# #22 CLOSED -SPRING'S DANCE LACE SHAWL



## Designer1234

WELCOME EVERYONE! 
*PLEASE GO TO THE FOLLOWING LINK TO SEE THE PARADE OF SPRING'S DANCE SHAWLS.

http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-167408-1.html#3234711*

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*NOTICE: JAN 2015*
We have been notified that DragonflyLAce is no longer taking questions on KP. The best thing is to look for the lace party in the main menu under "Swaps, KALs, Periodicals, Group Activities" those folks are willing to help you with any questions should the need arise.
==================================
*Workshop information - PLEASE READ* --

#22 SPRINGS DANCE SHAWL, WITH DRAGONFLY LACE  STARTS. AP. 4/13

*ALWAYS start reading at the beginning of this workshop, even if you join in late. 
This is important as sometimes corrections are made or there are additions to the information. If you are starting the class, even after the starting date,
make sure you read from page 1*.
--------------------
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Thank you - designer1234 and prismaticr and nrc1940 (Section Mgrs.)

*Welcome to you all and especially our wonderful teacher*,
*DRAGONFLYLACE*


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## dragonflylace

Thank you Designer1234 for your wonderful introductory information. It is so helpful for everyone to read.

WELCOME EVERYONE! TO MY STUDENTS WHO HAVE BEEN WITH ME BEFORE AND TO ALL OF YOU WHO ARE NEW.

*This is Springs Dance*.

We have so much information to cover and I have been working hard on new and better pattern presentations and charts for you. So the best way to beginning is at the beginning.

Lets get all the technical stuff out of the way, shall we?

I urge any of you who have questions on basics such as: how to perform different stitches; how to read and knit from a chart; how to repair mistakes; information on lifelines and how to use them; how to keep up with your stitches on a chart as well as using stitch markers and what to do if you have to (oops, the bad word) remove stitches (or TINK, or Frog)...we dont like that word, but *I do address this and all the above mentioned in the on going workshop called #6 Preparation for Lace Knitting*.

On this section of Knitting and Crochet Workshops with Designer 1234, I keep constant vigil for questions on any item you may have.

For this workshop, please always write your questions by posting. I will answer all questions myself so that we will all be on the same page. So, if you write a question, I may answer for the entire group and give a HINT or A SHORT LESSON in the answer to your question. I will be using the 'quote reply' so the question and answer will be in my post. Designer will then remove the original question.

*Please do not provide links for others for other patterns or instruction during the workshop*. If you would like to ask me anything concerning other patterns or how-tos, please do so in a PM. This will keep the workshop information shortened and easier for those joining late to read.

There is no sign up for the class and as soon as you chime in, you are of course in the class. You will receive email updates when there is a new posting if you are registered on KP.

Just as a word of interest, *all the charts, and sections of the pattern have been knitted on various types of yarns by myself and another knitter*.

The pattern has written instructions to accompany the charts, so if for some reason, you would rather have these, they are all neatly on the same page with the chart.

*If there is any question as to the technical aspects for the downloads, there is a section for technical questions on the main menu for the Knitting and Crochet Workshops with Designer 1234*.

By the way, the main link to the Workshop page is: http://www.knittingparadise.com/s-105-1.html

As many of you know, I provide my patterns and instructions in color-coded AND symbol representations; providing step-by-step comments on the charts. I am pretty sure that I can tell where you might have problems so, I am ready to take care of those...see you dont even know about these, but I have a pretty good idea of where there might be snags.

Springs Dance is a completely original design. Although it is knitted in the traditional Estonian Style, all charts were created from pictures I sketched from my garden. You may use and share my design. You may sell your creations or give them away, but you may not sell my pattern or any part of it. I have never intended on selling my patterns. That would defeat my original purpose in teaching these workshops. So enjoy, share, and love the process of knitting lace!

_For this project, there will be a gauge, a new stitch and a size with the amount of yarn suggested to complete the stole as it was designed. If you make it a different length or width, I can only tell you how to roughly estimate the amount of yarn you will need.
Please do keep in mind, everyone knits differently. We also knit differently after we are into a project and know the pattern. This is why we will have a gauge swatch_.

I will see you again tomorrow morning with the first bit of information about the project!!

Best wishes,

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

*GOOD MORNING TO YOU ALL AND WELCOME TO SPRING'S DANCE*!!!

FIRST OF ALL: _I will be doing several posts in a row in order to get the information for beginning to you in an orderly manner. We will be doing a swatch and learning the nupp stitch first_.

Then I will be posting the pattern either later today or tomorrow morning.  Please do not be upset. If you are new to my workshops, you may be wondering what is going on, where is the pattern? But I teach in a step by step method and I want you to know how to work the stitches before you begin.

SECOND: I have made every effort possible to proofread the pattern and the written instructions, however, I am not perfect.

If I have made a mistake, please be patient with me. I will correct the mistake
.

* For this reason, it is REALLY important to read this entire workshop, as corrections could be made and in that case, an updated set of charts/instructions will be posted. All patterns have been test-knitted by myself and another person, so we do not expect any problems, but you never know*.

We will be learning a new stitch. *It is called the nupp stitch. The first information is as follows*:

Learning a new stitch in knitting can be a little intimidating.

To tell the truth, much of the knitting that is done for construction of garments uses only the knit stitch, purl stitch, and decreases and increases for shaping (arm hole, neck, cuffs, etc.) Yarn overs are used for increasing on top-down raglans and scarves and mostly knit 2 together and SSK are used for decreases.

(We have learned the SKP instead of SSK for the left leaning decrease because it is used in traditional Estonia scarves and shawls.)

_In learning to do traditional or historical knitting there will be new, unusual stitches from time to time. Even though many of you are new to knitting lace, this really is the next thing to learn_.

After you learn the nupp (pronounced noop) you may or you may not like it. I didnt at first, but now, I love it and when I see the symbol for this stitch, my fingers just go into automatic.

*GETTING STARTED*:
First of all..... do not become overwhelmed by the amount of information given to learn this stitch.

There are so many references for this stitch and I have chosen those I believe are the best for the explanation.

The stitch is simply a different type of bobble...a texture stitch which gives a lovely bit of texture to any scarf, shawl, stole, or garment. But since it seems to baffle many knitters, I want to remove any questions or problems you may have concerning this little stitch
.
I am going to give you my step-by-step instructions and show a few pictures at the end of the post.

Then I will also give you references and resources for you to use and refer to. My reason for this is simple....people learn in different ways and I want to provide you with as many ways as possible to accomplish this stitch.

*We are going to knit a sample swatch that includes the following stitches: knit, purl, K2tog, YO, and nupp*.

This swatch is similar to the one used in the video on Knitting Daily by Nancy Bush. It is a design that is seen in all types of knitting, not just Estonian.

_It is called the Lily of the Valley, Maikellukese, Maikel, vine, or just a right slanting row of YOs and decreases_.

This swatch can also serve as your gauge swatch. It has many areas of stockinette stitch and you can use it to determine the number of stitches you knit to an inch.

For this reason, I suggest using the same size needle you will use for the stole[/i].

*I am suggesting a size 6 needle with lace weight yarn for the project*.


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## dragonflylace

*IMPORTANT* Here is the download of the document I will be using.

[Please remember, as Designer1234 said in her introductory post, if you have technical problems, please look in the technical support section.]

I will post the information, but many want a PDF to print and have for reading and following along. I CANNOT post a chart directly on the KP site, the symbols and colors do not copy/paste. *You must be able to download these documents*.

I will continue in the next post.


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## dragonflylace

*THESE ARE MY STEPS IN KNITTING A NUPP*
:
1. You will need to knit loosely for this stitch, so if you have a tight tension, just relax
and take it slowly. If I knit slowly, I can knit as loose as I want.

2. Follow the pattern, cast on 35 stitches. This will be for 4 garter stitches on the right
and left and the 27 pattern stitches. Knit at least 2 garter row at the bottom and then
1
How to Knit the Estonian Nupp Stitch
knit one row and purl one row. Now you are ready to begin the chart. They will be
purl stitches, except for the garter side border.

3. Row 1 does not have a nupp. K4, PM, K1, K2tog, K6, YO, K1, YO, K1, K2tog, K1,
PM, K2tog, K6, YO, K1, YO, K1, K2tog, K1, PM, K4. Row 2, K4, Purl 27, K4.
Remember to count your stitches to make sure you purled all the yarn overs. Please
remember to make your stitches loose. Not only will this help in making the nupp
stitch, but you will find that K2tog stitches are easier to work if your purl row was not
too tight. And also, the nupp is finished on the next purl row and the stitches need to
be loose.

4. Row 3 is the first row where there is the dk blue symbol for the nupp. It looks like
this: } . This symbol shows 1 stitch becoming 7. The nupp is basically making 7
stitches out of 1 stitch. It is made by knitting and making a YO several times in the
same stitch. So here is Row 3: K4, K1, K2tog, K5, YO, K1, YO, K1, MN (make
nupp). Okay, now here is what you do, knit into the stitch, pull your needle with your
yarn over it to your right, and make this stitch at least 1/2 long...DO NOT SLIP IT OFF
THE LEFT NEEDLE. Now make a YO, (2 stitches on the right needle), knit again into
the same stitch, YO, (4 stitches on the right needle), knit again into the same stitch,
YO (6 stitches on the right needle, now knit into the stitch one more time and NOW
SLIP IT OFF THE LEFT NEEDLE. You now have 7 LOOSE stitches on the right
needle. They will not necessarily look pretty, in fact, they will probably look somewhat
messy.....do not worry about this. Now, continuing with Row 3: K2tog, K1, K2tog, K5,
YO, K1, YO, K1, MN, K2tog, K1. Whewww!!!!!!.

5. Okay, lets say you have now finished Row 3. We are now ready for Row 4.
Remember you are following the chart from left to right. We are going to do this row
stitch by stitch. This is for 2 good reasons. First, you can re-count your stitches to
make sure you have 4 garter, 27 stitches (I count the nupp as 1 stitch), and end with
4 garter stitches. The other reason is one that I do every time I purl back. I look at
the last pattern row I just knitted to see if I put my yarn overs and decreases in the
correct place. (Yes, I really do this while I knit. I only look at the chart when I knit...it
is my guide, my map for the pattern and I follow it religiously, even on the purl side!!)

6. Row 4: Before beginning this row, straighten the stitches by pulling gently down on
the stitches before beginning. This gets all the nupp loops, the YOs, and the other
stitches all lined up and in the correct place on the needle. (Hint: when you are
knitting a large piece, you can just straighten the stitches in one repeat section at a
time if you want.) WS, reading left to right. K4, P1 into a plain stitch (#26), Now P1
into the K2tog stitch, (Notice how I am looking at my stitches to make sure they were
correct from the row below?) Catch Nupp (CN). This symbol looks like this: &. This
symbol show 7 stitches becoming 1. To complete the nupp, you are going to purl
through all 7 stitches at one time. First make sure you nupp loops are separated
from the stitches around it. You do not want to catch one of your knit stitches in the
nupp. {Actually, the nupp is loose enough (??) to sort of stand away from the other
stitches on its own and on one side there is a K2tog.}To do this, place the tip of your
right needle from right to left through the loops....put your needle tip directly against
the left needle and slide it under the loops. Now dont do anything yet. Slant your
2
work and peak at the left side....pull down slightly with your right needle, this lines up
the nupp loops and if you can see all the way through, you have all the loops, if you
see a thread, it means that you didnt catch all the loops. You should also count the
loops as you put your right needle through them. You should have 7. Now catch your
yarn as you would for any other purl stitch. CAREFULLY pull the stitch through the 7
loops....make sure you tighten up your tension on your purl stitch. {If the working
yarn slips off the right needle tip, start over. Sometimes, if my nupp loops are messy,
I will just take my right needle and slip them one at a time from left to right and then
slip them all back on the left needle to get them lined up and loosened up.} Now, as
you slip the purled nupp from the left to the right needle, tighten up your tension.
There you have it, a nice little package of loops all tied up with a purl stitch and pretty
as you please. To finish this row: P1, P into YO, P1, P into YO, P5, P1 into K2tog,
P1. Then repeat beginning at the stitch marker as described above.
Above are pictures of me doing a nupp on Springs Dance. Notice in the left picture that
I am holding my needles away from each other about 3/4 to 1 inch. I want this to be
loose...so I over exaggerated the movement. You really want 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch apart.
The right picture is the finished nupp on the right needle.

HINT - AN IMPORTANT HINT: You may have to repeat this row many times. Seriously,
even though you go slowly, you may not get it right the first time. PRACTICE, PRACTICE!


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## dragonflylace

Here are some of the pictures from the document: How to Knit a Nupp


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## dragonflylace

Even though I cannot put the chart here, this is the copy of the written instructions for the Maikel Nupp Design:


Written Instructions for Dragonflylaces Maikel Nupp Design:
Set Up: Cast on 35 stitches (27 pattern + 4 garter stitches on each side). [The garter stitches are not in the instructions.} Knit 2 rows. Now begin the chart.

Row 1: K1, K2tog, K6, YO, K1, YO, K1, K2tog, PM (Place marker), K1, K2tog, K6, YO, K1, YO, K1, K2tog, K1
Row 2: Purl all stitches EXCEPT GARTER BORDERS

Row 3: K1, K2tog, K5, YO, K1, YO, K1, Make Nupp (MN), K2tog; MM (move marker) K1, K2tog, K5, YO, K1, YO, K1, MN, K2tog, K1

Row 4: K2, Catch Nupp (CN), K11; MM; K1, CN, K11

Row 5: K1, K2tog, K4, YO, K1, YO, K1, MN, K1, K2tog; MM; K1, K2tog, K4, YO, K1, YO, K1, MN, K1, K2tog, K1
Row 6: K3, CN, K10, MM; K2, CN, K10

Row 7: K1, K2tog, K3, YO, K1, YO, K1, MN, K2, K2tog; MM; K1, K2tog, K3, YO, K1, YO, K1, MN, K2, K2tog, K1

Row 8: K4, CN, K9; MM K3, CN, K9

Row 9: K1, K2tog, K2, YO, K1, YO, K1, MN, K3, K2tog; MM; K1, K2tog, K2, YO, K1, YO, K1, MN, K3, K2tog, K1.

Row 10: K5, CN, K8; MM; K4, CN, K8

Row 11: K1, K2tog, K1, YO, K1, YO, K1, MN, K4, K2tog; MM; K1, K2tog, K1, YO, K1, YO, K1, MN, K4, K2tog, K1

Row 12: K6, CN, K7; MM, K5, CN, K7

Row 13: K1, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, K1, MN, K5, K2tog; MM; K1, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, K1, MN, K5, K2tog, K1

Row 14; K7, CN, K6; MM; K6, CN, K6


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## dragonflylace

IMPORTANT FOR EVERYONE:

You will notice, that on this practice piece AND in the actual pattern for Spring's Dance, there is some pattern work on the Purl side....catching the nupp and securing it with a purl stitch. Please do not worry, I am here to help you and to guide you through this process.

Below is additional information from the "How to Knit a Nupp" document:

There is an entire article on the internet showing you how it can go wrong. Personally, I dont like looking at mistakes, but if you must see it, here is the link:

http://northernlace.wordpress.com/2011/01/05/how-to-knit-nupps/

I have searched many websites and youtube videos for information on knitting nupps. There are two resources that I suggest. First anything by Nancy Bush. She is the author of many books about traditional Estonian knitting and I learned to do lace knitting from her book Knitted Lace of Estonia (I also watched many of the youtube videos shown at the end of these instructions.) I will give you a link to a Knitting Daily video of her performing a nupp.

The second resource I came across are pictures and written instructions by Dorothy Siemens. We will start with her information.
The instructions below are used with permission of Dorothy Siemens. Her website is www.fiddlesticksknitting.com. She has a lovely website with some other helpful hints. These are her pictures also.

How to Knit Nupps by Dorothy Siemens:

Those lovely bobbles or nupps in Estonian lace knitting can be daunting to work youve never done them before. Here Ill show you how its done. These instruction show how to create a nupp with seven stitches, but depending on the yarn choice and
pattern directions, it could be more or fewer stitches

Step 1: To begin a nupp, insert your needle into the stitch as if to knit. Pull the stitch through but do not slide it off the needle. Notice how loose the stitch is (this is crucial!).

￼
Step 1: Insert your needle as if to knit a stitch. Pull the stitch through but do not slide off the needle.

Step 2: Now work a yarnover on the same needle. Again, it is very loose. Insert the needle into the stitch again and pull another loop through, but do not slide it off the needle. Work another yarnover.

￼
Step 2:Work a yarnover on the same needle. Notice how loose the stitches are.

Step 3: Repeat this process another time (stitch and yarnover), then work one last stitch without the yarnover and slide them all off the needle. You should have created seven extra stitches from one stitch. It is extremely important to keep these stitches as loose as possible.
￼
Step 3: Repeat the stitch and yarnover 2 more times, then work 1 last stitch without the yarnover
and slide them all off the needle. There will be 7 extra stitches.

Step 4: Continue knitting the row in pattern. Step 4 shows the nupp on the needle after you have knit a few more stitches in the row.

￼

On the return row you will purl through all seven stitches, and if they are too tight on the
needle, it will be difficult to accomplish!

