# Ribber Cast on Problems



## weskroninger (Jan 3, 2014)

I am new to machine knitting and have a brother KH-260 with ribber. I am trying to do the circular cast on but overtime I try to cast on the stitches from the top bed completely drop. I get through the first zig-zag row, hang my weights change the settings on my carriages then go to make my 3 passes and the top row drops every single time. I have tried it over and over following exactly the steps in the manual but am getting no where. Please help.


----------



## susieknitter (Jul 14, 2011)

It's possible that the main bed machine needs a new sponge/needle retainer bar. Look in the manual (where it tells you how to replace/change a needle) and you will find out where the sponge bar is in the machine. Take it out of the machine and see how deep the sponge is.


----------



## weskroninger (Jan 3, 2014)

I have looked at the sponge bar and it is like new. We just bought the machine around 3 months ago and am really just starting to work with it.


----------



## KateWood (Apr 30, 2011)

Here's a youtube video series to watch;
http://diananatters.blogspot.com/2009/09/ribber-lessons-so-far.html


----------



## weskroninger (Jan 3, 2014)

I have watched that video 15 times and have even taken a private class. I feel like I am doing everything right but to no avail. I feel like it has something to do with how I am putting the bar and weights on as it drops when I do an ewrap cast on as well. When I ewrap I get one good pass to the left then going from left to right it drops the whole project off of top bed but stays attached to bottom bed. It has worke in the past and worked for the instructor during the class but I just feel like there has to be one little dumb thing I am overlooking. Everything it says to do in the instructions I am doing an everything in the YouTube video as well. Frustrating.


----------



## susieknitter (Jul 14, 2011)

Try using a smaller stitch setting on your carriage and more important a tighter setting on the tension mast. The wire from the mast should arch over like a rainbow.


----------



## KarlaHW (Jan 6, 2012)

Yes make sure the yarn is tight, pull it up with one hand while you move the carriage. If the yarn is loose in the connecting arm it's like knitting without yarn.


----------



## weskroninger (Jan 3, 2014)

OK I will give that a try.


----------



## weskroninger (Jan 3, 2014)

I made a video. Do you see anything I'm doing wrong? https://www.dropbox.com/s/l75wl7g40lzkvhb/IMG_1291.MOV?dl=0

I know my outside needles need to be top bed and I had the outside right as a bottom bed but that shouldn't effect the top row left (and I don't normally mess that up and it still happens).


----------



## jaysclark (Jan 26, 2013)

weskroninger said:


> I made a video. Do you see anything I'm doing wrong? https://www.dropbox.com/s/l75wl7g40lzkvhb/IMG_1291.MOV?dl=0
> 
> I know my outside needles need to be top bed and I had the outside right as a bottom bed but that shouldn't effect the top row left (and I don't normally mess that up and it still happens).


Two observations, your tension mast doesn't look as though it is threaded up properly and the tension looks high for the circular rows, I would have it lower


----------



## weskroninger (Jan 3, 2014)

I am unsure how it is supposed to go then. Do you have a photo of one threaded properly?


----------



## KarlaHW (Jan 6, 2012)

Zigzag row looks very loose. Tension for zigzag row * on ribber, 0 on main. Tension then should be 1 on main carriage, 0 on ribber for the circular rows.
Did you hang weights on the comb?


----------



## weskroninger (Jan 3, 2014)

Zigzag rows were done with upper carriage at 0 and ribber last the star. Their are 2 large weights on the comb.


----------



## KarlaHW (Jan 6, 2012)

Do you have the manual?
http://machineknittingetc.com/brother-kh260-user-guide-guide.html


----------



## weskroninger (Jan 3, 2014)

Yes I do. That is the way my yarn is threaded.


----------



## KarlaHW (Jan 6, 2012)

Take the connecting arm off and put it back on.
Stitches will drop with the yarn is not in the right position or missing. Hold the yarn just love the connecting arm with one hand and go real slow with the carriage.
Are you a beginner? Do you know to knit on main bed only? That would be the first step to learn. It's easier to recognize mistakes with a little basic experience.


----------



## Azzara (Jan 23, 2014)

KarlaHW said:


> Take the connecting arm off and put it back on.
> Stitches will drop with the yarn is not in the right position or missing. .......


