# two color slip stitch



## KarlaHW (Jan 6, 2012)

I have never done a slip stitch. Attached is a picture how the knitted piece is supposed to look and the punch card. I programmed the pattern in my Brother 940. I understand that I need to push the part buttons in. When do I change to the contrast lighter blue color? Do I do this on the first 4 rows, then row 5-8 in darker blue, then 9-12 light blue again?
I don't really understand how slip stitches work.


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## GrammaAnn (Dec 16, 2011)

Since this is in two colors, I am guessing it is all knit in fair isle. Although you can knit in 2 or more color skip stitch. Directions are on page 89 of the manual for the 940. To change colors in slip stitch, you have to take one color out of the yarn feeder and change to the other one. With fairisle you have both in the yarn feeder and it is quicker.  Ann


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## KarlaHW (Jan 6, 2012)

GrammaAnn said:


> Since this is in two colors, I am guessing it is all knit in fair isle. Although you can knit in 2 or more color skip stitch. Directions are on page 89 of the manual for the 940. To change colors in slip stitch, you have to take one color out of the yarn feeder and change to the other one. With fairisle you have both in the yarn feeder and it is quicker.  Ann


The pattern in the book has fairisle at the bottom, then the dots at the top part are tuck stitch. The memo display does not come on, because I did not program it in.
It would be so much easier to do all in fairisle and would look the same.
The pattern says: "4 rows stockinette in color 1, 4 rows slip st in color 2".
So I did 4 rows with tuck buttons pushed in, then 4 rows in second color with tuck bottoms not pushed. and so on.
Here is what it is supposed to look.


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## GrammaAnn (Dec 16, 2011)

It looks great!!!  Ann


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## susieknitter (Jul 14, 2011)

It looks nice as it is, but if you want it to slip, as it says in the pattern, then you put in the two part buttons not the tuck ones. On a Brother machine part means slip/skip.


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## evesch (Apr 3, 2011)

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
The pattern in the book has fairisle at the bottom, then the dots at the top part are tuck stitch. The memo display does not come on, because I did not program it in.
It would be so much easier to do all in fairisle and would look the same.
The pattern says: "4 rows stockinette in color 1, 4 rows slip st in color 2".
So I did 4 rows with tuck buttons pushed in, then 4 rows in second color with tuck bottoms not pushed. and so on.
Here is what it is supposed to look.
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
It looks like it is not tucking. You will not get the same look in fairisle than what the picture is as tuck looks different than fairisle in texture. I can't help with the machine settings as I do not have any of those type machines.


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## susieknitter (Jul 14, 2011)

Karla, I think that you are confused, or I am reading your post wrong.
You say the top part is Tuck stitch but then say the pattern says slip stitch. Slip stitch and tuck stitch are two different stitch patterns.
Looking at the pic of the sweater, the top section definitely looks like slip stitch. I wouldn't think that tuck stitch would look that good there, because it would pull the knitting in and not tie in with the Fair-Isle pattern, slip stitch would.
You need (as I said earlier) to put in the two part buttons for it to do the slip section of patterning.


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## KarlaHW (Jan 6, 2012)

susieknitter said:


> Karla, I think that you are confused, or I am reading your post wrong.
> You say the top part is Tuck stitch but then say the pattern says slip stitch. Slip stitch and tuck stitch are two different stitch patterns.
> Looking at the pic of the sweater, the top section definitely looks like slip stitch. I wouldn't think that tuck stitch would look that good there, because it would pull the knitting in and not tie in with the Fair-Isle pattern, slip stitch would.
> You need (as I said earlier) to put in the two part buttons for it to do the slip section of patterning.


Sorry yes I said "tuck" when I meant "part".
The pattern asks for "slip stitch", which I think is the same that Brother describes as "skip" stitch where you push in the "Part" buttons.
It is very confusing to me. I thought I could leave the part buttons in all through the pattern and just change the color every 4th row, but that makes vertical stripes. It comes out as dots leaving part buttons in for 4 rows (the rows that are marked in the pattern) then change color and knit 4 rows without part button in. This makes the dots, but to me it looks like fairisle.


