# Sewing up with a serger



## Tres Gatos (Mar 6, 2013)

Tips, please, on sewing up completed garments with a serger. 3 or 4 threads, stitch width, differential setting etc? I enjoy sewing hand knits in front of the TV, but can't face mattress stitching a fine machine knit sweater I've just finished for my husband.

Also, what gives the best results - by hand, sewing machine or serger?


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## Siouxiq (Aug 26, 2011)

I think by hand is the best way to go. Although I have gotten extra large sweaters from the thrift store and cut them down to size, then sewed them with my sewing machine.


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## susieknitter (Jul 14, 2011)

I prefer my garments hands sewn and wouldn't even consider using a serger.
The only other way that I sometimes sew garments up is on my Hague linker.


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## ValT (Aug 15, 2012)

The final sewing up of a knitted item can give it a professional finish if it's done with care. It's worth taking the time and trouble to do this by hand. 

Mattress or kitchener stitch is the best method for an almost invisible seam.

Val


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## lesternewton (May 24, 2012)

I don't use my serger for sewing together garments which I knit. I use just a regular sewing machine on straight stitch. It works.


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## gator007 (Sep 14, 2011)

After machine knitting many skirts and pants, I found that using the sewing machine with the zipper foot gave the best seam for the knits. I was taught this at a machine knitting seminar for making pants/slacks. Wouldn't do it any other way. try it on a swatch. However I do agree that the mattress stitch is a very neat seam, but it is very tedious doing up pants/slacks/skirts.


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## apette (Mar 15, 2012)

I would suggest if you want to sew up using your serger, you make a swatch or two on the KM and then play around with the differential feed on the serger. Different yarns will use a different setting on the serger. Also you will be able to see what the finished result will look like before you attempt this on the true garment. Good luck.


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## rainbirdoz (Nov 7, 2012)

I have always hand sewn my garments but having just bought a new Babylock overlocker I plan to try sewing up a garment using it. I would use no more than a narrow3thread overlock stitch so that the seam is quite fine. I would also use a fIrly long stitch so that the edge doesn't become too hard and rigid. Of course, if your overlocker has a chain stitch, Inthink that would probably be even better - almost like sewing with a linker.

Even good quality knitteda are sewn using an overlocker these days and if commercial manufacturers can successfully do it, why shouldn't we. I agree that you must try various settings out with swatches to see what suits best.

Sheila
Western Australia


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## rainbirdoz (Nov 7, 2012)

I have always hand sewn my garments but having just bought a new Babylock overlocker I plan to try sewing up a garment using it. I would use no more than a narrow3thread overlock stitch so that the seam is quite fine. I would also use a fIrly long stitch so that the edge doesn't become too hard and rigid. Of course, if your overlocker has a chain stitch, Inthink that would probably be even better - almost like sewing with a linker.

Even good quality knitteda are sewn using an overlocker these days and if commercial manufacturers can successfully do it, why shouldn't we. I agree that you must try various settings out with swatches to see what suits best.

Sheila
Western Australia


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## Saroj (Dec 2, 2011)

R


Tres Gatos said:


> Tips, please, on sewing up completed garments with a serger. 3 or 4 threads, stitch width, differential setting etc? I enjoy sewing hand knits in front of the TV, but can't face mattress stitching a fine machine knit sweater I've just finished for my husband.
> 
> Also, what gives the best results - by hand, sewing machine or serger?


I sew all my sweater seamless. The method I use is go up the tight stitch and down the loose st on the same side of the garment and than crossover and do the other side up the tight st and down the loose st. Sometimes in machine knitting the tight st is too tight. In that case I go the loose st however on the other side I go back to the old st. Up the loose st on one side and down the loose st on the same side crossover and go over the old loose st and down the next st on the same side. Happy sewing!


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## NoIdleHands (Nov 24, 2012)

I once cut up a ramie/cotton worn and outdated commercially made sweater to use as utility cloths and serged the edges. The knit stretched while serging, depending, of course, the serging in relation to the knit. The wavy, serged edges worked for me and those utility cloths are still going strong ten+ years later. I wouldn't serge my hand knits.