Try Karla's suggestion, remount the connecting arm then try again. 
Use tighter tension for the zig zag row and put more weight on the comb before trying the circular knitting.
Posting the video was a great idea.


----------



## KateWood (Apr 30, 2011)

make sure your yarn, going into the carriage, is under your combs wire. Also be sure the prongs of the comb are in the upside down v formed by the yarn from the MBs needles. I can't see your c/o or its wire in your video that well...


----------



## weskroninger (Jan 3, 2014)

So the last strand of yarn on the left side should go under the comb? In all the pictures in the manual it comes off the needle and straight to the left. 

The connection arm is the piece that the yarn feeds into correct. There is a different one for single bed than there is for ribber right. The ribber locks into this piece?


----------



## Azzara (Jan 23, 2014)

Did you change the main bed mounting clamps to the S shaped ones when you installed the ribber? The machine looks pretty flat in the video, might be the camera angle or it could just be my eyes...lol.


----------



## weskroninger (Jan 3, 2014)

Yes It is at a the ribber angle.


----------



## MostlyKnittingMachines (Jan 30, 2014)

Check the diagrams for the cast on in the ribber manual for the correct positioning of the ribber comb. It is easy to get the comb in the wrong position, which will result in the problem that you are having.

The points of the comb should line up with the needles, not the sinker pins.

Hope this helps.


----------



## weskroninger (Jan 3, 2014)

I'm not sure how you could get the points of the comb lined up with the sinker pins as that is where the yarn falls. 

I did notice that when my machine as at 3 pitch these pins are slightly off. Could that make the problem occur?


----------



## weskroninger (Jan 3, 2014)

This is the way it looks in the book. Is this right? Someone mentioned the end of the yarn going through the comb but the book says it doesn't. Can someone clarify this?


----------



## Tallie9 (Jul 24, 2012)

The first and last of your selected needles should be on the main bed....(your last needle is on the ribber bed in the video)..
Put your dial tensions as far past '0' as they will go on both carriages for the first (zig-zag)row......Knit to the left.....Hang your combs and weights(1 at each end and 1 in the middle)....

Bring the dial tensions up to '1' on both carriages.....Do not depress the 'Part' button on the main carriage....Knit to the right .....
Before knitting to the left....push in left 'Part' button on the main carriage.....and continue with circular knitting tensions and settings..


----------



## KarlaHW (Jan 6, 2012)

Yes picture in the book is correct, your own picture is hard to see. You should have one pin of cast on comb between each stitch, not two between and then none between the next ones like the second picture in the book says. It's not important to be totally centered in the middle.
And even the books say to have both outside needles on main bed, it works with one on ribber bed too. But of course for the beginning do like the book says.
You will master it.


----------



## weskroninger (Jan 3, 2014)

I do know the outside needles need to be on the top bed. I made mention of that on the post with the video. I made a mistake on that try. This problem happens regardless.


----------



## Azzara (Jan 23, 2014)

When you went for lessons did you knit on your machine or the teachers?


----------



## weskroninger (Jan 3, 2014)

We knitted on this machine. That is what is killing me. She knitted on it and now I can't. It's killing me.


----------



## weskroninger (Jan 3, 2014)

But she did drop the project off once the same that I am doing over and over again.


----------



## Azzara (Jan 23, 2014)

If you lower the ribber and put the single bed sinker plate back on the carriage, does the machine knit properly in both directions?


----------



## GrammaAnn (Dec 16, 2011)

Have you adjusted the ribber to the main bed since you attached the two together? http://www.ebay.co.uk/gds/KNITTING-MACHINES-PART-2-ADJUSTING-A-BROTHER-RIBBER-/10000000006613323/g.html Here is one - there are others available that are excellent. Plus, I just watched the video again and your tension mast is not popped out right. The part that you have straight down - just before it comes to the wire should be straight forward towards you - not straight down. So your yarn does not have the right tension.  Ann


----------



## alan55 (Aug 18, 2013)

It seems to me from the video that you're missing the second step.

1. The first zig zag row is ok. Usually knitted L to R
2. Carriages need to be set so that top bed knits from R to L and the ribber knits L to R then knit that row
3. Next row the ribber knits
4. Next row the main bed knits.


