# knitting machine



## denica (Sep 26, 2014)

hi there i am from sa,can any one help me,i want to creare a pattern for my knitting machine,its a empisal 360/260 l,but i dont know how to work out how many sts to co,can any one help me.



greetings denica


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## GrandmaLiz (Dec 31, 2012)

Hi

For all machine knitting you need to do a tension swatch in the yarn and stitch pattern you will use for your finished item. This will tell you how many rows and stitches per inch/2.5cm or 4 inches/10cms then it is a matter of arithmetic to calculate what you need according to the dimensions of your finished item. 

The following tells you how to make a tension swatch (taken from Machine Knitting Monthly web-site):

THE GREEN RULER
This is an excellent way of measuring the stitch and row tension of machine knitted swatches. It is as accurate as most machine knitters require and can be used on all machines. This formula is used regardless of the stitch pattern used. Start by knitting a swatch in the fabric youd like to use for your garment. This is simply to determine the tension dial number you need to use for the swatch.

TO MAKE A TENSION SWATCH
Set machine at tension selected above (MT). Make a note of tension and keep it safe!
Push 35 Ns at right and left of centre 0 to WP (70 Ns). This number is flexible, but must be over 60.
Transfer 21st stitch at each side of centre 0 to adjacent N and push empty Ns to NWP. This leaves 40 Ns in WP at centre of machine and will create a ladder at each side of 40 stitches.
Using MT and WY, cast on and K a few rows ending with carriage at right.
Change to MY and set RC at 000.
Using MT and MY, K 20 rows in the stitch pattern to be used for your garment.
Using WY in a good contrast colour, K 2 rows stocking stitch.
Change back to MY and pattern and K 60 rows.
Using WY in a good contrast colour, K 2 rows stocking stitch.
Change back to MY and pattern and K 20 rows.
Using WY, K a few rows and release from machine.

Pull the swatch gently to close up the stitches and then treat the swatch as you will treat your finished garment. Wash and dry cotton, Lambs Wool, Shetland and Cashmere yarns and do not press acrylic unless you intend killing the fabric. Leave the swatch for at least four hours or preferably overnight before measuring.

MEASURING STITCHES
Lay the Green Ruler with the end marked S on the stitch immediately inside the left ladder. The number shown on the gauge on the last stitch before the right ladder gives the number of stitches to 10 cm or 4 inches.

MEASURING THE ROWS
Lay the Green Ruler with the end marked R on the row immediately above the first two contrast rows. The number shown on the gauge next to the row before the last two contrast rows gives the number of rows to 10 cm or 4 inches.

I hope this helps.


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## susieknitter (Jul 14, 2011)

Hi Denica...welcome to the forum.
Seeing that your machine has a built in knit radar I suggest that you learn how to use this for the garment patterns. Once you have done this you can then use any of the punch card patterns that you have to create numerous different garments.
It isn't hard to learn and it is the best way of making garments in any stitch pattern, using any type of yarn, that your machine will knit.
The following site has 8 lessons showing you how to do this...plus there is also other info that you will find helpful/useful. Scroll to the bottom of the site and you will find what you need........
http://myknittingmachinesandme.wordpress.com/


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## Azzara (Jan 23, 2014)

I hadn't thought to simply drop a stitch (form a ladder) to mark the side of rows. I have always marked the swatch width with WY stitches. I believe that is how my manual told me to do it and that is proof I did and do read my manual.


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## denica (Sep 26, 2014)

Thank you so much for the advice,but I don't have a green ruler


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## denica (Sep 26, 2014)

Thank you so much for the advice,but I don't have a green ruler


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## KarlaHW (Jan 6, 2012)

denica said:


> hi there i am from sa,can any one help me,i want to creare a pattern for my knitting machine,its a empisal 360/260 l,but i dont know how to work out how many sts to co,can any one help me.
> 
> greetings denica


Do you do hand knitting? It's just the same for machine knitting. You do a swatch, a limited number of stitches wide, maybe 50, then measure it. How many inches or cm per certain number of stitches. If you measure 7 stitches per inch and need 20 inch wide garment, then you would multiply 7 with 20 to get 140 stitches. Very easy.
The green rulers that some people use do the math for you, you just measure and it tells the result.


