# #1 -2016 -WORKSHOP - - DISHCLOTH COTTON -OWN DESIGN SWEATER. CLOSED



## Designer1234

#1= 2016- Cotton Dishcloth sweater workshop - teacher Designer1234 
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IF YOU ARE JOINING AFTER THE START OF THE WORKSHOP, READ THE WORKSHOP 
FROM THE BEGINNING. PLEASE don't go to the last page and ask questions until you make sure where 
we are and what we have done.

Okay, AWAY WE GO!

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*BEGINNING *

*THERE IS NO WRITTEN PATTERN FOR THIS SWEATER*. please read the information below.

*"A BIT ABOUT MY COTTON DISHCLOTH SWEATER -
history*
I was making some dishcloths a few years ago (I am not sure exactly how long ago),
and I started to 
wonder whether it would make a 'usable' short sleeved sweater. I had some of the 
large balls of cotton
which I had bought from walmart and found a couple that would go well together.

I knit the sweater and am still wearing it in the spring and summer.

RESULTS : It has never lost its color - It has never lost its Shape, and it is heavy
.
However, even though it is heavy it is very comfortable. I posted a picture on KP a year or so later
and every time I have used it in my avatar I have had requests to teach it. 
I LIKE the weight, which 
was a surprise and still is. It isn't a sweater that feels hot. You just know you have it on.
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I you are not using worsted weight cotton, you will have to be careful when you do the T pattern as in some patterns they are quite stretchy. So consider that and make sure you do a swatch of the stitch pattern you will use. The acrylic sweater I knit was not very pleasing as the seed stitch stretched quite a bit.

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When you do your measurements, you can calculate the stitches per inch
on the pattern and see where there is a difference between the stitches per inch in your measurements in comparison to the pattern.

You will be doing a swatch and will be deciding on your own stitch numbers 
===============

By the way this is a very simple knit - it is a drop sleeve short
or 3/4 length sleeve (your choice) and it is knit quite loose. You 
can choose the neckline and the colour combination. You might also decide to 
do a different pattern for the sweater. I did one with a cable up the centre 
piece.

The yellow
one is my favourite but as it is going to be YOUR SWEATER you can work in 
any pattern or texture you wish .

This sweater has two main stitches - I did the body in stocking stitch and the
centre T is variegated seed stitch.

I would also mention that if you know my sideways knit Stash Buster sweaters 
or 'Coat of many colours' you would use the drop sleeve pattern and use the
side knitted bottom area from the yoke down. Turning it and picking
up the row stitches to make the rows vertical instead of horizontal (the way 
you knit it).
You can also refer to the Coat of Many Colors workshop in the closed workshop
list on the main page of this section to give you an idea of what I am talking about.

===================================


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## Designer1234

*Here is some yarn information!*

You will note that I have used the large balls (skeins)of cotton and I purchased them in Walmarts. HOWEVER, I have been informed that the large balls (skeins) are also available in Michaels and am sure there are other places.

one of my hesitations about teaching this class was because I don't remember the exact yardage used for the sweater. I would suggest, if you are concerned -search for a pattern in your size that gives yardage and that will give you an idea.

=============

Marilynknits kindly told us : 
I have a Lily Sugar 'n' Cream 400 grams/14 ounces & 655 m/710 yards. It is a solid color in their Confectionary Colors line.

I also have a large variegated which is 340 g/12 oz. & 556 m/608 yards.

Each is a 4 weight worsted and H crochet hook/size 8 US knitting needle are recommended. I tend to knit loosely and usually use the next smaller size than that recommended for a yarn to achieve gauge.

Lily expects a gauge of 20 stitches and 26 rows on a 4" x 4"/10 cm x 10 cm swatch.
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NOTE"There are one or two brands in Walmart of cotton designed for dischcloths etc. They appear to be quite good for this sweater - there is alway one or two brands at Michaels , here in Canada - I am not sure whether you have Michaels in other countries. Patons dishcloth cotton is there and there are a variety of colors.

I just received a question which asked if she could use acrylic yarn as she was not able to buy cotton yarn where she is.

*Answer:* Certainly you can. I would use acrylic or acrylic blend worsted weight as the next best thing to cotton for this sweater. 
Please don't use wool blends for this class as it is your first shot at making your own sweater and after all that work I don't want it to shrink for you!!
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The amount needed will depend on your size.

_I would do a search for a sweater in your size on line and see what the yardage required is. I would buy extra yarn if you plan on putting sleeves in. However if you have information from a pattern for a fairly loose sweater and worsted weight yarn, it will give you an idea of the amount of yarn you will require.. Keep the pattern handy so that you can calculated their stitches per inch in comparison to yours so it will help keep you on track. I will explain each process._[/color]

--SLEEVES-- if you plan on making a long sleeved or 3/4 sleeve sweater, make sure you take that into consideration when you are buying yarn.

IMPORTANT This will require that each of you figure out the size you need -(number of stitches per inch) calculated in your swatch - times the number of inches you need FROM YOUR MEASUREMENT.

You will have to add ease to this measurement - Ease varies for different sizes and different shapes. We will discuss positive ease which is the amount of 'give' you need for your garment so that it is not skin tight[/color]

I will be happy to check your figures if you wish.It took me awhile to know I was able to do so correctly.


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## Designer1234

]YOU WILL LEARN HOW TO CALCULATE your stitches per inch with the needles you will be using and the yarn you will be using . YOU WILL MAKE A SWATCH . Remember this will only be the calculation for one set of needles and one skein of yarn (although it will be close using other yarns of the same weight[

*POSITIVE EASE*: [] EASE IS VERY IMPORTANT WHEN YOU ARE DECIDING HOW MANY INCHES YOU WILL NEED FOR A PROJECT. I write down my exact measurements and then in brackets added the amount of ease I thought I needed in each area of my body. - It is a good idea, as ease will depend upon your shape. I always have more ease at the top of my sweater as I am a size smaller at the top than through my stomach and hips ) So I always have to decide AHEAD of time what type of sweater will look best and how I reach that goal. Over the years I have found I never like one that is not adjusted for my shape. However, I can make one that fits my hips and, using different techniques, make my sweater look like it fits at the top better than it actually does.

Here is an excellent link to information about positive ease. PLEASE READ IT AND PUT THE LINK IN YOUR NOTEBOOK. EASE WILL BE A HUGE PART OF THE INFORMATION YOU NEED IF YOU DESIGN DIFFERENT SHAPES AND TYPES OF SWEATERS. THIS SWEATER HAS A FAIR AMOUNT OF POSITIVE EASE BUT AS THERE ARE SO MANY OFYOU, THERE IS NO WAY I CAN GIVE YOU A FIGURE AS TO THE NUMBER OF INCHES NEEDED. YOU WILL CALCULATE AND DECIDE THAT FOR YOURSELF]

http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2013/11/what-is-positive-ease/

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INFORMATION -_ As I have learned over the years what works for my body, I am going to explain my thought process below, so that you can see why I do what I do - and how I solve body shape problems in my own sweaters.

The best type of sweater for ME is the drop sleeve, straight up and down sweater, with very little fit around the waist.

I also figured out a way to make it look like I have a more normal shape, and that is by knitting the bottom section sideways. I can adjust the bottom of the sweater much more easily, doing the knitting sideways so that each edge is the top and bottom. I use short rows to add a bit to the width at the bottom and slowly reduce the width up to the yoke. The wider edge is the bottom of the sweater, the narrower edge is the yoke. When I first started I didn't use many short rows and so I used patterns that were vertical, and the drop sleeve was a great help as it gave me width at the top of the sweater.

. This sweater gives even more of that appearance as the T draws your eye to the top of the sweater rather than the bottom. Also, with worsted, and sport weight (rarely fine yarn) the different textures of the stripes gives it a lot of ease - just like the ribbing in socks and mittens-- So there is a bit of stretch for the bottom half and I can use less ease in the bottom half.

-I only use narrow stripes for my sweaters going either horizontally or vertically. I find that narrow vertical stripes work much better for me than horizontal stripes UNLESS, I AM USING no stripes but plain color at the bottom and wide horizontal stripes at the top to make my top look wider. (I rarely do this as I like my other sweaters better). HOWEVER, one day I decided to knit a sideways, narrow striped, lots of texture group of colors for the bottom of a new sweater. It was my COAT OF MANY COLORS that was successful and it was like a light went on_.

YOu have to THINK ABOUT YOUR BODY SHAPE and ask yourself, How can I help hide the differences so that my body looks more the way I want it to. 
It took a lot of hits or misses for me but I always knew I had to add pattern at the top with little or no activity at the bottom when I knit an ordinary sweater, OR use vertical narrow textured stripes which took the eye up my body to the yoke area .

So-- take a good look at hourself in the mirror without too many clothes on. Mark down your shape - I am a pear shape, others are straight up and down, others are heavy with no waist, others are heavy with a definite waist, write that down in your NOTEBOOK. If you are 'fluffy' you will have to take that into consideration, if you are tall and slender (I wish), you will have a wider variety of choices as to what you can wear. If you are top heavy (busty) that has to be considered, If you are very slight - you adjust. If you have a small waist but bigger hips and top you have to adjust for that too. (if any of you are that shape, ask me for some ways to help your design.)

_ Another thing I do is change the neckline colour and put a collar on the sweater a different colour in order to draw the eye to my top. I TRY TO VARY THE TOPS OF MY SWEATERS EVEN THOUGH I only use two general patterns. The DROP SLEEVE ( both cardigan and pullover }and the TOP DOWN
CARDIGAN_. although I will talk about it at the end of the class when we are finished with the drop sleeve[/color].

 We want to get you started. The thing is, the results are worth the learning curve in my opinion.
------------ I have always felt at home with colour - if you don't you will have to take that into consideration.

I would strongly suggest that you check out

Our CONVERSATION ABOUT COLOR -

http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-264434-1.html

CONVERSATION ABOUT TEXTURE ;

http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-267862-1.html

I believe that EVERYONE who knits would get ideas from both of these workshops. It is so useful to use both in your knitting. These two workshops will help everyone learn about color - including quilters and others who work with color and texture.


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## Designer1234

*GETTING STARTED*

Please take the time to copy the measurement chart I have posted here. I realize that some of the measurements will not be used for your shape, but if you knit for other people it might be necessary to fill in the Number shown, depending on their shape..

Write down the exact measurements and when it is time to calculate the stitches you can add the ease. You will change the ease needed on each different sweater- so once you have your measurements. you will open a new page for each project and decide for each what amount of ease you want. (this will take awhile as you are starting out with a loose, straightforward sweater.

For this sweater Don't worry too much about adjusting for the bust. However the information will be really handy if you are busty. You can then search for instructions as to how to make a bustline that is yours and which will work in a sweater for you. This is more important with a fairly tight fitting sweater. Not this one. I would search on line Knitting - how do I adjust for a larger bust?? and you will find information there. this would be necessary if you want a more fitted sweater 

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*This sweater will be knit by casting on the largest number of inches in your measurements plus ease*.

You will divide the total stitches including ease in half - half for the front and half for the back. If you have larger hips you will use your hip measurement plus ease. If you have a larger bust you will use your bust measurement. It is a straight hanging sweater. You can add the ribbing at the bottom when you knit the front and back, or, as I usually do, add the border at the end. (mainly because I like to leave it to the end and sometimes crochet the bottom band or add an accent of color[/u].

The colour will be chosen by you We don't calculate for the waist - at least not for this project. We can decide on that when we are knitting it. This pattern is knit straight like a rectangle. So think in terms of a rectangle no matter what shape you are. You must, therefore use your largest measurement.

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Here is an excellent link giving sizes for all parts of the body. I think you might find it interesting an you can adjust the measurements to your body sizes. I think it will helpful.

http://www.thelavenderchair.com/sizing-charts-for-crochet-and-knitting/

http://www.idiotsguides.com/hobbies-and-crafts/knitting/knitting-how-to-take-measurements-for-your-sweater/

(this is corrected- excellent information and picture)

===============
If you haven't been with me through the information thread- please copy the following chart and use it for your measurements.

*MEASUREMENT CHART -- ALL IMPORTANT MEASUREMENTS SO THAT WE CAN KNIT OUR SWEATERS*.

1. NECK - at least one inch ease .

______________________________________________________________________________

2. HEAD - AT least one inch ease.

_______________________________________________________________________________

3. BUST SIZE - This is important if you are busty

Take measurement in that case,

a. Around the body. 2 " ease - If it is very fitted you can change this. Measure around the largest part.=________________

b. From the mid shoulder over the bust down to the waist (giving 2" ease Measure around the largest part.=________________

This only needs to be taken if you are large busted. Otherwise #1 is all you need.
_____________________________________________________________________________

4. UNDERARM TO mid WAIST - NO EASE - EXACT. =_______________

WAIST TO BOTTOM EDGE (ABOVE A 3 OR 4" BORDER) =_______________

Total both together =_______________

Usually the total will be needed. However fill the information is so that you will have it. Also for someone else you are measuring.

______________________________________________________________________________
=

5. AROUND WAIST. YOU WILL DECIDE ON THE EASE. ______________

IF YOU ARE MAKING A FITTED SWEATER you won't need more than 1.5 - 2" ease. If it is a fairly loose sweater you will put in more ease. -

__________________________________________________
6. Stomach measurement - Not needed by everyone -- However if your stomach is the same or nearly as large as your hips, you might find this measurement handy to have. =__________________________

you will decide on the ease depending on the hip size, waist size and how you want your sweater to fit. Once you have made a sweater you can use it as a guide. That is what we will be talking about in the class.
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7 Hip size (Largest # of stitches which USUALLY BE YOUR CAST ON FOR THE SWEATER. I DIVIDE THE TOTAL NUMBER IN HALF AS I AM DOING THE BACK AND THE FRONT SEPARATELY:

HIP = ______________

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8. under arm to top of cuff -- exact.= Cuff - 3 - 4 inches = Total=

MAKE SURE YOU KNIT THE ARM LONG ENOUGH========================================================================================

*The above measurements are for a drop sleeve "Bottom up sweater". (Adjustments will be made as you knit UP THE SWEATER)*


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## Designer1234

*It will save a lot of work down the road if you find your measurements now and have them in your notebook*


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## Designer1234

*INFORMATION*

Some of you have your swatches and measurements done.

*you will need size 5mm (US8) and 4.5 mm (US 7) NEEDLES .

I always use circulars but I use them for everything.*

]So knit your swatches, using the yarn you have bought. make a swatch for both needles. MARK DOWN IN YOUR NOTEBOOK the number of inches besides the measurement chart. Then do your swatch and calculate the stitches per in for both 5mm (US8) and( 4.5 mm US7) I rarely do a swatch for my edges but as 4.5 is a common needle size, make the two swatches and you will have that needles size already in your notebook which will be helpful if you need them for a different sweater.

Open a page in your notebook for the sweater. Put in Feb.25/2016 / class

Write down your brand - and all the info on the band of the skeins. including yardage, and weight, suggested needle and crochet size .

Then write down the needle size you are using and calculate the stitches per in, in a swatch, (5 - 6" swatch). You might find it differes from the ball information.

YOU WILL USE YOUR CALCULATED INFORMATION

Remember , any new sweater or project using the same type of yarn and the same needles already calculated if you use your note book properly. You will refer to your stitch results and the information will be there permanently.

If you change to a different weight of yarn, do a swatch and enter the same information.

_I have ziploc bag I put my swatches, with the information band attached where I have added my own stitches per inch written on it} you will then have two swatches and they will be different because you are using a different yarn and probably different sized needles._ .


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## Designer1234

It is essential if you are going to knit without a pattern to have at least one NOTEBOOK. _ All the information about your sweater will be entered there - each project will have a complete history of YARN TYPE, YARDAGE, GAUGE SHOWN ON BALL BAND. DATE YOU START PROJECT . and YOUR GAUGE.

Then you will write down your cast on stitch number, your inches you knit , if you put a pattern or a rib in the sweater, anything you have done to make it one of a kind.

In otherwords your stitches per inch multiplied by two (easier to calculate large numbers in case your gauge is -eg. 4 and 1/2 stitches per in - you times two that and you have 9 stitches for every 2 of your inches on your figure_.

I have a place at the back of my workbook (I am on the 4th book by the way) and I have the results of all my swatches with the yarn name and ball info and my own stitches per inch calculation and what size needles I used. 
That way I don't have to do the same yarn twice using one size needles.. I will have it even a year from now. I know it is a hassle but so is knitting a sweater that you don't like because it doesn't fit.because of size differences between the pattern and your shape .

If you have someone you like to knit for , you can take her measurements , do a swatch and enter it into the back of your notebook and you always will have her information Write your measurement , as well as anyone elses measurements in the front of your NOTE BOOK. I have my d's measurements and I can surprise her with a sweater whenever I get the urge.

Children grow, but remember as they get taller they usually don't get thicker so you can do a gauge watch and pretty well know whether you just have to add height [/color][/u]

=====================
*HOW TO DO A STITCH COUNT*.

TAKE the size 8mm (US 8) needles and cast on enough stitches to more than cover 5 inches.

knit the swatch with the pattern you are going to use.

If you are going to use two different stitch patterns or two different yarns, do a swatch of each - (I know- it is a hassle, but do it anyway. It is the basis for your own beautifully fitted sweater!)

Knit it the way you do - don't knit tighter or loser- knit as close to your normal knitting as possible. In the back of your notebook you will enter the results. You will keep- the swatch (I add a note of the yarn name, the yarn gauge (to see the difference) and your stitches per inch - I go by 2 inches as mentioned above. Ask me if there are any questions.

Once you have your swatch knitted (make sure it is at least 5 inches square. then with a hard ruler or the following stitch guide or other stitch calculators-

lay the ruler on your knitting near the center of the swatch (NEVER on the edges) make sure your ruler includes a whole stitch to start. then being careful not to move the ruler , count the number of stitchs for TWO inches.
You might wonder why I say two inches? often times the stitch count for one inch is 4 an 1/2 stitches in an inch - which works out easier to use two inches which would give you 9 stitches for every 2 inch.

See my stitch counter below - it is really handy and I would suggest you find one like it or you check with your yarn supplier as to a gauge counter

It is also perfectly okay to just measure one inch and use it as the base, but remember always that l/2 of a stitch adds up when you are knitting a sweater so you *MUST* use it in your calculations


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## Designer1234

*VERY IMPORTANT*


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## Designer1234

I rarely worry about the row count, but it is a good idea to get into the habit of entering that number in your Note Book as well.

MAKE SURE YOU CALCULATE FOR A BIT OF EASE to your original measurements BEFORE YOU CAST ON and mention it in your notebook. THIS WILL BE ADDED TO YOUR STITCH COUNT FOR THIS SWEATER How much depends on your body shape. This type of sweater doesn't need much. I just a little ease at the bottom row, nowhere else for my body. YOU might have to adjust the amount of ease and that is something you will figure out along this journey.


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## Designer1234

See my stitch counter above - it is really handy and I would suggest you find one like it or you check with your yarn supplier as to a gauge counter.

I am in Canada and I was in Michaels last week and they have one of these stitch counters so it is worth the small price to have one on hand. Also it is important to have a GOOD needle sizer which you should use all the time - sometimes they vary a bit so I use the same every time!


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## Designer1234

*Suggestion* []First, for those who are doing the T shaped short sleeves sweater - you will require two skeins or balls of color B. see picture.

I also have a suggestion, You might decide to knit the bottom sideways which is an easy way to make the bottom of a pullover, and if you want stripes you knit them and they will end up vertical when the side becomes the top.

This works very well for the T pattern.
I do that all the time. Or you will have to divide the main color into two balls so you can knit them from the bottom up with the T in the middle[/color].

*IMPORTANT*  Make sure, especially if you are knitting sideways that you keep track that you don't increase or decrease your stitch number- if you do the bottom or top of your sweater won't be even when you want to put on the yoke I check my stitch number every 3 or 4 rows, especially if I use any yarn overs in my sweater as it is easy to gain a stitch without knowing it.ask me how I know?]

If you do decide to go sideways,you will use the measurement from under the arm to the place where your border starts at the bottom of your sweater, and calculate how many stitches you require for that length

When you have the bottom finished you will 'stand it on end, and use one end for the top and one end for the bottom. You will pick up stitches for the yoke and carry on knitting. You can therefore easily knit the center column without having to split your yarn. That is one time you would need your rows per inch from your swatch. ( However it is just as easy to use a measuring tape - as ease will be included and you don't have to have it absolutely perfect). So measure your self around, divide it in half and then measure your knitting. If you put in a lot of ribbing, don't stretch it to fit, as it will give you lots of ease but will go back to the smaller size) hope this is clear- if not ask me

I LOVE the effect of the tops and bottoms being knitted in different directions. People like to remark on them as they are so different. I will post a few of the pullovers I have done this way


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## Designer1234

This post has been updated.

CALCULATION FOR CAST ON

hips are 48" my stitch count is 3.5 stitches per inch

add 2" ease == 50 inches (25" on front and 25"on back}

25 X 3.5 = 87.5 cast on -- I will round it out to 88 stitches . for front as well as back.

double check -- 50x3.5= 175 total divided by front and back -=87.5 so I am correct.

Now I have to divide the 88 front stitches so that there is a fairly wide band up the center. so each side of the center will have 44 stitches.

_32 +2p_ + *20* +_2p +32_ = 88 stitches.

This will give me 2 purl stitches on each side center section so we will have 34 stitches of the main color on each side (32 stocking stitch and 2 purl stitches before we change color - Same on both sides. total 88


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## mildredL2

I have my measurements and gauge swatch, so am ready to start, but have a question about the bottom:
the sweaters that I have made from the bottom up have started with a band of ribbing or some other edge pattern. If I'm going to do the vertical front (not sideways version) should I first do a band of ribbing, or will that be added later by picking up stitches? I know it would have to be added later if knitting sideways and turning, but not sure about what to do if I knit from bottom up.
Thank you so much! Love this sweater.

GOOD QUESTION.  I usually don't because in a lot of my sweaters I am not sure what kind of border I will want. 
However as you are decided and are following picture then I think starting with the ribbing would be fine.
Personally, I would use the A color for my bands (not the T color). However that is entirely up to you. 
You have to do the border then add the center color when you change to the body pattern No problem at all.


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## mildredL2

Sorry, another question -- when joining colors, is a knot necessary to secure this yarn? From reading previous KP posts about joining, I know that is a forbidden thing! But, having never worked with 100% cotton before, this yarn feels like it would be difficult to secure a join using no knot.
Would appreciate advice, many, many thanks!

That is one of the reasons I suggested the possible use of the sideways knit bottom. You would have all your joins at the end and then weave them in.

* I definitely wouldn't 
knot the join. I am not sure how that join would work with cotton, so I think you should knit the two colors together and leave ends to weave in*.

*IMPORTANT TIP*  I would suggest that when it comes time to weave,* you should split each end into two sections then when you weave in the ends weave them in separately so that if one part of that thread pulls out the other is still attached. You do this with both of the ends you want to weave in*. It isn't as noticeable and much safer than just weaving the whole threads in. I have found this very useful, and it bunches up so much less. Give it a try, ladies!


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## PaKnitter

My 2 questions are...what cast on to use? And should the first stitch be a slip stitch?

I knit the first stitch of every row. There are lots of different ways by different members.

I have heard recently that the slip stitch works even better
I haven't tried it yet. So use whichever one you wish

I think most of us have a favorite cast on. I use the cable cast on most often and use a larger cast on needle
{one or two sizes larger) There are so many cast ons , and as I rarely use patterns I don't worry. If it seems too tight I use an even larger needle. I do like the cable cast on as it is smooth.


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## NanaW

NanaW said:


> Ok I already have a question. I got 4.5 stitches using size 8 needles. I think I start at the bottom and it is 42 inches with the ease added in. I got 39 in. when I measured the hip . I found a sweater I liked and it was 42in. Do I cast on 42 x 4.5 to get 189. Then do I divide by 2 to get 95 st. for each side?
> 
> As you have included some ease, your stitch count sounds good. YES you divide the stitch count by 2 - one set for the front and one set for the back.
> 
> You will cast on 95 stitches. YES. I did the calculations and I rounded out the l/2 stitch to 95 stitches. That is your cast on number for each of the front and the back. If the one you like has the same stitches that is great. It means you are spot on .
> 
> However if there was a wider #of stitches in the bust, you would calculate using THAT number.
> 
> If your hip measurement is your widest part then you are correct and away you go. If you are using the T you will have to calculate the two different colors. you will decide how wide you want it - Or you can eyeball it like I did. I would make sure the two outside areas are even stitches. As you have an uneven stitch count add the extra stitch in the center part. Hope this helps. DID you put the information in your notebook?


Thank you. I wanted to be sure before I started. I am still not where to go from here. Yes, I wanted the yellow one.

you will decide the number of stitches for the center T .

If you look at my calculations it shows how I did it -

#1 = divide the number of stitches by two - put a marker in the cener of the sweater (you will put it in the extra stitch as you have an uneven number.

#2 - decide how wide you want your center T which will go up from the bottom to the yoke.

(I worked out from the center - making sure I had an even # of stitches in the center block (color B). as you have an extra stitch you should add the same # of stitches on both sides of the center stitch. You will decide how many.

You are welcome to use my calculations, adding the extra number between my count and yours - dividing it between the two outside ends. You will also include in that number 2 or 3 (whichever you wish) purl stitches so that your color is separated from the outside with purl, as if you were going to add a cable. I just took a picture - some of these things are hard to explain as I just DO IT. (I hope you will understand my instructions, if you don't -please post and I will try to make it clearer. I don't follow patterns and I don't write my own. I start without know where I am going. (weird, I know) but that is what this class is about.


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## Nicholas81

Hi Shirley - my first time at this -- I have calculated for CO: 44 hips + 2" ease = 46 (23" front and 23" back)
23" X 4 stitches to inch = 92 CO each for front and back
46x4 = 184 divided by 2 = 92 (double ck - ok)
92 stitches divided evenly right and left front = 46 ea
decision to make a 24st center front -- 92-24=68 divided by 2 = 34 stitches each side of center.

Redid my measurements and put everything into my notebook.

My stitch count on #7 was 4.5 and on #8 - 4

Am I on target? and if so - what's my next step?

Wait - looks as though - I just looked at your last post -- I didn't add or subtract (whichever I need to) for the 2p on each side of center section. Is that 2 of the stitches I have already counted for the center section?

Shelia

 No I take them from the outside color - check out my last post as I am posting a picture which will clarify how I set up the T color.


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## marchar

Just checking...since I am bigger on top I am planning on using bust of 40 in. + 2 " ease for the entire length.

My swatch for Size 8 needle is 4 st/inch. So 42 inches x 4= 168
Divide by 2 for back and front is 84 st each. 
Hope this is correct so far

That sounds right. Are you putting a T in the front? if so you will calculate it the same way. Just don't make your strip very wide as it would accentuate your bust. I think the number of stitches I used in mine would work well. I need to increase my bust width (by ease) and you might find the stitch number would work for you.

*If you are not sure, I would look up a free pattern with that center part knitted in a vertical stripe and see what stitch count they used in comparison to the width of the sweater.

This is one of the things I can't really help you all with. The width of the center strip varies for choice and size . If you aren't sure, make the stripe a bit smaller than the side pieces. I think it will work okay. Don't make it too narrow, around 16 - 24 stitches would likely work well generally. you will have to decide. One way is to make some paper strips different widths the length of your top and hold them up the center of your body. you will get an idea of how they would look*.


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## ladydog

I was going to do the seed stitch up the middle and have my swatch, but before I begin What are the names of the stitches that you like in the 'T' ? If you give the names I can check them out on the site you recommended.
I love that you are walking us through this process. Thank you, Sharon

 I will look up the patterns and post them shortly


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## williesmom

I'm not sure I have enough yarn, so would like to cast on for the whole sweater and knit in the round, dividing at the armholes. That way, if I run out of yarn, I can make it a sleeveless vest instead of a sleeved sweater. Does that work?

I haven't tried this sweater in the round but I imagine it would work. I have to admit I like the under arm seam as it doesn't move around. It would likely work out fine. - I realize that most of our students are good knitters and know a lot more than I do. I have to aim this at beginners and changes can be made whenever you wish if you feel they will improve what you do. In this case it would likely work okay.


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## marchar

Oops. Stitch count for size 8 is 7.5 for 2 in. So 3.25 for 1 in. 
42 x 3.25 is 136.5. Rounded to 137 and divided by 2. Got 68 and fraction. Rounded up to 69.

Now I hope it is right

 looks right to me!


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## Nicholas81

Are we all going to start the actual knitting about the same time? This sideways knitting thing has thrown me for a loop - doesn't take much sometimes.  Just let me know so that I am not the only one waiting in anticipation of start.

Thanks and blessings
Shelia

We are going to start when each of us is ready. I will be back in a minute and explain how you set up the side by side knitting. Personally I like the look a lot and use that all the time for my sweaters as with my figure it is easier to knit a wider bottom (at one end ) using short rows added to the end that will be the bottom - (adding the same short rows at the same end each end. I have posted a picture in the previous page. I will come back in a few minutes and help you
.


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## Designer1234

J-Jean said:


> I like the idea of a border. What stitch did you use for the border and how many inches did you make the border?


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## nhallman

I am ready to add the center color. Do I carry my main color behind the center color or do I make a different ball of main color yarn and attach it when I get all my center stitches done?

I don't think it is a good idea to work your colors in - I would definitely make a second ball of the main color - however, if you knit your front bottom sideways it will be much easier as far as using the colors. YOu would knit the first side, first, then knit the centre strip, and then knit the furthest strip. you would then turn it up so the ends are at the top and you will then add the yoke. If you are going to do it bottom up you will need two balls. so you would have to make a ball for the second side. so that is a decision we all have to make.

I will be spending some time talking how to set up the sideways bottom. I really like that effect and it will mean that your sweater won't be the usual top, it will be original. You can also use one color and put different groups of rows different textures, the possibilities increase so much by doing it this way.

HOWEVER I knit this example sweater top up. I hadn't even discovered how doing the bottom sideways would be so helpful for my shape (it will work with ANY shape by the way


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## weteach4ulinda

Since I did not want any extra seams around the bottom to add to the 'girth' I did 2 1/2 inches of 2x2 ribbing. I am using just one color so I have decided to do a pattern (K 1 row, P 1 row, K 1 row, P 1 row and K 2 rows). It adds a subtle pattern. Like it so far. Lindas That is great. keep us informed. Knit it up until it is under your arms and let me know as that is where you will change the yoke so that the top is all the T stitch, it will carry on across the top. . Let us know how you are doing and if you are having any problem - please ask for help


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## Nicholas81

nhallman said:


> I am ready to add the center color. Do I carry my main color behind the center color or do I make a different ball of main color yarn and attach it when I get all my center stitches done?


Hi - did you knit both side fronts and then do the center separately? I haven't a clue what I am doing here -- just looking for some guidance. Novice - I am.

Shelia

Don't worry about being a novice. I knew that there are a lot of new knitters doing this class and I am glad.

No I said you will need two balls of the outside yarn so that you can attach them to the center strip at the bottom and change your color at the same place each row. so, you can take the time to roll another ball from the main color yarn, so that you can knit both together. 
---
If you are a new knitter I would consider doing it the other way (knitting the sides as the bottom and changing it when the bottom is finished so that it is turned so one side is where you attach the yoke.) I would suggest that you wait for a few minutes and I will explain the way to do that in detail.