Step 5: To purl through the stitches on the return row, insert the needle purlwise through all seven stitches. If your loops are loose enough, you should be able to count each thread as you place it on the needle, making sure you have only the seven stitches of the nupp, and not an extra stitch or yarnover beside it. Also, make sure the needle is inserted through the stitch loops and that you havent missed any, as these will unravel.

￼
Step 5: Purl through all 7 stitches on the return row. Count each thread as you place it on the needle to make sure you have only the 7 stitches of the nupps.

Step 6: As you finish each nupp, double-check it to make sure it is secure and that no loops have been missed. {See how this looks like a little donut with a string in the middle!}
￼

Step 7: If your nupp is loose enough, it will make a nice, puffy little bobble. Youll find that as you gain experience knitting nupps, they will become much easier and faster to do. If you do happen to miss a strand and only notice it later on, simply tie it in.
This happens, one stray loop should not cause you to tink or to rip. It is easy to fix and will NEVER show...really.

￼
Step 7: The finished nupp, a nice, puffy little bobble.

Link to Dorothy Siemens instructions:

http://www.fiddlesticksknitting.com/assets/photos/tips/knitting_nupps.pdf

Two videos, one for the traditional way with Nancy Bush video. There is also one done with a crochet hook. It is not traditional and may look slightly different on your stole. However, if you get frustrated with the traditional way, this one may be the one for you. 
http://www.keep-on-knitting.com/knitting-nupps.html

Read more: 
How to Knit Nupps | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_8548406_knit-nupps.html#ixzz2KDqH7bFm

These are the best instructions I have seen for the traditional style of knitting a nupp. It is the one I use and the one I will teach. Nancy Bush teaching the nupp stitch.

http://www.knittingdaily.com/blogs/daily/archive/2008/11/10/lace-knitting-video-tip-from-nancy-bush.aspx


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## dragonflylace

SO THERE YOU HAVE THE BEGINNING!! :thumbup:  

You should now have the following to read and study and knit:

The download of "How to Knit a Nupp"...this document is a copy of the instructions on the nupp and how to knit the Maikel Nupp Swatch.

You should knit this swatch before you begin Spring's Dance.

You will notice that I have not at this time given you materials and such for the project. I have put these on a previous post, but I am going to post them here again. {All of this information will also be in the pattern for Spring's Dance, but many will want it now.}

*MATERIAL INFORMATION FOR SPRING'S DANCE*:

Sample was made with KnitPicks Alpaca Cloud, Reed Heather, 440 yds/50 gr skein. (3 skeins)

Materials needed:
Size 6 Harmony Interchangeable circular needles. Need at least 24 in circulars.

Finished size: 25 x 84 in.

Yarn: Lace weight 2-ply

Needles: Size 6 US; ....

Stitch Markers; at least 2 colors.

Tapestry Needle.

Waste Yarn for Lifelines and as holder for extra section to be grafted on. You can also use an extra set of circular needles (same size or smaller).

Moveable markers or safety pins for marking front of work.

Sticky Notes or magnets/board for marking your rows.

T-pins/blocking wires

Stockinette Gauge - vitally important for your tension estimate and choosing your needle and yarn. Remember, this is the stockinette gauge I used to determine match my needles and the yarn I used. If you get a different measurement of stitches/4 inches (10 cm), your stole will be a different size.

20 stitches in stockinette stitch = 4 inches. Adjust your needle size and/or tension to get the measurements of sample. 
A different size swatch will require more or less yarn.

Many of you have already done a stockinette swatch. However, if you haven't, I suggest this type of swatch in addition to the Maikel swatch. The purpose of the Maikel swatch is to learn the nupp stitch and to measure if you are knitting the nupp too tight or too loose. So really, you will be doing 2 swatches: stockinette to select your needle and yarn; and Maikel Nupp Swatch to learn the new stitch and to measure a pattern for correct tension.

I will be here all day checking in from time to time to answer questions. Please try to follow the posts; practice the nupp; and knit your pattern swatch.

Happy Knitting....we are all together and beginning this adventure together. I have been looking forward to this for a long time.

Dragonflylace


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## sharon05676

Here's my swatch. After I finished I noticed that one of my nupps on the first row was not secured. Looks like maybe my purl slipped off. Also my nupps are not all the same size. Practice, practice, practice...


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## nrc1940

Once I figured out how to keep the nupp loops longer the knitting went much faster. I'm so looking forward to this workshop!


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## dragonflylace

Bookmiss said:


> In knitting my stockinette swatch, I tried slipping the first stitch. Although this usually works for me with thicker yarn, I found it entirely too loose at the beginning with the lace yarn. Is there a different way to slip it, or should I knit it?
> Thanks for teaching me new techniques! I'm going to go knit my nupp swatch now.


Hi Bookmiss...just knit it...with laceweight yarn, there is a time to slip the first stitch...but not a swatch and only if later in the construction you are going to "pick up and knit" stitches to add on an edging. This is not traditional for Estonian style. But it is done by modern adaptations of the patterns. But I digress..sorry giving an explanation is such a habit with me. 

Hope this helps.

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

nrc1940 said:


> Once I figured out how to keep the nupp loops longer the knitting went much faster. I'm so looking forward to this workshop!


Wow!!!!! nrc1940....just looks great. I love the yarn...I think it will work for the project.

Yes, knitting nupps loosely will make them a little longer and easier to "catch" on the purl side. That is why I hold my needles a little farther apart at the points when I knit nupps.

Take care!

You are ready...pattern coming very soon.

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

caseyhyman38 said:


> Thank you so much for providing us with important "homework" to do prior to the big lesson on the 13th! Great illustrations and instructions!


We are actually beginning now and the pattern will follow soon...just want everyone to have a chance to practice the nupp first...take care.

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

Revan said:


> Just to clarify: The even rows (normally P ) are knitted according to pattern, but the CN is purled? Thank you.


All wrong side even rows are purled in this style of lace knitting. The CN(catch nupp) is purled also.

So the resulting background will be basically stockinette. So just purl back on the even side rows...and you will naturally purl the nupp together.

Hope this helps.

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

TLL said:


> They are looking really good! Could they be part of the dragonfly's wing by chance?


Actually, this is just to learn the stitch.....but it will be a part of another shawl. The Maikel swatch is an old pattern.....sometimes it has nupps and other times, I have seen adaptations with just decreases and yarn overs. Some think it looks like a bending Lily of the Valley flower...and it is names this in some patterns.

I have gathered such a nice collection of patterns and I am in the process of developing 2 shawls now and have 4 more on my bulletin board in the Pre-Pre planning stage.

So just stay with us and we will have fun doing more and more patterns.

Dragonflylace


----------



## dragonflylace

jangmb said:


> No, you will not be the only one!


Do not worry about how slowly you knit....and believe me when I say that part of the shawl will be a repetitive stitch pattern and you will learn it and be able to go a little faster.

I will keep this workshop open as long as it takes to get most everyone finished and then like I always do, I will refer questions to my permanent workshop...but don't worry with that at this time...just enjoy your knitting.

Dragonflylace

DESIGNER HERE: dragonfly lace can keep this workshop open as long as she wants- we have not put any time limit on any of her lace classes. It is important when you are doing a project like this to have time to feel comfortable without feeling rushed. I can see already how great this class is going to be.

For those who are new - We have agreed that she will be doing 4 classes a year for as long as she wishes. It is an important class and as long as it is popular, and she enjoys it - no problem with the time. Designer1234


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## dragonflylace

sharon05676 said:


> Here's my swatch. After I finished I noticed that one of my nupps on the first row was not secured. Looks like maybe my purl slipped off. Also my nupps are not all the same size. Practice, practice, practice...


Hi sharon05776! You are doing just fine!!

You may not be seeing your nupps due to your tension. Try making them a little looser. Also, loosen your yarn overs...the yarn overs make the nupps stand out.

Take care and good job :thumbup: :thumbup:

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

sisu said:


> I am confused. The even rows in the pattern say to knit, but the pattern that teaches how to do the nup says to pearl back. Please help.


Hi sisu,

You knit in pattern on the odd rows. Then you purl back on the even rows...I think I have a typo.....I will check it out and see what the problem might be.

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

dragonflylace said:


> Hi sisu,
> 
> You knit in pattern on the odd rows. Then you purl back on the even rows...I think I have a typo.....I will check it out and see what the problem might be.
> 
> Dragonflylace


HI EVERYONE...*.there is a typo on the written instructions for the nupp swatch.

I am going to change the pattern but in the mean time.

On the even rows: Knit the garter borders on each side; purl all the middle stitches and purl the nupp together to catch it.

So sorry, but I knew there might be an error...remember me giving the warning...oops...sorry*

Dragonflylace


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## Slowknitter0

I am so sorry but I am not a fan of the nupps.  I did them both ways and I am much faster and more accurate when I crochet them. Those are the top section. I am also not sure of my gauge. I did the stockinette and was convinced that fingerweight and size 7 would do for me. Is my center section suppose to be 4 inches? Of course I do have the swatch strecthed. But hopefully there won't be a ton of these little beauties on the Spring's Dance.


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## dragonflylace

HELLO EVERYONE:

Just a quick update...so sorry guys..but I made a little bit of a typo when I typed my written instructions. If you were following the chart, there was no problem, but if you are following the written instructions, I put in Knit stitches on the even rows instead of putting in purls.....so here is the updated written instructions. I also just included the chart again, so you would have them. I did not put the entire nupp document, just the Maikel chart and instructions.

FOR FUTURE REFERENCE:

Always purl the even rows in this project. Estonian stoles have a stockinette background. (Some Shetland shawls have a garter background.) So I will keep watching for any other typos in the written instructions.

ALSO, KNITTING FROM A CHART:

If you need help with knitting from a chart, you can always go to #6 Preparation for Lace Knitting. In this ongoing workshop, I teach small projects to learn to knit from a chart.

Take care,

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

Well, I guess it didn't attach, let's see if this works.


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## dragonflylace

Slowknitter0 said:


> I am so sorry but I am not a fan of the nupps.  I did them both ways and I am much faster and more accurate when I crochet them. Those are the top section. I am also not sure of my gauge. I did the stockinette and was convinced that fingerweight and size 7 would do for me. Is my center section suppose to be 4 inches? Of course I do have the swatch strecthed. But hopefully there won't be a ton of these little beauties on the Spring's Dance.


Hi Slowknitter, your work is just fine. It is quite alright to use the crochet hook method. Try this if you want to knit it...make your nupps a little looser...hold you needles slightly apart while you are doing the YOs and knit in the stitch...this lengthens the nupp and makes it easier to catch on the purl side.

But, if you want to crochet it, then that is quite alright...really it is fine and the result looks the same. Your yarn is very nice, I believe it will work.

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

AutumnSparkles said:


> Here is my post. I hope that I'm in. I have really been looking forward to this. eeeek! the nupps scare me!


Hi AutumnSparkles...welcome in.

Now don't let a little nupp scare you. I would be more afraid of a 6 year old who explains to his Gramma how to work the DVD!!! (really happened to me). :roll:

They are nothing more than a bunch of YOs and knitting in the same stitch to increase and then bunch them all together back into one stitch on the purl (even row)...really that is all there is to it....but of course, we have that little step-by-step illustrated guide. 

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

kanga said:


> I find nupps really hard work. I have tried before and avoided them ever since but will stick with it.


Hi Kanga..welcome. My Australian accent isn't too good, but I do have a southern drawl.

Just take one little nupp at a time...loosen your tension, pull your needle tips a little more apart and then they are just kinda on the needle, all loose. Before you get ready to purl the even row....give a little tug at the bottom of the stitches on the row you just knitted...then the nupp stitches will line up quite nicely in a little row. Now you are ready to purl back and catch them together. :thumbup: :thumbup:

Hope this helps.

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

Ronie said:


> I agree... and you say there is more on the planning boards??? amazing that you can keep any of this straight... I love the samples... they all look so nice.. I'm thinking of future shawls and want one in every color


I have this little board where I pin up ideas...then when I take a break from knitting...I sit down with graph paper and draw the design...next I just work with it to get the stitches to match my drawing....It is kinda therapeutic???? Okay, I can hear you giggling you know. ;-) ;-)

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

Jenval said:


> I admire everyone who has the nupp figured out, this will be a very slow one for me done 10 rows of the pattern and they still not right it really is going to be a lot of practice for me, just need to get them looser.


Hi Jenval, please keep practicing...they really are nice but remember when I said you might have to repeat the rows to practice...I think everyone who tries a new stitch or pattern has a learning curve....when you get over that curve, you will wonder why you had problems. Please keep in touch. I can help you with a PM also.

Dragonflylace


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## Jenval

dragonflylace said:


> Hi Jenval, please keep practicing...they really are nice but remember when I said you might have to repeat the rows to practice...I think everyone who tries a new stitch or pattern has a learning curve....when you get over that curve, you will wonder why you had problems. Please keep in touch. I can help you with a PM also.
> 
> Dragonflylace


Thanks I can see it truly is practice I am putting up a picture but I can see still need lots of practice.
I brought Nancy Bush book on Knitted Lace of Estonia it include the instructional dvd watch the dvd and put it away that was two years ago time to learn the nupp I will do it not giving up.


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## Jenval

My second go, I think I am doing a little better this time, I was using straight needles change to my Hiya Hiya sharps interchangeable needles much better for doing the nupp.
I am much happier with it :lol:

Will still keep practicing.


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## dragonflylace

Jenval said:


> My second go, I think I am doing a little better this time, I was using straight needles change to my Hiya Hiya sharps interchangeable needles much better for doing the nupp.
> I am much happier with it :lol:
> 
> Will still keep practicing.


Jenval, this is great and I thought your first one was fine also. I think you are ready to go. Did you make your stockinette gauge so you know if you have 20 sts/4in(10cm)? Other than that I like the nupps!!! :thumbup: :thumbup:

I will make another post this a.m. about the swatch and what to look for to see if your knitted sample is okay...  

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

Bemay said:


> I am just double checking here: The sample of the nubb, first row has a knit one before placing the pm.
> 
> On the written chart (later on) I believe row one, is missing the knit one before placing the pm.
> 
> maybe I am not reading it correctly?


Hi Bemay, I just looked at the latest one posted and the original...on my copy, there is not a PM before the first marker. I tell you what , if you still have a questions, send me a PM...we will get this worked out.

By the way, so sorry, forgot to say Welcome!!!

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

GOOD EARLY MORNING ALL - OR IT COULD ME AFTERNOON IN OTHER PARTS OF THE WORLD!

Just wanted to let you all know that on your nupp swatch, your nupp should look like a little donut of thread loops secured at the top!!! Also, blocking helps them tremendously and I know you don't want to go through the regular blocking process on a swatch, but it does help them. If you are using lace weight yarn, when your swatch is stretched with pins, you should have a good idea of what they look like.

Remember to keep the tension loose!

Sorry, but that is what they look like to me.

All the pictures of nupps on the workshop postings are looking great.

In the Spring's Dance, we will have nupps that are not "lined up" in a slanting row like the Maikel. They will be a little easier to manage as far as the way they look.

The pattern for Spring's Dance will be up later today and we will begin by going through the chart for the edging together...[hint: no nupps on this chart...some of you are applauding ]

Take care and continue with your "swatch making".

Smiles to all, Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

laurel1026 said:


> Is there a special cast on for estonian lace?


INFORMATION FOR ALL:

Thanks laurel1026...very good question.

For casting on, the knitted cast on is best. And I have always said, do NOT count the cast on row as your first knitted row. So you will do the knitted cast on, then begin with the instructions, say, knit 2 rows plain, etc.

This is traditional and I think gives a better finished edge to the work.

Take care all,

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

GOOD MORNING EVERYONE: 

There is a little problem with the discussion section for HOW TO KNIT A NUPP. Even though the pattern is correct and the chart is correct, there is a problem with the discussion of the chart.

This is what I previously posted on the site. It is #3 of the discussion:


{3. Row 1 does not have a nupp. K4, PM, K1, K2tog, K6, YO, K1, YO, K1, K2tog, K1,
PM, K2tog, K6, YO, K1, YO, K1, K2tog, K1, PM, K4. Row 2, K4, Purl 27, K4.}

There is a K1 before the second PM that should NOT be there.

CORRECTION OF #3, ROW 1:

Row 1: K1, K2tog, K6, YO, K1, YO, K1, K2tog, PM (Place marker), K1, K2tog, K6, YO, K1, YO, K1, K2tog, K1

I am sorry for any confusion. I appreciate the help from you careful readers. 

So in summary, the chart and the written instructions for the chart are CORRECT, but there was a mistake in my discussion of how to follow the chart.

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

Jacki said:


> Am so glad the pattern will be released today. I'll have to forward to my DH for printing in color. Hope to get it to him so I can have it for the weekend to study while I work on my nupps!


HI Jacki,

On its way very soon, just a couple more business type stuff to take care of. I am so glad that you said you were going to study the pattern:

HINT FOR EVERYONE:

Whatever pattern you are going to begin for a project, it is always a great idea to study the pattern before beginning. I know that it is just instinct to want to begin right away, but I always take a look at all the instructions. I never begin to knit until I take the time to read all the way through.

With this workshop, of course, I will have a little conversation about the pattern part-by-part, but if you read it first, then I think you get the overall picture in your head of what to expect.

