing to follow Chart B, taking care to continue crossing cables every 10th row." The cheat sheet tells you where you need to "cross the cables" without counting every row. Basically, chart B is telling you to cable cross every 10th row but with the short rows, every section has a different place for the 10th row cable cross. It sounds confusing, but it all works out and you end up with all the cable crosses coming on the same row across the back. GREAT design Erica!!!

let"s see if I can make a cheat sheet for the cheat sheet:

Think of the piece as laying on a table with the RS up and the top of the body on the right. 

Hip shaping #1: goes 44 sts, then 34 sts, then 24 sts, then 14 sts. You will cable in the last cable (on the bottom) on the return row after the 14 st short row, then the return row goes all the way to the top where you will start bus shaping A.

Short row 45 sts, then 35 sts, then 25 sts, then you will cable in the first (top) cable while doing the 15 sts. short row. Work back to the top, then all the way across to the next hip shaping.

Hip shaping #2: Short row 44 sts, cable in the 4th (next to last) cable on the return row, short row 34 sts, then 24 sts, then cable in the last cable (bottom) on the return row. Then work all the way to the top again.

Bust shaping B: Cable in the second cable on the first 45 st short row, return to the top, bind off 19 arm sts, wort 16 sts in pattern, turn and work back, then work 6 st short row and work back. Work across 1 full row to next hip shaping.

Hip shaping #3: The only cable in this section is in the last cable in the last short row return to the bottom.

Bust shaping C: short row 26 sts, then return, Next row, k2, ssk, work 12 sts short row, then return, next row k2, ssp, then cable in the cable section (which is actually the second cable section) work to the fourth cable section and cable this section, then work all the way to the bottom for the next hip shaping row.

Hip shaping #4: The only cable in this section is in the return row of the 14 st short row. Work all the way across to the top for Bust shaping D.

Bust Shaping D: Short row 24 sts, work back to top M1 at end of row. Work short row of 15 sts, work back to top M1 at end of row. Work short row of 6 sts, work back to top. Work 1 full row across cabling in the center cable.

Hip shaping #5: Short row 44 sts, then 34 sts, cable in the 4th cable section on the return row, short row 24 sts, then 14 sts cabling in the last cable section on the return row. Work all the way across casting on 19 sts at the end of the row.

Bust shaping E: Short row 45 sts, work back, short row 35 sts cabling in the first and second cable.

I don't know if this helps you, but it did seem to help me.


----------



## Kissnntell

helped me 2, thx hon


----------



## mom2grif

See if this helps with understanding cheat sheet.

I know it's hard to see, PM me your email if you'd like and I'll email image.


----------



## RobbiD

Needleme said:


> I still don't get the cable crossing sheet. I am afraid to go forward from Right Hip shaping after Bust shaping short Rows A until I figure it out.
> Can anyone explain it in "lunkhead language" for me?


Needleme, I don't know if this will help or not. After you do the bust shaping short rows, you will work one FULL knit row, which will take you all the way back to the bottom (left side of knitting) of the body. When you turn your work to do a purl row, start the hip shaping again. Then when you finish the hip short rows and purl one FULL row (taking you back to the top (right-hand side of your knitting) of the body, you are set up to do the next set of bust shaping short rows. You'll be kind of zig-zagging back and forth between the top and bottom of the body. Oooh, I hope I didn't make it more confusing  
Just use the cheat sheet and the written instructions for the short rows and ignore chart B until the right shapings have been completed.


----------



## RobbiD

mom2grif said:


> See if this helps with understanding cheat sheet.
> 
> I know it's hard to see, PM me your email if you'd like and I'll email image.


Great notes added to your cheat sheet, Susan. I also placed markers, at 14, 24, 34, and 44 sts for example, as I started each short row, so I wouldn't have to keep counting the stitches for each wrap and turn. I would remove the marker as the turn was done. This helped a lot when doing the short rows that included the armhole bind off/cast on rows.


----------



## RobbiD

Needleme said:


> In that section or on what Row?  sorry so stupid


The red dots for the cable crosses are in the row that you will be working, and in the cable that you will be crossing. The cheat sheet has separate columns labeled "cable" and "plain" along the bottom of the page.


----------



## maryannn

I finally finished the body of the sweater. It is still damp.
Perseverance paid off. So glad that I am his far.
Mary Ann


----------



## Carolinesol

maryannn said:


> I finally finished the body of the sweater. It is still damp.
> Perseverance paid off. So glad that I am his far.
> Mary Ann


Well done. Lovely neat work.


----------



## Erica Patberg

Beautiful! The rest will fly by.


maryannn said:


> I finally finished the body of the sweater. It is still damp.
> Perseverance paid off. So glad that I am his far.
> Mary Ann


----------



## charlenekbenton

Hooray....beautifull, Maryann


----------



## RobbiD

maryannn said:


> I finally finished the body of the sweater. It is still damp.
> Perseverance paid off. So glad that I am his far.
> Mary Ann


looks beautiful Maryannn!


----------



## maryannn

Thanks everyone. It is amazing how the imperfections disappear after it is blocked by spraying with water.
MA


----------



## Kissnntell

hot-diggity!
that is DEFINATELY good 2 kno!! lol



maryannn said:


> Thanks everyone. It is amazing how the imperfections disappear after it is blocked by spraying with water.
> MA


----------



## beaz

Yea! Just finished Chart A and forging ahead. I am on a 24" circular needle, do you think I should change to larger at this point or will I be okay?


----------



## Jill2

beaz said:


> Yea! Just finished Chart A and forging ahead. I am on a 24" circular needle, do you think I should change to larger at this point or will I be okay?


It should be fine!

Congratulations on reaching the first milestone!


----------



## beaz

On Chart B, do I start with the 4 multiples and then work row 1 again and then go onto hip shaping?


----------



## Carolinesol

beaz said:


> Yea! Just finished Chart A and forging ahead. I am on a 24" circular needle, do you think I should change to larger at this point or will I be okay?


Well done.


----------



## Jill2

beaz said:


> On Chart B, do I start with the 4 multiples and then work row 1 again and then go onto hip shaping?


I forget....what size are you making?


----------



## beaz

Jill2 said:


> I forget....what size are you making?


am making size 34


----------



## Jill2

beaz said:


> am making size 34


Work only 1 row of chart B.
Then start working right hip shaping, while continuing to follow chart B.


----------



## beaz

I am totally confused even before starting, going into chart B, there are 109 stitches but according to my calculations and counting out line 1 of the chart, there are only 99. Also it says to work to marker: is this the marker before the ML stitch; i.e., marker with 12 stitches after it?


----------



## wanorniron

beaz said:


> I am totally confused even before starting, going into chart B, there are 109 stitches but according to my calculations and counting out line 1 of the chart, there are only 99. Also it says to work to marker: is this the marker before the ML stitch; i.e., marker with 12 stitches after it?


Beaz, it doesn't include all the increases on the left side after the marker. Yes that is the marker with 12 sts after it. For the hip shaping you purl to the marker then start counting the sts for short rows. Hope this helps.


----------



## RobbiD

Jill2 said:


> It should be fine!
> 
> Congratulations on reaching the first milestone!


Your 24" should be just fine.


----------



## RobbiD

beaz said:


> I am totally confused even before starting, going into chart B, there are 109 stitches but according to my calculations and counting out line 1 of the chart, there are only 99. Also it says to work to marker: is this the marker before the ML stitch; i.e., marker with 12 stitches after it?


There are only 99 stitches, not counting stitches to the left of the marker. If you did not add any additional stitches, as I did, your total, including those to the left of the marker, should be 109. The stitches to the left of the marker do not appear on the chart. Your calculations are correct. Because there was an option of adding stitches to the stockinette border, that is why the instructions state work to marker, then start to count stitches for the short rows. Just try to remember hip short rows start on purl rows, and bust shapings begin on knit rows. Do a complete hip shaping, then a complete bust shaping, then a complete hip shaping, etc. You will be sort of working on one side for several short rows, then the opposite side for several short rows

When you start the short rows, I would suggest you follow the written instructions, along with the cheat sheet, and ignore the chart. It gets confusing if you try to continue to follow the chart until the short rows are done. The cheat sheet has all the info you need to get the cables crossed in the right places. Susan (Mom2Grif) posted a great cheat sheet with some edits she made, to make it easier to follow. If you have any problems, frustrations, etc., feel free to pm me. Having done those short rows more than once, I might be able to help. :lol:

PS Thanks for the great link on the shadow wrap short rows. I wish I had had it before I did the shapings!


----------



## Kissnntell

Robbie ur help has just been that 4 me -- HELP!
i cant believe how easy this pattern is!
& 2 think i moaned over it 4 so long b4 i finally gave in & did it!
i have Elizabeth Shawl 2 do 4 1 of my daughters that i have been dreading 2 do, also, & i'm sure once i get going it will b just as easy
but -- MY sweater 1st!! lol


----------



## gdhavens

RobbiD, I agree with you that it is easier to ignore Chart B when doing the short row shaping. I think that may be what is confusing to some. Just follow the written instructions below the chart, and don't forget to work all the way across the row to the next short row section, working back and forth from the hip to the bust, in sections. The cheat sheet will make sense once you start.


----------



## toast

Has anyone finished their sweater putting the I-cord all the way around the whole sweater.


----------



## debbieh63

Just finished chart A and put in a lifeline, YAY!!! So my question now is if I do a size 38, I go straight into the shaping but if I do a size 40, I would need to do chart B one full time (10 rows) before I start the shaping? Just not sure yet which size I will do since I am losing a few pounds, and of course it goes from the top first. lol


----------



## Jill2

toast said:


> Has anyone finished their sweater putting the I-cord all the way around the whole sweater.


I did, only because I thought it was supposed to be that way. 
Since I did that I read that it was only supposed to be up the fronts and around the neck. I started examining mine and did not like what looks like a double icord around the back.. So... I frogged it. 
Like it much better without as the back naturally curls under and looks like an icord.


----------



## judsretired

Just finished Chart A, Yea!!!!! I just took it one row at a time and had no problems. Just getting ready to start Chart B and all the shaping. Want to say thank you to all for the information on how to do this. I read it and thought ON NO, CAN I DO THIS! But after reading some of the post several pages back YES I CAN DO THIS! 
What a great group of people on this site. 
*Erica you are one amazing designer to look at a picture and then come up with this sweater.* What a lot of hard work you must have done to come up with this pattern. Will look on Raverly for more of your designs.


----------



## RobbiD

Kissnntell said:


> Robbie ur help has just been that 4 me -- HELP!
> i cant believe how easy this pattern is!
> & 2 think i moaned over it 4 so long b4 i finally gave in & did it!
> i have Elizabeth Shawl 2 do 4 1 of my daughters that i have been dreading 2 do, also, & i'm sure once i get going it will b just as easy
> but -- MY sweater 1st!! lol


Awww...you make me blush! But that's the fun part of this whole KAL. Having people available to help and encourage, and then being able to help someone else. Send me a link for the Elizabeth Shawl if you can, I have become _addicted_ to shawl patterns lately.