----------



## Azzara (Jan 23, 2014)

alan55 said:


> It seems to me from the video that you're missing the second step.
> 1. The first zig zag row is ok. Usually knitted L to R
> 2. Carriages need to be set so that top bed knits from R to L and the ribber knits L to R then knit that row
> 3. Next row the ribber knits
> 4. Next row the main bed knits.


She is knitting on a Brother KH260 with KR260 and as shown in the Brother manual, the zig zag row is done from right to left.
Diana Sullivan shows the Brother cast on done on her Brother 260


----------



## alan55 (Aug 18, 2013)

Azzara said:


> She is knitting on a Brother KH260 with KR260 and as shown in the Brother manual, the zig zag row is done from right to left.


The KH260 isn't much different to my singer; only minor differences so the steps would be the same.

1 Zig Zag
2 Main Bed Knits only
3 Ribber knits only
4 Main Bed knits only

My Singers have both ways for zig zag row:

L to R for wrong side facing you
R to L for right side facing you

Otherwise the steps are the same and you swap left and right setting over.


----------



## susanjoy (Aug 13, 2013)

Make sure the yarn at the carriage end of the zig-zag row is under the wire in the cast on comb as this helps the first stitch to knit.
Your carriages are set to 2 in your video; this is much too loose for casting on.
However this does not explain why all your stitches are dropping off the main bed needles.
Are you sure the connecting arm is completely level and seated on the little raised dots on the main carriage, before you tighten the thumb screws?


----------



## Alna (Aug 26, 2012)

when you put the yarn into the mast tension disk make sure the yarn goes under the very small clip and down between the disks. When you are going left to right with the carriage the yarn id to loose. It is coming off the main bed needles as there is no tension holding it, but is holding to the ribber needles because of the weight of the bar and weights.


----------



## cheridachat (Dec 25, 2011)

Where are you located? Perhaps there is a member of the group close enough to actually help you...


----------



## Azzara (Jan 23, 2014)

cheridachat said:


> Where are you located? Perhaps there is a member of the group close enough to actually help you...


A good idea or perhaps the teacher you took lessons from? It would be interesting to know why the work dropped off once when your teacher was knitting and what she did to correct it.


----------



## maggieandrews (Jan 21, 2013)

After the zig zag row, do you have MB set to slip in one direction and the RB set to slip in the other direction ?.
So you knit one row on each bed separately ?
maggie Andrews Harlow Essex England


----------



## KarlaHW (Jan 6, 2012)

I would suggest for the first circular row to go on the ribber and the second on the main bed, just to see if that works. Or do like Alan suggests start on the left side. You would set main carriage right part and ribber left part button, just opposite you do now.


----------



## Judyannm (Oct 11, 2012)

Double check that your sinker plate is on correctly and take carriage off machine and put back on. May not be seated correctly. I had this problem once. Also that the rubber has been pulled up to highest point evenly. Carriage on correct setting? N?


----------



## Smudge (Apr 19, 2012)

I have looked at your video, the gap between your ribber and main bed looks quite big, have you checked to see that the ribber is properly adjusted? I am pretty sure there is a YouTube video on this. I do hope you are able to get it sorted so that you can actually begin to enjoy your knitting. We all know how frustrating this is but stick with it, once you can get past the first step you will whizz along I am sure.


----------



## maggieandrews (Jan 21, 2013)

Here is instructions to adjust the ribber.

Hope it uploads OK.


----------



## weskroninger (Jan 3, 2014)

Yes the machine knits normally on single bed.


----------



## weskroninger (Jan 3, 2014)

I am assuming you mean the front yarn guide. There is a little notch on the back that prevents it from going any further straight.


----------



## Cheryl H (Jul 20, 2013)

I agree with Smudge, the gap between the beds seems way to big. In the quick glimpse in your video, the tension mast is not threaded correctly. I bet as you are knitting from the left to the right, you yarn is way to slack and it misses the first needle on the main bed, then as you keep knitting across it's as if there is no yarn in the feeder.


----------



## weskroninger (Jan 3, 2014)

Can you elaborate on how to get the mast threaded different? I will add a photo.


----------



## GrammaAnn (Dec 16, 2011)

weskroninger said:


> Can you elaborate on how to get the mast threaded different? I will add a photo.


You need to pop out the part at the top of the mast that you thread into just before the wire. It is pointed down and it needs to be pointed straight out to you.


----------



## weskroninger (Jan 3, 2014)

There is a piece of metal that prevents it from going out any further.