Take care,

Spring's Dance is soon to be published....grab your partner (needles, yarn, markers, pencil, etc.).

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

marimom said:


> I knit wide and it does not seem to change much when I go down a size or two in my needles. Will this be a problem?


Hello marimom...love your avatar,

I should not be too much, sounds like you are a loose knitter. When you get into a new pattern, it may be a little tighter, but loose is better than too tight.

Just measure your swatch. It may be that you could even eliminate 1 horizontal repeat...I will get into this more when we begin our official discussion.

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

GOOD AFTERNOON EVERYONE!!

*This posting is for the pattern for Spring's Dance*.

To begin, please read the entire pattern. [/i] Study the charts and if you are using the written instructions, please note that you will have some even rows that are not listed. These will be the Wrong Side or Even Rows and will be purled across except for the garter border stitches on each side. These are not listed on the chart or in the written instructions[/i].

I recommend that you use the knitted cast on and do not count this as the first row. This additional row will give stability to your lace knitting.

Although I have indicated this in the pattern and on the Preparation for Lace Knitting Workshop (#6); I feel it is important to say this again.

*This stole was designed and test-knitted in lace weight yarn. Approximately 440 yards / 50 grams of yarn. The yarn is 2-ply. Therefore, if you use any other yarn, you may not achieve the same results. The amounts of yarn are based on the gauge given and discussed previously. So, if you use fingering, sock, sport weight or any others, you may need more or less yarn and your stole may be a different size[/b.

Also, you may use the charts and patterns for your own creations of smaller shawls, scarves, etc. I will answer questions if you wish to alter the charts on your own, but I will spend most of my time teaching the pattern as it is written.

The pattern consists of these parts:

Front page with pictures.

Page 2: Materials, Gauge, Knitting Symbols/colors and Sample Project specifications.

Page 3: Chart and written instructions for Koi Ripples - Edging

Page 4: Chart and written instructions for Gingko Lace - Border

Page 5: Chart and written instructions for Dragonfly Wings -

Body of the stole

Page 6: General Instructions for Springs Dance

Page 7: Instructions for Koi Ripples - Edging. Also includes cast on # of stitches

Page 8: Instructions for Gingko Lace - Border and brief information on knitting the top edge/border section and placing it aside while knitting the remainder of the stole.

Page 9: Instructions for Dragonfly Wings - Body

Page 10: BRIEF instructions for finishing and Kitchener graft stitch. Another document concerning using the Kitchener Stitch for grafting will be provided a little later in the workshop.

So I here is the PDF download for Springs Dance and I will join you later for more detailed discussion. Please read the pattern and written instructions. (Oops, another homework assignment.

PLEASE NOTE: Do not worry if you are still working on the Nupp Stitch. Continue with this and I will also continue to answer questions.

I always try to provide the pattern in a timely manner for those who want to go ahead with the project.

But I would think that at this point, you are not quite ready to begin the project. Take you time, do not hurry...remember, this is supposed to be fun. There is no race to win. The prize is a cherished stole to enjoy for yourself or share with others.

So Happy Knitting my Friends and lets begin the Dance !!!

Dragonflylace*


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## dragonflylace

HELLO MY FELLOW LACE KNITTERS

I have been informed that the gauge link from KnitPicks did not work..here is the link again. It is a page of 3 informational guides to gauge.

Hope this helps you understand gauge.

http://www.knitpicks.com/wptutorials/category/getting-started/gauge/

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

IMPORTANT NOT FOR ALL:

On page 2 of the pattern, there is an error in the symbol guide.

I have corrected it on the main pattern, but for you who do not want to have to print it out again, here is the correction:

Orange box : SK2P = slip 1, K2tog, Pass slipped stitch over the two stitches knitted together.

I have included a new download of just the symbol box.

Take care and thanks for those who studied and found the error.

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

vermontmary said:


> dragonflylace said:
> 
> 
> 
> IMPORTANT NOT FOR ALL:
> 
> On page 2 of the pattern, there is an error in the symbol guide.
> 
> I have corrected it on the main pattern, but for you who do not want to have to print it out again, here is the correction:
> 
> Orange box : SK2P = slip 1, K2tog, Pass slipped stitch over the two stitches knitted together.
> 
> I have included a new download of just the symbol box.
> 
> Yikes! I've been traveling in the last couple of days, with hardly any wifi... I feel a bit behind already!!! But that's good... I can see where others have gotten hung up and maybe not be too frustrated.
> 
> I have a question about the yarn... I bought three skeins of alpaca lace (a bit more than 1200 yards), thinking that was the right amount. Now I see that you've recommended 440 yards... I plan to learn the nupp technique on some fingering (I think!) weight yarn I have around, to save the alpaca for the actual shawl. Was that 440 yard estimate a typo, or do I have a lot of extra to play with?
> 
> I'm excited to be starting this, finally!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Vermontmary,
> 
> It should have been 440 yds / skein and I used the better part of 3 skeins.
> 
> So if you have 3 skeins, that is perfect. Mine is also from Alpaca Cloud and I thought I wouldn't have the best stitch definition, but you can see the patterns perfectly.
> 
> Sorry for the confusion. But I will check out for typos.....I hate typos, even when I proof it carefully, it is hard to catch them all.
> 
> Dragonflylace
Click to expand...


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## dragonflylace

Janval said:

I am trying to figure out the knitted cast on, I have always used the cable cast on, thought they were the same thing after researching found they are not, Knitted cast on is that where you go through the centre of every st, the cable cast on I use once you have the two sts on you go between the two sts is this the right understanding just want to make sure I get this right.

Will check in later off to study the pattern

----

Hi Jenval,

The question about casting on is excellent so let me answer for everyone:

CASTING ON FOR LACE PROJECTS:

First, let me say that Designer1234 has a little section for information that she posted for the Workshops listed at the top of her listings. It is labeled "B - Information Forum - cast-ons, links, patterns, etc. You can find it on the main page of Knitting and Crochet Workshops with Designer1234:

http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-107776-1.html

The casting-on post is at the bottom of page 1...scroll all the way down.

Jenval asked about the cable cast on versus the knitted cast on. I think both could be used, but the cable cast on is just a little bit heavier than the knitted cast on.

To do the knitted cast on, put a slip-loop on the left needle, this is stitch #1, then knit into the loop, pull out the stitch, and slip it back onto the left needle. {I don't know if everyone does this, but I kinda give a little twist to mine when I slip it on...it lays flat, but this is how my hands "work" to make the stitch.}

In the cable cast on, you knit one stitch into the loop and slip it on, then for the next and following stitches to be added, slip your needle between the last two stitches you made and knit 1 then slip it on and continue.

The plain ordinary knitted cast on is fine for this project. It is the traditional method used, so if I were to put my check mark on the one I suggest, it would be the knitted cast on.

Hope this helps everyone,

Dragonflylace.


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## dragonflylace

vermontmary said:


> Thanks, Dragonfly! I just wanted to be sure... I will still learn the nupps on my junk yarn, and then do gauge and stuff with the real alpaca... One new experience at a time should work for me! And, if I'm knitting loosely, I may only have just enough for the shawl! I'm not sure how well this yarn will hold up to tinking, frogging, and other forms of abuse
> 
> I'm printing it all out today, and then I can try to get my mind around nupps!


Hi again,

I can assure you that it holds up to tinking, frogging, and it doesn't care if you cry, shout, etc....it is a nice congenial yarn and I know all of this from first hand experience.
:shock: :shock: 

Dragonflylace


----------



## dragonflylace

NUPP SPECIAL SECTION:

This afternoon, I will have a special posting concerning the ins and outs; tangles and twists; practical tips, etc. concerning Nupps.

We will do this together and I will go through the Maikel pattern row by row. I am going to help you examine your stitches and to recognize where the nupp is in the row and how to keep it out of the way of the stitches. These are just a few secrets I have gathered since I became doing this lovely stitch.

So stay tuned...just trying to get all the information in one place and my thoughts gathered to make it a nice helper group.

Looking forward to this afternoon...

Dragonflylace

P.S. I know we are working in all time zones here, so I am thinking between 4-6 pm EST I should be ready.


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## dragonflylace

DaylilyDawn said:


> I have a question about the nupps swatch with the method of knitting on the return row after making the nupp. Do I purl across the back Or do I knit on both sides? Because the written directions for te swatch have all rows knitted front and back .But on my swatch I have done purl on the back side.


Hi DaylilyDawn,

Look on page 5....I updated the charts.

But as always except for the garter border, you purl the even rows.

Dragonflylace


----------



## KateyMarie

I have made my nupps swatch and know I have to practice a lot more, but I have a question first. There are some loops on the front of my work on several nupps - one is circled in red in the photo. I think it means that I did not catch all the loops when I purled the nupp. Is that right? If not, what might I have done wrong?


----------



## dragonflylace

NUPP TUTORIAL - MAIKEL SWATCH PATTERN:

Even if you have knitted your Maikel swatch, some may still be wondering "how does the teacher do it?"

First, I am going to show you some new pictures. This is a personal project I am working on from Nancy Bush's book mentioned earlier.

Please take a look at these. The first picture shows a section from the wrong side. I have finished my nupps, yarn overs, etc.; and I am preparing to purl on the wrong side and catch my nupps.

You can see that it looks a mess. I have marked the 4 nupps, but they look like a bunch of loose, out-of-order threads. Believe it or not, this is what my work looks like before I organize it.

Now look at the second picture. This is what it looks like AFTER I pull slightly down on the bottom of the stitches to straighten them. Now you can see the stitches from left to right: 2 knit stitches - 1 nupp - 5 stitches (k,yo,k,yo,k) - 1 nupp - 1 knit stitch - 1 nupp - 5 stitches ( k,yo,k,yo,k) - 1 nupp - 2 knit stitches.

HINT: when I am knitting from a chart, I ALWAYS put my straight magnet ABOVE THE ROW I AM KNITTING. This is because when I purl on the next even row, I am checking my patterns to see if I am missing a YO or if I made some other mistake.

The 3rd picture shows me knitting the nupp. I took this picture with one hand while holding the tension on the stitch, so please forgive the quality. 

Now let's talk about that stitch in detail. {please excuse the long explanation, but if I was sitting beside you, this is what I would be telling you}. When you are purling across from left to right on your chart and you get to those 7 little loose stitches, do not worry so much if the stitches are lining up in a row, in the long run, it will not make a difference, but here is what I do. I use very start pointed needles and I take my right needle and run it behind the stitches directly against the left needle, using the left needle as a guide to slide under the stitches.

HOW DO I KNOW I CAUGHT ALL 7 STITCHES? Well it is sometimes easier that other times. Sometimes, the last knit stitch before you slide the nupp off the left hook, will be tighter. I don't know why, but sometimes that last stitch of mine is really tight. Well we can fix that. So at this point, you have your right needle behind the stitches of the nupp, now pull your right needle out and toward you; the stitches will line up, just wiggle it a little from side to side. But, you say, what if I missed a loop, how can I tell, so I don't have to repair it later? Tilt your work to the vertical position and look down the little tunnel you have, the one between your two needles. And, if you see a loop still on the left needle, you may need to slide your right needle out an start again...this happen to me and I just give it another go!

Now take a look at that 3rd picture again. Do you see how my middle finger is pushing my working yarn down (most continental knitters use their index finger, I use my middle finger - it's okay, Eunny Jang does also...  

So you can see, my purl stitch into a nupp is tight, and you can see my little "donut".

NEXT SUBJECT-HOW DO I KNOW IF I HAVE CAUGHT A STITCH IN THERE THAT I SHOULD NOT HAVE?

Remember these things...be aware of your previous pattern row...keep your row keeper above your row, not below it; look for a stitch that is secured...knitted. The loops in a nupp will be loose on the needle, they are just looped inside that stitch.

Whewwwwww! I hope this description helps a little. It may be more info than you wanted, but I wanted to be as specific as possible.

Keep practicing. On Monday evening, I will go through the first chart, called Koi Ripples - edging. 

Dragonflylace


----------



## dragonflylace

KateyMarie said:


> I have made my nupps swatch and know I have to practice a lot more, but I have a question first. There are some loops on the front of my work on several nupps - one is circled in red in the photo. I think it means that I did not catch all the loops when I purled the nupp. Is that right? If not, what might I have done wrong?


Hi KateyMarie, welcome in!

Look at my new Nupp Tutorial just posted. You missed a loop and this can be fixed...this is explained in the tutorial .

Dragonflylace


----------



## dragonflylace

KateyMarie said:


> I have made my nupps swatch and know I have to practice a lot more, but I have a question first. There are some loops on the front of my work on several nupps - one is circled in red in the photo. I think it means that I did not catch all the loops when I purled the nupp. Is that right? If not, what might I have done wrong?


Forgot to tell you.....looks really nice. Good job!! 
:thumbup:

Dragonflylace


----------



## clkay

going slowly; I had some Patons Lace ; since I wasn't sure I could do this I wanted to use some wool I already have; the tension seems fine; it is very soft; do you think it has enough body for the shawl?


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## dragonflylace

clkay said:


> going slowly; I had some Patons Lace ; since I wasn't sure I could do this I wanted to use some wool I already have; the tension seems fine; it is very soft; do you think it has enough body for the shawl?


Oh clkay!!! I love it in this yarn. The nupps show up well and it is so soft looking.

You have it :thumbup: :thumbup:

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

susiesue12 said:


> Am I the only one who can't master these pesky nupps!?
> 
> Have put it down for now, I know I am knitting them too tight but am finding it near impossible to loosen them more.!! x


Hi susiesue, be sure to look at my tutorial on page 8.

You will get it, just take a breather and then pick it up later.

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

nrc1940 said:


> Dragonfly, thank you so much for your additional instructions an the nupps stitch! I was working on row 5 of the gingko border when it finally clicked (I LOVE it when that happens)! For me it takes kind of a rocking rhythm and holding onto the bottom of the stitches as I collect them.
> 
> I finally got it! and it actually works up really quickly. I'm doing the happy dance! :lol: ;-) :lol:


Hi nrc1940....I just love doing the happy dance...

The Nupp Stitch is just like anything else you learn...once you have it, you have it...kinda like working the clutch on a car....you stop and go and think you will never get it, then one day, your feet do the right thing and you are driving smoothly.

Dragonflylace


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## Jenval

Thank you dragonflylace for the nupp tutorial I have printed it out, it made such a difference in doing the nupp I got it yay :lol: 

I am doing the happy dance with nrc1940

Thank you 
:thumbup: 

Jenny


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## dragonflylace

Jenval said:


> Thank you dragonflylace for the nupp tutorial I have printed it out, it made such a difference in doing the nupp I got it yay :lol:
> 
> I am doing the happy dance with nrc1940
> 
> Thank you
> :thumbup:
> 
> Jenny


Hi Jenval, Happy Dance it is. You did a great job..

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

ElegantDetails said:


> Goodmorning Dragonflylace...it's great to be back in another lace workshop! I sort of have a followup question re: Paton lace. Does it make it harder to do the nupps with the fuzz that comes with the Paton or is it easier to do them with a lace with a sharper stitch definition? I hope this question makes sense. I may have some other yarn that isn't so fuzzy?


*Hi you question is a very good one...so if I may address this to everyone*:

WHAT IF I HAVE A YARN WITH A "HALO" - mohair, etc.

There are so many yarns out there that are beautiful and you may wonder if they will work with lace knitting to include the nupp stitch. They may work, but the beautiful "fuzz" that we all like may interfere with the nupp.

The traditional Estonian shawls were knit with 1 or 2-ply yarn and the yarn was very fine. They also used what they call gossamer yarn (There is a book called Gossamer Threads). So they used yarn spun into very fine yarns and did not use the mohair and halo yarns.

I am not saying you cannot use these, but it may not show the stitches as well. I think I say someone use the Patons yarn and it looked fine, but I am not sure if if has too much fuzz if you will see your nupps. Best bet....try it first.

Hope this helps everyone.

Dragonflylace


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## Jacki

Ok..brave one here.....my nupps! I like it, and so hope that I've got the hang of it. Will appreciate all comments....good or bad!


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## dragonflylace

Jacki said:


> Ok..brave one here.....my nupps! I like it, and so hope that I've got the hang of it. Will appreciate all comments....good or bad!


Jacki, I love it!!!! You have the hang of it. All I can say is "you are ready to dance!" :thumbup: :thumbup: 

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

RBurk said:


> Could sock yarn be used for this shawl?


Yes it can, just remember to check your color repeats if you have a variegated or tonal.

If you will look at Spring's Dance pattern, there are some examples of a pink variegated used for some of the pictures and you can see if you like it.

Keep in mind that sock yarn is a little different in thickness...so if you want yours to be the same size as the sample, be sure to make a gauge swatch in stockinette...this will also give you an idea of the colors.

When you make your Maikel Swatch you can see if the nupps show.

Hope this helps.

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

HELLO EVERYONE:

GLITCH WITH EMAIL REMINDERS:

I have reported this to Designer1234. Hope it is straightened out soon.

WORKSHOP UPDATES:

It was posted that there was a glitch with downloading "How to Knit a Nupp" and "Spring's Dance".

I wasn't aware of any problems...please, if you cannot download, go to the main menu of Knitting and Crochet Workshops with Designer1234 and check the technical help section.