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## Designer1234

ladydog said:


> I was going to do the seed stitch up the middle and have my swatch, but before I begin What are the names of the stitches that you like in the 'T' ? If you give the names I can check them out on the site you recommended.
> I love that you are walking us through this process. Thank you, Sharon
> 
> _ Here are 3 or 4 patterns I would work into the front strip and I think they would be very nice. These four patterns would look very nice . however you could also use a seed stitch, just being careful that it doesn't stretch too much- It didn't for my cotton sweaters but when using acrylics It did.
> 
> -REMEMBER you will have to incorporate the stitch count into your center strip._
> 
> #1 top picture knit the pattern lst row, - then the next row you knit where the purl stitches are and purl the knit stitches. then knit for 4 rows or 5 or as many as you wish, then do them aGAIN. LOOK AT THE PATTERN- you can change it by changing the number of stitches. this one looks very nice and it is simple
> I used this one on the sleeves of one of my sweaters - it is simple and very nice.
> ------------
> #2 This is my favorite - no caluclations to make and it looks really nice. you will carry it on across the whole top (when you get to the yoke, or you can break up the long rows with a 2 p 4 or 6 knit across the yoke. I think you can wait to decide that when you get to the top of the verical bar. I really think this one would work well, whichever way you do the pattern.
> 
> #3 The basket weave is an easy pattern and you can do variations of it. shorten the purl rows, or the knit rows or do it like it is. The only thing you will have to make sure of, however that the pattern ends up the same on each side. (4 stitches (it doesn't matter with it is a purl square or a knit square. However it is quite possible that it will still look okay. Remember people looking at the sweater see the overall pattern rarely (unless it is another knitter) do they notice idiocyncracies in the pattern,( just my experience). I am not a worrier. Anything different is a 'DESIGN ELEMENT' and if anyone notices any thing I just tell them that it is a design element - they beam and say how great the sweater is and are quite happy. I am not overly
> picky, and I am not concerned too much whether everything matches. Some people find that very very important which is great. that is my mantra with knitting - to each his own.
> 
> However, by joining this class a lot of hard and fast rules are not written in stone. I love to change things. If you can handle doing that, then this is a really successful class.
> 
> I don't mean I want a glaring error left. YOu do have to balance things that need to be balanced, as much as possible.The difference is I don't think it is as important to have perfection as many knitters do -( am not knocking anyone who is fussier than I am - I just like have my stuff 'different' .
> 
> #4 The ripple pattern is the most difficult. If you are uncertain what you are doing I would do this one once you have a bit more experience. It would look lovely, but the calculations might be a bit overwhelming and I want this class to be as simple as possible, so that people are not turned off
> For experienced knitters you can make all these decisions completely on your own. I will be interested to see what every comes up with.


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## glnwhi

Hi Shirley, I would really like to do this but there is quite a bit of difference in my stomach and rear than in the shoulder I am a 22-24 in the top and 26-28 in stomach and rear (everything went south) do you think it possible for me to make one?

 That is much like my shape. My top is always much less so I find this pattern (drop sleeve sweater] is an excellent pattern for my shape.

Use your largest length - could be the stomach or the hip.cast on a small amount of ease

before you decide, run your measuring tape around your lardest area and add enough so that it would be comfortable. You would likely want at least three inches for the whole sweater front and back -- so a I would add 1.5 inches (add that number of stitches to your cast on number. MARK IT DOWN IN YOUR NOTEBOOK. SO THAT YOU WILL KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING WHEN IT COMES TO THE BACK. You will do the same for the back.

Knit straight up. It will seem large for your top, for this sweater with the T shape, it will likely suit you quite well as with the yoke going down over the shoulder quite a ways, then adding a short sleeve after that it will look okay.

We will still have to decide on our neck but we are a long way from there . Once you get ready to increase the second color to make the yoke (I did mine when I reached the underarm spot.) let me know and I will help you . So once you have your rectangle long enough to go up to your underarm let me know. (you can decided whether you add the bottom border or not now]. Make sure if you don't add it at the beginning , that you do it the length under arm to the TOP of the bottom border. If you are starting with the border knitted, then include the whole length you want for the top.


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## Designer1234

Well ladies, I will check out that I didn't miss anything. If you have a problem, post your question and I will answer it in an hour or so when I come back. It has been a long day and I hope you are all satisfied with the information you have received.

I promised I would talk about knitting sideways. Sorry I didn't get to it - I promise I will be back in a little while and go through the whole method with you. *I also would like to know if this is making sense to you.If it isn't please tell me -- It is hard to teach something that is not specific*. However, I love doing sweaters this way, and I think you might, if you take the time to really figure out the methods, you will find it opens a lot of new doors. I will be back in a little while and will go over knitting the sideways bottom of our sweater. Shirley


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## KnitnNat

You are making perfect sense to me. I cast on 90 sts.
35-20-35----35 in st. 20 in garter 35 in st. is this ok.
Do I need to be slipping the first stitch?
Thank you so very much .

You certainly can, either slip the first (you will attach it to the back under the arm so it helps if you have a neat edge.


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## Designer1234

*HOW TO KNIT THE BOTTOM OF A SWEATER SIDEWAYS AND WHAT YOU GAIN BY DOING THAT*.

I have been talking about a process I use for my sweaters, which is great for my shape, and will work well for each and every one of us if we decide we want to use it.

First of all, why would we bother?
Answer: first of all it works exceptionally well for some shapes.

It is easier to knit and control the size, it is easier to make narrow areas of interesting stitches which will be slimming when it is turned with the sides across the top and bottom.

Texture is so much fun to do, but we don't want it to add pounds to the look of our sweater. Narrow areas of texture work extremely well. I have always used this technique with color, but I feel I have used enough color for now so my next sweater will be something different. (possible only one color with different vertical textures).

It is much easier for this sweater with the T shape to do the bottom section. You will start at one side and knit each section - you will be knitting across the 'BOTTOM' which will actually be the sides. so if you add the center of the T you would just add the rows after you finish the first color, then when your T is wide enough (your choice in inches) you start knitting with the original main color. You have your center piece knitted with no necessity of having to have two balls, and once you get the right size you will turn it on end, (once you have cast off.

I will talk of ways to shape this section of the sweater so that for people like me (I would add short rows to give the bottom more size and slowly reduce the other side which will become the yoke. look carefully at the first picture. you will see that if the top part is turned on end, with the wider side at the bottom it will give a flare at the bottom which works well for people with my shape. The adjustments are always worked on the SIDES OF THE back although they are knitted as if one end is wider than the other. (see top picture).

***It also works very well, if I start the sweater the size I want for the bottom, then I would slowly decrease the rows to reduce the number of stitches at the yoke. This would depend on what you are trying to accomplish and that would depend on your shape.

Then look at the second part of #1 - the bottom piece has been turned up with the narrower part at the top.

We will pick up our stitches from the top and cast on the yoke stitches. I often put a nice ribbing across the join and that will be your choice.

#2 picture shows a different way of doing the top. I often join the bottom and the yoke with a 4 row rib. If anyone is interested in what the stitches are for my favorite ribs I will happily post them for you. (the rib can also be added if you are knitting the rectangle style (not the side knitted style.)

Then you could do your yoke the same color as the bottom and add a rib, either colored or the same yarn as the rest (this wiould give you texture, but not a different color). I have used this in different ways so many times I can't begin to count.

The last picture tonight is the same general idea as the workshop sweater - I just added some other textures and I loved it . So did everyone - however I made it far too big for me. So I have a friend who goes to our Seniors center who has a new, original sweater and she is thrilled.

*NOTE*: It is also important that you know that this technique can be used for ALL shapes. I really think it is different and it is useful, and to me it makes sense. I am not suggesting everyone should use this method for all sweaters. However the only type I use differently is a basic top down cardigan pattern which I make my own by adding different colors or texture. The bottom two sweaters are examples.

.
=================================


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## Designer1234

I will write up exact suggestions tomorrow when I get up. I have to think about the best way to get the information written clearly.

I hope I have given you all something to think about today. We have covered a lot of information.

If anyone is having trouble deciding what they should do,or if someone is running into difficulty, post and I will answer when I join you tomorrow.


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## run4fittness

Everything is making sense to me. It is giving me a lot of food for thought for other projects also. Thank you!

I appreciate your thoughts and reaction.People have been asking me on and off since I joined the workshops to explain my feelings and why and how I do the things I do. As there are very few rules and as I never know when I start what I am going to end up with it is hard to describe how I do things as no two are the same.

It is the decision "What do I do next" and do I want a pattern, or do I want a rib across, or do I want it plain on this portion of the sweater" that is the difficult part of doing things my way. But I want you to try some of your ideas.

I hope you will jump in and try the sideways bottom. You will find it so easy, and so logical.

There are more and more written patterns using it - but still people feel uneasy about doing something so different.


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## tami_ohio

marchar said:


> Just checking...since I am bigger on top I am planning on using bust of 40 in. + 2 " ease for the entire length.
> 
> My swatch for Size 8 needle is 4 st/inch. So 42 inches x 4= 168
> Divide by 2 for back and front is 84 st each.
> Hope this is correct so far
> 
> That sounds right. Are you putting a T in the front? if so you will calculate it the same way. Just don't make your strip very wide as it would accentuate your bust. I think the number of stitches I used in mine would work well. I need to increase my bust width (by ease) and you might find the stitch number would work for you.
> 
> If you are not sure, I would look up a free pattern with that center part knitted in a vertical stripe and see what stitch count they used in comparison to the width of the sweater.
> 
> This is one of the things I can't really help you all with. The width of the center strip varies for choice and size . If you aren't sure, make the stripe a bit smaller than the side pieces. I think it will work okay. Don't make it too narrow, around 16 - 24 stitches would likely work well generally. you will have to decide. * One way is to make some paper strips different widths the length of your top and hold them up the center of your body. you will get an idea of how they would look*.


I like the visual the paper strips will give to decide how wide the center T should be! I am much more of a visual learner.

I have taught a couple of people this sweater since Imoved here and used the strips as she couldn't visualize the different T strip size for the front. She called me the other day and says she has used that when she is adding a stripe to an ordinary pattern as she really likes the stripe up the center for her body shape. One happy camper.


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## tami_ohio

tami_ohio said:


> I did my swatches last night. Size 7 needles I get 10 sts = 2" and 13 rows = 2". On size 8 needles 9 sts = 2", and 12 rows = 3". Bust is 52" total without ease.
> 
> Hips are 58.5" + 2" ease = 60.5/2 = 30.25 Correct? I am math challenged! LOL. Do I round it up to 31 sts to cast on or round down? Also want to just to a straight stockinette stitch for the center T, no seed stitch. The 2 purl sts either side of the center is fine. I think it will set it off nicely, just not in the mood for seed stitch! I am thinking I will start with about 2" of ribbing in the main color on size 7 needles.
> 
> I think I want the center (white) to be 4". I am getting confused with my numbers. It is 10:40PM. And time for me to go make DH's lunch for work in the morning. If you would kindly walk me thru the math, I will look at it again in the morning.
> 
> Edited to add: the more I have read, the more I am inclined to do the bottom knitted sideways. I am using Bernat Reflections, which is shades of blue and white. They will go horizontally if I knit it bottom to top, I think, by looking at my swatch. I think I will like it better knitted sideways so the colors will go more vertically.
> =====================================
> *ANSWER I WILL GIVE YOU MY CALCULATIONS FOR BOTH*
> 
> KNIT BOTTOM UP:
> 
> size 8 needles
> 
> 9stitches = 2 inches -= 4.5 stitches p/inch
> 
> Divide your total inches by 2 = 30 inches for back
> 
> 30 X 4.5 =135 is your cast on number - You will have to decide how wide you want your strip and calculate the stitches.
> ---------------------------
> 
> KNIT BOTTOM SIDEWAYS.
> 
> CALCULATE the stitches needed for knitting side ways. -* use underarm to top of border (border is not included) measurement and multiply by stitches per inch. *
> 
> Take the #of inches from your measurements from under the arm to the top of your lower border (which will be knitted later.
> 
> (I always pick up my bottom border at the end when I am finishing my sweater) this makes it much easier when you knit sideways.
> -----
> Calculate the #of inches X 4.5 - - you will have your cast on stitch number. You will knit across your bottom area and you can easily measure how much you need. it would be 30 inches. So once you include the length from under arm to top of border - (it will be less than the above calculation).
> 
> It is extremely important to keep on checking the number of stitches you cast on , as if you increase or decrease in error it will cause a wave in the edge and will not look good (ask me how I know) so every 4 or 5 (at the most, rows, count your stitches. If you do both sides will be even, straight and one side won't be different than the other UNLESS you are adding inches by short rows to increase the width of the bottom. Make sure if you do that, that you only increase on one end of your knitting so it will have a flare. Then do the same for the back.
> 
> Once you have the #of stitches you can knit what you wish using whatever size you want the center section as you will be knitting it sidesways. So fill in that number. Start with your main color, knit it as wide as you want - change to the T color -knit the width you want the T and then change back to the main color.
> 
> I am doing a rough drawing to show what will happen
> 
> SO REMEMBER - TO KNIT SIDEWAYS YOU WILL USE THE
> MEASUREMENT FROM UNDER THE ARMS TO THE TOP OF THE BOTTOM BAND. This will mean fewer stitches than the knit from the bottom up.
> 
> Keep on knitting until you have the right width for the bottom - (under arm to under arm)


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## mildredL2

Can't figure out how to do this yet -- I did the bottom band in main color, continued with main color for one side,then joined contrast color for the center panel, then joined another ball of main color for the other side. But, as I continue additional rows, changing yarn as I go, the center panel is not attached to the sides. Can you please tell me what I'm doing wrong?
If I continue this way, the center panel would need to be seamed to the sides.
I appreciate your explanation of how to do the sideways version, and may change to that method, but I am sure there is some obvious thing that I can't figure out about the vertical method, and would love to know how to do it.
Thank you for your help.

it sounds as if you are not twisting them together. When you knit a row and you add a color you have to twist the new color around the old then continue knitting in the new color until you get to the main color on the other side, then (each and every row) you twist the new color Once) around the old so that it holds the old color. If you don't understand what I am saying - search on u tube (I use google search) and type in HOW DO I CHANGE COLORS ON A KNITTING ROW SO THAT THERE IS NO HOLE? There should be lots of videos and information there. basically you want to keep the two colors attached every time you change colors.)


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## aquaciser1

how often will the next steps be posted? I have swatched and calculated how many stitches I will need per my measurements

If you are knitting straight up and have two balls of the main color you can start knitting now. The calculations are shown already. If you are going to knit the bottom sideways I just finished posting the calculations and will continue giving a bit more information.* The side knitting will mean you will calculate the number of stitches you will need for the length from under the arm to the top of the bottom band (your band will be added later)*.

I think there is enough information to start knitting as soon as you calculate your stitches.


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## Conchalea

mildredL2 said:


> Can't figure out how to do this yet -- I did the bottom band in main color, continued with main color for one side,then joined contrast color for the center panel, then joined another ball of main color for the other side. But, as I continue additional rows, changing yarn as I go, the center panel is not attached to the sides. Can you please tell me what I'm doing wrong?
> If I continue this way, the center panel would need to be seamed to the sides.
> I appreciate your explanation of how to do the sideways version, and may change to that method, but I am sure there is some obvious thing that I can't figure out about the vertical method, and would love to know how to do it.
> Thank you for your help.


Conchalea wrote
I made sure to 'catch' the old yarn & twist it with the new so the panels would connect as one. Do this all the way up the sweater to keep it all connected. It twists the balls of yarn, but I found that moving the center ball at the end of a row helped with this. 
See how the turquoise intertwined with the purple? This is how I did it on my first attempt & it worked well to connect the parts. See my post above for why it's very small now. I had to rip & redo.


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## AKnitWit

I have completed measurements, swatches, calculations as follows:
Hip measurement 40" + 2 = 42"
Divided by 2 = 21
Swatch gauge 4.25 per inch.

4.25 x 42 = 178.5 rounded to 180 
Divide by 2 for front and back= 90 stitches for CO.

32+2+22+2+32 = 90 (this gives me approximately 5 inch wide T.

This calculation is correct- make sure yuou mark it down in your notebook so you will do the same on the back and in future sweaters using the same weight and needle size.

Am I on the right track? yes you are

My brain doesn't grasp knitting sideways. First how many do I CO?

*YOU MEASURE FROM UNDER YOUR ARM TO THE TOP OF THE BOTTOM BAND .and then calculate by multiplying the # of stitches per stitches per inch on your swatch*. You will have fewer stitches to cast on but it makes your designing much easier. It works well for the T shape too.

NOTE: you will find that there are less caston stitches when you are knitting sideways. However it gives you the opportunity to add texture and color which will show up vertically and is much more attractive and slimming than having the texture done horizontally.

In this one you can do whatever design you wish and it works out very well for the T pattern as you don't have to split your main color into two balls

I hope lots of people will try knitting the bottom sideways just to see if you think you can use it in your knitting. This is the place to jump in and go for it.


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## aquaciser1

Duh!!! It just dawned on me to check for more pages. Going to try to wrap my head around knitting sideways😄

It is actually easier than knitting up. you can put in a couple of rows on yarn overs and then knit and then add another couple of rows of another stitch pattern, or use the yarn/overs again and when you turn it you will have lovely vertical designs going up to the yoke. It is so easy and I love the results I get. It is so much fun.


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## Ctown Nana

Hi Shirley WOW--lots of wonderful information!! I think I would like to try the sideways bottom with suggested short rows. I am using just one color [a variegated cotton] and will do different stitch variations across the bottom section. Not to be a pain, but will you be able to explain how to do the short rows. I have done these before, but only with pattern directions. I love your sweaters and thank you for all your time and effort!

I will find a link and post it.I think one of the things you will all have to do is SEARCH for information on the internet.} I use google but there are other places you can use) in this case I would ask HOW DO I KNIT SHORT ROWS FOR THE BOTTOM SIDES OF A SWEATER. I think it is nice to have a short row with a wrap in order to make sure you don't end up with a hole where you increase before turning around and knitting back. I will post it separately in a few minutes.


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## proflewis

Hi Shirley Making a straight up knit with 2X2 ribbing for the bottom band. Would I do this with a #7 needle or a #8 needle?Thanks

I usually do my bands with the smaller needles. I rarely ever do them first but I usually do my bottom section sideways.

I would try using the smaller size. you will use it on the neck band too as well as the sleeve cuffs if you were going to do a full length or 3/4 sleeve with a cuff. In our case you wouldn't need it on the short sleeve. Hope this helps.


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## AKnitWit

Thanks! Next question: How do I incorporate the ribbing I would like to have on the bottom?

Are you knitting the bottom sideways? If you are, I always leave it to the end and by that time it will finish off the sweater. I also do all around the sweater when the back and fronts are sewn together. I rarely knit the bottom border separately. I personally would add the bottom ribbing at the end when the sweater is fully finished. I would avoid having to sew the sides together.

It is up to the knitter entirely

*IMPORTANT*

Keep track of your stitches make sure you keep the number of stitches correct. sometimes if you are doing a yarnover or other stitch you might not realize you have added or lost a stitch (ask me how I know). It is essential, as the sides of your knitting will need to be even and straight, as other stitches will be added to both the sides when you turn it.

I often use a different color marker every 20 or 30 stitches so that I can tell if I am on track. I neglected to put this in my other post on this subject. It is important.


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## Designer1234

LADIES: I have been trying to think of ways to make it easier for you to see what the basic idea of my sweaters is. I am going to take the time to show you how 90% of my pullovers are made. It doesn't matter if it is a short sleeve pattern like the one we are using , or a pattern like my tunic.

These are pullover ideas which is the subject of this class

Here is a picture showing the tunic I just recently finished. I knit the bottom sideways, turned it (I use increases for one end.


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## Designer1234

*INFORMATION SHORT ROWS * 
-------------------
Here are 3 links to information and instructions as to how to knit short rows:

http://www.purlsoho.com/create/2008/06/18/short-rows/

http://new.knotions.com/techniques/how-to-knit-short-rows/

http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-wrap-and-turn.html
---------------------

I googled 'How do I knit short rows) and there were lots and lots of links .

The explain them better than I do. I would definitely use the short rows with a wrap so that there will be no hole where you turn the knitting in the middle of the row. I suggest you keep these links in your note book. There might be others you like better. I hope these really help


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## Kateydid

Hi Shirley. I've gotten so engrossed in making this sweater that I forgot to say thank you for doing this. The bottom ribbing is done and I've started with the center panel. Had to look at You Tube to figure out how to change colors mid row. Took awhile for this brain to comprehend what was happening, but the light bulb finally went on. Also all your instructions are clear and helpful. Thank you!
============
Iam glad that all this information is making sense. It is a difficult workshop to teach as you are starting without any written information. These are just the way I do things . People have been asking me for quite some time to do a workshop and I was hesitating because I wasn't sure that I would be able to explain my reasons and my methods, clearly enough. Thank you for your kind words.
-----------------------------------------------------------
Our next portion will be what we do when we are ready to do the yoke. So once your knitting of the bottom either method is finished, let me know. I don't want anyone to feel rushed.
--------------------------------------------------
For those experienced knitters I hope you are enjoying this process. You likely know more about knitting in some ways than I do. However I have developed these methods which work for me and I think with other bodies that are not a perfect size. Even those that are - it doesn't matter- you just do the same things with less need for special calculations.

I am not going into my body calculations too much except to mention the short rows in the skirt portion.

*INFORMATION*

If you are quite busty, even though this information won't be of much value in this loose top, I would strongly urge you to search *how do I adjust my knitted sweater top as I am large busted?*" see what you get as far as information.

I know that my friend uses short rows but I wouldn't dare try to tell anyone how to do that. I think if you ask a search engine to let you also know you will really get some help to make a more fitted sweater -

I still recommend using the sideways bottom. I think it would be helpful to have the bottom stripes a wee bit wider than mine and make sure you use very little texture over the bust. We have to do what makes us feel comfortable. I have the problem of having too much fabric at the top to balance my body - you will fill that space which is a good thing in any ways.

JUST MY OPINION HERE. I don't know of anyone who is absolutely happy with their body shape. I used to hate mine when I was a teenager and in my twenties. then I decided it was absolutely wasted time to spend my life worrying about something I have no control over. I do what I can with my knitting to look as well as possible and I don't worry about it at all now.


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## J-Jean

J -JEAN WROTE: *Also, Craftsy offers a free short rows class. Just sign up at Craftsy.com It is free to join. The class is excellent and has downloadable materials for later reference*.

 I really appreciate us having this information and I thank you very much -it is so good to add it to this workshop.


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## Designer1234

Well ladies, I think most of you are in the knitting part. Knit the length you need from under the arm down. (Some times I knit my yoke higher than that, but we are looking for a simple way to do things on here so you might be wise to just use the under arm and start the yoke then. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE WRITTEN ALL THE INFORMATION ABOUT THIS IN YOUR NOTEBOOK. I WOULD ALSO WRITE THE LINK so that you can pick up where you might be having difficulty. It will be here permanently.


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## Designer1234

A knit wit Question: If I knit sideways how do I incorporate the border?

I would leave the border until the sweater is done - I really think you would be best to do this. I do it last. That way I can decide what I want to do for it. either a pattern, or a plain garter stitch or whatever.

If you are starting at the bottom you can decide you can add your border when you start. However, personally I always wait to do the bottom border last or at least last after the full body is finished


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## weteach4ulinda

I am doing a bottom up sweater with one color and with a little pattern I described before. My question is do I have to stop and make a yoke? Can I do as most sweaters. bind off for a couple of rows and continue as a yoke. I have more inches to knit so I can wait for an answer til I return. Isn't is crazy the amount of questions you get? I taught knitting classes and I wanted to groan if I had one more question. But that is what teachers do. I taught kindergarten for years. ??????forever. Linda


First of all though is everyone okay doing the bottom portion. I will be talking about preparing for the yoke in both the T sweater knit ordinarily and how to attach the side knitted bottom and put a yarn grouping of 4 inches, to change from one part of the sweater to another. Meanwhile if you have any questions, now is the time.

* I just realized I didn't answer your question about whether you can carry on.*

On this pattern we don't do anything but KNIT STRAIGHT UP TO THE SHOULDER. The shape is rectangle with the narrow part of theknitted rectangle at the top and bottom.) We also have to consider where we want to stop knitting the yoke to include the cast offs for the neck.


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## tami_ohio

tami_ohio said:


> tami_ohio said:
> 
> 
> 
> I did my swatches last night. Size 7 needles I get 10 sts = 2" and 13 rows = 2". On size 8 needles 9 sts = 2", and 12 rows = 3". Bust is 52" total without ease.
> 
> Hips are 58.5" + 2" ease = 60.5/2 = 30.25 Correct? I am math challenged! LOL. Do I round it up to 31 sts to cast on or round down? Also want to just to a straight stockinette stitch for the center T, no seed stitch. The 2 purl sts either side of the center is fine.
> 
> Edited to add: the more I have read, the more I am inclined to do the bottom knitted sideways. I am using Bernat Reflections, which is shades of blue and white. They will go horizontally if I knit it bottom to top, I think, by looking at my swatch. I think I will like it better knitted sideways so the colors will go more vertically.
> 
> ANSWER I WILL GIVE YOU MY CALCULATIONS FOR BOTH[/b]
> 
> KNIT BOTTOM UP:
> 
> size 8 needles
> 
> 9stitches = 2 inches -= 4.5 stitches p/inch
> 
> Divide your total inches by 2 = 30 inches for back
> 
> 30 X 4.5 =135 is your cast on number - You will have to decide how wide you want your strip and calculate the stitches.
> ---------------------------
> 
> KNIT BOTTOM SIDEWAYS.
> 
> CALCULATE the stitches needed for knitting side ways. -* use underarm to top of band measurement and multiply by stitches per inch. *
> 
> Take the #of inches from your measurements from under the arm to the top of your lower band (I always pick up my bottom border at the end when I am finishing my sweater) this makes it much easier when you knit sideways.
> 
> Calculate the #of inches X 4.5 - - you will have your cast on stitch number. You will knit across your bottom area and you can easily measure how much you need. it would be 30 inches. So once you include the length from under arm to top of border - (it will be less than the above calculation).
> 
> Once you have the #of stitches you can knit what you wish using whatever size you want the center section as you will be knitting it sidesways. So fill in that number. Start with your main color, knit it as wide as you want - change to the T color -knit the width you want the T and then change back to the main color.
> 
> I am doing a rough drawing to show what will happen
> 
> SO REMEMBER - TO KNIT SIDEWAYS YOU WILL USE THE
> MEASUREMENT FROM UNDER THE ARMS TO THE TOP OF THE BOTTOM BAND. This will mean fewer stitches than the knit from the bottom up.
> 
> Keep on knitting until you have the right width for the bottom - (under arm to under arm)
> 
> 
> 
> You will have the width around in your measurements and just add some ease - it depends on how tight you want it. Obviously you have considered ease an I am really pleased you are going for it. You mjght nevr knit a bottom up lower half of a pullover again.
> We will start the yoke discussion soon so everyone wait at the underarm so we can discuss what the different ideas are.
> ======================
> 
> Thank you. I think I am going to like doing it sideways best.
> And I am going to add 3" of ease instead of 2.
> 
> From top of bottom band to underarm is 13.5". I get 9 sts/2" on size 8 needles. 12 rows/ 2" on size 8 needles.
> 
> 4.5 sts/1" x 13.5 = 60.75 rounded up to 61 sts cast on.
> 
> Hips are 58.5 total so 29" x 2
> 
> 58.5" hips + 3" ease = 61.5 divided by 2 = 30.75 rounded up = 31" for front
> 
> 31" x 6 rows/1" = 186 rows.
> 
> 186 divided by 2 = 93 to center.
> 24 rows for T
> 2 rows of purl each side
> equals 28 rows
> 
> 93 - 14 = 79 rows before beginning 2 rows purl (in blues or in white T?) and white for the T.
> 
> 93 rows blues
> -02 rows purls
> -14 rows white (T)
> -02 rows purls
> ________________
> 77 rows blues before beginning purl rows and white for T
> 
> 77
> + 02
> + 28
> + 02
> + 77
> _______
> 186 rows = 31"
> ===========================
> Correct? I hope! Good thing I typed this, because I had figured my ease twice! I sure don't need 6" of ease!
> 
> Looks good
Click to expand...


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## Designer1234

*PREPARING FOR THE YOKE* -

#1---T SWEATER,

#2 KNIT FROM THE BOTTOM

#3 ATTACH THE SIDE KNIT BOTTOM TO THE SWEATER. I will cover all these in the next few posts.


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## Designer1234

=================================

[bHow to add the yoke to:[/b] 
#1 - T SWEATER - knit bottom up.

Keep on knitting until the bottom area, from under the arm measured to the top of the cuff (even if you have knit the cuff).

Once you are at the under arm and if you are going to add the top of the T to your sweater. You will start one of two ways. You can carry the color to the edge of the sweater and then go all the way across, without having a dividing stitch texture ( 4 rows wide ) across the whole top and knit up until you are ready to cast off for the neck. OR YOU CAN DO ONE OF THE SUGGESTIONS ON THE FOLLOWING SWEATERS. Now, this is another place where you have to decide for yourself where you want the neck and how wide the neck area. The yellow sweater has a fairly wide neck for me and I rather like it for this sweater. Usually, however on pullovers I make my neck deeper and not so wide. You can also put in a V if that is what you want. If you want to do a V neck I will find a link for you and post it. 
So do the horizontal part of the T until the bottom of your neck. Remember you must make enough room from under the arm to the shoulder so that you have room for your arm. In my sweater I knit the T bottom higher than the under arm This is also your choice. You want the yoke to sit nicely on your top.

I am going to discuss other ways to change to the yoke . Please read all ideas before you decide for yourself the way you want to deal with the yoke.


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## Designer1234

#2-KNIT FROM THE BOTTOM

This will be a new experience for most of you. I always use a 4 row rib between the bottom and the top after the pick up row. When I did the cotton sweater I was just starting my sweater journey but now I do like the rib rows across the top of my sweaters.

As you will be adding on the row edge stitches, you will want to pick your stitches up with a contrasting color (see picture). you want this to be the 1st row and it will look like stocking stitch.

yYou pick up three stitches and skip one all across the edge.

then, make sure it lies flat -if it seems to pull you might have to add a few stitches but usually the knit 3 miss one across works on the sideways edge which is now the top of the bottom area of the sweater.

1st ROW - knit across row (this will look like a purl on the right side of the sweater. 
2 row -*purl, knit in back of next stitch* all across the row.

3rd row repeat #2 row but knit where you see the purl and purl where you see the knit - using the same stitch pattern (p1,k1 in back) across this row.

4 you will make sure the next row shows up as a purl row to edge the crosswise rib - see below. Now you will knit the yoke in stocking stitch

=====
Here are a couple of the ribs I use often, both when joining the bottom to the top or when I want to do a decrease or change to smaller needles, or just to add interest.
My turquoise sweater was very bright so I only used the colored stripes in the front and I didn't want a 'busy top'

#1- wrong side knit whole row. (If you are on the right side- purl row (so that ridge is on the front).

-Right side: knit one *yarn over, knit two together * across front

Dont start or end with the yarnover. just finish it so that the knit two togethers are closest to the edge where we will either join with the back or add the sleeves.

--------------------------
1st ROW - knit across row (this will look like a purl on the right side of the sweater. 
2 row -*purl, knit in back of next stitch* all across the row.

3rd row repeat #2 row but knit where you see the purl and purl where you see the knit - using the same stitch pattern (p1,k1 in back) across this row.

4 you will make sure the next row shows up as a purl row to edge the crosswise rib - see below. Now you will knit the yoke in stocking stitch

=====
`


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## Designer1234

*here are some patterns I use when I want to put a rib in when I change the size of my needles or reduce stitches (usually on the top row of the rib. This works very well on the arms too They don't have to be used to cover up a change. I put them on most of my sweaters -Cardigans top down too. eg. the orange cardigan which I wear all the time. YOu can see how a simple texture adds to the sweaters including the top down cardigans. Allthree of these cardigans are using the same basic pattern. The pink one is my 'sweater for a stranger 2016)

The purple is the 'sweater for a stranger 2015

and the orange is one of my favorite sweaters as you can see I like color!*


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## Designer1234

I am confused. I know you knit to the under arm from the bottom up if you are doing it this way. Do I reduce the stitches anywhere to get the bust part correct if it is smaller than the hips? Also, I am just making this one color so when I get to the part with they do the yoke, do I reduce stitches here, bind off and then pick up stitches or what ? Sorry for the questions and I am not anywhere near to that part but just looking ahead.

I am much smaller in the bust than the hips. That is why I like this sweater. No you just knit and carry on - are you using the T shape, or are you knitting just a plain sweater?

:You are knitting a rectangle, there is no change for the sleeves. look at the picture of the yellow sweater posted previously. the top of the rectangle will drop over the top of your shoulder and down the arm.

(It is the drop sleeve sweater basic pattern)

if you are knitting a T sweater like the yellow one just change to your pattern stitch under the arms and keep on knitting up to and carry it across, OR knit the center bar a couple of inches higher then start the horizontal bar of the T and carry it up to the bottom of the neck.