----------



## RobbiD

toast said:


> Has anyone finished their sweater putting the I-cord all the way around the whole sweater.


Hi toast. I'm not finished with my sweater yet. About half-way thru the second sleeve, but I did put the i-cord all the way around the whole sweater and the cuff of the first sleeve.


----------



## RobbiD

debbieh63 said:


> Just finished chart A and put in a lifeline, YAY!!! So my question now is if I do a size 38, I go straight into the shaping but if I do a size 40, I would need to do chart B one full time (10 rows) before I start the shaping? Just not sure yet which size I will do since I am losing a few pounds, and of course it goes from the top first. lol


Hi Debbie63. For a 38 you will do row1 of chart B then into the first hip shaping, as it begins on a purl row. For a 40 you will do a complete Chart B (all 10 rows) then do row 1 of chart B, then start the shaping.


----------



## RobbiD

Jill2 said:


> I did, only because I thought it was supposed to be that way.
> Since I did that I read that it was only supposed to be up the fronts and around the neck. I started examining mine and did not like what looks like a double icord around the back.. So... I frogged it.
> Like it much better without as the back naturally curls under and looks like an icord.


Hmmm, now you've got me thinking Jill. I really hadn't looked that closely at the back. And it seems to me Erica had posted to someone else that if additional stitches had been added to the stockinette border, the i-cord would have to go all the way around. I did add stitches to mine, so went with the i-cord all the way around.
I was thinking of frogging the i-cord, anyway, cuz it seems to pucker the stockinette portion a bit at the bottom front curves. I had decided to wait till my sleeves were done and see how it looked when it was all together. The funny thing is, the i-cord around the hem of the sleeve is preventing it from curling. Go figure. :roll: 
Looks like I'll be scheduling another dip in the dreaded "frog pond" as soon as the second sleeve is done. sigh....


----------



## Kissnntell

the shawl is one of Stevieland's on Ravalery. i have 2 of hers



RobbiD said:


> Awww...you make me blush! But that's the fun part of this whole KAL. Having people available to help and encourage, and then being able to help someone else. Send me a link for the Elizabeth Shawl if you can, I have become _addicted_ to shawl patterns lately.


----------



## debbieh63

Thanks, RobbiD! That was my thought but just wanted to be sure. This is my first for everything but a knit and purl. The chart reading is easier than I thought and everyone here has been very helpful. I think I will do a few short row samples for practice first, just so I can figure out which one to use!


----------



## RobbiD

debbieh63 said:


> Thanks, RobbiD! That was my thought but just wanted to be sure. This is my first for everything but a knit and purl. The chart reading is easier than I thought and everyone here has been very helpful. I think I will do a few short row samples for practice first, just so I can figure out which one to use!


Debbie63, beaz posted a link to what I think (just my opinion) are the easiest short rows I've seen. You might want to give them a try. http://www.socktopus.co.uk/2011/02/short-rows-shadow-wraps/.


----------



## catlover1960

RobbiD said:


> Debbie63, beaz posted a link to what I think (just my opinion) are the easiest short rows I've seen. You might want to give them a try. http://www.socktopus.co.uk/2011/02/short-rows-shadow-wraps/.


I wish I had seen the way of doing the short rows when working the body of the sweater. I just finished the back piece and used this technique for the short rows on the back. Very easy and they barely show. Thanks Beaz for sharing the link with everyone.


----------



## debbieh63

Just finished looking over the shadow wrap and I'm going with those. They do seem to be the easiest. Thanks Beaz for this link!


----------



## janwalla

Sorry for a stupid question but how do you block the body? I have started to pin it out and have got the waist measurement correct but now the hip shaping is puckering I haven't wet it yet cos i thought id pin it out then spritz it. I am using a 40%cotton, 12% linen and 48% acrylic yarn blend. Didnt want to wet through cos of the acrylic bit. Ive also never blocked an adult size thing before, I usually just knit it, sew it together then wear it!! lol


----------



## Carolinesol

janwalla said:


> Sorry for a stupid question but how do you block the body? I have started to pin it out and have got the waist measurement correct but now the hip shaping is puckering I haven't wet it yet cos i thought id pin it out then spritz it. I am using a 40%cotton, 12% linen and 48% acrylic yarn blend. Didnt want to wet through cos of the acrylic bit. Ive also never blocked an adult size thing before, I usually just knit it, sew it together then wear it!! lol


Sorry not answering your question as I am not good at blocking myself. But where did you get your yarn from sounds like a nice mixture.


----------



## catlover1960

I'm not good at blocking either, but this is how I did mine. The yarn I used is 100% acrylic. My blocking board has 1" squares on it. I pinned it to size as best I could and tried to smooth the pucker as best I could. I did not stretch the body but smoothed and repinned until the body laid flat. I have a garment steamer that I went over the whole body, manipulating some of the cables where I was not happy with how they were looking. I then gave it one last good steaming and left it to dry. It looked pretty good when dry. I then picked up the stitches for the back so that was one less seam to do. Knit the back, did a 3 needle bind off for the shoulders and am going to block again before seaming the right and left fronts.


----------



## janwalla

Carolinesol said:


> Sorry not answering your question as I am not good at blocking myself. But where did you get your yarn from sounds like a nice mixture.


I bought it off Ebay its supposed to be a china pink but it looks more like a peach with bits of white slubby bits. Its made by copley and called cotton on to linen. I bought 30 balls for less than a £1 a ball. I didnt like it for this pattern, but my daughter wanted me to knit her this cardi in it. However, Ill still have enough to make a cotton summer top in it hopefully!!


----------



## janwalla

catlover1960 said:


> I'm not good at blocking either, but this is how I did mine. The yarn I used is 100% acrylic. My blocking board has 1" squares on it. I pinned it to size as best I could and tried to smooth the pucker as best I could. I did not stretch the body but smoothed and repinned until the body laid flat. I have a garment steamer that I went over the whole body, manipulating some of the cables where I was not happy with how they were looking. I then gave it one last good steaming and left it to dry. It looked pretty good when dry. I then picked up the stitches for the back so that was one less seam to do. Knit the back, did a 3 needle bind off for the shoulders and am going to block again before seaming the right and left fronts.


Thanks for that, I have 12" for each front (button band edges) and the same for the top back, I have 9" for top fronts. I knit extra on the bottom cos my daughter likes some length to her tops and that measures 25" Ive left live stitches for my shoulders so i can do a 3 needle bind off but Ill have to pick up the back like in the pattern. Im knitting the 34" do you think those measurements sound ok?


----------



## catlover1960

I also made the 34" and your measurements look good to me. I quickly measured mine but do not have it pinned yet. My measurement were 11 1/2" for front bands, 12" for the back and 9" across for the top fronts. I will pin it out later today and block again before sewing the fronts to the body and can give you better measurements then. I have an appt. in about an hour and don't have the time right now. Hope this helps.


----------



## janwalla

catlover1960 said:


> I also made the 34" and your measurements look good to me. I quickly measured mine but do not have it pinned yet. My measurement were 11 1/2" for front bands, 12" for the back and 9" across for the top fronts. I will pin it out later today and block again before sewing the fronts to the body and can give you better measurements then. I have an appt. in about an hour and don't have the time right now. Hope this helps.


Thats brilliant! thank you sooo much. Ill steam it now (carefully) lol


----------



## Carolinesol

janwalla said:


> I bought it off Ebay its supposed to be a china pink but it looks more like a peach with bits of white slubby bits. Its made by copley and called cotton on to linen. I bought 30 balls for less than a £1 a ball. I didnt like it for this pattern, but my daughter wanted me to knit her this cardi in it. However, Ill still have enough to make a cotton summer top in it hopefully!!


Thanks for that. I had trouble finding affordable yarn here, I would have liked cotton/ acrylic but had to get a wool mix and it makes me itch. Maybe next time I will try harder to get yarn I like. I am very limited here sometimes even eBay won't post here. Looking forward to seeing a picture.


----------



## Carole-Jayne

Carolinesol said:


> Thanks for that. I had trouble finding affordable yarn here, I would have liked cotton/ acrylic but had to get a wool mix and it makes me itch. Maybe next time I will try harder to get yarn I like. I am very limited here sometimes even eBay won't post here. Looking forward to seeing a picture.


Oh I hear you! I was a Brit, now I live in Nova Scotia and there is only one LYS in the entire province (3hrs away) I do use ICE yarns. They come Turkey - yarn is cheap but of course the postage bumps it up, but you might want to give it a try.
cj


----------



## janwalla

Carolinesol said:


> Thanks for that. I had trouble finding affordable yarn here, I would have liked cotton/ acrylic but had to get a wool mix and it makes me itch. Maybe next time I will try harder to get yarn I like. I am very limited here sometimes even eBay won't post here. Looking forward to seeing a picture.


Should be no problem if they use Royal Mail. Because it says its the isle of white they think its one of the Outer Hebrides oroverseas.lol

Try Kemps wool shop they deliver no problem! They are always having clearance sales, yarns from 89p per ball. 
take a look its one of my local wool shops. They dont do "designer" wools like debbie bliss, lorna laces, etc, but have most of the known brands like wendy, patons etc,

http://kempswoolshop.com/wool_specials.aspx

Im going tomorrow to buy a new mobile phone, my other one has packed up cant complain ive had it for 8yrs!! but I cant post pictures anymore. Ive got them saved on a micro SD card so hopefully i can use it in a new phone!! lol ( AAAgghhh technology)


----------



## Carolinesol

janwalla said:


> Should be no problem if they use Royal Mail. Because it says its the isle of white they think its one of the Outer Hebrides oroverseas.lol
> 
> Try Kemps wool shop they deliver no problem! They are always having clearance sales, yarns from 89p per ball.
> take a look its one of my local wool shops. They dont do "designer" wools like debbie bliss, lorna laces, etc, but have most of the known brands like wendy, patons etc,
> 
> http://kempswoolshop.com/wool_specials.aspx
> 
> Im going tomorrow to buy a new mobile phone, my other one has packed up cant complain ive had it for 8yrs!! but I cant post pictures anymore. Ive got them saved on a micro SD card so hopefully i can use it in a new phone!! lol ( AAAgghhh technology)


Tell me about it... We get quite cross when it says they will not deliver here, I usually get my way though as they don't want bad feed back !
I will give kemps a look. Hope you get a new phone ok.


----------



## gdhavens

O.K., I just went back to the original thread "Does anyone recognize this" started in November. There were 111 posts requesting the pattern in just the first 15 pages, not including mine and Oh Donna's. Is everyone that showed an interest knitting this???? Just curious. 

Now I have to stop avoiding it and get busy doing cooking and cleaning!!!


----------



## Carolinesol

gdhavens said:


> O.K., I just went back to the original thread "Does anyone recognize this" started in November. There were 111 posts requesting the pattern in just the first 15 pages, not including mine and Oh Donna's. Is everyone that showed an interest knitting this???? Just curious.
> 
> Now I have to stop avoiding it and get busy doing cooking and cleaning!!!


