# Knitleader



## Beth Standing (Mar 22, 2011)

I love the knitleader and think it is the best thing since sliced bread, I was a member of a knitting group and was shocked that out of 12 people, I was the only one that used it, I did give a demonstration of how to use it, but people were still reluctant to try it. Once the Knitleader is mastered, you can't really go wrong. We are all different shapes, long/short arms, this means that patterns can be adjusted.x Beth


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## damemary (Mar 14, 2012)

I've never heard of it.



Beth Standing said:


> I love the knitleader and think it is the best thing since sliced bread, I was a member of a knitting group and was shocked that out of 12 people, I was the only one that used it, I did give a demonstration of how to use it, but people were still reluctant to try it. Once the Knitleader is mastered, you can't really go wrong. We are all different shapes, long/short arms, this means that patterns can be adjusted.x Beth


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## betty boivin (Sep 12, 2012)

What is it? Never heard of it!


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## cbjlinda (May 25, 2011)

me either?????


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## shan (Jul 29, 2012)

Make me #13. I just never get around to checking it out! It's on my list of things to do in 2014


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## shan (Jul 29, 2012)

It's a knitting machine accessory.


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## Monamo (Feb 14, 2013)

Never heard of it.


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## susanjoy (Aug 13, 2013)

I have a Knit Tracer for my Toyota machine but rarely use it. I prefer to work out my patterns with a calculator.


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## Beth Standing (Mar 22, 2011)

On the Brother 881, 891 it is already incorporated in the machine, not sure about the other machines x


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## Beth Standing (Mar 22, 2011)

The knit tracer is the same as the knitleader


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## Beth Standing (Mar 22, 2011)

I think the knitmaster one is called a Knitrader but may be wrong.


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## shan (Jul 29, 2012)

It's built in on one of my Singers.


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## damemary (Mar 14, 2012)

I guess we were all just reading alone & missed that this was under "Machine Knitting."


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## RWC Knits (Jan 11, 2014)

I have a Knitleader and used it quite often when i got it, but not so much now.


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## jaysclark (Jan 26, 2013)

I have the full size knitleader that I use on my 260 and the built in one on my 891. My 970 has an electronic garment designer that is fabulous. I have never worked from a written pattern and just copy the diagrams, making adjustments where I want.

I agree they are the best thing since sliced bread and very simple to learn and use. I have just used the diagram from a chunky pattern and knitted in 4 ply, making it slightly longer in the body than the diagram.


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## shan (Jul 29, 2012)

It started under "New Topics", I think that threw everybody off. lol


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## Angela c (Dec 12, 2013)

I love my knitleader, never used any thing else in 25 years of knitting.
I have a brother 836 and the knitleader fits at the back of the machine, it is a full size one, that means I can have my patterns one side and DH the other. I have a spare sheet for other knits.


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## Beth Standing (Mar 22, 2011)

I am sorry if I confused things, not been coming on kp for a few years as I have had health probs, but will try in future to put in the right placex


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## MostlyKnittingMachines (Jan 30, 2014)

If anybody would like to see exactly how a full size Brother KL116 Knitleader works, you can download the KL116 User Manual from my website, free of charge, by clicking on the following link and finding it in the list (it is 4th from the top):

http://mostlyknittingmachines.weebly.com/free-brother-knitting-machine-accessory-manuals-and-punchcard-sets.html

The User Manual for the half size knitleader (built in on the Brother KH881 and KH891 knitting machines is also on the list (3rd from the top).


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## madknitter07 (Mar 23, 2012)

It is the best thing since sliced bread :thumbup:


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## madknitter07 (Mar 23, 2012)

sorry.......


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## NanaMay (Jan 12, 2013)

I too have a knit leader for my brother machines and like susanjoy I no longer use it it takes up too much space and you have to make neccessary alterations . I find it much easier to draw a rough block with the relavent measurements and use a calculater. I knit all my garments with this method and every fit is spot on. Nanamay


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## HudsonNana (Mar 13, 2011)

would anyone know if they have a site like this Brother site for the Studio/Singer knitting machines? Thank you


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## jaysclark (Jan 26, 2013)

HudsonNana said:


> would anyone know if they have a site like this Brother site for the Studio/Singer knitting machines? Thank you


Try machineknittingetc.com


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## Linuxgirl (May 25, 2013)

I'm still on the way of trying mine out. So many other projects in the way ;-). But I'll get there. Have to watch my DVD from Diana Sullivan thoroughly until then.


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## roseknit (Apr 2, 2011)

I agree Beth, my favorite is the one in my old fine knitter, it's half size, built in .The Brother one I have is a bit cumbersome


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## macde (Aug 26, 2011)

I have a Brother 970 but have not learnt the built in design portion. It looks complicated when reading the manual. Big learning curve?