Once you are where you want the bottom of your neck , wait for us. If you are not doing the T sweater you might want to put a rib across the yoke - see pictures.i I am showing what I mean right now so you might take a break and check it out when It is all posted


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## Designer1234

Designer1234 said:


> There are some patterns I use when I want to put a rib in when I change the size of my needles or reduce stitches (usually on the top row of the rib. This works very well on the arms too They don't have to be used to cover up a change although I do that all the time. I also use them on most of my sweaters -Cardigans top down too. eg. the orange cardigan which I wear all the time. You can see how a simple texture adds to the sweaters including the top down cardigans. All three of these cardigans are using the same basic pattern. The pink one is my 'sweater for a stranger 2016)
> 
> to reduce or increase the stitch number - on the row immediately after you have finished the rib across, add stitches (not too many,) across the whole ribbing. If you are deleting stitches - do it across the whole ribbing. Sometimes depending on whether I am knitting top down or bottom up, I reduce or increase the size of my needles, as well, as the only method. It helps to change a size from a small to a medium or if you are shaped like I am increase around the stomach and hips in comparison to the yoke. This is really helpful in getting your sweater to fit
> 
> The purple is the 'sweater for a stranger 2015
> 
> and the orange is one of my favorite sweaters as you can see I like color![/color]


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## NanaW

I am using one color. I didn't like the other color combination with the second yarn I had bought. I am using the pattern Lindas is using of k,p,k,p,k 2 rows. She said she was using one color and liked it so I thought I would try it. 
So, I just keep knitting right to the neck . I won't be there for awhile. I got worried and sort of stopped to wait to see if I understood it correctly.
Thank you so much.

I would still stop at the under arm . you might decide to put a texture across the sweater yoke. I am asking everyone to consider stopping at the under arm so that we can talk about the yoke which in most of my sweaters have 'some' texture


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## Treenya

Hi 
I knitted swatches with both size needles
4.5mm. 18 stitches x 24 rows is equal to 4" x4"
5.0mm. 17 stitches x 22 rows equal to 4" x 4"

My largest measurement is my hips at 44.25 inches

These swatches were done in stockinet the stitch.
I would like to do the yellow sweater sample but will be doing it in white and white/pink/blue mix. Not sure where to use the plain white but thought a cross the shoulders and down the front.

So, 44.25 + 2= 46? Or 46.25? 
==================================
stitches per 4" == 17 so your stitch count is 4.25 st/in

4.25 X 23in = 97.75 (rounded out to 98 stitches)

now add ease one inch on each side of the front (and later on the back) = 97.75 + (one inch=4.25) = 102.2 stitches (use l02)

I would cast on l02 inches.

you were correct!

PLEASE MAKE SURE TO ENTER ALL YOUR INFORMATION about your yarn (brand) band gauge etc. in your notebook. how much ease you added and make sure you put a page with the gauge (number ofstitches per inch for that particular yarn and that size needles. You won't have to take a swatch again, as most yarns of that weight are fairly close. so the next time you do a sweater with these needles and this weight yarn ou will already have a good idea of the stitch count

so you will knit 102 on the front piece and the back piece 
------------------

* I used the size 8 needles (5mm.) for the body of all my sweaters and some times the smaller size needles for the collar if you knit one, the bottom band and the cuff. So start knitting. 
Give me a shout if you need any help.*
==================================


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## tami_ohio

I am doing the sideways body. I have about 2" done on it. I am hoping I figured everything correctly. Also hoping my gauge isn't changing. I don't have enough knit to check it yet.

 never double check my gauge once I start it - an inch or so out isn't going to matter. Don't even think about it - just remember this is a fairly loose sweater and you are going to enjoy doing it!!


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## grannyfabulous4

I am doing the bottom up with the t-section in the middle. Thanks so much for doing this Shirley. You gave me the courage to tackle socks a couple years ago with your class and since I have done about 2 dozen pairs in between other items!!!! At present I think I have 3 or 4 pairs on needles, but they are awaiting the finish of this sweater.
------------
It is so satifying to know how many people learned more and more about different projects, tried new things and changed their knitting ability, by our workshops.

I learned magic loop, toe up and prior to that double pointed needles from 3 classes on the workshops. I really appreciate 
it when people let me know that they found them helpful.

I think that the fact that our own Members teach for nothing, to other KP members is outstanding. We have designers teach their designs and reduce the price of the patterns by a great deal. MY first Kal on the main forum, was one of my 
'coats of many colors' A member Rose Glad had just started and had never knit a sweater. She finished hers first and I have followed her posts and she is a wonderul, very inventive knitter. It is so satisfying for the teacher.

I really hope that you all try another sweater that is more suited to YOUR body. You know the basic idea now and if you can come up with a pattern that you design on your own, your knitting life won't ever be the same. Even if it is to take a pattern you like and adjust it to fit you better, this class will be worth it. Even if you don't, there is information there that you can always use if you wish.


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## KnitnNat

I am about half way up the front and having fun.
Sure looks big. Thanks again, meggie.

Everyone wanted that sweater so that is what you are all getting. It is very loose at the top if you are my shape. However it is comfortable and I am hoping you will learn to adjust to make a more fitted sweater. I will be happy to help anyone and we might even open the workshop for a second sweater if there is enough interest, using a more fitted number of stitches and shaping better. So keep that thought.


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## mildredL2

I am making the straight up version,-- have done the bottom band, which I decided to do in seed stitch, and have done a couple of inches of the front body, after having tinked back my mistake, where the center panel was not attached to the sides  ! Thank you for the explanation on how to prevent that, and for all your extremely clear and well illustrated information.

And a very big thank you for this workshop, I am amazed at the amount of new things already learned, from the basic instructions and the answers to my questions, as well as questions posted by others too.

Looking forward to trying a sweater with the sideways construction as soon as this one is finished.

 I just had a thought , we could stay open and do a second sweater if you all want to. But I would want it to be the sideways knit bottom! grin. We could draw a plan for our sweater using the stitch count. If there is interest we can just carry on! let me know what you all think. So give it some thought. We could use a nicer yarn with a blend and go to town. what about it? I would just want you to make a sweater that suits your body, not mine and I will make sure we don't try to do too much to confuse you.


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## lupines

I really want to do the bottom up T sweater - especially after reading how the style, shape and color choice helps camouflage some body shapes. I have been testing my two colors together and trying a few stitch patterns.

I think my solid color is too dark for my variegated - based on your sweaters - which is why I haven't cast on yet. Plus, I really like the look of my variegated yarn in stockinette stitch. I think I'm going to use my variegated for the stockinette portions, and use my solid - with the Embossed Diamond pattern for the T shape. I will try to attach a couple of pictures - I've never attached pictures before, as I would like opinions.

ETA - sorry the pictures are so large! 
The Embossed Diamond pattern is the top pattern on the green sample. Thanks .

I think your sweater will be beautiful - I like your idea. and I like it that you are deciding what to do for YOUR SWEATER. That is what I am all about in this class. Let us have more pictures once you are under way. Shirley


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## 123wendy

I am doing the bottom up sweater. 6 to 7 inches done.
Wendy

 carry on up to the under arm and we will start the yoke. thin about whether you want to do a ridge along the bottom of the yoke. As you are knitting it you don't need to .

Those who are knitting sideways I would suggest it - even if you use the same yarn as the T.

Having fun girls {I hope} This way of knitting is so satisfying and I hope you will all find it the same for you


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## ladydog

The Embossed Diamond pattern is the top pattern on the green sample. >>

great pattern! I still haven't decided on the pattern.

 Any overall pattern would work well. I especially like the one in the group I posted and am anxious to use that pattern in a sweater. Another one that works nicely is knit 6 purl 2 knit 6 purl 2 across the T bar. then knit 3 rows an then knit 3 purl 2, knit 6 purl 2 across .

It gives you broken lines and it is quite effective. I used that for the whole back of a sweater once. Remember, as you are the 'designer' you can do what you like I often do the back either plain with a textured yoke or in the case of my stashbusters ( the turquoise I took one of the patterns in the strips and did the whole back) see the picture below


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## chuckmary

I am doing the bottom up. I started with an 8 row garter stitch. I am doing the T type. My center band is double seed stitch. I am about half way to the underarm.

Mary

 Sounds good thanks for - posting. It helps if people let me know how you are all doing. Shirley


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## weteach4ulinda

I am knitting the sweater but as I am an old timer I started on the back of the sweater. I am done up to the underarm measurements. Should I stop and put it on holders and start the front? Linda

no we knit the whole thing straight up. however you might want to put it on a holder unless you are sure you do't want a rib design. Are you going to use the T? if so I would hold off and do the front as that sets up what we are going to do on the back. (If you are doing my sweater, the back has the rib only across the top so you would knit to that part and change yarns. I never start the neck or shoulders on a drop sleeve until both are ready and I have calculated the neck so we can start the neck curve. Then we decide whether we will go straight across without a dip in the back neck once we are finished designing the front neck and that way we know how wide the back neck should be. We will then join the shoulders, and finish the neck space. Once we put the shoulders together we will knit the ribbing for the color. It is important we get a good fit.. (Important that we do it in that order or we will not have them match.).

I am pleased you are getting so close to starting the front which is the the one we make all the adjustments on (adding a strip, and deciding on the width of the top of the T).

So I would put it on a holder and do the front up to where the underarm is and we will figure out the top front first and then back to match. Good job


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## Ctown Nana

Had to work today, but am planning on starting sideways bottom tomorrow. I have all my measurements and gauge swatch done. I wanted to try the short row bottom as I like the look of your sweater, but was not sure where to knit to do the wrap and turn to make the lower bottom wider. My bust and hip measurements are about the same, so I do not need to do this for fit. but just liked the "swing" look of your cardigan. I will try to catch up tomorrow so that I can start the yoke. Thanks!!!

 I posted 2 or 3 links on one of the posts today as to how to learn short rows. I also posted other links and I would check them all out.) The short rows aren't hard but I figure it is best to learn to o them properly.
As far as the bottom is concerned I usually go up the highest at first, and then turn then go all the way to the top . Then go to the bottom, go up a bit shorter and turn, and return own to the bottom, then knit two or three full rows then go up a ways and turn and just make a nice wider edge do them all on both sides . Mark down how many you did and approximately how many inches from the bottom as you will do the same for the back so they match. It is a really nice effect. I don't have to ad very many rows but some may want even more rows. That is up to each knitter.

So much is your own choice - but just go for it. That is the only way you will prove to yourself you can do this!

The first time I tried the short rows I drew a picture of the general angle I wanted and I follow it on the sweater from the small drawing. I will help you with it if you are worried. You don't need very many with this sweater. All the increases are on the sides.


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## Designer1234

glnwhi said:


> Shirley, it will be monday before I can start going away for the week-end. I am very hesitant to start I don't want to be a complete goof up. I have my yarn. Oh yes it will be side ways.


no one can be a 'goof up' on my class. You should have seen how many mistakes I have made along the way. I am just too stubborn to give up an idea. I love teaching this class and I really hope you will all try it. It isn't a difficult knit and I know there is a lot of information but I seem to have lots of information and pictures so I am just going for it. 

We are at the yoke instructions now so we are getting there.
Please don't worry about it - we all are worried about starting something new. I was a basket case the other night wondering how I could communicate something that is not written, but just ideas. It seems to be well received. So you just start and ask any questions as often as you like. I want to make it successful for all of you.


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## tami_ohio

lupines said:


> I really want to do the bottom up T sweater - especially after reading how the style, shape and color choice helps camouflage some body shapes. I have been testing my two colors together and trying a few stitch patterns.
> 
> I think my solid color is too dark for my variegated - based on your sweaters - which is why I haven't cast on yet. Plus, I really like the look of my variegated yarn in stockinette stitch. I think I'm going to use my variegated for the stockinette portions, and use my solid - with the Embossed Diamond pattern for the T shape. I will try to attach a couple of pictures - I've never attached pictures before, as I would like opinions.
> 
> ETA - sorry the pictures are so large!
> The Embossed Diamond pattern is the top pattern on the green sample. Thanks .
> 
> I think your sweater will be beautiful - I like your idea. and I like it that you are deciding what to do for YOUR SWEATER. That is what I am all about in this class. Let us have more pictures once you are under way. Shirley
> 
> Very pretty!


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## NanaW

weteach4ulinda said:


> Nana I am liking the look, how about you? Linda


I am only 4 in. up but I think I will like it. I did a k2,p1 ribbing to make my stitch count come out correctly. I am anxious to see how you do the yoke. This is my first time knitting a sweater so I am not real confident. I thought I might put two pockets on it.


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## Conchalea

I am doing the T sweater, bottom up. I had about 2inches done but it looked smal so I measured. It was too small as my tension changed from my swatch. So I ripped it out, finding in the process that my method of joining the yarns at the center section really worked as it was a pain to untwist them. So I cast on more stitches & now am about 3 inches in.

 It really is going to be a beautiful sweater. I am starting to get excited.


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## leslee

I am knitting the T sweater bottom up. I started on the back of the sweater have 8in done.


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## Ctown Nana

All this makes perfect sense---I may just do the bottom straight this time so that I know the general fit and then can try the short rows on my next one [I truly believe this will become a favorite sweater for myself and others I love to knit for]. Thanks so much for all your help!!! Now to get knitting......


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## Ctown Nana

Conchalea said:


> I am doing the T sweater, bottom up. I had about 2inches done but it looked smal so I measured. It was too small as my tension changed from my swatch. So I ripped it out, finding in the process that my method of joining the yarns at the center section really worked as it was a pain to untwist them. So I cast on more stitches & now am about 3 inches in.


Love your color choices!!


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## B4

Hi Shirley, I haven't done anything yet, no yarn, no measurements etc. But I am reading every word here that's been printed. The questions and the answers. I look forward to starting mine. I would like to try the sideways knit.


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## AmberSparkles

After several misstarts, I'm doing the bottom to top, with the cherry blossom cable in the middle. I tried doing the panels.... But my colors were not contrasting enough and we're getting all tangled up. So, I have the variated yarn for the next sweater, which will be sideways and the border last.

Have you ever seen a v neck with the cable breaking in half and going around the neck? I would like to try that? 

Thank you for the consuming amount of time you are putting in this. It is so appreciated. 

 no I haven't but I sure would love to find out how you do it. Once you figure it out would you post how you do it so I can put it in my notebook. I really like that idea. WOW! I have never not learned on a workshop I have taught or helped the teacher on KP. What a great group.

Let me know how you do it!!! (or let me have the link with the instructions. I haven't make many v necks (one) and Ilove the idea of doing one like it.


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## lupines

Jacklou said:


> Hi Shirley,
> 
> I am doing the sideways "T" sweater and have about 3 inches finished. Have to decide whether to do 8" - 8" - 8" or 9" - 6" - 9" before I change colors. Any opinions?


When I was playing around with the width of the center band, I put on a solid color shirt. Then I took two matching hand towels - different color than the shirt, but matching each other - placing one across my shoulders to be the top portion of the T, and held the other vertically, adjusting the folded width to get an idea of how the different widths of center panels would look on me. Hopefully , my explanation is clear.

 I personally feel that the center block should be 
a bit narrower than the two outside edges. Remember the sides will be going under the arm so won't look as wide.

my sweater I used a 9" by a 5 or 6" center. We can decide that when we start. *There will be no vertical stripe up the back, only across the top of the T exactly even with the front*.

'Including the purl stitches and a 
6" T bar. In the other one I widened the center bar by nearly two inches. That is why I think Lupines suggestion and the earlier suggestion of using strip of paper will help you so much. I liked the first one on me better.

if you are thin you might want the center bar nearly as wide as the sides. If you are heavier I think it is something you will have to decide for yourself .

MAKE SURE YOU ENTER WHAT YOU ARE DOING IN YOUR NOTEBOOK. it will help you change the parts you want to change for the next sweater

Lupines - thank you so much for answering these questions while I was sleeping . It is a relief to have someone who understands the information and is an experienced knitter so can help explain what I am trying to get across and can come up with ideas to help all of us!


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## Jacklou

lupines said:


> When I was playing around with the width of the center band, I put on a solid color shirt. Then I took two matching hand towels - different color than the shirt, but matching each other - placing one across my shoulders to be the top portion of the T, and held the other vertically, adjusting the folded width to get an idea of how the different widths of center panels would look on me. Hopefully , my explanation is clear....


Thanks, a good idea.


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## lupines

NanaW said:


> I am only 4 in. up but I think I will like it. I did a k2,p1 ribbing to make my stitch count come out correctly. I am anxious to see how you do the yoke. This is my first time knitting a sweater so I am not real confident. I thought I might put two pockets on it.


I think I'm going to "steal" your pockets idea!! I saw a picture of a cardigan not too long ago, where the knitter put her pockets in the side seam.
--------------------------
_To be honest I think it is easier to not be experienced as some of the things I suggest are pretty hard for someone who has knitted many sweaters will likely shake their head in horror. It does work though an in my opinion once you know what fits you in a pullover and then a cardigan you can change texture, color, add a collar, put on fancy cuffs and on and on. I just looked at all the sweaters I have still in my closet. Two basic patterns that fit and not one of them looks the same (oh, that isn't really the truth as I have quite a few stashbuster coats of many colors but not one is a duplicate of another and I doubt you would find one that anyone else has made the same_. That satisfies me and I think it would satisfy most of you. You have to learn how though. This is the very beginning of the journey.

*Just give yourself a chance to really work at this . Have a sweater like this going on like we do socks and if you think of something you would like different then think about how you would achieve it .I never know what I am going to do with my yoke or sleeves until I get there. ever. It is quite freeing actually*. I can tell already that some of you are going to carry on trying to do this. I don't want anyone to give up and think it isn't worth it. Mark down the things that are happening that you DON'T like - and think seriously how you can make changes so you DO LIKE IT.

I like it that you suggested pockets and someone else got excited about putting pockets in hers. go to U tube (I use google) and type in

HOW DO I KNIT POCKETS IN THE SIDE SEAM OF A PULLOVER SWEATER? and see what it turns up.

I use the internet all the time and I WRITE DOWN HOW I DID IT SO THAT if it is successful I know it and if I don't like it I write down why.

Write down either the question you asked or give the link for the result you used. Remember there are usually a lot of different U tube answers - read 2 or 3 and use the one you like best.*ALWAYS MARK DOWN THE LINK (I use my links two ways. I always put the information link in the actual write up of each project. I ALSO HAVE A PAGE WITH LINKS THAT I USE QUITE OFTEN *- We have written down a few on this workshop- just put what the link is going to tell you. That way you can refresh your memory about short rows (on this workshop, side pockets and on and on.) Your note book is what keeps things working for you. Mark down and underline or hilight in yellow or light pink what you like about the finished project ( I don't do that any more but it is a good idea at the beginning) also write down how you would like to improve what you have accomplished . You will refer back to your note book for years.

Below are 3 pages of 3 of my notebooks which work out to be about one Note book a year. It is second nature for me. I also sometimes just use the old instructions and put on a page, who the sweater is for, the yarn used etc. and then put down 2014 - page number. That is so I can find patterns I use all the time easily.. I keep them all together in order of the year they were written. Just about every original article I have made is there. Only I understand them but I use the same information over and over - I made 13 fingerless mittens from on of my early patterns this year, just changing the rib pattern in each one so that they are different. Otherwise I would have to start designing a new pattern. That isn't so difficult but there are some things I made that I really like and so do other people so it is handy. Sweaters are the most important. YOu will note that on one of the pages it says 
sweater for Rose - she absolutely loved that sweater. It was knitted for her 3 or 4 years ago. If I decided to do her another one I would just use that information and her measurements and do her another. It is so much fun!![/i]


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## Designer1234

lupines said:


> When I was playing around with the width of the center band, I put on a solid color shirt. Then I took two matching hand towels - different color than the shirt, but matching each other - placing one across my shoulders to be the top portion of the T, and held the other vertically, adjusting the folded width to get an idea of how the different widths of center panels would look on me. Hopefully , my explanation is clear....


 What an excellent idea! Thankyou Lupines!!!
This is the worrisome part for me as I am one shape and I know there are lots of different shapes out there. I so don't want anyone too disappointed. If I could be with each of you I could help but this will be very workable for all of you. Even if you are doing one color with a texture, it would help. The sweater is not fitted so it is important where your front T band is.

Remember this sweater is loose but should not be loose at the largest part of your body. If you are going to do the flare, you might want to use a size smaller needle once you are doing the yoke DEPENDING ON YOUR SHAPE.

I hesitated for years to teach this as nothing is sized for others so you have to size yourself. Now that you understand the concept, you will have to decide in the future whether you want to change the next one

#1 put in a bit of a waist line (decrease going up from the top of the hip slightly, over the waist and possibly have it a bit narrower in the top. Using the basic straight up like we are, you can put it on and decide what would be better for your body in your next one. I don't flare mine out very much because this style might look a bit like a tent or a pear- however that way I could reduce the yoke size a bit. For other sweaters I have reduced the width of my yoke quite a bit and made the flare.I always change needles or reduce the stitches after making a 4 row texture band across the area. It hides the reduction and sometime I do decrease a couple at each end to help if there is a big different. I play it by ear. That would work for one type of body. It is worth using the less expensive yarn and trying different ideas for your shape.

I promise you will find it worthwhile if you take the time to knit for your shape which I can't do much to help. Soooo don't be discouraged if this doesn't fit you the way you are used to. use it as a guide for change.

lay it down and lay a sweater that is close to your shape on top of it, and see where you want to 'fit it' next time.

Some of you will only adjust your patterns and that is okay too. If patterns have not fitted you well, do a stitches per in on the pattern - usually you can figure out what the designer wanted. Count the stitches for the different areas of the sweater which is included in the pattern and compare it to your body shape stitches per inch. You will be able to compare and figure out a way to change it. I will always be available to help you down the road. Just pm me or even send me an email . I will be happy to answer - that way you can send me a note and I will try to help you decrease stitches for your shape in comparison to the #of stitches in the pattern .


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## Jomoyach

First, thank you Shirley for taking the time to do this workshop, and everyone involved that help us on this journey.

I'm knitting the T sweater sideways, using one color. I'm using Classic Silk yarn: 50%cotton, 30% silk, 20% nylon. I'm getting 5 st. per inch on a size 5 needle. I cast on 63 stitches, which is what I needed from underarm to top of bottom border. I'll knit 9" in stockinette, then 4" in seed stitch, then 9" in stockinette for the front. I'm not doing short rows. I'm wondering , when I finish the front, could I place a marker, then continue around , doing the same for the back? I would have a long rectangle that wraps around my body that would be seamed on the one side. (I don't particularly like to seam, lol). Will I be able to add a yoke onto this long rectangle bottom?

I have a bunch more questions about how to add on the yoke , but I know we are not there yet, and I'm only 5" into the project, so I can wait, but wanted to know if it makes sense to continue from the front to back in all one piece.

Thanks again. Joan
================================
Personally, I like the seam up the sides as it controls the fit of the sweater for me. I don't want it to spiral.

OFF THE PULLOVER TOPIC FOR A FEW MINIUTES:However on the top down pattern it does get knit around for a cardigan. That is something I don't like so much so will try to figure out how to do it so it fits better.

I am seriously thinking of doing my cardigans and having seams. That is one of the things I like about the top down pattern but I find I am never quite as happy as I was with my early cardigans where I knit the back and two fronts separately. It works better that way for me and it also means more work so I am hesitatant to do them that way. I find the cardigans (top down) seem to stretch at the bottom and I honestly prefer the results (for me, knitted the other way) If I do start using the separate pieces I will knit both fronts at once. rather than one at a time. 
Just my thinking as I know some of you will want to try designing a cardigan for yourselves. This another of your own choices - and you will find what works best for you.

They are a completely different knit than the one we are doing which is about the most simple way to knit a sweater but it does give you the idea of the type of thinking you have to do. It however is so satisfying that to me it gives me a reason to knit for myself and I love the results.

SO- try it and see if you like it . You are right, to work in the sleeves you will have to stop at the under arm and knit the yokes flat from what I can figure. so you would have to make sure you are exact. Personally I am not sold on the idea. I know it is faster, but I don't like the results nearly as well. However you might find you like it. That is what this class is about - it is what you want to do and if it doesn't work out you find a different solution.

3/4 of the cardigans I have knitted have been top down but,I am more and more inclined to do them all the same way so that I can have a good fit. I know this might be something you want to do and if that is the case go for it. I hope you would prove me wrong.


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## Designer1234

lupines said:


> I think I'm going to "steal" your pockets idea!! I saw a picture of a cardigan not too long ago, where the knitter put her pockets in the side seam.
> --------------------------
> _To be honest I think it is easier to not be experienced as some of the things I suggest are pretty hard for someone who has knitted many sweaters will likely shake their head in horror. It does work though an in my opinion once you know what fits you in a pullover and then a cardigan you can change texture, color, add a collar, put on fancy cuffs and on and on. I just looked at all the sweaters I have still in my closet. Two basic patterns that fit and not one of them looks the same (oh, that isn't really the truth as I have quite a few stashbuster coats of many colors but not one is a duplicate of another and I doubt you would find one that anyone else has made the same[/u]. That satisfies me and I think it would satisfy most of you. You have to learn how though. This is the very beginning of the journey_.
> 
> *Just give yourself a chance to really work at this . Have a sweater like this going on like we do socks and if you think of something you would like different then think about how you would achieve it .I never know what I am going to do with my yoke or sleeves until I get there. ever. It is quite freeing actually*. I can tell already that some of you are going to carry on trying to do this. I don't want anyone to give up and think it isn't worth it. Mark down the things that are happening that you DON'T like - and think seriously how you can make changes so you DO LIKE IT.
> 
> I like it that you suggested pockets and someone else got excited about putting pockets in hers. go to U tube (I use google) and type in
> 
> HOW DO I KNIT POCKETS IN THE SIDE SEAM OF A PULLOVER SWEATER? and see what it turns up.
> 
> I use the internet all the time and I WRITE DOWN HOW I DID IT SO THAT if it is successful I know it and if I don't like it I write down why.
> 
> Write down either the question you asked or give the link for the result you used. Remember there are usually a lot of different U tube answers - read 2 or 3 and use the one you like best.*ALWAYS MARK DOWN THE LINK (I use my links two ways. I always put the information link in the actual write up of each project. I ALSO HAVE A PAGE WITH LINKS THAT I USE QUITE OFTEN *- We have written down a few on this workshop- just put the subject of the link on your working page.That way you can refresh your memory about short rows (on this workshop, side pockets and on and on.)
> 
> Your note book is what keeps things working for you. Mark down and underline in yellow or light pink what you like about the finished project ( I don't do that any more but it is a good idea at the beginning) also write down how you would like to improve what you have accomplished . You will refer back to your note book for years.
> 
> Below are 3 pages of 3 of my notebooks. I keep them all together in order of the year they were written. Just about every original article I have made is there. Only I understand them but I use the same information over and over - I made 13 fingerless mittens from one of my early patterns, just changing the rib pattern in each one so that they are different. Otherwise I would have to start designing a new pattern. That isn't so difficult but there are some things I made that I really like and so do other people so it is handy.
> 
> Sweaters are the most important. YOu will note that on one of the pages it says
> sweater for Rose - she absolutely loved that sweater. It was knitted for her 2 or 3 years ago. If I decided to do her another one I would just use that information and her measurements and do her another. It is so much fun!![/i]


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## Designer1234

*BACK TO THE YOKE*

I think you will have to make up your own minds about this. I have definite opinions for my own body. I usually knit sidesways so it is essential that I have a nice join to start knitting the yoke. I decided early on to knit a 4 row ribbing texture which sits up from the stocking stitch, and then carry on knitting with the new color (in my case ) or the color you are using. If you are knitting straight up, look at my workshop sweater picture and you will see that I added the top of the T fairly close to the beginning of the yoke. If you are just knitting straight up using one color for the sweater, make sure you leave lots of room for us to calculate our neck. Remember, on this sweater there is no decrease for the arms - it will drop when we reach the shoulder. Look for a sweater or t Shirt that you like the neck and measure the WIDTH OF IT . AND HOW DEEP FROM THE NECK YOU WANT IT. If by chance you err on the side of too big, (ask me how I know this), then you can start your neck rib with the 4.5 needles and then change to a smaller needle to help a larger rib lie flat. This is also a place where I have used crochet (which by the way I use quite often in my work). If it is only a little bit big your can single crochet once around the neck pulling it a bit smaller, then pick up the yarn for your neck and knit your ribbing. or you can use both if you want a wide rib on your sweater.

You have to decide how deep you want the front, or do you want it quite wide. I like deep usually as I have such a small neck and if it is too wide it slips down over my shoulder. I am surprised that this one (in our sweater) doesn't do that so I have marked in my notebook that this neck can work for me in the future). I will show a couple of different shapes of sweaters and I would also suggest that before you do yours, you

search the following : HOW DO I MAKE A NECK OPENING TO FIT PROPERLY OVER MY HEAD, and how do I knit the ribbing .

See what they say.

The best way I can show how I do the neck is post pictures. So, I am going to post a some now with different necks. You would never believe my table behind my computer- I have it piled high with my original sweaters


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## Designer1234

Designer1234 said:


> *BACK TO THE YOKE*
> 
> I think you will have to make up your own minds about this. I have definite opinions for my own body. I usually knit sidesways so it is essential that I have a nice join to start knitting the yoke. I decided early on to knit a 4 row ribbing texture which sits up from the stocking stitch, and then carry on knitting with the new color (in my case ) or the color you are using. If you are knitting straight up, look at my workshop sweater picture and you will see that I added the top of the T fairly close to the beginning of the yoke. If you are just knitting straight up using one color for the sweater, make sure you leave lots of room for us to calculate our neck. Remember, on this sweater there is no decrease for the arms - it will drop when we reach the shoulder. Look for a sweater or t Shirt that you like the neck and measure the WIDTH OF IT . AND HOW DEEP FROM THE NECK YOU WANT IT. If by chance you err on the side of too big, (ask me how I know this), then you can start your neck rib with the 4.5 needles and then change to a smaller needle to help a larger rib lie flat. This is also a place where I have used crochet (which by the way I use quite often in my work). If it is only a little bit big your can single crochet once around the neck pulling it a bit smaller, then pick up the yarn for your neck and knit your ribbing. or you can use both if you want a wide rib on your sweater.
> 
> You have to decide how deep you want the fron, or do you want it quite wide. I like deep usually as I have such a small neck and if it is too wide it slips down over my shoulder. I am surprised that this one (in our sweater) doesn't do that so I have marked in my notebook that this neck can work for me in the future). I will show a couple of different shapes of sweaters and I would also suggest that before you do yours, you
> 
> search the following : HOW DO I MAKE A NECK OPENING TO FIT PROPERLY OVER MY HEAD, and how do I knit the ribbing .
> 
> See what they say.
> 
> The best way I can show how I do the neck is post pictures. So, I am going to post a some now with different necks. You would never believe my table behind my computer- I have it piled high with my original sweaters !
> 
> Here are some of the necks on my sweaters. You can see that you have to make up your own mind about this.


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## Designer1234

Designer1234 said:


> Here are some of the necks on my sweaters. You can see that you have to make up your own mind about this.


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## Susan65

I apologize but I'm a couple of days late getting started. I've figured my size at 50" including 3" ease. I like the idea of doing it in the round up to where the armholes start. Also, I have another sweater I did with about 2"+ in garter stitch rather than ribbing and I really like the way it hangs. Do you think that would be suitable here?

I like the borders in garter stitch the best of all I have tried. I like how it lies flat. I usually do mine about 3 inches and it really makes a difference. So go for it!


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## Designer1234

*Now we reach the most important part of this sweater - the neck. It is what anchors the whole sweater to your body. It has be be able to go OVER your head, but you don't want its shape to add inches if you are top heavy or like me have a very small neck attached to a small top.

This pattern does allow a lot of leeway*.

First of all - make sure you knit enough yoke to cover your top up to the neck. If you are busty you will need more than someone like me who has hardly any bust. so measure from the bottom of the yoke up and make sure that it is tall enough. Each of us has a different shaped top and this pattern takes very litte changing except to make sure you have enough space in the yoke for it not to pull down. I think, as we used our widest measurement it should not be a problem, but check anyway as I haven't knit this type of yoke for a busty or heavy person.

once you know your number of inches to the shoulder , then decide on what you want to do for the neck.

Most of you have knit necks you like so you will decide this for yourself. I like the one on the original sweater for my shape as it makes my top look wider. If you are quite wide at the top, you might find that the deeper neck like the red picture would work for you. then you will find the center of the neck which is the center point between both sides (don't worry that it seems large on both sides, It is supposed to as that part will be falling over the shoulder. We work just from the center and we do one side at a time so that it is a mirror image.