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## denica (Sep 26, 2014)

The only thing I have is a inox knitting calculator no 8/48 and a st counting guide for knitting sample,but I'm still not sure how to use them


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## susieknitter (Jul 14, 2011)

denica said:


> Thank you so much for the advice,but I don't have a green ruler


Dencia the site I have given you tells you how to do the swatch. You can get a green ruler from any supplier/dealer or from Ebay. Please look at it because I know it will help you very much.


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## GrammaAnn (Dec 16, 2011)

denica said:


> Thank you so much for the advice,but I don't have a green ruler


http://store.dknits.com/pd-gauge-ruler.cfm You can order them here.


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## denica (Sep 26, 2014)

Thank you all so much I found a formule to help me,thanks to you all


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## denica (Sep 26, 2014)

Good afternoon everyone,I can't go on the internet,my data bundle is finished,but I'm working from my bb,I decided toe make a tension swatch first,because I am knitting with 4ply wool and I want to make a no sleeve pullover,wish me luck xxxxxx


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## denica (Sep 26, 2014)

I found my green ruler,so now I can start


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## GrandmaLiz (Dec 31, 2012)

denica said:


> Good afternoon everyone,I can't go on the internet,my data bundle is finished,but I'm working from my bb,I decided toe make a tension swatch first,because I am knitting with 4ply wool and I want to make a no sleeve pullover,wish me luck xxxxxx


Don't forget to wash and dry the swatch before you measure it for your project. I usually measure it before and after washing, there can be quite a difference in tension. Also, if it's 'industrial yarn', it will probably be spun in oi; another reason for the washing is to remove the oil and allow the yarn to 'fill out' (it often looks 'stringy' before washing).


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## denica (Sep 26, 2014)

I just steamed iron the swatch,must I wash it now,I am using 4ply wool


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## GrandmaLiz (Dec 31, 2012)

denica said:


> I just steamed iron the swatch,must I wash it now,I am using 4ply wool


Hi

Yes, you still need to wash the swatch if you haven't already done so. All natural fibres can shrink (I can't think of one off the 'top of my head' that stretches but that's not to say none do). Wash it as you intend the finished item to be washed. That said, I would never wash 100% wool in the washing machine - even 'super wash wool' which says it can be washed in the washing manchine. Mixed fibres can often be a good compromise e.g. acrylic/wool; I would wash these on a short 30 or 40 degree cycle in my washing machine.

It's a combination of temperature, agitation and time that will make the swatch change size. I hate doing swatches and I hate hand washing even more but I'm afraid it's a 'necessary evil' if you want your knitting to turn out OK. Believe me, the extra effort is well worth it. Also, you should really let your swatch 'rest' for several hours (overnight if possible) before doing anything to it. This applies to all fibres, not just natural yarns.

I hope this helps.


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## denica (Sep 26, 2014)

Thank you so much,I will go and wash my swatch now and leave it untill tommorow,I am still not sure how to use the green ruler though


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## effiemae (Feb 14, 2013)

2 wooden rulers are all you need, measure 4" across and 4" down on your swatch, mark the stitches and count how many stitches you have 4" across =? and 4" down =? divide both by 4=stitches per inch. and keep all info in a notebook.


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## denica (Sep 26, 2014)

Thank you for the advice,but here we use cm,so I'll just convert it to cm


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## effiemae (Feb 14, 2013)

4"=10cm so it will be 10cmx10cm.


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## denica (Sep 26, 2014)

I am not good at math,but I did use the calculator,what I want to know,do I multiply the two and the devide it by 10cm or do I devide it apart?