I made it and enjoyed every minute... Well nearly every minute. Very pleased with the result.


----------



## Erica Patberg

Not a stupid question at all. I found it easiest to block by folding the cardigan fronts in towards the middle. Because of the waist shaping you don't want to flatten the body completely when it's laid out flat.


janwalla said:


> Sorry for a stupid question but how do you block the body? I have started to pin it out and have got the waist measurement correct but now the hip shaping is puckering I haven't wet it yet cos i thought id pin it out then spritz it. I am using a 40%cotton, 12% linen and 48% acrylic yarn blend. Didnt want to wet through cos of the acrylic bit. Ive also never blocked an adult size thing before, I usually just knit it, sew it together then wear it!! lol


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## beaz

gdhavens said:


> O.K., I just went back to the original thread "Does anyone recognize this" started in November. There were 111 posts requesting the pattern in just the first 15 pages, not including mine and Oh Donna's. Is everyone that showed an interest knitting this???? Just curious.
> 
> Now I have to stop avoiding it and get busy doing cooking and cleaning!!!


I am still working on it-ready to put in lifeline for Chart B - wouldn't have ever got this far without all of you who have helped and encouraged me.


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## sewnhair

Hi everyone .... You are all AMAZING!!!! I am following along every few days, and all questions are answered so quickly that I don't even have to ask mine cuz you've already answered them!

Maryann, your body piece looks fantastic! 

I have just finished my first repeat of chart B ...

Erica, you are an absolute genius ... the Cable Crossing Cheat Sheet is proof!! I didn't understand it til I got to that point, then tada!! Light bulb moment --- clear as a cloudless sky!! 
THANK YOU!!!! THANK YOU!!!! THANK YOU!!!!


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## RobbiD

beaz said:


> I am still working on it-ready to put in lifeline for Chart B - wouldn't have ever got this far without all of you who have helped and encouraged me.


I'm glad it seems to be going easier for you, beaz. I finished my second sleeve, so thought I would be all done. NOT. Gonna be jumpin' back into the frog pond tomorrow. I-cord is comin' off. I still have the puckers on the bottom front and decided I must have done the i-cord too tight. So, beaz, I'll still be keeping you company :lol:


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## RobbiD

Kissnntell said:


> the shawl is one of Stevieland's on Ravalery. i have 2 of hers


Kissnntell, that is a beautiful pattern. I can't believe that you couldn't do this sweater with your eyes closed, if you can make shawls like this one!!! I'll be looking for you to post a picture of it when it's done. I'm jealous.


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## RobbiD

catlover1960 said:


> I'm not good at blocking either, but this is how I did mine. The yarn I used is 100% acrylic. My blocking board has 1" squares on it. I pinned it to size as best I could and tried to smooth the pucker as best I could. I did not stretch the body but smoothed and repinned until the body laid flat. I have a garment steamer that I went over the whole body, manipulating some of the cables where I was not happy with how they were looking. I then gave it one last good steaming and left it to dry. It looked pretty good when dry. I then picked up the stitches for the back so that was one less seam to do. Knit the back, did a 3 needle bind off for the shoulders and am going to block again before seaming the right and left fronts.


I'm like Janwalla. A knit it, sew it, wear it type of person. I was always under the impression that man made yarns did not require blocking. So, if you don't mind, Catlover1960, I have a couple of questions for you and any one else more familiar with blocking than I.
How wet did you let the fabric get? I don't have a garment steamer, I used a steam iron, held above, not touching, the knitting. I'm thinking I didn't get enough steam into the fabric. Is it possible to re-block after assembling the sweater? Will this need to be done every time the sweater is washed? I'm thinking that I need to block again, if it can be done with the pieces all together. I also did a 3-needle bind off for the shoulders, picked up the stitches for the top back, and did top down sleeves, so taking it all apart would mean a whole lot of frogging and re-knitting. :shock:
I think I'm getting a case of "over-thinking" *after* the fact :roll:


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## beaz

RobbiD said:


> I'm like Janwalla. A knit it, sew it, wear it type of person. I was always under the impression that man made yarns did not require blocking. So, if you don't mind, Catlover1960, I have a couple of questions for you and any one else more familiar with blocking than I.
> How wet did you let the fabric get? I don't have a garment steamer, I used a steam iron, held above, not touching, the knitting. I'm thinking I didn't get enough steam into the fabric. Is it possible to re-block after assembling the sweater? Will this need to be done every time the sweater is washed? I'm thinking that I need to block again, if it can be done with the pieces all together. I also did a 3-needle bind off for the shoulders, picked up the stitches for the top back, and did top down sleeves, so taking it all apart would mean a whole lot of frogging and re-knitting. :shock:
> I think I'm getting a case of "over-thinking" *after* the fact :roll:


I have read you could lay out your pieces on a damp towel, pin it, steam if you wish and just pat into place...let it dry. Supposedly, once the acryllic is blocked, it should not need reblocking after washing. I am also using acryllic. I have used the steam iron too and it worked out fine. Tomorrow I will start with the short rows...so I will probably see you in the frog pond (oh, I did put in a lifeline). Check out this site for acryllic steam blocking: http://beadknitter.blogspot.com/2009/03/you-can-block-acrylic.html


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## charlenekbenton

Wow....I just checked out the beadknitter.blogspot.com Beaz posted....what an eye opener! Thanks for posting this, Beaz.


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## beaz

charlenekbenton said:


> Wow....I just checked out the beadknitter.blogspot.com Beaz posted....what an eye opener! Thanks for posting this, Beaz.


You are quite welcome


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## debbieh63

gdhavens said:


> O.K., I just went back to the original thread "Does anyone recognize this" started in November. There were 111 posts requesting the pattern in just the first 15 pages, not including mine and Oh Donna's. Is everyone that showed an interest knitting this???? Just curious.
> 
> Now I have to stop avoiding it and get busy doing cooking and cleaning!!!


I am slowly knitting this. Just started on chart B. :thumbup:


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## debbieh63

beaz said:


> I am still working on it-ready to put in lifeline for Chart B - wouldn't have ever got this far without all of you who have helped and encouraged me.


You are moving along at "full steam". You should be finished in no time at all 

And THANKS! for the link on blocking, I have never done this before.


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## janwalla

Erica Patberg said:


> Not a stupid question at all. I found it easiest to block by folding the cardigan fronts in towards the middle. Because of the waist shaping you don't want to flatten the body completely when it's laid out flat.


Duh!! I never thought to do that. I just kept looking at everyone elses pictures and followed that. It would have been so much easier too! Well hopefully it will turn out ok. I started the sleeves last night and instead of doing the hem thingy, I knit a cable edge so i hope it turns out ok. Will post pics when i get my new phone. (and learn how to use it :lol: :lol: )


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## RobbiD

beaz said:


> I have read you could lay out your pieces on a damp towel, pin it, steam if you wish and just pat into place...let it dry. Supposedly, once the acryllic is blocked, it should not need reblocking after washing. I am also using acryllic. I have used the steam iron too and it worked out fine. Tomorrow I will start with the short rows...so I will probably see you in the frog pond (oh, I did put in a lifeline). Check out this site for acryllic steam blocking: http://beadknitter.blogspot.com/2009/03/you-can-block-acrylic.html


Thanks for the link beaz. Gonna be frogging the i-cord later today, and am gonna try re-blocking before tackling the i-cord again.
The shadow wrap short row link you posted is a gem. I think you will have less trouble with the short rows than I did. Although the German short rows weren't that difficult, I like the shadow wrap better. 
I think it may be psychological, but after I put in a life line, I didn't have to frog as much :wink:


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## catlover1960

RobbiD said:


> I'm like Janwalla. A knit it, sew it, wear it type of person. I was always under the impression that man made yarns did not require blocking. So, if you don't mind, Catlover1960, I have a couple of questions for you and any one else more familiar with blocking than I.
> How wet did you let the fabric get? I don't have a garment steamer, I used a steam iron, held above, not touching, the knitting. I'm thinking I didn't get enough steam into the fabric. Is it possible to re-block after assembling the sweater? Will this need to be done every time the sweater is washed? I'm thinking that I need to block again, if it can be done with the pieces all together. I also did a 3-needle bind off for the shoulders, picked up the stitches for the top back, and did top down sleeves, so taking it all apart would mean a whole lot of frogging and re-knitting. :shock:
> I think I'm getting a case of "over-thinking" *after* the fact :roll:


RobbiD, after blocking the sweater body it was just barely damp. I read the blocking link that Beaz posted and that is basically what I did. I steamed the piece and manipulated the cables until I was happy with them. I then steamed the whole piece and let it dry. It took about an hour since it was not very wet. If you look at the link Beaz posted, the blocking board she used looks just like mine. I love the 1" markings. My steamer is nothing fancy, got it at Target for less than $30. It was the first time I used the steamer. Usually I will pin a piece out to size and spray with a spray bottle, pat gently to smooth and let dry. I wanted the steamer specifically for this sweater as I will be making more than one.

I have some questions for you about the top down sleeves. I have watched the videos and am a little confused as to how many stitches to pick up. I'm making the 34. In the video she had a big loop of dark yarn that I never quite understood. Would a stitch marker work instead of the loop of yarn. When picking up your stitches for the sleeve, what weight of yarn did you use for the contrast?


----------



## beaz

Help! I need some hand holding. Put in lifeline, completed row 1 on Chart b, knit the stockinette stitches, and am so confused. At that point, I am supposed to do 44 sts and turn and work back to end (it puts me back to the stockinette? If I am going back and forth on the right side, how do I get to the left to start short rows?? 
Am I cutting yarn and starting the short rows?


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## mom2grif

beaz said:


> Help! I need some hand holding. Put in lifeline, completed row 1 on Chart b, knit the stockinette stitches, and am so confused. At that point, I am supposed to do 44 sts and turn and work back to end (it puts me back to the stockinette? If I am going back and forth on the right side, how do I get to the left to start short rows??
> Am I cutting yarn and starting the short rows?


Beaz, after one row of chart B, you should be at the bottom of the sweater ready to start hip shaping, and on the wrong side of the work. On the wrong side, knit/purl the 44 stitches from the marker. Do you favorite turn method and turn and knitting on the right side return to the bottom of the sweater (the stockinette bottom). Turn and knitting on wrong side, knit/purl 34 stitches. Turn (wrap/German/Japanese) and knit back to bottom of work. Clear as mud?


----------



## RobbiD

catlover1960 said:


> RobbiD, after blocking the sweater body it was just barely damp. I read the blocking link that Beaz posted and that is basically what I did. I steamed the piece and manipulated the cables until I was happy with them. I then steamed the whole piece and let it dry. It took about an hour since it was not very wet. If you look at the link Beaz posted, the blocking board she used looks just like mine. I love the 1" markings. My steamer is nothing fancy, got it at Target for less than $30. It was the first time I used the steamer. Usually I will pin a piece out to size and spray with a spray bottle, pat gently to smooth and let dry. I wanted the steamer specifically for this sweater as I will be making more than one.
> 
> I have some questions for you about the top down sleeves. I have watched the videos and am a little confused as to how many stitches to pick up. I'm making the 34. In the video she had a big loop of dark yarn that I never quite understood. Would a stitch marker work instead of the loop of yarn. When picking up your stitches for the sleeve, what weight of yarn did you use for the contrast?