I would suggest you either find a sweater neck you like from your wardrobe, or you measure the amount across your shoulders for the width of the front of the neck. MAKE SURE YOU CAN FIT THE WHOLE THING OVER YOUR HEAD. REMEMBER THE BACK WILL BE MUCH FLATTER AND HIGHER ON THE YOKE- the changes are on the front section. On a couple of mine I have knit the back straight across and made a deeper front. (The red one is much like that). so that is about all I can tell you.

Once your decision is made you will cast off a certain number of stitches, slowly curving up to the spot (you can have a goodly portion with the curve at the bottom and then knit straight up (see red neck) our you can make it wider more than deep and slowly curve up to the shoulder edge. Once you finish the back and you must end up with the same number of stitches on the shoulder on each side for the front and the back, then you can cast off in one of two ways. If you have never knit a neck, search by typing in the following

HOW DO I CALCULATE HOW TO KNIT A NECK FOR A PULLOVER. (I will see what I can find and post the link.

If you have a sloping shoulder you might put a bit of a slope from the shoulder edge to the neck edge also some slope on the back, althoug not as much.- This is done by short rows from the neck edge. I would only do 2 or 3 at the most rows but I don't know your shape so if you have a sweater, trace the neck and follow it when you cast off.

YOu will now cast off the whole top and start the back.

=============
NOTE: THE YELLOW SWEATER IS THE MAIN COLOR UNTIL YOU REACH WHERE THE BAR ACCROSS THE SHOULDERS STARTS. YOUR STRIP WILL GO AROUND YOUR SWEATER SO IT WILL BE ONE COLOR on both the front and the back. The Bottom portion of the back will be the main yellow color - There is no STRIP IN THE BACK, only the top part of the T Yu will knit more rows for the back as you will not be knitting the neck cast offs. You will knit the yellow until you reach the same place exactly as where you started knitting the second color on the yoke. Then knit to the place you want to cast off for the neck. -- you will do one side at a time and write down your cast offs so the sides are exactly the same only a mirror image. I usally start with casting of 3 stitches on the neck sideknit at least one row possibly two, and cast off another stitch keep on doing this until it is the width you wish. Then I knit up to where I want my shoulder. This is a very important and the first time you will find it scary. However once you have written down what you like and what you don't , then you can adjust for the neck you wish. 
I hope this is making sense.

So away you go. I might suggest just to be sure of the depth of your yoke, Put the shoulder stitches on holders until you get the back done, then baste the shoulders and under the arm down the sides for a fit. Once it is okay, then remove the basting along the sides under the arm, and join the shoulders using whatever stitch you like to use for shoulders to join. I deliberately join in the back loop of both the shoulder and the front so that I end up with a ridge - but you can do an invisible join if you wish. I always want some texture on mine pretty well at all the joins. You might not want the same thing.

then lay the sweater (joined at the shoulders , flat on the table. and decide how big you want to use for the space for your sleeves. You want enough room for your arm to fit comfortably. Some might want the whole area for the sleeve opening -some of us have large arms at the top.- I don't I like a fairly close sleeve especially for this sweater. I would use the 2nd (center ) color to cast on for the sleeves and make whatever sleeve you wish. I use the magic loop on my top downs, but you will knit the sleeves flat on this one, reducing down to where you cast off. I used short sleeves on mine but 3/4 sleeves might be more of what you want. That is another decision you must make.

knit to the bottom of your neck, cast off evenly on both sides (NOT TOO MUCH) for your neck. knit up to where you think you might want your shoulder. baste shoulders together making sure your shoulders meet at the outside edge across both. then base the bottom sides and see how you like the neck. Personally I would make the neck opening more in the front that in both back and front. once you feel comfortable about the amount of yoke you have (increase the rows in the shoulders on the front and the whole back so that your yoke is balanced.

The front is ready so I would put the shoulder stitches on a holder if you have any doubt about how high the shoulder should go. 
=====================

NOW KNIT THE BACK UP TO THE SAME HEIGHT AS THE SHOULDERS. USING THE SAME NUMBER OF STITCHES CAST ON AND KNITTED AS THE FRONT. I wouldn't do this until you feel that the front is close to what you want. when you knit the back shoulders and baste the sides you will be able to tell if you need to add some rows to your shoulders on both sides for a good fit. (I have covered some of this in my posts about the front yoke.)

Don't hesitate to ask me any questions if this is not clear. I am finding it difficult to make sure you understand what I am trying to tell you, so please do the best you can and post if you have difficulty.

that is WHY I suggest you take the time to do the basting for this first sweater. Remember the outside edge will look weird until you get the sleeves in and it will help the sweater drop over the shoulder and arm. then you can decide what you want to do for your arm. ONE THING AT A TIME is the only way this works


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## Designer1234

SO ladies. That is all I can really tell you about this sweater. I realize that I have repeated myself quite often, and I apologize if it is confusing you. However it is the best way I can describe how to do this project.

I hope you are not bothered too much about the huge amount of information and suggestions. I just hope you will take what you need to knit your sweater for your shape.

I understand that a lot of you have knit many many sweaters. However there are some that are first time sweater knitters. So any questions that are asked when I am not here, can be answered by any of you who know the answer.

Lupines has helped me with this workshop so much, by proof reading, which it really needed when I first posted and in answering the questions (likely better than I can as I don't knit any other way). So join in and enjoy.

Remember we are at the state where the information is here and you are welcome to discuss it and let us know how you are feeling about your sweater. I am going to bake some cookies now as my gd is coming for dinner and over night so I want to have a treat for her. She doesn't get many treats but knows there is always one at Nanas. I will drop back in an hour or two and will answer any questions that are posted ( or will try to).

I am optimistic (more than when I took this on) that you are learning some new ideas which I hope will help you in the future with all your knitting, especially knitting for yourself and your own shape.

One thing I would like to know. Do you find the colored answers helpful or confusing? Do you think this helps the workshop. I will be helping teachers each month and I wonder if the colors are helpful.

I do think the colored answers might help you figure out when I am talking 
(and on this workshop I have done a lot of talking).

I really would like to know if it helps as much as I think it does to explain what I am trying to explain. This is so confusing -I realize it is, but you are all catching on so quickly I think I worried all those years about trying to share my ideas when I should have realized that you are all very smart and many are very experienced knitters which helps in some ways but is a big reach in others.

So let me know honestly what you think. Shirley


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## mildredL2

Yes, I think the colored answers are a huge help! 
:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

Thank you for all the detailed information and explanations, they will be so useful for future reference too, and for many future projects.

Thanks I hope others will agree as to me they make sense. If we get the majority agreeing I will color the teacher's answers on the workshops coming up. I did it for some but not all but as we are starting up again, I want to do it the easiest way for the teacher and the students.

I like it as I can tell if I have covered the answers to the questions so I am glad you agree!


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## AmberSparkles

I really like the colored text. You are doing great!!


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## Designer1234

don't hesitate to talk about what you are doing and how you feel about it - that is part of what we are learning - different treatments for different people!.


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## 123wendy

I have just started the yoke. Enjoying the workshop

 thankyou , I am so glad!


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## Designer1234

The people who are attending this class are interested in the process or they would not have joined the class. They will find that it will change their attitude towards their projects! even if they never make an original sweater - they will look at the pattern differently.

There are no wrong ways to do anything. Some work for some people, others work for other people and some rarely work at all. But we are interested enough to find out. I have had a couple of knitters in my seniors group (which I am a new member (6 months) who are horrified that I don't know where I am going and don't worry about it. I finished a sweater for a stranger and they never said a word about it but it didn't change their mind. (it was the purple one I gave away last year}. Their ideas are written in stone that there is only one right way. I have run into those people all my life and that is fine.

I don't believe anyone who feels that way would be interested in taking this class. They have every right to think what they want to think, and I figure I have every right to knit the way I want to knit. There has been so many kind people who like what I do and wish they could do it too. That is why this class was so important to me.

I am so appreciative that you all are willing to go outside the popular, safe way to knit. I personally use a lot of acrylics, just because I like the way they last and I like how they look and I find them quite warm. I don't buy on line and I have a huge stash (far too many colors) but I have a ball making something that is one of a kind. If even a few of you learn that joy, I will be more than happy. It looks from here as if there will be more than a few of you and I am so delighted

My husband has been looking at the pictures of 'stuff' I have made over our 60 years of marriage. He is my #1 fan and has never admitted to disliking one single thing I have made over the years.

He showed me two pictures of sweaters as they were made over 20 years ago and the southwestern sweater is especially his favorite.

We were in Arizona (Mesa) for 11 years as snow birds and I taught a sweater class on a southwestern sweater I had made. He reminded me and I just found both of them so here they are.


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## Designer1234

A bit about my SWEATER FOR A STRANGER.

4 years ago when dh was very ill and we had just lost our son , I got the idea of doing something for some one who likely would never have a hand knit sweater. I had met a really nice young woman who was a single mom and she loved my sweaters - she remarked on everyone she saw me wear. We ran into each other as I would sit and knit in Market Mall in Calgary while hubby walked around the mall. We got visiting and I decided one day to knit her a sweater. I talked to her about it and she gave me her phone number. We arranged to meet, I took her measurements and asked her favorite color and that was all she knew. I made her a top down cardigan in her favorite color which was a shade of green. I added lots of texture, and then use a brown beige yarn for the collar and the front bands and the cuffs. I met her at the mall and gave it to her. She cried. It was the first time I had joy in the two years that we lost our son and my hubby was so sick.

I decided that I would make a 'Sweater for a stranger' for someone each year.

Last year hubby and I had moved to a strange city and every day or so we dropped into MacDonalds for a coffee. One lady ALWAYS smiled and mentioned my sweaters. I knew and still know nothing about her personal life except that she seemed lonely. I asked her one day if she would like an original sweater and what was her favorite color. She told me purple (real purple and a bright brown"}. We went into the washroom and I took her measurements. I met her at MacDonalds a month or so later and gave her the finished sweater. She just beamed. (see picture on one of these pages.

This year I am making one for a senior in our seniors center who just lost her husband and so she is looking forward to getting the pink one I am nearly finished. Nothing has given me such a good feeling. I mention it because some of us don't know who to knit for if we don't have family, I donate hats and scarves to the Salvation army but this is so personal. I thought I would mention it as one or two of you might like the idea for yourselves.

Well, Grand daughter should be arriving any minute so I will see you all tomorrow. Thanks for all your support and interest in this workshop.


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## KnitnNat

That is exactly why the class is so interesting. I want to learn to think in knitting .Yep that slowed me down a bit , but now I know it can be done.


KnitnNat said:


> yes I find the colored answers help very much. This is my first sweater and maybe the first knit for myself. I'm learning and enjoying.
> I noticed a row of stitches wrong in middle panel of 20sts.
> after about 12 rows, used a crochet hook, went down and corrected each stitch. Something I could have never done
> before KP. So--Thanks again
> 
> THAT IS ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT THINGS ANY OF US KNITTERS MUST KNOW!!!!
> 
> I have done that so many times. It has saved many a sweater for me! I am so glad you are enjoying this process. I think it might be easier in a way to LEARN this method before you develop pre conceived ideas about what the RULES of knitting are.


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## AmberSparkles

Ooh my I'm going to have to use my brain and a hefty life line. I still have about an inch on the front. I need to do some measuring. I think I will need to decrease on each side every forth row. The decrease will be before the purls. Maybe I can cut a piece of paper, like we did for the middle band.

This is in regards to the split cable going around the v neck.


I did find a similar neck by Betty Balcomb, cascade yarns, weskit vest


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## leslee

Shirley those two sweaters are really beautiful , I especially like the first one. 
You have a wonderful eye for design.
Thank you for sharing them with all of us. 
Leslee :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

 Thankyou so much. I feel that it is the only way I can show you what I mean. I appreciate that the pictures are helping you all understand what I am meaning. I haven't done an embroidered front for a long time - mmmm! I have some ideas about my next one but I have to follow my own advice and finish the one I am making first!


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## Jomoyach

I like your answers and comments in color. It makes it so much easier to see.

I will make front and back separate and seam later. thank you for your insight.

 you are very welcome.

I know it is a bit more work and you are welcome to do it knitted in the round. However I haven't found it works that well which is my personal opinion. Once you get a bit of practice you will choose what methods you want to use. 
I am sure it will be the right choice for you.


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## Caesarteaser

Hi Shirley, I got a late start but am doing the bottom up T sweater with the center being the ripple stitch. I have about 4 inches done and just love the way it looks.

Thanks so much for doing this class. For the first time ever I have my measurements recorded and love that I'm plotting this sweater accordingly.

And, I think the answer in a different color is extremely helpful.

Thanks again. Now back to knitting, I have a good amount of ground to cover to catch up.

 we are not under any time limit. We can keep this workshop open for as long as someone needs the help. There is absolutely no need to worry about that. As there so much interest in the sideways "skirt" part of the sweater. I am thinking of just keeping it open and knitting another sweater. The sweaters we are knitting now won't be perfect. It takes time to see what works for our bodies. This first one is a 'rough draft' and we learn the basics. Then we look at it and decide what might suit us better. That has been the story of my life! You are all starting on a fun journey if you get past the worry about it. I think a second sweater will really turn out so much better, even if it is the same general style (drop sleeve etc.). it is something I am seriously thinking about but it won't be until this one runs its course.

I have been doing this for many years so I know what to expect. I think it might solidify what we have learned if we do the other style (knit sideways)which is really an easier way to knit a pullover style,sweater in my opinion. I rarely ever knit a sweater straight up unless it is a top down cardigan.

We would also discuss other ways to use texture.

As the drop down is the only style I knit because of my shape. If we do another you might want to do a more fitted top with a waist etc. to suit your shape. You can look at this one closely and decide where you want to change things and what would suit you and you would decide what type of pattern would look good on your body shape.

JUST READ ALL THE PAGES TWO OR THREE TIMES. THERE IS A HUGE AMOUNT OF INFORMATION THERE AND PICK OUT THE HELP THAT YOU NEED.


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## lupines

I also like the answers in a different color. I find the blue answers the easiest to read (and the green the hardest to read!).

I concur that there is a lot of information here - sometimes Designer just includes a comment, not realizing that her "basic" comment is a major new idea for many of us.

_I don't think re-reading 2 or 3 times is sufficient. I've gone through some posts 4, 5 6 times and am still either picking up something new or finding clarification of something I had read in a different post within this thread_.

back to knitting! 
ETA Sorry, this was phrased poorly - I meant that I was going back to my knitting.

==============
 Lupines I value your opinion and I am glad you are getting information that is useful.

I agree, the more times you read this the more sense it makes. I know there is some repeat posts, but it took me years to cover what we are covering in one class. I want you to think of these first sweaters as a START, and that you use the information to use it all to help you do YOUR top which fits your body. I have repeated myself but I have found over the years, especially with the written word that it might not mean anything or the wording is not clear the first or second time but the more it is written in different words, suddenly it makes sense! I appreciate your opinion very much. I am also glad that the color does what I hoped it would. I think without the color it would just have been a jumble of words and it would overwhelm.

Let me know if any of you need some help. It is basically an easy knit and even this first one will be YOURS not anyone elses which is where I get the most pleasure.

If you have any ideas that can improve this discussion, please let me know. I think it is working and I think you all are getting what I am trying to teach you. Praise be!!


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## Nonalehm

Thanks for this workshop. I have cast on for T shaped sweater. I think my numbers are correct, but as I look at my body, lumpy and all, I think the sideways may be better in the long run. However I have my head around the T and will continue. I am learning so much.
=================
If there is interest - we will definitely do the sideways sweater- only we will try to fit it to our bodies and although not a major change, we will do more adjusting to our own shapes. This is ongoing. You likely will find the type of sweater that you like best for your body like I did and use it as a base and then change texture,color, add collars, change sleeves, and make an original out of each one. It doesn't happen over night.

We can also plan on doing some texture on the next sweater and I hope you will be feeling more and more that this is a method you will use in the future. Remember lots of sweaters on ravelry have interesting textures. If I see a texture I like I often put it in one of my sweaters. So this will be where you will want to keep unusual patterns and textures when you see something that appeals to you. I have a huge number of patterns which I will never make as is, but there is something about them individually that I find interesting and of possible use. I am going to start doing one or two one color textured sweaters as I have done a lot with color as the main theme so it is an ongoing learning curve for us all.
====================================

Just an aside: I think our attitude and feelings are very involved in doing our own thing so I am taking the liberty of explaining where I come from, as it is part and parcel of my knitting. Maybe you will feel the same way with the same attitude. If you do you will find this process very very worthwhile. You will suddenly be full of ideas that you never thought of before. You will have a sweater on your needles all the time, trying new ideas. Some will work better than others. I rarely pull out a sweater, as I always look for ways to 'fix' what I have started. I NEVER plan a sweater completely. I start and it is like a painting - start and then do what feels right when you get there . I never worry about what I am going to do in the next section. I just knit the one I am working on and decide what I want to do as I go along.

===================================
Everything in this workshop was learned from trying different things - some worked some didn't but each attempt taught me something about myself and each success gave me quiet satisfaction and sometimes (often) joy.

I hope to see your own designs on Pictures quite often. When you do your own work, make sure you always say so.

This workshop will be part of the archives for the Workshop section so you can come back and new people can use it as long as KP exists. That gives me so much pleasure.

I remember my thought a few years ago, when I saw so many KP members helping others with suggestions and help -it gave me the idea for these workshops.

When I got permission from admin to open this section, I had no idea whether people would agree to teach but all our teachers had a ball and many of them have offered to teach whenever we ask. So satisfying when I see the list of finished workshops. If you have the time, go to the Workshops home page here and read the list of workshops and check out a couple. We never have had a failed workshop.

I have had a dear friend prismaticr who has been on this journey with me. She is still the other manager although right now she has her plate full with a new grand baby and other things happening in her life. She is always there to help me and I know she has my back covered, as they say.

Lupines is going to help me with the classes this next year and I appreciate it. She is obviously a good knitter and we will work together helping the teachers by highlighting and other ways.

I am not sure whether I will leave my posts on my feelings about this process or not. I will wait until I sort out the workshop to go into the archives. My feelings are so tied in with these projects I think it helps if people know the mindset so that they understand how satisfying this is.
----------------------------------------


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## mildredL2

Hi Shirley, I am so glad you are not having a time limit on the workshop. I am a very slow knitter, and have limited time each day to knit, so, still have a few inches of the front to do before reaching the yoke.
Seem to spend a lot of time re-arranging the 3 balls of yarn to prevent tangling (another great reason to try the sideways skirt next time!)

I really love the sweaters you have shown as examples, absolutely love the multi-colored skirts!
So, I am voting "yes" to your idea of keeping on with the workshop to do another sweater with the sideways skirt, if it would be possible. And, thank you again for all the time you devote to sharing so much information and your photos of inspiring and gorgeous sweaters!

You are very welcome. People like you are the reason we are holding this class. I feel the enthusiasm for doing things this way. The sweater we are making won't please everyone. But you know the process now and the side knit one will give us a more definite idea of what we want to accomplish for our next one) there is always a next one in my life - I hope it will be that way in yours. This type of knitting can be used for other people. Just measure them and ask them their color choice and away you go. Don't ask them what they want. Tell them it will be one of a kind. And go for it. If you are close, try it on them, otherwise just follow your ideas, and down the road you will be able to knit a sweater that fits and is the only one of its kind in the 'world'.
=============================

I belong to the seniors group here in our new home town and there is a lady who knits the most glorious ganseys and very involved patterned cardigans mostly from the British Isles . I was wearing one of my sweaters one day and she stopped me and we talked. I explained that it was my own design and then I told her that I was not l/10th the knitter she was. She grabbed my hand and said" but I follow a pattern and there are thousands of this type of sweaters knitted every day -- yours are absolutely one of a kind" It make me tear up.

She asked me if I would help her design her own and we are going to start spending some time next week. In fact I am going to give her the link to this workshop. Her sweaters are perfectly knit and I have to get over the fact that she is an expert, so it will be interesting.


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## chuckmary

I am loving this process, but I do not understand how the yoke, underarm, drop sleeve part works. Sorry I also am not sure how to ask about this. I like the look of the yellow sweater. The collar the drop sleeves etc. what am I to do when I get to the yoke? Do I cast on for the underarm? Do I need to cast on or increase somehow for the drop sleeve? The collar part or neck part I understand. It is the shoulder part I don't get. Is there a way that you can show a picture of the side seam and underarm of the yellow sweater? Mary

 I apologize! I missed your question, I will take a picture and post it.

I can't believe I missed it as I go over the questions so often when I come on line. I can't answer for a couple of hours as I am leaving to get a perm! once again, I am really sorry I ignored your question. I will take a picture as soon as I get back. Shirley


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## Ctown Nana

Jacklou said:


> One thing I would like to know. Do you find the colored answers helpful or confusing? Do you think this helps the workshop. I will be helping teachers each month and I wonder if the colors are helpful[/u].
> 
> So let me know honestly what you think. Shirley


Yes, I think the colored answers are extremely helpful and really helps the workshop. Keep it up.[/quote]

I too love having the answers to questions in the different color [blue seems to jump right out]. Life has intervened, but I have been able to start the bottom of my sweater and hope to be able to get up to the yoke today. I will need to make my yoke fairly long to allow room for the "girls"...about 10 inches I think. I am much more of an apple shape [who IS that woman who looks back at me in the mirror??]. I will try to send a photo of what I have been able to knit so far. I am doing the bottom side to side with one color, but different stitches.

===================
 WOW! YOUVE GOT IT!!This is going to be a beautiful sweater. I love it that you have just made up different stitch designs and gone for it. I rarely ever plan that either. I knit one band and then change to another color and a different design and on through the project. Just make sure, and I am not sure whether I made this clear. Make sure you don't do different lengths. Make sure your edge sides are straight across. I am so please. I know now you have the idea and the interest in the side knitting.


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## J-Jean

I have not started my sweater yet, as I am a bit confused by the whole process. I plan to knit the T sweater bottom up. I will CO 88sts. and work to the armhole and then start the yoke. Here is my confusion,. Do I just continue knitting on the 88sts. until I reach my desired start for the neck in my Color B?

You knit the bottom until you get to the your under arm. You will have the two main colors on the side and the colored section up the front. I have discussed the ways you have to do that. you either have to divide your main color yarn into two balls - then knit across until where you are starting the T then change to the T color, and then change using a 2nd ball of the main color across to the other edge. you will continue doing that until you get to your underarm.

the other method is knit the stitches along the sides so that way you do so many inches of one color change to the center color and then change back to the main color then turn the bottom so that the side is on top. All this information has been covered. Don't worry and don't feel overwhelmed it is a really easy sweater it is the concept that is different. Good luck.

You can also, if you wish, take the two or three closest main stitches to the T color and knit them purl. This will give you a frame for your T - please read back as all that information is there. I posted a picture of how it should look. Then you start knitting across the whole top, Istarting when you reach the under arm. This will be the color you use right up until the front and back shoulders are joined, after you have knit the space for your neck.

If you don't understand this, just take your time, read the instructions once or twice and then read this post. We will all do our necks at the same time and I have already suggested how this should be done. The main thing is take one step at a time and don't over think it. I hope this helps.


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## knit bunny

For the side to side I want to make a cardigan. Do you recommend a provisional cast-on so I have live stitches for my front band? If so, do you have a favorite? I plan to make the bottom in one piece as a sampler so the ending side would already be live stitches.
------------------------------------------------------
 I think we should finish this one before we start deciding on our second sweater -lets keep doing this one. Once it is done we will think about our next project. It is hard not to do that as it is still so much fun. However, I get into trouble myself if I am knitting another sweater in my head before I finish this one. I make absolutely no decision about my next sweater until I have a clear mind. That is one of the things I learned the hard way. Each sweater is a new voyage. Lets arrive at our destination with this one. Decide what is good for you and what is bad. It will be a completely separate class.

*I will help those who want to do a cardigan and we will discuss how I do it and you can decide how you all want to do it using your own favorite methods*


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## LUVCRAFTS

I am knitting sideways. Measurement under arm to bottom: 11-1/2". Hip with 2" ease is 37. I cast on 46 stitches. I am doing the t model. How many stitches do I knit across ? 76 stitches?

Do I then divide it by 3 if I want all 3 panels the same size ?
Thanks so much for all your help!

That is up to each knitter. HOWEVER However I think it looks better with the center panel narrower by at least an inch than the others. So read the part where it is suggested that you make a strip and hold it against your body to see which is the best size for you.

I am not able to decide these things, that is where you have to take a leap and make those kind of decisions yourself. Each of us looks at things differently. You want to use YOUR opinion, not mine. good luck!


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## MarilynKnits

I got an e-mail from Care2 about using color and wanted to share the link with all of you. They are talking about paint, but there is some interesting material on color theory that may supplement Shirley's information on using color to make our knitting more exciting and individual.

http://painting.about.com/od/colourtheory/ss/color_theory.htm?utm_content=6131295&utm_medium=email&utm_source=cn_nl&utm_campaign=artcraftsl&utm_term=

 Thankyou for all your help on this workshop Marilyn. I would also, (as previously mentioned) strongly urge you to read 'Conversations about color" and "Conversations about texture" it is a conversation about both that I held and it goes into detail how to choose colors and texture and different ideas. I think every knitter would find it useful.It is in the list of workshops in this section. check it out it is definitely part of what we need to know in this new road you are now on.

Thanks again Marilyn I appreciate the information you have posted and the help I know you always offer.


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## J-Jean

Thank you. I just wasn't sure about the number of stitches when working the yoke. Sorry, you had to type all that out. Thanks again!

You never have to apologize. I have posted an huge amount on this subject and I understand completely. I am here to help you in any way I can. Don't hesitate to ask for help. This is a completely different way of doing things. I really want everyone to understand what they can do. Ask any thing at any time!


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## Designer1234

I have spent the last little while working on the sleeves of my 2016
Sweater for a Stranger.

I have just finished the first cuff and I want to introduce you to my favorite pattern for sock cuffs and any other cuff. I will find the actual name and written pattern and post it for you in a few minites meanwhile you might know the name - is this the twisted rib?

If you know you will save me some time. It starts with a knit 2 together, knit into the first stitch twice and drop the unused stitch. You will end up with two knit stitches. I do them every 4 rows.That isn't the one on U tube . I have looked through my stitch information and I cant find it.

you knit two together but don't drop the stitches. Hold one stitch back and knit two into the next stitch and drop the first one. It is a very simple but effective stitch.

I have spread this apart on my ribs and use it all the time. I would love it if anyone knows the right name. I saw it on KP but the name of the stitch wasn't included.

Help would be appreciated!


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## run4fittness

Well, I am on page 8 and need to take a break! This is a lot of wonderful information. I am doing mine in the round, one color up to the yoke. Not sure yet what I am going to do with the yoke. I want a rounded neck, but not sure how much ribbing I want on the neck.

Thank you so much Shirley. This is really good and gives me a lot to think about.


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## mildredL2

Hi Shirley, that is a beautiful cuff, I think it looks like the Twisted Cable Rib Stitch:

http://newstitchaday.com/how-knit-twisted-cable-rib-stitch

 YOU ARE RIGHT. I have even gone to the library to find it . I appreciate it very much as others have asked me. thanks my friend!


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## NanaW

I have read everything about the yoke you posted and more or less understand it. My question is that once I get to the underarm part or just a little above, do I bind off those three colors for the T part , pick up stitches for the variegated and then continue all the way across to the neck. I apologize if you explained this earlier and I am over looking it.
-------------------------

* YOKE *
 Yes there are two ways you can do it.

You might find your method the best, - I am looking at mine and it looks as if I carried on with the center color in the seed stitch across to the edge and then carried it back across the whole top. This would not work if you were doing stocking stitch for the T and (most other types of patterns}

I think I would just knit a row with the three sections, then change over to the T color and start knitting again, making sure your T Bar stitch is used. You want to make sure the T Bar is seamless and carries on the pattern. In other words the pattern carries on in the cross bar.

IF IT DOESN'T, you can easily hide the difference by doing 2. 3 or 4 rows of purl in theT bar color, all across the top, and then change to your pattern from then on up. It would not have to balance completely in that case. It would be your choice whether to have the strip across (bar) the same color as your T color, or whether you use a different color as I often do (check out my pictures.). It is entirely up to you about changing the color.

Then carry on across the whole front in the T color up until the bottom of the neck, That is located where you decide.

It sounds confusing. It really isn't. None of this business is really confusing as you solve each problem as you get to it, write it down and then have it as a guideline in the future


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## lupines

I'm a little behind on reading, but I want to share my mistake.

For the bottom up T sweater.
Designer said she often P2 on each side of the center panel. So I thought I would do a P1 in the main color, twist my yarns and do the second P1 in the other color. I thought the P2 section would be a little lower than the main portion of the stockinette stitch and the color change would be camouflaged..... Not so much! 
I've attached two pictures - one shows the "vertical bumps" on the right side in the purl ditch. Just too visible for me.
The other - wrong side - shows the color change in not apparent between two knit stitches.

ETA: Off to the frog pond!!

 don't forget to write that and use a hilighter in your note book! It took me 3 tries years ago to figure out how to make those purl rows look good. I finally just use them the way they do with cable patterns. Sometimes the well planned ways work best. So I follow some of the rules but sometimes bend them a bit.

Actually, that is something I want to mention - don't try to change the way you do everything. The lessons learned over the years are because many people tried other ways and the way they finally figured out, was the best way. USE YOUR KNOWLEDGE but use it your own way! Sometimes if you change things it really works out to your satisfaction. You will spend a lot of time frogging, (I did and still do some times) but don't let that stop you from trying something. That is why the notebook is sooo important. It becomes your guide. This first one is the most important as you will refer to it often.

As time goes by you will start to do things automatically and will be able to figure out a lot of times, what will, or wont work with much more certainty.

So with the next sweater if you do it with us, (we can wait a couple of weeks to start so you are not rushed finishing this one) you are going to find your courage and before you ask a question you are going to try to figure out what works yourself. I am not going to teach it until this sweater is finished. So you can't stop in mid stream with this one!!

It is scary and we all have a fear of trying something that is 'not done ' in other people's eyes or that will fail in the attempt.

YOU MUST DECIDE not to allow yourself to feel badly if you make a mistake. You will be teaching yourself to do things you DON'T KNOW HOW TO DO. But you will figure them out and the sense of satisfaction will be worth the wondering and the worry.

I have over the years wanted to do something and I have laid (lain???) awake at night trying to figure out how to do something I wanted to do. I sometimes got up in the night to try a new idea. A lot of them worked, some didn't . This is an adventure, but I promise if you want to do it and you jump in and DO IT, you won't believe what you can accomplish! It is so worth it to lose your fear of failure.

You are already walking through a door that will never close. I hope that even if you don't design all your own sweaters , you remember the attitude - which will make a difference in your knitting. Some people say, I could never do that! I have said since I was little 'I wonder how I can do that'

That is what I want for all of you!


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## JeanJean

hi, shirley. isigned up earlier and am excited to participate. however, Ibroke a wrist the other day so will have to do the knitting later. but will be following along and learning all the exciting [to me] things you are sharing. Thanks.

 I am soooo sorry! just stick with us and read my 'book' 4 or 5 times! grin. I hope your wrist isn't too painful. Don't try to do anything too soon. We all are thinking about you! Drop in and tell us what you think and how you feel about this ongoing discussion, class. I hope everyone is enjoying it as much as I am.


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## Treenya

Hi Shirley
I work at a full time job so am having trouble keeping up with the reading. Have chosen to spend my free moments knitting. I am doing the T top and am almost to the arm hole mark. Then will spend time reading on where to start yoke.

 It looks exactly the way it should. It is going to be a really nice sweater. I just covered a bit about changing to the top of the T this morning and I believe I covered it before, but go with your own ideas of how to change from the vertical bar to the T bar. I have given a couple of ideas so that will help. Obviously you are doing really well. You will end up with a nice first sweater.


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## Susan65

I was going to do knit in the round as I really like doing the back and front at the same time so I'm sure they are even without having to count rows or carefully measure and my stitches go quicker and look better. I'm doing the T bottom up sweater. Have 12 rows of garter stitch done and just figured out I outsmarted myself. When I started to do the variegated part of the T, I realized my variegated yarn will be at the end of the section and I won't be able to pick it up at the beginning of the section on the next row. (Hope that makes sense). Bummer. Looks like I'll have to frog and start over doing the front and back separately. I've done several sweaters in the round in stripes, but have never changed colors in the middle of a row. Lesson learned.