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## HudsonNana (Mar 13, 2011)

Thank you so much Jaysclark, I'll check this site out, I have a built in knitradar with my Studio 322 along with all the patterns but have never tried it. Hope to make this my new project in the next few months.


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## hjd (Dec 7, 2013)

I have had knit leaders for chunky and standard machines since I first got knitting machines in the 1980s and....never used them .I recently started machine knitting again after many years of having to work  I have now made 3 garments using knitleader and wonder why I never used it before :roll: I can now make these same garments with different yarns and textures without having to make a new pattern and only have to make a new swatch. We would all be doing a swatch any way :thumbup: Only problem is blasted grandchildren are growing so fast !! I made a cardi for myself using cheap Acrylic from The Range store just to study the knitleader process and now I am confident enough to make myself the same cardigan out of quality wool...maybe even fairisle ! Its great to not have to do all the maths for increase and decreases.


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## janetmk (Apr 11, 2013)

Agree the knit leader (brother name) is great, I now have started using knit master machines too ( knitradar) is what this is called - they work in the same way. You can truly personalise the fit so easily. Just brilliant in my opinion.


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## shawcountry (Jun 10, 2012)

Beth, I don't know why but it took me a long time before I tried my knit leader. It really makes knitting projects easy. That said, I simply need to make the time to use my machine more.


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## shawcountry (Jun 10, 2012)

I also need to learn and get using my lace carriage and colour changer too LOL.


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## 49120 (Dec 3, 2011)

Beth Standing said:


> I love the knitleader and think it is the best thing since sliced bread, I was a member of a knitting group and was shocked that out of 12 people, I was the only one that used it, I did give a demonstration of how to use it, but people were still reluctant to try it. Once the Knitleader is mastered, you can't really go wrong. We are all different shapes, long/short arms, this means that patterns can be adjusted.x Beth


I have a knitleader but have hardly used it. I have recently dug out my machine and have renewed the sponge bar. Now I just need time and space to get going and use the knitleader. If and when would you mind if I PM to you?


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## k2p2ssk (Jan 12, 2014)

knitleaders are great for skinny people...not so much for the rest of humanity, if you knit for family you have to learn how to adjust for different sizes so a piece of paper and a calculator is my preferred method = but I do use DAK and Knitwear often as they are so easy to follow.


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## janetmk (Apr 11, 2013)

Mmm- I can't see how the knit leader makes the difference if you are skinny or not? I can understand that the more well endowed might need to knit sideways but that shape could be drawn on the knit leader. Am I missing something?


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## Azzara (Jan 23, 2014)

I am confused about that too. I can't understand how the knit leader would make a difference between skinny or heavy patterns.
I must be missing the same thing.



janetmk said:


> Mmm- I can't see how the knit leader makes the difference if you are skinny or not? I can understand that the more well endowed might need to knit sideways but that shape could be drawn on the knit leader. Am I missing something?


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## jaysclark (Jan 26, 2013)

macde said:


> I have a Brother 970 but have not learnt the built in design portion. It looks complicated when reading the manual. Big learning curve?


Very simple, if a little tedious to input (old computer). You do need to go round in sequence and have a different stage for each measurement, but once you have done it a couple of times, it is easy. Sketch out your shape, write in the sizes and job done!


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## Rita in Raleigh (Aug 20, 2011)

The knitleader works fine if your full sized front or back pattern is 25 inches or less. If your front is larger than 25 inches, you cannot draw it on the mylar sheet.



Azzara said:


> I am confused about that too. I can't understand how the knit leader would make a difference between skinny or heavy patterns.
> I must be missing the same thing.


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## jaysclark (Jan 26, 2013)

Rita in Raleigh said:


> The knitleader works fine if your full sized front or back pattern is 25 inches or less. If your front is larger than 25 inches, you cannot draw it on the mylar sheet.


But that gives a 50 inch chest size which is pretty big. The largest I ever knit is a 38 or 40 if I want something baggy.


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## christine b linfield (Jun 2, 2013)

I have a Knitleader set up on my 950i and 270 . I never use bought / magazine patterns ,always draw my own . It does mean you can use any yarn with any stitch and it will fit !!


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## christine b linfield (Jun 2, 2013)

Don't you just draw the garment shape on to the sheet ? if you use different coloured pens you can draw more than one on a sheet ! no need for pen and paper !!


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## judyb45 (Feb 1, 2014)

I would be helpless without my knit leader !! Best thing EVER !! If folks ask me about a pattern I can't give one cuz I only have what I drafted on the knit leader which is different for everything because of yarn & stitch gage.


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## judyb45 (Feb 1, 2014)

I use water soluable markers to draft patterns so if there is a mistake I can "erase" it with a damp paper towel. Can "erase" the whole thing for reuse too if pattern is no longer wanted. I also put several patterns on same sheet in different colors to differentiate among them.


