# # 61 CLOSED WORKSHOP- MITER SQUARE TODDLER JACKET WITH TAMARQUE



## Designer1234

*YOU ARE NOW IN THE MITER SQUARE TODDLER JACKET WORKSHOP; Jan. l9/2015*

===========================

IMPORTANT: INFORMATION:

*Please post "I'm In "as soon as you come into this thread to join this workshop- once I have counted you into the student count, I will delete your post*.

PLEASE ALWAYS start reading from the beginning of this workshop, even if you join in late.

This is important as sometimes corrections are made or there are additions to the original information. If you are starting the class, even after the starting date...
make sure you read the workshop from page 1.

If you are reading this you are now in the workshop. We ask that even if you don't take part in the discussion that you sign in so that we might get an idea of how many are actually working on the project.

We also ask that before adding any information to the workshop you pm Tamarque. This is one of the few requests we make in our workshops. In some cases there are different ways to doing different techniques or projects. This class is the method used by the teacher and if she wishes to add a different suggestion she will let you know when you pm. her.

We appreciate it if you follow this request.

Over the time of the open workshop I will be available to help trim the messages and will remove any original questions that she has answered quoting the question and answer in one post.

*All our closed workshops are kept permanently on the above link for future use by KP members*.

Note the teacher will use *quote reply* to answer all your questions. I will then delete the original post with the questions. this makes it easier for people who want to learn from the workshop to see the question and answer together.

We hope you enjoy this workshop.

I am delighted to introduce one of our most talented designers and I hope you all have a great time. TAMARQUE


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## tamarque

*Hello Everyone and Welcome to the Toddler Miter Square Sweater Workshop.*

_I assume everyone has a copy of the pattern. If not please go to Ravelry.com and purchase your copy. The discount is still available._ Here is the link:

*http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/toddler-miter-square-sweater
The discount expired Jan 26, 2015, thanks all*

Also, has everyone signed in so we can have a count of who is here? Just post "i'm In." That is all we need.

Let me tell you a bit about myself. Like many others, I learned to knit and crochet when a young child. The funny thing is that I cannot recall who taught me to knit--someone must have, though. I do remember being a human swift for my mother when she was knitting and she did answer questions for me. I guess like many of us, working with my hands was satisfying. However, once I had children and needed to work full time my hooks and needles were set aside until work slowed down with the economy.many years later. Suddenly there was time and energy for craft work again. Picked up my hooks, then needles and the rest is history. I love working with color and find children's projects very satisfying. They are a perfect platform to play with color and shape and they go so quickly. This sweater came about when my grand daughter was about to turn 2. I had wanted to do something with modules and began to play with miter squares. My design process often happens when playing with the needles and yarn and seeing where it takes me. That time my doodling on the needles took me to this design which was created on the needles as I worked. Have to admit there was a bit of visiting the frog pond as ithe pattern got worked out. It was a hit with the mother and everyone who saw it. Here on KP several people asked that I teach it, our Designer1234 being one of them. This is my first KP workshop and I am excited to be here with you doing it. So here we are and ready to go.

I hope everyone has taken some time to read thru the pattern and has a sense of the process that we will follow. We will start with the Miter Square samples and setting our gauge. This is the most critical here.

Can I get a sense of how many have done any modular knitting or miter squares in particular?

I provided a chart of sizes with the number of stitches and needle size for each size. The size 3 will work for a 2 yr old, being a bit on the large size but sleeves can be folded up, or knit shorter. I find children's sizes can be fairly flexible and making something a little on the big size will ensure longer use of the item. So to begin, please chose the size and recommended needles.

We will be using sock yarn in double strands. If you are using DK wt it should provide the same gauge.

So we can begin by CO the number of stitches in the chart by size , needle size and number of stitches. This is on Page 3 of the pattern.

Make sure you CO with double strand of your yarn. Now do the CO. I used the long tail CO but you can use the Cable CO too.


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## sisu

tamarque said:


> Can I get a sense of how many have done any modular knitting or miter squares in particular?


I have made some miter squares a long time ago just for the fun of seeing how they work, but never really made anything using them.


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## tamarque

Normaedern I have never done modular before.[/quote said:


> You can begin to CO and try to follow the sampler but I am going to wait a bit till others join in today before going forward so we don't have to repeat ourselves.


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## eshlemania

I've never done modular before, unless entrelac is considered modular. I know I am interested in learning the mitered squares. Something that I have on my list to learn this year.  So I will be doing the practice stuff you have for us. Not sure when I will get to the sweater though.


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## dgid

dgid said:


> !


Have never done modular, or anything like this before. I'm excited to give it a go!


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## Bubba24

dgid said:


> Have never done modular, or anything like this before. I'm excited to give it a go!


I posted I am in. I have never done anything like this either. A little no a lot scared but will not let the unknown win.


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## Designer1234

Good morning everyone! it is 7am Pacific Time so I am 3 hours behind EST. I will come in each day and check the numbers and am going to be in off and on to assist the teacher in any way I can.

 Remember, Tamarque will answer your questions by *'quote reply*' which will show your question with her answer. I will go through the questions each day and remove the original question.

This makes it much easier to see which questions are answered . This workshop will be held permanently in the workshop section for the use of all the members from now and in the future. It will be locked and the members are able to read, copy and use the workshops . We have 61 
workshops in the archives.

I welcome you all to the workshop and Away you go!!


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## tamarque

Is everyone using sock yarn, or did some of you chose a DK wt?


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## Designer1234

*REQUIREMENTS for this toddler jacket*.

_ This sweater jacket is a very sharp, geometric looking project designed for size 2-5.

It involves working with miter squares, and then picking up stitches to switch to SS or garter sitch as preferred.
The neck is a mandarin collar_.

Toddler jacket is in a soft merino wool sock yarn.

Skirt is a series of individual miter square modules, all 
24 of them different.

Buttons used are leather or any kid friendly button.

The picture does not do justice to the rich jewel-like colors of the variegated yarn.

This project will use several skills where you can learn about shaping, color use, alternate stitchings. Many ways to 
work your creative genius.

BTW, Miter squares are a great way to insert color into your work. They also can use up many of those
little balls of leftovers. And best of all they are just plain fun to do.

I look forward to teaching the first workshop of 2015.

Tamarque (Tanya)

====


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## Bubba24

tamarque said:


> Is everyone using sock yarn, or did some of you chose a DK wt?


I am using DK wt.
But I have a question. I am doing the size 5 or 6 which says to use a size 7 needle. Do I do the sample square with a size 6 needle as stated or use a size 7 needle that I will be using for the sweater?
Thanks,
Fran


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## bbyc172

but have never done anything like this before


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## eshlemania

I am going to mess around with some leftover sock yarn stuff to get started on the mitered square practices. How I like that will depend on how I do the sweater.


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## tamarque

Does anyone have any questions about starting? Why don't we start with that. 

Has everyone cast on for their sample miter square? 

I would like to share this video with you for a visual of what we are doing. The pattern uses the slip 2, k1, psso technique for the center line on the miter square. I like the raised effect of this decrease. You can use any double dec method that you are comfortable with. I don't like to do the K3tog as it can be difficult and the effect is not any more pleasing.

In the video you can begin at 4:57 for the decrease demos.


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## sisu

I am using dk, but have not had a chance to cast on yet.

I don't see a link to the video.


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## dgid

sisu said:


> I am using dk, but have not had a chance to cast on yet.
> 
> I don't see a link to the video.


Nor do I.


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## Normaedern

I can't see my post saying I am in so here is the second try!

I haven't done modular knitting before.you have been counted in and your original post removed.


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## Bubba24

tamarque said:


> Does anyone have any questions about starting? Why don't we start with that.
> 
> Has everyone cast on for their sample miter square?
> 
> I would like to share this video with you for a visual of what we are doing. The pattern uses the slip 2, k1, psso technique for the center line on the miter square. I like the raised effect of this decrease. You can use any double dec method that you are comfortable with. I don't like to do the K3tog as it can be difficult and the effect is not any more pleasing.
> 
> In the video you can begin at 4:57 for the decrease demos.


I did the cast on of 25 and also 27.
1st row no problem.
2nd row, that is where I have a problem. If I slip 1 at the beginning of the row I don't have the right number of stitches to complete the row. Using 25 stitches after the decrease I only have 10 stitches not 11. Am I doing something wrong? If I don't do the slip 1p at the beginning of the row I have enough stitches.
Fran


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## TLL

I have done some mitered dishcloths and hand towels. They were fun to do. 

Great start to your workshop!!! :thumbup:


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## sisu

When you say (sl 2P,K1,psso) do I pass both stitches over?


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## tamarque

*Oh my. I see the Youtube link is missing from my post. So sorry. Here it is:






IMPORTANT: The beginning steps for setting up and decreasing in this video are the ones used in this pattern. She does not slip st the first st of each row which our pattern calls for*


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## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> I did the cast on of 25 and also 27.
> 1st row no problem.
> 2nd row, that is where I have a problem. If I slip 1 at the beginning of the row I don't have the right number of stitches to complete the row. Using 25 stitches after the decrease I only have 10 stitches not 11. Am I doing something wrong? If I don't do the slip 1p at the beginning of the row I have enough stitches.
> Fran


Bubba- The slip stitch is counted as a stitch. If you do that the stitch count should work our correctly.

On a 25 st miter the first row will look like

Sl 1
K10
double decrease
K11

Total 25 stitches reduced to 23

Does that help?


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## tamarque

sisu said:


> When you say (sl 2P,K1,psso) do I pass both stitches over?


Yes Caryn--you pass both slipped stitches over the knit stitch. This provides a nice rib detail on the center of the miter square.


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## Bubba24

tamarque said:


> Bubba- The slip stitch is counted as a stitch. If you do that the stitch count should work our correctly.
> 
> On a 25 st miter the first row will look like
> 
> Sl 1
> K10
> double decrease
> K11
> 
> Total 25 stitches reduced to 23
> 
> Does that help?


Yes, thank you.


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## sisu

I finished my swatch too. It is 4 by 4. Is this the correct gauge for a size 3 or 4? I don't see this information either.


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## tamarque

Sharonll said:


> Have done my swatch but can't find anywhere what the gauge is meant to be


The gauge that I worked with was 5.5st and 11.5 rows/inch

With the miter square itself we are swatting to check the size of the miter square horizontally. What is the width of your miter square and what size sweater do you want to make?


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## tamarque

sisu said:


> I finished my swatch too. It is 4 by 4. Is this the correct gauge for a size 3 or 4? I don't see this information either.


is the dimension the same in the other direction?

I am going to update the pattern tomorrow. There seems to be a chart missing for which I apologize.

Size Chest
3 --- 24" 
4 --- 26
5 --- 28
6 --- 30

If you look at the picture of the sweater you can see the MS are laid out point to point. Our measurement of the MS has to be able to make the finished dimension +/_ 3/4".

This is the stage of the pattern where we have the most math and trial to do.

We need to figure the number of miter squares laid out to achieve the widths listed above. On p. 3-4 (don't know how the pattern printed for you) there is a chart that lists the number of columns of MS to get the above dimensions. This is is the trickiest part of the pattern I think.

So you have a 4" width MS and want to make a size 3 or 4 sweater. Size 3 wants a 24" width; size 4 wants a 26" width.

For size 3 with a 4" MS you need to make 6 columns or segments. The math is 4"MS x 6 MS = 24".

For size 4 and 4" MS the dimension does not work evenly as we cannot make a 1/2 column. In this case you can do a MS with 23 stitches and see if your dimension is a bit smaller. If you do get 3.75" with a 23 st MS, 7 of them lined up point to point will equal just about 26" for size 4. The math is 3.75" x 7 MS = 26.25".

So you need to decide if you which size to make. If the child is fast growing and a bit large, you might consider doing the larger size. You could also do the 26" width on the bottom and decrease for the narrower size above the MS section which would be easy to do.

I know this is a bit confusing but hope these notes helped. If not, then ask more.


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## Bubba24

I made my square. I used size 7 needle and cast on 27. My square measures 3.5x 3.5. Do you think I should do another one using 29 cast one. I want to make a size 5 or 6 sweater.
Fran


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## sisu

Thank you Tanya. This makes sense now- I understand the math you did. I am not making this for any specific child , so I think I will just go with the smallest size. But I just might try a miter square with 23 stitches just to see how it turns out.


I think that is a good idea. It will give you a better sense of how this modules are working and how to change the sizing.


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## tamarque

An updated pattern has been sent to everyone with pagination so we can communicate easier. Also Gauge and Chest dimension have been added to chart on P.3-4.


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## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> I made my square. I used size 7 needle and cast on 27. My square measures 3.5x 3.5. Do you think I should do another one using 29 cast one. I want to make a size 5 or 6 sweater.
> Fran


This should work fine for a size 5 with a 28" chest. You will need 8 MS across . Math is 3.5" MS x 8 =28." That works out well.

If you want a size 6 with a 30" chest then try a 29 st sample. We want the number of MS when laid out point-to-point to equal the chest +/- 3/4."


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## WandaT

I have already announced that I am in, just wanted to answer the question about any previous miter experience. I have never done anything like this before.

Okay. It is good to know the level of experience that people have. Have you started the sample yet? Do you have any questions yet?


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## Bubba24

tamarque said:


> This should work fine for a size 5 with a 28" chest. You will need 8 MS across . Math is 3.5" MS x 8 =28." That works out well.
> 
> If you want a size 6 with a 30" chest then try a 29 st sample. We want the number of MS when laid out point-to-point to equal the chest +/- 3/4."


Thank you. Math was never my best subject. I will call my daughter and have her measure my GD tomorrow. I rather it be too big on her, she could grow into it.

Very good idea.


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## tamarque

Welcome. We are starting with the miter square (MS) sample.
I trust you rec'd the updated pattern which provides the Chest measurement with the sweater size and needle sizes, P. 3 or 4 depending on how your pattern prints.

There is also a you tube video link on p.2 of this workshop at 14:05 pm that might be helpful in learning how to set up your miter square if you need/want a visual aid.


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## Designer1234

Designer here! I will drop by tomorrow morning for a few minutes (l0 am.) and then drop by in the afternoon. 

Have fun everyone. Don't hesitate to ask Tamarque questions and if you have a problem don't decide to leave your questions unasked. 

Shirley (Designer1234)


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## tamarque

Designer1234 said:


> SIGN IN NUMBERS
> 
> 7am Mountain Stand. Time (l0 am EST) There are *25*members signed in. Monday, l0 .45 pm Jan. 20


How wonderful. Thank you for collecting this data.

Not all will ask questions but that many people have signed 'IM in" also - I think this is going to be an excellent class. I won't be on until l0 am EST for just a few minutes in the morning and I will get back on later in the day. Have fun everyone.


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## Normaedern

Thank you for all the info for the guage. I shall do my maths for my MS later today. Then I might need to ask questions :thumbup:


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## Diane D

Welcome. Have you tried the sample miter square yet? Did you see the link for a video on P.2 in this workshop? That will be helpful if you need a visual.


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## cabbagehome

I want to join. When I go in to buy the pattern it will not me add a discount. Am I too late for discount?

No, you are not. The end date is Jan 26. Let me go in and see what the problem is. Thanx for informing me.

did you use the code Miter Square Sweater?

I just did the buy/checkout process. There is a button for applying the coupon.


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## marimom

I also gave the I'm In sign but have not heard anything. How will I get information about this workshop? Will it come every day as part of KP? Very confusing.


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## Normaedern

My MS is only 2.75 inches. The fabric is fairly dense. I have worked out that I would need 9 MS to give me a measurement of 24.75ins. Would I be better to do another MS on larger needles?

I would definitely do that to see what you get with a #7. If the yarn is a bit on the heavy side you might even try with a #8 needle. The fun of MS modulars is that you can adjust your size up or down depending on your liking. If you like the size you have you can do the 9 MS. If that is too dense, work with a larger needle to loosen it up. This is why we are taking the time to do this test knitting now.


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## tamarque

marimom said:


> I also gave the I'm In sign but have not heard anything. How will I get information about this workshop? Will it come every day as part of KP? Very confusing.


If you get email notices of posts here then just click on that link. However, many of us no longer get these notices from KP in our email and just come to this workshop directly. I tend to use the Watched Topics feature at the top of the page and scroll down to the forum I want. You will find this workshop there as we will be having ongoing posts.

What info do you need to get going? Have you read thru the pattern? Did you read thru the beginning comments on some questions others have had? That might be helpful to you. There is also a youtube video URL on doing a miter square that might be useful. I am tuned in here several times a day so post any questions you have. Others have just made, or are making their sample swatch and reviewing measurements and sizes.

Since we just started you catching the beginning.


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## chezalvera

Great. Please read thru the previous posts which may answer some of your questions for getting started. And ask any others that you may have.


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## Bubba24

When you slip the first stitch WYIF as if to purl, do you put the yarn between the 2 needles to get it back into the knitting position?
Thanks,
Fran


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## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> When you slip the first stitch WYIF as if to purl, do you put the yarn between the 2 needles to get it back into the knitting position?
> Thanks,
> Fran


Yes, you do. You will see that this gives you a nice V look on the edge and will make it very easy to pick up the stitches when we connect the MS's together.


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## Bubba24

I did my sample square and another square but did not cut the yarn on the second square. I think I am doing good. Also watched you tube a learned the long tail cast on, which is a lot easier that cable cast on. So excited.
Waiting for more directions to continue. Not rushing, taking my time.
Thank you for all your help.


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## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> I did my sample square and another square but did not cut the yarn on the second square. I think I am doing good. Also watched you tube a learned the long tail cast on, which is a lot easier that cable cast on. So excited.
> Waiting for more directions to continue. Not rushing, taking my time.
> Thank you for all your help.


Looking good. Glad you are feeling more comfortable. Long tail Cast On is a real workhorse of the cast ons available to us. I never knew of any other for many years. Very good you have it in your knitting tool box.

Have you measured your samples? And have you decided what size you want to make? That is the next step.


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## purl2diva

I'm in.i have made the Modern Quilt Wrap which was mitered squares.


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## Bubba24

tamarque said:


> Looking good. Glad you are feeling more comfortable. Long tail Cast On is a real workhorse of the cast ons available to us. I never knew of any other for many years. Very good you have it in your knitting tool box.
> 
> Have you measured your samples? And have you decided what size you want to make? That is the next step.


My squares are 3.5. I am making a size 5 unless I hear different from my daughter. These kids never get back to me in a timely matter.lol


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## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> My squares are 3.5. I am making a size 5 unless I hear different from my daughter. These kids never get back to me in a timely matter.lol


Sounds like it will work well.


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## tamarque

purl2diva said:


> I'm in.i have made the Modern Quilt Wrap which was mitered squares.


Terrific. Did you make your sample MS to check your gauge/dimensions? Do you know what size sweater you want to make?


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## tamarque

I seems like we have several people who have made the sample MS and hopefully know a what size sweater they are making. Again, I want to stress that this is the most important part of the pattern. Other dimensions can be be altered if your gauge changes w/o much difficulty, but the MS create a fixed dimension so I am really stressing this.

Next step is ensuring your sample size is correct to use in multiples to make the circumference dimension. Is everyone at this point or are there some other questions that people have at this step. I will give it till the morning to hear from people and then we can move forward. Let me know if there are any problems. I want to avoid confusion at this point. Not everyone has been posting but I assume everyone is reading.


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## Normaedern

I have now altered my needle size to one size larger and I have altered the stitch count to 27 and this produces a 3.5 MS. When I sized the other sample sqares I would have ended up with a jacker either to small or too big. Understanding the Maths was very helpful.


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## tamarque

Normaedern said:


> I have now altered my needle size to one size larger and I have altered the stitch count to 27 and this produces a 3.5 MS. When I sized the other sample sqares I would have ended up with a jacker either to small or too big. Understanding the Maths was very helpful.


Great. You've got it. Math is really very critical for knitting.
You can also now see how easy it is to control the sizing with the MS. A good lesson learned.


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## sisu

I did a sample ms with 23 st cast on size 6 needles. It measured 3.5. But I think I will stick with the larger MS and do the size 3 sweater.


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## tamarque

sisu said:


> I did a sample ms with 23 st cast on size 6 needles. It measured 3.5. But I think I will stick with the larger MS and do the size 3 sweater.


Okay, you have 4" MS. That means you will do 6 MS across x 4" = 24." This is fine for size 3. Really nice color btw.


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## marimom

Thank you so much. I purchased the pattern yesterday but have many WIP to finish so I will be lurking for awhile. Very excited to make this sweater more than once because it is so unusual.



tamarque said:


> If you get email notices of posts here then just click on that link. However, many of us no longer get these notices from KP in our email and just come to this workshop directly. I tend to use the Watched Topics feature at the top of the page and scroll down to the forum I want. You will find this workshop there as we will be having ongoing posts.
> 
> What info do you need to get going? Have you read thru the pattern? Did you read thru the beginning comments on some questions others have had? That might be helpful to you. There is also a youtube video URL on doing a miter square that might be useful. I am tuned in here several times a day so post any questions you have. Others have just made, or are making their sample swatch and reviewing measurements and sizes.
> 
> Since we just started you catching the beginning.


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## tamarque

So it seems that people have done their samples and checked to ensure that when they are lined up the correct dimension will be made.

NEXT STEP

Now we will begin making the bottom of the sweater. Make a second MS exactly like the first. Take a look at the photo in your pattern on P.4. It shows 2 completed MS and a connecting one being made in white. This is how to do it.