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## craft crazy

Susan65 said:


> When I started to do the variegated part of the T, I realized my variegated yarn will be at the end of the section and I won't be able to pick it up at the beginning of the section on the next row. (Hope that makes sense). Bummer. Looks like I'll have to frog and start over doing the front and back separately. I've done several sweaters in the round in stripes, but have never changed colors in the middle of a row. Lesson learned.


When you get to the "T" part couldn't you continue the variegated yarn to the side (where seam would be if knit flat) and continue that colour. Only one side section would have 1 extra row. Or even better alternate the 2 colours for a couple of rows as a division between the bodty and yoke of sweater!

 You are correct. I did one of mine and the difference of one row doesn't show at all. Thanks for the suggestion!!


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## knit bunny

Maybe you could change the center to a textured panel of the same solid yarn.



Susan65 said:


> I was going to do knit in the round as I really like doing the back and front at the same time so I'm sure they are even without having to count rows or carefully measure and my stitches go quicker and look better. I'm doing the T bottom up sweater. Have 12 rows of garter stitch done and just figured out I outsmarted myself. When I started to do the variegated part of the T, I realized my variegated yarn will be at the end of the section and I won't be able to pick it up at the beginning of the section on the next row. (Hope that makes sense). Bummer. Looks like I'll have to frog and start over doing the front and back separately. I've done several sweaters in the round in stripes, but have never changed colors in the middle of a row. Lesson learned.


 see suggestion above with my answer! Your choice of which way you want to do it mark it down in your notebook


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## Susan65

Actually instead of frogging, thought I'd try something else. I added a second cable so I now have one for the front and one for the back. Put my needles on one cable and the round end holders on the other. Added a stitch at each end of the row to allow for sewing up the sides and started working back forth for the front. May be a little awkward for the first few rows but am hoping it will work. :?

 You are doing exactly what I hoped you would all start doing. Looking for answers yourselves. It means that you 'get it'! I hope you will carry on and let us know if it works and if it does what are is your opinions of this method? If you think you see a good idea, WRITE IT DOWN say it was suggested in the workshop.


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## Designer1234

I just found another picture of a sweater I had forgotten about - which I made for one of my friends before we moved here. YOu will not the cables up the sides. I would not make it again, as the front section is a big square right where my stomach sits and I realized I should have taken the pattern up the whole sweater with the cables on the side rather than cut the sweater in half. The lady I gave it to has a slender shape with a larger top and it looked great on her. Just goes to show , what suits one doesn't always suit someone else . We want to figure out what suits us.It is a very pretty combination -it just didn't suit my shape. I like the edging in cables only I would take it up higher. She looks great in it..


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## Susan65

Correction to last post. Frogged back to garter stitch band. I did not join in round until finished last row of band, so also undid join. Started knitting one large flat piece of both front and back. This takes a long time to knit rows but am doing front and back at the same time and I will have one side seam to sew. Hope I don't sound nuts but this seems to be working better.

 that shouldn't be a problem. I think it will work well for you. I have thought often of doing it this way, and then forget when I cast on. Let us know how it works for you, and I would love to see a picture


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## Becoolwraps

Hi Shirley ! Thanks for your hard work on doing this workshop. I hope you don't mind, but I have been knitting your design using a knitting machine. (I am tr ting to learn how to use one I received from a friend). So far, so good! I have been doing it sideways, and have ompletedthe front and back lower body. I am keeping a notebook on all the instructions you are giving. Again - Thank You!
Terry in Abbotsford

 Hi Terri, you are just across the Gulf Islands from us! I am in Duncan, Vancouver Isl .
I wondered whether it might work for a machine. I can't see any reason why it wouldn't. Would you keep me informed and spend pictures if you can?


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## tami_ohio

Nonalehm said:


> Thanks for this workshop. I have cast on for T shaped sweater. I think my numbers are correct, but as I look at my body, lumpy and all, I think the sideways may be better in the long run. However I have my head around the T and will continue. I am learning so much.
> =================
> If there is interest - we will definitely do the sideways sweater- only we will try to fit it to our bodies and although not a major change, we will do more adjusting to our own shapes. This is ongoing. You likely will find the type of sweater that you like best for your body like I did and use it as a base and then change texture,color, add collars, change sleeves, and make an original out of each one. It doesn't happen over night.
> 
> We can also plan on doing some texture on the next sweater and I hope you will be feeling more and more that this is a method you will use in the future. Remember lots of sweaters on ravelry have interesting textures. If I see a texture I like I often put it in one of my sweaters. So this will be where you will want to keep unusual patterns and textures when you see something that appeals to you. I have a huge number of patterns which I will never make as is, but there is something about them individually that I find interesting and of possible use. I am going to start doing one or two one color textured sweaters as I have done a lot with color as the main theme so it is an ongoing learning curve for us all.
> ====================================
> 
> Just an aside: I think our attitude and feelings are very involved in doing our own thing so I am taking the liberty of explaining where I come from, as it is part and parcel of my knitting. Maybe you will feel the same way with the same attitude. If you do you will find this process very very worthwhile. You will suddenly be full of ideas that you never thought of before. You will have a sweater on your needles all the time, trying new ideas. Some will work better than others. I rarely pull out a sweater, as I always look for ways to 'fix' what I have started. I NEVER plan a sweater completely. I start and it is like a painting - start and then do what feels right when you get there . I never worry about what I am going to do in the next section. I just knit the one I am working on and decide what I want to do as I go along.
> 
> ===================================
> Everything in this workshop was learned from trying different things - some worked some didn't but each attempt taught me something about myself and each success gave me quiet satisfaction and sometimes (often) joy.
> 
> I hope to see your own designs on Pictures quite often. When you do your own work, make sure you always say so.
> 
> This workshop will be part of the archives for the Workshop section so you can come back and new people can use it as long as KP exists. That gives me so much pleasure.
> 
> I remember my thought a few years ago, when I saw so many KP members helping others with suggestions and help -it gave me the idea for these workshops.
> 
> When I got permission from admin to open this section, I had no idea whether people would agree to teach but all our teachers had a ball and many of them have offered to teach whenever we ask. So satisfying when I see the list of finished workshops. If you have the time, go to the Workshops home page here and read the list of workshops and check out a couple. We never have had a failed workshop.
> 
> I have had a dear friend prismaticr who has been on this journey with me. She is still the other manager although right now she has her plate full with a new grand baby and other things happening in her life. She is always there to help me and I know she has my back covered, as they say.
> 
> Lupines is going to help me with the classes this next year and I appreciate it. She is obviously a good knitter and we will work together helping the teachers by highlighting and other ways.
> 
> I am not sure whether I will leave my posts on my feelings about this process or not. I will wait until I sort out the workshop to go into the archives. My feelings are so tied in with these projects I think it helps if people know the mindset so that they understand how satisfying this is.
> ----------------------------------------


Shirley, please do leave your comments on your feelings in the workshop when you finish the workshop for the archives. It really helps me to understand why you chose to do a certain thing at a certain place. Sort of an extra explanation, that I need.

 If you think they help understand the reasons I love what I do, then, certainly I will. I hope you all agree. I don't want to sound self serving or maudlin, but what I have written is what I do feel so I will.


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## tami_ohio

mildredL2 said:


> Hi Shirley, I am so glad you are not having a time limit on the workshop. I am a very slow knitter, and have limited time each day to knit, so, still have a few inches of the front to do before reaching the yoke.
> Seem to spend a lot of time re-arranging the 3 balls of yarn to prevent tangling (another great reason to try the sideways skirt next time!)
> 
> I really love the sweaters you have shown as examples, absolutely love the multi-colored skirts!
> So, I am voting "yes" to your idea of keeping on with the workshop to do another sweater with the sideways skirt, if it would be possible. And, thank you again for all the time you devote to sharing so much information and your photos of inspiring and gorgeous sweaters!
> 
> You are very welcome. People like you are the reason we are holding this class. I feel the enthusiasm for doing things this way. The sweater we are making won't please everyone. But you know the process now and the side knit one will give us a more definite idea of what we want to accomplish for our next one) there is always a next one in my life - I hope it will be that way in yours. This type of knitting can be used for other people. Just measure them and ask them their color choice and away you go. Don't ask them what they want. Tell them it will be one of a kind. And go for it. If you are close, try it on them, otherwise just follow your ideas, and down the road you will be able to knit a sweater that fits and is the only one of its kind in the 'world'.
> =============================
> 
> I belong to the seniors group here in our new home town and there is a lady who knits the most glorious ganseys and very involved patterned cardigans mostly from the British Isles . I was wearing one of my sweaters one day and she stopped me and we talked. I explained that it was my own design and then I told her that I was not l/10th the knitter she was. She grabbed my hand and said" but I follow a pattern and there are thousands of this type of sweaters knitted every day -- yours are absolutely one of a kind" It make me tear up.
> 
> She asked me if I would help her design her own and we are going to start spending some time next week. In fact I am going to give her the link to this workshop. Her sweaters are perfectly knit and I have to get over the fact that she is an expert, so it will be interesting.


Shirley, what an inspiration! It makes me realize that we are all experts in some things, just not always experts where we think we should be. To her, you are an expert in designing your own sweaters, to you, she is an expert in knitting complicated patterns. To her, what you do is complicated. All she has to do is knit how the pattern tells her to knit.


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## Ctown Nana

Designer1234 said:


> I just found another picture of a sweater I had forgotten about - which I made for one of my friends before we moved here. YOu will not the cables up the sides. I would not make it again, as the front section is a big square right where my stomach sits and I realized I should have taken the pattern up the whole sweater with the cables on the side rather than cut the sweater in half. The lady I gave it to has a slender shape with a larger top and it looked great on her. Just goes to show , what suits one doesn't always suit someone else . We want to figure out what suits us.It is a very pretty combination -it just didn't suit my shape. I like the edging in cables only I would take it up higher. She looks great in it.


Great sweater Shirley--I so agree that we all look better in certain styles. I usually favor a wider neckline [can't wear a tight neck on a sweater]. I think I have made the neck large enough on the top below. Will we be joining the back and front of the sweater at the shoulder? No rush to answer...just don't want to get ahead of myself. Thanks so much!!!


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## Designer1234

Ctown Nana said:


> Great sweater Shirley--I so agree that we all look better in certain styles. I usually favor a wider neckline [can't wear a tight neck on a sweater]. I think I have made the neck large enough on the top below. Will we be joining the back and front of the sweater at the shoulder? No rush to answer...just don't want to get ahead of myself. Thanks so much!!!


 Yes you want to knit it the same and cast off the same amount across the neck. One thing the hardest part of this process is the size and shape of the neck for me. I have a very small neck and I always seem to make it too big. As a result I sometimes do two different types of ribbing on the one neck, or I crochet a bit tighter and on and on.

So knit your back. I knit the back the main color without the bar so it is a plain colored knit right up to the underarm when you will add the other color for the top of the T on the back - (there is no T shape just the top bar).

I think yours is coming along beautifuly. keep up the good work and send more pictures. Shirley


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## weteach4ulinda

Shirley I have the back done as I am a creature of habit and have always done that. I did not want square shoulders so I cast off 5 stitches for 8 rows and then put the rest of my stitches on a stitch holder and started on the front. I have more stitches than I need for my neck so would it look alright to decrease on a couple of rows? I am adding a small panel of stitches up the front using an accent color. I do not want the t stripe at the top so where do you suggest I end it? Linda

 I think you have a pretty good idea of what you are doing. If you don't want the drop sleeve it becomes a bit more involved but it sounds as if you feel you can do it so just do it the way you wish. You know your own shape and you know what you want. You can end it at the neck, or wherever you wish.  It is your sweater. You could add a line across in a nice band, and then pick up the solid color for the top for the yoke and end it there or just not bother with the other color. I can't do it this way for you and you are quite confident so just go for it. I really think you will figure it out. Obviously you are doing the changes already so I think you are certainly able to end up with the sweater you want. If you aren't sure, look for some patterns that appeal to you and just see how they do it. I am sure you will do a good job


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## AKnitWit

Picture--this is my first garment!! So appreciate this workshop!!

As you see my intarsia has improved as I continue to knit. 
k32,P2, K22, P2, K32

8 inches in length. My plan is to knit to 16 inches. My measurements are; Bust 37, waist 35, hips 40.

Looking at this I think it would have been a good idea to decrease a few rows at waistline which measures 10 and 3 / 4 from below arm.

 That is going to be a lovely sweater!! Your life is never going to be the same again. Just imagine - your first garment and you are making your own design for your sweater. Gooooood job!!! Mark down in your notebook a notation - 'next time decrease a bit for the waist.

The sweater we are doing as a general idea is the one without the waist taken in. I would just continue the straight up one for this one and the next one you can plan to put a bit of a waist in. (just my opinion). I think this one will be lovely! I think you might be quite tall and slim so just make sure your sweater is long enough. One lady I taught was quite tall and she had to redoe the neck as she started it before the body length was right.
Shirley


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## AmberSparkles

So funny, I just tried to post a pic of my sweater front (first time to do a pic). It didn't land here... I think it is on the forum some where Sigh

I found it for you. You opened a new topic on this section, As we don't have conversation topics except in very special cases, I found it easily. So it is here now! :thumbup: :thumbup:


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## AKnitWit

AmberSparkles said:


> So funny, I just tried to post a pic of my sweater front (first time to do a pic). It didn't land here... I think it is on the forum some where... Sigh


When that happens to me I visualize it floating out in cyberspace trying to figure out where it is meant to land

 I learned to do it one way at the beginning . I pull the picture onto the desk top. click on choose and make sure that it goes to the desk top - there should be a place somewhere at the side or top of your page which will show'desktop' among other places, including downloads, etc.If you see desktop click on it and then leave it permanently there. then when you click on 'choose' below your post you will click on the one with the same number. It takes a long time sometimes. So give it a few minutes. I couldn't figure out where mine were going for the longest time. At the top you will see where it is downloading by a blue line. if you see the blue line (fairly short) it means it is loading) at least that is the way it works on my mac.

I think if you did give enough time you had another destination which it went to. To get it from your photos just click on it and pull it to your desk top then do the above. I hope this helps. It depends on how many pixels there are set on your camera. I just wait it out.If there is a blue line at the top of the page just hang in there. It took awhile for me to realize when people talk about a large picture on line they don't necessarily mean the size in inches. They mean the pixels which, if they are a large number might take a long time to load.


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## AmberSparkles

Thank you for that visual pic. It is a beautiful world out there. (I could actually see sweaters of multiple colors floating around!). My floating sweater front did land.

I can imagine beautiful sweaters floating all over


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## AKnitWit

Yep saw it in today's email from KP for March 1. I like the neck very much. I am a bit hesitant to try a V as this is my first garment.

you can always search -- HOW TO KNIT A V NECK ON A BOTTOM UP SWEATER, AND THEN HOW TO KNIT A CREW NECK ON A BOTTOM UP SWEATER.

Get the information for both and make your decision as to what type of neck you want, and go for it.
====================================
 *IMPORTANT SUGGESTION*

I have mentioned searching on line for information. This is really really important for anyone who wants new information as to how to do something that you are unfamiliar with. I use Google, but there are other search programs and you type in what you want to know, as clearly as possible and search the subject. You will receive a list of places where you can find the information. I would check out 3 or 4 that look as if they will give you the information.

*THEN keep the link in your bookmarks and also put the link in with the page for the project you are working on. I sometimes look up projects I put in my workbook years ago. You might, however if you get books written up like I have - just research it again* -

Just keep track some way. one book I have all the links on a page OR put it 'MY PAGES at the top of your posts on the second line along from my profile" in KP. Jessica Jean would be able to suggest how to use KP to keep a list of links as she has so many and uses them to help KP members. I am sure she would help you by suggesting the best way to keep them together on line.

Searching is one of the most helpful things to help us design and decide what we want to do. Don't let yourself avoid a 
design or idea because you are scared of it. Just try it. Those who try, succeed - those who don't try, don't succeed in learning new things.

This is really important and start searching. Another thing I do is 'brows' through ravelry and other pages looking for ideas. The styles change over the years and it is good to know what the latest ideas are. However, I am not concerned about that so much in my knitting as I do what appeals to me and that is my guideline

*NOTE* I am posting as many links as possible all together on the last page of this workshop which changes by the way as I trim. right now it is on page 26 and could go to page 25 (the joys of teaching a workshop ! So any of you who have links that give information on how to do a pattern, or instructions for doing something that will be helpful in making your own designs, please post there! thanks : :thumbup: :thumbup:


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## AmberSparkles

Have no fear! It's the first time I've done this neck. I figure if I hate this... I'll have a lot of Dishrags! I am concerned about the back neck. I'm going to have to do some decreases?, so it will fit over my head. I'll worry about that later  I'm so happy that that you are knitting your first garment, go girl!!

 You should be aware of your head measurement. I find that if you don't go too wide on a 'crew neck" (circular neck with ribbing) you can do what I do. Dont make the neck wide but make it deeper in the front. I rarely do much to the back neck - all my adjustment is in the front. I sometimes decrease one or two rows for the neckat the back, but I rarely knit anything but a drop sleeve which is different than a fitted top.. If you are NOT doing the drop sleeve sweater then I would search for different ways to make your neck fit, go on line and ask HOW DO I MAKE SURE THAT MY NECK FITS OVER MY HEAD WITHOUT HAVING TO MAKE IT TOO WIDE> (That is what I searched and I learned a lot.

You have to decide whether you are knitting a V neck as it goes deeper into the yoke, whereas a circular or wider neck doesn't dip as much. That is something you all will have to decide for each individual sweater.


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## Frannitty

I have started on the front--as a sideways.
Can I use different weight yarns on the front and back?
Not much different--but maybe a 1/4 or 1/2 stitch per inch in my gauge/
Thanks,
Frran

* Excellent question. It is up to you. It would depend how many inches it totals (the difference) you have to decide whether you want to do that - one thing you could do is do a swatch as if you multiply 1/2 times the number of inches it could work into quite a big difference. Say there are 4.5 stitches per in for 40 inches

40X 4.5 = 180 stitches.

40 x 4 = 160 stitches so that is a pretty big difference

I am glad you asked that as I meant to draw that to all your attention. 1/2 stitch per inch can really add up around the body. So if you are doing say, l5 inches,as you are knitting sideways, it would be the following difference

15 x 4.5 = 67.5 stitches

15 x 4 =60 stitches which 7.5 stitches different which would be close to two inches.

You could use a larger needles but your stitches might look different. you could also cast on 7 or 8 stitches to your cast on to balance you back and front.* up to you.


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## Designer1234

I am bringing a picture and a post from some of those knitting, and lurking who were posting on a separate topic. Just make sure that you come back to this link all the time. I will re post the picture for her.


Here is her message (
amber Sparkles wrote:I'm ready to start the back. I have no idea what I'm doing but I'm loving this journey. This is the first time that I've attempted to post a pic.


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## Treenya

Hi again,

I am trying to decide when to start my neck opening. I have knit approx. 4.5 inches up from my sleeve marker. I think I would like the neck opening to be scoop neck, but not too deep. I do not think I would do any decreasing on the back. My head measures 22 inches. I think I would need 16 inches for the sleeve. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Tina

find the center of your front, then decrease as you would for an ordinary neck. Make sure you don't do it too loosely, (ask me how I know). Make sure you have given your self enough yoke, as if someone is busty they will need more space than someone who is flat chested or small, like me. Just ad an extra inch of knitting before you start your neck.

For the sleeves, measure from the shoulder to under the arm of the sweater - once you have joined the two shoulder seams on both sides. that is the last part we do. do your neck decreases and ribbing. You want it to fit on your neck.

If you have made a sweater with a neck you like, use the stitches and pattern for your neck.


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## AmberSparkles

Thank you so much for finding my sweater and placing it on the proper place. And right side up too!! I've stared at it all day. Now I'll do some research, so it will fit around my head. Thank you again...


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## Designer1234

Deb. Post your question again . I might have somehow deleted it when I was typing the last instructions. I apologize if that is the case.

If you are just arriving, go back to the first page of the workshop and read it two or three times. It will tell you how to measure and calculate your bottom area and so start and away you go!

* you must have started a new topic as I found your message at the following link

http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-391860-1.html

so how about writing it here and posting the picture here.

REMEMBER EVERYONE this is the only link for the workshop. Don't open a new link or it won't be posted here. It is easy to do*. so make sure when you post that you post on this topic. See the link above at the top of this page. It will be in your watched topics or your 'my posts' All talk about the workshops should go in this topic subject. It might also be a good idea to book mark this topic in your bookmarks for future use. Hope this helps. Shirley


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## Deb Hjelseth

I am happy with everything so far. As with most of us, life gets in the way and I'm not as far along as I'd like. My center "t" section is the peaches and cream stripe color way so I am alternating balls every two rows so there won't be as big a change when I end one ball. This will be interesting when I get up to the underarm. Learning, searching, etc. The biggest issue right now is keeping the yarns straight. I was asked why two cirs. I'm not sure how I would do it otherwise, my center yarn would be at the wrong place if I didn't.

I bought two plastic baskets from Superstore (Canadian store), and I put one in each basket and just lift the basket and move it either over or under each time. It works quite well. I think your sweater is going to be lovely! It is so nice to see them starting to appear and as I said this is basically a simple sweater so it isn't going to be that hard once we get the front neck part done. then knit the back without the bar down the center of the back, just across the T bar of the T so it will knit up faster. Personally as I mentioned, I don't use much shaping on the back. so once you have both the fronts dont, with the neck cast off. put it in the center of the back and make sure the edges end at the same place on the shouilders. then sew the shoulder seems together.

Then you can decide how deep you will need your sleeve hole. In some cases it will mean your side seam might need to be up into the yoke as the sleeve top is at the shoulders and is knit from there. my arms are quite small so I don't have to make a very big hole. Those with bigger arms just make the hole deep enough your your arms to be comfortable. Then there are two ways to do your sleeves.

cast them on with the same width on each side of the shoulder seam, lying flat. I usually do it that way for short sleeves as it is faster. However if you are doing another sweater with longer sleeves, you can do them with magic loop or circulars. It is up to you. Knit them the length you want using the T yarn and put a narrow ribbing on the bottom. Then sew up the sides and across the bottom of the sleeve. When I made my first one I basted the sides together and was able to tell I had left too much for the arm hole so I knitted the sleeves across the should seam and down each side until the measurement was a good length for my arm. sew up the seams (side and underarm). and if you have not done the bottom border, do it now. (I like to do it last incase I have some adjustments in the body but I have done it with the border knitted as well.


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## grannyfabulous4

I haven't dropped off the earth. Busy, busy week-end, then exhausted on Monday and kept making mistakes, but got going yesterday and have about 2 more inches to the underarm. Hope to get to the neck part by tonight, so I can start fresh there tomorrow. Wishing I had done the sideways since I have a really pear shape!!!! Next time.

We will discuss that in the next workshop. I am deciding whether we will open a new 'conversation' or whether we will add it to this workshop. I will let everyone know in time to start.


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## KnitnNat

I'm at the top of the front yoke. Did I miss when and how to start the neck opening? This will be my first. I'll go back and read.


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## mildredL2

Hi Shirley,
My progress so far,-- soon will need to decide about when to start the neck opening. I have read your explanation a couple of times, but will review again, I find that really helps. 
This is an exciting new set of skills to learn, thank you so much for all the help!


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## Designer1234

I delivered the sweater I just finished to a friend of mine in the Senior's group this morning. It really looked good on her and she was very pleased. She wouldn't take it off. I am always pleased when my 
'Sweater for a stranger' is finished and the recipient is happy. 

She isn't really a stranger, She is in my group and loved the colors and the pattern. I hope you like it. If you This was a top down cardigan.


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## randado

Designer1234, I've never joined one of your KAL's or classes and I've just looked these over. So informative an helpful. I really need to join one. Thanks for sharing your talents and ideas 

 You are very welcome! thanks for joining in and also for taking the time to read our workshop.

We have one each month coming up! so check this section and keep your eye open for announcements on the main forum as well


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## MarilynKnits

Lovely sweater on a lovely lady. The colors you used are so flattering to her.



Designer1234 said:


> I delivered the sweater I just finished to a friend of mine in the Senior's group this morning. It really looked good on her and she was very pleased. She wouldn't take it off. I am always pleased when my
> 'Sweater for a stranger' is finished and the recipient is happy.
> 
> She isn't really a stranger, She is in my group and loved the colors and the pattern. I hope you like it. This was a top down cardigan.


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## Treenya

Help Shirley,

How do I determine how big, as in how many stitches, I need for the front neck opening. I was thinking I would do all in the front but don't know how many stitches for opening.

Thanks,
Tina


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## run4fittness

Designer1234 said:


> I delivered the sweater I just finished to a friend of mine in the Senior's group this morning. It really looked good on her and she was very pleased. She wouldn't take it off. I am always pleased when my
> 'Sweater for a stranger' is finished and the recipient is happy.
> 
> She isn't really a stranger, She is in my group and loved the colors and the pattern. I hope you like it. If you This was a top down cardigan.


Beautiful job on this one! Like you you did the button band. Interesting concept.

Thankyou! --

 I'll tell you a secret! I made the neck too small for the lady I was making the sweater for so I changed the neck line and then added the band so that the neck line separated. I thought at first I would have to pull it out but then it worked! new neckline! grin. She liked it best of the whole sweater! that is what I am trying to get across!* don't rip out unless you absolutely can't figure out a way to make it work!* be open to changing your mind in mid stream, Just remember to write it down as I will use this neckline again!


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## tami_ohio

This is where I am at with my side to side front. And my neon pink socks! The yarn for them was purchased in Seattle, Washington when we flew out to go up to Vancouver to catch VIA Rail to Toronto in 2014. I started them on the train after I finished the pair of St. Patrick's Day green socks for DH. I finished his at 11:55 on March 16! Cut it a little close, but they were done in time!

First of all it is looking good!


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## Designer1234

I Just searched how to knit different necks for a pullover

I liked this link so give it a look

http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2015/01/knitted-necklines-and-collars/

You have to buy the patterns, but It does show you the shapes. I will try to find a more helpful link to other neck questions. I am not suggesting you buy them but you can see what kind of pattern appeals to you. Below are some free sweater patterns with different looks.

here are some free long sleeve knitting patterns with the different necks.

http://www.free-knitpatterns.com/list.html?cat_id=379

The men's pattern round neck (crew neck ) looks like a good one and there is a V neck sweater and they are in worsted.


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## mildredL2

Designer1234 said:


> I delivered the sweater I just finished to a friend of mine in the Senior's group this morning. It really looked good on her and she was very pleased. She wouldn't take it off. I am always pleased when my
> 'Sweater for a stranger' is finished and the recipient is happy.
> 
> She isn't really a stranger, She is in my group and loved the colors and the pattern. I hope you like it. If you This was a top down cardigan.


Oh my, this is a lovely sweater! Beautiful colors and interesting textures and stitches, just love it!


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## Jacklou

Shirley, am I correct in that when you knit the front sideways, you also knit the back sideways?

Jackie

 I have done it both ways. I would do it sideways if it is started that way. Just make sure you all count your stitches every once in awhile as you want the sides straight.


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## Designer1234

GOOD MORNING everyone! It is 8 am here and I hope you are all doing okay with your sweaters.

One thing I also do with these sweaters, is do the back up to the same length as the front, and THEN work on the neck. It is easier in some ways as that way you can take your back up as high as you wish for the shoulders and 'build' the front of the neck to work with the back. That way you can adjust your front neck and make sure you have lots of room for your bust and your body, by attaching it loosely (shoulders to shoulders) with a different yarn and that way you can try it on and also increase the height of the shoulders to make sure it fits comfortably over the top part of your body.

I am at the point where I know what will fit but I would recommend doing this for your first few sweaters.

#1 knit front to where you think you will put the bottom of your neck (if you choose to do it this way} put on a yarn (rather than holders as you want to be able to move it and work with it or even leave it on your needle and put it aside until the back is finished.

#2 knit the back right up to where you think you want your shoulder seam. make sure you are matching the back to the front and carry it on up past where you stopped the front. Then knit your front neck up to the height you wish. baste the unfinished front and back shoulders together and try it on. Another way I do it is knit the back up to the length you think you want (shoulders to bottom band) and cast off but don't work ends in.

Then knit the front and do the neck up to the depth you wish and baste them to the shoulders. This works well, although it is more work but usually you can fit your neck and get it the right size more easily.

I have struggled with my necks on all my sweaters, and finally have figured a way that works for me to get a decent fit.

However, you all have different shapes, so the easiest thing you can do is find a sweater or t shirt that fits you well around the neck and copy it on paper, then copy it by doing one side of the neck up to where you meet the back top and then a mirror image of the other side.

You baste the front shoulders and back shoulders together and see how it fits in comparison to the side of neck, the shape of neck etc. 
DON'T MAKE IT TOO LARGE. That was my problem I was worried about it being too tight. Remember most of the shoulder will drop down over the your shoulder, so it all depends on your shape and width of shoulders.

start from the center and work out and up. (on the front).

For new knitters go to ravelry if you are having difficulty and look for a drop sleeve sweater pattern with the neck you like. knit the neck as in the pattern using your size. see how close that fits your neck size and write down any changes if there were any. Then copy the neck pattern on to your notebook. It will give you the idea of how to actually knit a neck


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## Designer1234

If any of you have any problem I am ready to help in any way I can. It is 8.30 am here in Vancouver Island and much later for most of you. I will be going out for an appointment at l pm our time so will be here for the next few hours.

Dont' be afraid to ask questions and all of you are welcome to help as well. We have so many different people with different shapes so everyone is welcome to give their ideas as to what they do for their sweaternecks - *I really would appreciate it if you are experienced sweater knitters and have some tips or suggestions or links for the necks*. 
Once you get your neck done the rest is a piece of cake!! grin!


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## Designer1234

I just did a quick sketch to show you how you can use both front and back to do your neck. It might be easier.

Excuse the scribble but I want it to get on here right away as I know some of you are that place on your sweaters.


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## mildredL2

Designer1234 said:


> I just did a quick sketch to show you how you can use both front and back to do your neck. It might be easier.
> 
> Excuse the scribble but I want it to get on here right away as I know some of you are that place on your sweaters.


Thank you for this, I will try it, and will start the back now, then baste to front.
------------------------
_you baste the shoulders once you have done the neck on the front and then baste the shoulders and possibly under the arms so you can tell whether the neck fits[/b]So knit your back - to where your want your back neck (higher than where you stopped knitting the front) then knit the front neck and carry it up to the back- then join the front and back shoulders, making sure the outside edges match.

It is also helpful to pin or put a stitch holding the back and front together under the arm. (this is temporary). You will try it on over your head and see that the neck looks centered and not too big until it is what you want and then sew the shoulders together and remove the join under the arm so that you can lie the whole thing flat

We will cover adding the sleeves tomorrow. Just work until you reach this spot. (it doesn't matter whether that is today or 3 or 4 days or a week from now.) We are not in a rush. No one is under any pressure. I will be here until our sweaters are done. We can then decide if there are enough people who want to make a side knit sweater (either a cardigan or a pullover) we will decide that when the majority of you are finished. I will always be available to help out until your sweater is finished. Once we get the neck done it is really easy so hang in there. Correct it if you don't like it. Check ravelry for a free pattern with the neck you like. try it only be careful that the stitches per inch are nearly the same. you want the width of the crew neck to be the width across the back to each side of the neck. Then decrease until you are straight down from the outside of that line and knit straight up.

You will also use a wider and not as deep neckline if you want a more casual, more open neck like the one in the original sweater. We are at the place where you will have to decide_


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## Designer1234

I have a friend from Australia who crochets her own designs and I have asked her to post some of her pictures of her work. I am so impressed. She is very interested in the 40's, 50's and 60's designs and she looks at a picture of an outfit she likes and then crochets one.

I have asked her to post some pictures of her work so that you all can see that what we are talking about here, as far as knitting goes, can be done with Crochet.

I am hoping she will answer some questions from those of you who crochet , but even if she prefers not to , I have asked her to post some pictures of her crochet work. Her name is Wombat and she does the most wonderful crochet clothes just from looking at pictures from that time.