Hi Catlover. Thanks for the steaming info. I will have to check out an inexpensive steamer. That iron gets * heavy*.
I didn't use the contrast thread like she did. The way I understood the video,it was to be able to tighten up the picked up stitches around the armhole. Mine were pretty tight to begin with. I just figured I would tighten, by hand (darning needle and yarn) if necessary. I think she used a contrasting color to be able to find the picked up stitches easier, as she knitted it into the p/u sts, then dropped it during the first short row. If you use it, I would definitely use a lighter weight yarn, or even crochet cotton. I picked up 72 sts around the armhole, for a 36/38. I went by how it looked, as well as number of stitches. I used the stitch count from the pattern as a guide, but changed the count when it appeared to leave a lot of holes. I used stitch markers for the division of the stitches into 6 sections plus the underarm, and a different color marker to indicate the center of the underarm. I decreased one stitch before the marker, knit the stitch after the marker, then decreased in the stitch after that. It kept the decreases evenly spaced at the point where a seam would have been (I think). I knit 2" even, then I decreased 2x's at every 10th round, then 8x's at every 8th round, then 2 x's at every 10th round until 46 sts left. My sleeves are long, though. They hit just a little past the first knuckle of my thumb. I like my sleeves long. They are a pretty slim sleeve, so if you like a roomier sleeve, you may want to p/u more stitches and/or do fewer decreases. I did an i-cord around the hem of the sleeves, instead of turning back and sewing, from the live stitches. That way I didn't have to p/u any stitches. Saved a step.
My goodness, I get long-winded!  Hope this helps.


----------



## catlover1960

beaz said:


> Help! I need some hand holding. Put in lifeline, completed row 1 on Chart b, knit the stockinette stitches, and am so confused. At that point, I am supposed to do 44 sts and turn and work back to end (it puts me back to the stockinette? If I am going back and forth on the right side, how do I get to the left to start short rows??
> Am I cutting yarn and starting the short rows?


Beaz, you do not need to cut your yarn. When you turn your work you will end up back at the stockinette stitches. You will work several more of these short rows, ending up back at the stockinette stitches. After doing all of the required hip shaping short rows, you will work a row all the way to the right side for bust shaping short rows. The row that you work all the way across will be a WS row. When you complete the required bust shaping short rows, you will work a row all the way across to the left side for more hip shaping. The row you work all the way across after the bust shaping will be a RS row. You will continue zigzagging across until you complete all of the hip and bust shaping. The cheat sheet shows the short rows and then the row where you go all the way across. The red dots are where you will do a cable. All of the cable crossings will happen on the RS of the fabric you are creating.


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## catlover1960

RobbiD, Thanks for all of the sleeve info. My first sweater is for my 16y niece. She is very tall and thin so the longer sleeve should work for her.


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## beaz

mom2grif said:


> Beaz, after one row of chart B, you should be at the bottom of the sweater ready to start hip shaping, and on the wrong side of the work. On the wrong side, knit/purl the 44 stitches from the marker. Do you favorite turn method and turn and knitting on the right side return to the bottom of the sweater (the stockinette bottom). Turn and knitting on wrong side, knit/purl 34 stitches. Turn (wrap/German/Japanese) and knit back to bottom of work. Clear as mud?


So my marker has 12 sts after it, I purl 44 stitches from this. I have never done the turn method-Is that what it is called, I will have to research this. I don't understand if I an going back and forth increasing the row count, how can I get back to the bottom of work?


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## Oh Donna

beaz said:


> Help! I need some hand holding. Put in lifeline, completed row 1 on Chart b, knit the stockinette stitches, and am so confused. At that point, I am supposed to do 44 sts and turn and work back to end (it puts me back to the stockinette? If I am going back and forth on the right side, how do I get to the left to start short rows??
> Am I cutting yarn and starting the short rows?


Hello beaz,
here to hold out a hand, just be forewarned, you may find me a blind leading your blind. That's ok--I think it was Darla taught herself to knit in the dark, so if she can do it, so can we!
row 1 on chart b (in stockinette) puts you to the "bottom " edge of the sweater, yes? So now you turn your work and start purling back the 44 stitches (past the marker) and NOW you do the wrap&turn, german short row or shaddow turn or whichever one you're going to do and stockinette back to the bottom of the sweater, then turn and purl up 34 stitches, turn and come back, etc.
I hope this helps, AND I'm sharing this from memory--I hope I'm not wrong. If I am, then someone jump in and tell beaz so, so she doesn't get overwhelmed again, and if so, then I will apologize to you, beaz.
I think this is a pattern that is full of seemingly insurmountable leaps but once we make them we look back we all go, "Oh! I get it and I can do it and I did it and that was easy". At least that's how I'm experiencing it and I'm only barely to the center back.
Good luck and hang in there.


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## Oh Donna

Oh, and this IS the short rows!!!!
And no, don't cut anything!


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## catlover1960

beaz said:


> So my marker has 12 sts after it, I purl 44 stitches from this. I have never done the turn method-Is that what it is called, I will have to research this. I don't understand if I an going back and forth increasing the row count, how can I get back to the bottom of work?


Beaz, When you turn, this is where you will need to use the shadow wrap technique that you provided us with. I used this method when I completed the upper back and it works very well. I wish I had known about this when working the body.


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## RobbiD

beaz said:


> Help! I need some hand holding. Put in lifeline, completed row 1 on Chart b, knit the stockinette stitches, and am so confused. At that point, I am supposed to do 44 sts and turn and work back to end (it puts me back to the stockinette? If I am going back and forth on the right side, how do I get to the left to start short rows??
> Am I cutting yarn and starting the short rows?


Hi beaz. As you complete the set of short rows, you will do a *full* row as the last row. That will take you to the opposite end of your work. For example, you do your 44 sts, turn, work back to end of row, your 34 st short row, turn work back to end, do your 24 st short row, turn work back,then the 14 sts short row, turn work back, your next row will go all of the way across and set you up to begin the bust shaping. When all the bust short rows are done, the last row of the shaping will be worked all the way back to the hip shaping side. On the hip shaping, remember to count the stitches _after_ the marker for the short rows. If it helps any, I placed markers at the beginning of each shaping, in the appropriate place (44 sts, 34 sts, 24 sts, 14 sts) so I would know where to turn the short row without having to count each row. I would remove the marker when I did my turn. You will notice as you go along, that the short rows all turn in the second st after a cable (the cable ditch). Hope this helped


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## beaz

Oh Donna said:


> Oh, and this IS the short rows!!!!
> And no, don't cut anything!


Ok, I worked 43 stitches and did the shadow wrap on the 44th and turned, right? I worked across those 44 stitches but do I work the stockinette to the end too? Sorry for being so dense but I need to analyze before I do so I can work it out.


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## Oh Donna

beaz said:


> Let me get this right, I purl the 12 stitches before the marker and purl another 44?


Yes! and then turn and stockinette back to the bottom edge.

Your light bulb is going to go on full blast any second--I'm going to go get my sunglasses. Yes! yes! yes!  :-D


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## RobbiD

catlover1960 said:


> Beaz, When you turn, this is where you will need to use the shadow wrap technique that you provided us with. I used this method when I completed the upper back and it works very well. I wish I had known about this when working the body.


Beaz, the 12 stitches to the left of the marker are done in stockinette (don't forget the decreases in this section), you will count the stitches _past_ the marker for your short rows. For example: purl 12 sts, slip marker, pattern 44 sts, work shadow wrap and turn, pattern to marker, knit 12 sts. purl 12 sts, slip marker, pattern 34 sts, work shadow wrap and turn, pattern to marker, slip marker knit 12 sts. Hope this helps.


----------



## RobbiD

catlover1960 said:


> RobbiD, Thanks for all of the sleeve info. My first sweater is for my 16y niece. She is very tall and thin so the longer sleeve should work for her.


Welcome :lol:


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## mom2grif

Beaz, you will be working in pattern for the short rows! Not stockinette. You only work stockinette in the stitches below the stitch marker. Look at the written instructions also for the instructions that say At the same time decrease on every right side in the stockinette section.


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## beaz

RobbiD said:


> Beaz, the 12 stitches to the left of the marker are done in stockinette (don't forget the decreases in this section), you will count the stitches _past_ the marker for your short rows. For example: purl 12 sts, slip marker, pattern 44 sts, work shadow wrap and turn, pattern to marker, knit 12 sts. purl 12 sts, slip marker, pattern 34 sts, work shadow wrap and turn, pattern to marker, slip marker knit 12 sts. Hope this helps.


Here comes froggie, I forgot decreases. thanks for the reminder


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## Oh Donna

beaz said:


> Ok, I worked 43 stitches and did the shadow wrap on the 44th and turned, right? I worked across those 44 stitches but do I work the stockinette to the end too? Sorry for being so dense but I need to analyze before I do so I can work it out.


not sure if it's shadow wrap on the 43rd--it might be to do 44 and then work the wrap---whatever is in the middle of those two purl stitches.....and then Mom2grif is right; as you work your way back to the bottom edge, you are not just stockinetting, but every time you come to those 2 purls in between the cables and plain sections, you purl them. And on the purl side every time you come to the 2 knit ones, you knit them too, and go beck to mostly purl.


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## Oh Donna

I mean "back"


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## judsretired

I am knitting this wonderful cardigan for my granddaughter and she does not want the cables across the back.
My question is, has anyone knitted this with just stockinette on the back? If you have how did it look and do you have a picture of it?
I am ready to start the back and don't want to mess up the look of the sweater, but I also want my granddaughter to love it and wear the sweater. What do you all think?


----------



## Marienkaeferoma

judsretired said:


> I am knitting this wonderful cardigan for my granddaughter and she does not want the cables across the back.
> My question is, has anyone knitted this with just stockinette on the back? If you have how did it look and do you have a picture of it?
> I am ready to start the back and don't want to mess up the look of the sweater, but I also want my granddaughter to love it and wear the sweater. What do you all think?


I, too, would like to know if this is possible.


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## RobbiD

beaz said:


> Ok, I worked 43 stitches and did the shadow wrap on the 44th and turned, right? I worked across those 44 stitches but do I work the stockinette to the end too? Sorry for being so dense but I need to analyze before I do so I can work it out.


You're not being dense! When you get back to the marker, you will do those stitches, to the left of the marker, in stockinette. And, yes, you did the shadow wrap and turn correctly on the 44th stitch. 
Having an analytical mind can be quite a burden (coming from one who has one :roll: )


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## RobbiD

beaz said:


> Here comes froggie, I forgot decreases. thanks for the reminder


Your froggie can play with my froggie. Just frogged the entire i-cord, and am attempting to re-block. It's awkward with the whole thing put together, but I think it's turning out better. My only conundrum is blocking the sleeves. But....where there is a will....there is a way. Right? :-D


----------



## RobbiD

judsretired said:


> I am knitting this wonderful cardigan for my granddaughter and she does not want the cables across the back.
> My question is, has anyone knitted this with just stockinette on the back? If you have how did it look and do you have a picture of it?
> I am ready to start the back and don't want to mess up the look of the sweater, but I also want my granddaughter to love it and wear the sweater. What do you all think?


