# Transfer hand knitting to Machine



## gordon000 (Jul 17, 2011)

I'm not sure if this is a silly question; however, I have spent many hours on the net, both Google and Utube to get some ideas on easiest process to: transfer hand knit stitches from knitting needles to my knitting machine, and vis/versa. There is NOTHING that I can find. Strange! (the stitch direction on needles and machine are different. 

I have some ribbing that I want to do further in st.st. on my machine but not quite sure the process and don't want to possibly mess up what I've done already. If anyone can direct me where I can get some idea.... Thanks


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## Omnivore (Apr 16, 2012)

I use a very-fine, very flexible double-ended plastic knitting needle after transferring the stitches to it. Depending on whether you're right or left-handed, one side is easier to start from - sorry; can't remember which I use. Also need to hang weights as you go along to stop it buckling and lifting. Good luck : )

You might be able to get away with using lots of clothes pegs with loops of other yarn weighted with washers, or passing a wire through the ribbing and weighting it. You'll need to weight it properly before you start knitting on the machine, anyway.


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## gordon000 (Jul 17, 2011)

Thanks for such a prompt reply. I'm going to make a ribbing swatch and try what you suggested. However, another question. Since the stitch sits differently on the machine needle than the hand needles, does it matter which direction the stitch is placed onto the machine needles from the hand needle? Hope you know what I mean.


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## Moira Palmer (Mar 7, 2012)

Hi Jean - before I got my ribber I tried knitting the rib on needles then transfer them onto my KM. However, I found that sometimes, depending on the thickness of the wool and the number of stitches, it could be difficult to stretch the rib enough to fit it onto the KM needles. After a few disapointments I found I got a better result if I knit the KM part first then picked the stitches up at the bottom of the knitting and knit the rib last. 
As for which way round the stitches go - the right hand side of the stitch goes to the right hand side of the KM needle - at least that's what I do! Moira


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## gordon000 (Jul 17, 2011)

(QUOTE) the right hand side of the stitch goes to the right hand side of the KM needle

Do you mean: the stitch on the hand needle which runs front to back; the stitch should be turned to the right and slid onto the km needle?


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## Omnivore (Apr 16, 2012)

As long as it's not twisted. Have fun : )


gordon000 said:


> Thanks for such a prompt reply. I'm going to make a ribbing swatch and try what you suggested. However, another question. Since the stitch sits differently on the machine needle than the hand needles, does it matter which direction the stitch is placed onto the machine needles from the hand needle? Hope you know what I mean.


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## Moira Palmer (Mar 7, 2012)

gordon000 said:


> (QUOTE) the right hand side of the stitch goes to the right hand side of the KM needle
> 
> Do you mean: the stitch on the hand needle which runs front to back; the stitch should be turned to the right and slid onto the km needle?


Possibly - just try it and see which you prefer! Moira


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## Mary Cardiff (Mar 18, 2012)

I found it better to knit each part with out the rib. and then pick up the stitchs and knitt the rib,


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## madknitter07 (Mar 23, 2012)

After you have knitted the ribbing on your machine, do a few rows of waste knitting and release from machine. It is very simple then to pick up the stitches and continue hand knitting. Do the reverse if you are hand knitting and knit a few rows (by hand) of waste knitting and then it is very simple to place on the knitting machine. Have a great day!


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## Osunny (Jan 29, 2011)

gordon000 said:


> I'm not sure if this is a silly question; however, I have spent many hours on the net, both Google and Utube to get some ideas on easiest process to: transfer hand knit stitches from knitting needles to my knitting machine, and vis/versa. There is NOTHING that I can find. Strange! (the stitch direction on needles and machine are different.
> 
> I have some ribbing that I want to do further in st.st. on my machine but not quite sure the process and don't want to possibly mess up what I've done already. If anyone can direct me where I can get some idea.... Thanks


If you have a double eyed needle and it see that your stitches are twisted, you can turn them simply with that needle. You should be able to see which was the loop has to go on the hook...


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## Pattyjoyce (Apr 27, 2012)

I do this all the time. After you get your ribbing knitted simply use the transfer tool that should have come with your machine to transfer the stitches off the needle onto the machine. Since I am right handed I start on the right side. After just a few stitches you will see if you are twisting them or not. Be sure to hang weights as you go or the stitches will pop off.