You have a live stitch on your needle. I use it for the first stitch. Now with RS facing you, begin to pick up stitches along the edge. You will have a V stitch on the edge from the slip stitch. Insert you needle under the 2 legs of the V and pull up a loop/stitch. Continue to pick up stitches in each V stitch. There should be the same number of stitches as you have on each side of the MS. So a 25 Stitch MS will have 12 st on each leg + 1 for the corner.

For example, if you used 25 stitches for your MS, you will have 12 st on the needle. 25 st- 1 = 24; 24/2 =12 for each leg or side of the MS

Now pick up 1 stitch in the very corner. And begin to pick up the same number of stitches on the edge of the second MS. You should have the same number of stitches as you CO for the other MS.

Here is a video for a visual for picking up the stitches along the edge. 




Note: The video shows the steps for CO stitches for the next MS which does not attach 2 MS. Save this link as we will be doing this on the 4th MS. For the 3rd MS we are attaching 2 squares together. I just liked the video for picking up the edge stitches for this pattern.


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## Designer1234

*GOOD MORNING EVERYONE! DESIGNER1234 HERE*!

It looks like the class is coming along nicely. It does seem that there are not many questions or discussion. * If you are doing the workshop please let us know, as it is difficult for the teacher if a few are not joining in*. I see that a few are discussing the jacket and we hope more will join in.

There are quite a few who have signed in. I am wondering whether some or a lot of them are just lurking which is okay. However if you are doing the class please let us know.

The class information will be posted but it is easier to teach if someone runs into a problem and asks about it.

Have fun everyone. Tamarque - thank you for posting this class information. We appreciate it very much.

See you all later


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## jscaplen

Designer1234 said:


> ...I am wondering whether some or a lot of them are just lurking which is okay...


I have purchased the pattern but will not be knitting it right now. So that makes me a lurker.


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## tamarque

jscaplen said:


> I have purchased the pattern but will not be knitting it right now. So that makes me a lurker.


Lurking is fine. Just like to know that I am talking to people and that the information is useful and that I am moving at a speed that is comfortable for others.


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## sisu

Does the row that we are picking up count as row 1?


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## Bubba24

tamarque said:


> Lurking is fine. Just like to know that I am talking to people and that the information is useful and that I am moving at a speed that is comfortable for others.


I am following right along with you and for me you are going at a good speed. I just added my 3rd square. I think it is alright. I have to say my 3rd square came out better than the first 2.


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## jscaplen

Bubba24 said:


> ...I just added my 3rd square...


Way to go!


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## tamarque

sisu said:


> Does the row that we are picking up count as row 1?[/quot
> 
> No, Knit the first row WS, making sure you slip the first stitch. The next row, RS, begins the double decreases. The decreases are always on the RS.


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## sisu

Bubba24 said:


> I am following right along with you and for me you are going at a good speed. I just added my 3rd square. I think it is alright. I have to say my 3rd square came out better than the first 2.


Looks great! I like the contrasting color.


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## Normaedern

Bubba24 said:


> I am following right along with you and for me you are going at a good speed. I just added my 3rd square. I think it is alright. I have to say my 3rd square came out better than the first 2.


Great and I love the contrast :thumbup:


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## Bubba24

sisu said:


> Looks great! I like the contrasting color.


Thanks. I just picked out colors that are in the verigated yarn and will be picking randomly. 
So far not as hard as I thought it would be. Hope it stays that way. We do have a good teacher.
Fran


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## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> I am following right along with you and for me you are going at a good speed. I just added my 3rd square. I think it is alright. I have to say my 3rd square came out better than the first 2.


Excellent. I am so glad you posted so we can see what people are doing. Your colors look wonderful--good contrast but calm.

The next Miter square comes off the third one. Have you looked at the diagram in the pattern that numbers the order that the miter squares are done?

The 4th square uses the single stitch left on the needle from MS #3. Pick up the stitches along the left side just as you did the with the 3rd MS. Pick up the middle stitch right at the corner of MS 3.

Turn the work and CO 12 stitches so you have all your stitches on the needle. I used a Cable Cast. The video I sent earlier used a Knit CO. You can use either. The different btw the two is the the Cable cast on puts the right needle between the first and second stitch on the left needle and pulls thru a loop and the Knit cast on goes into the first stitch, pulls up a loop. Both methods place the new loop on the left needle.

When you have finished the CO your work is the WS facing your ready to knit across.

Now work the 4th MS. When you finish this unit pull your yarn thru that last stitch and cut it.

You will then proceed to knitting #5 MS as you did the first 2. That MS will get attached in the same way that you connected MS #1 & #2 by making a new square between them. In this case MS #6 will connect MS #2 and #5.

MS #7 will then connect MS #3 & #6. Cut the thread of MS #7 and pull thru the last loop.

Continue in this manner make diagonal columns of 3 MS until you have all but the last one. If you look at the diagram on P.5 of the pattern, notice the last MS #20 is at the top of the last would be column.

This last MS is done by CO 12 st and then picking up 13 stitches along the right side of the last MS, the reverse of #4 where first we picked up st off a square and then cast on.
Cut the thread and pull thru the last st.

Let me give you a bit of time to get this whole section complete.

Now you can see why getting our MS size was so important. When you finish the last column of MS's there will be a nice panel for the bottom of the sweater. Once this is done we will go around the perimeter to fill in the triangular spaces. The top and bottom triangles are a half MS. The upper corners and middle side triangles are done a bit differently but let me give you some time to explore the MS and making the connections.

They are fun and quick to do so enjoy and get back to me as soon as you are ready to move forward.


----------



## tamarque

I must let everyone know that I am leaving town Friday afternoon and may not have any computer access till I return on Sunday. So please try and ask me any questions you may have tonight or tomorrow morning so I dont hold you up. 

I am hoping that by the time you work thru the MS's you will feel more comfortable and can try to work the 1/2 triangles on your own.


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> Thanks. I just picked out colors that are in the verigated yarn and will be picking randomly.
> So far not as hard as I thought it would be. Hope it stays that way. We do have a good teacher.
> Fran


Thank you Fran. So glad you are getting it. These modulars really are fun with room for so much variation and creativity. I used the same variegated yarn throughout and added solid striping for contrast. But I could just as easily have done as you with solid MS alternated with the multi-colors.


----------



## Bubba24

Since my ms is done with 27 stitches, when making the 4th square do I pick up 13 stitches and then cast on 14 stitches?


----------



## Bubba24

I just looked at the diagram. Are the ms 1,2,5,8 etc. the bottom of the sweater? I don't want to go too far ahead because I get confused easily. Lol. 
Fran :-D


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> Since my ms is done with 27 stitches, when making the 4th square do I pick up 13 stitches and then cast on 14 stitches?


Yes indeed. Sounds like you've got it now.


----------



## tamarque

sisu said:


> Does the row that we are picking up count as row 1?


Sorry if I missed your post yesterday. Seemed to remember answering this question, but maybe it wasn't you. So in case you still need an answer:

No, it is not. Row 1 is a WS knit row and Row 2, RS, begins the double decrease rows.


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> I just looked at the diagram. Are the ms 1,2,5,8 etc. the bottom of the sweater? I don't want to go too far ahead because I get confused easily. Lol.
> Fran :-D


Yes, that is the bottom. The diagram is oriented for the sweater. You are doing really well.


----------



## Bubba24

Enjoy your weekend. I started my 4th square. Hopefully I will be further along when you get back without encountering any problems.


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> Enjoy your weekend. I started my 4th square. Hopefully I will be further along when you get back without encountering any problems.


I have confidence in you. Go for it.

When/if you finish all the MS, read the next section on the fill in triangles. We begin them at the top right side. We do the top triangles, then the bottom ones. These are followed by the side middle triangles and the upper right and left corners.

The diagram of the squares uses letters for the perimeter triangles. You can see the order they follow.

Hope everyone is enjoying these MS and learning the construction process.


----------



## beahop

Hi,
But how do I see the video to learn this craft? Beahop


----------



## Bubba24

Look on page 2. There is a video there. And there is also another video on another page. You can also go to you tube and see video's.


----------



## WandaT

tamarque said:


> An updated pattern has been sent to everyone with pagination so we can communicate easier. Also Gauge and Chest dimension have been added to chart on P.3-4.


How are you providing the updated pattern?


----------



## Designer1234

There are now SIGN IN NUMBERS

There are*30 * members signed inSaturday 9:25 pm Pacific Standard time. (I am on Vancouver island - it is 3 hours later in EST.


----------



## Designer1234

Tanya -- your class is excellently prepared and I appreciate the work you have put into this class. Good job. Designer1234


----------



## tamarque

Good afternoon everyone. I am back in town and ready to answer questions and help move forward.


----------



## tamarque

WandaT said:


> How are you providing the updated pattern?


Wanda, the updated pattern was sent out about 3 days after we began. If you purchased your copy of the pattern after that, then you have the updated one. I think the easiest way to know if if the PDF is paginated. That was one of the updated details I included.

Any/all updates will be sent out via Ravelry at no charge.


----------



## tamarque

beahop said:


> Hi,
> But how do I see the video to learn this craft? Beahop


I hope you found the video links and were able to view them. Let me know if you are having a problem.


----------



## Bubba24

Welcome back Tanya. Just in time for the blizzard.
This is as far as I got. It looks right to me. I am really enjoying this workshop. The triangles I think I am doing in the lime green.


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> Welcome back Tanya. Just in time for the blizzard.
> This is as far as I got. It looks right to me. I am really enjoying this workshop. The triangles I think I am doing in the lime green.


Excellent! So glad you are enjoying it. When I said it would be fun, I kid you not. Just pay attention to the dimensions and when finished they will add up the width you want. And really like your colors.


----------



## tamarque

Let me share a little tip. When you are tuning your rows and doing the slip stitch, pull the yarn a little to tighten up the end stitch. It will help uneven dimensions.


----------



## WandaT

tamarque said:


> Wanda, the updated pattern was sent out about 3 days after we began. If you purchased your copy of the pattern after that, then you have the updated one. I think the easiest way to know if if the PDF is paginated. That was one of the updated details I included.
> 
> Any/all updates will be sent out via Ravelry at no charge.


My copy does not have page numbers, so I have the old copy...is that correct? If so, I can go to Ravelry and get an updated copy????


----------



## tamarque

WandaT said:


> My copy does not have page numbers, so I have the old copy...is that correct? If so, I can go to Ravelry and get an updated copy????


not sure how Ravelry does this. I removed the old copy and sent the updated one to everyone who purchased the pattern. let me check this out for you.


----------



## tamarque

Hi All--How is everybody doing? No questions? All the MS sizing is working out so you will have the correct width when all the columns of MS are finished?

Please check in with me so I know when you are ready of move forward.


----------



## tamarque

I want to thank Peggy for pointing me towards the Harlequin Swing Jacket made totally with Miter squares. That is a stunning project. Here is a picture of this jacket posted on KP:

http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-203196-1.html

This is a teaser for other MS projects once you have learned this little one we are working on now.


----------



## Normaedern

Hello Tamarque, I have knitted only two MS. I shall do some more tonight but don't wait as I will catch up.


----------



## tamarque

Normaedern said:


> Hello Tamarque, I have knitted only two MS. I shall do some more tonight but don't wait as I will catch up.


Thanx for checking in. Are you having any questions?


----------



## beahop

WandaT said:


> My copy does not have page numbers, so I have the old copy...is that correct? If so, I can go to Ravelry and get an updated copy????


 Once upon a time, I saw a similar pattern for the miter stitch called Domino knitting. It was very nice watching it on You tube. Can you verify this as the same as the Miter stitch squares? Bea


----------



## sisu

Tanya, I have done 3 MS. I am a bit confused about adding the 4th. Which way am I holding the 3 squares I've already done when adding in the new one? what side should be facing me?


----------



## sisu

tamarque said:


> I want to thank Peggy for pointing me towards the Harlequin Swing Jacket made totally with Miter squares. That is a stunning project. Here is a picture of this jacket posted on KP:
> 
> http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-203196-1.html
> 
> This is a teaser for other MS projects once you have learned this little one we are working on now.


Omg that jacket is amazing!!


----------



## Bubba24

Hi Tanya,
I am ready to start square #14.
I have been on the phone a lot checking on my children and family in NY. Now that I know they are all safe I can work on my squares again.
Stay safe.
Fran


----------



## tamarque

beahop said:


> Once upon a time, I saw a similar pattern for the miter stitch called Domino knitting. It was very nice watching it on You tube. Can you verify this as the same as the Miter stitch squares? Bea


Yes. There is a book called Domino Knitting, a little thing, with a variety of patterns demonstrating the use of these modules in a variety of projects.

There are a couple of variations on how to to them, but basically they are the same concept. One variation works with an even number of stitches and does (2) dec a row. And some people don't begin with a slip stitch. And on larger MS modules it is easier to employ different stitches including some lace.

If you like doing this module knitting, you might like to explore variations later on.


----------



## tamarque

sisu said:


> Tanya, I have done 3 MS. I am a bit confused about adding the 4th. Which way am I holding the 3 squares I've already done when adding in the new one? what side should be facing me?


Hold them facing you. Begin at the top of the 3rd square where you have 1 st on the needle. Pick up the stitches on going down the left side of the 3rd MS. Then turn the work and CO the remaining stitches for the 4th modules. So, if you are working with 25 stitches, you have 1 st on the needle, pick up 12 st along the side. The last st should be right in the corner of the 3rd MS. When you turn and CO using the Cable or Knit CO, as you chose, the WS will be facing you ready to be know across all the stitches. Turn, RS facing and knit the first decrease row of this module.

Did you watch there video link I posted? It was on P.4, but I will post it here for you:






When this block if finished cut the yarn and pull it thru the last stitch. Then begin the next column of MS's, same as the previous one.

Hope this helps. And have fun.


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> Hi Tanya,
> I am ready to start square #14.
> I have been on the phone a lot checking on my children and family in NY. Now that I know they are all safe I can work on my squares again.
> Stay safe.
> Fran


Yes, safe is important. NYS is under state of emergency in many places, especially NYC. You are making headway, so keep at it. Again, I am here to answer and support your learning.


----------



## beahop

tamarque said:


> Yes. There is a book called Domino Knitting, a little thing, with a variety of patterns demonstrating the use of these modules in a variety of projects.
> 
> There are a couple of variations on how to to them, but basically they are the same concept. One variation works with an even number of stitches and does (2) dec a row. And some people don't begin with a slip stitch. And on larger MS modules it is easier to employ different stitches including some lace.
> 
> If you like doing this module knitting, you might like to explore variations later on.


 I have done further research and found the Harlequin shawl with the MS. Thanks for verifying it. Looking forward to see if I can figure out how to make that toddler's jacket. There is one that I printed out, and maybe it is just what we are doing. be a

Glad you like the links sent. But am confused about your last point. This workshop is about making the Toddler Miter Square Jacket and that is what I am here to help you with. So just shoot me your questions to help you.


----------



## Normaedern

I have no questions for you, Tamarque. I am ready to start the 2nd column. Great teaching :thumbup:


----------



## Diane D

beahop said:


> Once upon a time, I saw a similar pattern for the miter stitch called Domino knitting. It was very nice watching it on You tube. Can you verify this as the same as the Miter stitch squares? Bea


i was just looking at the book called Domino knitting and thinking the same thing...


----------



## tamarque

Normaedern said:


> I have no questions for you, Tamarque. I am ready to start the 2nd column. Great teaching :thumbup:


Appreciate your feedback Norma. Doing workshops online is a challenge because you have no idea how people are doing unless they post. So glad to know it is working for you.


----------



## Alimac

Hi. I'm in. Missed the post. Hadn't been logged on a few days, was under the weather. Looking forward to to workshop.


----------



## tamarque

Alimac said:


> Hi. I'm in. Missed the post. Hadn't been logged on a few days, was under the weather. Looking forward to to workshop.


Welcome. Glad you are feeling better. If you haven't already, go back and read the Workshop notes. I walked thru the process of making a sample miter and choosing your project size. This is a most important step. I suggest you read the notes and then ask me for any other information you may need to get started. There are also 2 video links provided. The first is on the basic miter square so you have a visual if you need it. Make sure you do the sample first and chose your sizing. This may be a bit confusing at first. It may be necessary to make more than one sample to get your MS size. It is well worth the time. And I am here for questions.


----------



## beahop

Hi,
Why can't I use kw yarn instead of sock yarn? My stash doesn't consist of this yarn. Nor would I want to go out and buy it. I feel that I can adjust the tension with different size needle to make the size of the ms. I am not trying to be difficult, just that with arthritic hands, it is hard working with thin yarn. Bea


----------



## Bubba24

Hi Tanya,
Hope you didn't get hit too hard with the blizzard.
I have 2 more squares to go then I will be ready to start the next step. So far so good. I will post a picture tomorrow.
Fran


----------



## tamarque

beahop said:


> Hi,
> Why can't I use kw yarn instead of sock yarn? My stash doesn't consist of this yarn. Nor would I want to go out and buy it. I feel that I can adjust the tension with different size needle to make the size of the ms. I am not trying to be difficult, just that with arthritic hands, it is hard working with thin yarn. Bea


What is kw yarn? Do you mean DK wt? You can use DK wt. Sock yarn was to be used double strand so you had a DK wt. Variegated sock yarn was used in the pattern because of the richness of color that was achieved when working double strand.

Dk wt can be used single strand instead.

If you use worsted wt, there has to be conversions of stitch count to achieve the size you want to make. I do understand the physical limitations.


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> Hi Tanya,
> Hope you didn't get hit too hard with the blizzard.
> I have 2 more squares to go then I will be ready to start the next step. So far so good. I will post a picture tomorrow.
> Fran


Looking forward to seeing your panel of MS.
Thanks for asking Fran--snowfall was less than 2"--so far so good. Hope you family is safe.


----------



## Bubba24

All my family is safe from the storm. My dtr lives in Coram and got 30" and my sister in Farmingdale got about 24".
I finished my ms section. I think it looks right. The measurement seems right. Now to decide which color to use for the next part. I am leaning towards the lime green. 
If you want I will wait until others catch up to continue.
On squares 4,7,10 etc it said to leave a 6-8" yarn for finishing later. I did that, but what will it finish?
Fran


----------



## beahop

Hi,
Thanks for answering a very puzzling question. I see from the pictures that there are 7 ms across or wide. I'll use that as a guide. I'm going to order the pattern next month. I'm strapped with funds right now. Be a

I will answer your questions separately for clarity.

This part of the pattern is based on modules which have a unique size based on your stitch gauge, yarn wt and number of stitches used for the module. We reviewed how to figure out the number of ms needed to get your required width. The pattern has a chart with suggested needle size and module size to produce the width you need. We also did the sample so you could see how the modules worked and see how they could be adjusted to get your desired results.

In Fran's project she needed 7 ms across to get the size she is making. Some people may need to make more or less. In the one that is shown for this workshop I did a size 4 with a 26" finished chest width. The pattern begins with a size 3 but once you understand the pattern it can be adjusted down or up. Baby/toddler sweaters are so easy as they have very little shaping and can be adjusted for different sizes without too much trouble.


----------



## beahop

Hi,
I am wondering about the width of your jacket. Is it for an older child or a teen-ager. It looks too big for a baby. Just trying to learn the difference in the yarns you used. Be a

I actually answered this in my response to your first question.
Making this in a larger size such as 8-10 would be interesting. A bit of shaping would have to be added that is not needed in the smaller sizes.


----------



## beahop

tamarque said:


> Welcome. Glad you are feeling better.
> 
> *PLEASE NOTE EVERYONE*:
> 
> If you haven't already, go back and read the Workshop notes. I walked thru the process of making a sample miter and choosing your project size. This is a most important step.
> 
> _I suggest you read the notes and then ask me for any other information you may need to get started. There are also 2 video links provided. The first is on the basic miter square so you have a visual if you need it. Make sure you do the sample first and chose your sizing_
> 
> . This may be a bit confusing at first. It may be necessary to make more than one sample to get your MS size. It is well worth the time. And I am here for questions.


 Hi, Where can I get the information of the workshop. I misplaced mine. Be a

This is the workshop. Just go back to the first page and read through. You can see the other questions and answers and find the video links that you may want to watch now to familiarize yourself with the process of the MS modules. And stay in tune with it as people begin to ask more questions and post their progress. We have quite a few people who signed in for it so I am guessing that they are just watching and working and will post when they are ready. I am excited at seeing everyone's version of this design.


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> All my family is safe from the storm. My dtr lives in Coram and got 30" and my sister in Farmingdale got about 24".
> I finished my ms section. I think it looks right. The measurement seems right. Now to decide which color to use for the next part. I am leaning towards the lime green.
> If you want I will wait until others catch up to continue.
> On squares 4,7,10 etc it said to leave a 6-8" yarn for finishing later. I did that, but what will it finish?
> Fran


Oh, my, your colors are getting so exciting. Love them. Warm water colors to my eye.

The tails are just to give you enough to finish off. You can leave them to the end of knit them in as you work.

The next will be the triangles to fill in the edges.

I am so glad you posted your photos. It will help others to see this progress, and I love seeing your progression.

Eastern LI got hit pretty badly. My area was spared any real inconvenience.


----------



## Bubba24

beahop said:


> Hi,
> I am wondering about the width of your jacket. Is it for an older child or a teen-ager. It looks too big for a baby. Just trying to learn the difference in the yarns you used. Bea


The width of mine is about 28". I am making the size 5. I am also using a DK weight. I am a loose knitter but I measured each of my squares as I went along and each square measures 3.5".