WOMBAT. when you are reading this, Welcome and I hope you will drop by and talk a bit about crocheting. She is following this workshop and she is a friend. Shirley


----------



## Wombatnomore

Designer1234 said:


> I have a friend from Australia who crochets her own designs and I have asked her to post some of her pictures of her work. I am so impressed. She is very interested in the 40's, 50's and 60's designs and she looks at a picture of an outfit she likes and then crochets one.
> 
> I have asked her to post some pictures of her work so that you all can see that what we are talking about here, as far as knitting goes, can be done with Crochet.
> 
> I am hoping she will answer some questions from those of you who crochet , but even if she prefers not to , I have asked her to post some pictures of her crochet work. Her name is Wombat and she does the most wonderful crochet clothes just from looking at pictures from that time.
> 
> WOMBAT. when you are reading this, Welcome and I hope you will drop by and talk a bit about crocheting. She is following this workshop and she is a friend. Shirley


Hi Shirley and Hi to the inspirational artistes on this thread!

Kind of you to consider me for this Shirley. While I haven't started making the dishcloth cotton sweater yet, I intend to do so as soon as I finish other projects. I've been cutting and pasting all of the tid bits on the thread to a file as a back up and am looking forward to starting.

I've made a few things off the top of my head in crochet as opposed to knitting; one is a sweater/top and the other is a sweater top with skirt.

I'm not as technically gifted as Shirley so the sizing of them was fairly ad hoc. I use the foundation crochet row as the measurement for the width of the garment according to my own measurement which results in a size 12 - 14 Australian. The length of the garments are basically where I want them to end!

Both of the tops were crocheted in triple crochet from memory and the skirt in single crochet. I was actually able to sell them!

Thanks so much for joining in this workshop. Your work is outstanding and as I am a former crocheter I wish we had met a long time ago. A shoulder accident has very seriously limited my crochet abilities so I am really interested in what 
you are doing. I think the information on this thread can easily be changed to the same methods for crocheting.

I love the shape of your sleeves - Ladies this sleeve would not be difficult to do if you do it carefully. Wombat do you remember how much increase there was to the bottom of the sleeve from the elbow? I love the look.

I especially like the green suit. I would never be able to wear it but someone with your shape and slender and tall, would look gorgeous in it. That is what is so important about this workshop - you must do what suits your body, or the person who you are making the article for! .

ps. you recently posted a dress that flared at the bottom in a darker color. Do you have that picture handy? I loved it.

I have been a follower of your work since the first time I saw a crochet project you did.

_So ladies, keep this in mind if you crochet - you can use exactly the same information for both types of yarn work. You just have to take into consideration the differences in the stitch sizes and the different finished appearance of each part of the work_

Do any of you have any questions ? I would like Wombat to join in and hopefully post more pictures of her beautiful crochet work. We are on the same page and I know that in the future, after you finish this class and continue designing that you will try crochet if you crochet as well as knit. It opens another door and all you have todo is walk through it!!


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## KnitnNat

Wombatnomore, Thanks for joining us and sharing those beautiful projects. I do crochet and see that a lot of time and expertise went into these.
I am going to knit my back now, as Shirley says, Then maybe I'll be better able to do the neck. meggie

PS Snowing here! Good for knitting!


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## Designer1234

LUVCRAFTS said:


> I am knitting sideways all in one color but using a different pattern for the t. I finished iknitting across and did a bind off. Am now up to the yoke. How do I attach the yoke ?Do I pick up stitches across the top for the yoke and just continue knitting until I get to the neck? Confused.
> Thanks sooo much for all your help.


We did cover that. You might want to go back and find it as I believe I names the section THE YOKE. You pick up stitches pick up 3 miss one, pick up 3 miss one across the side (which is now the top. Once you have done that, make sure it lies nice and flat. I always (or usually) put a 4 row pattern across just to make the join nice and tidy. Go back and look at my blue long sweater (tunic) and the other sweaters I show and you will see what I mean. Good luck.

CHECK OUT PAGE l0 of the workshop

- there is a lot about the yoke under that heading


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## LUVCRAFTS

So sorry you had to repeat it. You've been super helpful & I really appreciate it.

 no problem at all. There is a lot, and I realize it ,of information on this thread.

I would suggest that even though you are all getting past the first information posts now that you have passed or are just doing certain parts  of the yoke and neck, you read the whole workshop again. Take it slowly. It will make a lot more sense now that you are all up at the neckline or nearly finished both front and back. There is an awful lot of information to try to understand, and I appreciate how much effort it is to do something so foreign to what you are used to. I applaud you for just hanging in there. I just hope none of you feel it hasn't been worthwhile. It is a huge undertaking especially when it has taken me a lot of years to learn about just how I can knit for my own shape. It will come if you want it to.

If nothing else it will show you how to understand your shape. We will spend some time discussing how we can ADD OR REDUCE STITCHES FOR PART OF THE BODY. at least how I do it. There is always information on the internet and don't be afraid to use it. I would not be able to make my sweaters if I hadn't used the information there, often.

I also ask advice on main. So don't be afraid to investigate!!


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## tami_ohio

tami_ohio said:


> This is where I am at with my side to side front. And my neon pink socks! The yarn for them was purchased in Seattle, Washington when we flew out to go up to Vancouver to catch VIA Rail to Toronto in 2014. I started them on the train after I finished the pair of St. Patrick's Day green socks for DH. I finished his at 11:55 on March 16! Cut it a little close, but they were done in time!
> 
> First of all it is looking good!
> 
> Did you enjoy the trip from Vancouver? I have heard it is a lovely train ride. I went from calgary to Toronto in l955 on the to meet my husband and we took the bus up to Barrie where we were married. We had only known each other 3 days and he had to go back to Camp Borden, so I was one nervous lady the closer I got to Toronto.  We had a 3 day waiting period and were married so 6 days and 2 letters a day for 3 months and I was a married woman!! That was 60 years ago and we are still together and our feelings never changed. He is the reason I can do my thing. He backs me in every way possible. I loved that trip although I was a nervous wreck by the time I got there.


We loved it! We went then because they have started revamping the berths in the sleeping cars, and the lounge car. We wanted to see and experience the old ones that we saw in the old movies, like Laurel and Hardy and The Three Stooges.

Love at first letter/sight?! Sometimes those are the best. I met my DH in high school and we went steady for 8 years and 3 days before we were married. Three days after my birthday. A little hard to forget the date that way, but not planned that way!

I have about 4 more inches to go before I finish the front bottom. I am hoping that I have not added too many stitches when I put the garter stitch border at the edge of the white, but we will see. If nothing else, when it is finished, I can sew the sides up a little and serge the seem. Sort of like a steek.


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## tami_ohio

Wombatnomore said:


> Hi Shirley and Hi to the inspirational artistes on this thread!
> 
> Kind of you to consider me for this Shirley. While I haven't started making the dishcloth cotton sweater yet, I intend to do so as soon as I finish other projects. I've been cutting and pasting all of the tid bits on the thread to a file as a back up and am looking forward to starting.
> 
> I've made a few things off the top of my head in crochet as opposed to knitting; one is a sweater/top and the other is a sweater top with skirt.
> 
> I'm not as technically gifted as Shirley so the sizing of them was fairly ad hoc. I use the foundation crochet row as the measurement for the width of the garment according to my own measurement which results in a size 12 - 14 Australian. The length of the garments are basically where I want them to end!
> 
> Both of the tops were crocheted in triple crochet from memory and the skirt in single crochet. I was actually able to sell them!
> 
> Thanks so much for joining in this workshop. Your work is outstanding and as I am a former crocheter I wish we had met a long time ago. A shoulder accident has very seriously limited my crochet abilities so I am really interested in what
> you are doing. I think the information on this thread can easily be changed to the same methods for crocheting.
> 
> I love the shape of your sleeves - Ladies this sleeve would not be difficult to do if you do it carefully. Wombat do you remember how much increase there was to the bottom of the sleeve from the elbow? I love the look.
> 
> I especially like the green suit. I would never be able to wear it but someone with your shape and slender and tall, would look gorgeous in it. That is what is so important about this workshop - you must do what suits your body, or the person who you are making the article for! .
> 
> ps. you recently posted a dress that flared at the bottom in a darker color. Do you have that picture handy? I loved it.
> 
> I have been a follower of your work since the first time I saw a crochet project you did.
> 
> _So ladies, keep this in mind if you crochet - you can use exactly the same information for both types of yarn work. You just have to take into consideration the differences in the stitch sizes and the different finished appearance of each part of the work_
> 
> Do any of you have any questions ? I would like Wombat to join in and hopefully post more pictures of her beautiful crochet work. We are on the same page and I know that in the future, after you finish this class and continue designing that you will try crochet if you crochet as well as knit. It opens another door and all you have todo is walk through it!!


Beautiful work, Wombatnomore! Welcome! I learned to crochet before I can remember. I have been knitting for about 14 years.


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## Wombatnomore

KnitnNat said:


> Wombatnomore, Thanks for joining us and sharing those beautiful projects. I do crochet and see that a lot of time and expertise went into these.
> I am going to knit my back now, as Shirley says, Then maybe I'll be better able to do the neck. meggie
> 
> PS Snowing here! Good for knitting!


Thank you KnitnNan!


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## Wombatnomore

tami_ohio said:


> Beautiful work, Wombatnomore! Welcome! I learned to crochet before I can remember. I have been knitting for about 14 years.


Thank you tami!


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## Nicholas81

Hi - am doing the bottom up but after getting the lower band (solid of k2, p2) I had to set it aside due to migraine and neck issues - definitely want to continue making this sweater and am so GRATEFUL for all your wonderful info. Hoping to get back to it tomorrow after another chiropractic visit. Don't leave me - will definitely have questions when I get to the underarm. Thanks again - Shelia


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## mildredL2

Wombatnomore, thank you so much for sharing photos of your gorgeous crocheted outfits, they are stunning! An inspiration to learn more about crocheting,-- so far I do only the basic stitches and simple projects that don't have to fit.


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## aquaciser1

I will apologize to start with in case you have answered this and I just haven't seen it. Do we knit the back straight across till we reach the bottom of our neck? Thanks in advance for your answer. Also thank you so much for doing this workshop.

Apologies offered! I must have missed our question. Yes you knit straight up until you reach the bottom of your neck (this is for the front) for the back you knit straight up to where you want your shoulder seam. I usually leave live stitches on the back shoulders in case I want to adjust once I get the front done. Hope this helps, Shirley


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## Nonalehm

Thank you for your suggestions/directions yesterday. I had completed my front T and neck but am not sure that it is correct or what I want for a neck so I started the back and am now about have way with it. I will complete back and then readdress the front and neck using your suggestions. I did use a sweater pattern I like for the neck guide. I am learning so much and am enjoying the process. This is my front so far.
----------------------------------------
your neck looks good. If you find it is quite big ( and it doesn't look like it, you can crochet or knit a wider neck band reducing the size of the needle as you finish it. I have had problems with my neck over the years and that is what I found I could do without changing the size. It looks great.

Now you knit right up to the shoulder on the back and then baste the front shoulders to the back shoulders. *It is important that you make sure the OUTSIDE edge of the shoulders are matching, as that is where your sleeves will start -- see my drawing of the sweater with the sleeves lying flat.*. then I would join the sweater under the arms where it fits the best even if it is above the underarm. then try it on just join it so you know how much room you will have in the arm space. YOu can then adjust the height of the shoulders if you need to and add an inch or two to the back top . or if it is too big, you can reduce the # of rows. you can also adjust where it meets under the arms. Make sure you leave enough space in the arm hole that it will be comfortable. Don't do it much bigger than you need as remember the top of the sleeve is already knitted in the drop shoulder.

I hope this makes sense. GOOD JOB!!

we will talk about the sleeves tomorrow.


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## Wombatnomore

mildredL2 said:


> Wombatnomore, thank you so much for sharing photos of your gorgeous crocheted outfits, they are stunning! An inspiration to learn more about crocheting,-- so far I do only the basic stitches and simple projects that don't have to fit.


You are most welcomed and thank you for your kind compliment.

While I was originally taught crochet by a cousin as a child, I didn't focus on it until I was into my early 20's. Then there was a considerable period of time I didn't do any craft at all. I picked it up again about 3 years ago and I've found the internet to be a wonderful resource for knitting and crochet instruction.

But more than that, this workshop is the way to go in terms of making crocheted garments to fit. Shirley's methods are great and if you refer to them when making a crocheted garment, you won't go wrong.

Shirley has asked me to show a crocheted dress that flared out at the bottom and I think this one is it. I placed it on the floor because the dress form did nothing to enhance it's shape. The pattern called for a very fine yarn but I chose to use an 8ply woollen yarn and using a 4.0mm hook so that it can be worn in the cooler months. By doing this, I didn't have to enlarge the pattern to fit!

Wombat. I hope you don't mind that I changed the color a bit so that we could see the stitches? I know that isn't the color of the dress but I know I and other crocheters (and knitters, I am sure) would like to see it up close so we can get an idea of the stitch design. I apologize as I am not criticizing the picture, I just want to be able to see the stitching. That is the one I was talking about and I appreciate you posting it!!

I LOVE IT! Do you agree, ladies???


----------



## tami_ohio

Wombatnomore said:


> You are most welcomed and thank you for your kind compliment.
> 
> While I was originally taught crochet by a cousin as a child, I didn't focus on it until I was into my early 20's. Then there was a considerable period of time I didn't do any craft at all. I picked it up again about 3 years ago and I've found the internet to be a wonderful resource for knitting and crochet instruction.
> 
> But more than that, this workshop is the way to go in terms of making crocheted garments to fit. Shirley's methods are great and if you refer to them when making a crocheted garment, you won't go wrong.
> 
> Shirley has asked me to show a crocheted dress that flared out at the bottom and I think this one is it. I placed it on the floor because the dress form did nothing to enhance it's shape. The pattern called for a very fine yarn but I chose to use an 8ply woollen yarn and using a 4.0mm hook so that it can be worn in the cooler months. By doing this, I didn't have to enlarge the pattern to fit!
> 
> Wombat. I hope you don't mind that I changed the color a bit so that we could see the stitches? I know that isn't the color of the dress but I know I and other crocheters (and knitters, I am sure) would like to see it up close so we can get an idea of the stitch design. I apologize as I am not criticizing the picture, I just want to be able to see the stitching. That is the one I was talking about and I appreciate you posting it!!
> 
> I LOVE IT! Do you agree, ladies???


Wonderful!


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## Designer1234

Marilyn Knits found a couple more great links and I think you will find both of them very useful. Thankyou very much once again Marilyn

http://www.jaydainstitches.com/tools.php


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## mildredL2

Wombatnomore wrote:
Shirley has asked me to show a crocheted dress that flared out at the bottom and I think this one is it. I placed it on the floor because the dress form did nothing to enhance it's shape. The pattern called for a very fine yarn but I chose to use an 8ply woollen yarn and using a 4.0mm hook so that it can be worn in the cooler months. By doing this, I didn't have to enlarge the pattern to fit!

Wombat. I hope you don't mind that I changed the color a bit so that we could see the stitches? I know that isn't the color of the dress but I know I and other crocheters (and knitters, I am sure) would like to see it up close so we can get an idea of the stitch design. I apologize as I am not criticizing the picture, I just want to be able to see the stitching. That is the one I was talking about and I appreciate you posting it!!

I LOVE IT! Do you agree, ladies???[/quote]

I do agree, love the stitch design and flared skirt, --beautiful dress!


----------



## tami_ohio

Designer1234 said:


> I started a top down cardigan last night and have had a chance to do quite a bit of knitting . here it is.
> 
> I have this pretty moss green acrylic blend yarn that was gifted to me and I thought the little bit of pink and darker green would give it a zip.
> 
> I am nearly at the place where I can put the sleeve stitches on holders and carry on knitting the fronts and back together. I am also nearly at the point where I will increase my stitches under the arm so increase the size below my waist. I have a couple of ideas I am going to try and will let you know what I decide to do with the skirt part of the sweater. I will not put any more color in the body but will use a simple design for the skirt part. then will decide whether to put the same pattern (with the pink and darker green strips for the lower part of the sleeves. Not sure what kind of sleeves though. I hope you will find this process interesting. Shirley


That is going to be very pretty!

I have about another inch to go on my front side to side. I am going to a new to me knitting group this morning and will hopefully get to meet another KPer! I will be taking this with me to work on. Time to get moving so I am not late. See you all later!


----------



## PaKnitter

I am struggling with this workshop even though I have read the many posts here a thousand times because I haven't knitted a sweater since the 70's for myself. 
Everything sort of makes sense but...
Looking at photos and pulling out a well fitting sweater just doesn't work for me because I need to know why.
I found this... http://www.ravelry.com/projects/estherkate/how-to---hand-knit---necklines 
and bingo...it clicked.
I am your worse student.

Linda
 Linda! I have been looking for a link like this for ages and I thank you!! Ladies. save this link and use it every time you do a neck!! I struggled with my neck shapes and sizes for years. This information is excellent. I would put it on my desk top and I know I will use it too. I don't have a 
'worse' student. I am well aware how confusing this whole thing is for those who have never done anything like it in the past. However, I applaud you for hanging in there and looking for information that will help you to accomplish your neck. Please don't give up. It is a frustrating, hard to do method, BUT if you make yourself try it and do it, you will open doors for yourself in your knitting that are soo important and will give you confidence. It is not a failure, to find something difficult. If any decides they just don't want to do this, that is perfectly okay. However I think that it will help all of you to CHANGE a written pattern even in small ways, which will help you get a better fit.

I do hope you will continue on with me-(all of you) doing the side knit bottoms, and even the top down caridgans which I am working on right now. It is much faster and in some ways easier to do top down both cardigans and pullovers. With this neck information it will make a huge difference.

I thank you so much for the information we are receiving and I see that you are 'getting it'.

I have nearly given up for years because I have such a time with fitting my neck and then the top which is no problem but then the changing to a whole size larger is where the challenge has come in. I love what I do, and I hope you will get past the confusion and uncertainty and just read the info again and again, and READ THIS LINK FROM LINDA.

I will use it over and over.

I have it on my desk top - I just saved the whole thing.


----------



## Caesarteaser

PaKnitter said:


> I am struggling with this workshop even though I have read the many posts here a thousand times because I haven't knitted a sweater since the 70's for myself.
> Everything sort of makes sense but...
> Looking at photos and pulling out a well fitting sweater just doesn't work for me because I need to know why.
> I found this... http://www.ravelry.com/projects/estherkate/how-to---hand-knit---necklines
> and bingo...it clicked.
> I am your worse student.
> 
> Thanks for the great link. I sort of knew what I was going to do but this just solidified my numbers. Thanks.
> 
> Linda


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## tami_ohio

tami_ohio said:


> That is going to be very pretty!
> 
> I have about another inch to go on my front side to side. I am going to a new to me knitting group this morning and will hopefully get to meet another KPer! I will be taking this with me to work on. Time to get moving so I am not late. See you all later!


Front is finished! And I have met knitpick1 from knitting paradise!


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## Caesarteaser

I've put my sweater front on hold and am working on the back so I can better gauge the neck and am thinking that some of the upper T color should go over the shoulders and down the back. Should it mirror the front?

I didn't carry the wide strip down the back. I just did the exact same size across the top as in the front. I rarely do the backs the same as the front. However you can do it whichever way you think you will like it. We all can choose on these sweaters and others you will make.

I do think doing the back right up to the top so that you can bring the sides of the neck up to your shoulders as explained previously.


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## carolky

Shirley, Yesterday I was happy as a clam and was going to post a pic of my work today. Alas, last night I noticed a really complicated mistake in my work so frogged back to the ribbing. So, I basically start over today. Otherwise, it is going well. I'm doing bottom up in white, colorway for center is called Ahoy. I'm doing the center in "right slanting Turkish rib". I had done all the swatching, measuring and calculating with no trouble. Maybe by tomorrow afternoon I will have finished enough to post a picture. Just wanted to cry on your shoulder a little.

 I am sorry that happened. I hope you are starting over and that you will have no further problems. I have had that happen to me and it is frustrating. Just don't let it stop you from doing this sweater. i see from your post that you have carried on- post a picture and hang in there!


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## Dintoo

Hi Shirley. Thanks so much to you and everyone for all the great information and links to so many things, especially the link to the different necks. My sweater was going great until I discovered the front is an inch too big. I'm sure I calculated my stitches correctly, but my tension is different than on my swatch. Other than dishcloths, I've never knit with cotton yarn before, so this may be the problem. Because I'm a slow knitter and don't have that much time for knitting, I'm not undoing it. Guess I'll have to find someone with larger hips to give it to--or I could eat more! Definitely NOT!

 I would consider finishing it as you can adjust a lot by doing the neck and sleeves. An inch isn't a huge amount and you could do a few less stitches on each side of the back if it is really worrying you, as I have done that.

If it was 3 or 4 inches too big on the front I would worry but this is a loose sweater so it might not be that much of a problem.

How about taking a half an inch off of each side,of the back, if it seems really big, or I would consider leaving it the same. A two inch ease isn't that much around the whole body depending on how much ease you calculated. I would go ahead with it and maybe adjust the back width by a small amount. It isn't a sweater that has to be exact. You could also knit an addition to the band around the bottom border once the sweater is finished and tighten up the band a bit. I have done that too and only I knew I did.

As you can see, you sometimes have to go with the flow and make adjustments at the last minute. If it was a huge difference you might have more of a problem. My stitches per inch aren't always exactly l00% on a sweater where I have put a lot of texture. I never wear things tight so I do think it will likely be okay and this isn't a fitted sweater


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## run4fittness

Designer1234 said:


> Marilyn Knits found a couple more great links and I think you will find both of them very useful. Thankyou very much once again Marilyn
> 
> http://www.jaydainstitches.com/tools.php
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great links, thank you.


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## run4fittness

Designer1234 said:


> I started a top down cardigan last night and have had a chance to do quite a bit of knitting . here it is.
> 
> I have this pretty moss green acrylic blend yarn that was gifted to me and I thought the little bit of pink and darker green would give it a zip.
> 
> I am nearly at the place where I can put the sleeve stitches on holders and carry on knitting the fronts and back together. I am also nearly at the point where I will increase my stitches under the arm so increase the size below my waist. I have a couple of ideas I am going to try and will let you know what I decide to do with the skirt part of the sweater. I will not put any more color in the body but will use a simple design for the skirt part. then will decide whether to put the same pattern (with the pink and darker green strips for the lower part of the sleeves. Not sure what kind of sleeves though. I hope you will find this process interesting. Shirley


Lovely colors. I see you are used the different neck/band again. I really like the way that looks. Thanks, it is the first time I have tried that l x l rib and I like it a lot. I try never to make two sweaters the same. How are you doing? I hope everyone is managing to figure out the book I have written! grin.


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## MargegraM

Hi Shirley,

After having problems with the color yarn swap for the middle panel of the "T" I have frogged it back three times to the ribbing and I am doing it now in all white. I think I will do some embroidery on that center panel as I liked the examples you showed of a couple of your earlier sweaters. I will need to practice changing yarn another day as I'm so far behind with my first sweater ever,I want to get closer to the middle of the pack. I may start a side knit version as that looks like it will be easier and my colored yarn changes will be at the edges, not front center!

I'm reading and learning so much with this workshop I just wish my knitting skills were better..but this is what it's all about!

Thanks Shirley..I'll get there eventually.

 Knitting skills take time, and practice, but mostly it takes the will to do the things you want to. I am glad you aren't giving up. I think the sweater with the white or cream center panel is one of the nicest ways you can 
make your own design. I wore those two sweaters and I doubt I ever put one on without someone remarking on it.

Remember - take one step at a time, and just keep on knitting, but just because you are a new knitter doesn't mean you have to be held down to always using a pattern.
I think in some ways it is easier to knit in a way that makes sense to you for your body than to have to try to change a written pattern by someone else. Don't any of you be afraid to try something new. Try not to be toooo precise. 
Don't misunderstand me though - there are things like lace that must be precise and we have done some projects in lace on our workshops that are absolutely breathtaking! So there are no rules, just use your own imagination and do what feels right for you. Don't restrict yourself and think there is only one way!

There isn't. I always get the urge to do the opposite of what someone says is the 'only right way'. It worked for me in quilting too.

I usually don't suggest people look at my other work, but I have a link under my posts that takes you to the 'other crafts' and shows my work. Everything I made there is 
my own. I don't think I have ever done something exactly as the rules say or as the picture shows. It is my life, and I want so much for others to get the joy out of trying it 'your way' rather than allow any one to tell you it is not the 'right way'. So I would invite you to check out my work there - and read my comments. I learn the technique and then do original things with it. So many of us have that ability but we have to take the first step.

I hope each and everyone of you get something worthwhile from this class.


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## run4fittness

Hi Shirley,

I have finished the front yoke and am about ⅔ through the back yoke. And then the sleeves. Still not sure if I am going back to the variegated blue, use the red like on the yokes, or another color entirely! The sky is the limit!

Already thinking about doing one with up and down stripes. Have a couple of ideas in mind thanks to your wonderful writing. Thank you!

I am so pleased you 'get it' and that you are going to carry on - I get so much pleasure out of it. Not everything works out perfectly but if a few or lots of doors have opened I am content with this class. I will look forward to seeing your colors. You hike therefore you know that nature has no color restrictions. I have to force myself not to use a lot of colors in one sweater. I have so many that now I am trying to calm my sweaters down. It is going to be okay , but quite ordinary, I think. You should take a look at our two conversations -- one Conversation about color and the other about texture, before you make another sweater with us.

the links are on an earlier page. do check it out. It shows how different people see color differently and different people choose different combinations. I led the discussion but found it absolutely fascinating. so when you have a few minutes read both of them. Then let me know what your reaction is. I am so glad you are letting me know that you are enjoying yourself so much.


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## leslee

Hi Shirley ,Just checking in with my my progress. I have finished front and back and sewn the shoulders together and knitted the neck band. I don`t suit a drop sleeve so I have made mine with a slightly set in sleeve . Next job is to pick-up and knit my sleevs down top .I plan on knitting with the green and the varigated yarn so that the colours match until almost the elbow when I will swap to all varigated yarn. Then see how it looks. :lol: 
I have been knitting nearly 60 years and this is the first time I have made a jumper/sweater with cotton. It won`t be my last , I love how it feels.

 WOW!!! It is fantastic. I think you are doing a wonderful job! That sweater is lovely! I am glad you feel this class has been worthwhile. I see you have used your own ideas to accomplish it and obviously it works beautifully.

Thanks for posting. I think your set in sleeves idea works really well and gets rid of some of the excess fabric. I wanted so much for you and others to turn this into your own sweater, and to use your knowledge to decide for yourselves how to change things to your own satisfaction. You have done that! I applaud you! I appreciate you posting this as you are the first nearly finished sweater so far

. I wonder how many others are at the stage you are.

PICTURES PLEASE LADIES! yeah! You are all making my day.


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## KnitnNat

Leslee's sweater is beautiful.
I have put the front on a holder with a lifeline in before I start the neck. I'm about up to the waist on the back, doing same as front.
I'm thinking of putting a little dart on each side of the back, as I'm sway backed, is this a bad idea? I could add the stitches back before the shoulders or not. meggie

 I don't see why you shouldn't try it. I think you definitely should do what you think might work. Another thing I do is I put ribbing under my arms to make my waist look a bit smaller than my hips. It is, but unless I want to look like a pear, I can't show it too much. However there is a disadvantage to that as it makes a lot of unnecessary bulk - so I am starting to reduce the length of the rows and make a more fitted sweater. I will post them in the future on pictures and I hope all of you will too.

Each of us has a shape to work with. Some are a perfect size but not many - so we adjust as much as we can to make ourselves look as good as we can in our clothes. You never know if something will work unless you try. I think the tucks might be just the thing.

There are so many ways you can make little adjustments that work for you. Some you might not have ever heard of.
Go for it!!


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## Designer1234

here are 3 threads I have posted with my work since 'other crafts' opened.

Just an aside. I had a bad fall and detatched the tendon in my shoulder so all I can do now is knit - I can't use a sewing machine and a lot of my projects were very messy to say the least. It just gives you an idea that if you have a passion, and you aren't afraid, as well as a life that allows it, you can do a lot of things you might never dreamed you can do. I have gotten back so much from starting the workshops and knitting my projects so one part of life leads to another so I don't worry about what I used to be able to do. I love doing what I am doing now.

All my work is self taught, although I did learn a lot of techniques when we were in Arizona at the same park and then I used the techniques to do my own thing. That is what you are learning to do here.

I hope you will look at my work, and reach to do things that speak to you and not be afraid - each of us can do things that will amaze us if we try.

my 'other crafts.

http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-214536-1.html

http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-256694-1.html

http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-389024-1.html


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## leslee

Ctown Nana said:


> Leslee---Your sweater is beautiful!! I love the colors. I am working on a side to side for my first attempt at this garment and have the back almost done. I then need to have some guidance from our wonderful teacher on how to do the sleeves.
> I love the look of your sweater and plan to make another starting at the bottom and working up. Shirley---I thought I might do a provisional cast on for the front and back of my next sweater. Do you think this would work out okay as I am not overly fond of picking up stitches? Thanks!


Thanks for the compliment Ctown Nana, I look forward to seeing everyone elses interpretation of Shirleys directions. Re the provisional cast on ,if you look at my sweater you will see that is what I have used as I hadn`t decided how the bottom would look. That will be the last part done. Cheers Leslee


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## AmberSparkles

Bless your heart, take care of that shoulder. I know that is very painful.


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## Ctown Nana

leslee said:


> Thanks for the compliment Ctown Nana, I look forward to seeing everyone elses interpretation of Shirleys directions. Re the provisional cast on ,if you look at my sweater you will see that is what I have used as I hadn`t decided how the bottom would look. That will be the last part done. Cheers Leslee


Leslee, I thought that you had done a provisional cast on and it seemed like such a wonderful idea. Thank you--it's amazing the terrific information shared on this great forum.
Shirley--Your other crafts are as incredible as your knitting--what gifts you have!! Take care of that shoulder.....


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## Designer1234

*SLEEVES*

There are two or three different ways you can do sleeves. For a long time I lay my sweater flat and added the sleeves that way. However, I took one 
(actually 2) workshops from darowil to learn to use a longer (40cm ) circular needle and I learned how to do the Magic loop technique.

It is a bit confusing to learn but I would recommend it to everyone . it is on the list of workshops below this workshop. I learned how to do that and then I made my first socks and learned to knit in the round. so it opened a whole new area of knitting for me.

I pick up (starting at the under arm stitches around the sleeve opening once I have joined the sides. For a long time I did the sleeves before sewing the side seams together. but with magic loop, I make sure my sleeve opening is not too large, (you can always carry up the join on the sides an inch or so, and I pick up the stitches, starting at the under arm and picking them up, adding 3 or 4 (no more for my shape) under the arm and knitting my sweaters doing all my increases at both sides of the underarm so that they are used in a circle. This is important. I like the look when only the pattern you put on the sleeves interrupts the shape of the sleeves. So all the increases on my sweaters are on both sides of where I joined the yarn in the under arm. You will need a marker there.

I am showing you some of the different sleeves I have done this past while since I started with the magic loop.


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## KnitnNat

Shirley, Thanks for sharing your "other Crafts".
Beautiful!! I will enjoy looking time and again.


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## Designer1234

*SLEEVES
THIS HAS BEEN EDITED*.
There are two or three different ways you can do sleeves.

#1 adding the sleeves before you join the sides by knitting them while just the shoulders are joined.

There are a few things you have to think about by doing it this way. Make sure that the size of the top of the sleeve gives you a bit of ease. You don't want it to be tight under the arm. I measure around my top arm and add some ease. I won't give you the exact amount as that will vary with each person. You then add the same number of stitches across the body starting under the arm see my diagram below. You can join it with a band across as an accent or do whatever kind of join you like. then knit it the shape shown in my diagram. reducing the sweater every l - l.5 inches down the sleeve. I did mine this way for years. I used to knit down the sleeve about 3/4 of the way and then put on holders as I like to adjust my sleeve length and do the cuff last.

You can also do other methods ( a couple of the ladies have done that here if you read back.

#2 - A lot of us will use circulars and personally I really like using magic loop as there are no seams to sew and the sleeves fit well.

sew up the side seams and make sure the opening for your arm is plenty wide - I always seem to make mine a bit too wide as I am thinking of adding width to my shoulders. Each of you will decide for yourselves but don't do them too tight.

Start picking up your stitches at the seam an at each side of the sleeve making sure you divide the stitches evenly between front and back, - make sure your increases are always under the arm and you must put a marker to make sure you don't go off track and end up with a spiral sleeve (ask me how I know!}

Use the same decreases as mentioned in #1. I put a removable marker each time I decrease and I don't measure I just decrease the sleeve so that it slowly decreases_ to about 4 or 5 inches above where you want to start your cuff_. I then put the live stitches on a holder and do the other sleeve..