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## Jeannie D (Apr 1, 2011)

they made this a slip/skip pattern so on the four solid rows you would not have long floats. It was a matter of convenience. You could get the same effect if for the four rows you remove second color and turned off mc button and left it the kc on so the card would advance. once needles selected put in second color push in mc button for four rows. The slip version would also give a little texture. Make a swatch and try it.


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## KateWood (Apr 30, 2011)

This pattern will require the color to be changed at the left side of the N bed every two rows.


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## KarlaHW (Jan 6, 2012)

I did some more swatches with different settings. I want the design to look like in the book, kind of plastic dots in the sky above the desert scene.
With the pattern programmed like it shows on the card I have part buttons pushed in for the first 4 rows, knit with lighter blue, then the next 4 rows still on KC but part buttons out, knit in darker blue and so on. Or if I want the part buttons pushed in all the time and only change colors the 4 empty row in the pattern should be all black. ( I tend to forget to take the part buttons back out)
To knit the same programmed pattern with fair isle looks different, the dots become elongated. So I would have to change the card to change after each second row.

For doing the top part of the sweater the row counter shows twice as many rows in tuck than I actually knit.


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## GrammaAnn (Dec 16, 2011)

Karla, I have really appreciated your photos and explanations- thank you for taking the time to do that! Knitting is involves a lot of experimentation I have found - to get the results I want. I spend time experimenting before I do a project sometimes quick sometimes more involved. I was so interested in the the photos comparing the front and back of the fair isle and the slip stitch. The effect in the front would really be unnoticeable after the garment its actually being worn, but the back is so much neater with the fair isle and it takes so much less time to not be changing yarns. If the slip had more texture and that is your desired effect - then it would be worth the time! I am sure your project will be great whichever one you choose - we look forward to photos!  Ann


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## KarlaHW (Jan 6, 2012)

I will try to do it like in the pattern with slip stitch at the top. So far so good, bottom part is done, hopefully without mistake. Now I will start the slip stitch.
It goes 4 rows stockinette, 4 rows slip stitch. Am I correct to assume I should rewind the row counter always by 4 after the slip stich rows? The light blue slip stitches are sitting between the dark blue and really don't increase the length of the garment.


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## dialknit (Oct 17, 2012)

I have looked at your card for the slip stitch and you will find if you punch it in reverse which will be the majority punched you will get your raised bobbles. all you have to do is punch every hole that was designed for the four rows of knit set carriage to slip and voila! Hope that makes sense.


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## KarlaHW (Jan 6, 2012)

Here it the finished sweater. It does not fit and I will take it apart. The top part, armhole to shoulder, is much too long. The measurements came out just as in the pattern, so I guess the pattern is not very good. I will try to rehang it and redo the top part, if I can line up with the pattern.


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## GrammaAnn (Dec 16, 2011)

I am sorry it did not turn out like you wanted it to! I know it is discouraging to work hard and have to redo something.The knitting looks great. Thanks for taking time to share your photo! Ann


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## susieknitter (Jul 14, 2011)

What a shame that it doesn't fit correctly. It's so annoying when this happens, but I think that it would be fairly easy to shorten the top section to get it right. Best of luck and let us know how you get on.


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## 30Knitter (Apr 9, 2012)

The book you took the pattern from usually shows the rows you should be changing colors. Keep in mind that the needles in "B" position will skip/or slip. With the Brother/KnitKing machine part=slip. Based on the pattern above your machine should have the part buttons pressed in. The 1st 4 rows are knit in the first color (yarn in feeder "A"), change colors and knit the next 4 rows in the second color (yarn in feeder "A" replaced with second color). You will change colors every 4 rows. Your pattern is from Mackknit, pattern is Cactus Sunset, page 30.


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## susieknitter (Jul 14, 2011)

Karla, I have had another look at your top and believe that the reason that it is too long, from armhole to shoulder, is because you haven't done the slip stitch pattern correctly.