----------



## Bubba24

Hi Tanya,
I just did my first triangle. Before I go any further, is this right? I had to do alittle adjusting because my squares are done on 27 stitches not 25. I hope I did it right.
Fran


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> Hi Tanya,
> I just did my first triangle. Before I go any further, is this right? I had to do alittle adjusting because my squares are done on 27 stitches not 25. I hope I did it right.
> Fran


When you do your triangles you will have 2 extra stitches as with your MS. So you will be picking up 27 st in the triangle instead of 25 and you will have 2 extra st to dec. Same process, just a wee bit more of it. Glad to see your confidence in moving forward. You are definitely getting it.

If you would like to send a pic so everyone can see, feel free to do so. Or maybe you want to do a few of them first. As you feel comfortable doing.


----------



## Bubba24

tamarque said:


> When you do your triangles you will have 2 extra stitches as with your MS. So you will be picking up 27 st in the triangle instead of 25 and you will have 2 extra st to dec. Same process, just a wee bit more of it. Glad to see your confidence in moving forward. You are definitely getting it.
> 
> If you would like to send a pic so everyone can see, feel free to do so. Or maybe you want to do a few of them first. As you feel comfortable doing.


Oops. Forgot to add a picture. I ended with 6 stitches so will just do the end over so I will just have 2 stitches. Lighting not so good, I went with the lime green.
Fran


----------



## Designer1234

DESIGNER1234 here! Good morning everyone -- it is 8am on Vancouver Island and you are all likely well into your day.

I think Tamarque is doing an excellent job and I see that it is being understood.

Remember ladies: as Tamarque can't see you work, the only way we will know that you are doing the jacket is by pictures and posts.

Jf you are having no difficulty please let us know where you are at, if you have run into a glitch please post so the teacher can help you and make sure you are on the right track.

All our classes have had the lack of face to face discussion.

This is your opportunity to learn Mitered squares and it is something you can use over and over and will give you a new technique to master.

I hope you all are enjoying yourselves. Tamarque -- great job and good information.

*The actual information is at the beginning as to how to set up your squares. So always read the workshop from beginning to end.*

Designer1234


----------



## Normaedern

Bubba24 said:


> Oops. Forgot to add a picture. I ended with 6 stitches so will just do the end over so I will just have 2 stitches. Lighting not so good, I went with the lime green.
> Fran


That is lovely colour work :thumbup:


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> Oops. Forgot to add a picture. I ended with 6 stitches so will just do the end over so I will just have 2 stitches. Lighting not so good, I went with the lime green.
> Fran


Looking good Fran. Not sure I understand. On the triangles you are only doing a half miter. The triangle stops with 5 stitches on a 25 st MS. I did this because the triangle begins to develop a 'hump on top' which will cause a problem if you do any more decreases or rows. With your 27 st MS, ending you should end with 7 st. It seems you had an extra decrease. Actually, it probably won't have much consequence. There is enough stretch in the fabric that you will be able to pick up all the stitches that will be needed for the top of the sweater.


----------



## tamarque

Designer1234 said:


> DESIGNER1234 here! Good morning everyone -- it is 8am on Vancouver Island and you are all likely well into your day.
> 
> I think Tamarque is doing an excellent job and I see that it is being understood.
> 
> Remember ladies: as Tamarque can't see you work, the only way we will know that you are doing the jacket is by pictures and posts.
> 
> Jf you are having no difficulty please let us know where you are at, if you have run into a glitch please post so the teacher can help you and make sure you are on the right track.
> 
> All our classes have had the lack of face to face discussion.
> 
> This is your opportunity to learn Mitered squares and it is something you can use over and over and will give you a new technique to master.
> 
> I hope you all are enjoying yourselves. Tamarque -- great job and good information.
> 
> *The actual information is at the beginning as to how to set up your squares. So always read the workshop from beginning to end.*
> 
> Designer1234


Nice of you to drop by Designer--Your support is always welcome.


----------



## Bubba24

tamarque said:


> Looking good Fran. Not sure I understand. On the triangles you are only doing a half miter. The triangle stops with 5 stitches on a 25 st MS. I did this because the triangle begins to develop a 'hump on top' which will cause a problem if you do any more decreases or rows. With your 27 st MS, ending you should end with 7 st. It seems you had an extra decrease. Actually, it probably won't have much consequence. There is enough stretch in the fabric that you will be able to pick up all the stitches that will be needed for the top of the sweater.


Hi Tanya
I figured out my mistake, I think. I was doing an extra decrease as you picked up on. I was trying to get to 5 stitches. I just did the 3rd triangle and when I got to 7 st. I did the bind off on the wrong side. I still had a little hump on top but much better. I think I will be able to "fudge it" when I do the next part and you won't see the hump.
Fran


----------



## marimom

Is Bubba24 the only person making this sweater? Where are the rest of you hiding? I have purchased the pattern and am keeping up with the Workshop notes but.......
I need some additional input from all of you out there, please.


----------



## Diane D

im taking notes whilst working so when i can get a chance, i will start. also deciding what colours to use....


----------



## Normaedern

marimom said:


> Is Bubba24 the only person making this sweater? Where are the rest of you hiding? I have purchased the pattern and am keeping up with the Workshop notes but.......
> I need some additional input from all of you out there, please.


I will post a photo of where I am up to later.


----------



## Bubba24

Good morning Tanya,
I have 5 triangles done and still getting that "hump" after I bind off. I am working to 7 stitches like you said. I thought maybe I was knitting too loose so I made sure I knit the last triangle tighter. I am pretty sure that hump won't show when I pick up the stitches for the body of the sweater.


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> Hi Tanya
> I figured out my mistake, I think. I was doing an extra decrease as you picked up on. I was trying to get to 5 stitches. I just did the 3rd triangle and when I got to 7 st. I did the bind off on the wrong side. I still had a little hump on top but much better. I think I will be able to "fudge it" when I do the next part and you won't see the hump.
> Fran


Good that you discovered the problem. That little hump will disappear with you pick up the stitches for the top. It is the exact reason I stopped the triangles at 5 st.

I try to remember that every mistake is an opportunity to learn something. You did well.


----------



## tamarque

marimom said:


> Is Bubba24 the only person making this sweater? Where are the rest of you hiding? I have purchased the pattern and am keeping up with the Workshop notes but.......
> I need some additional input from all of you out there, please.


Yes, indeed. What input are you wanting?


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> Good morning Tanya,
> I have 5 triangles done and still getting that "hump" after I bind off. I am working to 7 stitches like you said. I thought maybe I was knitting too loose so I made sure I knit the last triangle tighter. I am pretty sure that hump won't show when I pick up the stitches for the body of the sweater.


Did you change colors? Or is it my computer. Your triangles look white now and the bottom pink?


----------



## marimom

thank you so much.



Normaedern said:


> I will post a photo of where I am up to later.


----------



## marimom

How others are coming along with the jacket. any concerns. or is it a breeze.



tamarque said:


> Yes, indeed. What input are you wanting?


----------



## Normaedern

marimom said:


> thank you so much.


I am not finding any problems. The pattern is very clear. It took me a little time to figure out the engineering of attaching the MS but the was a "me" problem. Once the head had got it is is a breeze :thumbup:


----------



## Diane D

Normaedern said:


> I am not finding any problems. The pattern is very clear. It took me a little time to figure out the engineering of attaching the MS but the was a "me" problem. Once the head had got it is is a breeze :thumbup:


Love love love your colours!!!


----------



## tamarque

Normaedern said:


> I am not finding any problems. The pattern is very clear. It took me a little time to figure out the engineering of attaching the MS but the was a "me" problem. Once the head had got it is is a breeze :thumbup:


Norma--the multi-color yarn is working up beautifully. These modules really are a breeze.

I am thinking of doing a hat to go along with the jacket. What does everyone think of that? It would be working circularly with them.


----------



## Normaedern

tamarque said:


> Norma--the multi-color yarn is working up beautifully. What size are you making again?


Tamarque, I am doing size 3. I am pleased with the yarn. I showed it to DD and she loved it. She was planning when DGS would wear it :thumbup:


----------



## jscaplen

Normaedern said:


> I am not finding any problems. ...


Looking grand, Norma. Love those colours.


----------



## Bubba24

tamarque said:


> Did you change colors? Or is it my computer. Your triangles look white now and the bottom pink?


No, I didn't change colors. The triangles are lime green and the bottom is still the multi color. Maybe the lighting made it look that way. I just looked back at the photo and saw it looked pink.


----------



## Bubba24

Norma, I love your colors. And your right, once the brain catch's on it really is easy. I can't even tell you how many times I had to take it out in the beginning.
Tanya,
I was thinking about a hat to go with it. I think it is a great idea.


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> Norma, I love your colors. And your right, once the brain catch's on it really is easy. I can't even tell you how many times I had to take it out in the beginning.
> Tanya,
> I was thinking about a hat to go with it. I think it is a great idea.


I agree. Will try to work one up shortly. Maybe a beanie type with a little something on top. Am letting the brain work on it.


----------



## tamarque

Normaedern said:


> Tamarque, I am doing size 3. I am pleased with the yarn. I showed it to DD and she loved it. She was planning when DGS would wear it :thumbup:


That is good to hear. I know it made you feel good about your yarn choices. Can't wait to see everyone else's projects. There is so much room for color play here.


----------



## Normaedern

jscaplen said:


> Looking grand, Norma. Love those colours.


 :thumbup: :thumbup:


----------



## eshlemania

I am following along. Not going to be able to do the sweater, BUT I want to work up samples etc. It looks like it goes pretty fast. Maybe when I get started, I will just carry on. 

Norma and Fran, your miters are looking fantastic!!


----------



## Normaedern

Thank you Bev. I am enjoying the workshop. :thumbup:


----------



## TLL

Normaedern said:


> I am not finding any problems. The pattern is very clear. It took me a little time to figure out the engineering of attaching the MS but the was a "me" problem. Once the head had got it is is a breeze :thumbup:


Looking great, Norma! It looks like you are having a lot of fun with this. 

Tanya, a hat with these squares would be great!!!


----------



## jangmb

Normaedern said:


> I am not finding any problems. The pattern is very clear. It took me a little time to figure out the engineering of attaching the MS but the was a "me" problem. Once the head had got it is is a breeze :thumbup:


Love your colors, Norma. Your ms will be lovely when finished. I do not see a lot of questions posted so you must be doing a great job, Tanya, and your pattern must be very well written. This project is a way down on my list so am just following for now


----------



## MissMelba

Love what I see so far. I am not doing this project but lurking as I have a miter square skirt I want to do so want the tips  I do have the pattern so if a little one comes along I already have a great gift idea.


----------



## beahop

sisu said:


> I am using dk, but have not had a chance to cast on yet.
> 
> I don't see a link to the video.


 Me too. I would like to see it. Especially for this pattern. Bea


----------



## tamarque

jangmb said:


> Love your colors, Norma. Your ms will be lovely when finished. I do not see a lot of questions posted so you must be doing a great job, Tanya, and your pattern must be very well written. This project is a way down on my list so am just following for now


I think following along will be useful for when you are ready to work the pattern. Of course the workshop notes will be available for review on the KP files.

Do hope you are right about the pattern being written so well people don't have too many questions. But sure would like to see what others are making. Hint, hint everyone.


----------



## tamarque

beahop said:


> Me too. I would like to see it. Especially for this pattern. Bea


Bea, please read the Workshop notes and you will find the links to the videos.


----------



## Bubba24

eshlemania said:


> I am following along. Not going to be able to do the sweater, BUT I want to work up samples etc. It looks like it goes pretty fast. Maybe when I get started, I will just carry on.
> 
> Norma and Fran, your miters are looking fantastic!!


Thank you Bev. I thought it was going to be difficult but it really is pretty easy. I am really enjoying this workshop and Tanya is a great teacher.


----------



## beahop

tamarque said:


> Bea, please read the Workshop notes and you will find the links to the videos.


 Hi,
I am sorry, but I cannot find them. Should I look at You tube and make out what I understand? Under Domino, I got lots of information and maybe stick with it. Not too sure about making the jacket. Very discouraged about the complexity. Be a

I think the video links are on P. 2 and 3 or maybe 4 of this workshop. Of course you can look on youtube. There are quite a few videos there. I chose links that use the same techniques that I did, but others will work as well.


----------



## WandaT

Hi All: I thought I had yarn for this project, but I have not been able to find it. I may need to go shopping this weekend. I have watched the videos and read all the postings so I can get started right away when I get the yarn I need. Hope to post something soon.


----------



## marimom

Glad to hear you are not finding any problems. I also love your colors. I would like to know what yarns you are using?



Normaedern said:


> I am not finding any problems. The pattern is very clear. It took me a little time to figure out the engineering of attaching the MS but the was a "me" problem. Once the head had got it is is a breeze :thumbup:


----------



## beahop

beahop said:


> Hi,
> I am sorry, but I cannot find them. Should I look at You tube and make out what I understand? Under Domino, I got lots of information and maybe stick with it. Not too sure about making the jacket. Very discouraged about the complexity. Be a
> 
> I think the video links are on P. 2 and 3 or maybe 4 of this workshop. Of course you can look on youtube. There are quite a few videos there. I chose links that use the same techniques that I did, but others will work as well.


 Hi,
thanks for the answers. It will help somewhat in what I am trying to do. I saw some of the squares being joined, but which way? It shows the added stitches being CO, but which way does it go? to the left to join the previous squares? Bea


----------



## Normaedern

Thank you for all your kind remarks. The wool is King Cole Zig Zag and the colour is Sunshine


----------



## tamarque

beahop said:


> Hi,
> thanks for the answers. It will help somewhat in what I am trying to do. I saw some of the squares being joined, but which way? It shows the added stitches being CO, but which way does it go? to the left to join the previous squares? Bea


I work from the left to the right. Each square get connected on the left side to the previous one.


----------



## tamarque

Normaedern said:


> Thank you for all your kind remarks. The wool is King Cole Zig Zag and the colour is Sunshine


Have never worked with King Cole yarn but have seen it sold on the European sites. It is a British yarn I think???

Another question that may show my cultural deficiency. Is it a wool yarn you are using? or just using that word as a general term for yarn? I have come across this use of the word before so am asking.

And that color definitely is Sunshine. Will be perfect for a young child.


----------



## Normaedern

tamarque said:


> Have never worked with King Cole yarn but have seen it sold on the European sites. It is a British yarn I think???
> 
> Another question that may show my cultural deficiency. Is it a wool yarn you are using? or just using that word as a general term for yarn? I have come across this use of the word before so am asking.
> 
> And that color definitely is Sunshine. Will be perfect for a young child.


It is a British yarn. Sorry I used the word wool. I try not to but it slipped this time! I meant yarn. That is cultural. Although it is superwash 50% wool 50% nylon. DD isn't careful at washing.


----------



## sisu

Fran, I like your color combination and Norma your variegated is looking wonderful too.
Meanwhile, I don't know what my problem is, but my brain is not catching on I guess. I can do the mitered square, but even with your excellent instructions Tanya I am still not attaching that fourth square correct! I thought I had it, but it is on the right side instead of the left. Can I use it as square 7 and somehow attach a different one to make number 4? Or should I frog and try again?


----------



## Normaedern

Caryn, I love your squares. I can see that they are not attached properly. Which is your first sqare?


----------



## sisu

Normaedern said:


> Caryn, I love your squares. I can see that they are not attached properly. Which is your first sqare?


Thanks Norma. The first one is on the bottom left.


----------



## beahop

tamarque said:


> I work from the left to the right. Each square get connected on the left side to the previous one.


 So, what you are saying is after I add on the stitches, I knit "back" to the previous stitch and pick up the loop left on from the last one I did. It's a little complicated for an old lady of 80 to "think". But we have ladies over 90's in our club who are doing very well on their projects. What can I say? Keep trying. Bea


----------



## tamarque

Normaedern said:


> It is a British yarn. Sorry I used the word wool. I try not to but it slipped this time! I meant yarn. That is cultural. Although it is superwash 50% wool 50% nylon. DD isn't careful at washing.


Oh, no need to apologize. Just thought to clarify. And it is 50% wool. I try never to make children's things that are not washable myself. So glad for the merino wools and the blends that allow machine washing along with nice texture.


----------



## tamarque

sisu said:


> Fran, I like your color combination and Norma your variegated is looking wonderful too.
> Meanwhile, I don't know what my problem is, but my brain is not catching on I guess. I can do the mitered square, but even with your excellent instructions Tanya I am still not attaching that fourth square correct! I thought I had it, but it is on the right side instead of the left. Can I use it as square 7 and somehow attach a different one to make number 4? Or should I frog and try again?


_Your problem Caryn is that you picked up your stitches on the right side of the 3rd MS instead of on the left side_.

You can pick up your stitches on the left side of the 3rd MS and work that one. The issue you will have with the one you did to the right side, which is #7 MS position, is making the connection to the 6th MS. If you leave your your right side MS you have to seam the #6 to it.  Given that these are such small units, I would take it out as your project will work more smoothly. And the worst is that you will have extra ends to finish off. Hope I am being clear enough. If not, just ask more.

*On the bright side, I am glad you made this error as it gives everyone a chance to take a look at what it means to have this happen and how easy it is to make the correction. So I thank you*.

And I love that you are adding additional color striping to MS units. Are you knitting in your ends as you go, or leaving them till later?


----------



## sisu

That's what I will do then and try to get it on the correct side this time&#128521;. 
I will leave the ends till last, procrastinator that I am.


----------



## Normaedern

sisu said:


> That's what I will do then and try to get it on the correct side this time😉.
> I will leave the ends till last, procrastinator that I am.


Caryn, thank you for asking the question. It got me thinking how I could help and I understand the workings of what we are doing much better, now :thumbup:


----------



## tamarque

sisu said:


> That's what I will do then and try to get it on the correct side this time😉.
> I will leave the ends till last, procrastinator that I am.


Just personal preference. I knit is some of mine and left others till the end.


----------



## jscaplen

sisu said:


> ...I can do the mitered square, but ... I am still not attaching that fourth square correct!...


Sorry that I can't help with your construction problem, Caryn, but I love the colours that you are combining.


----------



## eshlemania

Caryn, love your colors. I just thought of some yarn that I have, that I could use to practice with.  Next week.


----------



## Bubba24

Hi Tanya,
I am on my side triangles. I picked up the 13 stitches . Next row, ws s1p, k8 k2 tog, k1 then it says to pu1 from ms 4. After the k1 I have one stitch left on the needle before I pu1. What do I do with that stitch?
Fran


----------



## sisu

Thanks Jane and Bev. It is fun playing with the colors in my stash. 

I finally got that 4th MS in the correct place and faced the correct way! Now on to the 5th.


----------



## tamarque

eshlemania said:


> Caryn, love your colors. I just thought of some yarn that I have, that I could use to practice with.  Next week.


That is what was suggested for practice and to test your gauge. In this project it is critical to get the size of your MS right to make the size of the project that you chose. In something like a scarf it is not critical, but for clothing it is. So play away with needle size and stitch count. I did so many of them working out the different sweater sizes. They are quick and fun to do. And then you can play with colors and add striping to jazz up the MS. Or mix and match different MS as Fran is doing.


----------



## tamarque

sisu said:


> Thanks Jane and Bev. It is fun playing with the colors in my stash.
> 
> I finally got that 4th MS in the correct place and faced the correct way! Now on to the 5th.


Way to go Caryn!


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> Hi Tanya,
> I am on my side triangles. I picked up the 13 stitches . Next row, ws s1p, k8 k2 tog, k1 then it says to pu1 from ms 4. After the k1 I have one stitch left on the needle before I pu1. What do I do with that stitch?
> Fran


Did you adjust for the extra stitch on your MS leg? You are working with a 27 st MS? So you should be doing a K9, instead of K8. I see there needs to be an additional note for this adjustment in the pattern.


----------



## tamarque

beahop said:


> So, what you are saying is after I add on the stitches, I knit "back" to the previous stitch and pick up the loop left on from the last one I did. It's a little complicated for an old lady of 80 to "think". But we have ladies over 90's in our club who are doing very well on their projects. What can I say? Keep trying. Bea


If I understand you, yes. What was the first loop left on the needle is part of the new MS for which you are picking up the stitches. So when you knit back that last stitch from the last finished MS becomes part of the first row of the new MS. I know it is a bit confusing until you do it and see it working. Then it will come easily.


----------



## Bubba24

tamarque said:


> Did you adjust for the extra stitch on your MS leg? You are working with a 27 st MS? So you should be doing a K9, instead of K8. I see there needs to be an additional note for this adjustment in the pattern.


So should I still pick up 13 stitches?


----------



## beahop

Great! It's all coming together to make sense for me. Even when I look at the pictures, it was not clear on how to go back on the square after adding the cast on stitches. I have a complete package of pdf's on how to make MS or Domino squares. It is good to see that I can understand the lingo of knitting. By the way, what is a "gap" in knitting? I saw this on a pattern for the scarf of MS. Bea


----------



## beahop

Hm! If you added 13 and 13 + 1 you would get 27 sts. Isn't that what the pattern calls for? Hope you get it. Are you making a new MS for the 13 stitch pick up? Bea


----------



## Bubba24

tamarque said:


> Did you adjust for the extra stitch on your MS leg? You are working with a 27 st MS? So you should be doing a K9, instead of K8. I see there needs to be an additional note for this adjustment in the pattern.