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## String Queen (Apr 9, 2012)

What great info GrandmaLiz!!! I'm new to machine knitting too and I believe this will help me Greatly when I start my first sweater. 

Thanks so much!!

Robin


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## effiemae (Feb 14, 2013)

You DON'T divide anything by 10cm.
you find the amount of stitches in 10cm 
say 32 stitches ACROSS then divide by 4 
which will give 8 stitches in 2.5cm. 
That means you will need 8 stitches for every 2.5cms 
See what the recommended GAUGE is, if it is the same OK
IF it doesn"t match the GAUGE, you have to change the tension on the carriage,and do another swatch.

Then do the same for ROWS-down (This can be adjusted if only out 2-3 rows by adding extra rows yourself)
Hope this helps, if not go to the top of page to "SEARCH" and enter SWATCH


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## effiemae (Feb 14, 2013)

Also a good video-http://youtu.be/BsWQEVfsuaE Diana Sullivan


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## denica (Sep 26, 2014)

I just watched the video and it was very helpful,now I can measure the swatch tomorrow and hopefully work out how many sts I need for my pullover,I am trying to make my own pattern for now,because it is like a vest without sleeve that you put over a shirt,I don't know what they call it exatcly.thank you all so much for all your help today,I love this site xxxxxx


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## denica (Sep 26, 2014)

I just measured it,and left to right it is 24 and up an down is 48,how do I work it out to have the right amount of sts


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## dwidget (May 30, 2011)

thanks so much i knew how to measure and figure out how many sts & rows per inch but not how to use the gauge ruler. i could never figure that one out.


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## dwidget (May 30, 2011)

thanks so much. i knew how to measure and figure out how many sts & rows per inch but not how to use the gauge ruler. i could never figure that one out.


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## KarlaHW (Jan 6, 2012)

denica said:


> I just measured it,and left to right it is 24 and up an down is 48,how do I work it out to have the right amount of sts


I don't think that is right, would be strange yarn.
You got the 24 with the green ruler and S showing, measured from the marker stitches left and right at 21?
and the 48 also with green ruler, turned over R showing, measured between the marker rows?


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## denica (Sep 26, 2014)

Yes that is the way it did it


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## KarlaHW (Jan 6, 2012)

denica said:


> Yes that is the way it did it


Ok, then 24 stitches x 48 rows make a square of 10 cm or 4 inches.
If your width is supposed to be 50 cm, then you take 2.4 x 50 = 120 stitches (or 24x5=120)
and if you want to knit a piece 30 cm long, then you do 48x3=144 rows.


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## denica (Sep 26, 2014)

Thank you so much,I'm gona take my sizes for the vest or pullover tommorow and start knitting


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## KarlaHW (Jan 6, 2012)

The swatch must be over 40 stitches and 60 rows in order to work with the green ruler.
Normally you don't have twice as many rows than stitches to get a square.
Look at the pictures if you did it this way.
In my case it's 29 stitches and 52 rows.


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## denica (Sep 26, 2014)

I did mine the same way as shown on your pictures


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## shirleycurly (Oct 31, 2011)

What make and model knitting machine, and what ply yarn?
what stitch tension on carriage?


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## denica (Sep 26, 2014)

Empisal 260/360L my tension is 6 and I am using 4ply


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## denica (Sep 26, 2014)

Oh sorry my tension is on 7


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## shirleycurly (Oct 31, 2011)

Your GAUGE should be 28 stitches across x 36 rows down recommended by yarn manufacturers for 4ply yarn. YOU MUST have THIS GAUGE or CLOSE to it

There is a vest pattern in this book (it is called a slip over (UK) or sleeveless pullover in other countries.
http://machineknittingetc.com/bramwell-machine-knitting-in-fine-4ply-magazine.html

I have 4.5 standard Knitting machines, use a lot of 4,5ply.
There is NO way you could get those (24 stitches x 48 rows)
on a tension of 7 with 4ply yarn.