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## radar (Dec 6, 2011)

It is easier than you think. I don't know how visible one row of a twisted stitch would be. I personally wouldn't care, especially if doing a Stockinette stitch. You could do one row of contrasting yarn onto a bigger needle or big stitch holder, so that when it comes to rehaning the stitches you can use you one eye tool to hook up sttraight as you please the sttitches you want on the machine. Use your weights to keep some tension and so nothing pops off. Once done then just pull out the contrast yarn or can do as you go along. do some swatches to see what works best for you. Lots of good ideas here. Love this site.


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## siewclark (Feb 10, 2011)

Punch Card for Mock 2X1 rib http://www.hobbyknitter.com/files/tips/mockrib.html


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## chickkie (Oct 26, 2011)

It's much easier to knit the stockinette pieces starting with waste yarn and then do the hand knitted ribbing after you take it off the machine. It's difficult to get the ribbing to stretch enough sometimes to get it on the machine after you've done the hand knitting.

If the stitches are too tight, you can sometimes do the first row on the machine manually (pulling the needles into work manually rather than trying to use the carriage).


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## Beetytwird (Jan 19, 2011)

I have done this several times, unfortunately there is no quick way to do it.. At least that I have figured out. Pull the proper number of machine needles forward as far as possible. I start on the right side and move to the left. Use your single transfer tool, and slip one stitch at a time to the machine needles. Be sure to push the yarn back as far as it will go and stay so it will not slid off when you put the next stitch on. You might try to close the latch over the stitch to help it stay put. Then when you finish , hang your weights and go. Keep in mind you will have to stretch the piece to get it to fit the number of stitches. IF it is already in a rib, that should not be a problem. Play with a practice piece before you try to use the one you want to keep. That way if you drop a few, it won't matter, it is practice anyway and you can try again. Most of the time I do the machine knitting first, then do the hand rib after I take it off the machine. Good luck. IF you have any problems pm me and I will try to help.


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## JoyceinNC (Oct 28, 2011)

I do this sort of back and forth stuff all the time. In the case of ribbing, I usually knit the body first, remove the stitches to a long circular hand knitting needle, then work the ribbing or in my case, the decreases at the top of a beanie hat, by hand. The dvd I have says to use a hand knitting needle that fits easily in the machine stitches. I have a Bond, and using key plate #3, I usually use a hand knitting needle size 7. Smaller of course for ribbing. Knitting the ribbing first may cause you to have to stretch the stitches to the point of torture to get them on the machine. I have found through sad experience that some thinner yarns just can't stand up to the stress of being run through a knitting machine.

Probably the best thing to do is knit a small piece of ribbing by hand, then experiment with your machine to see what works best before you work on your "good" project. If you do that, be sure to make notes for next time!


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## radar (Dec 6, 2011)

I keep the needles in right at the usual edge the gate pegs helps to hold but I put about 4 or 6 stitches on and then right away hang a claw weight and it helps with the rest if you go along rehaning and then another claw weight until by the end I have 4 claw weights on. The ribbing will lift as you go if you don't hang the weights.
I have done this method many many times and it is the easiest and quite quick. I usually have 36 stitches to rehang (doing socks) and it's only 5 minutes to hang on the needles. will be longer for sweater of course. Good luck and make sure you post a picture.


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## laurelk. (Jun 4, 2011)

I hand knit ribbing on the "flat" socks I do so then I rib knit circular on them with no seam. I just have the socks on waste yarn and pick up the stitches and rib.
Laurelk in S. CA


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## acey (Mar 16, 2011)

I do a lot of transferring from MK to HK and back. Much to my dismay, when I finished the front of a sweater, I had 1 row of twisted stitches. I researched to find how to take sts off and put them back on, but couldn't find anything. I need a Utube that shows me whether to pick up sts with my needle from the front or the back of the machine stitch, and when rehanging, put the left leg or the right leg on first. Clear as mud??


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## gordon000 (Jul 17, 2011)

Acey, my problem exactly! Thank you very much! Although, I think I finally got my brain wrapped around how to put the stitches onto the KM from HK. Don't know how professional it is, but it worked for me. I've been working with a swatch. I ran a thread the same as you would a "life line" per se' to take the live stitches off the knitting needle. Using the KM "stitch picker upper tool" I hung the left and right end of the swatch (front side facing the back) on their respective needle on the km bed, using the stitch (pearl stitch) on the row below the stitches that the thread was run thru. (This would be the same process that is used when using waste yarn making a hem, if you've done this before). I believe using this process on an actual knitting item, you would need to have an extra row. I did this twice working only st.st. Pull the thread out, then pull the loops that were once the live stitches on your needles. No twisted stitches.