Not sure what I did but I don't think it looks right to me. I did the middle triangle first (o) on the chart as the directions said. Pu 13 stitches, then knit 9 instead of 8

*Designer here*: yours is coming along beautifully. I see that the class is perking along . I think these jackets are wonderful. Good job Tanya!!


----------



## beahop

Hi,
It looks good to me. You did a nice job putting them together. Hope I do as well. I didn't even start. Seems I have a "craft" block. Nothing doing up there since my fall. But I am "collecting" information about the MS until I do. Bea


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> Not sure what I did but I don't think it looks right to me. I did the middle triangle first (o) on the chart as the directions said. Pu 13 stitches, then knit 9 instead of 8.


Why don't you think this is right?

It looks good to me. If you K8, it probably would also have worked but you did have the extra stitch on the MS leg. This is the flexibility we have here. When you do the upper corner, you should have a straight edge from the middle MS and the upper corner for the jacket opening. The I-cord edging and blocking should bring it all together.


----------



## tamarque

beahop said:


> Hi,
> It looks good to me. You did a nice job putting them together. Hope I do as well. I didn't even start. Seems I have a "craft" block. Nothing doing up there since my fall. But I am "collecting" information about the MS until I do. Bea


Sometimes injuries really shake us up and it takes time to heal. Using our brains is good exercise for that organ so keep up your good efforts. It is obvious that you love knitting.


----------



## tamarque

beahop said:


> Great! It's all coming together to make sense for me. Even when I look at the pictures, it was not clear on how to go back on the square after adding the cast on stitches. I have a complete package of pdf's on how to make MS or Domino squares. It is good to see that I can understand the lingo of knitting. By the way, what is a "gap" in knitting? I saw this on a pattern for the scarf of MS. Bea


Not sure exactly what your pattern was about, however, there sometimes is a gap in the corner when stitches are not picked up exactly in that corner when going from one MS to another.

Other times in knitting we are doing short rows and when we turn in the middle of the row there is a gap. For example we get this with socks when we have a short row heel. In those situations the gap helps us keep track of our place in the rows and then gets closed up later on.

Does this answer your question?


----------



## tamarque

Diane D said:


> im taking notes whilst working so when i can get a chance, i will start. also deciding what colours to use....


Remember the workshop notes will be kept in the KP Workshop files to go back to when you need. Glad you are enjoying following the process.


----------



## Bubba24

tamarque said:


> Why don't you think this is right?
> 
> It looks good to me. If you K8, it probably would also have worked but you did have the extra stitch on the MS leg. This is the flexibility we have here. When you do the upper corner, you should have a straight edge from the middle MS and the upper corner for the jacket opening. The I-cord edging and blocking should bring it all together.


Thanks Tanya,
Now I will continue.
Also thank you Bea.

Fran


----------



## beahop

I fell on my back and my head. It hurts a lot like a headache sometimes. But I'll "survive" as the song says.
Yes, I do love knitting and crocheting last. Just finished my 4th strip of grannies for my afghan. After the fifth is done, it will be time to seam them together and I'll be finished. You'll see it next week after it is complete. Bea


----------



## beahop

Yes, I do. It's the space created by yarn overs or skipping stitches as far as I can understand. The first explanation is more clearer then the 2nd. I don't do socks, so it never was a problem with turning in the middle of the item. If I skip a stitch in the MS, then there will be a gap. Bea


----------



## Bubba24

Hi Tanya. I just finished the middle and corner triangles. I had a hard time with them. I don't know why it took me 2 days to do 4 triangles. Typo error on right side middle triangle. It says "till 53 st on needle". 
I am measuring 29" across. I was making the size 5 but guess I am doing a size 6. Not sure how that happened since I measured each ms as I finished them. Really not a big deal since my GD is only 3 so it will fit her next year. Since the measurement is a size 6 I think I will pu 166 stitches. I'll see how that works out. Will post picture when I get started.
Enjoy Super Bowl
Fran


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> Hi Tanya. I just finished the middle and corner triangles. I had a hard time with them. I don't know why it took me 2 days to do 4 triangles. Typo error on right side middle triangle. It says "till 53 st on needle".
> I am measuring 29" across. I was making the size 5 but guess I am doing a size 6. Not sure how that happened since I measured each ms as I finished them. Really not a big deal since my GD is only 3 so it will fit her next year. Since the measurement is a size 6 I think I will pu 166 stitches. I'll see how that works out. Will post picture when I get started.
> Enjoy Super Bowl
> Fran


--------------------
Can you see the egg dripping on my face? 53 st on the needle! That was clearly a typo error. Will have to fix that one. Thanks for calling it to my attention. It should be 3 st on the needle.

*Designer here*- (Please pm me with the page, and the actual post and what you want corrected and I wil lput the correct information in for you -)
---------------------
Those corners are a bit different so each is a bit of a learning and it slows you down. But you got it now.

As for sizing: that is why I stressed watching he sizing of the MS. I think the garter stitch tends to stretch sideways when the weight of the project increases. It can be pulled back when we pick up for the top sections. However there is not that much difference betw the size 5 & 6. So you can make your choice easily as to which way to go. I would base it on how big the child is and how fast she is growing. Of course they go thru growth spurts that are unpredictable. If she is a size 5 now, then a 6 would hopefully get her all of next Fall-Spring to wear it.


----------



## tamarque

beahop said:


> I fell on my back and my head. It hurts a lot like a headache sometimes. But I'll "survive" as the song says.
> Yes, I do love knitting and crocheting last. Just finished my 4th strip of grannies for my afghan. After the fifth is done, it will be time to seam them together and I'll be finished. You'll see it next week after it is complete. Bea


I don't want to digress from our workshop knitting here, but it you want to PM me, I might have some suggestions for your head injury. I know a bit about them.


----------



## Designer1234

*ATTENTION TAMARQUE *- Would you check and tell me what workshop page needs to be corrected. I haven't been able to find it. Just post it here - I couldn't find it on # 7, 8 or 9 - but I might have missed it. Once I know where it is on the workshop; I will correct it. Shirley

I aam on Pacific Western Time zone so you will be up before me . Once I get up I will check this out and if you have left me an answer I will change pattern. (It i nearly midnight where you are and nearly 9 pm. here.


----------



## tamarque

Designer1234 said:


> *ATTENTION TAMARQUE *- Would you check and tell me what workshop page needs to be corrected. I haven't been able to find it. Just post it here - I couldn't find it on # 7, 8 or 9 - but I might have missed it. Once I know where it is on the workshop; I will correct it. Shirley
> 
> I aam on Pacific Western Time zone so you will be up before me . Once I get up I will check this out and if you have left me an answer I will change pattern. (It i nearly midnight where you are and nearly 9 pm. here.


It is the pattern section for *Right Side Middle Triangle*. Next to last line says there are 53 stitches on the needle. Should say 3 stitches.

What workshop page is it on here in the workshop???

It is our policy to only make changes on the quoted workshop page. We have had problems correcting and have had some really confusing times so we now ask for the

Workshop Page, the # of paragraph from the top and the word or number change.


----------



## Bubba24

Hi Tanya
I am up to adding on the stitches for the button band. Just need to decide which colors and how many rows I want to do. Might do the body of sweater in one color and sleeves in another color. Decisions, decisions. Will post a picture sometime today.
Fran


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> Hi Tanya
> I am up to adding on the stitches for the button band. Just need to decide which colors and how many rows I want to do. Might do the body of sweater in one color and sleeves in another color. Decisions, decisions. Will post a picture sometime today.
> Fran


Have been wondering how you were making out. Sounds like you are doing well. The top of the sweater does lend itself to different color combos. Now here I go complicating things. One vision I have is striping the sleeves with all those great colors and making the cuffs the same color as the body and the color a different collar. Of course this is your project and your choice. Just meddling here--you can ignore and I won't feel hurt😊


----------



## Bubba24

I was thinking making the sleeves in stripe with the colors. The body I did about 4 rows in the multi color just to break it up and now started with the darker green. I was thinking of doing the button band in the color that I would do the cuff but then that is making it more complicated for me. I really don't like changing colors. But it will be a surprise.....for me and you. Never know.
Fran


----------



## Designer1234

*It looks as if it is in your pattern, not printed on the workshop. You will have to do the correction*. I have looked all over the workshop and can't find any thing close to what you need changed. Light bulb just went on -- It will have to be changed IN THE PATTERN, NOT ON THE WORKSHOP.


----------



## Bubba24

Hi Tanya,
I casted on for the button band on both sides which was about 8.5" from the bottom of sweater. It says knit 2 ridges (4 rows) and begin button holes. How many button holes am I making? Or does it just depend on how long I make the bottom section? It says place button holes 7/8 ridges which would be about every 16 rows. Am I figuring that right? 
Thanks,
Fran


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> Hi Tanya,
> I casted on for the button band on both sides which was about 8.5" from the bottom of sweater. It says knit 2 ridges (4 rows) and begin button holes. How many button holes am I making? Or does it just depend on how long I make the bottom section? It says place button holes 7/8 ridges which would be about every 16 rows. Am I figuring that right?
> Thanks,
> Fran


Sounds right. I just remeasured my model. My buttonband is 7". It is the depth of the armhole plus the additional length below that armhole. Knowing the gauge for your rows, you can figure out how many rows will be needed. This can be divided by the number of buttonholes you want. I lay it out on paper to ensure my math and buttonhole placement is where I want it to be. You might want to allow 3 or 4 ridges on the bottom before the first buttonhole. It depends on how low you want the closure to begin. I hope that is clear.


----------



## beahop

Thanks for the encouragement. I really need it. Seems I have vertigo since my fall. It's always that I am falling forward to a wall or a counter. Thanks for that, or I'd fall on the floor.
At this time, I am watching You tube to understand the joining the MS and printing hard copy for reading later. Got my yarns together ready to go into a bag for this project. Bea


----------



## tamarque

beahop said:


> Thanks for the encouragement. I really need it. Seems I have vertigo since my fall. It's always that I am falling forward to a wall or a counter. Thanks for that, or I'd fall on the floor.
> At this time, I am watching You tube to understand the joining the MS and printing hard copy for reading later. Got my yarns together ready to go into a bag for this project. Bea


What is that adage: Slow and Steady wins the race?


----------



## Bubba24

Hi everyone.
Here is my sweater so far. I did one button hole so far and a few more rows until the next button hole. Looks like it is knitting up somewhat bigger than I thought it should be. My gauge was right as I measured every ms when I did them. But better bigger than too small.
Where is everyone? Would love to see pictures of your work.
Fran


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> Hi everyone.
> Here is my sweater so far. I did one button hole so far and a few more rows until the next button hole. Looks like it is knitting up somewhat bigger than I thought it should be. My gauge was right as I measured every ms when I did them. But better bigger than too small.
> Where is everyone? Would love to see pictures of your work.
> Fran


You truly are moving right along there Fran. Wonderful. Have you begun the raglan decreases?


----------



## eshlemania

Looks great, Fran!!


----------



## Bubba24

tamarque said:


> You truly are moving right along there Fran. Wonderful. Have you begun the raglan decreases?


The sweater looks larger in the pictures then it actually is. The raglan is for the sleeves right? I am not up to that yet.
I went to walmart today and measured a sweatshirt for approx measurements. They had no sweaters that is why I used a sweatshirt. Also they only had a size 4/5. But I just wanted an idea of how long to make it. 
For a size 4/5 the measurements were length- 16", sleeves 16", around the chest part was about 24".


----------



## MissMelba

That is going to look so cute Fran.


----------



## jscaplen

Bubba24 said:


> ...Here is my sweater so far....


Great job!


----------



## Bubba24

Thank you everyone. Now let me see your sweater. Please.


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> The sweater looks larger in the pictures then it actually is. The raglan is for the sleeves right? I am not up to that yet.
> I went to walmart today and measured a sweatshirt for approx measurements. They had no sweaters that is why I used a sweatshirt. Also they only had a size 4/5. But I just wanted an idea of how long to make it.
> For a size 4/5 the measurements were length- 16", sleeves 16", around the chest part was about 24".


The dimensions I used in the pattern for a size 4/5 are 8.5" from bottom to armhole and 5.5" for armhole depth. This does not include the .5-.75" for the I-cord edging. Total length should be about 14-15." Size 6 can easily be 16" long. Sleeves are 11" for size 4/5 and 12" for size 6 with an armhole depth of 6." It is fine to make them long and fold back the cuff to allow for growth. The sweatshirt you measured sounds like it was cut very full. But again, children grow so fast and are so individual in their growth rates. Last time I saw my gd who was just past age 4, she was wearing size 6 polo shirts but her legs were still on the shorter side.


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> Thank you everyone. Now let me see your sweater. Please.


Yes, Fran, you have so good sharing your progress along the way. Others should not be shy about showing their progress. Are people just working slowly?


----------



## Bubba24

tamarque said:


> The dimensions I used in the pattern for a size 4/5 are 8.5" from bottom to armhole and 5.5" for armhole depth. This does not include the .5-.75" for the I-cord edging. Total length should be about 14-15." Size 6 can easily be 16" long. Sleeves are 11" for size 4/5 and 12" for size 6 with an armhole depth of 6." It is fine to make them long and fold back the cuff to allow for growth. The sweatshirt you measured sounds like it was cut very full. But again, children grow so fast and are so individual in their growth rates. Last time I saw my gd who was just past age 4, she was wearing size 6 polo shirts but her legs were still on the shorter side.


Tanya,
When you say 8.5 from the bottom, do you mean from where you are adding on x number of stitches for the top of the sweater or from the bottom of the ms?


----------



## beahop

Hi everybody,
From what I am reading, it's likes she's talking about the bottom hem line to the top. Hope I'm not misleading the pattern directions. Bea


----------



## Normaedern

Bubba24 said:


> Hi everyone.
> Here is my sweater so far. I did one button hole so far and a few more rows until the next button hole. Looks like it is knitting up somewhat bigger than I thought it should be. My gauge was right as I measured every ms when I did them. But better bigger than too small.
> Where is everyone? Would love to see pictures of your work.
> Fran


Great to see. Looking really good. I haven't got very far this week as I have had one of those weeks! I will post when I have done some more.


----------



## Bubba24

Hi Tanya,
Ok. I am confused. Am I supposed to stop working on the main part of the sweater and start the sleeves on seperate needles? I see you say you can work on both sleeve at the same time. Are they worked straight or in the round?
I think I might have gone too far so I have to take out a few rows. Looks like according to the picture the sleeves start at the button band.
Fran


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> Tanya,
> When you say 8.5 from the bottom, do you mean from where you are adding on x number of stitches for the top of the sweater or from the bottom of the ms?


From the bottom of the sweater MS panel to the armhole beginning.

The button band started about 1" below the armhole, when the bottom was 7". I will say it is not that critical. This is a design feature that can be adjusted to your preference. I wanted the buttons to start about waist level which I think most parents would like for warmth.


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> Hi Tanya,
> Ok. I am confused. Am I supposed to stop working on the main part of the sweater and start the sleeves on seperate needles? I see you say you can work on both sleeve at the same time. Are they worked straight or in the round?
> I think I might have gone too far so I have to take out a few rows. Looks like according to the picture the sleeves start at the button band.
> Fran


When you get to the beginning of the armhole, set the body aside and start the 2 sleeves. When the sleeves reach their proper length, you will be picking up the sleeve stitches on your circular needle at the point of the armhole.

In other words, you will divide the body for the 2 front sections and the back section. The armhole stitches are put on a scrap of yarn or stitch holder, your preference. The sleeves are knit to their length measured from the underarm. Once they are knit, you knit the front, add 1 sleeve, knit the back, add the 2nd sleeve, then knit the 2nd front section. In the meantime you will be paying attention to the button band and the location of the button holes. Connecting the sleeves is an awkward process and you may want to add some DPN's for working around the sleeves until you get a few rows completed above the armhole. I used my circular with a magic loop process to get around the sleeves as DPN's annoy me, but you may prefer that method.

Does this clarify for you?

You remain working on the circular needle as this is a raglan so the sleeves


----------



## Bubba24

So the sleeves are worked in the round? I just son't get how I can do both sleeves at the same time in the round.


----------



## Bubba24

Bubba24 said:


> So the sleeves are worked in the round? I just son't get how I can do both sleeves at the same time in the round.


That should be " I just don't".


----------



## tamarque

Fran--don't think I answered your question about the needles for the sleeves. I used circulars and did 2-at-a-time. Of course you don't have to do it this way. But using circulars or DPNs, your preference, will avoid a seam on the sleeve.

But the sleeves need to be done before the raglan begins.

The sweater is designed as a seamless pattern.


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> That should be " I just don't".


Got me again (LOL)!

But I hope you do.


----------



## Bubba24

tamarque said:


> Got me again (LOL)!
> 
> But I hope you do.


That was my mis spelling not yours. Lol


----------



## Bubba24

tamarque said:


> Fran--don't think I answered your question about the needles for the sleeves. I used circulars and did 2-at-a-time. Of course you don't have to do it this way. But using circulars or DPNs, your preference, will avoid a seam on the sleeve.
> 
> But the sleeves need to be done before the raglan begins.
> 
> The sweater is designed as a seamless pattern.


I'll have to watch you tube on knitting 2 at-a-time for the sleeves. And then possibly take a few rows out on the sweater part. Think I will put it to bed tonight and do it tomorrow.


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> I'll have to watch you tube on knitting 2 at-a-time for the sleeves. And then possibly take a few rows out on the sweater part. Think I will put it to bed tonight and do it tomorrow.


You don't have to do 2-at-a-time. Of course if you want to learn that technique, go for it. Sock knitting people talk about 2nd sock syndrome--you finish one and groan at starting the second one. So doing both at the same time on a circular needle helps deal with this syndrome. My experience is that it is a good technique for ensuring both pieces are exactly the same length and, of course, when you get to the end, both parts are completed. On the negative side I find it takes me longer to knit that way and you need to be careful of your yarn balls to avoid them getting too twisted which is part of the extra time--keeping them apart. There are some simple tactics for doing this but it does take getting used to.

I tend to give too much information so is this feels like overload just save the links for later when you want to do some exploration of knitting skills. But in case you want to see what it looks like here are some links:

http://www.knitandtonic.net/knitandtonic/2009/11/knitting-two-socks-at-a-time-getting-started.html 
(written instructions)

Liat Gat video: 





Here is one that uses 2 circular needles to knit 2 at a time





Take a look to see if you want to try this technique now of save the links for later when you have the time to try the method.


----------



## Bubba24

Senior moment here. When I do socks I do the toes on 2 circular needles. 
Have to watch the videos on 2 at at time for the sleeves. Might have to make a trip to the yarn store for the needles. Poor me.


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> Senior moment here. When I do socks I do the toes on 2 circular needles.
> Have to watch the videos on 2 at at time for the sleeves. Might have to make a trip to the yarn store for the needles. Poor me.


It's okay. We can get so hooked into a particular idea that we forget the general principle which can be applied to other things. My senior moments with words makes me crazy at times.


----------



## beahop

Hi,
How about a senior "hour"? I get it all the time. But always at night and need a few zzzzz's. Bea


----------



## Bubba24

Just got back from my LYS and got the needles I need to do both sleeves at the same time. Now to watch the videos on how to cast on for the sleeves. I think I am pretty sure how to do the rest. Do you think the sleeves would be ok if I did the cuff in a rib? My GD doesn't like anything too loose around her wrist. Go figure, 3 years old.
But before I do anything I have to go "hide" the yarn I bought. You really didn't think I went to a LYS and just bought needles? Like I needed more yarn.
Fran


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> Just got back from my LYS and got the needles I need to do both sleeves at the same time. Now to watch the videos on how to cast on for the sleeves. I think I am pretty sure how to doe the rest. Do you think the sleeves would be ok if I did the cuff in a rib? My GD doesn't like anything too loose around her wrist. Go figure, 3 years old.
> But before I do anything I have to go "hide" the yarn I bought. You really didn't think I went to a LYS and just bought needles? Like I needed more yarn.
> Fran


I don't see why you can't do a ribbed cuff. No pattern is sacrosanct and can be customized to your need.

Glad you 'got' the sleeve segment of the pattern. And glad you found the needles you needed. Of course you got more yarn; it is part of the knitting experience--right!


----------



## beahop

He he, of course you brought yarn. So would I if I had a lys near by. I only have Walmart, A.C. Moore and Michael's to get mine.
Wish there was one so I can go and chat with other ladies there.
There isn't anyone who can advise me in department stores. And the clerks at the last 2 stores are too busy stocking shelves or taking money. Just don't have patience anymore. Bea


----------



## eshlemania

Bubba24 said:


> Just got back from my LYS and got the needles I need to do both sleeves at the same time. Now to watch the videos on how to cast on for the sleeves. I think I am pretty sure how to do the rest. Do you think the sleeves would be ok if I did the cuff in a rib? My GD doesn't like anything too loose around her wrist. Go figure, 3 years old.
> But before I do anything I have to go "hide" the yarn I bought. You really didn't think I went to a LYS and just bought needles? Like I needed more yarn.
> Fran


:thumbup: :thumbup:


----------



## tamarque

beahop said:


> He he, of course you brought yarn. So would I if I had a lys near by. I only have Walmart, A.C. Moore and Michael's to get mine.
> Wish there was one so I can go and chat with other ladies there.
> There isn't anyone who can advise me in department stores. And the clerks at the last 2 stores are too busy stocking shelves or taking money. Just don't have patience anymore. Bea


 That is a frustration. Second best is ordering online from places you can call and talk with a real person about the yarn. I have done this with places like WEBS and Elann or Knit Picks. The people in customer service have been so friendly and helpful in explaining their yarns or trying to help me figure out the differences in the yarns and even the colors at times--definitely a hard thing to do.