Hi judsretired. I don't think anyone has done without the cables across the back, but don't see why it can't be done. My only concerns would be a stockinette stitch that runs sideways stretching or sagging. Maybe that wouldn't be a problem. You could always do the fronts as 2 separate pieces--from the cast on to the middle of the underarm, then bind off, Then work a back top piece that goes all the way down (or up) the back, and sew the pieces together as a sweater would normally be assembled. I'm not too sure how you would incorporate the hip and bust shapeings though. I actually was toying with that idea for my next try at this sweater, along with maybe making it a vest, or short sleeved (in cotton or linen) for a more spring/summer sweater. It's amazing what goes through your mind when you are frogging hours of work when you should be finished.


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## gdhavens

beaz said:


> Ok, I worked 43 stitches and did the shadow wrap on the 44th and turned, right? I worked across those 44 stitches but do I work the stockinette to the end too? Sorry for being so dense but I need to analyze before I do so I can work it out.


For the hip shaping, after each short row, you will turn your piece, then work all the stitches in the row to the very end of the row. When you turn your work again, you will be looking at the WS and do the next short row.

After you have completed all the short row shaping for the hip, you will work one row all the way across the piece (this will be a WS row) and you will then be ready to do the bust short row shaping.

I hope this helps.


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## gdhavens

I believe the original picture that started this whole journey didn't have the cables around the back but had a side seam.

If I were going to try the non-cabled back, I think I would see if I could find a sweater in the same weight yarn as I was using and with the same gauge as I was knitting. I would use the pattern for the back of this sweater as a guide. I would then knit our pattern until you get past the bound off section of the bust shaping, and the 2 stitch decreases. This is where it could get tricky. You will want to work as many rows as would equal the same measurement as the bound off stitches of the back to start the back shaping. You would do this for both the right and left sides of the front. Then you would use the other pattern for the back, having the edges, where your side seams would come, the same length as the ends of the front pieces. I am not a designer, but I have thought of this a bit as I was wondering about the weight of the cables across the back.

You would also have to consider how you would deal with the bottom of the back. Do an Icord all the way around, or just across the back and attach it to the front part? Just do a few rows, then a turning row, like the sleeves?

Just an idea.


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## catlover1960

I thought I would post this picture since there was so much discussion earlier about blocking. I just reblocked my sweater after doing the upper back and the 3 needle bind off. I wanted nice smooth edges for sewing the fronts to the body. At the top of the picture you can see my hand held steamer. I did pin the lower edge of the body and steamed it again also in hopes that it will make the I-cord easier.


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## Flybreit

beaz said:


> Help! I need some hand holding. Put in lifeline, completed row 1 on Chart b, knit the stockinette stitches, and am so confused. At that point, I am supposed to do 44 sts and turn and work back to end (it puts me back to the stockinette? If I am going back and forth on the right side, how do I get to the left to start short rows??
> Am I cutting yarn and starting the short rows?


Beaz, I'm sure by now you have the short rows figured out, and the stockinette decreases...just be sure you keep track of your cable crossings! Failing to do that caused me quite a bit of frogging (word of advice: don't try to knit this when you're sleepy!).

Some used a marker or their cable needle in the section where the cable crossing would be. I copied and pasted the cable crossing sections into my pattern instructions. Any method that works 

And thanks for the shadow wrap instructions - love it!


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## mom2grif

Without going through all of these pages, I don't know if someone has already posted this. But the second cable crossing in the next to the last last hip shaping is marked in the wrong place. It should be on the 3rd short row, not the 4th. I'll PM Erica with this info too. I have the last edition of Erica's pattern.

This is on the left hip shaping.


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## Jill2

Susan....are you referring to the right hip shaping?

That red dot is 10 rows above the previous cable crossing, which is correct isn't it?

On the right hip shaping, the cable crossings along the bottom edge (far left) are all done in the RS leg of the fourth short row.


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## beaz

I am about finished with the 1st hip shaping and I do not like the way the decreases are showing up. Is there any reason why the K2 tog couldn't be closer to the stockinett start rather than at the last 5 stitches? I have been going back to look at other pics and mine seem much more obvious, it is just out there and looks out of place. IGNORE THIS ONE, I TRIED TO EDIT ON THE NEXT


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## beaz

I am about finished with the 1st hip shaping and I do not like the way the decreases are showing up. Is there any reason why the K2 tog couldn't be closer to the stockinette start rather than at the last 5 stitches? I have been going back to look at other pics and mine seem much more obvious, it is just out there and looks out of place.


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## mom2grif

Left hip shaping, Jill


----------



## mom2grif

beaz said:


> I am about finished with the 1st hip shaping and I do not like the way the decreases are showing up. Is there any reason why the K2 tog couldn't be closer to the stockinette start rather than at the last 5 stitches? I have been going back to look at other pics and mine seem much more obvious, it is just out there and looks out of place.


Beaz, this is meant to mimic the I-cord finishing around the front of the sweater. It starts at the point of these decreases. It'll look right when you've done more.


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## Jill2

mom2grif said:


> Left hip shaping, Jill


Sorry....my error by referring to the right hip shaping.

You're right!

I was looking at the original cheat sheet and it's correct on that one.

Heads up guys! Susan's on the ball! :thumbup:


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## mom2grif

Beaz, here's a close up of my decreases.


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## mom2grif

Jill2 said:


> Sorry....my error by referring to the right hip shaping.
> 
> You're right!
> 
> I was looking at the original cheat sheet and it's correct on that one.
> 
> Heads up guys! Susan's on the ball! :thumbup:


I meant to refer to the left shaping in my original comment but didn't thanks for catching that, Jill!


----------



## beaz

mom2grif said:


> Beaz, this is meant to mimic the I-cord finishing around the front of the sweater. It starts at the point of these decreases. It'll look right when you've done more.


Ok, thanks - I will go on


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## Jill2

mom2grif said:


> I meant to refer to the left shaping in my original comment but didn't thanks for catching that, Jill!


Susan, do you think you could work your magic and post a picture of the cheat sheet pointing out the error and the correction?
I'd do it, but your computer skills leave me in the dust!


----------



## mom2grif

Jill2 said:


> Susan, do you think you could work your magic and post a picture of the cheat sheet pointing out the error and the correction?
> I'd do it, but your computer skills leave me in the dust!


Your wish is my command, Jill!


----------



## RobbiD

beaz said:


> I am about finished with the 1st hip shaping and I do not like the way the decreases are showing up. Is there any reason why the K2 tog couldn't be closer to the stockinette start rather than at the last 5 stitches? I have been going back to look at other pics and mine seem much more obvious, it is just out there and looks out of place.


Mine didn't look all that great either. After mine was blocked they looked much better. Maybe they looked less out of place when the left side increases were done, too. They mirror those decreases. I think the reason they are at the last 5 stitches is to kind of showcase the change in the direction that the stockinette stitches run. Kind of on an angle, and following the line of the cables? If they were nearer to the marker, I think that the angled stockinette would be less apparent. Maybe?


----------



## Jill2

mom2grif said:


> Your wish is my command, Jill!


Great! Good Job! Thanks a bunch!


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## Oh Donna

Jill2 and Susan,
Thank you for catching this, pointing it out and making such a clear note of it on the cheat sheet.
You guys are on the ball...I can't wait to get that far!
(two rows of chart B left. Would be further, but got waylaid by getting involved in making 4 church banners...)


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## beaz

Jill2 said:


> Great! Good Job! Thanks a bunch!


Thank you, I didn't realize that I did not have this part. You do good work!


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## sewnhair

Hi everyone! I am still working on my 4 repeats of Chart B, but I have a question about Chart C....at what point do I start the left hip & bust shaping and armhole decreases?

It seems that 4 repeats of B and 4 repeats of C would make the back awfully wide, am I missing something? Or just not understanding? 

Thanks,
Peggy


----------



## gdhavens

Sewnhair, what size are you making? I made the next to largest size and the back is wide on me, but I haven't blocked it. Of course, the cables are the whole back and flare slightly around the hips because of the short row shaping. I will see.

I am on the second sleeve, top down, knit in. I can't wait to block the sweater and see how it looks finished and on!


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## RobbiD

sewnhair said:


> Hi everyone! I am still working on my 4 repeats of Chart B, but I have a question about Chart C....at what point do I start the left hip & bust shaping and armhole decreases?
> 
> It seems that 4 repeats of B and 4 repeats of C would make the back awfully wide, am I missing something? Or just not understanding?
> 
> Thanks,
> Peggy


Hi Peggy. If you are doing 4 repeats of B, you will do 4 repeats of C then rows 1-8 of C again, then shapings. I am doing a 36/38 hybrid, and did 4 repeats of B and 4 of C, and the back is not too wide. I would caution you, however, to measure your work before you start chart C. I still don't know how it happened, but my first body piece *grew*. Even with having swatched to gauge on size 6 needles, the body was 5" wider than it should have been. I had to frog the whole thing, drop down to a size *4* needle, and start again. I am using acrylic yarn, so couldn't count on blocking to help that much. I do think that when doing the body, the size of the piece is a little misleading because it is the front and back, all in one piece, so it looks a lot larger than it is. If you can picture it just from the armhole cast on toward the center, it may not seem so large. Hope this helped


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## RobbiD

gdhavens said:


> Sewnhair, what size are you making? I made the next to largest size and the back is wide on me, but I haven't blocked it. Of course, the cables are the whole back and flare slightly around the hips because of the short row shaping. I will see.
> 
> I am on the second sleeve, top down, knit in. I can't wait to block the sweater and see how it looks finished and on!


How are your sleeves coming along? Got mine finished the other day and I am pretty happy with the results. I frogged the i-cord and re-blocked yesterday. I still wasn't happy with the look of the i-cord, so frogged again, and am doing it "inside out". I like the way the inside looked better than the outside, so I am doing it "backards". Looks better, so far. If all goes well, I will be DONE. Except for buttons. Haven't gotten any yet  Oh, yeah, gotta try blocking the sleeves today. We are spatially challenged here, so I have to block in stages. (sigh...)


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## debbieh63

Bethe1 said:


> I'm posting pics of my progress so far because I'm unsure of whether to do another repeat of Charts B and C. My bust measurement is 35" and I was planning on making the 36" size but when everyone started talking about their sweaters growing, I decided to make the 34" size. So I've now completed 3 repeats of Chart B and Chart C. I pinned it to my tank top (with the aid of my 10 yr. old assistant) and this is what I've got. Stretched it some too. Do I need to go back and do 4 repeats of each? Ugh.....
> 
> P.S. when I blocked my swatch it grew to the right gauge, but I don't remember the exact amount.


bethe1, look at the back, are your centers all lined up? The bottom two look off to me in your picture.