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## jaysclark (Jan 26, 2013)

Same here, if I had to match tension to the ones in the patterns, I would never knit anything. Just need a tension swatch and away you go.


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## janetmk (Apr 11, 2013)

Completely agree with all that is said, the only way to get the pattern you want using the yarn you love for the body you have!


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## jaysclark (Jan 26, 2013)

janetmk said:


> Completely agree with all that is said, the only way to get the pattern you want using the yarn you love for the body you have!


 :thumbup:


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## alan.codyre (Nov 4, 2013)

I couldn't survive without my knitleader. Being full size makes it the best type around. I have adapted it to fit my mid gauge singer and it saves a lot of work. What was the best thing before sliced bread ???


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## Rita in Raleigh (Aug 20, 2011)

I know it is a 50 inch chest size. Not all of us are petite <G>
I wear a woman's size 18 and am 5 ft.6. My actual bust is 45 and hips are close to 50. A sweater works best for me if it is 48-50 inches around and then it had better stretch a bit through the hips. 
If I removed all of my muscles and fat and skin I "might" fit in the size 40 that you knit as a baggy item. But, then again, maybe my skeleton would not fit in your sweater. <G>
I am really small......for a plus sized woman <G>

I know that if my swatch measures more stitches per inch than 8 that I cannot knit the whole front of a sweater on my standard gauge machine...that is why I bought a finegauge so I could have an extra 50 stitches!



jaysclark said:


> But that gives a 50 inch chest size which is pretty big. The largest I ever knit is a 38 or 40 if I want something baggy.


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## 30Knitter (Apr 9, 2012)

I have the knitleader - Brother/Knitking, Knit radar/contour (KR10) - knitmaster/silver reed/studio and DAK. The knitleader is full scale while the knit radar is half-scale. Both have worked for me for years. Of late I have used the KR 10 more because I can use it on any machine I have. And that includes the Brother/Knitking. I have even used the Knit tracer which is the Toyota one. All have their advantages and disadvantages, but as others have said once mastered are easy to use.


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## NanaMay (Jan 12, 2013)

Knitleaders or calculators it does not matter so long as we as knitters/designers get the results we want. My next remarks are forRita - do you make bust darts in your knitwear? For the larger busted ladies they can prove useful as you get more fabric at the front where you need it. I know it does not help in the hip area but perhaps someone might come up with ideas here Nanamay


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## Beth Standing (Mar 22, 2011)

Not at allx


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## Azzara (Jan 23, 2014)

30Knitter said:


> I have the knitleader - Brother/Knitking, Knit radar/contour (KR10) - knitmaster/silver reed/studio and DAK. The knitleader is full scale while the knit radar is half-scale. Both have worked for me for years. Of late I have used the KR 10 more because I can use it on any machine I have. And that includes the Brother/Knitking. I have even used the Knit tracer which is the Toyota one. All have their advantages and disadvantages, but as others have said once mastered are easy to use.


I often just use my KR10 too because it works on all my machines and it is set up with all my favorite patterns. 
Nice to hear I am not the only one that does that.


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## Rita in Raleigh (Aug 20, 2011)

Thanks,Nanamay, for thinking of me. 
I do not use darts in my knitwear, even though I know it would probably help. It would especially help with gaps in a sleeveless top, such as a vest or tank top. 
I do know to use either set in sleeves or a modified drop shoulder style (where I decrease the body at the underarm, about 2-3 inches on each side and move the square topped sleeve into this space). This moves the sleeve/shoulder seam closer to where it would be in a set in sleeve. This style if much more flattering than having the seam set down my arm and lots of fabric bulk under the arms!

I have heard that I might be able to make a bit more ease in the hip area by using a looser tension for the parts below the waist. I have not tried it yet, but it is on my list of things to try. 
I also know about doing the front or back in more than one piece. I know the techniques, but am just too lazy to try them.....and I keep thinking I am going to lose weight......been hoping for over 20 years..hahaha.

I also have the bad habit of making garments too big, which is not flattering at all. I have even had to take in some of my knitted garments (tuck stitch especially) which were just too large.

Knitleaders are great. DAK and other software are great. But everything has its limits. 
Thanks for thinking of me.



NanaMay said:


> Knitleaders or calculators it does not matter so long as we as knitters/designers get the results we want. My next remarks are forRita - do you make bust darts in your knitwear? For the larger busted ladies they can prove useful as you get more fabric at the front where you need it. I know it does not help in the hip area but perhaps someone might come up with ideas here Nanamay


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## Entity (Sep 13, 2011)

I love my KL too. There was a time, just a few months ago, eBay listings for a KL116 less than $40 USD. I've found a few bargains and now, I have a KL for each of my machine. 