----------



## Bubba24

Hi Tanya,
Just did my cuffs 2 at a time on 2 circulars. I did the cuffs in ribbing. I just noticed 1 needle I knit and did not do ribbing. But that mistake is now my design element. I am afraid if I try to fix it I will really confuse myself and rip out and start over. 
Now I am going to change colors and start on the main sleeve. My question is when knitting on 2 circulars in the round how do I do stockinet stitch? Do I purl all rounds? 
Fran


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> Hi Tanya,
> Just did my cuffs 2 at a time on 2 circulars. I did the cuffs in ribbing. I just noticed 1 needle I knit and did not do ribbing. But that mistake is now my design element. I am afraid if I try to fix it I will really confuse myself and rip out and start over.
> Now I am going to change colors and start on the main sleeve. My question is when knitting on 2 circulars in the round how do I do stockinet stitch? Do I purl all rounds?
> Fran


When I work in the round I always knit the RS which is facing me. Remember the sleeves are SS, not garter so the RS is always facing you.

I think this is the first pic that the mint shows true. Mint was always a favorite color of mine.


----------



## Bubba24

I must have done something wrong because if I knit it looks like it is coming out like garter stitch. I am using 2 circulars and both sleeves at the same time. Cast on like the video showed, then split the stitches onto the 2 needles. My working yarn is on the front needle as showed in video. I would feel more comfortable if the yarn was on the back needle and I think it would come out SS. I really would hate to take it out but I will have to if it is not right. Right side is facing me. 
Fran


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> I must have done something wrong because if I knit it looks like it is coming out like garter stitch. I am using 2 circulars and both sleeves at the same time. Cast on like the video showed, then split the stitches onto the 2 needles. My working yarn is on the front needle as showed in video. I would feel more comfortable if the yarn was on the back needle and I think it would come out SS. I really would hate to take it out but I will have to if it is not right. Right side is facing me.
> Fran


I am trying to figure out what you have. I just watched several videos to try and understand what may be happening with you. It was interesting to me that several of the videos have the yarn coming from the front needle and some from the back, which is how I do it. If you have the yarn coming from the front needle you would still knit on the back side of the tube if you follow Cat Bordhi's style, for example.

If this is what is going on, can you turn the sleeve inside out and bring the knit side to the face? Would that feel more comfortable for you?


----------



## Bubba24

Never thought of turning the sleeve inside out. This is new to me. I will try that and see if it works. Will let you know. I thought the working yarn should be on the back needle. I did follow one of the videos you posted and her yarn was on the front needle. That worked fine for the ribbing of the cuff although it was a little clumsy for me.
Fran


----------



## tamarque

Question: What is different for you doing the sleeves on 2 circulars than doing socks?


----------



## Bubba24

tamarque said:


> Question: What is different for you doing the sleeves on 2 circulars than doing socks?


I do socks 1 at a time on 9" circulars. I only do the toes, 1 sock at a time on 2 circulars, 9"&12". But that is just the toes. 
I turned the sleeves inside out and that is working. My working yarn is on the back needle. So doing much better. I will post a picture after I do a few more rows.
Fran


----------



## Bubba24

This is how I do my socks.


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> This is how I do my socks.


Same for me.


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> I do socks 1 at a time on 9" circulars. I only do the toes, 1 sock at a time on 2 circulars, 9"&12". But that is just the toes.
> I turned the sleeves inside out and that is working. My working yarn is on the back needle. So doing much better. I will post a picture after I do a few more rows.
> Fran


Have been thinking about this problem, so very glad this suggestion worked for you.


----------



## Bubba24

My sleeves are working out pretty good. I am using 2 circulars, one is 24" and the other is 32". The woman in the yarn store said it would be better because I could easily tell which is the front and back needle. Once I got used to it I seem to be doing ok. I am really enjoying doing the sleeves. 
Getting a little nervous about attaching the sleeves but not going to worry about it right now because I quite a ways to go.
Fran


----------



## beahop

I see you are using 9 inch circular needles, but how are you able to knit the stitches so close? It looks like you are knitting right on top of the last stitch you finished. I was thinking of doing a hat for a child with this same # needle. Maybe now I can. I was going to buy a loom because I saw a lady using one in the waiting room of a doctor's office. Please explain how you had room to knit the following stitches. Bea


----------



## tamarque

beahop said:


> I see you are using 9 inch circular needles, but how are you able to knit the stitches so close? It looks like you are knitting right on top of the last stitch you finished. I was thinking of doing a hat for a child with this same # needle. Maybe now I can. I was going to buy a loom because I saw a lady using one in the waiting room of a doctor's office. Please explain how you had room to knit the following stitches. Bea


Bea--Fran is using 2 needles that are much longer: 24" & 32" Plenty long to work 2-at-a-time with 2 balls of yarn going at once. She is doing this to avoid confusing the needles and picking up the wrong one. This can be a problem if you don't pay attention--something I admit to be guilty of in the past. You can also use different color needles or different materials. Anything that will catch your attention so you dont work the wrong one.

Even on a hat I use these longer lengths and it is very comfortable working that way.


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> My sleeves are working out pretty good. I am using 2 circulars, one is 24" and the other is 32". The woman in the yarn store said it would be better because I could easily tell which is the front and back needle. Once I got used to it I seem to be doing ok. I am really enjoying doing the sleeves.
> Getting a little nervous about attaching the sleeves but not going to worry about it right now because I quite a ways to go.
> Fran


Looking good. And once you reach the end of the sleeves that will be done and on to the next section of the sweater. There is so much going on with this project that it made me feel good when one section was done and I didn't have to go back and do it again as with a second sleeve.


----------



## beahop

Hi,
Thank you for clearing up the confusion. I would use longer needles for my projects no matter what they are. Just that she got me puzzled when she mentioned the size. Bea


----------



## beahop

beahop said:


> Hi,
> Thank you for clearing up the confusion. I would use longer needles for my projects no matter what they are. Just that she got me puzzled when she mentioned the size. Bea[/quote.
> I was referring to Bubba's post by the way.


----------



## Bubba24

The 9" circular needle I use for socks. The picture of my 2 sleeves are on 2 different size circulars. As Tanya pointed out I am using a 24" and a 32" so I don't get confused. Also I make sure when I am done knitting for the night I lay my needles down with the working yarn in the back and the working yarn is on the right. Hope this makes sense, but it works for me.
Fran


----------



## beahop

Hi Bubba,
Thank you for explaining the work on the #9inch needle for sock toes. But everyone does his thing his way, right. Some can't handle 2 circ. needles at one time, even in different sizes. We could get very confused at first, but then it all comes together. Bea


----------



## tamarque

I remember how exciting it was to learn there are so many ways to cast on/off, to hold the yarn, the choices we have in choosing our needles for size and material, etc. Knitting became so much richer an experience when its world opened up for me. It does take some time exploring all these possibilities but is never boring.


----------



## tamarque

Just want to encourage any readers to jump in and ask your questions or share your knitting experience with this project. You know how knitters love to show and tell--and share.


----------



## Bubba24

I will post my sleeves tomorrow night. Not much knitting done today. Hopefully tomorrow I can just sit and knit. So far so good with the sleeves. I probably will have lots of questions when I get the sleeves done. 
One question. Where is everyone?


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> I will post my sleeves tomorrow night. Not much knitting done today. Hopefully tomorrow I can just sit and knit. So far so good with the sleeves. I probably will have lots of questions when I get the sleeves done.
> One question. Where is everyone?


Good question. Hopefully working quietly and reading as we go.


----------



## Simone54

I have been away on vacation but now ready to start this interesting sweater. I Bought the pattern before I left/before the January 26th discount deadline. 

While on vacation, I thought I read that there had been an update of the pattern; cant find the posting now. Do I have the most recent pattern? Was there an update?

Any advice from those who are already knitting about your colour choices for this sweater? More variation? Less?


----------



## Simone54

Normaedern said:


> I am not finding any problems. The pattern is very clear. It took me a little time to figure out the engineering of attaching the MS but the was a "me" problem. Once the head had got it is is a breeze :thumbup:


Normaedern, love your yarn selection. Would you please share what you used?


----------



## Normaedern

Mgwg said:


> Normaedern, love your yarn selection. Would you please share what you used?


Yes, it is King Cole Yarn Zig Zag in Sunrise and Slate blue. I have mostly done the mitred squared part. I have had to leave it as a WIP as I needed to start some other projects but will start again a soon as I can. It will be easy to pick it up again as the pattern is clear. Good luck with yours. :thumbup:


----------



## tamarque

Mgwg said:


> I have been away on vacation but now ready to start this interesting sweater. I Bought the pattern before I left/before the January 26th discount deadline.
> 
> While on vacation, I thought I read that there had been an update of the pattern; cant find the posting now. Do I have the most recent pattern? Was there an update?
> 
> Any advice from those who are already knitting about your colour choices for this sweater? More variation? Less?


The update was on January 20. If you purchased after that you should have the update.

Hope your vacation was wonderful and glad you found your way back here. You might want to read thru the early pages when we talked about questions people had on the Miter Squares and how to size them and work them. I will reiterate, that gauge is critical in choosing the size of the project. But don't be shy to ask any questions. And do share pics as we all love them.


----------



## tamarque

Normaedern said:


> Yes, it is King Cole Yarn Zig Zag in Sunrise and Slate blue. I have mostly done the mitred squared part. I have had to leave it as a WIP as I needed to start some other projects but will start again a soon as I can. It will be easy to pick it up again as the pattern is clear. Good luck with yours. :thumbup:


So good to see you here again and for the pattern feedback. It is always a concern that what is in the head gets translated clearly to paper.


----------



## Simone54

tamarque said:


> The update was on January 20. If you purchased after that you should have the update.
> 
> I cant find the exact date that I purchased the pattern but it was purchased before we left on the 17th so, based on your reply, looks like I need the revised pattern. Please advise.


----------



## tamarque

Mgwg said:


> tamarque said:
> 
> 
> 
> The update was on January 20. If you purchased after that you should have the update.
> 
> I cant find the exact date that I purchased the pattern but it was purchased before we left on the 17th so, based on your reply, looks like I need the revised pattern. Please advise.
> 
> 
> 
> I have looked up the purchases on Ravelry but do not see your moniker Mgwg in the purchase list. Do you use a different email for Ravelry purchases? This occurred with another person who found the update in a different email account than her normal one.
> 
> Can you post me the email you used for Ravelry so I can check that the update was sent to you? If not I will find a way to get you the update. I know this technology stuff can be a bit trying at times.
Click to expand...


----------



## Bubba24

Hi Tanya
Just finished my increases on the sleeves. I have about 5" done so chugging
along to get to 11". Hopefully will post tonight. I think it is coming along pretty good.
Fran


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> Hi Tanya
> Just finished my increases on the sleeves. I have about 5" done so chugging
> along to get to 11". Hopefully will post tonight. I think it is coming along pretty good.
> Fran


Great going. Make sure the sleeve width is sufficient for your size. I measure constantly when I work to keep track of my sizing.


----------



## Simone54

I am making the sample miter square. I have completed a right side/decease row and now have 3 stitches on the needle. My question is...do I complete another wrong side row AND then the final decrease OR do I proceed directly to the final decrease?


----------



## tamarque

Mgwg said:


> I am making the sample miter square. I have completed a right side/decease row and now have 3 stitches on the needle. My question is...do I complete another wrong side row AND then the final decrease OR do I proceed directly to the final decrease?


Yes, you do. The process goes till you have 1 stitch left. The last decrease row begins with a Sl purlwise WYIF, Sl knitwise, K1 and Pass the the 2 slipped stitches over the K st.


----------



## Simone54

tamarque said:


> Yes, you do. The process goes till you have 1 stitch left. The last decrease row begins with a Sl purlwise WYIF, Sl knitwise, K1 and Pass the the 2 slipped stitches over the K st.[/quote
> 
> Just to be clear, I knit another wrong side row then then final decrease row, is that right?


----------



## Simone54

My sample MS measure 3.25 inches both ways. I want to make a size 3 which requires 7 MSs so, doing the math, My sweater will only be 22.75. I dont want to reknit my MS with bigger needles, shall I try casting on 27 stitches?


----------



## Simone54

Mgwg said:


> My sample MS measure 3.25 inches both ways. I want to make a size 3 which requires 7 MSs so, doing the math, My sweater will only be 22.75. I dont want to reknit my MS with bigger needles, shall I try casting on 27 stitches?


My 27 stitch MS measures 3.4 inches which I am assuming is 'close enough'. Starting on the 2nd MS


----------



## tamarque

Mgwg said:


> My sample MS measure 3.25 inches both ways. I want to make a size 3 which requires 7 MSs so, doing the math, My sweater will only be 22.75. I dont want to reknit my MS with bigger needles, shall I try casting on 27 stitches?


Yes. If you read the early pages of this workshop there are a number of notes on working samples with different size needles or number of stitches in order to get the correct width. Since it is not easy to add width once the miters are done in this pattern, it is very important to take the time to do samples for correct gauge. But they are pretty simple and quick to do and provide good practice.


----------



## beahop

Hi,
I'm wondering if I can make a top down sweater with the MS squares knitted after I reach midway to the armhole and attach more MS after that. Wouldn't that be interesting? Bea


----------



## tamarque

beahop said:


> Hi,
> I'm wondering if I can make a top down sweater with the MS squares knitted after I reach midway to the armhole and attach more MS after that. Wouldn't that be interesting? Bea


Actually I have thought about that, too. If you did that you be putting the sleeve stitches on holders to be knit after the body was completed. The body does come down below the armhole level and the button band has to be figured in, too. Once again, knitting is not sacrosanct and part of the fun is adapting patterns to your own needs and interest. The MS tho, I think, should be knit into the panel as per pattern instructions. You will have some kind of seam to deal with but if that is your druthers, give it a whirl and keep us informed of your venture.

The mandarin collar in the pattern is knit continuously from the body. Doing it top down would require the collar to be picked up afterwards. You could begin with a provisional cast on at the neck and then go back to do the collar and avoid a seam.

Out of curiosity, why do you want to knit the miter square panel after the top is done? Do you want to try and create an integral connection? That is something I have been playing with and do have a way to do that but the triangle modules would have to follow a different technique. This would be too confusing to write up at this point.

Just some thoughts to play with.


----------



## beahop

Hi,
Glad to hear that also you would try to knit from the top.
I really don't do button holes or buttons. I would do snaps underneath after I finished the sweater.
The sleeves would be done like you said after the body was done.
Since the triangles have a straight edge at the top, it's a good way to start the MS from the top. Just make the MS like you would anyway and add the triangles, but you have to reverse it in order to connect them from the top. Do you understand?
Make the MS strip of triangles and attach them to the body like I said with a special knitting technique like you do for socks. Not sure of the name of it. Bea


----------



## Bubba24

I'm still here. Taking me forever to do the sleeves, but at least they will be done at the same time. Last 2 days didn't do much knitting on the sweater. Had to get my Valentine socks done. Now I am back to the sweater.
Fran


----------



## tamarque

beahop said:


> Hi,
> Glad to hear that also you would try to knit from the top.
> I really don't do button holes or buttons. I would do snaps underneath after I finished the sweater.
> The sleeves would be done like you said after the body was done.
> Since the triangles have a straight edge at the top, it's a good way to start the MS from the top. Just make the MS like you would anyway and add the triangles, but you have to reverse it in order to connect them from the top. Do you understand?
> Make the MS strip of triangles and attach them to the body like I said with a special knitting technique like you do for socks. Not sure of the name of it. Bea


The button bands have a 1" overlap so lots of room for doing snaps. Maybe a decorative button for show on the face of the sweater

As for the MS--no not quite understanding your concept. You would have redesign the miter triangles; they don't just do a reverse knitting. I think you should follow the pattern on this and do the whole panel with the triangles. Then pick up the stitches for the top and do a couple of rows. Then you can seam the top to the bottom--3 needle bind off or grafting or a mattress stitch.


----------



## beahop

Hi,
Thanks for that word. Grafting. I'm o.k. for thinking the way you are saying. But I had a dream of what I was doing in the top down. Awesome vision. The pattern shows that the triangles have a straight line across after they are attached. That's the last row for the MS panel. I can even omit the sleeves and make a vest instead. I hate sleeves anyway. The child can wear layered clothes this way. Like a shirt or blouse underneath. Bea
P.S. I'm not trying to be "stubborn", just adventurous.


----------



## Bubba24

Done for the night. My sleeves at this point are about 7" long. They are 11" around. So far right on target.
Fran


----------



## sisu

I am finally settled into my new house and have a space to sit and knit again! So I am back to adding mitered squares together again Slow, but steady. I have just finished number 7, so have 2 columns now. I have definitely gotten better and faster at doing the squares! 
Fran, yours is looking super!


----------



## Bubba24

sisu said:


> I am finally settled into my new house and have a space to sit and knit again! So I am back to adding mitered squares together again Slow, but steady. I have just finished number 7, so have 2 columns now. I have definitely gotten better and faster at doing the squares!
> Fran, yours is looking super!


Thank you sisu. Congrats on your new house. Once I got going on the squares it went pretty fast.


----------



## tamarque

beahop said:


> Hi,
> Thanks for that word. Grafting. I'm o.k. for thinking the way you are saying. But I had a dream of what I was doing in the top down. Awesome vision. The pattern shows that the triangles have a straight line across after they are attached. That's the last row for the MS panel. I can even omit the sleeves and make a vest instead. I hate sleeves anyway. The child can wear layered clothes this way. Like a shirt or blouse underneath. Bea
> P.S. I'm not trying to be "stubborn", just adventurous.


Go for it but just make sure you share your creation here.

And yes, the top line of the MS panel is straight.

If you do the top part as a vest, how do you want to do the top. As a raglan you might be able to work in a cap sleeve. Or are you thinking of reshaping the top completely?


----------



## tamarque

sisu said:


> I am finally settled into my new house and have a space to sit and knit again! So I am back to adding mitered squares together again Slow, but steady. I have just finished number 7, so have 2 columns now. I have definitely gotten better and faster at doing the squares!
> Fran, yours is looking super!


So happy you made your way back here Caryn. I bet you are breathing a sigh of relief now that you have needles back in hand. All is right in the world😊

The MSs do go quicker as you are more familiar. And Fran's sweater is doing so great.


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## Simone54

3rd MS done...does it look ok? Seems to be going together well


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## Normaedern

Fran, your sleeves are looking good!


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## Normaedern

Mgwg said:


> 3rd MS done...does it look ok? Seems to be going together well


Those squares are very pretty. What yarn are you using?


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## tamarque

Mgwg said:


> 3rd MS done...does it look ok? Seems to be going together well


By jove, you've got it!
Looking very good. Nice colorway what yarn are you using and what size sweater?


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## tamarque

There is such a variety of yarns and color combos being used. I hope we can do a parade of sweaters when they are finished. Would people like to do that?


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## Bubba24

Mgwg said:


> 3rd MS done...does it look ok? Seems to be going together well


Love your squares. Great colors.


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## Bubba24

Normaedern said:


> Fran, your sleeves are looking good!


Thank you Norma. I have always done my sleeves 2 at a time but never in the round on 2 circulars. It took me some time to get used to doing them that way. I had a slight problem after I did the cuffs, but Tanya said to turn them inside out and off I went. Taking me a little longer but my both sleeves will be done and the same size.
Fran


----------



## Bubba24

tamarque said:


> There is such a variety of yarns and color combos being used. I hope we can do a parade of sweaters when they are finished. Would people like to do that?


Absolutely. With all the work and different color combos I think we should show off our work.
Fran


----------



## sisu

Mgwg said:


> 3rd MS done...does it look ok? Seems to be going together well


Looks great! Love the pretty colorway.


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## sisu

tamarque said:


> There is such a variety of yarns and color combos being used. I hope we can do a parade of sweaters when they are finished. Would people like to do that?


That would be fun. How long will the workshop be open for?


----------



## tamarque

sisu said:


> That would be fun. How long will the workshop be open for?


Hard to say how long Caryn. It seems that some people have started later than others so I would like to give them time to catch up and make sure they have the pattern ins and outs down. I am available and open as long as people feel the need.
Shirley tells me that it is up to me to decide.

Maybe I should ask how much time think is needed for this project?


----------



## Simone54

Progressing nicely. My goal for today is to finish the 7 columns for a size3. I am making this sweater for my 13 month old granddaughter - as long as it isnt too small, size isnt too much of an issue for me. 

The colourway is Happy Days. I had planned on using yarn from my stash but when I went to my LYS, they no longer carry it. I had to completely change my plan and restart with the sample MS work to say nothing of my poor hubbie waiting and waiting for me at the LYS. Note to self: dont say ' just a quick stop, dear, I wont be but 5 minutes'!


----------



## tamarque

Mgwg said:


> Progressing nicely. My goal for today is to finish the 7 columns for a size3. I am making this sweater for my 13 month old granddaughter - as long as it isnt too small, size isnt too much of an issue for me.
> 
> The colourway is Happy Days. I had planned on using yarn from my stash but when I went to my LYS, they no longer carry it. I had to completely change my plan and restart with the sample MS work to say nothing of my poor hubbie waiting and waiting for me at the LYS. Note to self: dont say ' just a quick stop, dear, I wont be but 5 minutes'!