----------



## weskroninger (Jan 3, 2014)

I am not sure how to lessen the gap between the beds. I did adjust t based on the putting the two combs under the top bed needles which adjusts the height of the bed. 

This is how we had the ribber on during our class and our instructor didn't mention it being on wrong.


----------



## weskroninger (Jan 3, 2014)

Ann I see your photo. That is odd. Let me see if there is something I am missing.


----------



## GrammaAnn (Dec 16, 2011)

It is hard to see in your photo, but it does look like your piece is popped out. In your video it did not look like it was. Have you looked at the links given above for adjusting your beds?


----------



## weskroninger (Jan 3, 2014)

I looked and it looked like the top of the masthead was twisted out of the box. I bent it back to what I think is the correct position. Does this look better?


----------



## weskroninger (Jan 3, 2014)

What piece are you referring to when you say "piece is popped out"?


----------



## GrammaAnn (Dec 16, 2011)

That looks perfect. I am suspecting you need to adjust your beds together. There were some good links suggested to do that.


----------



## weskroninger (Jan 3, 2014)

Ok I got the mast situated correctly and the ribber was a little off to the left and I fixed that. I am able to cast on every time not (which is an amazing achievement and I think you all a ton for your help). problem is 3 or 4 "normal" rows in the left needle drops and the whole project fall off. 

Do you have insight on this?


----------



## Cheryl H (Jul 20, 2013)

I've attached two pictures on how my 270 & ribber are set for spacing. Using the needle pusher as a gauge is how I was taught 20+ years ago, and it still works for me. The needle pusher should be able to hang between the two beds without falling through. If it does, you need to adjust the height and raise your ribber a little more.


----------



## weskroninger (Jan 3, 2014)

OK mine fell through. Des that mean the bed needs to go up a touch? There isn't a way to adjust "inward" right? only up and down.


----------



## GrammaAnn (Dec 16, 2011)

Adjusting it up will close that gap a bit.


----------



## weskroninger (Jan 3, 2014)

Ok I have everything going pretty smooth and the beds are set so that the but still dropping that needle gauge doesn't fall through but still that far left needle is not knitting right. I have moved around the bed so it is not a damaged needle. I'm at a loss.


----------



## GrammaAnn (Dec 16, 2011)

Have you tried hanging a small claw weight along the edges? I do that as a regular habit once I have my knitting going when I have a ribber comb attached. It needs a bit of added wight there. Move it up as you knit.


----------



## weskroninger (Jan 3, 2014)

I'll give it a try.


----------



## weskroninger (Jan 3, 2014)

ok I figured out the issue. Maybe someone can help me with a solution.

When the carriage is coming from left to right the head of the needle is allowing the thread to catch on the inside of the guide on the carriage with doesn't allow the thread to get into the needle to be pulled back so it misses. 

I am attaching a photo


----------



## GrammaAnn (Dec 16, 2011)

Hmmm...I threaded mine up and as long as I had it weighted ok and did not go too far past the end of the knitting, the stitches were knitting off correctly and I knit at an even pace it did not do it. Maybe someone will have an idea for you! Do you have the correct tension on dial for your yarn and the mast tension set tight enough to not let the yarn gap?


----------



## KarlaHW (Jan 6, 2012)

weskroninger said:


> ok I figured out the issue. Maybe someone can help me with a solution.
> 
> When the carriage is coming from left to right the head of the needle is allowing the thread to catch on the inside of the guide on the carriage with doesn't allow the thread to get into the needle to be pulled back so it misses.
> 
> I am attaching a photo


The yarn looks too loose. Your tension mast on earlier pictures looks good, but in this the yarn has too much slack. Move the carriage with the right hand, pull the yarn up with the left hand, very slowly and look what happens.
If the needle does not catch the yarn it could be a bent needle or the position of the needle. If sponge bar is too soft or used up the needles are higher.
Try turning the sides around, start on left with zigzag, then for circular right part on main, left part on ribber. See what happens.
Or leave the circular rows out and do 1x1 rib right away.


----------



## weskroninger (Jan 3, 2014)

Ok I Ann's advice and added more weight. Also pulling up on the feeding end of the yarn helps but the tension of the mast dial is all the way tight so not sure how add more. 

I knitted 20 or so rows so I am looking good. I did notice now that going from right to left is chunky like the carriage wants to jam. Any thoughts on that. I'm wondering if the ribber is too high now.


