# mid gauge machine tension



## Azzara (Jan 23, 2014)

Over the years I have heard it said that the mid gauge machine tension was set to be very close to the hand knitting needle size range for yarns. If the yarn called for size 5 needles to get gauge then the machine probably would require T5 or close. If this is true and correct, then does anyone know if the machines were set to metric needle size or Imperial sizing. I have always assumed it was metric because that is the unit of measurement used in Japan.


----------



## alan55 (Aug 18, 2013)

I was told the same thing when I bought my LK150 (metric in Australia) but it largely depends on the yarn and/or colour I have found. Acrylic doesn't stretch as much as wool so where 8ply wool might use T5; acrylic might use T6 which seems to work on most single colour yarn. With several different variegated 8 ply acrylic yarns T6/T6.5 works for most and one feels to tight at T8 and one seems to work ok at T9/T10 on my 322 on every needle or about T5 on the LK150.


----------



## susanjoy (Aug 13, 2013)

You might find this chart helpful: http://www.yarn-store.com/different-yarns-for-different-knitting-machines.html


----------



## alan55 (Aug 18, 2013)

susanjoy said:


> You might find this chart helpful: http://www.yarn-store.com/different-yarns-for-different-knitting-machines.html


I got confused with all those strange US terms so had to go looking for the normal equivalents.

Australia/UK US

1 ply ------------ lace weight 
2 ply, 3ply ----- baby, fingering 
4 ply ----------- sport weight 
8 ply, dk ------- worsted weight 
10 ply, Aran --- fisherman or medium 
12 ply, Chunky - bulky


----------



## Mary Cardiff (Mar 18, 2012)

Tension square,always,


----------



## alan55 (Aug 18, 2013)

Mary Cardiff said:


> Tension square,always,


Thanks, same here - which I should have added to my previous post


----------



## Azzara (Jan 23, 2014)

Most yarn bands in Canada, give a suggested needle size for hand knitting in both metric and the US (imperial?) measurement system. (US 8, 5mm)
My question is.... Does anyone know which system they used when they set the range of the mid-gauge machines?


----------



## alan55 (Aug 18, 2013)

Azzara said:


> Most yarn bands in Canada, give a suggested needle size for hand knitting in both metric and the US (imperial?) measurement system. (US 8, 5mm)
> My question is.... Does anyone know which system they used when they set the range of the mid-gauge machines?


I was led to believe by my knitting machine teacher that T5 = 5mm needle on my LK150.


----------



## Azzara (Jan 23, 2014)

alan55 said:


> I was led to believe by my knitting machine teacher that T5 = 5mm needle on my LK150.


That is what I was told too Alan but I can't find any written documentation on it.
Interesting that, if that is how the company originally set them up, that it isn't documented in a manual or in instruction materials. The LK 150 is still in production.
I assumed the metric measure was used because the machines were designed/built in Japan.


----------



## susanjoy (Aug 13, 2013)

Another chart: http://www.woodsnwind.com/Docs/knit/yarn_chart_MK.html
From this it looks like the tension dial numbers match US needle sizing.


----------



## Azzara (Jan 23, 2014)

susanjoy said:


> Another chart: http://www.woodsnwind.com/Docs/knit/yarn_chart_MK.html
> From this it looks like the tension dial numbers match US needle sizing.


Looking at that chart it does look like the dial numbers are closer to the US needle range.
That is the first written information I have seen. 
Thank you.


----------



## apette (Mar 15, 2012)

I'm not sure this would apply. The last time I knit with worsted weight on my mid-guage, I had to set the tension dial to 7.


----------



## alan55 (Aug 18, 2013)

apette said:


> I'm not sure this would apply. The last time I knit with worsted weight on my mid-guage, I had to set the tension dial to 7.


That works ok. Usually T6 for me though T7 and T8 have been used before depending on colour; the darker the colour the higher the number.


----------



## dagmargrubaugh (May 10, 2011)

I am assuming that they are in metric terms. The spacing of the needles i.e. 4.5, 6.5, 8 and 9 are in mm.
Like has been suggested, trial and error. That means make several samples (swatches) on different settings.
Make sure you label each one, with brand, fiber, settings, etc. I have a number of swatches that I didn't mark...
They make great stuffing for pillows. LOL 
Good luck with your new venture,


----------



## randiejg (Oct 29, 2011)

All yarns within a "class" such as Worsted or DK are not equal. They may have the same number of plies, but generally you will most likely find that if the yarn has a loose twist, it will knit at a lower tension, and the knitted fabric will feel softer and have more drape, whereas a tight twist will need a higher tension, and the knitted fabric will be more firm. Different colors of the same yarn may vary as well, depending on the dyes used. I usually find that white yarn, and thread as well (especially embroidery thread), tends to be a bit more stiff, and in the case of thread, tangles a lot more easily.

So, as mentioned, always swatch. You want to have an accurate gauge, and also find a fabric that feels right for the garment you want to make.


----------



## Anouchic (May 14, 2014)

Speaking of tension, this is a question for owners of both, LK 150 and SK 860. Are the numbers similar on both machine. For example, T5 on LK 150 will give a tension swatch with approximately similar measurements on T5 on SK 860, just as a starting point. (Off course, one always needs to make a tension swatch with the machine and carriage to be used.)


----------



## alan55 (Aug 18, 2013)

Anouchic said:


> Speaking of tension, this is a question for owners of both, LK 150 and SK 860. Are the numbers similar on both machine. For example, T5 on LK 150 will give a tension swatch with approximately similar measurements on T5 on SK 860, just as a starting point. (Off course, one always needs to make a tension swatch with the machine and carriage to be used.)


I'd like to know that to as they are both 6.5 mm mid gauge knitters.


----------



## Azzara (Jan 23, 2014)

No, I own both models of machines and the tension settings are not the same on both machine models but they are close. My SK 860 knits at 2 clicks lower my LK 150. As the tension number gets higher on the dial the 'click' setting seems to get closer. I think it is probably just the difference in two separate machines. 
Two LK 150 do not always knit at the same exact tension setting. 
Sorry, you can't get away from the swatching on each machine.


----------



## 30Knitter (Apr 9, 2012)

As mentioned above, yarn tensions given are an average. Dyes can change a yarn. Lighter dyes may give one tension, while darker dyes give another for the same yarn. White is not a "natural" color of yarn, so this can't be used as an average tension. An average tension can be used for a starting point and you can change to a suitable tension from there. 

When I was first learning to knit, there was a sample given to knit. You started with 20 stitches and put your tension. From there you would knit 10 rows with a tension 10 row between each 10 rows. From this you would get a tension to knit your swatch.


----------



## Anouchic (May 14, 2014)

Thanks Azzara and 30Knitter.


----------



## denisejune (Dec 6, 2015)

I use T 4.5 or 5 for DK depending on thickness and quality and T7 or 8 for aran thickness. Find this works well on an LK150. Have knitted hundreds of jumpers and cardies using these tensions but do a tension square.


----------