Looking very good and you are moving along quite well. Are you using any other yarns for the top or sleeves or trim?

As for sizing--the smallest size in the pattern was a 3 but could work for a 2 also with some very minor adjustments perhaps--like sleeve length. I made my 2 yr size large so it would last thru an extra year. I also checked my dimensions as I worked to keep track of what I was doing. There are size charts in the pattern to let you know what to end was trying to look like. Hope they help.

Poor hubby? Would they wait if you said it would be a half hour😊


----------



## beahop

Hi,
I thought of reshaping the top as a straight top. Right now, it's just a thought. I have to get the pattern first and see what is written. Bea


----------



## beahop

Hi,
By the way, where do I go for the pattern? Wasn't it Ravelry? Bea


----------



## tamarque

beahop said:


> Hi,
> By the way, where do I go for the pattern? Wasn't it Ravelry? Bea


Yes, Ravelry. If you go the introduction of the workshop the link it there to take you direction to Ravelry. Let me know if you need help.


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## Bubba24

Well, I thought I would get my sleeves done today. They are only 10" long :-( 
At least tomorrow I will have both sleeves done and then hopefully figure out how to connect them to the sweater.
Stay warm and safe everyone.


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## beahop

Hi,
I cannot find the pattern for the Mitered sQuare Toddler's jacket on Ravelry. Did they stop doing it? How can I get it now? I have a picture of it, so maybe I'll just "invent" the pattern from a sweater pattern and add the squares later. Bea


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## Simone54

beahop said:


> Hi,
> I cannot find the pattern for the Mitered sQuare Toddler's jacket on Ravelry. Did they stop doing it? How can I get it now? I have a picture of it, so maybe I'll just "invent" the pattern from a sweater pattern and add the squares later. Bea


Just checked, it is there. Searched toddler mitered square sweater. http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/toddler-miter-square-sweater


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## beahop

Hi,
I finally got to pay for the pattern. Thanks for helping me get the link to order it. Maybe I didn't do it right. But it's done.


----------



## beahop

How do I download the pattern now that I "paid" for it. No instructions for it, except to put it in my library at Ravelry. Do you understand what they are talking about. Never got the confirmation in my e-mail yet. Guess I have to wait till Monday so they can cash the debit amount. Bea


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## tamarque

Mgwg said:


> Just checked, it is there. Searched toddler mitered square sweater. http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/toddler-miter-square-sweater


Thanks for posting the link for Beahop. The pattern will be on Ravelry for a long time.


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## tamarque

beahop said:


> How do I download the pattern now that I "paid" for it. No instructions for it, except to put it in my library at Ravelry. Do you understand what they are talking about. Never got the confirmation in my e-mail yet. Guess I have to wait till Monday so they can cash the debit amount. Bea


They should process the Pay Pal payment pretty quickly. You should get an email link to the pattern as well as find it in your Ravelry patterns. I will be gone for most of the day on Monday from about 9 am to 6 pm so will be available for any problems before or after that. But the Ravelry process seems to work pretty well.


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## Simone54

Just finishing the last column. As I am makinga size three, where do I measure the width ( supposed to be 24 inches; worried I might be over)


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## Simone54

Tamarque, you asked about the other colours- the main colour is yellow and I thought i would use blue for the icord


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## tamarque

Mgwg said:


> Just finishing the last column. As I am makinga size three, where do I measure the width ( supposed to be 24 inches; worried I might be over)


You measure the width as you would normally. The miter squares are diamond shaped so you would measure horizontally from point to point. What dimension are you getting across the panel?


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## tamarque

Mgwg said:


> Tamarque, you asked about the other colours- the main colour is yellow and I thought i would use blue for the icord


Nice. Good child centered cheery colors. I love knowing and seeing the colors that everyone choses. We are all so unique in our tastes.


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## Simone54

tamarque said:


> You measure the width as you would normally. The miter squares are diamond shaped so you would measure horizontally from point to point. What dimension are you getting across the panel?


I still need the last column - so, 6 column as show in the photo measure 21 inches...advice? Ok or no?


----------



## Bubba24

Finished the sleeves. Just have to decide if I will continue with the color of the sleeves onto the body or color of the body onto the sleeves. Next picture I post will be that of my sweater with the sleeves successfully attached or a cry out for help.
Fran


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## beahop

Hi,
I finally purchased the pattern at Ravelry via Visa card. Will I have a problem? Heard bad things about Pay Pal. Does Ravelry only accept pay pal payments? Bea


----------



## Simone54

Question about the placement of the 'last miter square'. Looking at the diagram of the 'order that MS are made', '20' is attached to the middle MS but, as I read the instructions, it looks like the last MS should be attached to 19. Can anyone help?

I am also not sure where to measure the width. Please see my posting at 0835 this morning.

I am also wondering for a size three if I should have made ONLY six columns ( each MS equals 3.5 inches x 6 = 21 inches + 3.5 (from the 2 half MSs - see ' O' and 'P') which equals 24.5 inches


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## beahop

Hi,
I did "not" pay by Pay Pal. I used my Visa card instead. Heard some bad things about Pay Pal, so I didn't want to have a problem. Bea


----------



## tamarque

Mgwg said:


> I still need the last column - so, 6 column as show in the photo measure 21 inches...advice? Ok or no?


trying to read your tape measure and not able to really see it. but your last ms would be attached to #18 and the top of it would be at the top of the panel even with #19. if the width is only 21" and you need 24" I would do another whole row with the single one at the end. it might be a bit wider than what you want, tho.

we do add an I-cord border that will be 3/4" but that still is short of the 24" so I would make the sweater larger than leave it small and not able to be worn at all. that would be very frustrating.


----------



## tamarque

Mgwg said:


> Question about the placement of the 'last miter square'. Looking at the diagram of the 'order that MS are made', '20' is attached to the middle MS but, as I read the instructions, it looks like the last MS should be attached to 19. Can anyone help?
> 
> I am also not sure where to measure the width. Please see my posting at 0835 this morning.
> 
> I am also wondering for a size three if I should have made ONLY six columns ( each MS equals 3.5 inches x 6 = 21 inches + 3.5 (from the 2 half MSs - see ' O' and 'P') which equals 24.5 inches


The 1/2 MS do not add dimension; they are only fill ins which create straight edges.


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> Finished the sleeves. Just have to decide if I will continue with the color of the sleeves onto the body or color of the body onto the sleeves. Next picture I post will be that of my sweater with the sleeves successfully attached or a cry out for help.
> Fran


Well, I am back from the days frigid jaunt so can hear your calls for help.


----------



## Simone54

I am beginning to fill in the triangles and have a question about thr first RS row...should the doublr dec's be done? k3tog?


----------



## Simone54

Mgwg said:


> I am beginning to fill in the triangles and have a question about thr first RS row...should the doublr dec's be done? k3tog?


Answered this one myself


----------



## Simone54

I am doing the decreases for the top triangle...how do i proceed when I have 7 stitches left? After the slip 1 and K2tog...there arent enough stitches for the double drecrease


----------



## tamarque

Mgwg said:


> I am doing the decreases for the top triangle...how do i proceed when I have 7 stitches left? After the slip 1 and K2tog...there arent enough stitches for the double drecrease


If you tell me how many stitches you picked up for the triangle I can try to check it out from my end


----------



## Simone54

Further to my question about how to decrease when I am at 7 stitches, I am working with a total of 27 stitches


----------



## tamarque

Mgwg said:


> Further to my question about how to decrease when I am at 7 stitches, I am working with a total of 27 stitches


Ah, forgot you were doing 27 st. The pattern was written with 25 st. You can finish he triangle with 7 left on the needle. The idea is to have the triangles fill in the spaces betw the full MSs. At this point you should have the space filled in so the there is a level line that is created along the top edge. Hope this helps.


----------



## tamarque

Mgwg said:


> Further to my question about how to decrease when I am at 7 stitches, I am working with a total of 27 stitches


Ah, forgot you were doing 27 st. The pattern was written with 25 st. You can finish he triangle with 7 left on the needle. The idea is to have the triangles fill in the spaces betw the full MSs. At this point you should have the space filled in so the there is a level line that is created along the top edge. If we decrease more we create a hump in the center of the triangle. If there is just a bit of a hump it will disappear when the stitches are picked up for the top of the sweater. Hope this helps.


----------



## tamarque

My Mystery dishcloth is showing a large 2 forming on the top and long vertical on the bottom in front of the 16. I think it may be a flag


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## tamarque

sorry--wrong post location.


----------



## Bubba24

I added the sleeves to the sweater. It was tough getting them attached but I got it. I think they are added right. Now the next step is raglan decrease. For size 5 it says to knit 12 rows Before beginning decreases on yoke. So I should knit 12 rows. Then it says to knit until 61 stitches remain on needle. I am confused as to how and when to start the decreases.
Fran


----------



## Simone54

Well done Fran! And thanks for the photos - Inspiring and educational


----------



## jscaplen

Bubba24 said:


> I added the sleeves to the sweater. ...


Way to go! This is looking great.


----------



## Bubba24

Thanks. I am going to knit my 12 rows and wait for Tanya because I am confused about when to start the decrease. Must remember to do the button holes.
Fran


----------



## Normaedern

Fran, that is wonderful. Congratulations :thumbup:


----------



## sisu

Wow Fran, that looks great!


----------



## Bubba24

The sleeves were difficult for me to attach but I got them on. So far coming along pretty good.
Fran


----------



## Simone54

Bubba24 said:


> The sleeves were difficult for me to attach but I got them on. So far coming along pretty good.
> Fran


Why was it hard Fran?


----------



## Bubba24

Mgwg said:


> Why was it hard Fran?


It was probably just me. I did 2 sleeves on 2 circulars at the same time. I had to put each sleeve on its own needle to get them in the right position. Then it was awkward trying to knit the front and add the sleeves and just seemed very tight getting around the sleeve stitches. It got easier now that I am on the 5th row.
Fran


----------



## Simone54

Good to know Fran...something to look forward to . I am still working on half triangles..slow but sure


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> I added the sleeves to the sweater. It was tough getting them attached but I got it. I think they are added right. Now the next step is raglan decrease. For size 5 it says to knit 12 rows Before beginning decreases on yoke. So I should knit 12 rows. Then it says to knit until 61 stitches remain on needle. I am confused as to how and when to start the decreases.
> Fran


It looks perfect. It is such a strange looking thing at this stage because the sleeves are on their own circular getting attached to another body. It will level out tho. If you look at p.10 of the pattern you will see that mine looks like yours--pretty awkward.

Now for the long part, so be patient:

First, on p.11 there is a chart for how many rows to knit garter before beginning the raglan decreases for each size. 12 Rows, Fran are 6 ridges in garter. Your sleeves are on the body and you have worked them into the body.

Next: I think there is a line missing in the pattern which I will correct in the pattern and send out an update to everyone. It seems to have disappeared in one of the revisions and I missed it when proof reading. My apologies.

Raglan Decreases:

RS facing, Knit to 3 st before the end of the front sweater section, K2tog, k1, PM, (beginning next sleeve section) K1, K2tog.

Repeat by knitting across to 3 st before the end of this first sleeve, K2tog, K1, PM, (begin back) K1, K2tog.

Knit across back to 3 st before end of back, K2tog, k1, PM, (begin 2nd sleeve) K1, K2tog.

Knit across 2nd sleeve to last 3 st. K2tog, K1, PM (begin 2nd front) K1, K2tog and knit across 2nd front.

Remember decreases are only on the RS and there is 1 decrease for the front sections and 2 decreases for each sleeve and 2 for the back. You will continue decreasing until you reach the number of stitches as in the chart at bottom of P.11. Pay attention to the charts on P.11 and P.12 which guide you thru all dimensions and number of stitches for each section.

Fran--I am sorry to say that being further along that others, you are my spider catching the fly. So thanks for being a brave soul here. You are really doing great.

Remember that you may want to work with a longer circular cord or use DPNs while you are working around the sleeves for a few rows. It is awkward but this will work. Just toss out a few expletives, take some deep breathes and think how great this will look when finished.


----------



## Bubba24

I did have to change to longer circulars. It is much easier now. I am on row 5 of the 12 rows before I start to decrease. Going to SC for a kinda family reunion and surprise 40th bd party for my son. Seven of my grandchildren will be there so not sure how much knitting will get done. 
Thanks for posting about the decreases. Thought I was miss reading something.
Fran


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> I did have to change to longer circulars. It is much easier now. I am on row 5 of the 12 rows before I start to decrease. Going to SC for a kinda family reunion and surprise 40th bd party for my son. Seven of my grandchildren will be there so not sure how much knitting will get done.
> Thanks for posting about the decreases. Thought I was miss reading something.
> Fran


No, it was me. There will be an updated pattern later today. Just corrected the pattern but have to leave for a few hours so later today there will be something official sent to everyone.

Have a great b'day party with son and family. Hope your weather is better than up north.


----------



## tamarque

Mgwg said:


> Good to know Fran...something to look forward to . I am still working on half triangles..slow but sure


Please note there is a type on the right side Middle triangle. The pattern says 53 st remaining--not really; just 3. This correction will be in the updated pattern sending later today.


----------



## tamarque

Everyone please check to see that you receive the pattern update which I just sent out.


----------



## RosD

tamarque said:


> Everyone please check to see that you receive the pattern update which I just sent out.


Thank you Tanya, I received the update. 😀


----------



## tamarque

RosD said:


> Thank you Tanya, I received the update. 😀


Great. Need to know these technology efforts are really happening.


----------



## Simone54

Eleven more triangles to go &#128522;


----------



## Normaedern

Thank you. Tanya. I have received the update.


----------



## tamarque

Mgwg said:


> Eleven more triangles to go 😊


Moving right along very well. Such joyous colors.


----------



## beahop

Hi,
When you send me the pattern, will I also get an "update" in addition for it? Bea


----------



## tamarque

beahop said:


> Hi,
> When you send me the pattern, will I also get an "update" in addition for it? Bea


You will get the full updated pattern. The updates are the complete pattern with its revisions.


----------



## sisu

I got the update too - thanks Tanya. I'm up to the 6th column of ms. Looking forward to getting to the triangles! 
Mgwg yours is looking great! How many inches wide did it end up to be? Looks like you did 6 columns?


----------



## beahop

Hi Tanya,
Thanks for answering. I am sending you a check for $8.00 like I told you I would. If it wasn't so cold outside, I would have gotten a money order instead. Take care. Bea


----------



## Simone54

sisu said:


> I got the update too - thanks Tanya. I'm up to the 6th column of ms. Looking forward to getting to the triangles!
> Mgwg yours is looking great! How many inches wide did it end up to be? Looks like you did 6 columns?


Thanks Sisu. The measurement is 24 inches ...just like I planned.  My confusion was the instructions to knit 7 'MS sections' which I interpreted as the 1, 2 and 3 columns- if that makes sense to you. 
There sure is a lot of knitting in the MS and triangles which surprised me.


----------



## tamarque

Mgwg said:


> Thanks Sisu. The measurement is 24 inches ...just like I planned.  My confusion was the instructions to knit 7 'MS sections' which I interpreted as the 1, 2 and 3 columns- if that makes sense to you.
> There sure is a lot of knitting in the MS and triangles which surprised me.


The sweater is a big deceiving as the MS's are simple and small but there are a lot of them and they building of the panel has several different parts and techniques which makes it so interesting and fun to see come together. Can you feel the rhythm of it as you put it together?


----------



## tamarque

beahop said:


> Hi Tanya,
> Thanks for answering. I am sending you a check for $8.00 like I told you I would. If it wasn't so cold outside, I would have gotten a money order instead. Take care. Bea


I will watch for it. thanx


----------



## tamarque

Mgwg said:


> Eleven more triangles to go 😊


disregard--just repeating myself


----------



## Simone54

I am stuck on the side triangles. What does 'PU 1 st from MS 4' mean?


----------



## tamarque

Mgwg said:


> I am stuck on the side triangles. What does 'PU 1 st from MS 4' mean?


PU = pickup

so it says Pick Up 1 stitch from Miter Square 4.


----------



## Bubba24

Mgwg said:


> Eleven more triangles to go 😊


Looks great. I love the colors.
Fran


----------



## Simone54

Question...working on the side triangle...pickup 13 stitches and now ready to work the WS row. The directions only account for 12 stitches...please advise re the 13th stitch.

Also, because i am working with 27 stitch MS, should I pick up 14 rather than 12?


----------



## tamarque

Mgwg said:


> Question...working on the side triangle...pickup 13 stitches and now ready to work the WS row. The directions only account for 12 stitches...please advise re the 13th stitch.
> 
> Also, because i am working with 27 stitch MS, should I pick up 14 rather than 12?


Picking up 13 will work because you have a 27 st MS. If you pick up too many the edge may get 'sloppy.'


----------



## Simone54

tamarque said:


> Picking up 13 will work because you have a 27 st MS. If you pick up too many the edge may get 'sloppy.'


Thanks this information. I am still wondering about the extra stitchon the first WS


----------



## beahop

After seeing all the messages about the confusion for this sweater, I will really be doing this sweater very "slowly". Went shopping for yarn today because there was a coupon in my e-mail. But it expired yesterday. Oh well! I still got them anyway. The variegated kind. There is so many colors to pick up a solid color yarn and therefore use most of my stash.
Also it's time to wind up my 14 oz.skeins. Otherwise I won't be able to store them in my new totes I got at Walmart. Bea


----------



## Simone54

Mgwg said:


> Thanks this information. I am still wondering about the extra stitchon the first WS


Please disregard, I worked it out


----------



## tamarque

Mgwg said:


> Thanks this information. I am still wondering about the extra stitchon the first WS


What extra stitch? Not understanding.


----------



## tamarque

tamarque said:


> What extra stitch? Not understanding.


Not to worry. You have it figured out and we were talking at cross purposes I think. Let's not confuse things further. Sometimes posting like this makes communication challenging (LOL).


----------



## tamarque

beahop said:


> After seeing all the messages about the confusion for this sweater, I will really be doing this sweater very "slowly". Went shopping for yarn today because there was a coupon in my e-mail. But it expired yesterday. Oh well! I still got them anyway. The variegated kind. There is so many colors to pick up a solid color yarn and therefore use most of my stash.
> Also it's time to wind up my 14 oz.skeins. Otherwise I won't be able to store them in my new totes I got at Walmart. Bea


Great. I think you will find things less confusing once you get going. Knitting is such an experiential process and many of us need to actually do to understand what is being asked of us to do.

Make sure you tell us what yarns and colors you are using.


----------



## Bubba24

I am back from vacation. I knit the 12 rows before starting the decreases for the raglan sleeves. I have started the decreases. Coming along. It says to knit until 61 stitches remaining on needle at neck. On the next page it says number of stitches on needle at neck is 67. I have quite a bit to go before I get to that point.
Fran


----------



## beahop

Hi,
I purchased Red Heart "Sherbert" in Super Saver. (I think that's the name of the yarn.) Anyway, the colors are so striking to anything made from it will appeal to the eye. Bea


----------



## beahop

The sweater is called Ripple Eyelet Sweater on Knittingonthenet.com. Beautiful pattern and easy to make. Just make sure you understand the instructions before starting. Bea


----------



## beahop

Hi,
I am just starting my MS square, but confusing part is the decreasing after the marker. What happens after it is done? Is there another set of stitches to be decreased? I watched videos and they have two stitch decreases every other row. Bea


----------



## tamarque

beahop said:


> Hi,
> I am just starting my MS square, but confusing part is the decreasing after the marker. What happens after it is done? Is there another set of stitches to be decreased? I watched videos and they have two stitch decreases every other row. Bea


That is exactly right. There is only 1 double decrease in the center of each RS row. As you work the decrease column up the center, the decreases pull the sides of the square up. That is the magic of the square. And as you get past the center of the square it keeps pulling in, narrowing to a the top point of the square. Trust it; it really works. After doing 2 or 3 of them, it will click with you.


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> I am back from vacation. I knit the 12 rows before starting the decreases for the raglan sleeves. I have started the decreases. Coming along. It says to knit until 61 stitches remaining on needle at neck. On the next page it says number of stitches on needle at neck is 67. I have quite a bit to go before I get to that point.
> Fran


 61 st is for size 5;;67 st is for size 6


----------



## Bubba24

tamarque said:


> 61 st is for size 5;;67 st is for size 6


Tanya,
This is what I was referring to. But if I had the numbers up I get 62 not 61 or 67. 
Fran


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> Tanya,
> This is what I was referring to. But if I had the numbers up I get 62 not 61 or 67.
> Fran


While we like to be precise, in this case the difference of 1 or 2 stitches will not make a difference.

I see, tho, where you confusion came from. The numbers 61 and 67 come from the chart on P.12. You photo's the chart on P.13. I will have to check the numbers and dimensions.

I would check the dimensions that you want against your gauge. A size 5 will want 10.5-11" for the neck. Anything in that range will work.


----------



## Bubba24

tamarque said:


> While we like to be precise, in this case the difference of 1 or 2 stitches will not make a difference.
> 
> I see, tho, where you confusion came from. The numbers 61 and 67 come from the chart on P.12. You photo's the chart on P.13. I will have to check the numbers and dimensions.
> 
> I would check the dimensions that you want against your gauge. A size 5 will want 10.5-11" for the neck. Anything in that range will work.


Ok. Thanks. Still doing the decreases for the sleeves.