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## susieknitter (Jul 14, 2011)

30Knitter said:


> The book you took the pattern from usually shows the rows you should be changing colors. Keep in mind that the needles in "B" position will skip/or slip. With the Brother/KnitKing machine part=slip. Based on the pattern above your machine should have the part buttons pressed in. The 1st 4 rows are knit in the first color (yarn in feeder "A"), change colors and knit the next 4 rows in the second color (yarn in feeder "A" replaced with second color). You will change colors every 4 rows. Your pattern is from Mackknit, pattern is Cactus Sunset, page 30.


30Knitter is this what it states in the pattern? I always thought for 2 color slip that you did your selection row from right-left in main color (to reach your color changer) then selected the 2nd color; pressed in the part buttons; did 2 rows in 2nd color and then (back on the left where your color changer is) changed for 2 rows in main color.
I was led to believe that you always did multi color slip stitch 2 rows at a time in each color, am I wrong?


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## susieknitter (Jul 14, 2011)

Karla, I have just put the card pattern into my electronic and the way that I have knitted it is.....
With the carriage on the right; main yarn in the sinker plate; pattern on lock; KC selected; knit one row to the left for the carriage to select the needles.
Now on the left side of the machine I have selected the 2nd color and pressed in both part buttons and knit 2 rows.
Back on the left I have then selected the main yarn for the next 2 rows. This now bought me to the 4 rows plain knitting and all my needles were in the plain knit position (B on a Brother machine)
I then cancelled the part buttons but left the KC as it is, selected to do the 4 rows plain.
Now the needles are selected for the slip stitch pattern again, so here I pressed the part keys in again and selected the 2nd color to start from the beginning of the stitch pattern repeat.
This reduces the amount of rows that you seem to have, so the length from armhole-shoulder should be correct.
Try it this way and see if you think this is right.
Can you see if the pattern picture has 2 rows of the different color or 4? My way, and the way that I am reading the card, only gives you 2 rows of the different color.


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## KarlaHW (Jan 6, 2012)

It is so nice to have you all help me.
I see two problems with this pattern. 30Knitter is right about the source of the pattern. There is a nice graph with the measurements, the top part, armhole to shoulder, is slightly longer than the bottom, meaning the sleeves start very low.
I use different yarn with different gauge, but I have no trouble using the math to come out to the correct measurements. Maybe the top came out very slightly longer, because the gauge for slip stitch and fair isle is different.
Second I did the slip stich part like 30Knitter suggested, change color every 4th row, part buttons pressed with second color, no part buttons with main color.
There are 4 rows in the bobbles. If I change after 2 rows then the top part of the bobble is main color.
I have started to redo the part above the arm holes, different pattern with a round neck, a pattern that I know will fit.


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## dialknit (Oct 17, 2012)

If you can get hold of a copy of "the technique of slipstitch" by Denise Musk (brilliant book)you will find she explains the principle well. Because you are doing the patern on the electronic you need to use patern reverse. set machine to slip both ways 4 rows each colour. Slip stitch punchcards are more holes punched than not. I have tried to upload how the card should look but the computer has beaten me.


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## susieknitter (Jul 14, 2011)

dialknit said:


> If you can get hold of a copy of "the technique of slipstitch" by Denise Musk (brilliant book)you will find she explains the principle well. Because you are doing the patern on the electronic you need to use patern reverse. set machine to slip both ways 4 rows each colour. Slip stitch punchcards are more holes punched than not. I have tried to upload how the card should look but the computer has beaten me.