Later this afternoon I am going to post a tutorial on casting on and the Koi Ripples Edging. I will be away from my computer as my husband and I have some business.

Take care,

Dragonflylace


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## vermontmary

Jenval said:


> Thank you dragonflylace for the nupp tutorial I have printed it out, it made such a difference in doing the nupp I got it yay :lol:
> 
> I am doing the happy dance with nrc1940
> 
> Thank you
> :thumbup:
> 
> Jenny


Well, I'm not doing the happy dance, exactly... more like the "thank goodness this is over" dance! I managed to make some lumpy extrusions that could be nupps... in fact, some of them really are nupps... and others are lumpy thingees. I'm almost getting it! I had a lot of trouble keeping them in the right places; there seemed to be a bad fairy that added a stitch or two along the way. I wonder if I picked up and purled part of a nupp? For the last couple of nupp rows I used a removable marker to keep that from happening.

I discovered a couple of things besides the frustration of doing something new!
1. My Hiya hiyas were sharper and easier to stuff through the bunch of loops than my harmonys. 
2. The best nupps came when I was able to slip that needle through all the loops the very first try... after that some loops tighten up and some don't, and there's where the trouble lies!
3. A tapestry needle can clear a tunnel through the mess.
4. When the mess was really unmanageable, I slipped it down to the cable, got the needle through and then managed to purl the stitch... although that's really hard to do on the flexible cable.

I might have given up altogether if I hadn't realized that my alpaca yarn is really pretty! If I can manage do this properly, the shawl ought to be lovely... give me strength!!


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## dragonflylace

vermontmary said:


> Yes, Miss Melba, I am indeed in Paris! And when I'm knitting and get frustrated, I can look up and think, "oh well, who cares? I'm in Paris!" It's beginning to be spring here, and life is good. People and car watching(the latter more my husband's interest than mine) are awesome!


wow...Someone from Vermont...now in Paris..sending use pictures of your beautiful work.

I love your swatch..as you continue, it will be easier for you.

When you block that Alpaca, they will pop better. Just take it slowly and you will do just fine.

Thanks for sharing from Paris!!

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

GOOD AFTERNOON EVERYONE:

I am going to write a brief tutorial for casting on and for the chart Koi Ripples.

But before that,* I just wanted to post the charts and written instructions for any left-hand knitters out there*.

I always try to do this and meant to publish it when we first started, but just had to have time to get to the changes.

So, if you are left-handed or know of someone who is but has given up on chart-reading, I have re-written the charts just for you.

Hope you enjoy them.

Dragonfllylace


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## dragonflylace

vermontmary said:


> Yikes! Block it? That sad little rag? Hmmm... Maybe I will! But I don't think little elves are dropping by anytime soon to tuck in the stray loops...
> It is strange the way the nupps hang out on the wrong side... I'm curious now to see if they reposition themselves. What to use for pins? ...Maybe a trip to one of Paris's lovely yarn shops is in my future... Or perhaps more scotch tape? Clothes pins?


I will do a tutorial on those little stray loops when I get to the border chart called Gingko Lace. Do not worry about them for now.

Take care and enjoy Paris!!

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

GOOD AFTERNOON AGAIN!!

*THIS WILL BE A BRIEF TUTORIAL FOR CASTING ON YOUR STITCHES AND WORKING WITH THE EDGING CHART KOI RIPPLES*.

_This information is directly from the pattern. I will ask that you look at your chart on p. 3 and the instructions and pictures on page 7_.

*KOI RIPPLES - EDGING*:

Cast on 143 stitches.

[iUse the chart labeled Koi Ripples Edging[/i]. (There are 5 repeats of stitches 1-27 on the edging chart).

There are 4 garter border stitches on each side.These garter stitches are not show on the charts.

*Even rows are NOT shown on the chart for rows 2-23*.

All even rows are purled with the exception of the border garter stitches and rows 26 and 28.

Row 29 is the decrease row.

_After this row, there will be 21 stitches in each section.

There is no need to move your markers, they will be automatically in place.

{If you want to divide this chart into more sections (I did on mine), you can put small markers after stitches 9 and 18. This divides the chart into 3 parts horizontally and will help you keep up with the stitches.}

Special Instructions

On Row 27, the eyelet row, make sure you knit one stitch after YO, K2tog 4times...this keeps the sections equal and neat.

On Row 29: the grey box is there because you are decreasing with K2tog, but NOT putting in YOs, so you lose those stitches.

*TUTORIAL*:

When you are casting on for this project, please remember the following: cast on loosely and always remember to knit at least 2 rows before beginning the pattern chart. This will give stability to the piece and will keep it from rolling.

As with almost all of my charts, I use an odd number of stitches

Even though I love asymmetrical art, I feel that the patterns are easier to look at, easier to maintain and more eye appealing if they have a center for your eye to follow. This chart has 27 stitches. Therefore, stitch 14 is your center point.

*PLEASE NOTE*:  If you are knitting from the written instructions, I invite you to look at the chart with me. You may see that after a while, with the help of the colors and symbols, you too can knit from a chart.

Look at the chart with me. *You will see that I have red lines to the right of stitch 1 (at the top is where you will find the stitch numbers)*; to the left of stitch 9, stitch 18, and stitch 27.

And if you look at it visually, you will see 3 vertical sections: stitches 1-9 are the right part; stitches 10-18 are the center and stitches 19-27 are the left section.

{Originally the center was designed to represent a fish from the top and the sides were the ripples created from its meandering path through my little pond.} I also see a closed flower just waiting to open.

To set up your project and to get started on the project, lets follow these steps:

Cast on 143 stitches using the knitted cast on (or any of your choice, be comfortable, but keep in mind, you don't want this to be tight. When I use the long-tail cast on, I get tight with the stitches and sometimes this does not work out.).

Casting on can be both tedious, and therapeutic. To keep track of your stitches so you do not have to continuously go back and keep counting, put a stitch marker every 25 stitches or so. These will be removed later, but help to count these 143 stitches. If you choose, you can use a little piece of contrasting yarn instead.

Now that you have your cast on stitches, knit 2 rows. Do not count the cast on row as a knitted row. I know this is possible, but 2 more rows will establish a base for your pattern and your entire stole.

When you are knitting the first row, you can remove those little markers that helped you with your cast on and also place your markers for the edging.  I personally used larger or different colored markers between the 5 repeats and 2 smaller markers of a different color for the 3 sections within the chart as discussed; I also used a colored marker to mark off the garter border on each side. (Remember, the garter border IS NOT shown on the chart.)

So this is how to set it up when you are knitting your 2 beginning rows:

K4 (garter border); PM(large marker or different color); K9 - sm (small marker) - K9 - sm - K9 - PM. [This is one repeat]. Continue across repeating this process a total of 4 more times for a total of 5 repeats. Then at the end of the 5th repeat: PM, K4 (garter border).

So now you have 5 sections with 3 "little sections" within your pattern repeat. {You don't have to do this little sections, but when I was knitting, I could remember and keep up with the stitches much better when I had those little markers in my work.}

THIS EDGING HAS NOT ONE LITTLE NUPP (You are welcome, hold your applause please).

So let's begin the knitting:

Rows 1-23 are shown. 
Purl all even rows: 2 - 24.

*HINT ON PURLING BACK*

The purpose of these rows is to secure your YOs from the previous row and to show off the little lacey "holes" you have made. To make sure you purl all the YOs, try this: place your stitcky notes, magnet marker, index card, or any of many other devices you use to mark your rows above your the row you are going to knit. This way, you can see your pattern row you just knitted.

Purl back with me on row 2 for instance. Beginning on the left side: Purl 7 (these were knit stitches); purl into a YO, P 1; MM (move your little marker); purl into a YO, purl 3 (into knit stitches), Purl into your SK2P, purl 3, purl into a YO; MM; purl into a knit stitch; purl into a YO, purl 7 stitches; SECTION COMPLETED, MOVE LARGE MARKER.

You can see from the lengthy paragraph above that I was purling through that section, but I was paying attention to see if I had every YO I was supposed to have. This also allowed me to count my stitches.

Since I mentioned it, I guess I should address counting. Counting is a lace knitters best friend.  It is sooooo much easier to catch a mistake if you count.

You can fix a YO that was left out by lifting the thread between the stitches where the YO was supposed to be and then immediately purling into it....this is so easy and much easier fixed on the purl row right after it happened. So I count all the time Counting also allows me to maintain that middle stitch. In the case of this pattern, it is where the double decrease are so it is important.

Rows 1-24 should be completed in this manner, counting, purling your YOs and generally keeping your sections organized and your center stitches all lined up.

Rows 25 and 26. These rows are the end of this pattern, they set up the eyelet row. The style of having an eyelet row (Row 27) is very often seen in Lace Knitting to divide and edge or a border from the rest of the stole/shawl/scarf. So knit both rows 25 and 26.

Row 27. This is where those small in between markers come in handy. You are going to do a series of YOs and K2togs, but on stitch 9, 18, and 27, you are going to knit a stitch to keep the count even and the YOs evenly distributed.

Just follow the chart (or written instructions) and it will work out, I promise.

KNIT ROW 28.

ROW 29: This is the decrease row. You can see that there are no YOs in this row, but there are 6 K2tog stitches (2 in each little section of the chart). Please do not worry about the grey boxes. They represent the reduction in stitches. AFTER ROW 29, WHEN YOU PURL BACK ON ROW 30....YOU WILL HAVE 21 STITCHES IN EACH ROW. You will not move your markers for large section divisions. BUT, remove those little markers within the sections, you won't need them anymore!!!

So at the end of row 30...a regular purl row, you will have these sections:

4 garter; PM; 21 stitches; PM; 21 stitches; PM; 21 stitches; PM; 21 stitches; PM; 21 Stitches; PM; 4 garter.

*A total of 113 stitches now on your needles*.

I hope that this has been helpful to get you started.

As always, do not worry if you are not ready for this section. Continue to work and knit at your own pace.

Take care,

Dragonflylace_


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## eshlemania

Here are my nupps. I used the tip about sliding the stitches down to the cable. And yes, I know I dropped a stitch in the middle, but I was working on the nupps, not the other stitches.


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## dragonflylace

eshlemania said:


> Here are my nupps. I used the tip about sliding the stitches down to the cable. And yes, I know I dropped a stitch in the middle, but I was working on the nupps, not the other stitches.


Hi exhale mania...I believe you have it. Great job.

Now you are ready to begin.

Dragonflylace :thumbup:


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## Revan

I am trying to send my sample. I hope to dance soon...


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## dragonflylace

Revan said:


> I am trying to send my sample. I hope to dance soon...


Wow Revan :thumbup: 

I agree with the others...the baby yarn does fine. Just remember you may have to block the finished project, but the nupps are fine. I would say you are ready to cast on.

FOR EVERYONE: First of all good morning.

Remember, if you are using sock weight, baby, fingering, or others besides lace weight 2-ply, your finished project may be a little larger, depending on your tension and the gauge you made. If you measure your nupp pattern gauge, you can get a good idea of how large your finished project will be.

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

Jacki said:


> I had the afternoon off from babysitting, and was soooo excited to start the edging, I forgot to knit 2 rows before I dove into the pattern. I have not made any other mistakes, and have 17 rows done.
> 
> Question: Should I frog and start over for the 2 rows I should have done, or is there another solution?
> 
> I can be a dork sometimes when I get excited!


I do not want to tell you I have done this before when I was making a swatch...but I have. I too get excited when starting a new pattern stitch.

What you can do is to look at your knitting. Is is rolling on the edge? Take your pins out; secure the needles ends so you won't lose stitches and see if you can "fake block it" out to see if you can pull the center of the pattern out to a little soft point.

If you are pleased with this, I wouldn't frog it out. [But you might want to change the other side when you get there..]

Let me know if you need more help with this...maybe post a picture so I can see it and then I will give more advice.

I would hate to have you frog 17 rows.

Dragonflylace


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## Jacki

Thanks for your advice. So....here is the pic of the fake block. The edge is curling some....and not sure I can live with it. So....another opinion, please.



dragonflylace said:


> I do not want to tell you I have done this before when I was making a swatch...but I have. I too get excited when starting a new pattern stitch.
> 
> What you can do is to look at your knitting. Is is rolling on the edge? Take your pins out; secure the needles ends so you won't lose stitches and see if you can "fake block it" out to see if you can pull the center of the pattern out to a little soft point.
> 
> If you are pleased with this, I wouldn't frog it out. [But you might want to change the other side when you get there..]
> 
> Let me know if you need more help with this...maybe post a picture so I can see it and then I will give more advice.
> 
> I would hate to have you frog 17 rows.
> 
> Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

clkay said:


> I love your pattern and I am learning a lot; I really appreciate your guidance; I almost hesitate to ask - do you have the same pattern in a more narrow shawl? I really want to continue with the workshop but I think I would get more use if it was a smaller size - just half the width. If it isn't available - I understand. I will continue the workshop.


Hello clkay, thanks for the compliment...if I may answer your question for everyone:

SPRING'S DANCE AS A NARROW SCARF OR SHAWL:

If you choose, after you make your swatch with your yarn and you know how large a chart motif will be, you may wish to make Spring's Dance smaller.

If you do, just decrease the number of horizontal repeats. I would keep it an odd number, let's say 3 repeats of Koi Ripples, Gingko Lace and Dragonfly Wings. As far as vertical repeats. Make your second edge/border section after you make your first, put it on extra circulars or waste yarn, then continue knitting your body...then you can do as many vertical repeats as you want.

Please remember that you may have to estimate, or calculate the amount of yarn needed.

Hope this helps everyone!!

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

Jacki said:


> Thanks for your advice. So....here is the pic of the fake block. The edge is curling some....and not sure I can live with it. So....another opinion, please.


This is really a hard one for me to advise because your knitting is so beautiful. The pattern is also very nice...but I can see a problem with the bottom. It will be very fragile in the long run and although I think (??) it might block okay in the end, I think it would actually turn up on you while wearing it.

So, oooh, I hate to say this, but I would frog it and start again. I know there is nothing to ease the pain of taking it out, but it is the only solution I have. The ONLY solution I could possible suggest would be for you to "pick up and knit" 2 rows when you are finished...maybe 3. I have a sample and I will try it first and let you know what it looks like.

So maybe you can start on the other edge and border while I am working this out...just use another circular, or put it on waste yarn by running a tapestry needle threaded with smooth waste yarn; begin again and I will see if this can be fixed.

Take care, I will do my best to work on a solution.

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

IMPORTANT PATTERN NOTE FOR EVERYONE:

Please be sure that after you cast on for the Koi Ripples, you must knit at least 2 rows before beginning the pattern chart.

I have checked and I truly believe that this was left out of the original pattern posted here.

Please forgive, I am trying to resolve this problem.

So everything is fine with the chart, but you need to knit 2 rows before you begin the chart. 

So sorry for any confusion.

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

The information about knitting 2 rows is in the Koi Ripple Tutorial that I posted on Monday evening. I believe it is on Page 7 of the workshop at this time.

The posting is called KOI RIPPLES EDGING and it is announced as a tutorial. 

Thanks, and remember, try to read all my postings for helpful information, tips, and tutorials.

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

THIS IS FOR JACKI, BUT ALSO EVERYONE:

I am sorry that many started before the tutorial...there is nothing wrong with this, but I did not mention knitting 2 row before starting the chart. The reason I did not include this is unknown, except that I have been teaching other motifs and we ALWAYS have a garter border at the top, sides, and bottom..but in case you do not want to frog your work, you have two options:

1. Leave it...do not be concerned, but you will have to block it strongly.

2. Pick up stitches from the cast on edge, knit two rows and then bind off again. See my pictures.

The pictures below show how I touch my swatch and picked up stitches along the bound off edge and then I knitted two rows and then bound off.

Remember I knit very loosely and you mifpght want to tighten up your knitting.

Here is a link on how to pick up and knit stitches:

http://www.knittinghelp.com/video/play/pick-up-and-knit-stitches

I do hope this helps you make a decision on what you want to do.

My personal opinion, I would start over, but you must keep your sanity, so you have some options.


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## dragonflylace

IMPORTANT NOTICE TO ALL SPRING'S DANCE KNITTERS:

Please make sure you read all my postings for the workshop. Designer1234 mentioned in her introduction to the class instructions for how to get email updates...to "watch" the site for added postings.

I have gone through the workshop postings and I have mentioned twice about knitting 2 rows before beginning Koi Ripples....know this sounds like I am defending myself, but I am trying to guide you as carefully as I can. I know that when you get a new pattern, it is so exciting and you want to go right in there and knit, especially when you know what the stitches are, but since this is not a published work, and since I want this to be a teaching workshop, I will give information not represented in the pattern download...

So know that you are all doing really great. I am so proud of you all for the nice knitting on a very difficult stitch, the nupp.

Your swatches look great and I know you will enjoy knitting the stole.

Take care and keep smiling and knitting.

Dragonflylace


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## tmlester

Just to catch myself up with the group here. I'm just finishing up with a small nupp swatch. I'm blocking it and I hope this is an omen for the rest of the workshop. I really didn't have any trouble with the nupps. (hope I'm not jinxing myself!) Here's a pic of the swatch. It seemed small to me, but the measurements come out to 20 sts to 4 inches, so I think its okay.