----------



## Simone54

I am struck on the Rt sidesmiddle triangle. Top of page 8, "repeat these last 2rows until 3st on needle, RS sl 1, k1 psso, cut yarn and pull through".

S1, k1, psso accounts for only 2 stitches ...but i have 3 stitches on the needle. Please advise


----------



## Simone54

Mgwg said:


> I am struck on the Rt sidesmiddle triangle. Top of page 8, "repeat these last 2rows until 3st on needle, RS sl 1, k1 psso, cut yarn and pull through".
> 
> S1, k1, psso accounts for only 2 stitches ...but i have 3 stitches on the needle. Please advise


Disregard, I figured it out


----------



## tamarque

Mgwg said:


> Disregard, I figured it out


Doesn't it feel good to be able to answer our own questions? It tells me your skill is building.


----------



## tamarque

Hey Y'all--how is everyone doing? 

Would be nice to get a check from people.


----------



## Bubba24

Here is my sweater so far. Seems like the decrease part is taking forever. I think I am finally down to about 158 stitches. I should of taken into consideration that I am a loose knitter and should have gone down 1-2 needles sizes. But look at it this way, better bigger than smaller. And I will have one Christmas gift done.
Fran


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> Here is my sweater so far. Seems like the decrease part is taking forever. I think I am finally down to about 158 stitches. I should of taken into consideration that I am a loose knitter and should have gone down 1-2 needles sizes. But look at it this way, better bigger than smaller. And I will have one Christmas gift done.
> Fran


Great seeing your post Fran. I can see you really are a water person 😍 It looks good.

Regarding your concerns about size--this is why I always work with a tape measure next to me and constantly check what I am actually knitting. With the exception of the Miter Squares, this sweater is easy to adjust stitches and row counts is we keep track of the work itself.

Let me ask a question that may be silly, but you have been decreasing 8 st/row?


----------



## jscaplen

Bubba24 said:


> Here is my sweater so far. ... look at it this way, better bigger than smaller. ....


Looking great! 
I agree with that sentiment - kids can grow in such spurts. Much better to plan ahead than have something that only fits for a couple of months when you have put so much time into it.


----------



## Bubba24

Tanya,
Yes I have. 1 stitch on each of the fronts, 2 stitches on each sleeve and 2 on the back. I am decreasing only on right side, right? I sure hope so. 
Fran


----------



## Normaedern

Fran, that is lovely. Great knitting :thumbup:


----------



## Bubba24

I have to say, my button holes came out horrible. Don't really know what I did wrong. So I am going to sew the holes closed and sew the buttons over where the holes were and put snaps on the inside. Easy solution. I am excited to do the I cord. I have done I cords when I made the cradle purse and I really liked doing it. 
Fran


----------



## Bubba24

Bubba24 said:


> Here is my sweater so far. Seems like the decrease part is taking forever. I think I am finally down to about 158 stitches. I should of taken into consideration that I am a loose knitter and should have gone down 1-2 needles sizes. But look at it this way, better bigger than smaller. And I will have one Christmas gift done.
> Fran


Looks uneven but just the way it is hanging on the hanger.


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> Tanya,
> Yes I have. 1 stitch on each of the fronts, 2 stitches on each sleeve and 2 on the back. I am decreasing only on right side, right? I sure hope so.
> Fran


Yes, your are correct.


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> I have to say, my button holes came out horrible. Don't really know what I did wrong. So I am going to sew the holes closed and sew the buttons over where the holes were and put snaps on the inside. Easy solution. I am excited to do the I cord. I have done I cords when I made the cradle purse and I really liked doing it.
> Fran


Sorry about the buttonhole frustration. For such a little detail they can really test you. But your solution is a good one. Someone else posted me that she didn't like buttonholes and would use snaps with a button for show on the surface. So you have company.


----------



## Bubba24

I only did button holes many years ago. I didn't think they were that bad but I don't remember how I did them. Patiently waiting to do the I cord.


----------



## Bubba24

Tanya,
On the armhole depth is it 64 rows from where I added the sleeves or where I started the decrease for the raglan sleeves? 
Thanks,
Fran


----------



## Bubba24

Hi Tanya,
Me again. When I am done with the decreases it says to bind off 6 stitches and k across(rs). Then bind off 6 stitches and k across(ws). Then it says neck stitches front 8 stitches each side. But if I bind off 6 stitches I get 5 stitches each front which will then be 56 stitches. Or should I bind off 3 stitches each front and that will give me 60 stitches? Am I reading it right? Now I am confusing myself. Lol.
Thanks,
Fran


----------



## beahop

Hi,
What kind of a check? I would do it all the time for you. It is a pain to do Pay Pal. I read up on it. Too much rigamorow. What ever you spell the word. Bea


----------



## Simone54

I have knit 'P' several times and have finally decided the triangle is good enough (although still not 100% satisfied with it). For me, the difficulty is the last row as the instructions dont account for three stitches...perhaps it should be Sl1, K2tog, PSSO, cut yarn and pull thru. Time to move on. 

Tanya, is the 'upper right corner' triangle 'M'?


----------



## Simone54

Bubba24, I see your comment about going down one or two needle sizes fot the top of the jacket, wondering if I should do that too?


----------



## Bubba24

Mgwg said:


> Bubba24, I see your comment about going down one or two needle sizes fot the top of the jacket, wondering if I should do that too?


I should have done that since I am a loose knitter. So now my gauge is off so my sweater is larger. But all that said I am happy with the way it looks.


----------



## Bubba24

Tanya
This is where I am at. 14 stitches on each front, 6 on each sleeve and 28 on back. Should I continue the decrease on the fronts down to 11 stitches? Then bind off the 6 on each side? 
Fran


----------



## Simone54

Can anyone confirm that upper right triangle is 'M'?


----------



## Bubba24

Mgwg said:


> Can anyone confirm that upper right triangle is 'M'?


I am looking at the pattern, pg 5 or 6, and the upper right triangle is "M".
Fran


----------



## Simone54

Bubba24 said:


> I am looking at the pattern, pg 5 or 6, and the upper right triangle is "M".
> Fran


Thanks Fran. I am just starting M, but dont understand the instruction. Any advice?


----------



## Simone54

Are the stitches on the top of M, left live?


----------



## Bubba24

Mgwg said:


> Are the stitches on the top of M, left live?


I am reading the directions for "M" and trying to figure it out. No I don't believe they are left live because you are going to pick up stitches for the body of the sweater. I hope I am giving you the right advice.
Fran


----------



## Simone54

I left them live on both M and N and so far, looks like it will work out. I am making a size 3 so only suppose to do garter stitch until the length us 7.5. Giving all the work so far, i am going to make this sweater longer so my GD can wear it longer


----------



## Simone54

MSs finally done...whew!


----------



## Bubba24

Mgwg said:


> MSs finally done...whew!


Wow. I love it. You did a great job. Not sure if I like mine. It came too wide and I should have made it longer.
Fran


----------



## jscaplen

Mgwg said:


> MSs finally done...whew!


Looking good! That blue looks great with the multicoloured section.


----------



## Normaedern

Mgwg said:


> MSs finally done...whew!


Quite beautiful. It will turn heads :thumbup:


----------



## Simone54

What should be the gauge of the stocking stitch sections?


----------



## Bubba24

Mgwg said:


> What should be the gauge of the stocking stitch sections?


I looked for gauge but I don't have it on the pattern that I printed. I am guessing you are doing the sleeves and size 3 as you said in a previous post. The only thing I see is the width of a size 3 should be 10.5-11. I'll check on raverly to see the updated pattern. Sorry I wasn't much help.
Fran


----------



## Bubba24

My sweater so far. I am doing the I cord. I think it is the verigated yarn that I don't care for. Maybe once it is done and blocked I will like it better.


----------



## Simone54

Bubba24 said:


> I looked for gauge but I don't have it on the pattern that I printed. I am guessing you are doing the sleeves and size 3 as you said in a previous post. The only thing I see is the width of a size 3 should be 10.5-11. I'll check on raverly to see the updated pattern. Sorry I wasn't much help.
> Fran


Thanks Fran...I couldnt find anything other than the information you provided. My gauge is pretty closer with 3.25 mm which rather surprises me. Working on the sleeves


----------



## Simone54

Bubba24 said:


> My sweater so far. I am doing the I cord. I think it is the verigated yarn that I don't care for. Maybe once it is done and blocked I will like it better.


The finishing is really pulling your project together-very nice.

I dont see anyone else posting...wondering if we are the only two left?


----------



## jscaplen

Bubba24 said:


> ...I think it is the verigated yarn that I don't care for. Maybe once it is done and blocked I will like it better.


I think that it will be lovely - the blocking will bring it all out.


----------



## Bubba24

Mgwg said:


> The finishing is really pulling your project together-very nice.
> 
> I dont see anyone else posting...wondering if we are the only two left?


I am hoping it will look better when it is done with the buttons, I cord and blocking. 
I haven't seen Tanya. Hope she is ok.
Fran


----------



## beahop

Hi Everybody,
I noticed that the triangle squares of MS are joined for the bottom of the sweater. Am I right. Also need page numbers for the pattern, because I dropped some and don't know where they go. Bea


----------



## Normaedern

Bubba24 said:


> My sweater so far. I am doing the I cord. I think it is the verigated yarn that I don't care for. Maybe once it is done and blocked I will like it better.


That isgrand looking :thumbup:


----------



## Bubba24

Thanks Norma,
It looks a little distorted on the hanger. It looks a lot better on the floor, but with the cloudy rainy day the lighting wasn't good. 
Fran


----------



## Simone54

Fran, did you make the sleeves as long as recommended in the pattern? If yes, do you think they are too long?


----------



## beahop

Hi,
I'm curious as to what made you include some variegated yarn on the sweater? It's not bad, because you used it in your MS. Bea


----------



## Bubba24

Mgwg said:


> Fran, did you make the sleeves as long as recommended in the pattern? If yes, do you think they are too long?


I don't think the sleeves are too long. They can always be folded up.
Fran


----------



## Bubba24

beahop said:


> Hi,
> I'm curious as to what made you include some variegated yarn on the sweater? It's not bad, because you used it in your MS. Bea


I thought it would break it up. Not sure I like it. But it is done and I am not ripping it out.
Fran


----------



## beahop

It's nice and only a few lines to give the MS some attention and the top as well. You did a nice job. Keep it up. Bea


----------



## beahop

I heard that we shouldn't hang a sweater on a hanger because it would sag in some ways. Gravity was the reason. So we need to lay it flat for photos and storage. Bea


----------



## eshlemania

Mgwg, love your colors in your sweater. So bright and happy. 

Fran, your sweater is coming along nicely also.


----------



## Bubba24

eshlemania said:


> Mgwg, love your colors in your sweater. So bright and happy.
> 
> Fran, your sweater is coming along nicely also.


Thank you. Hopefully it will be done by the end of the week.

Bea...I only hung the sweater for the picture. Lighting was not good to take picture on the floor.


----------



## Bubba24

My sweater so far. Looking better as I am adding the I cord.


----------



## eshlemania

Wow, Fran. It surprising how much difference the i-cord makes. Looking good!


----------



## Simone54

Fran, the sweater looks great. Many thanks for sharing your work...you are leading the way on this project. I am very grateful
Maria


----------



## Bubba24

Thanks. The I cord does make a difference. I am starting to like it better. 
Fran


----------



## Bubba24

I just finished my sweater. I need to get different buttons. Thank you Tanya. I enjoyed making this sweater. Once I figured out the ms they went pretty fast. I should have gone down a needle size. I used a 2x2ribbing on the cuff. The I cord I used size 6 dpn's. I am thinking of making one for my GD who will be 1 in April. Again Thank you.
I can't wait to see everyone's sweater.
Fran


----------



## beahop

Beautiful job of doing this sweater for the first time. Great fun I'm sure. Copied the pictures so I will know what to expect mine to look like. Bea


----------



## Bubba24

Thanks Bea.


----------



## jscaplen

Bubba24 said:


> I just finished my sweater. ...


You did a great job! It will be treasured for sure.


----------



## RosD

Bubba24 said:


> I just finished my sweater. I need to get different buttons. Thank you Tanya. I enjoyed making this sweater. Once I figured out the ms they went pretty fast. I should have gone down a needle size. I used a 2x2ribbing on the cuff. The I cord I used size 6 dpn's. I am thinking of making one for my GD who will be 1 in April. Again Thank you.
> I can't wait to see everyone's sweater.
> Fran


You have done a great job. Beautiful work. 💞


----------



## eshlemania

Fran, that is great!!!


----------



## Normaedern

Fran, that is fantastic :thumbup:


----------



## sisu

Beautiful work Fran. Love how all the colors worked out. Thanks for the inspiration! 
I must get back to mine soon!


----------



## Bubba24

Thank you everyone. I just need to block it and get different buttons. Show me your work.
Fran


----------



## MissMelba

Looks great Fran


----------



## tamarque

HEY EVERYONE--I'm baaaack. Sorry to have disappeared but life had a way taking over and my focus was demanded elsewhere. But know that I thought a lot about you and your project progress.

Am so happy to see all the voices chiming in here. Maybe I should have gone silent before to bring everyone out of the woodwork (pun intended).


Fran--I see you figured out the neck closure tab. It is beautiful. Your colors are fabulous. Calm but exciting at the same time. Very warm water colors.

Personally, I feel adding the variegated yarn enlivens the pattern but I hear that it may not be to your usual taste. For a toddler, it will be exciting.

And glad you enjoyed the I-cord edging. It is one of my favorite things to do. I think it adds dimension as it frames the project and the rounded edge feels richer to me than standard bind offs.


Bea--the pages of the pattern should be numbered. Are you having a problem with seeing this on the lower right corner of the page


You had asked about Gauge--It was on Page 2 in the first revision sent out. I used a 5.5 st/inch gauge on mine.

What I found is that it is absolutely critical to keep track of the dimensions of your knitting with MSs. They are very stretchy and if switching back to SS the gauge needs to be monitored. I have pointed this out before in different ways, but maybe it deserves repeating again. As skilled knitters we tend to ignore some of the basic things we often take for granted. 

I tried to provide dimension charts in the pattern to help keep sizing on track. Have people been using them? Are they not clear? I would like feedback as it took a lot of time to put them together but if they don't work they should be changed, eliminated, elaborated? Your feedback is very important to me. So let me hear from you with your constructive suggestions/comments.

I really am so happy to see the progress going on.

Sorry if anyone's questions were missed, please post them again so I can answer.


----------



## Bubba24

Glad you are back Tanya. Hope everything is ok. Missed you but like you said everyone came out of the woodwork to help each other. Lol. I guess we new more than we think we did.
I am very happy with the way the sweater came out. Now that the sweater is finished I do like the way the verigated yarn looks. The I cord really finished the sweater. It makes such a nice finishing touch. I had a few uneven edges and that made it more even.
Thank you for teaching this class. You did a great job. So what are you teaching next? Did I mention I really enjoyed making this sweater?
Will be waiting to see everyone's sweater.
Fran


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> Glad you are back Tanya. Hope everything is ok. Missed you but like you said everyone came out of the woodwork to help each other. Lol. I guess we new more than we think we did.
> I am very happy with the way the sweater came out. Now that the sweater is finished I do like the way the verigated yarn looks. The I cord really finished the sweater. It makes such a nice finishing touch. I had a few uneven edges and that made it more even.
> Thank you for teaching this class. You did a great job. So what are you teaching next? Did I mention I really enjoyed making this sweater?
> 
> Will be waiting to see everyone's sweater.
> Fran


So nice to have a fan club 😍

Especially happy to know that you liked the pattern, learning a few new tricks along the way. It was probably a bit more complicated than you thought since it was 'only' a toddler sweater.

I did do a mock up of a miter square beanie hat that can go with it. It uses a different design for beginning triangles, just to keep things interesting. Need to write it up and when done will offer it as a freebie for those who participated in this workshop and purchased the sweater pattern. Will try to get it photo'd and sent to the workshop later today. So easy to get caught up in knitting and talking about it. If people would like, we can make it part of this workshop once others are a bit further along. If not, maybe a separate mini one.

Do have a couple of other toddler designs that need to be written up and would love to teach them. But one thing at a time, right?

I really enjoyed working with you and everyone in this workshop. Thankyou.

=====================================
*DESIGNER HERE *- Hi everyone! I would think it might be better to put the hat in here so that the two are together if that is okay with you. It can be posted here and the actual link to the pattern can also be added to this workshop.

I also, as you know, am cutting the workshops back due to personal health reasons. I hope however to have a few workshops a year. If you wish to teach your other patterns, please contact me and I will see if we can carry this one on so that all your classes would be on the same thread. I am sure we can work something out .

I thank you all for joining in and look forward to seeing all the finished sweaters. We won't close this one until we know what is decided about your other sweaters. I can't promise we will open a new workshop for each one so the above is really the only way I can make sure you have this workshop available for your other sweaters.Shirley


----------



## Bubba24

I would love to make a hat to match the sweater. I will wait until everyone is ready. A lot of catch up knitting to do. I would also be interested in the other patterns. That also can wait. Out of my 10 GC I have 1 that is 3 (girl), 1 that is a year next month(girl) and one that is 9 months ( boy). Always looking for new patterns. 
Thanks Fran


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> I would love to make a hat to match the sweater. I will wait until everyone is ready. A lot of catch up knitting to do. I would also be interested in the other patterns. That also can wait. Out of my 10 GC I have 1 that is 3 (girl), 1 that is a year next month(girl) and one that is 9 months ( boy). Always looking for new patterns.
> Thanks Fran


Will be happy to try an oblige you. My other patterns are not as complicated as this one was but they are unique.

Agree that others should catch up a bit more on their Miter Square sweater before posting anything new.


----------



## beahop

How about ALL IN ONE from Ravelry? They are such cute ones for little boys and girls. They are knitted down from the top. My favorite. Bea


----------



## Bubba24

tamarque said:


> Will be happy to try an oblige you. My other patterns are not as complicated as this one was but they are unique.
> 
> Agree that others should catch up a bit more on their Miter Square sweater before posting anything new.


Thanks Tanya.
No problem waiting. I have plenty of catch up knitting to do. I have started socks, 1898 hat, Boris the bunny. Oh and I forgot, I have an adult sweater on the needles. I don't like having so much started. 
Fran


----------



## tamarque

Bubba24 said:


> Thanks Tanya.
> No problem waiting. I have plenty of catch up knitting to do. I have started socks, 1898 hat, Boris the bunny. Oh and I forgot, I have an adult sweater on the needles. I don't like having so much started.
> Fran


Am always amazed at the number of projects people have going at once. I get nuts when there are is more than 1 project going.
Running out of yarn and needing to wait for more to arrive makes me certifiable even tho I begin a new project while waiting. How do you keep track of it all? How do you keep your energy going for each of the projects?


----------



## beahop

Hi,
Do you really have faith in ordering yarn on line? Because of the security of my finance, I'd rather send a check with the order to insure it's paid for. Just like sending you a check for the pattern. I usually try to get yarn at the store because it's a day out. Looking at new yarns give me such thrills to know that I can do something with them. Bea


----------



## tamarque

beahop said:


> Hi,
> Do you really have faith in ordering yarn on line? Because of the security of my finance, I'd rather send a check with the order to insure it's paid for. Just like sending you a check for the pattern. I usually try to get yarn at the store because it's a day out. Looking at new yarns give me such thrills to know that I can do something with them. Bea


Oh, yes, a day in the yarn store is fantastic, especially a new one. One of my funnest days was a field trip to WEBS in Mass. But so dangerous, too. That store is huge and filled with such great yarns. They also have their own line which is usually discounted. And they have tent sales 2x/yr which are like yarn rummage sales. Did I say that is a dangerous place for a yarnaholic?

Do you have any fiber festivals in your area. They are great fun and you get to meet some of the small spinners and dyers as they sell their yarns there. Always lots of yarns to fondle and drool over. In my region where we have a lot of people from KP, people have gotten together to make a days outing together. That is another fun day with yarn.

And we have a yarn crawl organized by local yarn stores once a year where you can drive from one store to another to sample their goodies. Great if you can do this in a small group to share the driving costs. We have about a dozen shops in a 2-3 county area. You can even create your own outing with sister knitters to do this.

I have also ordered from WEBS with no problem. They have a good customer service and have used it several times for online or phone orders. Other places have also been very good. Most decent yarn places have toll free phone numbers so you can use them with your credit cards directly and avoid the online payment process. Ordering online or by phone gives you so much more yarn options.

I can also tell you that Ebay and Amazon have proven safe and successful. The one ordering source that causes me some question is ordering from Chinese companies but even those, while taking at least 2 weeks for delivery, has worked fine. I have gotten cashmere yarn from China on a couple of occasions thru Ebay which worked well. Have also gotten some discount/ discontinued high end yarns that would have out of budget this way. Elann.com is also a good source to work with. There are some great yarns in my stash that would not have been gotten locally but were fine to buy online or by phone. ICE is also good and many KP'rs order from them.

Asking on KP about a yarn source may make you feel more comfortable as people can share their experiences with you.

Hope these notes make you feel more comfortable.