I am petite and don't have a problem using a KL but I know that a lot of oversize knitters do sideways knitting. I'm wondering, wouldn't the KL also help to sketch out sideways knitting? Would that fit?


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## Rita in Raleigh (Aug 20, 2011)

Yes, Entity. The KL works for sideways knitting...up to 25 inches in length of the garment (shoulder to bottom edge). Since my sweaters are basically square, they are 25 inches wide and 25 (up to 30) inches long.

Great bargains you found on the KL's! I have sometimes gotten a KL for free when I buy a km. I do love them too.



Entity said:


> I love my KL too. There was a time, just a few months ago, eBay listings for a KL116 less than $40 USD. I've found a few bargains and now, I have a KL for each of my machine.
> 
> I am petite and don't have a problem using a KL but I know that a lot of oversize knitters do sideways knitting. I'm wondering, wouldn't the KL also help to sketch out sideways knitting? Would that fit?


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## susieknitter (Jul 14, 2011)

HudsonNana said:


> would anyone know if they have a site like this Brother site for the Studio/Singer knitting machines? Thank you


If you look at the following site you will see that there is 8 videos that show you how to use a Knitradar.......
http://myknittingmachinesandme.wordpress.com/


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## susieknitter (Jul 14, 2011)

macde said:


> I have a Brother 970 but have not learnt the built in design portion. It looks complicated when reading the manual. Big learning curve?


The best thing about owning a Brother KH970 is having the garment design feature. Please try to master it because it's brilliant. If you are stuck I'm sure that someone will help you.


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## jaysclark (Jan 26, 2013)

susieknitter said:


> The best thing about owning a Brother KH970 is having the garment design feature. Please try to master it because it's brilliant. If you are stuck I'm sure that someone will help you.


I agree with Susie. Unfortunately, the manual seems to make it seem more complicated than it actually is. In this instance don't read the whole of the instructions first, just go step by step.


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## susieknitter (Jul 14, 2011)

Rita in Raleigh said:


> The knitleader works fine if your full sized front or back pattern is 25 inches or less. If your front is larger than 25 inches, you cannot draw it on the mylar sheet.


There is two ways of using a knitleader for larger sizes. 
Draw half of the back/front but don't follow the center line on the sheet which=zero on the knitting bed. Draw the extra amount needed over the line. When you come to knit the garment add the extra stitches that are left or right of the center line...zero on the knitting bed....onto the ends of the the knitting machine/garment piece.
I only ever draw half a back/front because you know what you are knitting on one side of zero on the machine you need to knit the same on the other.
Maybe a little less confusing is to draw half of the finished size needed. If you need a sweater that is 54" wide then the back would need to be 27" If you were to draw only half of the back...13-1/2"....you still wouldn't get it on the sheet without doing what I suggested above. If however you draw the back 6-3/4" you then when casting on would double the amount of stitches.
For instance if you have drawn the half back (in half size) to the right of the center line, and it says to cast on 40st you would cast on 80st both sides of zero on the machine.
When you come to cast off for the armhole look to see how many stitches it is that needs to be casted/bound off and just do that.
The Knitmaster/Singer Radar pattern drawings are half the finished measurement of the garment. Basically you are stealing that part of their way of doing things.
I hope that you can understand this and it's some help.


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## Rita in Raleigh (Aug 20, 2011)

Thanks, Sue.
Rita



susieknitter said:


> There is two ways of using a knitleader for larger sizes.
> Draw half of the back/front but don't follow the center line on the sheet which=zero on the knitting bed.
> The Knitmaster/Singer Radar pattern drawings are half the finished measurement of the garment. Basically you are stealing that part of their way of doing things.
> I hope that you can understand this and it's some help.


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## riggy (Apr 9, 2012)

Beth Standing said:


> I love the knitleader and think it is the best thing since sliced bread, I was a member of a knitting group and was shocked that out of 12 people, I was the only one that used it, I did give a demonstration of how to use it, but people were still reluctant to try it. Once the Knitleader is mastered, you can't really go wrong. We are all different shapes, long/short arms, this means that patterns can be adjusted.x Beth


I am sorry to say that I am one of the ones who didn't get on with it very well and now I can't even use my machine as its in the loft - it will be quite a time before I can try it again!


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## mindysue08 (Apr 18, 2011)

Macde I also have the KH970 and there is a HUGE learning curve. lol I still have not mastered the row counter and learned how to make it work that is my challenge any suggestions?


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## jaysclark (Jan 26, 2013)

mindysue08 said:


> Macde I also have the KH970 and there is a HUGE learning curve. lol I still have not mastered the row counter and learned how to make it work that is my challenge any suggestions?


I found it was easy to learn. What problems are you having with the row counter?


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