Taking stitches off KM: I ran a thread through the km stitches starting on the left side of the km, then pointed the threaded needle into the front of the first stitch, bring the threaded needle back out and into the front of the next stitch, etc. etc. across. I then ran a hand needle through the picked up stitches as you would after frogging to a life line. This is a bit tricky due to the km knits backwards to hk. BUT, all-in-all I agree that there should be a video on this process somewhere by someone considering the vast array of all the knitting videos there are. Hope this isn't clear as mud too!



acey said:


> I do a lot of transferring from MK to HK and back. Much to my dismay, when I finished the front of a sweater, I had 1 row of twisted stitches. I researched to find how to take sts off and put them back on, but couldn't find anything. I need a Utube that shows me whether to pick up sts with my needle from the front or the back of the machine stitch, and when rehanging, put the left leg or the right leg on first. Clear as mud??


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## JoyceinNC (Oct 28, 2011)

acey said:


> I do a lot of transferring from MK to HK and back. Much to my dismay, when I finished the front of a sweater, I had 1 row of twisted stitches. I researched to find how to take sts off and put them back on, but couldn't find anything. I need a Utube that shows me whether to pick up sts with my needle from the front or the back of the machine stitch, and when rehanging, put the left leg or the right leg on first. Clear as mud??


The problem with watching a video on this is that you may not hand knit the same way as the person in the video. I use the continental method of holding my yarn over my left hand. I have to be careful everytime I watch a video or step through photos of how to do something because the person in the illustrations/video may be knitting another way, which could cause me to twist my stitches.

The person who suggested knitting an extra row to use just like a waste yarn row probably has the best solution for all of us. After doing the transfer a couple of times, I remembered which direction to work in. Removing stitches from the machine to a hand needle is a little trickier than the other way. When hand knitting, I just corrected the twisted stitches as I knit them. Then I discovered that when removing stitches from the machine, using a long circular needle, I start from the right, put the point of the needle through the back of the stitch on the machine, slip the stitch onto the hand needle. For continental style knitters, this places the stitch in the correct direction on the hand needle. Using the long circular needle lets you begin hand knitting from which ever side of the knitting the yarn is attached to without having to transfer the stitches on to another hand needle.

Cheryl Brunette doesn't have anything on YouTube about this? I'm really surprised. Maybe it was on the dvd that came with my machine, I don't remember. Maybe you could find something useful by searching for videos showing putting machine knit stitches on holders. The technique should be about the same.


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## Deb-Babbles (Mar 4, 2011)

gordon000 said:


> Acey, my problem exactly! Thank you very much! Although, I think I finally got my brain wrapped around how to put the stitches onto the KM from HK. Don't know how professional it is, but it worked for me. I've been working with a swatch. I ran a thread the same as you would a "life line" per se' to take the live stitches off the knitting needle. Using the KM "stitch picker upper tool" I hung the left and right end of the swatch (front side facing the back) on their respective needle on the km bed, using the stitch (pearl stitch) on the row below the stitches that the thread was run thru. (This would be the same process that is used when using waste yarn making a hem, if you've done this before). I believe using this process on an actual knitting item, you would need to have an extra row. I did this twice working only st.st. Pull the thread out, then pull the loops that were once the live stitches on your needles. No twisted stitches.
> 
> Taking stitches off KM: I ran a thread through the km stitches starting on the left side of the km, then pointed the threaded needle into the front of the first stitch, bring the threaded needle back out and into the front of the next stitch, etc. etc. across. I then ran a hand needle through the picked up stitches as you would after frogging to a life line. This is a bit tricky due to the km knits backwards to hk. BUT, all-in-all I agree that there should be a video on this process somewhere by someone considering the vast array of all the knitting videos there are. Hope this isn't clear as mud too!
> 
> ...


This is how I do it 99% of the time. The life line through the live stitches also helps keep you from dropping any. I do not remove the life line right away, I make sure that the knitting is working correctly and no twisted stitches. I use a mirror and flashlight to be able to see the back of the knitting (will be the right side when done). This way I do not have to try to lift the knitting to check them.


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