Now try on your sweater- lift your arm and see where you will want your sleeve to start. I like a good wide cuff, as I usually do a fancy cuff . (aside)- I vary the texture on my sleeves. If there is a lot of activity on the bottom portion, I might do a very straightforward sleeve. If it is a one color sleeve I like to put some texture in, by doing stripes of either the same color or a color that works with the sweater.

See my pictures of sleeves which I posted previously.

You then pick carry on with the sleeve while you are finishing it, and keep close track of how you do the bottom part as far as ribbing, and cuff stitches. (use your notebook). then do the cuff - I usually use a 2 x 2 ribbing but I am doing a sweater (cardi) that I just did a 1x1 neck rib and I might try it on my cuffs. (I calculated my cuffs by the socks I have knitted for myself. I cast on 32 or 36 stitch (a multiple of 4) and knit the cuff so that it reaches easily down to the top of your hand. Voila!! your sweater is done once you have finished the other sleeve!
.


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## Designer1234

Designer1234 said:


> here are some pictures of some sleeves I have worked on over the years.


 you will note that I do different things over the shoulder to draw the eye to that part of my frame. I would not suggest you do the heavy joins for everyone. You will decide that for yourselves.

I always am aware that I want my top and shoulders to look wider than they are to balance my shape, and I find the strong lines where I join the shoulders to the yoke help give that appearance. I know that many of you have your own methods and I hope you will use whichever one you wish. This is the one that does work for me better than an even join where you don't see the seam. I also posted a picture of the shape of my sleeve - all the decreases are about 1" to 
l 1/4 " distance but that can vary depending on the length of the arm and how narrow you want the area around the cuff to be. I like a firm fairly snug cuff, and I like the rib stitch pattern I use as it gives the sweater a 'different' look. (by the way I use that same stitch for all my sock cuffs and my fingerless mitten cuffs. I have had so many people remark on them and you can take a stocking stitch fingerless mitten and dress it up with this cuff, either the same color or a different color.

I am trying to show you how my mind works! grin.


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## Designer1234

Even though this is a top down cardigan - I am showing it because I think it might be my favorite sweater.

I have made lots of sideways knitted sweaters with the narrow rows but decided I would try a top down.

I chose a basic color for collar, cuffs and bands. And started knitting. I then added the cream to the above. However, I am going to make another as I didn't do a very good job getting a good fit over the neck and bust. It looks okay, but I know now that I can do a better fitted top down cardigan and will make another one some time soon. I feel so good in it and I have been asked often to teach it in a class. The top was not adjusted for my shoulders and yoke very well, but it is still quite attractive and I think the colors over ride the poor collar and neck fit. I still wear it all the time and I call the collar that doesn't fit a 'design element' grin.

I actually love it.  You don't have to have a perfect fit, or a perfect sweater, you have to have a comfortable, nice looking sweater


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## mildredL2

Wow, Shirley, the scope of your artistic talents is positively jaw-dropping, thank you for sharing your other crafts!
I do appreciate the encouragement of your philosophical comments about freedom to change things, make them work, and create even more beautiful results from a situation that might have seemed like a problem.
Hope that you will decide to leave all these ideas in the workshop when it is archived. For me, these have been a big part of the learning process of this workshop, and opened a new aspect of knitting. A million thanks!


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## Kateydid

Hi Shirley
Just checking in to let you know I'm still with you. I've been reading, absorbing, calculating, knitting, checking out links and admiring everyone's work that they've posted. I'm learning a whole bunch of things and enjoying the whole process. I worked the front and put it on hold as I wasn't sure how high I wanted the yoke before starting the neck as I was nervous about it. Now I feel more confident with the information that has been posted. Here it is so far.

 I LOVE your color combination. that is going to be a sweater that is outstanding. The knitting looks pretty darned fine too! good job. Keep on going and don't worry, one step at a time!


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## MargegraM

Meanwhile in the kindergarten room... I finally found out how to do a clean vertical color change sans the unusual miss alined stitches and lumps occurring in my first attempts.

Sigh. I hate being dumb, so I try to not stay that way for long... So simple! just bring the new yarn under to the right and over the old yarn to do the change and knit as the pattern directs. Still having tangles when I change row directions. I'm going to try your three pails method which sounds great, First grade, here I come! Yay!

Thanks for your encouragement, I won't give up and seeing all your examples just whets the appetite!!!!!!!! I'm back to the bottom up T with color. The embroidery will be on a future sweater..or maybe I'll embroidery on the colored panel???? So many choices.....

I surely will be taking future workshops..This is great!

Thanks ,
Marge

 I apologize!! I missed answering your post. I thought I had answered everyone. I am so glad you are enjoying the process - I am glad you learned about using two colors together. It is very handy to know. I don't want you to feel rushed as we will keep this workshop open as long as there is a knitter who still wants to knit! I don't want anyone to feel pushed.

If you need any help just post again, I promise I won't miss you next time! You have graduated from the kindergarden room and I don't want you to give yourself a label. We all pick up the needles for the first time, we all learn at our own pace and hopefully we all enjoy the process. I think you are doing just fine. Just ask for help if you need it .That is what I am here for. Read the other posts as I have learned some new ideas myself! That is what is so much fun!'


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## Designer1234

It is so great to see that you are understanding what I am trying to say. Most of it is in the mindset- all of my work has been instinctive, looking to make things 'different' I rarely know with any of my projects, what I am going to end up with. My main plan is to start - then it will take care of itself if I let it. I don't think some of you will find that easy, but please keep at it until you find you have courage to look at your knitting differently.

I am not trying to tell anyone that ANY method is wrong. I am just trying to say that ALL ideas can be considered and tried. They won't all work, but some will, and when they do you will get a feeling like no other. I get so much joy from doing my own designs and other work. I have never taken lessons as I find them too restrictive. I have however learned techniques, (I took a class in our park to learn how to do stained glass, then I made my own patterns, I took a class how to hand build clay, and then I did my own thing. So many people in that park many years ago told me 'that can't work' It also sometimes in my early days, antagonized the teacher who taught it the 'right 
way. I went ahead any way. I understand that there is a certain way, and it is also one of the 'right ways', it just isn't the ONLY RIGHT WAY.

I will leave my thoughts here although I am sure others won't be as interested in them as those who are trying the project.

I do think you will never knit the same way completely again, unless you just can't be bothered doing the math, the calculations or take the trouble. Some of you will not ever do another project like I am teaching, but at least you know it is there. Some of you will incorporate what you learned in your knitting with patterns, adjusting things to fit your body better and even adding zip or texture or color to the pattern. Others will just go for it. All three are right, none are wrong. If I have changed your thinking I have accomplished what I wanted to accomplish.

I appreciate all the kind words and the requests to leave my thoughts in this workshop. On reading some of them I think I might have gone overboard, but if it works, and you learn, it is fine with me. I open myself up a lot in this type of class - but that is typical so I won't worry about it as long as it works.

You are all such a pleasure to teach and I love the surprises I am seeing right now and will during the next couple or three weeks.

I will open a topic on Pictures, A Parade of ORIGINAL SWEATERS FROM THE SWEATER WORKSHOP, which we do on all our workshops which show what the students have a accomplished on a particular class. They always boggle my mind. I think this one will open other eyes if when you post your pictures, tell them what you feel you gained by the class. I ask all the students to do that. It is what the workshop section is -- to teach new things to interest KP members. Sometimes it is overwhelming what has been accomplished and the new and wonderful classes people have taken.

Check out the list of Parades on this section and check out what the students have accomplished. Your new sweater will be there too! yeah!


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## Dintoo

Hi Shirley. Thanks for your recommendations regarding my sweater, which is an inch too big. I had thought I might be able to make the back a few stitches smaller, but wasn't sure. I'm not sure if I will make it smaller or leave it the same. Will decide later. I love all the sweaters I've seen posted so far, and the beautiful crocheting your friend from Australia did. What talented people!! I too hope you leave all your thoughts in the workshop when it's finished. It's very helpful. Now back to knitting! Jinny


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## MargegraM

Dintoo said:


> Hi Shirley. Thanks for your recommendations regarding my sweater, which is an inch too big. I had thought I might be able to make the back a few stitches smaller, but wasn't sure. I'm not sure if I will make it smaller or leave it the same. Will decide later. I love all the sweaters I've seen posted so far, and the beautiful crocheting your friend from Australia did. What talented people!! I too hope you leave all your thoughts in the workshop when it's finished. It's very helpful. Now back to knitting! Jinny


Shirley, would it be possible for anyone with this problem to go to their sewing machine or serger and take in the side seams or would the sky fall as this is certainly NOT knitting pc. I guess that it would affect the arm opening and sleeves in a negative way so maybe I answered my own question. :roll: I think it might be necessary to serge up over the join to the under arm and along the sleeve but I am not sure.

I know that some people use a serger for that exact problem. I never have because I don't have a serger. However I would go on main, (if no one answers here) and ask whether anyone could give you advice about reducing the fit of a straight up and down sweater by using a zigzag stitch or a serger. It would be something I would be interested in knowing too. I think it would be one of those things that everyone who knits (harder to do by crochet) .
Any one else have an idea about this?


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## KnitnNat

Shirley, what a talented person, and how wonderful of you to share. Please leave "How your mind works". I'll need it for the rest of my life. meggie


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## AKnitWit

Completed front. I chose a V neck. Not sure if I will be adding a band on neck as yet. Most likely depends on fit. This is my first garment and it is all new. Thanks Shirley for your clear instructions and patience.

  I was just reading all the posts and I looked at your sweater in progress once again. I really like your pattern process and the original way you put the different textures.

I think it is beautifully balanced, the colors work well together and it is going to be a wonderful sweater. I like the way you have done the yoke-

The whole idea of this workshop is for people to take my ideas and put their ideas in instead, as far as texture, color, sizing - everythng. You are doing that and your top is going to be outstanding. I hope if we do decide to do another sweater you will carry on with us. I hope everyone will do that as well. It will give you all a chance to branch out a bit and to make another one of a kind.
====================================

I have been thinking about carrying on and if we do you will have a choice of a top down sweater or a sideways sweater or a combination - or whatever your imagination comes up with. I am amazed at how you all are showing that you 'get it' - It is so great for me as I have worried about teaching this for a long time and kept putting it off.

For those who are not as quick, remember all of us are different. I don't care if it takes you two months - I do hope however, that you will keep on and finish this project . When you wear it it will remind you that you did this here, and that doors are now open that weren't open before for your knitting projects and pleasure.

This idea doesn't just work for sweaters, You can have a ball making your own scarfs, by trying out knitting them sideways and knitting unusual patterns or combinations of patterns. There are so many things to try and you should try them one project at a time.


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## AKnitWit

Beautiful. Love your colors and your stiching is much to be admired.



Kateydid said:


> Hi Shirley
> Just checking in to let you know I'm still with you. I've been reading, absorbing, calculating, knitting, checking out links and admiring everyone's work that they've posted. I'm learning a whole bunch of things and enjoying the whole process. I worked the front and put it on hold as I wasn't sure how high I wanted the yoke before starting the neck as I was nervous about it. Now I feel more confident with the information that has been posted. Here it is so far.
> 
> I LOVE your color combination. that is going to be a sweater that is outstanding. The knitting looks pretty darned fine too! good job. Keep on going and don't worry, one step at a time!


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## carolky

I want to post a picture of my work so far, but I'm not sure how. I have the pictures ready to post...what should I do?
Once I get them posted, I ask that somebody advise me if this is going to be a hot mess, or should I continue and hope for the best. I don't want to go further in case I should go back to the frog pond.
The problem is with the stitch pattern for the center panel. It is a leaning rib, but it appears it going to make the rest of the stitches look wonky.

 I think you have one option. Is there a stitch that you can do a section with the angle heading in the opposite direction? That would look good if you did the two different directions on the front band. I do think if it stays, you might find that it does look wonky. Does anyone have any experience with this stitch? does it stretch? these are things you should consider.

If there isn't a way to balance it, I think you might be better to rip it out unless someone else has a better idea. I hate to tell you that but you still are near the bottom and you have discovered the problem early. I think something that doesn't head off in another direction would work better.

I have had that happen numerous times. It means you will spend an extra evening knitting to where you are now but you will feel better about it.  One thing you could do, on thinking about it is put two or three rows of garter stitch across, and put another straight up pattern for another section the same height,, then 3 rows garter stitch and back to this stitch only make it fewer rows. and up the front. Then do the other straight up stitch across the top. It is just something you should think about and then decide. I alway look for an answer to a problem but it doesn't always work out. That is part of the process. So you decide, but you DON'T GIVE UP


----------



## Designer1234

KnitnNat said:


> Shirley, what a talented person, and how wonderful of you to share. Please leave "How your mind works". I'll need it for the rest of my life. meggie


How kind you all are!

I had a lot of misgivings about posting all those pictures on 'Other Crafts' because there are people on here who definitely would think I was blowing my own horn. However some of my friends on the knitting Tea Party thought I should, so I opened up and did. I haven't been sorry.

I don't want ever to be seen as someone 'who knows everything" or thinks she does. I am fortunate to have been married to a person who backed my weird ideas l00% and always thought everything I did was great. I never once was made to feel as if I was being foolish or arrogant. He gave me courage to try when others thought I was wrong, or crazy with my ideas.

I rarely sold my stuff or took orders as I wanted the freedom of choosing myself what I wanted to do and how I wanted to do things. I have been allowed the freedom to do what I felt I wanted to do. We all have our talents, I was able to use mine -Some never have the opportunity and I consider myself extremely fortunate.

Others are not so fortunate and that is very sad. Some are made to feel uncomfortable and some are ridiculed or put down. There are many other reasons too and it is called "LIFE" _But each of us has a kernel of talent we don't even know we have.I really really believe it. We must accept that and look for it and feed it and use it_. Many children are told by their parents that they aren't creative, sometimes in conversation with other adults they say something casual but the child hears it the rest of his or her life. So many of my students over the years have had the feeling of not being smart enough, or talented enough from something casually said by an adult. They believe it to be true unless something happens to show them it isn't the truth.

If you have always wanted to write -get a notebook and start to write. If you have always wanted to do something, try to do it. learn about it and try. Don't give up if you don't reach your goals quickly or if you don't manage to reach them at all at first. Just try again. * Don't let anyone put you down*. 
-------------


----------



## lpeni

Designer1234 said:


> We will talk about doing a side ways sweater as well as go over some information about knitting top downs during the next week.


👍 Thank you for sharing your different crafts. I love to try different things and my daughter thinks everything I do is wonderful. I'm in the process of doing the sideways sweater, but can't deside how I want the middle of the front, so I've taken a hiatus until I decide. 
Thanks so much for sharing all of your knowledge.


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## run4fittness

RUN4FITTNESS WROTE:* Here is what I have done so far. I am keeping it very simple for the first one. More to figure out gauge, etc., so when I do go "fancy" there won't be as much frogging*.

_I did the body part in the round. I was going back and forth for the back and hubby didn't like the way the variegated was looking. So, I went in the round. I cast on 161 stitches, knit the first and last together. Seven rows of 2 x 2 ribbing. Then straight stockinette_. 
---
At the yoke, I put 6 stitches for each underarm on waste yarn and then did the front yoke. I measured that I would need 11 inches from under the arm to top of shoulder for a smooth fit. 
---
At 5 1/2 inches I started the neck shaping. Again, I put the six center stitches on waste yarn, and then worked both sides at the same time. I decreases 10 times per side and then finished up straight. 
---
For the back yoke it is straight up and then did the three needle bind off for the shoulder. 
---
For the neck I had placed the back live stitches on a needle and then decreased every other stitch. On the neckline down to the center, I picked up two out of three stitches, the 6 across the center and then back up, again 2 out of 3 stitches. Then I did the 2 x 2 ribbing for 4 rows and bound off in pattern.
---
Next, I need to decide what type of sleeves. When I tried this on I was majorly surprised at how well it fit. I could almost just knit a few rows of ribbing around the sleeves and call it a vest!

Please feel free to comment on what I have done so far and how you would change it. Always open to suggestions.

Thanks for looking and now off to reread Shirley's posts to figure out which sleeve I like best! Thanks Shirley, you are the best!

 I am delighted with what you have done!! you have completely read all my thoughts and all my many posts and you have done such an outstanding job! I think I will highlight your post if you don't mind as it might help others who are struggling with parts of their sweaters. I thank you for giving us the details and I have learned some ideas from you. I am absolutely certain that you will continue to do your own thing from now on, so already this workshop is a success. I would love to see the finished sweater, on you. If you don't want your face to be shown, would you get someone to take a picture of your finished sweater once you complete it and try it on?? I believe your post will help others to carry on and I thank you so much. Over the years on these threads, I have come to think of you as a friend and I am really impressed that you have taken the trouble to tell us how you have done YOUR sweater to fit YOUR shape.

Thank you so much - please consider putting on a picture when you first wear it. You will feel so good every time you wear it as you know YOU DID IT. I am so pleased at the posts I have read this morning. Others are proving they understand the long posts I have written. I will leave everything on here so hopefully others will too down the road. Congratulations!! WOW!!


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## run4fittness

Designer1234 said:


> here are 3 threads I have posted with my work since 'other crafts' opened.
> 
> Just an aside. I had a bad fall and detatched the tendon in my shoulder so all I can do now is knit - I can't use a sewing machine and a lot of my projects were very messy to say the least. It just gives you an idea that if you have a passion, and you aren't afraid, as well as a life that allows it, you can do a lot of things you might never dreamed you can do. I have gotten back so much from starting the workshops and knitting my projects so one part of life leads to another so I don't worry about what I used to be able to do. I love doing what I am doing now.
> 
> All my work is self taught, although I did learn a lot of techniques when we were in Arizona at the same park and then I used the techniques to do my own thing. That is what you are learning to do here.
> 
> I hope you will look at my work, and reach to do things that speak to you and not be afraid - each of us can do things that will amaze us if we try.
> 
> my 'other crafts.
> 
> http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-214536-1.html
> http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-256694-1.html
> http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-389024-1.html


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## Nonalehm

This am finished basting shoulders again. I re knit the front yoke as my neck opening was to large and am now happy with the size. I had already basted side seams to beginning of yoke. I began to wonder what to do next and how, so went through past instructions to see if I could find if could do the shoulder seam 3 needle (not much of one for seaming, grafting) and lo and behold there was run4fittness with my encouragement!! _ So I will do 3needle bind off and work on the neck ribbing and hope I will then be able to wrap my head around the sleeves. Still learning lots. Thanks_


----------



## run4fittness

Nonalehm said:


> This am finished basting shoulders again. I re knit the front yoke as my neck opening was to large and am now happy with the size. I had already basted side seams to beginning of yoke. I began to wonder what to do next and how, so went through past instructions to see if I could find if could do the shoulder seam 3 needle (not much of one for seaming, grafting) and lo and behold there was run4fittness with my encouragement!! So I will do 3needle bind off and work on the neck ribbing and hope I will then be able to wrap my head around the sleeves. Still learning lots. Thanks


Glad I could help! I really like the three needle bind off. So neat and clean looking and all the stitches line up. I have used it on several different sweaters in the past.


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## KnitnNat

Thanks run4fitness, I think I've got a better feeling about starting the neck now. meggie


----------



## run4fittness

KnitnNat said:


> Thanks run4fitness, I think I've got a better feeling about starting the neck now. meggie


You are most welcome! I was putting it off until I got it straight in my mind how I wanted to do it. Now I am going through the same thought process for the sleeves. I think I need to go for a hike or bike ride and let the mind spin in the background.


----------



## Nonalehm

I am happy!! Neck done and it is to my likening . Hope to seam sides (a project that I need to improve upon) in am and give sleeves in the round a try, a new adventure for me. Here is my efforts so far. Nona

- I like it very much. That nice band where you join the bottom to the top gives it a really professional look. I think this is going to work out to be a sweater you will be very proud of.

Suggestion, you can also put that same color band on the shoulder seams to match the one changing to the yoke? I have done that quite often and it would, in my opinion tie in the whole top. It is looking great!


----------



## KnitnNat

Yep that would help, wish we were closer I would hike or bike along with you.


run4fittness said:


> You are most welcome! I was putting it off until I got it straight in my mind how I wanted to do it. Now I am going through the same thought process for the sleeves. I think I need to go for a hike or bike ride and let the mind spin in the background.


Nonalehm, that is so pretty, I like the diamonds in the center


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## AKnitWit

Nonalehm said:


> I am happy!! Neck done and it is to my likening . Hope to seam sides (a project that I need to improve upon) in am and give sleeves in the round a try, a new adventure for me. Here is my efforts so far. Nona


Well done. Like your colors!


----------



## run4fittness

Nonalehm said:


> I am happy!! Neck done and it is to my likening . Hope to seam sides (a project that I need to improve upon) in am and give sleeves in the round a try, a new adventure for me. Here is my efforts so far. Nona


Nice colors and the diamonds are a nice touch!


----------



## PaKnitter

How many stitches to pick up for sleeves:

http://www.studioknits.com/bookpage68.htm.

it would depend on the width around your arm.

It would measure top to underarm in inches when the sweater is lying flat- which will give you half of the length.(you will require double that number of inches to go around your arm) and use your stitches per inch number. I usually add a few under the arm too. See my post on sleeves.

HOW DO I CALCULATE THE SIZE OF THE OPENING OF SLEEVES FOR A KNITTED SWEATER? you would likely get a few answers.


----------



## PaKnitter

PaKnitter said:


> How many stitches to pick up for sleeves:
> 
> it would depend on the width around your arm.
> 
> It would measure top to underarm in inches when the sweater is lying flat- which will give you half of the length.(you will require double that number of inches to go around your arm) and use your stitches per inch number. I usually add a few under the arm too. See my post on sleeves.
> 
> HOW DO I CALCULATE THE SIZE OF THE OPENING OF SLEEVES FOR A KNITTED SWEATER? you would likely get a few answers.


Corrected link...
http://www.studioknits.com/bookpage68.htm

(there is no period at the end)


----------



## mildredL2

PaKnitter said:


> Corrected link...
> http://www.studioknits.com/bookpage68.htm
> 
> (there is no period at the end)


Thank you for this link, great information!


----------



## AKnitWit

Thanks for following up



PaKnitter said:


> Corrected link...
> http://www.studioknits.com/bookpage68.htm
> 
> (there is no period at the end)


 :thumbup:


----------



## grannyfabulous4

Once again, things didn't work out the way I planned for the week-end. Had company all week-end and didn't get to knit. Yesterday worked on taxes. (Yuck) Today I am going to spend time with a friend who broke her hip last week and is lonely and have some shopping I need to do. So no knitting until evening. I did knit last night a bit. Here is what I have so far. Front is done to neck edge, I think! Back not quite to under-arm where I will change to the multi-colored again. Really liking the springy colors of this. I am loving lots of beautiful sweaters in this group and seeing combinations that I will have to use next.

 That is going to be an absolutely lovely sweater. You are doing a really good job and it is going to be a beauty! I am getting more and more excited to see what is happening and how many of you are doing this so well.

With one or two finished I will open a 'PARADE OF SWEATERS- (Not sure of what I will call it yet) so that people can see what you have all designed yourselves.


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## run4fittness

grannyfabulous4 said:


> Once again, things didn't work out the way I planned for the week-end. Had company all week-end and didn't get to knit. Yesterday worked on taxes. (Yuck) Today I am going to spend time with a friend who broke her hip last week and is lonely and have some shopping I need to do. So no knitting until evening. I did knit last night a bit. Here is what I have so far. Front is done to neck edge, I think! Back not quite to under-arm where I will change to the multi-colored again. Really liking the springy colors of this. I am loving lots of beautiful sweaters in this group and seeing combinations that I will have to use next.


Beautiful colors! I really like the way the stitches break up any potential pooling of colors. :thumbup:


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## grannyfabulous4

run4fittness said:


> Beautiful colors! I really like the way the stitches break up any potential pooling of colors. :thumbup:


run4fitness, when I got to the top part, I did have to use 2 balls and alternate rows as it started to pool, but that seemed to work. Thanks for your comments.


----------



## lupines

I finally caught up with the reading, though I will be re-reading the neck and sleeve posts a few more times. 
I love all the sweaters that have been posted - so many different color combos, yet all are appealing.

Either some knitters are fast or I am very slow...
I have my front almost up to the underarm. I think I will start the back now, and then work the shoulders and sleeves on both pieces.
---------------
That works just as well, and actually if I am unsure what I will do with the neck I knit up to the shoulders on the back and then work on the front. Don't worry, we all knit at different speeds and that is what makes it such a nice thing to do . The only time limit is the one we put on ourselves. We will be open for lots of time - Nice to hear from all of you who are posting their pictures and their thoughts.

I have started editing the beginning and will go through the whole workshop as I get a chance, so that it will be easier. I realize it is overwhelming and although it will still have repeated information (mainly because I answer each individual question, I am deleting a lot of the duplications.

Hopefully I should get it finished in the next 3 or 4 days as it takes quite awhile.


----------



## Ctown Nana

grannyfabulous4 said:


> Once again, things didn't work out the way I planned for the week-end. Had company all week-end and didn't get to knit. Yesterday worked on taxes. (Yuck) Today I am going to spend time with a friend who broke her hip last week and is lonely and have some shopping I need to do. So no knitting until evening. I did knit last night a bit. Here is what I have so far. Front is done to neck edge, I think! Back not quite to under-arm where I will change to the multi-colored again. Really liking the springy colors of this. I am loving lots of beautiful sweaters in this group and seeing combinations that I will have to use next.
> 
> Gorgeous colors!
> 
> That is going to be an absolutely lovely sweater. You are doing a really good job and it is going to be a beauty! I am getting more and more excited to see what is happening and how many of you are doing this so well.
> 
> With one or two finished I will open a 'PARADE OF SWEATERS- (Not sure of what I will call it yet) so that people can see what you have all designed yourselves.


----------



## Magicnymph

Well I knit the skirt of the sweater with no seams, and a pleat. Will pick up stitches across the back and over the shoulder, finishing where the front top meets front bottom.


----------



## Designer1234

Magicnymph said:


> Well I knit the skirt of the sweater with no seams, and a pleat. Will pick up stitches across the back and over the shoulder, finishing where the front top meets front bottom.


 That is going to be an interesting sweater! I can't wait to see the rest. I love your pleat. Keep showing us pictures. This is great - WOW


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## run4fittness

Magicnymph said:


> Well I knit the skirt of the sweater with no seams, and a pleat. Will pick up stitches across the back and over the shoulder, finishing where the front top meets front bottom.


I like your idea! Looking great. :thumbup:


----------



## tami_ohio

I am way behind. I have only read to page 16. I have the sideways front finished, and have about 1 1/2" done on the back. Sunday was a down day, as I was just too tired to do anything. Monday my DD and I cleaned house, and today I had some of my cousins over for lunch and sorted thru old family photos. We had a wonderful time,and even managed to put some names on photos that didn't have any! I will keep plugging away. I am learning so much! Thank you, again, Shirley for all you are doing for this workshop!

 As I said when we started - there is no time limit on this workshop. However, I hope we can do another one of our own design so that will likely start once we get some more finished garments. I am so pleased that so many feel it has been worthwhile, as I was very concerned that it would not be successful. I am so happy that it IS successful. I am proud of everyone of you.

I am very intrigued with the sweater with the tuck at the back and look forward to seeing that one finished
as well as all the other sweaters. I am proud of you all


----------



## carolky

Thank you for the options. I got impatient, so did indeed rip it back to the ribbing. I am reworking it with the 'arrowhead lace' stitch. I'm really liking it; it is just enough pattern to detract from the less than gorgeous colorway. I will try that leaning stitch pattern for a scarf later on. It is now going well; I'm not a fast knitter, so I'll post again when I'm to the armholes.


carolky said:


> I want to post a picture of my work so far, but I'm not sure how. I have the pictures ready to post...what should I do?
> Once I get them posted, I ask that somebody advise me if this is going to be a hot mess, or should I continue and hope for the best. I don't want to go further in case I should go back to the frog pond.
> The problem is with the stitch pattern for the center panel. It is a leaning rib, but it appears it going to make the rest of the stitches look wonky.
> 
> I think you have one option. Is there a stitch that you can do a section with the angle heading in the opposite direction? That would look good if you did the two different directions on the front band. I do think if it stays, you might find that it does look wonky. Does anyone have any experience with this stitch? does it stretch? these are things you should consider.
> 
> If there isn't a way to balance it, I think you might be better to rip it out unless someone else has a better idea. I hate to tell you that but you still are near the bottom and you have discovered the problem early. I think something that doesn't head off in another direction would work better.
> 
> I have had that happen numerous times. It means you will spend an extra evening knitting to where you are now but you will feel better about it.  One thing you could do, on thinking about it is put two or three rows of garter stitch across, and put another straight up pattern for another section the same height,, then 3 rows garter stitch and back to this stitch only make it fewer rows. and up the front. Then do the other straight up stitch across the top. It is just something you should think about and then decide. I alway look for an answer to a problem but it doesn't always work out. That is part of the process. So you decide, but you DON'T GIVE UP


----------



## Ctown Nana

Hello Everyone---I finished my top and have learned so much on this journey--can't wait to make another. I tried the sweater on and it fits this short "fluffy" body very well [sorry I don't have anyone to take a photo of me wearing it]. When my DH returns from his trip, I will have him take a picture of me modeling. I am not sure if you can tell on the hanger, but I made the back slightly longer as I like the look of elliptical tops. The neckline and sleeves are just a rolled edging. Shirley thank you so much for all the time and help!!

* You have done an outstanding job! I love your neck and sleeves and you have given me some ideas. I think that is an absolutely wonderful sweater. You have every right to be extremely proud of yourself. I am so thrilled, one more finished sweater and we will open the "Parade". I am soooo happy that you are all doing so well!

Fantastic!*


----------



## DaylilyDawn

It looks great!


----------



## mildredL2

Ctown Nana, your top is absolutely stunning! I love the different stitches you used for the skirt, your colors, and the rolled neck -- all so beautiful! :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:


----------



## Kateydid

It turned out gorgeous. I love everything about it, colors, stitches and best of all it fits you! WOW!


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## AmberSparkles

Love it!!!


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## Ctown Nana

Thank you everyone for your extremely kind comments!! I am so impressed with all the wonderful designer sweaters in progress and can't wait to see the final results.


----------



## lil rayma

Great job, Ctown Nana.


----------



## run4fittness

Ctown Nana said:


> Hello Everyone---I finished my top and have learned so much on this journey--can't wait to make another. I tried the sweater on and it fits this short "fluffy" body very well (sorry I don't have anyone to take a photo of me wearing it). When my DH returns from his trip, I will have him take a picture of me modeling. I am not sure if you can tell on the hanger, but I made the back slightly longer as I like the look of elliptical tops. The neckline and sleeves are just a rolled edging. Shirley thank you so much for all the time and help!!
> 
> Fantastic!


Wow, that is beautiful! Kudos to you!


----------



## Chesneys

Ctown Nana said:


> Hello Everyone---I finished my top and have learned so much on this journey--can't wait to make another. I tried the sweater on and it fits this short "fluffy" body very well (sorry I don't have anyone to take a photo of me wearing it). When my DH returns from his trip, I will have him take a picture of me modeling. I am not sure if you can tell on the hanger, but I made the back slightly longer as I like the look of elliptical tops. The neckline and sleeves are just a rolled edging. Shirley thank you so much for all the time and help!!


Love it. Colors, stitches, everything. Now I know for sure that I will make one at some point.


----------



## Chesneys

I don't like working with 100 percent cotton, so have been trying some of the blends. I had been having difficulty finding a variegated I liked in a blend, when Lion's brand posted this as a new yarn a couple of days ago. In case you haven't seen it......

http://www.lionbrand.com/yarns/shawlinaball.html


----------



## MarilynKnits

Ooh, that looks like delicious yarn. I can't decide which of the color ways I like best.



Chesneys said:


> I don't like working with 100 percent cotton, so have been trying some of the blends. I had been having difficulty finding a variegated I liked in a blend, when Lion's brand posted this as a new yarn a couple of days ago. In case you haven't seen it......
> 
> http://www.lionbrand.com/yarns/shawlinaball.html


----------



## BrattyPatty

Beautiful! I love the "springtime" colors you chose!