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## Kissnntell

alrighty, then
got the shaping all done & ready 2 start the next part
any heads up i need 2 kno i may have missed, even tho been following all along?
i do see i missed putting a cross over in one cable, but thats ok, i can fix that when i come 2 it
other than that, been slick-easy!
thx 4 all the help, everyone!!
J~


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## RobbiD

Kissnntell said:


> alrighty, then
> got the shaping all done & ready 2 start the next part
> any heads up i need 2 kno i may have missed, even tho been following all along?
> i do see i missed putting a cross over in one cable, but thats ok, i can fix that when i come 2 it
> other than that, been slick-easy!
> thx 4 all the help, everyone!!
> J~


You go, girl :thumbup: ! Gets easier from this point on.


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## gdhavens

RobbiD, I do like the way these sleeves go in. I just hope that they both look alike when I get finished!!! LOL!!

This whole project has been a learning experience and I have enjoyed it. It definitely isn't perfect, but I hope I feel pleased enough with my finished sweater to post a picture.

I hope that all the others that have made this sweater have enjoyed it as much as I have. I would really like to see pictures! How about it, Lurkers, where are your pictures??? I know there are some out there!!!


----------



## beaz

RobbiD said:


> Hi Peggy. If you are doing 4 repeats of B, you will do 4 repeats of C then rows 1-8 of C again, then shapings. I am doing a 36/38 hybrid, and did 4 repeats of B and 4 of C, and the back is not too wide. I would caution you, however, to measure your work before you start chart C. I still don't know how it happened, but my first body piece *grew*. Even with having swatched to gauge on size 6 needles, the body was 5" wider than it should have been. I had to frog the whole thing, drop down to a size *4* needle, and start again. I am using acrylic yarn, so couldn't count on blocking to help that much. I do think that when doing the body, the size of the piece is a little misleading because it is the front and back, all in one piece, so it looks a lot larger than it is. If you can picture it just from the armhole cast on toward the center, it may not seem so large. Hope this helped


Where in the pattern does it say 4 repeats of B, the most repeats I see are 3. Are you talking about the pattern repetiions of 4?


----------



## Jill2

I'll be wrapping mine up today.
Have knit the sleeves 3 times....third time is the charm they say!

I love the top down sleeve method!

Wll block again and when dry will post some pics.
Right now I'm very pleased with the outcome and another blocking can only make it better.


----------



## RobbiD

beaz said:


> Where in the pattern does it say 4 repeats of B, the most repeats I see are 3. Are you talking about the pattern repetiions of 4?


Bottom of page 3, instruction after Bust shaping short rows E. It's labeled "Body Back" Number of repeats varies on the size being made.


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## RobbiD

Jill2 said:


> I'll be wrapping mine up today.
> Have knit the sleeves 3 times....third time is the charm they say!
> 
> I love the top down sleeve method!
> 
> Wll block again and when dry will post some pics.
> Right now I'm very pleased with the outcome and another blocking can only make it better.


I'm anxious to see your final product, Jill. The top down sleeves are the greatest, aren't they?


----------



## debbieh63

Beginning chart B and I have a question about the decreases in the lefthand stockinette border. Do I decrease on row 1 or start on row 3?


----------



## pinsandneedles

Yippee, just finished and now looking for buttons, I just know this is going to be a hit or miss shopping trip. Does anyone have any good on line sources? Did want to tell you all that I put the Icord all the way around because the back seemed to flare out on me and by doing the Icord all around it does lay nicely against the "rump" now. Will post pics soon I hope. Have enjoyed seeing all of yours so far and hope to see many more.


----------



## questmiller

pinsandneedles said:


> Yippee, just finished and now looking for buttons, I just know this is going to be a hit or miss shopping trip. Does anyone have any good on line sources? Did want to tell you all that I put the Icord all the way around because the back seemed to flare out on me and by doing the Icord all around it does lay nicely against the "rump" now. Will post pics soon I hope. Have enjoyed seeing all of yours so far and hope to see many more.


Yay! I look forward to seeing your photos.

I also wanted to jump in and say that I, too, put the I-cord all the way around. For me it was a mis-read' but I really like the way it finished the whole thing off. I did, however, have to add extra stitches to the cord when I went around the edges to help it fit better.


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## sewnhair

Hi Robbi & gdhavens,

I am doing size 38. I have 9 7/8" from the armhole decrease to my needle now and I'm only on row 21 of the 2nd repeat of Chart B (61 rows). My sleeves measured 24 rows to 4". 


Here is my earlier post about my gauge:


"I did my sleeves first, and have finished chart A, all on #8 needles; but now I'm at a standstill. My stitch gauge is good, but the row count is 24 in 4". I did a swatch on #9s and the rows are correct, but the stitch is off. Also, I really like the look of the #8 pieces and concerned that the 9's might look too loose. My yarn is Deborah Norville's Everyday Worsted anti-pill. I have thought about just continuing through the main body piece and see how that fits. Any suggestions?

Erica's response:
Your gauge will also change between stockinette and the cables. The cables will draw the fabric in more and make the row gauge slightly longer. As long as your stockinette gauge is on, and you haven't switched needles you should be ok."

I'm totally confused & don't know what to do. 

Really need some advice!

Thanks, 
Peggy

Duh!!!! I just realized that the charts are just 10 rows each; 4 repeats would be 40 rows --- for some reason I was thinking that I was supposed to do 4 repeats of 40 rows per chart. I don't know how I came up with that!! :roll: :roll: :roll: 

Thanks for listening! 
P


----------



## beaz

I am not sure if I need to frog or not. I have not yet done the first cable yet. All the turns are done and marked and I worked 1 full WS row. I do not know where the WS row relates to the cheatsheet because the knit across all the rows seems to be the last thing and I have not done cables. Is the only cable done after the stockinette or do I follow the pattern and cable across where indicated on chart B? This is what I have so far: is the lifeline supposed to look like this?


----------



## Carolinesol

questmiller said:


> Yay! I look forward to seeing your photos.
> 
> I also wanted to jump in and say that I, too, put the I-cord all the way around. For me it was a mis-read' but I really like the way it finished the whole thing off. I did, however, have to add extra stitches to the cord when I went around the edges to help it fit better.


Hee hee I misread it also and did it all around, but it looks fine I think.


----------



## gdhavens

Where in the pattern does it say 4 repeats of B, the most repeats I see are 3. Are you talking about the pattern repetitions of 4?

For my size, I was supposed to do 6 repeats of Chart B, then 6 of Chart C.

Bottom of page #3 "Body Back" are the different repeats for each size.


----------



## sewnhair

pinsandneedles said:


> Yippee, just finished and now looking for buttons, I just know this is going to be a hit or miss shopping trip. Does anyone have any good on line sources? Did want to tell you all that I put the Icord all the way around because the back seemed to flare out on me and by doing the Icord all around it does lay nicely against the "rump" now. Will post pics soon I hope. Have enjoyed seeing all of yours so far and hope to see many more.


Fantastic!!! Have fun button shopping! Can't wait to see your photos!


----------



## gdhavens

Beaz

On page 87, posted by me on April 29, I tried to explain the short row cheat sheet and said where you should cable. The cheat sheet tells you to do a cable on the return row after doing the 14 st. short row in the first hip shaping, then you work all the way across the piece to the upper part of the piece and will be starting your bust shaping A.


----------



## questmiller

beaz said:


> I am not sure if I need to frog or not. I have not yet done the first cable yet. All the turns are done and marked and I worked 1 full WS row. I do not know where the WS row relates to the cheatsheet because the knit across all the rows seems to be the last thing and I have not done cables. Is the only cable done after the stockinette or do I follow the pattern and cable across where indicated on chart B? This is what I have so far: is the lifeline supposed to look like this?


Baez, this is looking real nice. Yes, the life line will look wonky. That's good. According to the cheat sheet, though I think you were supposed to do a cable on the 14 stitch short row. When I did mine, I made sure that I counted the rows between cable crosses as a double check. It's hard to count in the photo, so I'm not sure.
I have found a great fix for messed up cables that doesn't involve frogging rows. IF you have a cable mistake, you simply move your stitches around on your needles (just slip them one by one) to your other needle until you have the offending stitches front and center. Then you drop the stitches from your needles (in this case it would be the 8 cable stitches). Pick up the last row of good stitches to another needle and then work these correctly with the twist. 
It is hard to explain, but here is a video on how to do it http://www.ehow.com/video_4976526_advanced-knitting-fixing-cables-ripping.html


----------



## Carolinesol

questmiller said:


> Baez, this is looking real nice. Yes, the life line will look wonky. That's good. According to the cheat sheet, though I think you were supposed to do a cable on the 14 stitch short row. When I did mine, I made sure that I counted the rows between cable crosses as a double check. It's hard to count in the photo, so I'm not sure.
> I have found a great fix for messed up cables that doesn't involve frogging rows. IF you have a cable mistake, you simply move your stitches around on your needles (just slip them one by one) to your other needle until you have the offending stitches front and center. Then you drop the stitches from your needles (in this case it would be the 8 cable stitches). Pick up the last row of good stitches to another needle and then work these correctly with the twist.
> It is hard to explain, but here is a video on how to do it http://www.ehow.com/video_4976526_advanced-knitting-fixing-cables-ripping.html


That sounds like a great idea.... I would not have thought of doing that.


----------



## RobbiD

debbieh63 said:


> Beginning chart B and I have a question about the decreases in the lefthand stockinette border. Do I decrease on row 1 or start on row 3?


Debbie, I started my decreases on Row 3 ( the return row of the first 44 st short row.


----------



## beaz

Thanks for the video but I can't play it as it stops more than plays. I will try my husbands computer later. I have frogged back to the lifeline - never used a lifeline before and glad I put one in.


----------



## RobbiD

sewnhair said:


> Hi Robbi & gdhavens,
> 
> I am doing size 38. I have 9 7/8" from the armhole decrease to my needle now and I'm only on row 21 of the 2nd repeat of Chart B (61 rows). My sleeves measured 24 rows to 4".
> 
> Here is my earlier post about my gauge:
> 
> "I did my sleeves first, and have finished chart A, all on #8 needles; but now I'm at a standstill. My stitch gauge is good, but the row count is 24 in 4". I did a swatch on #9s and the rows are correct, but the stitch is off. Also, I really like the look of the #8 pieces and concerned that the 9's might look too loose. My yarn is Deborah Norville's Everyday Worsted anti-pill. I have thought about just continuing through the main body piece and see how that fits. Any suggestions?
> 
> Erica's response:
> Your gauge will also change between stockinette and the cables. The cables will draw the fabric in more and make the row gauge slightly longer. As long as your stockinette gauge is on, and you haven't switched needles you should be ok."
> 
> I'm totally confused & don't know what to do.
> 
> Really need some advice!
> 
> Thanks,
> Peggy
> 
> Duh!!!! I just realized that the charts are just 10 rows each; 4 repeats would be 40 rows --- for some reason I was thinking that I was supposed to do 4 repeats of 40 rows per chart. I don't know how I came up with that!! :roll: :roll: :roll:
> 
> Thanks for listening!
> P


Peggy, the row count on the body is more important than the stitch count. Those extra 3 rows every other repeat, over the entire back really add width to your fabric Even though I swatched with 6's and got the correct stitch AND row count, my body piece was wide enough for my Honey to wear. Mind you he is 8" taller than me and about 50+ pounds heavier than I am :shock: I frogged the whole thing, and started over on size 5's. Still too wide! So dropped down to 4's. They finally worked. The only thing I can figure happened is that I was knitting much tighter for the swatch than I do when actually knitting the sweater. Kind of "trying too hard" type of thing. I KNOW I am a loose knitter, but have never had to drop so many needle sizes before to get the right gauge. You might want to try going down to a size 7 needles to try and get the right row count. Or you might consider making a smaller size? My sweater is a 36/38 hybrid--some pieces from the 36, some from the 38. Seems to fit OK, but no buttons yet.