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## dragonflylace

tmlester said:


> Just to catch myself up with the group here. I'm just finishing up with a small nupp swatch. I'm blocking it and I hope this is an omen for the rest of the workshop. I really didn't have any trouble with the nupps. (hope I'm not jinxing myself!) Here's a pic of the swatch. It seemed small to me, but the measurements come out to 20 sts to 4 inches, so I think its okay.


 Good Morning tmlester...looks beautiful! You did a wonderful job. I think you are ready to begin with Koi Ripples. Please read the tutorial on Koi Ripples and remember to cast on loosely and knit 2 rows first.

 :-D ;-)

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

vermontmary said:


> Oh, dear. I'm sooooo muddled! I had purled back on a row, and there was a messed-up stitch that I tried to rebuild it with a messy result... I find it very hard to "read" the stitches in this project with the thin yarn... Anyway, somehow, a neighboring stitch got involved, and before I knew it, I couldn't tell up from down... and ripped out the end of that row, and resisted the temptation to throw the entire thing off the balcony into the street... and well, in the end sort of got the stitches back on the needle. But now I've lost track of what row I'm on!!! I will rip back to my lifeline, which I think I put in after the first ripple row... that would only be one row back, so not a total disaster. I just wanted to share my pain!
> Also, if you have used quite small markers to separate the sections within the sections the way I have, beware of what happens if the first or last stitch next to it is a yarnover. The bad knitting elves come and jump those puppies around so that they appear on the wrong side of the marker, and that's confusing!!!


HI Vermontmary:

That brings up a great question:

WHAT MARKERS SHOULD I USE? AND WHAT SIZE?

With lace yarn, you must use markers. As I said I put in smaller markers within my Koi Ripples pattern repeat...to separate into 9-stitch sections...then a different colored or larger one after stitch 27. So it looks like I have lots of markers, but it helps so much to keep up with just 9 stitches at a time.

I use the plastic medium size markers that are either white or off-white for between my large 27-stitch motif and then I use different colored ones to separate 9 stitches at a time.

Sometimes I use the brass markers from KnitPicks. I do not use the markers that have a little notch in them. These are what I call Moveable Markers and they don't work because the yarn comes out of the notch.

HOW DO I KEEP THAT YO FROM BEING LOST:

Remember what I taught in #6 Preparation Class. If you have a yarn over before moving a marker, and then a stitch after the marker, be sure to hold your index finger on the yarn over, move the marker, knit the next stitch, THEN let go of your yarn over and continue knitting. EVERY TIME I have a yarn over, I hold it with my index finger until I either knit a stitch, do an SKP, or a K2tog to secure it. It sounds strange, but it works and I keep doing what works for me.

Take care all and please continue to ask questions. I will answer the questions and I will usually put something in all caps if it is important.

I often take your questions and turn them into a mini-lesson, hint, or tutorial.

Dragonflylace

FOR OTHER HINTS ON STITCH MANAGEMENT:

Go to the main Knitting and Crochet Workshops with Designer1234 here:

http://www.knittingparadise.com/s-105-1.html

Then click on #6 - Prep; on the first page is a short index of the major teaching sections. You will find many helpful hints there.


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## dragonflylace

wwrightson said:


> I have read and re-read all of the instructions. I understand the instructions for knitting each of the 3 charts. The practice square has been completed and 9 out of 10 of the nupps appear correct after a great deal of practice, finally changing the yarn (my yarn was too dark and veriegated) and buying an Addi lace needle. I do not understand what is knitted to what and how it all goes together. Perhaps the junk blowing from the pine trees has clogged my brain beyond repair. Your Spring's Dance pattern is beautiful as was the Winter Mirage. I really want to knit it. Thank you so much for everything you are doing to help us.


I am getting ready to go through that in a tutorial of Gingko Lace Border and then how to assemble after you complete the body.

Just stay tuned.

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

* HELLO EVERYONE *

*KNITTING A NUPP....2.0*

I have seen many who are struggling with nupps and I would like to offer some help. [I wish I could sell you some nupps....I could buy some more Harmony interchangeable needles ]

I have been working on different approaches to knitting the nupp and catching it on the purl side. I believe that the major problem is your tension. You tension should be loose and you should have nupp loops/stitches about 1/2 inches in length. I will try to describe my hand movements:

I insert my right needle into the stitch and knit a stitch...I pull this stitch out a bit and hold my right needle with the tip slightly facing away from me, to the right a little. Now, from now on for the other "loops" into that stitch, I hold the tips of my needles apart from each other. Now, I whip the tip of my right needle (Or if you are a thrower - American style - throw the thread around the right needle) and I catch the yarn and let it slide onto my needle next to the other stitch....then I hold these two stitches with my right index finger to secure them. I continue in the way, knit, whip yarn over, knit whip yarn over...hold each new loop in place with my index finger. On the 7th stitch, I knit the last stitch and pull it out long and then slide the stitch off.

If you have problems with this being messy (personally, at this point, I just leave it alone)...you can pull down slightly on the 7 loops and straighten them.

Next, I knit the stitch coming next in the pattern, but I knit it loosely.....I think this is important.

Okay, now let's say you are on the purl side and you are getting ready to purl to your nupp. Important HINT: always know how many stitches you are going to purl before AND after your nupp. Remember when I said to put your row marker ABOVE the row you are going to knit. Well, there is a reason for this. The reason is so that when you purl, you can see if you are catching your YOs, did you miss putting one in; how many stitches before and after a nupp....you get the idea.

Now let's catch that nupp....take your right needle and slide it carefully against the left needle and down through the tunnel of your seven stitches...COUNT them, slant your stitches to the right and LOOK down the tunnel...are there any loops you didn't catch. If there are, remove your needle and try again....this happens to me a lot. Now when you get all 7 loops on the needle and while the two needles are close to each other, pull them straight.

Now for the yarn to perform the purl stitch and catch them, grab the yarn with your right needle and with tension on the working yarn and with tension from the right needle holding the loops out and toward you, carefully thread the yarn through the tunnel and all the stitches. Keep your tension tight, very tight. and as you slip the loops off the left needle, tighten your tension again...you will have a little tightened loop holding the 7 nupp loops tightly on your right needle.

I hope this helps a little. You just have to use your fingers in a different way than you have used them in the past.

Take care,

Dragonflylace

I also ask, please if you have suggestions on how to work on this pattern, PM me first before posting suggestions. This will keep the instructions clear and concise. Remember this is not a KAL, where everyone solves problems.

Thanks so much. If you have any questions with this, please refer to the first post on Page 1 from Designer1234. She sets the rules and they are clear and fair for everyone.


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## dragonflylace

* FOR EVERYONE *

I will be posting the tutorial for the border chart Gingko Lace and general construction information later today. I will explain the border, how to get the second edge and border ready and a description of how the pieces go together.

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

MissMelba said:


> Question: I have done a similar stitch (5 total loops, worsted weight) and used a crochet hook (steel) to do the purl. Any reason I cannot do the same here?
> 
> Sadly I have not had time to start my practice swatch  Although everyone else's look great


*USING A CROCHET HOOK FOR THE NUPP*

Hi MissMelba, if I may answer your question for everyone:

Yes, you will get the same result.

In the postings for doing the nupp and also in the download document of "How to Knit. Nupp". I have included links to instructions on using a crochet hook to perform the nupp.

You are all doing great keep up the good work!!

:thumbup: :thumbup:

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

*TUTORIAL ON GINGKO LACE BORDER AND HOW THE STOLE IS CONSTRUCTED *

Before we go through the chart instructions, I want to take a moment to explain how the stole is constructed. We will of course go into this in more detail at the end, but some have asked questions, so we will address some of this information now.

* THE PARTS OF SPRINGS DANCE AND HOW TO KNIT THEM TO PREPARE FOR CONSTRUCTION *

Springs Dance is put together in two pieces.

First you will knit the edge, Koi Ripples, then the border Gingko Lace. At this point you have two choices:

Knit a second edge and border and put it on waste yarn or a second set of circulars. This is helpful if you dont know if you have enough yarn...you will have your top border and edge done and you can knit the body portion of the stole as long as you like.
Continue knitting the body chart, Dragonfly Wings and then at a later time knit the 2nd edge and border separately.

EITHER WAY, YOU MUST KNIT THE SECOND EDGE/BORDER SECTION AS A SEPARATE PIECE AND GRAFT IT ONTO THE BODY. THIS IS BECAUSE IT MUST BE KNITTED IN THE SAME DIRECTION TO GET THE POINTS OF THE EDGE AND THE DIRECTION OF THE GINGKO LACE GOING THE SAME WAY.

So in the end you have: Edge/border --- body --- border/edge.

You will used the kitchener stitch to attach the top edge/border onto the body and we will cover this in a separate tutorial posting.
*NOW LETS LOOK AT THE GINGKO LACE CHART:*

Please review your pattern copy and refer to the chart on page 4 and the instructions on page 8.

At this point, you should have finished the last purl row of the Koi Ripples chart, Row 30. You main stitch markers should be in place and after the reduction of stitches, you should have 21 stitches in each section. Your 4 garter stitches on each side of the stole should also still be in place.

This chart has 4 nupps in a diamond shape on each side of the Gingko Leaf stem and one nupp at the center top of the leaf. So in the entire repeat, there are only 9 nupps.

The following information is from page 8 of your pattern sheet:

All of the information for the chart and the written instructions should be very straight forward.

Each nupp being made is preceeded by a number of knit stitches. Therefore, it should be fairly easy to keep up with where they are supposed to be made.

I will let these instructions stand on their own for how to knit this chart.

Before beginning the border chart, make sure you have learned the Nupp Stitch. This information is posted on the workshop site.

For this chart, please note that even numbered rows for catching the nupp formed in the previous row and marked in Red and the information in the written instructions is in bold, italic print. Other even rows are purled with the exception of the 4 garter stitches on each side of the stole. These even rows are not in the chart or in the written instructions. As always, end this chart with a purl row...Row 24.

Row 1: K9, YO, SK2P, YO, K9
Row 3: K4, N, K4, YO, SK2P, YO, K4, N, K4
Row 4: P4, CN, P11, CN, P4
Row 5: K2, N, K3, N, K2, YO, SK2P, YO, K2, N, K3, N, K2
Row 6: P2, CN, P3, CN, P7, CN, P3, CN, P2
Row 7: K4, N, K4, YO, SK2P, YO, K4, N, K4
Row 8: P4, CN, P11, CN, P4
Row 9: K8, YO, K2tog, K1, SKP, YO, K8
Rows 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20: Knit your 4 garter sts; purl across; then knit your last 4 garter border sts.
Row 11: K4, YO, K2tog, YO, K2tog, K5, SKP, YO, SKP, YO, K4
Row 13: K1, YO, K2tog, YO, K2tog, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SKP, K3, SKP, YO, SKP, YO, K1
Row 15: K1, YO, K2tog, YO, K2tog, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SKP, K2, SKP, YO, SKP, YO, K1
Row 17: K1, YO, SKP, K6, YO, SK2P, YO, K6, K2tog, YO, K1
Row 19: K2, YO, SKP, K4, SKP, YO, K1, YO, K2tog, K4, K2tog, YO, K2
Row 21: K3, YO, SKP, YO, SKP, K3, N, K3, K2tog, YO, K2tog, YO, K3
Row 22: P10, CN, P10
Row 23: KNIT 
Row 24: PURL

HINT: if you want to knit the 2nd edging and border before starting the body chart, you can put the first edging and border on waste yarn or another set of needles. Then knit the 2nd edging/border and continue with the body. This step will ensure you have enough yarn to finish the 2nd edging/border and you can knit as many repeats as you want for the body of the stole.

Please let me know of any concerns or questions you may have concerning the knitting of the edge/border sections. I will address the kitchener stitch later when I have finished giving the remainder of the tutorials on the body chart.

Take care and happy knitting...remember, take your time and enjoy the process.

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

* HAVE A GREAT HINT FOR KNITTING NUPPS *

Hello Everyone, I received the hint below sent to me in a PM (thanks Barbara for following this step in giving hint to the class).

When she begins a nupp, she puts in a removable marker...then when she is finished with the 7 loops, she puts in another removable marker. These markers have a little notch in them.

Also, don't forget to count...actually take the tip of your needle and count the stitches...separate them, pull down on the stitches to group them...then you will end up with the correct number of stitches and it will help you not to catch stitches before and after the nupp.

Thanks again Barbara, I am sure it will be helpful!

Barbara sent to me:

I have found that the best and easiest way for me to assure that I am not picking up a stitch I do not want in the nupps is to place a temporary marker before and after starting the nupp in knit row and removing after completion in the purl row. I had a problem with picking up the stitch after the nupp in the purl row. Thank you for all the hard work you do to present such wonderful patterns and tutorials. Barbara

Take care all :thumbup: :thumbup:

Dragonflylace


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## clkay

THANK YOU Dragonflylace; since this is my first attempt at lace knitting I was very intimidated; I read all your instructions and followed your tutorial; I really feel I have accomplished something - the beautiful Koi edge completed....
thanks so much for your help


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## dragonflylace

clkay said:


> THANK YOU Dragonflylace; since this is my first attempt at lace knitting I was very intimidated; I read all your instructions and followed your tutorial; I really feel I have accomplished something - the beautiful Koi edge completed....
> thanks so much for your help


Wonderful clkay..hard to tell this is your first lace piece!

I love this design done in the white...so classic and traditional!

Take care and keep knitting. You are ready for the border Gingko Lace.

:thumbup: :thumbup: :-D

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

Revan said:


> Thank you again for teaching this wonderful class. I love your design and am enjoying knitting it. I am taking it slow, but love how each row unfolds after purling.
> 
> Thank you for the charts and the way you made them. I find myself reading the charts to knit by. I wish all patterns with charts were as easy as yours to read. Thank you again for your time and effort, it is much appreciated. Revan


Thanks Revan. I started doing charts like this for myself and am happy to share them. So glad you are knitting straight from the charts!
;-) :-D

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

Jenval said:


> I am leaving in my two rows of stocking stitch at the beginning to much work to undo for one row, finish my second piece ready to start the body looking forward to knitting the Dragonfly Wings, was to tired last night to start that section so will sometime today, after all this shawl is for me if the ends do curl up I can live with that.
> Thanks Dragonflylace the pattern is stunning love what I have done so far. :lol:


Do not worry, I think if you block it will be fine. Besides, I have this lovely idea of adding a few beads to the points. These can be done after the stole is done....so you would have a little bead accent placed on the outer edge at each center point of the pattern repeat for Koi Ripples. So don't frog it and I will get back to you later about the procedures and I will post instructions.

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

Jenval said:


> Thank you that sounds like a great idea I would not have thought about putting beads on will look forward to doing some beading. I have not started the body yet had family and granchildren over so thought I would leave it and start tommorow. Thank you for your time and effort you put in for all of us very much appreciated.
> 
> :lol: :thumbup:


Hi Jenval,

This is what I live for....I love trying to share all I know. I found this idea when I was on Ravelry looking at a mystery KAL...hate it when they don't give the entire pattern all in one document, but I digress...

Anyway, I have seen several shawls with beads on the edgings at the points. So, I am working on my sample and will try different methods before posting, so I can see if this works. I promise, I won't post until I know this works. And I am not talking about a great deal of beads, only on the points. I am trying to figure out if I will use crochet, or just sew them on with a beading needle, I have the supplies, just gotta get to work on it.

Dragonflylace


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## jangmb

I think I finally figured out how to get the nupps loose enough. The picture is rather flattering.


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## gwendipietro

Here is a picutre of my nupps, but they are not sticking out like the other pictures that I have seen


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## dragonflylace

jangmb said:


> I think I finally figured out how to get the nupps loose enough. The picture is rather flattering.


Yeah!!! I think they look wonderful. You did a great job. The blocking is what makes them pop.

Now you are ready to cast on and begin to knit the stole.

Dragonflylace :thumbup: :thumbup: ;-)


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## dragonflylace

gwendipietro said:


> Here is a picutre of my nupps, but they are not sticking out like the other pictures that I have seen


I love this color....I think I have a skein of it..is is KnitPicks?

You have done a wonderful job. Don't worry about them how they lie. When you do the stole and then block it at the end, they will show up fine.

Lovely work...you are ready.

Dragonflylace


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## Jacki

Oh Dragonfly Lace......I just think your pattern gets more and more awesome! Thought I'd send a pic of the koi and ginko pattern edge. Thanks again so much for this marvelous tutorial! You rock!

Nice to see the new nupp swatches. They are lovely! The yarns are so pretty too!


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## dragonflylace

Jacki said:


> Oh Dragonfly Lace......I just think your pattern gets more and more awesome! Thought I'd send a pic of the koi and ginko pattern edge. Thanks again so much for this marvelous tutorial! You rock!
> 
> Nice to see the new nupp swatches. They are lovely! The yarns are so pretty too!


Hi Jacki...oh so beautiful. A wonderful job, well done.

By the way, do not forget...you can stop and put this on waste yarn or a spare set of circulars (smaller is better) and then you can knit your other edge/border piece..that way you will have it done and won't have to worry about running out of yarn to do the last part....just knit until you get the length you want, then add it on.

Wow, I am so proud for you, here's a big thumbs up for you.

