# Full needle knit



## lovescats (Feb 25, 2012)

Even though I use a fine yarn, my machine (Brother 940) bulks at full needle rib. It will knit but very hard to run the carriage over the needles. Any suggestions?


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## Leonora (Apr 22, 2011)

Try reducing the tension to make the stitches easier to knit over. Also have you got enough weights on it to help pull it down, or maybe too many weights on it?


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## Wrenmuzz (Mar 2, 2012)

I found that I had to pay attention to the placement of the weights along the length of the cast on comb. It is a brother machine that I use too.


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## KateWood (Apr 30, 2011)

What is the gauge and fiber content in the your yarn?
3000 ypp, 2/12, 3/18 or 604yards per 100 grams is typically the heaviest recommended gauge for knitting FNR on the std KMs. Heavier than that gets very difficult to knit especially if its an inelastic fiber like cotton/linen.
Here's a link for yarn gauges you may find helpful;
http://www.yarns-and.com/yarnto.htm


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## susieknitter (Jul 14, 2011)

Are you using the fine knit bar?


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## Zach (Feb 25, 2012)

lovescats said:


> Even though I use a fine yarn, my machine (Brother 940) bulks at full needle rib. It will knit but very hard to run the carriage over the needles. Any suggestions?


You say fine yarn. But what do you mean?
fingering, sport, 
some sport yarns are really to heavy for fnr


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## Elis (Nov 1, 2011)

It's unlikely you'll manage full-needle rib happily with anything thicker than soft twist fingering (3 ply). Ideally lace (1 ply) or baby weight (2 ply) gives the best fabric.


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## big si (Feb 3, 2012)

first you need to get a sample large enough to use to make good decisions from. set up machine as follows: every other needle about 24 needles wide, utility cast on (thread machine knit one row add weights) I usually start at reccomended tension for yarn for the first row then increase by 2 numbers and knit several rows. if the machine is knitting every stitch and not dropping stitches increase tension 1/2 number after several rows do this until you reach the highest number on your tension dial or carrage starts hange or drop stitches. you can then do the same thing reducing tension untill carrage picks up too much drag. then you know what range that can be used with that yarn and needle setting. next test is to move tension too the highest number determined by abolve testing then add one of the skipped then knit one row if that knits continue adding needles untill you are knitting with all needles on your test piece. once you have all needles in work on your test piece then check the tension range with all needles. now you know exactly what that yarn will do if you change colors with same brand the limits may change slightly. Once you have all your dimentions for whatever you are going to make increasing tension will increase the size of article. happy knitting!


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## big si (Feb 3, 2012)

first you need to get a sample large enough to use to make good decisions from. set up machine as follows: every other needle about 24 needles wide, utility cast on (thread machine knit one row add weights) I usually start at reccomended tension for yarn for the first row then increase by 2 numbers and knit several rows. if the machine is knitting every stitch and not dropping stitches increase tension 1/2 number after several rows do this until you reach the highest number on your tension dial or carrage starts hange or drop stitches. you can then do the same thing reducing tension untill carrage picks up too much drag. then you know what range that can be used with that yarn and needle setting. next test is to move tension too the highest number determined by abolve testing then add one of the skipped then knit one row if that knits continue adding needles untill you are knitting with all needles on your test piece. once you have all needles in work on your test piece then check the tension range with all needles. now you know exactly what that yarn will do if you change colors with same brand the limits may change slightly. Once you have all your dimentions for whatever you are going to make increasing tension will increase the size of article. happy knitting!


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## Irish maggie (May 11, 2011)

susieknitter said:


> Are you using the fine knit bar?


susie what do you mean, Fine Knit Bar

thanks maggiex :thumbup:


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## KateWood (Apr 30, 2011)

Hi Maggie, the ribber comes with a long very thin plastic bar that is inserted under the N bed inside the gate pegs. This bar helps the sts come off the Ns well. You should have it with your new ribber...


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## Irish maggie (May 11, 2011)

KateWood said:


> Hi Maggie, the ribber comes with a long very thin plastic bar that is inserted under the N bed inside the gate pegs. This bar helps the sts come off the Ns well. You should have it with your new ribber...


kate i have one but didnt know what it was for?
i have not been doing knitting (have not been very well)


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## susieknitter (Jul 14, 2011)

Sorry to hear that you have been ill Maggie, I hope that you are better now.
Kate has given you the answer that you need. You only really need to use the bar if you are doing double bed work, I always remove it when I resume ordinary knitting.


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## lovescats (Feb 25, 2012)

Thanks for all the help. I have printed out the page and will follow the suggestions. I do not know the "numbers" of the yarn as it is old cone yarn (the labels on the inside are gone) that I am trying to use up into scarves and fingerless gloves. Some of it isn't a very soft yarn so that may be part of the problem. Anyway, thanks.Love this forum


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## susieknitter (Jul 14, 2011)

Now that you have stated that it is old yarn that isn't that soft I think that you have found the answer to your problem. It sounds to me that the yarn is pure wool. Pure wool is harsh until it is washed, if it is old it's a nightmare to knit with. The natural oils have dried out of it, I would try winding it on a wool winder and while you are doing it run it passed a candle so that it picks up the wax. Also put the wax disc onto your machine so that it picks the wax up from that.
I have had the same problems because of this and once decided to hank and wash the wool before I used it. It then ran though the machine great, the only thing was the machine and all around it was covered in fiber. Not a good way to treat a machine! I have also wound the yarn on a wool winder and ran it through my hands after putting hand cream on them. This works but obviously you are putting hand cream through your machine. Perhaps it's best to stick to the wax as this will not do any damage to your machine.
Hope that this helps, let us know how you get on.


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