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## euvid (Apr 2, 2011)

Having taught classes on using the serger, I have to correct some advice given. With knits you must first consider the type of stitches that were used on the garment pieces. If it is a loose knit with large stitches you have to use a wide stitch on the serger so that you can get all the stitches in so it doesn't fall apart or run. The length of the stitch is also determined by the length of the stitches on the knitted piece. If they are small stitches you have to set your serger to sew stitiches that are close together, almost satin stitches. If you are knitting on a 3.5mm KM then you should serge each piece indivdualy to finish the edges and then put the 2 pieces toether and sew them on your regular sewing machine with a short and narrow zig zag stitch. SO the bigger and wider the stitch, the wider the stitch and longer on the serger, but a shorter length than the knitting on the sweater. If it is not a fine sweater and you don't really care about the seam as you are giving it to a child that will outgrow it in a few months you cna sew it together on the serger with the wider stitch as you won't mind the added bulk that you get sewing it on the serger. A fine knit- short stitch length and not to wide a width but best to do the 2 step method. Edges first then sewing machine like regular fabric but with the ZZ
1st however you should pin your piece to some butcher paper and then sew it with a large basting stitch to the paper and cut the paper away from beyond the edge of the knitting. THis is to stabalize it. Then you can sew it on the serger and tear away the paper when done. You can also use a tear away stabalizer. 
If your machine has a diffrential, use it.

Putting it together by hand is of course the best way for hand knits You won't have the extra bulk. If using the serger do use good serging thread not the ones in the dollar bins.


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## Piper Too (Oct 27, 2012)

Zig Zag sewing up is not necessary. I sew up very successfully on plain stitch. After all, most thread these days is polyester, & that has a little movement in it.

I only ever did one row of stitching on garments for sons from early ages, & never had a seam break.

Jumpers you buy are all overlocked.


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## nwjasu (Nov 8, 2011)

Sew it up using a loose latch hook (machine knitting needle) just like a crochet hook and sew a chain stitch down the seam.
Pay careful attention to yarn tension for a stretchy yet firm seam. This is in the same seam put on full fashion sweaters with a 'cup seamer' machine. A serger is for cut to size knit fabric, so the edge is secured.


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## NoIdleHands (Nov 24, 2012)

euvid said:


> Having taught classes on using the serger, I have to correct some advice given. With knits you must first consider the type of stitches that were used on the garment pieces. If it is a loose knit with large stitches you have to use a wide stitch on the serger so that you can get all the stitches in so it doesn't fall apart or run. The length of the stitch is also determined by the length of the stitches on the knitted piece. If they are small stitches you have to set your serger to sew stitiches that are close together, almost satin stitches. If you are knitting on a 3.5mm KM then you should serge each piece indivdualy to finish the edges and then put the 2 pieces toether and sew them on your regular sewing machine with a short and narrow zig zag stitch. SO the bigger and wider the stitch, the wider the stitch and longer on the serger, but a shorter length than the knitting on the sweater. If it is not a fine sweater and you don't really care about the seam as you are giving it to a child that will outgrow it in a few months you cna sew it together on the serger with the wider stitch as you won't mind the added bulk that you get sewing it on the serger. A fine knit- short stitch length and not to wide a width but best to do the 2 step method. Edges first then sewing machine like regular fabric but with the ZZ
> 1st however you should pin your piece to some butcher paper and then sew it with a large basting stitch to the paper and cut the paper away from beyond the edge of the knitting. THis is to stabalize it. Then you can sew it on the serger and tear away the paper when done. You can also use a tear away stabalizer.
> If your machine has a diffrential, use it.
> 
> Putting it together by hand is of course the best way for hand knits You won't have the extra bulk. If using the serger do use good serging thread not the ones in the dollar bins.


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## NoIdleHands (Nov 24, 2012)

to: euvid

I avoid flat knitting, and will knit all patterns in the round. I use the three needle bind off for the shoulders for stability, and pick up the stitches for the sleeves. I understand why some prefer flat knitting; it has its advantages. There are no knitting rules and everyone should knit as they see fit and works for them. 

I appreciate your post concerning your experience serging knits. I have made a number of different clothing projects using machine knits without problems. It could be I was just "lucky," and by following your advice I will make a better product. I will copy and paste your advice as a reference, and refer to it when I sew a knit project. There are a couple already in the queue. Thanks, again!


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## Pleclerrc (Apr 17, 2011)

Tres Gatos said:


> Tips, please, on sewing up completed garments with a serger. 3 or 4 threads, stitch width, differential setting etc? I enjoy sewing hand knits in front of the TV, but can't face mattress stitching a fine machine knit sweater I've just finished for my husband.
> 
> Also, what gives the best results - by hand, sewing machine or serger?


Ouch, I immediately thought of the "cutter" cutting your sweater where you don't want it to do so. Best remove the razor blade (or cutter) before attempting to use your serger on a fine knit sweater. If you practice on a sample item a few times, you may just get it right. Let us know how you make out.


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