:thumbup: :thumbup:

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

Revan said:


> Would you please post instructions for adding beads for us all? Thank you, we would all be able learn another thing in knitting lace. Revan


Don't worry, I will .....gotta get the technique down and decide exactly what I want to do first....but you won't do this until you are completed.

;-)


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## dragonflylace

Slowknitter0 said:


> Dragonfly Lace, when I get to the end of my Ginko border, how much yarn should I allow for the Kitchener stitches? Was it 3x the width of the shawl? I forgot


I would give it that much. When I did mine, I left that much and it was more than enough, but I would rather have a yard too much, than a yard to little, so I would say 3X the width of the stole.


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## dragonflylace

clkay said:


> I feel stupid asking this; I have just finished the Koi Ripples - Edging and the Gingko Lace - Border. I have decided to do the body next and knit the second border and edging later.
> Do I transfer the stitches (after row 24) to a spare set of needles and CAST on 143 stitches for the body (I will have 2 grafting pieces)
> OR do I continue knitting using the body chart and the only grafting is the SECOND Border edge.


Hi clkay,

Don't EVER feel like you have a stupid question.....to go on from here, just begin the body chart, Dragonfly Wings and knit the number of repeats suggested or whatever size you want it to be.

Then at the end, you MUST knit a separate edge/border piece and graft it on.

*Tomorrow, Monday, I will put up the tutorial for Dragonfly Wings - body chart *

I will also give the document for grafting the Kitchener stitch.

Please do not think I am hurrying anyone, I just would like all the instructions to be "as near as possible" on the workshop.

Dragonflylace


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## Ronie

I have my edge done I'll try to post pics.. I don't know how big it will show.. fingers crossed it shows up well.. I am going to have to do something with my edge, I messed it up but it will be fine for now.. I'll fix it later.. It will look nicer with the extra rows added


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## Jenval

Everyone doing really well with there spring dance shawl, here is where I am up two ready to start the 11th row on the second repeat of the dragonflywings, sorry I have not stretch it out but not sure on blocking as I have never done it before, I have blocking wires but not a blocking matt so will have to go looking for one soon.
I am using Patons Embrace 2 ply from Australian Country Spinners its 90% merino, 10% silk the color is Teal blue, I wish I had brought the cream instead now think I would have preferred that but never mind it not to bad. :lol:
Looking forward to putting beads on the points as I did knit and purl rows instead of two knit rows a stupid mistake. I have my other border done it is on a stitch holder.


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## dragonflylace

*TUTORIAL FOR DRAGONFLY WINGS - BODY OF SPRINGS DANCE *

*HELLO EVERYONE AND GOOD MORNING*

Sorry I did not get this posted on Monday as promised earlier, had a little technical difficulties.

This is a guide through the body chart for Springs Dance.

* WHERE SHOULD I BE?*
At this point, you should have finished AT LEAST one repeat of the Koi Ripples - edge and one repeat of Gingko Lace - border...and you must finished the last purl row of Gingko Lace, row 24. DO NOT FORGET this last purl row. You knitted row 23 and purled row 24 of Gingko Lace.

*Here are the instructions as given in the pattern:*

DRAGONFLY WINGS - BODY
The body chart is an alternating design of gathered stitches surrounded by YOs and the nupp stitch also
surrounded by YOs. The design was developed to follow the stitch count set up by the Gingko Lace
border. Some may notice and ask why it was not done as a repeat of stitches 1-14 to keep the alternating
pattern constant and to make a diamond. This is a possibility, and you may do this if you wish. However
since this is an intermediate project I decided to let the chart follow directly the stitch count set up by the
border. This means the pattern will be more like a square followed by another square.
If you look closely, you will see that the general pattern for Dragonfly Wings is the center of Gingko Lace,
stitches 8-14 on rows 14-19.
Be sure to end the body with a purl row before stopping and finishing the stole.

Row 1: K8, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SKP, K8
Row 3: K3, YO, K2tog, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SKP, K3, YO, K2tog, K2
Row 5: K1, YO, SKP, N, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SK2P, YO, K3, YO, SKP, N, K2tog, YO, K1
Row 6: P3, CN, P13, CN, P3
Row 7: K3, YO, K2tog, K2, SKP, YO, K3, YO, K2tog, K3, YO, K2tog, K2
Row 9: K8, SKP, YO, K1, YO, K2tog, K8
Row 11: K1, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SKP, K9, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SKP, K1
Row 13: K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SKP, K3, YO, K2tog, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SKP
Row 15: K2, YO, SK2P, YO, K3, YO, SKP, N, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SK2P, YO, K2
Row 16: P10, CN, P10
Row 17: SKP, YO, K3, YO, K2tog, K3, YO, K2tog, K2, SKP, YO, K3, YO, K2tog
Row 19: K1, SKP, YO, K1, YO, K2tog, K9, SKP, YO, K1, YO, K2tog, K1
Row 20: finish with a regular purl row

* So let us take a look at the chart *

{By the way, as you know, I have made every effort to proof, reproof, etc. the written instructions, but mistakes can be made. On your written instructions, the purl rows 6 and 15 where you complete the nupps are in bold text. ALL other purl rows are as instructed before, you knit the garter borders and purl the remainder of the stitches.}

At this point, please do not be alarmed if you are not this far. I am just putting the instructions as close together as possible in the workshop.

I found when I was writing this chart that there were some places where you might have some concerns.

If you look at stitches 8-14 and rows 11-20, we will work with this motif in the center where there is a nupp surrounded by YOs and decreases. First, I have seen many patterns where the nupp was preceeded and followed by a YO (with the decreases coming AFTER the YO instead of before.). I chose to add a SKP before and a K2tog AFTER the nupp (we are looking at stitches 10-12) so that you will have a stable stitch before and after the nupp. This gives you a solid stitch and you need to make sure that you purl this stitch on row 16.

Now the next place where I want you to look on the chart is Stitch 11 on row 17...above the nupp you completed on row 16. {We are on row 17...stitch 11}. This is a YO on top of the nupp you made in the row below. These YOs are what make the wings of the dragonflys body. The body is the nupp. This is what gives the open look to the pattern motif.

ON THE CHART: notice I have marked the purl rows, 6, 16, and 20 with a  RED  box. Please remember these purl rows have the symbol for catching the nupp.

If you watch your chart (or follow the written instructions carefully), you will end up with this lovely little open pattern. [The top center pattern for Gingko Lace is very similar to these dragonfly wings.}

*HINT*: If you divide each chart repeat (rows 1-21) into 3 sections marked by the RED lines, you will find that it is easier to keep up with those 7 stitches to make sure your nupps, decreases, and YOs are in the correct place.

The sections with the SK2Ps also make a lovely little open pattern...it also represents a dragonfly. there are many YOs in this body chart (and really not so many nupps), but the results are really nice. You will get into a little rhythm with your knitting, especially if you subdivide the 21 stitch motif. The repeats become familiar and with repeating this pattern, you will get better with the YOs and nupps.

I hope this is helpful. Of course you can ask any questions.

NEXT POSTING: KITCHENER STITCH AND CONSTRUCTION.


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## dragonflylace

* KITCHENER STITCH AND PUTTING SPRINGS DANCE TOGETHER:*

*NOTE:* These instructions are the very same as for Winters Mirage with the exception that you have and edge + a border instead of just an edge.

Now, do not be upset if your are not ready for this step. Remember this is a workshop. There is no real timetable. I want to keep the instructions together on the workshop area.

Before we put the two pieces together, lets make sure that you have everything ready. At this point, you should have the two pieces:
Edge - Border - Body and Edge - Border.

In other words...you have a long piece where you knitted the Koi Ripples edge, the Gingko Lace Border and then the Dragonfly Wings body chart, AND you have another Koi Ripples edge and Gingko Lace Border on a separate waste yarn or another set of circulars. 
You should knit the top edge and border SEPARATELY. If you do not have an extra set of needles, you can put your knitting on a waste piece of yarn. In order to do this, select a piece of yarn about twice as long as your project and use a tapestry needle. It doesnt really matter what type of waste yarn you use, but as a rule of thumb, if I am knitting with wool or alpaca, etc., I use a piece of smooth cotton.

*To transfer your work to this yarn*, use your tapestry needle threaded with the waste yarn. You may use any tapestry needle, plastic or metal. Carefully run your waste yarn through the working stitches on the needle. This is just like using a lifeline only this time, you are going to slip all the stitches OFF the needle when you get to the end. You do not have to run your waste yarn through the stitch holders, but if you have plenty more stitch holders, it might be nice this first time, because it will help you keep track of how many stitches you have between the markers. I silently count each stitch as I pass my needle through it to make sure that I do not miss one. This part is a little fidgety, but you will get the hang of it. After you come to the end, and before you slip your stitches off, tie the two ends of the waste yarn together. I make a bow and then tie the loops around each other (like you double tie your shoes.) After you tie the ends together, slip your work off the needles. And there you have it. Now you can knit the other edge piece with your needles. After you finish your second edge, you will slip your stitches back onto a needle in order to graft the two pieces together. If you do not have another circular needle the same size you can use a smaller size circular to put your work back onto before joiningit wont matter, because you wont actually be working the stitches, just grafting them together. [Remember to count both sets of stitches again to make sure you have exactly the same number of stitches.]

*THE KITCHENER STITCH  GRAFTING*

Learning this stitch is important to knitting. You can use this not only for grafting pieces of a scarf, but also for joining the pieces of a garment. You can practice this grafting method on some other yarn you have around by knitting two pieces around 15 stitches each on two needles. One to 3 inches is enough. When you get them knitted, place them together with the WS or purl sides together and the RS or knit sides on the outside. You have a back (or top) needle with 15 stitches and a front (bottom) needle with 15 stitches.

*Hint:* whatever site you use, whatever instructions you decide are best for you, remember this, keep this tight enough to put these two pieces properly together, but loose enough so that you do not create a pucker in the work. I do everything looser than I think is necessary. You can always pull it to gently tighten if too loose, but a pucker is hard to repair. Always err on the side of caution. We all put a lot of work into our knitting, so lets finish it with just as much care. It is of course part of the production of a quality project.

*THIS IS HOW I DO THE STITCH: ABSOLUTELY IMPORTANT: THAT YOU MUST SET UP THIS PROCESS FIRST. *

This is done by using the tapestry needle and doing these two steps first:
1. Insert the threaded tapestry needle into the first stitch on the needle closest to you as if to purl and pull it through, leaving the stitch on the needle. 
2. Then insert the needle into the first stitch on the back needle as if to knit, leaving the stitch on the needle. Pull the yarn through.

Now, continue as follows:
3. Thread yarn through first st on front needles as if to knit. Slip stitch off needle.
4. Thread yarn through next st on front needle as if to purl. Leave stitch on needle. Repeat steps 3-6
5. Thread yarn through first st on back needle as if to purl. Slip stitch off needle. to the end.
6. Thread yarn through next st on back needle as if to knit. Leave stitch on needle.

Jingle: Front  Knit  OFF  Front  Purl  ON; Back  Purl  OFF  Back  Knit  ON

To end, pull the yarn through the last stitch and leave about 6 inches or so to weave in later. Wait until you block your scarf/shawl before weaving in the ends.

*LINKS TO SITES FOR INSTRUCTIONS:*

1. I think that this link is one of the best for explaining and showing the kitchener stitch:

http://knitty.com/ISSUEsummer04/FEATtheresasum04.html

2. Another place that I like is the LionBrand website. It is the written instructions:

http://www.lionbrand.com/faq/255.html?www=1&lbc=&language=

3. And this is a youtube video that I like. Written below it is the little jingle: Knit (slip), purl. Purl, (slip), Knit. You Knit (slip), purl on the front needle, then Purl (slip), Knit on the back needle.

http://www.knittinghelp.com/video/play/kitchener-stitch

4. This is a PDF download of a little card you can copy and have in your knitting. I really like this one.

http://www.tricksyknitter.com/media/blog/KitchenerCheatCard.pdf

*BLOCKING: *

I use this method. Gently place your scarf/shawl in room temperature water. Get it completely wet. Then take the scarf/shawl out of the water and gently squeeze out the excess water. DO NOT TWIST. Now lay it on a large towel and roll the towel and the scarf up together. This will remove excess water. Now lay the scarf/shawl out on a sheet or other surface that can be wet. EVERY SO GENTLY pull it to the dimensions described. If you are not sure how wide or long, follow what I do. I stretch the scarf/shawl until I can tell a distinction between the stitches to see the pattern. I do NOT want to stretch it apart, but I want to see the pattern. Now use pins or straight wires for blocking to hold the work in place and allow to completely dry.

I NEVER iron or steam my wool or natural fiber items. I know that this can be done, but I think that 220 degrees for steam is not good for these beautiful scarves and shawls.

Here is a link to the knitpicks site where blocking is explained. This shows the use of pins and wires. I use pins for the points and wires for the straight sides. [ I am sure if you google this, you will also find a number of additional links.] You can just use pins if you like..I do sometimes. I use T pins, they are easy to find.

http://www.knitpicks.com/tutorials/Blocking_lace__D46.html

So, let me know of any problems or concerns that you may have.

Remember, you can practice this on a small sample first. I personally use the little card I discussed in #4 above to help remind me of the process.....don't forget the set up rows.

Take care,

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

clkay said:


> Dragonfly; I know you have mentioned that you can do as many repeats of the body as you would like but how many repeats are you recommending. Just love the body pattern - it is a joy to knit.


Good Morning clay

I am so happy that it is easy for you to knit. After you do the patterns rows a few times, you almost get to where you can remember it.

I made 5 horizontal repeats for the width.

On the length, I repeated it 15 times for the length with the edging/borders to equal 84 inches. If I remember correctly, when I measured my pattern for Dragonfly Wings, each time I completed the chart, it was about 6 inches in length. It may have been slightly longer if stretched more (maybe 1/2 in). But I did an odd number, 15.

You can of course make yours any length you want, but I wanted something to wrap around me, so I made the stole 84 inches.

Take care, and if anyone else has any concerns, problems, etc, please write in.

Dragonflylace :thumbup: :thumbup:


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## dragonflylace

tmlester said:


> Dragonflylace,
> I just wanted to thank you for all your wonderful guidance throughout this class. I've learned many new things to add to my lace knitting journey. I love knitting lace and your designs are absolutely the best out there! Thanks again for all your patience and help with Spring's Dance. I'm into the Dragonfly wings (finished one repeat so far) and am looking forward to the finished product. Will post on the site and on the parade when finished!


Thanks so much tmlester...can't wait to see some of the stoles.

I am so glad you are enjoying the charts!

You all can put pics of your Works - In - Progress if you want. Sometimes seeing different yarns helps others who are coming in decided what color or type they want to use.

At this time, I am working on a little beaded edge {or just beads} to put at the points of the edge. This will help those who are afraid their cast on edge might curl...but also, for anyone who just wants to add a little "extra" to the edge, it will be a little "glam".

I will post when I have all the instructions exactly how I think they should before putting on the workshop area.

:thumbup: :thumbup: 

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

eshlemania said:


> I had to frog also. I was getting to the end of the koi edging and realized that I was on the even row and needed to be on the odd row. Thank goodness for that lifeline. I have indeed grown in my skills. I never think I will tear back to the lifeline, so I had not noted the row I put it in. I was able to 'read' my knitting and determine which row I was on. The stitch count wasn't right. Again, 'read' my knitting and found two stitches I hadn't gotten in the lifeline, so they were dropped when I frogged back. Thanks again, Dragonflylace, for all your careful teaching. It is definitely paying off. And I am into the gingko lace and have done my first row of nupps and purled them off. I think I am actually getting them looser. By the time I am done, they will be easy to do. . .I hope.


Hi eshelmania,

I am so excited that you are getting to the point where you can "read" your stitches and find your way in the pattern. WOW!!

When I originally started the #6 workshop, the goal was to teach members to knit from the chart AND to read their knitting, to recognize their place. You are doing wonderful. Learning this is a big step in lace knitting.

:thumbup: :thumbup:

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

Hi everyone, nice to here from you all...wow, sounds like you are all becoming true lace knitters....looking for knitting time, counting out loud...not wanting to be interrupted. I count outloud and my husband says when he hears me counting he know not to say anything...

Anyway, I am working on the summer patterns..yes that is a plural and a circular, and new edgings, ect. ect. ect.

Happy weekend all!, :thumbup: 

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

jangmb said:


> Sounds like I am going to have to find some serious knitting time so that I have this one done by the time the next pattern comes out! I am embarassed to even tell you how very little I have done. The comments that the lace knitters are making - make me smile - I see myself in these comments!!


No time limit...just to let you know, I have a large project which I work on "in the background" and I have had it on the needles for about 8 months...I am taking my time with this and I love working on it as a result. And remember, the next workshop isn't until July...so no hurry.

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

eshlemania said:


> YES!!! It was so-very-easy!!! Woohoo!!


The words of a happy lace knitter...


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## dragonflylace

vermontmary said:


> I'm stymied!!!! I am having a real problem with row 11 of the Ginko Lace border. My markers and the stitches don't fit the chart (or the written directions). I have markers every seven stitches, but if I do the first seven stitches, which end in a YO, I have one stray stitch left on the needle that is supposed to be knitted together with the first stitch of the next seven stitch group. In other words, in the first seven stitches, there are two YOs and only one decrease. Should I just take the markers out and treat these as 21 stitches? I'm afraid to do that and end up with some sort of traffic jam at the end of the row. Have I missed some posting that explains this, or am I just dense? I am NOT a happy lace knitter this morning!!!