----------



## GrammaAnn (Dec 16, 2011)

You should be able to double up your 2 long skinny metal claws that have a hole for weight and pull out a few end needles. If you can lay them in between the needles and the gate posts you are not too high. See photo.


----------



## weskroninger (Jan 3, 2014)

Yes this is how I normally adjust it. Someone else mentioned that the needle gauge tool should not fall through however when I do the claw technique the gauge falls through quite easily.


----------



## GrammaAnn (Dec 16, 2011)

Mine is fine with both tests. What size yarn are you using? It's not too big even for the bulky machine at your tension?


----------



## weskroninger (Jan 3, 2014)

No it is not too bulky. 

I don't see how both of those tests could work. I can only get one or the other.


----------



## weskroninger (Jan 3, 2014)

Can you do me a favor. Can you take a photo from the side where your ribber meets the table and is clamped?


----------



## GrammaAnn (Dec 16, 2011)

Here are two different shots. One shows the ribber clamp on the left and the regular clamp holding the ribber piece on the right. One from the side. That help any?


----------



## weskroninger (Jan 3, 2014)

Sorry can I ask one more favor? The top image can you take one just like it but lower so I can see the angel of that support foot that comes off the ribber?


----------



## weskroninger (Jan 3, 2014)

Oh and in working position if you can.


----------



## GrammaAnn (Dec 16, 2011)

Does this help?


----------



## weskroninger (Jan 3, 2014)

Thank you.


----------



## dgf12 (Mar 4, 2015)

Do you have your machine at half pitch and an extra needle up from the ribber to take the extra stitch? Your first row does not look right.
After you knit the first row, put the racking handle back and transfer off the leftmost stitch from the ribber to the second stitch from the left on the main bed. move your tension up to 3 on the main bed and ribber, have your left part button on the machine and the right part button on the ribber pushed in and knit across. move you tension dials up one whole number on the main and ribber beds and knit back across. Move your tension dials up one whole number on both beds and knit across. Cancel your part buttons ans knit.

Don


----------



## weskroninger (Jan 3, 2014)

Don that's way more steps than the book suggests. Not sure what type of knitting that is but it doesn't mention doing anything to the racking handle or transferring stitches.


----------



## weskroninger (Jan 3, 2014)

Doing pretty well now. Did two swatches and just realize that that left side needs a LOT of weight. 

Also noticed that the pieces that go into the main bed that hold the ribber on were bent downward making the spacing between the beds too much. I fixed that and now the comb spacing and the needle gauge both work to adjust the bed so that is good 

Realizing that this machine was not ready to go out of the box. Maybe it was ran over before I bought it 

Thanks everyone for your help. I am sure you'll be hearing a lot more from me.

Wes


----------



## dgf12 (Mar 4, 2015)

That is what I do for 2 x 2 rib.

Don


----------



## GrammaAnn (Dec 16, 2011)

Wes, so glad it is working now! Most of these machines have been around a while and who knows what kind of treatment they have had! Yes, Don was referring to a different kind of ribbing than you were trying to do. Look forward to seeing your work! :thumbup: Ann


----------



## eqnancy613 (Jan 22, 2015)

Look on you tube for broken toe caston - it may help
Nancy


----------



## Smudge (Apr 19, 2012)

Yeah! You got there! Well done and congratulations on your persistence. Thanks to GrammaAnn and others who were able to expand on what I noticed. I have learned so much from all of you.


----------



## 30Knitter (Apr 9, 2012)

Double check the ribber coupler. We had a ribber class recently and some of the students has dropping stitches. It was found that they didn't have the ribber coupler seated properly. Also check that the knob under the carriage is II not I. Left is loose, right is tight. You may want to start with a tighter cast on 0/0 = tension on both beds or 0/*. Also lever to right, creating a tight cast on. Also make sure your cast on comb was brought up through the main bed stitches not the ribber stitches, then hang your weights.


----------



## weskroninger (Jan 3, 2014)

What us the ribber coupler?


----------



## 30Knitter (Apr 9, 2012)

Connects ribber to main bed.


----------



## weskroninger (Jan 3, 2014)

Yeah one of the things I ran into was that the two tabs that go into the main bed were bent downward causing their to be too great of a space between the beds.


----------