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## effiemae (Feb 14, 2013)

Is that 1 machine with 2 different gauges 4.5 standard and 6.5 mid? OR 2 seperate machines?
Which gauge are you knitting on? 4ply should be knit on standard 4.5. DO YOU HAVE A MANUAL?


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## denica (Sep 26, 2014)

Hi there,yes I do have a manual,my knitting machine is a double bed machine


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## Azzara (Jan 23, 2014)

effiemae said:


> 4ply should be knit on standard 4.5.


Just to really confuse things, I have 4 ply yarn here that MUST be knitted on a 9 mm machine. It probably wouldn't knit well on a standard machine on EON


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## denica (Sep 26, 2014)

Hi there everyone I just want to correct my self,I am from south afrika,sorry I thought you would know,my status has been update,sorry ladies


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## KarlaHW (Jan 6, 2012)

Denica, 
what is the tension setting on the mast? It should be somewhere in the middle, + is higher numbers = looser tension,
- is lower number = tighter tension. Your yarn is somewhere in the middle.
If you adjust that towards the middle you still have 24 stitches, but not 48 rows, maybe more like 36 rows.

It seems your setting now is towards the +.


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## denica (Sep 26, 2014)

If you are talking about the tension dail where the yarn goes through it is on a 3 and and the garraige it is on 7!the smaller the number the looser and higher is tigher


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## KarlaHW (Jan 6, 2012)

I don't know your machine model, but essentially they are all similar. Yarn comes from the cone, first goes through tension mast, long wire spring, then in carriage with another tension dial.
I am talking about the tension dial on the mast. What are the numbers there? Is 3 about in the middle? Brother machines have no numbers on the mast, just + and -.


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## KarlaHW (Jan 6, 2012)

KarlaHW said:


> Denica,
> what is the tension setting on the mast? It should be somewhere in the middle, + is higher numbers = looser tension,
> - is lower number = tighter tension. Your yarn is somewhere in the middle.
> If you adjust that towards the middle you still have 24 stitches, but not 48 rows, maybe more like 36 rows.
> ...


I should correct myself, seems your tension on the upper mast is too tight, should be lower. Sorry for the confusion.


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## effiemae (Feb 14, 2013)

The carriage TENSION on most EMPISALS 4.5 standard
(I have 5 of them)- 
SMALLER the NUMBER on carriage dial the TIGHTER the TENSION and The HIGHER the NUMBER on the carriage The LOOSER the TENSION.


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## denica (Sep 26, 2014)

My tension dail goes up to six,3 in in your terms 3 3rd stripe near the begining


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## denica (Sep 26, 2014)

Yes effiemae that is what my mannual said the tension on the carraige is


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## denica (Sep 26, 2014)

Morning everyone I am thing of making another tension swatch,so hopefully I will get it right this time


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## denica (Sep 26, 2014)

Morning everone,I made another swatch,it is still drying but the measurement is R44 and S21 and my garraige dail is on 8


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## GrandmaLiz (Dec 31, 2012)

denica said:


> Morning everyone I am thing of making another tension swatch,so hopefully I will get it right this time


10 out of 10 for perseverence - you will get there, just keep on trying. The main things to remember with knitting machines are:

- they like to be clean (no rust, fluff or oil that has gone 'solid'
- they need some lubrication on the moving parts, needle butts and the 'rails' where the carriage travels along the needle bed. (I usually put the oil on a lint-free cloth to make sure I don't over-oil it.)
- they like a good sponge bar
- they DON'T like the carriage to be forced. If it jams or is too difficult to move don't try to make it do something it's not 'happy' with. Remove it from the needle bed if necessary to find out what the problem is.
- they need weights (except Passap)
- they need yarn that flows easily
- they like the right thickness of yarn for the guage of machine (for a standard guage machine 2-4 ply is easy but thinner or thicker* yarn [*up to a fine double knit] needs extra care. Stick to 3 or 4 ply while you are learning.
- they like the right tension set for the type/thickness of yarn

I'm sure other members can add to this list but I hope it helps.