Goodmorning Mary,

Yes, remove all your little "in between markers"...you now just have one large motif that is 21 stitches.

I am not sure if that is in the directions, but I think I put it in the tutorial on Gingko Lace.

Hope this helps, let me know if you have other problems.

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

jangmb said:


> I was starting row 27 of koi ripples when I dropped a stitch :-( bungled things putting back. Too tired and frustrated to see if I can repair. Hopefully I won't be too tired tomorrow after work to salvage - otherwise it will be back to row 14. Things were going so well, I thought I could get by putting in the next life line until I started the ginkgo lace border. Guess that i thought wrong. This is a fabulous pattern and I am really enjoying working it!!!


In my personal work, I put in a lifeline every 3 pattern rows. It is tedious, but worth it. I also am starting to leave in all my lifelines...in case I see a problem between lifelines and have to go back.

So is the way of lace construction. Sometimes I go days without having to frog...other days, I frog twice...oops..but it happens..

Just say to yourself...it is only sticks and thread!


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## dragonflylace

AutumnSparkles said:


> Just found out! It is extremely important to make your life line longer than your knitted article. Guess who gets to start all over. oops!


Hi AutumnSparkles: I am sorry, let me put in a little hint here:

* LIFELINE HINT *

When I put in a lifeline, I let about 6-8 inches hang over the sides. I take a small crochet hook and about 4 inches below where the lifeline is, I pull part of this extra length into one of the outside stitches...I kinda make a little loop and then pull in the end. This secures it very well until I am ready to move it.

I have recently been leaving in my lifelines instead of removing them..this helps me to keep track of where I started a pattern repeat and also, if for some unearthly reason, I have a mistake farther down than the newest lifeline, at least I have a spare lifeline in place.

Also, be sure to kinda spread out your stitches a little when you put in your lifeline. This helps to give extra length to the lifeline to fill up the stitches.

I hope this helps.

Take care everyone!

Dragonflylace :shock:


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## nrc1940

Finally completed this beautiful shawl! I've worked hard to get it completed before expected company this weekend. Dragonfly, this is a beautiful pattern. It was difficult to see how beautiful it really was while I was knitting it. The blocking makes the nupps just pop out. Thank you so much for your excellent instruction and encouragement.


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## ballyfinnane

It is beautiful! I love the color and the design really stands out beautifully. Your work is exquisite? Congratulations on finishing it. I haven't even started on the body yet, but yours is an incentive to keep going. Wear it with great pride!


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## TLL

Oh my gosh! Your stole is wonderful! Congratulations on such a beautiful job and for getting it done so quickly!!! Enjoy your company this weekend!


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## eshlemania

I knew you would get done first. It is absolutely gorgeous!!! I am almost done with the second border/edging and will be starting the body. It is wonderful to see someone ahead with such a beautiful finish!


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## jangmb

Totally beautiful!!! What a fabulous pattern. Your work is superb as always. it still amazes me how the pattern/stitches come to life with blocking. Way to go!!


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## sharon05676

NRC, it's beautiful! Love the color and what a great job blocking it. Inspiration for me to get busy!


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## Jacki

So inspiring!!! Lovely! I'm on body repeat #8.


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## vermontmary

Wow!!! That is a gorgeous shawl...GORGEOUS!!!! Your knitting is so perfect, and the color is lovely... Fabulous job... I aspire to your level of skill and artistry!


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## clkay

beautiful job; love the color


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## nrc1940

Thanks so much to everyone. I'm absolutely thrilled with the way it turned out.


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## busheytree

You've done a wonderful job!! Wow!! Love the color too.
Thanks for sharing.


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## Blueathlone

Gorgeous shawl and beautifully knitted and blocked.
So happy for you.


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## Revan

Very beautiful!!!! Congratulations.


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## nrc1940

Jacki if you're on the 8th repeat it won't take you long to finish. It went faster toward the end.


Jacki said:


> So inspiring!!! Lovely! I'm on body repeat #8.


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## Jacki

All I need is time to knit.  I do find that it goes much faster as I go. It is such a lovely pattern and a joy to knit. I'm even enjoying the once dreaded nupps! Now....who thought I'd end up saying that!?!



nrc1940 said:


> Jacki if you're on the 8th repeat it won't take you long to finish. It went faster toward the end.


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## tmlester

What a beautiful shawl! You did a masterful job and so quickly!!! I'm still on the third body repeat, but am also doing a few other projects at the same time. I only hope mine turns out as lovely


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## dragonflylace

nrc1940 said:


> Finally completed this beautiful shawl! I've worked hard to get it completed before expected company this weekend. Dragonfly, this is a beautiful pattern. It was difficult to see how beautiful it really was while I was knitting it. The blocking makes the nupps just pop out. Thank you so much for your excellent instruction and encouragement.


Wow, nrc1940!!!

It is really beautiful. You have made another beautiful shawl.

Enjoy your company!

I love the color also.

:thumbup: :thumbup:

Dragonflylace


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## Jenval

nrc1940 said:


> Finally completed this beautiful shawl! I've worked hard to get it completed before expected company this weekend. Dragonfly, this is a beautiful pattern. It was difficult to see how beautiful it really was while I was knitting it. The blocking makes the nupps just pop out. Thank you so much for your excellent instruction and encouragement.


nrc1940 your spring dance is stunning, I love the color to, I am only on the 3rd repeat of the body making things for grnchildren in between just finish a dress for my 7 year old gd now back to my spring dance shawl.


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## nrc1940

I put my Christmas knitting on hold while I worked on spring's dance. Now I have some catching up to do. I'm looking forward to seeing your stole.



Jenval said:


> nrc1940 your spring dance is stunning, I love the color to, I am only on the 3rd repeat of the body making things for grnchildren in between just finish a dress for my 7 year old gd now back to my spring dance shawl.


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## Jenval

nrc1940 said:


> I put my Christmas knitting on hold while I worked on spring's dance. Now I have some catching up to do. I'm looking forward to seeing your stole.


We are getting ready to go into our winter and the granchildren have grown out of things so have knit for them as well, I have 5 and my 14 year old gs wants a cable jumper the pattern is very full on so it will be fun working on both mind you I love working with cables, so cables and lace are the two things I love to work with especially the fine yarns for lace done baby jackets in fine 3 ply yarn that we have but never a shawl in 2 ply and I admit love working on this project. Actually it should be getting quite cool here now but where I am still getting some warm weather have had the air conditioner on.


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## dragonflylace

Hello everyone. 

I have noticed that no one is writing in with questions or comments. I miss hearing from you. Please let me know what you are doing. Where are you in your project ? Ar you doing okay with nupps? Please, let me hear from you. I haven't received an notice of postings since the 27th. Maybe everyone was busy on the weekend, anyway, let me hear your problems and concerns. 

Thanks and looking forward to hearing from you.

Dragonflylace


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## lucy'sdaughter

You will be inundated with posts now! I have just started on the main body and have changed over to circs. and it was much easier than I anticipated - like most new things. My nupps annoy me as they will stay at the back of the work - but I hope like the lady who has already finished her shawl they will reveal themselves after washing and blocking.


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## kaixixang

I'm hoping for an easier pattern. I've stored the Spring's Dance Shawl...but will have to work up to it. Cluster stitches are more advanced...and I've only 6-7 years experience knitting. I've only worked cluster stitches in crochet...and THAT after 10-20 years. Keep up the good work y'all!


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## Designer1234

It is nice to see the conversation again. You guys must all have been busy working on your scarves! We hate to see it too quiet around here.

No one should hesitate to post here, and I hope you will post as often as you wish. These lace workshops are outstanding and conversation is a big part of it. Read the daily digest tomorrow. I expressed there what I think of this group. *I am looking forward to seeing more scarves. nrcl940's was glorious so lets see some more works in progress? I wan't to open a Parade soon*.

Designer.


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## Jacki

Well.....I have been busy socially and knitting......when I'm not being social!  I've just gotten to row 11 on the body's 10 pattern repeat. I hope to get more done tomorrow as I"m not babysitting. Actually, I'm not having any problems with this awesome pattern....once I "licked" the nupps! I'm just in love with knitting it!

Howdy y'all!!! Keep working on the nupps! Don't give up!


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## Designer1234

glad to see you back Jacki- we missed you. don't forget to post a picture of the springs dance, even part of it.


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## ballyfinnane

I am finishing up the second ginkgo Lace Border. The nupps are going fine but I have had to frog back to lifeline 2x in two days because I lost a stitch and in the process of trying to repair it I did more damage. Heavy sigh, pick up lifeline stitches, and rrrrrip. Tonight it went well. Will be able to begin the body tomorrow. I am enjoying it when it goes well and I love my yarn. Just a suggestion to Designer 1234, the Wingspan was very enticing and I was distracted by the posts and wanting to start one. I resisted because I am a one project at a time knitter. A little more time between very cool workshops would be greatly appreciated because I really wanted to participate in the Wingspan along with the others. Love these workshops. Thanks.


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## Ronie

I'm working away on the body of my shawl too.. as I thought I have been missing some emails about posts here... I'm going to reset it... its so good to see so many in here.. last I checked there were no new posts..  
NRC your stole is beautiful.. I love the color and how fresh it looks.. your nupps are perfect and you did such a nice job of blocking.. I can see you really took your time..
I'm almost on my 5 th repeat and I am crossing my fingers that the more repeats we do the quicker it goes.. I have more trouble on my purl side back than I do on the pattern side.. I seem to get in a rhythm just as my knitting time is up or disturbed... I can't wait to see how others have turned out.. NRC I hope you will show us what it drapes like off the blocking wires. I know the one finished end of mine is so soft I hope the whole thing is just a nice..


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## Ronie

Jacki said:


> I'll see if I can get a picture of my work in progress. I'll do a mock block....this is sooooo much fun!


 :thumbup: :thumbup: I agree..... I would love to see it!!


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## eshlemania

I just finished my second border/edge. Tomorrow I will start the body. I have another knitting project that needs to get
done, so I have to divide my knitting time.

I am pleased with my nupps. The tutorial Dragonflylace gave us really helped me. It's so easy now.


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## wwrightson

I have completed one border and now working on the second. Have not had any questions thanks to others asking them first. I have an afghan that is about 12 inches from completion. It's one of those projects that I'm not sure I'll live to see it done--VERY tired of it at this point but determined to finish it. I've also followed the posts on three other workshops that I very much want to do also. Then company hit this weekend leaving almost no time to knit for the last week. Hopefully, I'm back on track again and can make a little progress. Sorry we left you thinking we'd all deserted the project. You've done such a wonderful job that we just don't have a lot of questions, especially if we completed the Winter's Mirage shawl also. Thanks so much.


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## vermontmary

I'm just starting on my second Koi/Ginko end... it's going more smoothly than the first; I'm putting lifelines in all the time, as un-doing and fixing the stitches doesn't go well for me at all. In this skinny yarn and my seemingly tension-less knitting with it, the stitches look unfamiliar. I hope blocking will reveal the pattern better, once I get to that point!! 
I've been traveling and internetless, so have been able neither to knit regularly nor to join the forum for a few days.
This is a major project for me... I don't usually take on such big complicated knitting challenges, but I'm glad I did! 
I saw a video on finishing nupps on the knit side instead of on the purl side, and am tempted to try that method when I get to the ginko section again, as it completely eliminates the problem of not messing up the surrounding stitches. I will probably resist, though, as learning nupps one way was such a hurdle for me I'm not sure I want to try to teach myself another way!!!!
I'm looking forward to more pictures of shawls!!!


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## dragonflylace

Hi Everyone: I am so glad to hear from you. Most of you all seem to be doing well. I know the nupp stitch is difficult. Thought I would address a few concerns I saw in your posts.

* MISSING OR LOSING A STITCH *:

"ballyfinnane" said: "I am finishing up the second ginkgo Lace Border. The nupps are going fine but I have had to frog back to lifeline 2x in two days because I lost a stitch and in the process of trying to repair it I did more damage. Heavy sigh, pick up lifeline stitches, and rrrrrip. Tonight it went well. Will be able to begin the body tomorrow. "

I wrote a document and it is now on Page 4 of Workshop #6 - Preparation Workshop for Learning Lace. It is a PDF and word document. Here I presented ways to correct mistakes.

Most of this information is on how to TINK (or unknit) when you find a mistake just a few stitches back. But there are other ways also to repair your work when you are on the purl side and you discover a problem on the last pattern row you knitted.

So I am preparing a document that will explain how to pick up stitches such as YOs when you discover you are missing a stitch. I will also cover how to put in a decrease that is missing (such as a SKP or K2tog. Fixing a nupp; putting one in or changing where you put it is not recommended. I have tried to do this and I ended up giving up, so I think if you put a nupp in the wrong place, you should probably TINK that one row or go back to your lifeline.

*The document will be up a little later today. I would like to post it so you can print it out as a download and save it to a notebook.*

That brings to mind another hint I would like to pass along:

* KEEPING A NOTEBOOK OF YOUR WORK ON A PATTERN*

On every project I work on, I keep all the information in a folder or a folder with pockets or 3-prong holders. I keep a copy of the charts and written instructions and my written notes. This way, when I want to knit that pattern again, I have my notes of places I had problems; how I fixed the problems; and anything else that might help me when I go back to that pattern.

I also have a 3-ring heavy binder of reference materials. In this notebook, I keep items I photocopied from my books along with items I have found on the internet. I use this notebook often. (I put information on knitting in the round; picking up stitches; repairing stitches; knitting socks, sweaters, hats; and anything else that I consider knitting information.

So I encourage you to first of all, keep a folder of some kind on each project and to also begin to build a reference notebook of what you have learned about knitting.

Other notebooks I keep on lace knitting include: articles on the history of lace knitting; Estonian Knitting; Orenburg Knitting; traditional American knitting and crochet; and Antique Patterns.

Will post again later today.

Again, so glad you are all back. Keep writing in. I am going to address every concern and problem.

Dragonflylace

:thumbup: :thumbup:


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## Blueathlone

For me, I have to set this pattern aside for now. I find the lace weight yarn a problem to work with and therefore am not enjoying the experience as I did Winters Mirage. So I said to myself...do what you enjoy, what isn't a chore. Sooo...I am knitting another Winters Mirage with Knit Picks stroll glimmer. It is working up nicely and what is more important I am enjoying the experience. My hope is to find a yarn that is a little bit heavier then I will try Springs Dance again. I will be happy to see everyone's finished product...NRC1940's is gorgeous.


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## clkay

exciting day; I have completed the shawl; now I just have to block it and take pictures. I don't have blocking wires; anyone have a replacement; out local stores charges 29.00 for blocking wires . I tried buying fencing wire (doesn't rust) but it was too pliable. I don't want to use a million pins.


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## dragonflylace

clkay said:


> exciting day; I have completed the shawl; now I just have to block it and take pictures. I don't have blocking wires; anyone have a replacement; out local stores charges 29.00 for blocking wires . I tried buying fencing wire (doesn't rust) but it was too pliable. I don't want to use a million pins.


There was a posting of a woman using the wire that welders use. It just has to be wiped clean (or cleaned with damp rag, then wiped). She said they were very much the same as the ones sold at LYS or on the internet. You really only need about 1/2 dozen or so...I have used 2 of mine on each side and one at the top and bottom. But for Spring's Dance, I used pins at the top and bottom
so I just needed 4.

You could buy a small amount and see if they work for you.

Can't wait to see your stole.

Dragonflylace


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## nrc1940

I'm so excited to see your shawl. Congratulations!



clkay said:


> exciting day; I have completed the shawl; now I just have to block it and take pictures. I don't have blocking wires; anyone have a replacement; out local stores charges 29.00 for blocking wires . I tried buying fencing wire (doesn't rust) but it was too pliable. I don't want to use a million pins.


----------



## flladyslipper

I have just started working on the body of my stole. I have my two edges finsihed and I think they are good. I also see the pattern more after blocking. I started my notebooks with our first class and refer to it whenever I need to. The last two weeks have been a test to keep knitting as my airconditioner went out and it was very hot. This week the test continues as yesterday I found out that I have a leak somewhere in the hot water line under the slab of the house. So progress is slow, but whenever I can I pick up my knitting to feel like I have some order to my life. Happy knitting everyone.


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## sharon05676

Just finished my second edge and will start the border as soon as I stop typing! As others have said, the second one goes faster than the first. My goal is to get into the body before traveling north to Vermont. Time is running short but a worthy goal to push for. Also need to print out the instructions for fixing mistakes. Thanks DFL!


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## dragonflylace

tmlester said:


Thanks for the encouragement! I too keep a notebook of all my knitting tips and tricks. It has all my info from the different cast ons and cast offs, with everything I have found that goes inbetween. I've found it invaluable at times and keep adding to it. In fact, now that I think about it, I need a bigger binder!!!


Hi, I know what you mean...I have 15 notebooks and binders. There is no hope for me.