----------



## RobbiD

gdhavens said:


> RobbiD, I do like the way these sleeves go in. I just hope that they both look alike when I get finished!!! LOL!!
> 
> This whole project has been a learning experience and I have enjoyed it. It definitely isn't perfect, but I hope I feel pleased enough with my finished sweater to post a picture.
> 
> I hope that all the others that have made this sweater have enjoyed it as much as I have. I would really like to see pictures! How about it, Lurkers, where are your pictures??? I know there are some out there!!!


gdhavens, I stopped counting rows after the last decrease on my second sleeve and just measured it against the first one to check the length. Worked like a charm!

Got my i-cord back on, all the way around, inside out. I just need to get buttons and it will be DONE!! YIPPEE!!
  :lol:


----------



## RobbiD

pinsandneedles said:


> Yippee, just finished and now looking for buttons, I just know this is going to be a hit or miss shopping trip. Does anyone have any good on line sources? Did want to tell you all that I put the Icord all the way around because the back seemed to flare out on me and by doing the Icord all around it does lay nicely against the "rump" now. Will post pics soon I hope. Have enjoyed seeing all of yours so far and hope to see many more.


Congrats, pinsandneedles. Enjoy your button shopping. I will be doing the same soon.


----------



## sewnhair

RobbiD said:


> Peggy, the row count on the body is more important than the stitch count. Those extra 3 rows every other repeat, over the entire back really add width to your fabric Even though I swatched with 6's and got the correct stitch AND row count, my body piece was wide enough for my Honey to wear. Mind you he is 8" taller than me and about 50+ pounds heavier than I am :shock: I frogged the whole thing, and started over on size 5's. Still too wide! So dropped down to 4's. They finally worked. The only thing I can figure happened is that I was knitting much tighter for the swatch than I do when actually knitting the sweater. Kind of "trying too hard" type of thing. I KNOW I am a loose knitter, but have never had to drop so many needle sizes before to get the right gauge. You might want to try going down to a size 7 needles to try and get the right row count. Or you might consider making a smaller size? My sweater is a 36/38 hybrid--some pieces from the 36, some from the 38. Seems to fit OK, but no buttons yet.


Thank You Robbi!! I love how quick you are to help out!

Since I've gone this far, I think I'll do the rest of the back (through armhole bind-off), and see how it looks against my bod. If it doesn't work, I'll just jump into the frog pond with both feet!! HeeHee

Maybe do a cannonball splash??? :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Gotta get ready for work. Be back later!!


----------



## RobbiD

beaz said:


> I am not sure if I need to frog or not. I have not yet done the first cable yet. All the turns are done and marked and I worked 1 full WS row. I do not know where the WS row relates to the cheatsheet because the knit across all the rows seems to be the last thing and I have not done cables. Is the only cable done after the stockinette or do I follow the pattern and cable across where indicated on chart B? This is what I have so far: is the lifeline supposed to look like this?


Hi beaz. Your life line is gonna look even funkier as you go along. Don't let it bother you. It will show you what the short rows are doing, though. 
There should have been a cable crossing on the return row of the 14st short row, on the bottom cable ( the cable closest to the stockinette). As you look at the cheat sheet. each dot on a line represents a cable cross. There will be rows where there is only one crossing, there will be rows that have more. This is because of the short rows. I would not try to use the cheat sheet AND chart B at the same time, too confusing, because you will be working on different rows for each cable (again because of the short rows. As you look at the sheet, each line represents a row. On the hip side, all lines going toward the center are WS rows, and the full row finishing the shaping is a WS row. On the bust side, each line going toward the center is a RS row, and the full row finishing the shaping is a RS row. All the crossings will be on RS rows. Each shaded column indicates a cable column, each white column indicates a "plain" (or stockinette) column. Once you get another set of shapings done, you will kind of see when a crossing needs to be done and check the cheat sheet to see if one is called for. On the hip side all crossings are done on a return row. For what it's worth, I put the cheat sheet and the written instructions on a magnet board, with a long magnet under the row I was working, until I got comfortable with the cheat sheet. I used a highlighter to mark through the shapings as they were completed, on both the cheat sheet and written instructions. That way, I was double and triple checking to be sure I had done all the short rows and cable crosses. Not infallible, but I only crossed one cable where there wasn't supposed to be any cable :}

You're doing great, beaz. You're knitting is fabulous and the color is simply stunning. I just might have to make another one in that color!


----------



## Kissnntell

that's what i did, but i just worked over to that part, *ran* those sts down 2 rows, put the offended spot on dpn's, made the cross then back up w/ a crochet hook, then back on the needles & kept going
it worked fine
now, i see i goofed again so will have to do it again when i begin chart b on the back
beats froggin that durn thing!
havent had to do that yet @all, but i'd better keep quiet or i'll jinx myself!!



questmiller said:


> Baez, this is looking real nice. Yes, the life line will look wonky. That's good. According to the cheat sheet, though I think you were supposed to do a cable on the 14 stitch short row. When I did mine, I made sure that I counted the rows between cable crosses as a double check. It's hard to count in the photo, so I'm not sure.
> I have found a great fix for messed up cables that doesn't involve frogging rows. IF you have a cable mistake, you simply move your stitches around on your needles (just slip them one by one) to your other needle until you have the offending stitches front and center. Then you drop the stitches from your needles (in this case it would be the 8 cable stitches). Pick up the last row of good stitches to another needle and then work these correctly with the twist.
> It is hard to explain, but here is a video on how to do it http://www.ehow.com/video_4976526_advanced-knitting-fixing-cables-ripping.html


----------



## RobbiD

beaz said:


> Thanks for the video but I can't play it as it stops more than plays. I will try my husbands computer later. I have frogged back to the lifeline - never used a lifeline before and glad I put one in.


Beaz, lifelines are a wonderful invention. Don't let the frogging get you down. It's nice and comfy here in the ol' frog pond! I oughta know, I've spent a whole lotta time in it during this project :lol:


----------



## RobbiD

Kissnntell said:


> that's what i did, but i just worked over to that part, *ran* those sts down 2 rows, put the offended spot on dpn's, made the cross then back up w/ a crochet hook, then back on the needles & kept going
> it worked fine
> now, i see i goofed again so will have to do it again when i begin chart b on the back
> beats froggin that durn thing!
> havent had to do that yet @all, but i'd better keep quiet or i'll jinx myself!!


Hey Kissnntell, you better be careful! I did the same routine when I crossed where there weren't no darn cable. Worked to where the cable shoulda been dropped the two rows an crossed the cable, then worked to the misplaced cable, dropped the 2 rows and uncrossed them. And, yep, it beat the daylights outta having to frog those short rows. :wink:


----------



## RobbiD

gdhavens said:


> RobbiD, I do like the way these sleeves go in. I just hope that they both look alike when I get finished!!! LOL!!
> 
> This whole project has been a learning experience and I have enjoyed it. It definitely isn't perfect, but I hope I feel pleased enough with my finished sweater to post a picture.
> 
> I hope that all the others that have made this sweater have enjoyed it as much as I have. I would really like to see pictures! How about it, Lurkers, where are your pictures??? I know there are some out there!!!


Gdhavens, as I was re-blocking, I noticed on one sleeve I will have to tighten up the picked up stitches, they are a little "pulled" looking. Other than that, both sleeves came out the same


----------



## Jill2

Finally!!
Here's my sweater. 
It was a wonderful learning experience, and I really enjoyed that it was part of a KAL.
Thank you Erica!!
You gals are all amazing,


----------



## CarolZ

Jill2 said:


> Finally!!
> Here's my sweater.
> It was a wonderful learning experience, and I really enjoyed that it was part of a KAL.
> Thank you Erica!!
> You gals are all amazing,


Beautiful job Jill! Hope mine looks that good!


----------



## charlenekbenton

Jill,
Did u do the icord around the whole sweater? What about the sleeves?
Beautiful job!


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## mom2grif

Gorgeous, Jill!!!


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## Jill2

charlenekbenton said:


> Jill,
> Did u do the icord around the whole sweater? What about the sleeves?
> Beautiful job!


Thank you!

Initially I did the icord all the way around.
Then I read a post by Erica that said the bottom edge stitches on the back were designed to curl under, looking like an icord had been added. That is why her pattern called for just doing the icord around the front and neck edges.
I took a better look at mine and decided to frog.

Then when I re blocked the entire sweater this morning, I folded the back bottom edge to the inside and I like the way it looks better than with the applied icord.

Yes, I added the icord to the bottom of the top down sleeves.


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## Jill2

mom2grif said:


> Gorgeous, Jill!!!


Thanks Susan!

Greatly appreciated so many great minds coming together and supporting one another!


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## questmiller

Jill2 said:


> Finally!!
> Here's my sweater.
> It was a wonderful learning experience, and I really enjoyed that it was part of a KAL.
> Thank you Erica!!
> You gals are all amazing,


Beauty!! Love the buttons!


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## Kissnntell

U got that rite!!
altho i later remembered thaat i DID frog a bit cuz i'd 4gotten 2 do the DECs @the beginning, but just a few rows, so not bad



RobbiD said:


> Hey Kissnntell, you better be careful! I did the same routine when I crossed where there weren't no darn cable. Worked to where the cable shoulda been dropped the two rows an crossed the cable, then worked to the misplaced cable, dropped the 2 rows and uncrossed them. And, yep, it beat the daylights outta having to frog those short rows. :wink:


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## Carole-Jayne

ABSOLUTELY GORGEOUS!!!!!!!!!!


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## Carole-Jayne

CaROLE-JAYNE said:


> ABSOLUTELY GORGEOUS!!!!!!!!!!


well it might help if you know to what I was referring!!!! Long day with stupid car on even stupider ferry. Anyhoo, I was commenting on the gorgeous cardi with the pink buttons. Love them thar buttons, really set it off don't they!
cj


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## maryannn

Jill2 said:


> Finally!!
> Here's my sweater.
> It was a wonderful learning experience, and I really enjoyed that it was part of a KAL.
> Thank you Erica!!
> You gals are all amazing,


Jill, I love your sweater. What method did you use for your seams? I am going to rip all of my seams out.
Mary Ann


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## Jill2

maryannn said:


> Jill, I love your sweater. What method did you use for your seams? I am going to rip all of my seams out.
> Mary Ann


Thank you Mary Ann....