Keep on trying 
:thumbup:


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## denica (Sep 26, 2014)

I need someones help nou,I measured my self,from my nek to where I want the size to be is 51cm and around my bust it measures 99cm.I want to make a open vest with no decreases or increases,how do I work it out now,I got 51cm x 2.5 =127 and 99x2.5=247 then I devided by 2 and got 123 is this the right way,because my tension is 44 rows and 41 sts


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## effiemae (Feb 14, 2013)

I am afraid I don't understand, one minute it is "I made another swatch,it is still drying but the measurement is R44 and S21 and my garraige dail is on 8" THEN it is "my tension is 44 rows and 41 sts" I am confused and I think that those measurements are both WRONG.


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## denica (Sep 26, 2014)

My measurment with the green rules is21 sts an 44 rows so far,and I putted the garraige dail on 8,I can't get the right tension swatch knitted


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## denica (Sep 26, 2014)

Sorry I meant the ruler


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## effiemae (Feb 14, 2013)

Try the CARRIAGE Dial on 7-1. what does that fabric you knitted feel like-loose or tight? 
I don't use those green rulers- I just use 2 wooden rulers and count stitches across and down. If I do not have enough stitches I tighten the Stitch dial on the CARRIAGE until I get the right amount STITCHES in 10cms across and usually the ROWS are pretty close to what I want. My machines don't have knit leader or knit rader so no use for Green rulers. If you knit with 21stsx44rows you will have a problem.


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## effiemae (Feb 14, 2013)

Is your 4ply like baby yarn or sock yarn.. I am in AUSTRALIA.
I use 3,4,5,and DK, and 8ply OEN. on my Empisals (kh90,kh91,2xkh680 and 820. +2 singers and an Lemer Helvetia.)


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## denica (Sep 26, 2014)

The fabric is loose


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## denica (Sep 26, 2014)

4ply is a little bit smaller that dk wool


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## effiemae (Feb 14, 2013)

I think your tension needs to tighten, try down to 6+ ( on carriage) until you get more stitches per 10cm, this will pull the length of your stitches up. Look try this knit a long sausage tigtening your tension until it is nearly 28stsx36rows. 
I still don't think the green ruler measurements are correct.

I tried to-night and I cannot knit 21stsx44rows, I tried several tensions. I went 8,9,10 still could do it, But keep trying.


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## KarlaHW (Jan 6, 2012)

denica said:


> I need someones help nou,I measured my self,from my nek to where I want the size to be is 51cm and around my bust it measures 99cm.I want to make a open vest with no decreases or increases,how do I work it out now,I got 51cm x 2.5 =127 and 99x2.5=247 then I devided by 2 and got 123 is this the right way,because my tension is 44 rows and 41 sts


Your math is right, but I still think something is wrong with your swatch. Yes tighten the tension on the carriage.
Can you take a picture of your swatch with the rulers laying on top of it and show to us? This would help.
Otherwise just start knitting the back like you think it should be, in stockinette. That goes very fast and then you see if it fits. If it does not, unravel.


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## denica (Sep 26, 2014)

I am gona try to put pictures of how I measure it


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## denica (Sep 26, 2014)

I did put 2 pictures on,hope you can see


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## KarlaHW (Jan 6, 2012)

I can see the pictures, even the ruler is not quite clear.
In looking at the stitches, first picture, your knitting is very sharp and I can count 43 stitches from marker to marker.
You are supposed to put the marker in at 21 left and right, then between the markers you have 40 stitches. Did you do that and I counted wrong?
Second pictures with the rows, yes your rows look short, meaning you have to knit more rows to achieve a certain distance. But I cannot count the rows from the pictures, needs to be 60 in order to work with the ruler. Are you sure you knitted 60 rows and not maybe 40?
Sorry for doubting you, something just does not look right.