I am getting completely confused here. I don't think Karla is using an electronic, it's me that tried it on my electronic. Because the card (that was given for the pattern) states it is a slip stitch pattern, that is the way that I programed it into my machine. I wouldn't have thought that you would have to alter the card in anyway or put the reverse key on because it is already written as the slip stitch pattern. If you needed to have more holes for this particular slip stitch pattern then surely they would have made the card with more holes in the first place.
Looking at the card, on each block of slip stitch patterning there are 2 slip stitches and 2 knit stitches. By putting on the reverse key surely you are gaining nothing, you are still going to have 2 slip stitches and 2 knit stitches but in reverse order. They are already in reverse order in the next block.
I have the Denise Musk book, I have read it, and do agree that it is a brilliant book. I do understand that to save time, and make it easier to do, you can put a slip stitch pattern in that has loads of punched holes in reverse so that you are using less black keys and then use the reverse key to knit. But this is the only reason that you use the reverse key and I wouldn't have thought that you would do this when the punched card is written in the way that this is and there isn't many holes/black keys, when both are of the same amount.
Maybe I am losing the plot here. I will have to read Denise Musk's book again.
Now that I have seen Karla's close up of the pattern I do think that she has to do four rows of the second colour before doing four rows of plain knitting.


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## dialknit (Oct 17, 2012)

I see where you are coming from , I think the original problem was it was not producing the raised bobble effect and also when to change colour. but by re programing for the electronic and setting the carriage to slip for All rows you only have to worry about when to change colour.


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## KarlaHW (Jan 6, 2012)

Yes I use an electronic machine, Brother 940. By filling the 4 blank rows with black, I could keep the part buttons in all the time. One step less to remember.
Right now I knit 4 rows with part buttons pushed in and contrast color. These 4 rows only the needles in D position knit. Then I knit 4 rows with main color, and have to remember not to have the part buttons pushed. Only those 4 rows increase the length of the knitted piece. The 4 rows with contrast color kind of lay on top of the other main color stitches.


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## dialknit (Oct 17, 2012)

:thumbup:


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## 30Knitter (Apr 9, 2012)

susieknitter said:


> 30Knitter is this what it states in the pattern? I always thought for 2 color slip that you did your selection row from right-left in main color (to reach your color changer) then selected the 2nd color; pressed in the part buttons; did 2 rows in 2nd color and then (back on the left where your color changer is) changed for 2 rows in main color.
> I was led to believe that you always did multi color slip stitch 2 rows at a time in each color, am I wrong?


Susie, you don't have to have a color changer when working with just 2 colors. Also color changes can be 2 rows or up to 6 rows in one color and 2 rows in an alternate color. A multicolor slip can be 2 rows or more in different colors. Min. color rows are 2.
Cherl


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## susieknitter (Jul 14, 2011)

30Knitter said:


> Susie, you don't have to have a color changer when working with just 2 colors. Also color changes can be 2 rows or up to 6 rows in one color and 2 rows in an alternate color. A multicolor slip can be 2 rows or more in different colors. Min. color rows are 2.
> Cherl


I appreciate that you don't have to have a color changer, but they do make life easier. And if you have one, then even when using just two colors, they are a blessing.
I think that I was thinking more of DJ regarding patterning and was getting that confused with multi color slip stitch.


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## KarlaHW (Jan 6, 2012)

Finally, it's done.
This was the most advanced piece I ever knitted. I guess in the end is came out ok. I rehung the pieces about where the armhole started and redid the top part to a different style sweater, which I know fits.
This sweater uses 8 different color yarns. I used two 4 color yarn changer masts, but did not attach the yarn changer.
Bottom cactus scene is simple fair isle with different background colors. The top is the two color slip stitch.


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## susieknitter (Jul 14, 2011)

Hey it's lovely Karla, well done. You have every right to be extremely proud! :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:


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## GrammaAnn (Dec 16, 2011)

Great Job! Thanks for posting photos. Loved the ones of your knitting machine! Love that - looks like fun!  Ann


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## 30Knitter (Apr 9, 2012)

Great job!!! Good idea for the color changes. Like your yarn holders.


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## Entity (Sep 13, 2011)

Karla, I like your version better than the original pattern. The boat neckline with the puffy sleeves of the original pattern are so outdated. With just a small design change, your sweater will be in fashion for years to come. You did so well and it's certainly a beautiful sweater on you (^_^).

Now, try that same pattern you've posted in tuck stitch. You will get the bubbles on the knitted side. I have used similar pattern to make wild berry hats in tuck stitch.


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