----------



## kaixixang

tamarque said:


> Oh, yes, a day in the yarn store is fantastic, especially a new one. One of my funnest days was a field trip to WEBS in Mass. But so dangerous, too. That store is huge and filled with such great yarns. They also have their own line which is usually discounted. And they have tent sales 2x/yr which are like yarn rummage sales. Did I say that is a dangerous place for a yarnaholic?
> 
> Do you have any fiber festivals in your area. They are great fun and you get to meet some of the small spinners and dyers as they sell their yarns there. Always lots of yarns to fondle and drool over. In my region where we have a lot of people from KP, people have gotten together to make a days outing together. That is another fun day with yarn.
> 
> And we have a yarn crawl organized by local yarn stores once a year where you can drive from one store to another to sample their goodies. Great if you can do this in a small group to share the driving costs. We have about a dozen shops in a 2-3 county area. You can even create your own outing with sister knitters to do this.
> 
> I have also ordered from WEBS with no problem. They have a good customer service and have used it several times for online or phone orders. Other places have also been very good. Most decent yarn places have toll free phone numbers so you can use them with your credit cards directly and avoid the online payment process. Ordering online or by phone gives you so much more yarn options.
> 
> I can also tell you that Ebay and Amazon have proven safe and successful. The one ordering source that causes me some question is ordering from Chinese companies but even those, while taking at least 2 weeks for delivery, has worked fine. I have gotten cashmere yarn from China on a couple of occasions thru Ebay which worked well. Have also gotten some discount/ discontinued high end yarns that would have out of budget this way. Elann.com is also a good source to work with. There are some great yarns in my stash that would not have been gotten locally but were fine to buy online or by phone. ICE is also good and many KP'rs order from them.
> 
> Asking on KP about a yarn source may make you feel more comfortable as people can share their experiences with you.
> 
> Hope these notes make you feel more comfortable.


I'm rather reluctant to order the circulars and other supplies from the West Coast direction. I don't know what shipping has been coming in for everyone...but aren't they having a shipping problem along the ports in California? Deramore's is a choice for European yarns and hardware. I have ordered admittedly few items for now...but I'm just getting started knitting.


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## tamarque

kaixixang said:


> I'm rather reluctant to order the circulars and other supplies from the West Coast direction. I don't know what shipping has been coming in for everyone...but aren't they having a shipping problem along the ports in California? Deramore's is a choice for European yarns and hardware. I have ordered admittedly few items for now...but I'm just getting started knitting.


Hi KX--So nice to see you here. Not sure about shipping issues from the west coast. You may be right. I think Bea's issue was more one of security as opposed to time delays which can be a pain in itself. ICE ships from the northwest, Canada? where they have a distribution center. It still takes about 2 weeks to receive packages.

I am sure your knitting will be as particular and spectacular as your lace crochet work. Look forward to seeing more of your work.


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## Simone54

Just checking in. I have completed the sleeves and now working on the yoke section


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## Bubba24

tamarque said:


> Am always amazed at the number of projects people have going at once. I get nuts when there are is more than 1 project going.
> Running out of yarn and needing to wait for more to arrive makes me certifiable even tho I begin a new project while waiting. How do you keep track of it all? How do you keep your energy going for each of the projects?


I don't like to have that many projects going at once. The adult sweater I started I put on the side because it seems too plain and not sure if I like it. My New Years resolution is to make a pair a month. So far so good. So I always have socks on the needles. The 1898 hat, I wanted to see why everyone was making them. The hat came out really nice and it is an easy knit. As for Boris the bunny. I wanted to join that workshop. I lost stitches so had to rib it out. There is no way you can pick stitches up with eyelash yarn. So Boris is put to rest for now. 
So now I am back to sanity with only working on my socks. Feels good. As for the sweater on the needles I am going to rip it out.
Fran


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## Bubba24

Mgwg said:


> Just checking in. I have completed the sleeves and now working on the yoke section


Great. Can you post a picture.

Fran


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## tamarque

Good to hear from you folks. Was wondering if anyone was still out there working on their Miter Square project.

Fran-- I am with you. Frogging a project that isn't working for us is really the best thing. I find if it sits there, it toys with my energy and makes it hard for me to move forward. And it doesn't mean we are a failure. Like books or movies that don't really work for us, some projects just need to be gotten gone and clear our decks.

I also love doing socks. Could no longer buy decent wool socks for a reasonable price and that got me into doing socks. They offer so much variety in styles and techniques and are so portable. You can even add some miter squares to your pattern, too. Something to think about, Yes?


Mgwg--happy to see you making progress. how is it going? any problems with attaching the sleeves to the body? Any problem with the gauge and dimensions? This can be a tricky part of the sweater.


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## Designer1234

Bubba24 said:


> I just finished my sweater. I need to get different buttons. Thank you Tanya. I enjoyed making this sweater. Once I figured out the ms they went pretty fast. I should have gone down a needle size. I used a 2x2ribbing on the cuff. The I cord I used size 6 dpn's. I am thinking of making one for my GD who will be 1 in April. Again Thank you.
> I can't wait to see everyone's sweater.
> Fran


Designer here! WOW I love your colors and what a pretty sweater. Actually, I rather like the buttons but that is a personal choice. I am a 'color - holic' so I like it just the we it is. I am going to use the same edging. Have never done one but I understand it is quite easy to do. I have done lots of i cords but never as a border, attached to a piece. I am working on a pullover stash buster so it would work at the bottom, I am sure.


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## tamarque

Designer1234 said:



> Designer here! WOW I love your colors and what a pretty sweater. Actually, I rather like the buttons but that is a personal choice. I am a 'color - holic' so I like it just the we it is. I am going to use the same edging. Have never done one but I understand it is quite easy to do. I have done lots of i cords but never as a border, attached to a piece. I am working on a pullover stash buster so it would work at the bottom, I am sure.


Hey friend--so nice to see you here again. Glad you like the attached I-cord edging. It really is a fav of mine. Considering you are working 3 or 4 rows simultaneously, it actually goes pretty quickly. I also like that it deals with curling edges on SS fabric if you don't have a bottom rib. Maybe you will show us pics of your use of the I-cord edging. FYI, I have seen it used on hat bottoms, mitts/gloves, button fasteners, etc, as well as sweaters.

Before learning about using the I-cord edging, I would do a reverse SS to create a round inward curl. The I-cord is a much better and sturdier edging though.

And I agree that Fran's colors work so well. Everyone's color schemes are terrific and all so different. Hope you got to go thru the pages to see the ones some people shared.


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## Simone54

Tanya, I need help with the decreasing. I have 236 stitches on my needles and, if I understand the instructions correctly, I need to decrease to a total of 54 stitches. Looks like there are 6 decreases per each RS row. The math doesnt work out evenly (236 - 54 = 182/6=30.3. Please advise. Where am I mixed up?


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## tamarque

Mgwg said:


> Tanya, I need help with the decreasing. I have 236 stitches on my needles and, if I understand the instructions correctly, I need to decrease to a total of 54 stitches. Looks like there are 6 decreases per each RS row. The math doesnt work out evenly (236 - 54 = 182/6=30.3. Please advise. Where am I mixed up?


Am I correct that you are doing the size 3 sweater?
And what is your gauge?

If I understand your math you are looking to have 30 decrease rows but you have a couple of extra stitches. Is that your problem? If you leave 56 st on the needle at the neck you will have an even number: 236 et-56 = 180; 180/6 = 30 dec rows. Those 2 extra st at the neck will not make any difference. You can also do a couple extra decreases at the neck either on the back or shoulders.

Designing with raglans can be a real challenge trying to get all the numbers to work out evenly for all the sizes--they just never seem to do that. I can assure you that I spent more hours than I could count working on this. The good news is that it is not critical and leaving the extra stitches or reducing them is up to you. What I would do is take my measurements as the work was progressing and near the neck would check to see if the dimensions were what I wanted. If the measurements were a bit loose, I would decrease the extra st; if the measurements were snug I would leave them.

Does this help your comfort zone? If not ask more.


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## Simone54

Just a quick update, I have successfully attached the body and sleeves, and am now starting on the decreases. I hope to get much accomplished this weekend 
(note:I changed my logon name to Simone54 from Mgwg)


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## eshlemania

Simone, if I remember your colors, looking forward to the next picture.


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## tamarque

Simone54 said:


> Just a quick update, I have successfully attached the body and sleeves, and am now starting on the decreases. I hope to get much accomplished this weekend
> (note:I changed my logon name to Simone54 from Mgwg)


Thanks for clarifying the name change. I was a bit confused and hoped my response was to the right person.

Glad you are progressing on the sweater. Just keep track of your dimensions and gauge. Use the sizing charts included in the pattern to guide you. Can't wait to see your updated pics.


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## tamarque

eshlemania said:


> Simone, if I remember your colors, looking forward to the next picture.


Hi Bev--so nice to see you here.


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## eshlemania

I like to check in when I can.


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## tamarque

eshlemania said:


> I like to check in when I can.


And I like to see that, too.


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## beahop

Hi,
It's Bea. I am still on my MS and not in a hurry to do the sweater at this time. As long as the MS gets done, I'll be o.k. I have a whole year to do this project. No hurry, right? Take care. Bea


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## tamarque

beahop said:


> Hi,
> It's Bea. I am still on my MS and not in a hurry to do the sweater at this time. As long as the MS gets done, I'll be o.k. I have a whole year to do this project. No hurry, right? Take care. Bea


This isn't a race. We all proceed at our own pace. The MS part of the pattern is really the big piece to learn. Once you get it, you can apply the technique in different ways. But glad to hear that you are hanging in with it.


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## Designer1234

Hi everyone! I have been checking in and reading the posts and I am wondering whether you would like me to open a Parade of Miter square Toddler jackets - It would mean that the finished pictures would be posted there. Tanya,would you let me know? thanks . Shirley.

ps. I am glad to see that the class is still open and hopefully we can open a Parade. Designer1234


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## beahop

Thanks a lot for your o.k. to go slow on this project. It's a new learning experience for me. For 80 year old lady, the brain has to catch up to the technique in order to make them. Bea


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## Simone54

Here is my work to date on my size three sweater. On the yoke, I have completed 18 decrease rounds and, based on my math and 6 decreases per right sided rows, I should have another 16 rows. The armhole depth is already 4.5 inches. Any advice Tanya?


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## Normaedern

Simone54 said:


> Here is my work to date on my size three sweater. On the yoke, I have completed 18 decrease rounds and, based on my math and 6 decreases per right sided rows, I should have another 16 rows. The armhole depth is already 4.5 inches. Any advice Tanya?


That is absolutely stunning! :thumbup: :thumbup:


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## tamarque

Simone54 said:


> Here is my work to date on my size three sweater. On the yoke, I have completed 18 decrease rounds and, based on my math and 6 decreases per right sided rows, I should have another 16 rows. The armhole depth is already 4.5 inches. Any advice Tanya?


Great that you sent photos. Much easier to see the problem. The measurement is not taken along the miter but from the shoulder so the bottom of the armhole just as you would on a set in sleeve. See what you get doing that: it should be a shorter dimension. Let me know.

Should also ask what is your row gauge?

And want to add your colors are spectacular. Such a a beautiful project.


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## tamarque

Normaedern said:


> That is absolutely stunning! :thumbup: :thumbup:


Norma--how is your sweater project coming? Have you had any time to work on it? I know how busy your life has been.


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## Simone54

tamarque said:


> Great that you sent photos. Much easier to see the problem. The measurement is not taken along the miter but from the shoulder so the bottom of the armhole just as you would on a set in sleeve. See what you get doing that: it should be a shorter dimension. Let me know.
> 
> Should also ask what is your row gauge?
> 
> And want to add your colors are spectacular. Such a a beautiful project.


if I understand your messge correctly, I adjusted the tape measure - the measurement is still 4.5 inches. I have completed 36 rows on the yoke. The yoke measures 4 inches ~ 9 rows per inch


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## eshlemania

Simone, what a stunnning colorway!!! A gorgeous sweater!!


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## Normaedern

tamarque said:


> Norma--how is your sweater project coming? Have you had any time to work on it? I know how busy your life has been.


It is still on hold, Tanya. I am finishing my snowdrop, then it is next on the wip list as DD wants it for DGS :thumbup:


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## jscaplen

Simone54 said:


> Here is my work to date ...


Sooo cute!


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## beahop

Hi,
Every one. Now that is a beautiful sweater with the variegated yarns used for the MS. The garter stitch shows the colors so vividly. Bea


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## Bubba24

Simone54 said:


> Here is my work to date on my size three sweater. On the yoke, I have completed 18 decrease rounds and, based on my math and 6 decreases per right sided rows, I should have another 16 rows. The armhole depth is already 4.5 inches. Any advice Tanya?


I just love your sweater. The colors are great.
Fran


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## sisu

That is just a wonderful sweater Simone! Really great color combination&#128077; 

Mine is also on hold. I enjoyed learning the miters but got waylaid after that with doing the snowdrop shawl also! Hopefully this will inspire me to get back to it!


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## tamarque

sisu said:


> That is just a wonderful sweater Simone! Really great color combination👍
> 
> Mine is also on hold. I enjoyed learning the miters but got waylaid after that with doing the snowdrop shawl also! Hopefully this will inspire me to get back to it!


That Snowdrop ate up my time, too. Was surprised how long it took me to make it. Hopefully, you will get back to this little beauty soon.

FYI, for others, there was a mini-KAL on this lace scarf that several people did on the Lace Party here on KP. There will be a parade of the projects put up shortly for sharing.


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## tamarque

Simone54 said:


> if I understand your messge correctly, I adjusted the tape measure - the measurement is still 4.5 inches. I have completed 36 rows on the yoke. The yoke measures 4 inches ~ 9 rows per inch


I see the situation. The photos, again, are great for communicating the problem. And the gauge info is critical. On the pattern the ga ws 11 rows/inch. You are at 9 rows/inch to you are gaining size w/o adjusting stitch count. So let's see what we can do here.

At 36 rows/9 rows pr inch you should have 4" of armhole depth. That means you have room for a few more rows .

And what is your stitch ga again? Number of stitches that you began the top with? Number of stitches you have on the needles now?

What is the neck line dimension at this point? How close are you to the finish size that is wanted?

It is 8 a.m. in my location--EST, and I will be here for at least another hour, maybe more, before beginning to run around for my day. Try to get me early. Otherwise, I will be back by 5 or 6 pm. And can work with you online then.


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## jrz

I'm in, 
Looking forward to making the jacket


Designer1234 said:


> *YOU ARE NOW IN THE MITER SQUARE TODDLER JACKET WORKSHOP; Jan. l9/2015*
> 
> ===========================


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## tamarque

jrz said:


> I'm in,
> Looking forward to making the jacket


Hi Jrz--welcome. I have kept this openhop open for people just such as you. It will be good for you to read thru the earlier pages which focus mainly on doing the miter squares.

My mantra to all is gauge--check and keep checking your gauge. My gauge is not what yours may be, and you may chose to make a size different than the ones I did. Don't short yourself by not making the sample miter squares and checking your gauge. Different yarns, needle sizes and, of course, your own tension will affect the outcome.

I don't like sounding a broken record, but have seen this to be the most important aspect of this project as once you commit to a miter square size it will not be easy/possible to alter the dimensions of this part of the pattern. And we begin with the miter square panel.

I hope this doesn't scare you, because it is not something intimidating once you get the idea of the miter square. It actually develops its own rhythm and is fun.

Hopefully you will post pics of your yarn and colors as color is one of the exciting things about this project and we all love to see them. Everyone has chosen such different color combos and they are all beautiful.


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## Simone54

All DONE!


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## Normaedern

That is fantastic :thumbup: :thumbup:


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## Normaedern

That is fantastic :thumbup: :thumbup:


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## sisu

Simone54 said:


> All DONE!


And WELL DONE  great combination of colors - so happy looking! Looks like you got all the dimensions just right. And the buttons are a perfect match!


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## jscaplen

Simone54 said:


> All DONE!


Stunning!


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## eshlemania

That looks great, Simone! Super job!!


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## Bubba24

Simone,
I just love the sweater. It came out so beautiful. Really like the way you did the neck. Did you do an I-cord? Might change the neck on mine.
Fran


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## Simone54

Bubba24 said:


> Simone,
> I just love the sweater. It came out so beautiful. Really like the way you did the neck. Did you do an I-cord? Might change the neck on mine.
> Fran


Thanks Fran (and others). Yes, I did an icord on the neck -more comfortable for my gdaughter


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## beahop

Gorgeous. Loved the blue after the mitered square section in the yoke. Saving this picture as an example. Bea


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## RosD

Simone54 said:


> All DONE!


Stunning Simone, I love it. 💞


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## tamarque

Simone54 said:


> All DONE!


Stunning! Such a bright, vibrant sweater. I was going to post you privately since I hadn't heard from you since your last question about the top dimensions but you figured it out. Changing the neckline is just fine as knitting is so individual. It came out very well. Excellent job, really excellent.


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## tamarque

I hope we have some other projects to add to our list of gorgeous projects. Can people post their progress just so I/we know what to expect?

Bea--how are you making out? I know you had some questions about the miters. Have you begun to do the sample miter squares? Did you watch the videos on doing them? Do post here so we can all benefit from your questions.


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## tamarque

Do want to make an announcement as many have asked: I am working on an adult version of the Miter Square sweater and hope to have it done in April. Obviously it will take longer to knit up an adult size. Is anyone brave enough to want to do a test knit?


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## beahop

Hi, its me Bea.
I had a hard time with double decreases that it actually paralized me. I looked at the few videos on You tube and finally figured it out. Phew! It's going to take a long time for me to do the jacket, but I'll make it into a vest. The sleeves look a little difficult for me for now. Bea


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## sisu

Tanya, I have just done the first top triangle,finally. I was wondering if there is a neat way to bind off that last stitch that you say to pull through. I get a bump there. But maybe it doesn't mater because it all gets evened out when we continue on with the rest of the top?


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## eshlemania

Oooo, Caryn, your colors look VERY interesting.


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## tamarque

sisu said:


> Tanya, I have just done the first top triangle,finally. I was wondering if there is a neat way to bind off that last stitch that you say to pull through. I get a bump there. But maybe it doesn't mater because it all gets evened out when we continue on with the rest of the top?


That 'bump' will not show when you pick up for the bodice. I know it is annoying and bothered me too but it evened out and was no problem

Your color is scrumptious--reminds me of a fabulous berry pie. Yum!!!

Glad to see you progressing.


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## tamarque

beahop said:


> Hi, its me Bea.
> I had a hard time with double decreases that it actually paralized me. I looked at the few videos on You tube and finally figured it out. Phew! It's going to take a long time for me to do the jacket, but I'll make it into a vest. The sleeves look a little difficult for me for now. Bea


Hey there. So glad to see you 'got it.' I have been trying to think of a way to help you. Once you get going, I think you will feel comfortable with the process and enjoy it. It is different than straight row knitting, but this what makes it so intriguing. And doing a vest will be great. You mentioned this before to me. I am excited to see all the variations that people do. Maybe have our own parade when people finish up--but no hurry; I am not trying to pressure anyone.


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## beahop

Hi,
I'm not interested in intrigue. It comes on Television all the time via NCIS. All I want is to have fun knitting these squares. "love knitting.com" showed the best way to decrease stitches. So I'll print the pages out and do each one as I turn the pages. Like a movie, I'll see the next "scene" come on. If you get my drift. Bea


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## sisu

eshlemania said:


> Oooo, Caryn, your colors look VERY interesting.


Thanks Bev. I am definitely improvising here


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## sisu

tamarque said:


> That 'bump' will not show when you pick up for the bodice. I know it is annoying and bothered me too but it evened out and was no problem
> 
> Your color is scrumptious--reminds me of a fabulous berry pie. Yum!!!
> 
> Glad to see you progressing.


Okay, glad it is just part of the process and not my knitting!
Yes berry pie does sound good


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## tamarque

beahop said:


> Hi,
> I'm not interested in intrigue. It comes on Television all the time via NCIS. All I want is to have fun knitting these squares. "love knitting.com" showed the best way to decrease stitches. So I'll print the pages out and do each one as I turn the pages. Like a movie, I'll see the next "scene" come on. If you get my drift. Bea


And guess what is on my TV now.......LOL

So glad you found a link that works for you on those decreases.
And like the way you liken the pattern to a movie that moves from one page/scene to another. Developing our own little memory cues is so important to our learning new things and keeping the connections in our minds.


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## tamarque

sisu said:


> Okay, glad it is just part of the process and not my knitting!
> Yes berry pie does sound good


Can't wait till you serve it up all complete. YUM.


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## Designer1234

Hi Ladies - *I just opened the Parade and I hope you will all post pictures of your finished jackets and even your works in progress.

http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-330263-1.html*

Each of our workshops shows the finished projects in "Pictures' and allows the rest of the KP members to see what you have accomplished.
Please post your finished projects and also your works in progress asap.

They are gorgeous.


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## Designer1234

Ladies we are going to leave the workshop open for awhile. *We would ask you how you are doing, and who is working on their sweater - We want you to have an opportunity to finish*. Tanya will be available. If you are planning on finishing please let us know. If you definitely aren't we would appreciate knowing.

Tamarque and Designer1234


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## tamarque

beahop said:


> Hi, its me Bea.
> I had a hard time with double decreases that it actually paralized me. I looked at the few videos on You tube and finally figured it out. Phew! It's going to take a long time for me to do the jacket, but I'll make it into a vest. The sleeves look a little difficult for me for now. Bea


Hello Bea. Now that you have gotten the decreases understood, I thought to check in with you and see how you are making out.


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## Designer1234

There doesn't seem to be much activity. If you wish to finish your sweater, Tamarque will be available and if you contact me I will post it here.

Thanks to Tamarque. I love the sweaters.

*THIS WORKSHOP IS NOW CLOSED. THANKS EVERYONE!*


----------