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## denica (Sep 26, 2014)

Ok let's do this,can you maybe tell me how to do the tension swatch exactly right,I will do it your way and then mabe I can see where I was wrong


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## KarlaHW (Jan 6, 2012)

denica said:


> Ok let's do this,can you maybe tell me how to do the tension swatch exactly right,I will do it your way and then mabe I can see where I was wrong


I normally cast on 60 stitches, from 30 left to 30 right. (Experienced people probably tell you to do at least 70 stitches)
Fast cast on, e wrap , anything you like, knit a few rows, then one marker row in a different color. Then set row counter to 0 and knit 60 rows, then marker row with different color, a few more rows in your main yarn and cast off.
On row 20 and 40 put a marker, a short piece of contrast color yarn, in stitch 21 left and right.
I normally do in row 20 and 40, but it does not need to be exactly that row, could be in row 30 only.
Then wash swatch or block only.
Measure like you did stitches from marker on row 20 or 40 side to side, and rows between the marker rows. All with green ruler.
As you have the green ruler use it, but with a little bit of math you can do it with a regular cm or inch ruler.


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## denica (Sep 26, 2014)

The wool I am using is mirage 4ply 100 % acrylic ,they say on the back 26sts and 36 rows and tension is 10cm x 10cm,that's for hand knitting,is it the same for machine knitting?


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## KarlaHW (Jan 6, 2012)

denica said:


> The wool I am using is mirage 4ply 100 % acrylic ,they say on the back 26sts and 36 rows and tension is 10cm x 10cm,that's for hand knitting,is it the same for machine knitting?


Yes should be about the same for machine knitting.
Start with tension 7, if it's to tight, stiff, go to a higher number. If it's too loose, too airy stitches, go to a smaller number to tighten the tension.


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## denica (Sep 26, 2014)

My 3rd attempt: sts is 23,rows are 53 and my carraige number is on 6


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## KarlaHW (Jan 6, 2012)

denica said:


> My 3rd attempt: sts is 23,rows are 53 and my carraige number is on 6


I guess if the knitted fabric feels good to you, not too loose, not to tight, then use this setting.
Now you want to make an open vest neck to bottom 51 cm, bust size 99 cm?
Do the back 50 cm wide, 23x5=115 stitches to cast on. You can do ribbing or just a seam. You would need 270 rows to reach 51 cm. That is the back in the middle. Don't forget the decrease for the arm holes sometime earlier.


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## denica (Sep 26, 2014)

Hi karla,I am not sure about the dec of sts,I want to make just 3 blocks,2 for the front and 1 for the back


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## KarlaHW (Jan 6, 2012)

Ok, start with the back, 115 stitches, should give you 50 cm wide piece, knit 270 rows.


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## Ferol Pat (Jun 18, 2013)

Hi
If you are near Pretoria, Engela's in Pretoria North can get one for you
012 546 5584 (or she might have in stock)
Regards
Ferol - Florida West Rand


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## denica (Sep 26, 2014)

I just finished my back for my openvest,but now I am not sure what is the best way to cast off my sts


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## KarlaHW (Jan 6, 2012)

denica said:


> I just finished my back for my openvest,but now I am not sure what is the best way to cast off my sts


http://www.bivens.ca/caston_off.htm
Read this for some ideas to cast off. I like the back stitch cast off.
Are you going to knit a neckband? Then you could take off on waste yarn. I always like the shoulders on waste yarn, but if this is your very first knitted piece, you might like to just bind off and sew the pieces together.


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## denica (Sep 26, 2014)

Because its my first garment I am not gona dec any sts,I don't know how yet,I am still learning the knitting machine


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## denica (Sep 26, 2014)

Because its my first garment I am not gona dec any sts,I don't know how yet,I am still learning the knitting machine


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