But what ever you call it, at least my "stuff" is labeled!! :shock: :?:


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## Jacki

I'm a slacker!!! I haven't started a "hard copy notebook" yet, but do have everything electronically organized. I just have to "send out" my requests for printing as I gave up my color printer because I never used it often enough to make the expensive cartridges worthwhile. I also tend to reprint my charts when I start another project because I tend to make notes on them, and they don't always apply to the next one....and I fold them...etc. 

You tips are awesome DFL!


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## vermontmary

I have a gazillion file folders full of stuff... One for workshop #6, one for each of the projects so far... I don't know if I'll go all the way to punching the holes and sticking them into actual notebooks though!!
I'm nearing the end of my second edging, looking forward to tackling nupps again (erk), and I'm surprised how much better this one looks than the first one... I hope I don't end up thinking I have to redo the first one! 

I'll be glad to have the mistake fixing PDF... it really is time for me to be able to function without a lifeline after EVERY purl row!!!!!


----------



## sisu

I am just on the first ginkgo boarder. I keep finding mistakes (forgot to slip the stitch over the knit 2 together, didn't catch a loop in one of the nupps and didnt see it til way later)and having to go back to fix. Looking forward to the mistakes PDF. I am just taking it all as a learning experience. I really am getting much better at doing the nupps. Slow and steady, I will hopefully get to having this beautiful shawl. Thanks for all your suggestions.


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## dragonflylace

sisu said:


> I am just on the first ginkgo boarder. I keep finding mistakes (forgot to slip the stitch over the knit 2 together, didn't catch a loop in one of the nupps and didnt see it til way later)and having to go back to fix. Looking forward to the mistakes PDF. I am just taking it all as a learning experience. I really am getting much better at doing the nupps. Slow and steady, I will hopefully get to having this beautiful shawl. Thanks for all your suggestions.


Hi sisu, sorry I couldn't tell you this soon, but for everyone, here is a hint of repair a loop in a nupp 

*FIXING A NUPP*

If you are purling back and notice that a loop did not get purled in a nupp (or even more than one)...do not rip out or go back. Just put in a safety pin in that nupp.

At the end of your project when you are blocking, you can take a tiny piece of yarn, catch the loop(s) in the yarn, make a loose over hand loop (like you are going to tie a knot, but don't go back to the second part of a knot...) Now work in the ends of the yarn. I guarantee you will NEVER see this or even be able to find that nupp once you have blocked it. My sample of Spring's Dance had 3 of these sort of repairs and I promise, I cannot find them. You are basically just using a small piece of yarn to tie the loop into place. Just be sure to work in your ends.

By the way, all you knitters, this is so wonderful. When you write in your concerns, I can usually find a way to have a little hint or lesson for everyone to learn from. This is how it should be with a workshop. You give me problems and I will do my best to solve them.

You guys are great. More to come later today.

Dragonflylace


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## TLL

More to come later today.

Dragonflylace

I can't wait. I so enjoy all that we are learning from you! God bless, TLL


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## Ronie

I don't know about anyone else but all the posts have pushed me to work on my stole even more... thanks everyone... I really needed it,,,and I read there's another one done?? wow thats a lot of knitting..  I look forward to seeing it...


----------



## busheytree

I am almost finished with my second border and the nupps are working great for me. I am really excited about starting the body soon. So far, so good. I never thought I'd get this far in lace knitting. I am so excited about being able to follow the charts!! Actually I'm now finding it easier to do than the written instructions....how about that for growing!! Thanks for sharing your gift. I need blocking wires and pins so when I actually get what I've done blocked I will have my kids show me how to download a picture to share.


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## dragonflylace

*GOOD AFTERNOON EVERYONE*

I promised a little lesson on repairing mistakes in lace knitting and I hope this helps a little.

*HOW TO REPAIR OR PICK UP A STITCH IN LACE PATTERNS*

The following information will help you to repair mistakes on the purl side of your pattern. Remember, if you look at the row of pattern stitches WHILE you are purling back, you will find where you might have missed a decrease (SKP, or K2tog) or an increase (YO).

*MISSING A YARN OVER:* This is one of the easiest problems to solve. In between each stitch, there is a little strand that is called a bar in knitting. It is the working yarn that connects two stitches together in a row. Since a YO is made simply by slipping the working yarn over your needle, it is basically this little bar, but no stitch. If you come to a place in the pattern where a YO was supposed to be, then you can just lift the bar between the two stitches where the YO was supposed to be, give it a little tug to stretch it out a little and there you have it. Now you have a YO, where there was none before.

￼

*A YARN OVER WHERE THESE SHOULDNT BE ONE:* This is another easy stitch mistake to fix. Although you may think there will be a big gap, there really wont be. If you put in a YO where you should not have put one, just drop it. Tighten your tension, and continue purling across. By the next row, the little gap will be gone...if you normally knit with a tight tension, it may be gone immediately.
*YOU MADE A K2TOG OR SKP WHEN YOU SHOULD NOT HAVE: * When you get to these stitches, just gently separate them, straighten them on your needle and purl them each separately. It may seem a little off, but as in #2 above, it will straighten out.

REMEMBER: To keep your stitch count the same, every YO must have a matching SKP or K2tog. So if you remove an SKP or K2tog, you need to make sure that your stitch count is correct.

* PUTTING IN A SKP OR K2TOG WHEN THERE ISNT ONE:*This is a little more tricky, but it can be done. First, you need a crochet hook, you should already have one on hand. You may also use a cable needle, of double pointed needle for this. When you come to a place where there should be a decrease and there wasnt one, you need pull the stitches over each other correctly. Remember an SKP will lean to the left (on the Right Side) and a K2tog will lean to the right (on the Right Side)...To make sure you get them correct, you will probably have to turn your work around (unless you can think backwards easily). When you do this (and remember, you are in the middle of purling back on the WS...please take the time to secure your needle ends with a needle guard, paper clip, clothes pin, or (my personal favorite) a little clip that holds many sheets of paper together. I have these in my knitting baggy...they go everywhere with me. After you get these stitches correctly over each other, dont forget, you still have to purl them, so make sure they get back on your left needle and purl them...continue on with your purling.
*MOST IMPORTANT:* Try keep track of your pattern and purl rows. If you get into the habit of counting your stitches in each section as you knit them AS WELL as when you purl them, you will find your mistakes quickly. I have made these my Knitting Bible Verses.....count your stitches, count your stitches....always count your stitches.

So, I hope this helps you to fix little mistakes as you come to them. As always, let me know if there are any problems or concerns.

Take care all,

Dragonflylace


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## dragonflylace

Hi, I forgot to give you a PDF copy of the last post (you know, for your notebooks...

Here it is:


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## ballyfinnane

DFL,
Thank you for writing up fixes. I look forward to the document. I have notebooks going so that the info is saved and easily available. I also include the yarn or trial samples of each pattern in plastic sleeves along with the patterns. Thanks for checking on us and being so responsive to our needs. I'm relieved to hear that others are at the same point in the project. I am enjoying it.


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## TLL

Nice diagram of the yarn over! Thank you for the quick fixes! I am proud to say that I figured out the missing yo one!!! hee hee!


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## clkay

Firsts:
first lace project
first using a chart
first nupps
first life lines
and I could not have done it without your help DFL.. thanks so much

I know it is hard to see because of the tri-color foam squares underneath the shawl but I used white Patons Sequin Lace. I may take another picture that will show the pattern better after it is dry.
Love this group; I have learned so much


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## dragonflylace

clkay said:


> Firsts:
> first lace project
> first using a chart
> first nupps
> first life lines
> and I could not have done it without your help DFL.. thanks so much
> 
> I know it is hard to see because of the tri-color foam squares underneath the shawl but I used white Patons Sequin Lace. I may take another picture that will show the pattern better after it is dry.
> Love this group; I have learned so much


It is So beautiful clay!!!!! You did a wonderful job. I love the yarn and when it dries, take another photo so we can get the full effect. Looks like you were successful on all of your "firsts"....now you are ready for anything with the word "lace" in the description.

:thumbup: :thumbup:

Dragonflylace


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## TLL

clkay said:


> Firsts:
> first lace project
> first using a chart
> first nupps
> first life lines
> and I could not have done it without your help DFL.. thanks so much
> 
> I know it is hard to see because of the tri-color foam squares underneath the shawl but I used white Patons Sequin Lace. I may take another picture that will show the pattern better after it is dry.
> Love this group; I have learned so much


Congratulations!!! Your stole is beautiful!!!


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## Ronie

Oh My that is beautiful clkay!!! I am doing mine in white too... I hope it turns out half as nice as this... great job and those are a lot of '1st' just amazing...


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## busheytree

clkay, You've done a great job!! I too am working on the same firsts as you. I am almost finished with the second border and will soon be starting the body. I hope mine will look as good as yours!! Thanks for sharing, it is spurring me on.


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## nrc1940

Beautiful job clkay. If you're like me, now I'm trying to find a dress I can wear it with.


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## eshlemania

Gorgeous, clkay!! Thanks so much for sharing.


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## Jacki

clkay.....wow....I'm soooo impressed! I've always been afraid of yarn with "bling" but wow...you have done an awesome shawl! Wish my 6th could look as good as your 1st!
Congratulations!!!!


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## mtnmama67

Jacki said:


> clkay.....wow....I'm soooo impressed! I've always been afraid of yarn with "bling" but wow...you have done an awesome shawl! Wish my 6th could look as good as your 1st!
> Congratulations!!!!


Agree-your knitting is an inspiration for me - and I am sure - otheers!

Sandra


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## sharon05676

clkay, it's beautiful! You did a great job, the white is lovely. Would love to see it draped.


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## Blueathlone

Oh this is gorgeous. I can not believe this is your first lace project as your workmanship is beautiful. Hope you will show another picture when this dries. Great yarn selection.


clkay said:


> Firsts:
> first lace project
> first using a chart
> first nupps
> first life lines
> and I could not have done it without your help DFL.. thanks so much
> 
> I know it is hard to see because of the tri-color foam squares underneath the shawl but I used white Patons Sequin Lace. I may take another picture that will show the pattern better after it is dry.
> Love this group; I have learned so much


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## Revan

You did a beautiful job! I, too, am knitting my shawl in 
"natural", reminds me of white. Revan


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## clkay

it is dry; You can see the pattern better now; I just love it


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## Ronie

Jacki said:


> OMG I'm in awe!


oh my gosh Jacki.... I agree... this is beautiful I am in awe also... I love the white.. I am looking at my yarn and I think its more of a cream but I love it all the same... 
clkay you did perfect Nupps.. your lace is so even and perfect.. you make this stole shine!!


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## tmlester

clkay, you're shawl has turned out beautifully! You did a fantastic job. I'll bet you can't wait to wear it and show it off!


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## dragonflylace

clkay said:


> it is dry; You can see the pattern better now; I just love it


clkay, it blocked beautifully.....I can see how well your knitting really was. And look at those nupps....this was your first lace and I think it looks like you have been knitting lace forever.

I really love your work....now do not go anywhere...more patterns are coming.

:roll:   :thumbup: :thumbup:

Dragonflylace


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## jangmb

OMG!! Your work is just breathtaking. Goodness I am still on the first edge.


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## eshlemania

clkay, thanks so much for giving up pics of your shawl. It is gorge-a-mus!!! I can't wait for mine to get done.


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## ballyfinnane

Clkay,
I just showed my husband your beautiful work and said "This is what I'm working on". He was duly impressed -"Oh wow!" I can't get over how perfect the designs are. Hope mine looks half as good. You rock!


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## lucy'sdaughter

Clkay. I got the same response from my hubby as ballyfinnane. Now he understands what it is all leading too (hopefully).


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## Revan

Your shawl is stunning, even more with it dry. You really did a magnificant job, congratulations! Revan


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## clkay

thanks everyone for your kind comments; I am even more proud of it because of my fellow knitters critic;
thanks so much DFL ; I always wanted to knit lace; I have always been intimated by lace patterns; but your workshop and charts made it much easier; I have always knitted baby sweaters and afghans for other people; this one is for me!


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## Blueathlone

clkay said:


> it is dry; You can see the pattern better now; I just love it


Oh clkay! How beautiful. Enjoy wearing this shawl.


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## sharon05676

clkay, it's stunning! What a fantastic job


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## sharon05676

NRC1940, I may have missed it, but have you posted a pic of your dried shawl? I'm anxious to see it draped.


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## nrc1940

Thanks Sharon
No, you didn't miss it; I've just been tying up some loose ends on other projects I let go while I was working on Spring's Dance. Thanks for reminding me. I think it is attached.



sharon05676 said:


> NRC1940, I may have missed it, but have you posted a pic of your dried shawl? I'm anxious to see it draped.


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## sharon05676

Very gorgeous NCR!


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## sharon05676

I just finished my last border! Hope to start the body tonight


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## TLL

I am so impressed - your shawl is so beautiful, NCR!


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## jangmb

Wonderful, wonderful, wonderful. Congrats to you.


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## Ronie

NRC that is beautiful... its amazine how soft it turned out after blocking... All of these are turning out so nice..


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## Jacki

Wow!!!! Another fabulous job! I love how yours draps so nicely. 

I've stopped at body repeat #11...need new ball of yarn...so I started the 2nd edging with new ball. I'm so excited to finish, but this is sure one fun journey!


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## clkay

NCR very nice shawl; love the color


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## tmlester

NRC, your shawl is wonderful! Great job!!


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## Designer1234

Any of the Winter's mirage shawls that are being finished will go into the Winter's Mirage Parade (link below)

*http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-139322-1.html*

which has been open for awhile.. I would ask that from now on you all post your pictures yourself, that way your name will be attached to them. To Open the link I have attached nrc1940's beautiful shawl. so post away

*HERE IS THE LINK TO POST THE PARADE FOR YOUR SPRING'S DANCE SCARVES OR SHAWLS*.

*http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-167408-1.html#3234711*


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## nrc1940

Thank you so much for all your encouraging comments. I plan on knitting a shawl/stole for each of my daughters and daughters-in-law (6 total) and I want at least (1) for me, so there is lots of lace-knitting in my future. I would never have dared even try lace knitting without your detailed patterns, Dragonfly. Thank you so much for your beautiful patterns.


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## Ronie

Hi everyone. I'm still knitting away.. I have nearly all of my 5th repeat done. It is going much faster though I can only knit for about 1.5 hours with this fine yarn and I'm getting between 8 and 10 rows done.. much improved over 5 to 6.. It is still going to take awhile but I am enjoying the knitting and I find the movement in the charts challenging enough to keep it exciting..
How is everyone else doing???


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## Jacki

Almost done with the 2nd edge...just a few more rows! Then I can go back to the body. I think I was on repeat 11. Been a couple of days since I looked at it.  

Have had dog emergencies...so am behind in being able to take pictures of WIP. Things must just calm down! Believe dog will be fine (impailed himself on a tree branch somewhere and has a ton of stitches and a drian....)just taking some time for the TLC.


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## eshlemania

I set mine aside for awhile  I just must get this other project done. I will be starting my lace stole again with complete freedom and no guilt Mon or Tues.


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## tmlester

After taking a break to finish a few other things including the Wingspan class with the Wren, I'm back on track and knitting away! Hope to get the next couple repeats of the body done before bed tonight! Wishful thinking maybe, but I'm motivated after seeing how far everyone seems to be


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## ballyfinnane

I have both edges done and 2 repeats of the body. The body is less frustrating-less frogging. I am really enjoying this part and get about 15 rows done each evening. The more familiar I become with the pattern the faster it should go, I'm hoping..... Night all


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## TLL

Ronie said:


> TLL it goes fairly quickly once you get going on the body.. that is if you can have a hour or 2 to knit... I really thought I was going to get that today but my husbands company sent him home today... no work.. they said it will pick up tomorrow... I may still just go in the other room and get some done after I get home from work.. at least then he can handle the puppy  I wish I could get 15 rows done a day... I'd be nearly done ... thats ok.. I'm shooting for 10 a day and its knitting so smoothly that I'll be sad when its done...


Thank you for the encouraging words, Ronie. It seems that I have time to sit down and knit a couple of rows at a time and it takes me much longer than I would like it to...just need to get that rhythm going again... :thumbup:


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## vermontmary

I've been traveling, so on some days I got a lot done (rainy days!!), others, nothing at all! I'm partway through the second ginkgo section... It's looking better than the first one... I guess practice helps!! And frequent lifelines and many many stitch markers!


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## TLL

vermontmary - many many stitch markers!

Those stitch markers are life savers!!! I haven't done the lifelines as often as others have done, so far so good - Whew! I think all of the markers and not knitting when I am tired have helped. It is going well so far...just slowly.


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## Ronie

I put life lines in after my Nupps.. I was putting it in on my first row but the first Nupps are so close to the first row I just mark my pattern and call it good... I do not want to have to frog the Nupps so that is why I do what I do... I started off putting them in more often but found it hard to see if I was making any mistakes or not.. so now with more room between when I stretch it out I see if I made a real boo boo or not...


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## Designer1234

*THIS WORKSHOP IS NOW CLOSED*

Please go to the chit chat Section on the main forum and look for

*Lace Party with dragonflylace*. There will be a new party each week and she will answer questions and have the pattern for 
Spring's dance.

Designer1234


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## prismaticr

Topic is now closed. For additional information not found on these pages. please try and private message (pm) the listed teacher.

Thank you and happy knitting/crocheting!


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