Many pages back one of the gals posted this link.....

http://www.vogueknitting.com/pattern_help/how-to/learn_to_knit/finishing/seaming.aspx

I followed the instructions to attach the back and front upper pieces and shoulder seams.

The sleeves were knit top down after picking up stitches around the armhole so there was no seam....sleeves were knit on a 16" circular, so no seam there either.


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## Kissnntell

HEY!! ck it out -- Craftsy has a FREE class we can use here:
*The Ins & Outs of GRAFTING!!*


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## Jill2

questmiller said:


> Beauty!! Love the buttons!


Thanks Questmiller!

Glad you like the buttons....they are growing on me.


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## nintendomo

Jill2 said:


> Finally!!
> Here's my sweater.
> It was a wonderful learning experience, and I really enjoyed that it was part of a KAL.
> Thank you Erica!!
> You gals are all amazing,


Absolutely gorgeous, and I love the buttons. I was going to do my sweater in grey but the yarn I had didn't work. The grey looks great and I will be doing grey for my next one!!!!


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## maryannn

Jill2 said:


> Thank you Mary Ann....
> 
> Many pages back one of the gals posted this link.....
> 
> http://www.vogueknitting.com/pattern_help/how-to/learn_to_knit/finishing/seaming.aspx
> 
> I followed the instructions to attach the back and front upper pieces and shoulder seams.
> 
> The sleeves were knit top down after picking up stitches around the armhole so there was no seam....sleeves were knit on a 16" circular, so no seam there either.


I love doing the mattress stitch but hate all other seams.
Mary Ann


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## RobbiD

Jill2 said:


> Finally!!
> Here's my sweater.
> It was a wonderful learning experience, and I really enjoyed that it was part of a KAL.
> Thank you Erica!!
> You gals are all amazing,


Absolutely, positively *BEAUTIFUL* Jill. And I love the buttons. They really set off the sweater's color. Wish mine looked as good. Will try to get picture up soon. No buttons, though, yet.


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## RobbiD

Kissnntell said:


> U got that rite!!
> altho i later remembered thaat i DID frog a bit cuz i'd 4gotten 2 do the DECs @the beginning, but just a few rows, so not bad


Hey, Kissnntell, you're dealin' with a rank amateur here, so quit rubbin' it in, will ya? LMAO :lol: Besides, I have nearly all the little froggies named now. But they are STILL not fit to print


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## RobbiD

Kissnntell said:


> HEY!! ck it out -- Craftsy has a FREE class we can use here:
> *The Ins & Outs of GRAFTING!!*


Great!!! After I'm done. But thanks for the info, Kissnntell. Gonna check it out anyway. For next time.


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## Kissnntell

i've grafted b4, but it's such hit & miss, not something i do all the time, so kno i'll find it helpful
yuppers, Robbi -- next time u'll have it made
u rank amateur u!! ROFL
dont u wish
w/all the help u've shoveled out????
dunt thin mooch ameetoor r u!!


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## sewnhair

Jill, your sweater is gorgeous!!! Wear with pride!! :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:


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## janwalla

beaz said:


> Thanks for the video but I can't play it as it stops more than plays. I will try my husbands computer later. I have frogged back to the lifeline - never used a lifeline before and glad I put one in.


Beaz, Some brilliant lady here, suggested when you look to see which cable is the next one to do, on the cheat sheet, put in a marker or cable needle so that you always know which one is next, cos of your marker. It made it so much easier, then you can concentrate on the short rows and never miss a cable cross. Your cardi is looking great! I love the colour you have chosen and it looks soo neat!


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## janwalla

Can someone let me know how wide is the i cord when its on the cardi? , Daughter tried on body yesterday and it is a bit snug but with the i-cord (if its wide enough it may fit) Or its the frog pond and unpicking the back and fronts etc....AAAgggghhhh!!!


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## RobbiD

janwalla said:


> Can someone let me know how wide is the i cord when its on the cardi? , Daughter tried on body yesterday and it is a bit snug but with the i-cord (if its wide enough it may fit) Or its the frog pond and unpicking the back and fronts etc....AAAgggghhhh!!!


Janwalla,my i-cord came out about 1/2" wide. After all the trouble I had with my sweater "growing" in the beginning, mine turned out a little snug, too. I decided it'll be easier to lose little weight. I refuse to frog it AGAIN! LOL


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## Bethe1

Mine is too small also and was hoping the I-cord would save it, but unfortunately, it isn't enough to make up the difference that I needed. It's only 1/2" wide. I'm definitely NOT frogging - some lucky friend who's skinnier than me is going to be on the receiving end of "my" sweater. I'm considering this one Version 1.0. Version 2.0 will be easier, bigger, have top-down sleeves, etc. 😄



janwalla said:


> Can someone let me know how wide is the i cord when its on the cardi? , Daughter tried on body yesterday and it is a bit snug but with the i-cord (if its wide enough it may fit) Or its the frog pond and unpicking the back and fronts etc....AAAgggghhhh!!!


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## Bethe1

Can anyone tell me how to end the I-cord? I'm doing it per the instructions - beginning and ending at decreases on bottom fronts. I can't figure out what to do with those last four stitches. Thanks!


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## maryannn

Bethe1 said:


> Mine is too small also and was hoping the I-cord would save it, but unfortunately, it isn't enough to make up the difference that I needed. It's only 1/2" wide. I'm definitely NOT frogging - some lucky friend who's skinnier than me is going to be on the receiving end of "my" sweater. I'm considering this one Version 1.0. Version 2.0 will be easier, bigger, have top-down sleeves, etc. 😄


Sorry to hear that. 
Mine is too large. I made a swatch first and was right on to the dimensions.
I guess that I will felt it somewhat. Wonder if anyone else as tried that.
The next sweater that I make will be the Fireside Sweater in White using a chart, now that I know how to use one.
Mary Ann


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## Jill2

Bethe1 said:


> Can anyone tell me how to end the I-cord? I'm doing it per the instructions - beginning and ending at decreases on bottom fronts. I can't figure out what to do with those last four stitches. Thanks!


Beth, 
This is the video I used.....

http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=eG588JLv4N4&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DeG588JLv4N4


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## Kissnntell

i am hereby coining a new phrase:

think of it this way: u drive down a road (knit the row) & come across a hole (dropped stitch, uncrossed cable, whatever)

now, u have a choice -- turn around & go back (frog) or get out of the car & fix it & b on ur way

so my new phrase for fixing a boo-boo mid stream (picking up that stitch w/cro hook or crossing that cable mid-stream) is now going to be called ..........

FIXING THE POT HOLE!!


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## Bethe1

Jill - if I'm not going all the way around, do I still do it this way? Just graft into bottom front edge?



Jill2 said:


> Beth,
> This is the video I used.....
> 
> http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=eG588JLv4N4&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DeG588JLv4N4


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## Jill2

Bethe1 said:


> Jill - if I'm not going all the way around, do I still do it this way? Just graft into bottom front edge?


Yes, that's what I did.

Anxious to see your pictures!


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## Oh Donna

Hey--if somebody's sweater comes out too small, and somebody else's comes out too big, what about swapping?
Each would appreciate all the work put into it better than other out-of-the-loop recipients? Just saying.


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## beaz

Would like to know if you include those first 3 stockinette stitches in your count of 45 when starting the bust shaping on chart B. Thanks


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## Kissnntell

if i remember right, u work to the marker then start counting
if i'm wrong, some1 jump in here & straighten it out?
i'm past there now so have dropped that from my mind (not a hard thing 2 do lol)


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## mom2grif

I'm finished with the body!!! Whoop!


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## mom2grif

Kissnntell said:


> if i remember right, u work to the marker then start counting
> if i'm wrong, some1 jump in here & straighten it out?
> i'm past there now so have dropped that from my mind (not a hard thing 2 do lol)


CORRECT!


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## beaz

Kissnntell said:


> if i remember right, u work to the marker then start counting
> if i'm wrong, some1 jump in here & straighten it out?
> i'm past there now so have dropped that from my mind (not a hard thing 2 do lol)


One marker is at the stockinette end that started with 12 stitches and I had a marker at the other end with 3 stockinettes. I am thinking that I should remove the 3 stitch marker and count those stitches-can someone please confirm for me....ever so grateful for the help


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## Kissnntell

baez ur doin great! r'nt u glad now u did this?? 
nothing better than a good puzzle!! :-D


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## questmiller

beaz said:


> One marker is at the stockinette end that started with 12 stitches and I had a marker at the other end with 3 stockinettes. I am thinking that I should remove the 3 stitch marker and count those stitches-can someone please confirm for me....ever to grateful for the help


The three stitch side is the top of the section and will be stitched to the fronts and back. You are doing good!


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## beaz

questmiller said:


> The three stitch side is the top of the section and will be stitched to the fronts and back. You are doing good!


But, do I include those 3 in the count of 45 to begin the bust shaping short rows A?


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## RobbiD

Kissnntell said:


> i am hereby coining a new phrase:
> 
> think of it this way: u drive down a road (knit the row) & come across a hole (dropped stitch, uncrossed cable, whatever)
> 
> now, u have a choice -- turn around & go back (frog) or get out of the car & fix it & b on ur way
> 
> so my new phrase for fixing a boo-boo mid stream (picking up that stitch w/cro hook or crossing that cable mid-stream) is now going to be called ..........
> 
> FIXING THE POT HOLE!!


Oooo, I LIKE IT!!!


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## RobbiD

Oh Donna said:


> Hey--if somebody's sweater comes out too small, and somebody else's comes out too big, what about swapping?
> Each would appreciate all the work put into it better than other out-of-the-loop recipients? Just saying.


It's a thought.


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## RobbiD

beaz said:


> Would like to know if you include those first 3 stockinette stitches in your count of 45 when starting the bust shaping on chart B. Thanks


Yes'm, you sure do.


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## Oh Donna

beaz said:


> But, do I include those 3 in the count of 45 to begin the bust shaping short rows A?


valid question--I can't remember either--but will go look---wait just a minute, be right back...


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## RobbiD

Kissnntell said:


> if i remember right, u work to the marker then start counting
> if i'm wrong, some1 jump in here & straighten it out?
> i'm past there now so have dropped that from my mind (not a hard thing 2 do lol)


Kissnntell, the marker is on the hip side. The 3 edge stitches on the bust side ARE counted on the bust shaping short rows.

"i'm past there now so have dropped that from my mind (not a hard thing 2 do lol)". Not a hard thing for me either  . I have to back and look at the pattern to be sure :lol: !


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## Oh Donna

Oh Donna said:


> valid question--I can't remember either--but will go look---wait just a minute, be right back...


It looks to me like I counted them as part of the 44.


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