----------



## lins

(quote=Ctown Nana)Hello Everyone---I finished my top and have learned so much on this journey--can't wait to make another. I tried the sweater on and it fits this short "fluffy" body very well [sorry I don't have anyone to take a photo of me wearing it]. When my DH returns from his trip, I will have him take a picture of me modeling. I am not sure if you can tell on the hanger, but I made the back slightly longer as I like the look of elliptical tops. The neckline and sleeves are just a rolled edging. Shirley thank you so much for all the time and help!
[/quote]

 You have done an outstanding job! I love your neck and sleeves and you have given me some ideas. I think that is an absolutely wonderful sweater. You have every right to be extremely proud of yourself. I am so thrilled, one more finished sweater and we will open the "Parade". I am soooo happy that you are all doing so well!

Fantastic!

Well done! It's gorgeous.


----------



## lins

BrattyPatty said:


> Beautiful! I love the "springtime" colors you chose!


 :thumbup:


----------



## lupines

Ctown Nana said:


> Hello Everyone---I finished my top and have learned so much on this journey--can't wait to make another. I tried the sweater on and it fits this short "fluffy" body very well (sorry I don't have anyone to take a photo of me wearing it). When my DH returns from his trip, I will have him take a picture of me modeling. I am not sure if you can tell on the hanger, but I made the back slightly longer as I like the look of elliptical tops. The neckline and sleeves are just a rolled edging. Shirley thank you so much for all the time and help!!


Congratulations on a beautiful sweater! I love the stitches and the color.


----------



## damemary

You have done a great job. Thanks for the inspiration.



Ctown Nana said:


> Hello Everyone---I finished my top and have learned so much on this journey--can't wait to make another. I tried the sweater on and it fits this short "fluffy" body very well (sorry I don't have anyone to take a photo of me wearing it). When my DH returns from his trip, I will have him take a picture of me modeling. I am not sure if you can tell on the hanger, but I made the back slightly longer as I like the look of elliptical tops. The neckline and sleeves are just a rolled edging. Shirley thank you so much for all the time and help!!


----------



## Wombatnomore

Ctown Nana said:


> Hello Everyone---I finished my top and have learned so much on this journey--can't wait to make another. I tried the sweater on and it fits this short "fluffy" body very well [sorry I don't have anyone to take a photo of me wearing it]. When my DH returns from his trip, I will have him take a picture of me modeling. I am not sure if you can tell on the hanger, but I made the back slightly longer as I like the look of elliptical tops. The neckline and sleeves are just a rolled edging. Shirley thank you so much for all the time and help!!


That is one beautiful top! Congratulations. It's truly outstanding.


----------



## Jessica-Jean

The reason all the 'quotes' are screwed up in the last few messages, is because of the square brackets used within the message. Replace them by () or {}, and it will work as KP's system wants.


----------



## tami_ohio

Ctown Nana said:


> Hello Everyone---I finished my top and have learned so much on this journey--can't wait to make another. I tried the sweater on and it fits this short "fluffy" body very well(sorry I don't have anyone to take a photo of me wearing it). When my DH returns from his trip, I will have him take a picture of me modeling. I am not sure if you can tell on the hanger, but I made the back slightly longer as I like the look of elliptical tops. The neckline and sleeves are just a rolled edging. Shirley thank you so much for all the time and help!!
> 
> You have done an outstanding job! I love your neck and sleeves and you have given me some ideas. I think that is an absolutely wonderful sweater. You have every right to be extremely proud of yourself. I am so thrilled, one more finished sweater and we will open the "Parade". I am soooo happy that you are all doing so well!
> 
> Fantastic!


Beautifully done! I am way behind.


----------



## SQM

Very very cool. Did it require a lot of concentration? I love the lines.


----------



## lpeni

(quote=Ctown Nana)Hello Everyone---I finished my top and have learned so much on this journey--can't wait to make another. I tried the sweater on and it fits this short "fluffy" body very well (sorry I don't have anyone to take a photo of me wearing it) When my DH returns from his trip, I will have him take a picture of me modeling. I am not sure if you can tell on the hanger, but I made the back slightly longer as I like the look of elliptical tops. The neckline and sleeves are just a rolled edging. Shirley thank you so much for all the time and help!![/quote]

What a beautiful sweater and I love the rolled neckline.


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## Jomoyach

Beautiful sweater Ctown Nana.


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## Caesarteaser

Jomoyach said:


> Beautiful sweater Ctown Nana.


 :thumbup:


----------



## AKnitWit

mildredL2 said:


> Can't figure out how to do this yet -- I did the bottom band in main color, continued with main color for one side,then joined contrast color for the center panel, then joined another ball of main color for the other side. But, as I continue additional rows, changing yarn as I go, the center panel is not attached to the sides. Can you please tell me what I'm doing wrong?
> If I continue this way, the center panel would need to be seamed to the sides.
> I appreciate your explanation of how to do the sideways version, and may change to that method, but I am sure there is some obvious thing that I can't figure out about the vertical method, and would love to know how to do it.
> Thank you for your help.
> 
> it sounds as if you are not twisting them together. When you knit a row and you add a color you have to twist the new color around the old then continue knitting in the new color until you get to the main color on the other side, then (each and every row) you twist the new color Once) around the old so that it holds the old color. If you don't understand what I am saying - search on u tube (I use google search) and type in HOW DO I CHANGE COLORS ON A KNITTING ROW SO THAT THERE IS NO HOLE? There should be lots of videos and information there. basically you want to keep the two colors attached every time you change colors.)


I have used this web site for "twisting" yarns and it works for me. Sorry I have been slow with this information.

http://yarnsub.com/articles/techniques/neater-intarsia/?utm_source=sendinblue&utm_campaign=YARNSUB_NEWS__FEBRUARY_2016&utm_medium=email


----------



## Designer1234

Jessica-Jean said:


> The reason all the 'quotes' are screwed up in the last few messages, is because of the square brackets used within the message. Replace them by () or {}, and it will work as KP's system wants.


Thanks, once again, Jessica-Jean.


----------



## Designer1234

Good morning! It is so nice to see so many KP members remarking on our first sweater!

Thanks to Jessica Jean for helping us sort things out. I am looking forward to seeing the others that are works in progress. If you are having a problem make sure you post and I will help you and as you can see by the posts, so will others. This is as much a 'Conversation' as a class! Thanks to those who have helped with links and suggestions. Onward and upward --Just make sure when we post that we use the ( or the { - (not the Lower case (})when we post a message as mentioned by Jessica Jean. Otherwise it won't work well. . [ is used only for the tags and smiles in order to highlight. (I hope I am clear here!)


----------



## Becoolwraps

Beautiful sweater Ctown Nana! I really like the rolled neck and sleeves. Think I might try to copy when I get there. They say copying is the best compliment, so I must congratulate and copy yours!
Terry in Abbotsford, Bc


----------



## Ctown Nana

Becoolwraps said:


> Beautiful sweater Ctown Nana! I really like the rolled neck and sleeves. Think I might try to copy when I get there. They say copying is the best compliment, so I must congratulate and copy yours!
> Terry in Abbotsford, Bc


Terry----Thanks so much!! I put 10 stitches on a stitch holder on the front center when I was ready to do the neckline. I then decreased 1 stitch in from the neckline every other row until I got to the shoulders. I can't wait to see your sweater.


----------



## ccmjwb

Ctown Nana said:


> Hello Everyone---I finished my top and have learned so much on this journey--can't wait to make another. I tried the sweater on and it fits this short "fluffy" body very well [sorry I don't have anyone to take a photo of me wearing it]. When my DH returns from his trip, I will have him take a picture of me modeling. I am not sure if you can tell on the hanger, but I made the back slightly longer as I like the look of elliptical tops. The neckline and sleeves are just a rolled edging. Shirley thank you so much for all the time and help!!
> You have done an outstanding job! I love your neck and sleeves and you have given me some ideas. I think that is an absolutely wonderful sweater. You have every right to be extremely proud of yourself. I am so thrilled, one more finished sweater and we will open the "Parade". I am soooo happy that you are all doing so well!
> 
> Fantastic!


Wow-you did a great job! I love all the different texture at the bottom. I didn't do the sideways one because I hate picking up stitches but may have to give it a go!


----------



## Jessica-Jean

ccmjwb said:


> Wow-you did a great job! I love all the different texture at the bottom. I didn't do the sideways one because* I hate picking up stitches* but may have to give it a go!


IF you work a 'chain' selvedge, picking up stitches is a breeze.


----------



## Ctown Nana

Jessica-Jean said:


> IF you work a 'chain' selvedge, picking up stitches is a breeze.


Hi Jessica-Jean Could you please explain how to do a "chain" selvedge...do you slip the first or last stitches? Thanks so much for your help


----------



## Jessica-Jean

Ctown Nana said:


> Hi Jessica-Jean Could you please explain how to do a "chain" selvedge...do you slip the first or last stitches? Thanks so much for your help


That's knitter's choice. It also depends on what the next stitch is.

:arrow: slip first stitch purlwise, pass yarn _between_ the needle tips, and knit the next stitch. Knit the last stitch.

:arrow: slip the first stitch knitwise, knit the next stitch. Purl the last stitch.

:arrow: knit the first stitch. Slip the last stitch knitwise.

And there are probably a dozen more means of doing the same thing.

Where I wrote 'knit the next stitch', there's a reason for that. If the next stitch is a purl stitch, that slipped stitch will be looser than had the next stitch been knitted. Unless it's garter stitch, I usually add two stitches to each end of the piece - one to slip and one to knit at the start of every row, and the next to last stitch knitted.

Now, off to swatching you go!  See which best works with your style of knitting and with your pattern.


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## Ctown Nana

Jessica-Jean said:


> That's knitter's choice. It also depends on what the next stitch is.
> 
> :arrow: slip first stitch purlwise, pass yarn _between_ the needle tips, and knit the next stitch. Knit the last stitch.
> 
> :arrow: slip the first stitch knitwise, knit the next stitch. Purl the last stitch.
> 
> :arrow: knit the first stitch. Slip the last stitch knitwise.
> 
> And there are probably a dozen more means of doing the same
> thing.
> 
> Where I wrote 'knit the next stitch', there's a reason for that. If the next stitch is a purl stitch, that slipped stitch will be looser than had the next stitch been knitted. Unless it's garter stitch, I usually add two stitches to each end of the piece - one to slip and one to knit at the start of every row, and the next to last stitch knitted.
> 
> Now, off to swatching you go!  See which best works with your style of knitting and with your pattern.


Many thanks for this information!! Will try this tomorrow after a good night's rest [I hope].


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## DaylilyDawn

I have gotten my gauge with the yarn using a size 5 needle and this is it: 5.5 inches across the swatch horizontally and 8 inches going vertically. When I can get my husband to measure me, I can calculate how many stitches to cast on.

[/color=blue]Just read the information. I have edited the first page and there is a lot of information there. I would read the whole workshop two or three times in order to get an idea of what you plan on doing. enjoy![/color]


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## mildredL2

AKnitWit said:


> I have used this web site for "twisting" yarns and it works for me. Sorry I have been slow with this information.
> 
> http://yarnsub.com/articles/techniques/neater-intarsia/?utm_source=sendinblue&utm_campaign=YARNSUB_NEWS__FEBRUARY_2016&utm_medium=email


Thank you so much for this link!


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## AKnitWit

I am so impressed with the pictures of the sweaters everyone is posting.

I am now at the point where I will be seaming the sides. I have lost myself in the many postings so my apologies for asking a question that has most likely been answered.

Do I attach shoulders first? This is my first ever garment and am learning much. Thanks to Shirley and many others.


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## KnitnNat

Thank you JJ, That is the best I've ever heard it explained.


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## Treenya

I have finished the front and back of the bottom up dishcloth T, have joined the shoulder, and added ribbing to the neckline. 

So, although I have seen messages that mention the sleeve treatment, I have not read any details. Do we just do as we please? On a drop sleeve is the sleeve just a straight "pick up stitches and knit to length desired?

Attached picture of my progress


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## lil rayma

Treenya said:


> I have finished the front and back of the bottom up dishcloth T, have joined the shoulder, and added ribbing to the neckline.
> 
> So, although I have seen messages that mention the sleeve treatment, I have not read any details. Do we just do as we please? On a drop sleeve is the sleeve just a straight "pick up stitches and knit to length desired?
> 
> I have answered your pm, but want to answer here too. I use circular needles and pick up stitches to knit the sleeve (I use magic loop however circulars work too). I knit it without reducing the sleeve if it is going to be short).
> 
> However how you make your sleeve is up to each of you and there are pictures of some of mind to possibly give you some ideas ps- there is a link reposted below and previously on the workshop.
> 
> Attached picture of my progress


I think it is going to be beautiful. You have done an excellent job. This is the sweater that will start you (I hope) on a journey where you do things YOUR WAY, rather than someone elses way. You work is excellent and I can imagine that your finished sweater will be one you wear often with pride. I am so pleased at what you are accomplishing

What a very pretty sweater, so far. Your knitting is so nice and even. Cannot wait to see it finished. Keep up the good work.


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## Becoolwraps

Jessica-Jean said:


> IF you work a 'chain' selvedge, picking up stitches is a breeze.


Thanks for the tip Jessica Jean! As. Beginner it is great you shared this tip. All the best!
Terry in Abbotsford BC


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## Designer1234

SLEEVES :

Here is a link for information on sleeves.

http://www.studioknits.com/bookpage68.htm

it is also posted previously.

------

*Ladies I am going through this workshop and will try to make it easier to read by editing as many of the duplicates as I feel is helpful*.

I was concerned when we started that if I answered questions there would be duplicate information and it would be confusing.

I am happy to say that it has not stopped many of you from understanding what I am trying to get across here. I won't delete anything that might cause someone to misunderstand what I am saying, nor will I delete all the duplications as there is no way I can do that and answer important questions.

Another thing - the workshop does not always give you specific answers. I do suggest often that you search for the answers yourself as that is the only way you will be able to accomplish making your own projects without a pattern in the future That is how I find out ways to do things and I am learning every day.

_I will, because I have been asked to by many of the students, leave my thoughts and reasons for what I do. So there will still be a lot written here, and the workshop needs to be read more than once. If you read it more than once you will understand what we are trying to accomplish_. Shirley

ps._ It is time consuming and I am also setting up another workshop so it won't be done quickly I'm afraid. Just read it as often as you need to.

One of the main lessons on this workshop is to SEARCH for the information you need and I have suggested how you do that_


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## Ctown Nana

Treenya said:


> I have finished the front and back of the bottom up dishcloth T, have joined the shoulder, and added ribbing to the neckline.
> 
> So, although I have seen messages that mention the sleeve treatment, I have not read any details. Do we just do as we please? On a drop sleeve is the sleeve just a straight "pick up stitches and knit to length desired?
> 
> Attached picture of my progress


Fantastic job!!!


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## LUVCRAFTS

In asking you questions previously I forgot to send you my sincere appreciation for all your hard work. I am up to the sleeves portion & while I'm not thrilled with my outcome, I have been made to think "outside the box" when knitting a sweater. I've learned a great deal & hopefully I will be more successful in my second attempt. Again, Shirley, thank you for everything!!

 Thankyou so much! I am glad you found this to be of value. I do hope you will carry on with us. I hope everyone will post pictures of their sweater. If it didn't turn out as well as any of you hoped, please don't give up!

I have been doing this for a lot of years and certainly there are many times when I have finished something that I wasn't completely happy with. I have ripped out miles of stitches over the years, I have changed ideas in mid stream, but I usually have made myself finish a project just because i wanted to see how I could change it for the better in the future. It is NOT something we learn over night. Every sweater or scarf or hat, or dress is a new project. We hopefully learn as we go along as to what works and what doesnt. That is why I find my NOTEBOOKS so helpful and so important to my work.

I have gained a lot from this workshop too. Different ideas, new techniques and I have written them down and will search for information about how to learn them and will incorporate them in future work.

By the way, I have never done a Chain Selvidge either remember, I don't follow patterns so I have to learn things in different ways. Jessica Jean has given me ideas so often. Thanks JJ! I hope you will drop by all my workshops especially and others as well as your knowledge is so useful as well as your willingness to help with links and new ideas.


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## Treenya

Thank you lil rayma,

This is the first cotton sweater I have tried. I think it makes the stitches seem more even.

T


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## Treenya

Thank you Ctown Nana,

It is still a work in progress but I think I will enjoy wearing it.

T


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## Designer1234

I hope to open the PARADE OF DISHCLOTH COTTON ORIGINAL SWEATERS) Next week so as you finish your sweaters, please post a picture here. I want them to be here so that new readers can see what is being accomplished.

When I open the Parade I will ask you to post a picture or pictures there and discuss your feelings about the experience.

===========
_*I also am wondering if you would post if you are interested in carrying on with another sweater* We can do one of two things.

#1 - we can design our own sweater , preferably (because I think it is important to get an idea of how sideways knitting helps you to knit for your frame), but it could be a stashbuster, like some of mine, a variety of texture strips, all one color - or the bottom knitted in one pattern, or no pattern.

#2 - we can use a top down written cardigan pattern. I have two I used but I only follow them generally and recently I have been trying to adjust the neck in a better way than in previous cardigans. I am working on a new idea and I think it just might be my answer. I have always knit them with a top a bit too large to balance but I think I have found a way to adjust my pattern to fit my body better than before. It is ongoing. I have very few sweaters finished that I don't wear. I am not a very fussy knitter and am pretty easy going as long as I like the general appearance and usually I like color and texture in all my work.

I will post a picture of my sweater in progress in a few minutes . It is the top down and I think I like the new neck I have figured out. I would like your thoughts on it.

So, I hope you will join me in carrying on this workshop. It will be Part II but will be included with the one we are doing now.

So ladies let me know if you will join another adventure with me. This time you will make most of the decisions using what we have talk about. I will still be here to make suggestions. I don't suggest you go too far from where you are now. Use the same general idea and do your own thing about the patterns, the stitches and even the gauge. I WOULD however recommend that for your first two or three sweaters you work in something not to far from the yarn you have used. Don't over reach unless you really want to - if you do then go for it!

Don't be disappointed if you don't have it perfect! Give yourself a chance to learn new things. USE THE SEARCH ENGINE TO FIND ANSWERS FOR WHAT YOU WANT TO DO! I live on google - and I have used so many links.

I also lurk on pictures to get ideas. I don't mean to copy, I mean to get IDEAS that I can incorporate in one of my sweaters.

Once in awhile I will make a copy of a sweater with a shape I like, or a stitch I like or a sleeve I like . and if I don't make a copy I write down the link in my notebook but also put it in my KP bookmards with ****** beside any thing I bookmark which will show something I would like to incorporate.

So carry on with your sweaters, and give me an idea of how many of you want to do another one. I can stay open for weeks if we want. It can be a journey for us all. Up to each of you. Shirley_ PS. I would need at least 5 or 6 (or more I hope) to join us and promise to finish if they possibly can. It is quite time consuming and at least that many sweaters in progress would make it worthwhile for the effort involved. I really hope all of you will give it a chance. You are not being rushed to finish the one you are doing . I will still be able to help you as long as it takes with no one being rushed.


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## DaylilyDawn

I am in with knitting another one after this one.


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## Designer1234

DaylilyDawn said:


> I am in with knitting another one after this one.


Great!


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## Designer1234

This is the top down sweater I started and hopefully it will turn out well. I figured out a new neck and it seems to be working out so far. I haven't decided anything much about the 'skirt' part of the sweater except that it will be widened under the arms by increasing about every l0 rows so that it will have a flare. I am not at all sure I will like having a flare as it might make my lower area look heavier than it already does so I am knitting with the idea that I may pull it out at least part way.. I am also not sure whether, or where I will add more of the pink. It is an ongoing adventure. (as it is still on the needles, you will see where one rib will button on the top of the band. Shirley


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## mildredL2

I also would like to continue with another sweater after this one.
I have done everything but the sleeves on my sweater, and will post a picture as soon as it is finished.
So far it fits -- very happy about that!
Thanks for all the help and encouragement!


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## Kateydid

Hi Shirley
I too would like to do another sweater and an other and a whole bunch. I've seen yours and everyone's and I have a zillion ideas bouncing around in my head. 
Also, I have a question. What is the best way to block our cotton sweaters?
Thank you
Kathy

I just pinned them down and lightly sprayed them if I remember correctly. I don't do a lot of blocking with Acrylics which I use a lot, I lay the sweater flat, pin it down and spray it with water and leave it over night or until it is dried.That is a fairly light spray - I don't soak it just lightly spray it - it should be a bit damp and then leave it. 

I don't have much of a problem with the shape disappearing (another reason I like acrylic blends). I figure for all that work I want something that will last, not pill, and not shrink or change shape. I fold them rather than hang them up, as well.


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## Ctown Nana

Hi Shirley Please count me in on another sweater workshop...I love to see everyone's ideas and beautiful creations. I have learned so much from doing my first top and really enjoy working with the dishcloth cotton [I was rather skeptical at first to be honest]:].

Actually I was concerned about that too, as it has been years since I knit that sweater. I am glad that your worked out so well. Have you worn it yet? it is a nice feeling when people like your work. You did a lovely job.


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## Anniemort

Hi Shirley, I would love try a different sweater after this one, although I am just getting started. My mother died the day you kicked off this workshop, and I have been distracted and not feeling like knitting. But I figured maybe if I knit and prayed for mom at the same time I would be feel more like knitting. So far ,it's working. I used a provisional cast on and have a dozen or so rows done. I hope you keep this workshop open for a while longer (I know it is a lot of work, but so much appreciated) just in case I need help and can't find the answer in what has already been provided.

I am so sorry about your Mother. No need to rush your sweater, I hope it will help you deal with your loss. I found when I lost my son I really found knitting helped me a lot.

I send you and your family my condolences. Please know that as happens on KP you have a lot of people who care about how you are doing. Shirley


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## DaylilyDawn

Anniemort,
Please accept my condolences for your mother. I know exactly what you are going through. I went through it in 2003 when my mother passed.


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## carolky

Anniemort, My condolences and prayers for comfort in you time of loss. I lost my mother years ago, but I still miss her terrible.
P.S. Do you happen to be from Belgium? When I was a young teen (I'm 73) I had a penpal in Belgium; her name was Annie Moortgat.


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## Chesneys

Treenya said:


> I have finished the front and back of the bottom up dishcloth T, have joined the shoulder, and added ribbing to the neckline.
> 
> So, although I have seen messages that mention the sleeve treatment, I have not read any details. Do we just do as we please? On a drop sleeve is the sleeve just a straight "pick up stitches and knit to length desired?
> 
> Attached picture of my progress


*Very* pretty! That sweater will go with everything. Good choice.


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## Anniemort

No, I'm from Ohio, last name Mortimer. That made me smile.!


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## tami_ohio

PaKnitter said:


> I am struggling with this workshop even though I have read the many posts here a thousand times because I haven't knitted a sweater since the 70's for myself.
> Everything sort of makes sense but...
> Looking at photos and pulling out a well fitting sweater just doesn't work for me because I need to know why.
> I found this... http://www.ravelry.com/projects/estherkate/how-to---hand-knit---necklines
> and bingo...it clicked.
> I am your worse student.
> 
> Linda
> Linda! I have been looking for a link like this for ages and I thank you!! Ladies. save this link and use it every time you do a neck!! I struggled with my neck shapes and sizes for years. This information is excellent. I would put it on my desk top and I know I will use it too. I don't have a
> 'worse' student. I am well aware how confusing this whole thing is for those who have never done anything like it in the past. However, I applaud you for hanging in there and looking for information that will help you to accomplish your neck. Please don't give up. It is a frustrating, hard to do method, BUT if you make yourself try it and do it, you will open doors for yourself in your knitting that are soo important and will give you confidence. It is not a failure, to find something difficult. If any decides they just don't want to do this, that is perfectly okay. However I think that it will help all of you to CHANGE a written pattern even in small ways, which will help you get a better fit.
> 
> I do hope you will continue on with me-(all of you) doing the side knit bottoms, and even the top down caridgans which I am working on right now. It is much faster and in some ways easier to do top down both cardigans and pullovers. With this neck information it will make a huge difference.
> 
> I thank you so much for the information we are receiving and I see that you are 'getting it'.
> 
> I have nearly given up for years because I have such a time with fitting my neck and then the top which is no problem but then the changing to a whole size larger is where the challenge has come in. I love what I do, and I hope you will get past the confusion and uncertainty and just read the info again and again, and READ THIS LINK FROM LINDA.
> 
> I will use it over and over
> 
> I have it on my desk top - I just saved the whole thing.


Thank you for the neckline link. I have saved it to my Ravelry favorites, copied and pasted to my Word documents, and printed a copy to put in my notebook. Very helpful!


----------



## tami_ohio

leslee said:


> Hi Shirley ,Just checking in with my my progress. I have finished front and back and sewn the shoulders together and knitted the neck band. I don`t suit a drop sleeve so I have made mine with a slightly set in sleeve . Next job is to pick-up and knit my sleevs down top .I plan on knitting with the green and the varigated yarn so that the colours match until almost the elbow when I will swap to all varigated yarn. Then see how it looks. :lol:
> I have been knitting nearly 60 years and this is the first time I have made a jumper/sweater with cotton. It won`t be my last , I love how it feels.
> 
> WOW!!! It is fantastic. I think you are doing a wonderful job! That sweater is lovely! I am glad you feel this class has been worthwhile. I see you have used your own ideas to accomplish it and obviously it works beautifully.
> 
> Thanks for posting. I think your set in sleeves idea works really well and gets rid of some of the excess fabric. I wanted so much for you and others to turn this into your own sweater, and to use your knowledge to decide for yourselves how to change things to your own satisfaction. You have done that! I applaud you! I appreciate you posting this as you are the first nearly finished sweater so far
> 
> . I wonder how many others are at the stage you are.
> 
> PICTURES PLEASE LADIES! yeah! You are all making my day.


I love this sweater! I look forward to seeing it finished.


----------



## tami_ohio

mildredL2 said:


> Wow, Shirley, the scope of your artistic talents is positively jaw-dropping, thank you for sharing your other crafts!
> I do appreciate the encouragement of your philosophical comments about freedom to change things, make them work, and create even more beautiful results from a situation that might have seemed like a problem.
> Hope that you will decide to leave all these ideas in the workshop when it is archived. For me, these have been a big part of the learning process of this workshop, and opened a new aspect of knitting. A million thanks!


I totally agree with MildredL2!


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## run4fittness

Count me in for both of them! I have some ideas in my head for the sideways knit. And your top down is fantastic! I have worked my own way through several top downs but there is always something new to learn. I like what you have done with the neck. That would be great for folks who don't like things up close.

Thank you dear lady! You are the best!


----------



## tami_ohio

MargegraM said:


> Shirley, would it be possible for anyone with this problem to go to their sewing machine or serger and take in the side seams or would the sky fall as this is certainly NOT knitting pc. I guess that it would affect the arm opening and sleeves in a negative way so maybe I answered my own question. :roll: I think it might be necessary to serge up over the join to the under arm and along the sleeve but I am not sure.
> 
> I know that some people use a serger for that exact problem. I never have because I don't have a serger. However I would go on main, (if no one answers here) and ask whether anyone could give you advice about reducing the fit of a straight up and down sweater by using a zigzag stitch or a serger. It would be something I would be interested in knowing too. I think it would be one of those things that everyone who knits (harder to do by crochet) .
> Any one else have an idea about this?


I have not read far enough to see if anyone else has commented on this suggestion. I will put in my two cents. I have sewn for years, though not great at it, and have taken in many tops that needed adjustments. I think, and this is just my opinion, that once the top is finished, or at least finished to the point of needing to do the sleeves, that there is no reason you can't put the top on inside out, and have someone help you pin it to the size/shape you want, making sure that you leave enough room for your armholes and sleeves for ease of movement. After it is pinned to your satisfaction, use a basting stitch and take the pins out. Try it on again. If it still fits the way you want it to, stitch the 
"seams" with a normal stitch length. Now your knit stitches should be secure, just like when you steek. (I have not yet been brave enough to try steeking!) Now trim your excess knitting to the seam allowance you want. Now use your serger, or even several more rows of straight stitching, then zigzag over those extra rows of straight stitches. I think that will work just fine.


----------



## tami_ohio

run4fittness said:


> RUN4FITTNESS WROTE:* Here is what I have done so far. I am keeping it very simple for the first one. More to figure out gauge, etc., so when I do go "fancy" there won't be as much frogging*.
> 
> _I did the body part in the round. I was going back and forth for the back and hubby didn't like the way the variegated was looking. So, I went in the round. I cast on 161 stitches, knit the first and last together. Seven rows of 2 x 2 ribbing. Then straight stockinette_.
> ---
> At the yoke, I put 6 stitches for each underarm on waste yarn and then did the front yoke. I measured that I would need 11 inches from under the arm to top of shoulder for a smooth fit.
> ---
> At 5 1/2 inches I started the neck shaping. Again, I put the six center stitches on waste yarn, and then worked both sides at the same time. I decreases 10 times per side and then finished up straight.
> ---
> For the back yoke it is straight up and then did the three needle bind off for the shoulder.
> ---
> For the neck I had placed the back live stitches on a needle and then decreased every other stitch. On the neckline down to the center, I picked up two out of three stitches, the 6 across the center and then back up, again 2 out of 3 stitches. Then I did the 2 x 2 ribbing for 4 rows and bound off in pattern.
> ---
> Next, I need to decide what type of sleeves. When I tried this on I was majorly surprised at how well it fit. I could almost just knit a few rows of ribbing around the sleeves and call it a vest!
> 
> Please feel free to comment on what I have done so far and how you would change it. Always open to suggestions.
> 
> Thanks for looking and now off to reread Shirley's posts to figure out which sleeve I like best! Thanks Shirley, you are the best!
> 
> I am delighted with what you have done!! you have completely read all my thoughts and all my many posts and you have done such an outstanding job! I think I will highlight your post if you don't mind as it might help others who are struggling with parts of their sweaters. I thank you for giving us the details and I have learned some ideas from you. I am absolutely certain that you will continue to do your own thing from now on, so already this workshop is a success. I would love to see the finished sweater, on you. If you don't want your face to be shown, would you get someone to take a picture of your finished sweater once you complete it and try it on?? I believe your post will help others to carry on and I thank you so much. Over the years on these threads, I have come to think of you as a friend and I am really impressed that you have taken the trouble to tell us how you have done YOUR sweater to fit YOUR shape.
> 
> Thank you so much - please consider putting on a picture when you first wear it. You will feel so good every time you wear it as you know YOU DID IT. I am so pleased at the posts I have read this morning. Others are proving they understand the long posts I have written. I will leave everything on here so hopefully others will too down the road. Congratulations!! WOW!!


Run4Fitness, I really like what you have done! And I am using the same blue varigated for my bottom and back, but doing it sideways! I also like your explanation of what you did.


----------



## tami_ohio

Nonalehm said:


> I am happy!! Neck done and it is to my likening . Hope to seam sides (a project that I need to improve upon) in am and give sleeves in the round a try, a new adventure for me. Here is my efforts so far. Nona
> 
> - I like it very much. That nice band where you join the bottom to the top gives it a really professional look. I think this is going to work out to be a sweater you will be very proud of.
> 
> Suggestion, you can also put that same color band on the shoulder seams to match the one changing to the yoke? I have done that quite often and it would, in my opinion tie in the whole top. It is looking great!


 :thumbup:


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## tami_ohio

grannyfabulous4 said:


> Once again, things didn't work out the way I planned for the week-end. Had company all week-end and didn't get to knit. Yesterday worked on taxes. (Yuck) Today I am going to spend time with a friend who broke her hip last week and is lonely and have some shopping I need to do. So no knitting until evening. I did knit last night a bit. Here is what I have so far. Front is done to neck edge, I think! Back not quite to under-arm where I will change to the multi-colored again. Really liking the springy colors of this. I am loving lots of beautiful sweaters in this group and seeing combinations that I will have to use next.
> 
> That is going to be an absolutely lovely sweater. You are doing a really good job and it is going to be a beauty! I am getting more and more excited to see what is happening and how many of you are doing this so well.
> 
> With one or two finished I will open a 'PARADE OF SWEATERS- (Not sure of what I will call it yet) so that people can see what you have all designed yourselves.


Very pretty! Life has been getting in my way, also.


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## tami_ohio

tami_ohio said:


> I am way behind. I have only read to page 16. I have the sideways front finished, and have about 1 1/2" done on the back. Sunday was a down day, as I was just too tired to do anything. Monday my DD and I cleaned house, and today I had some of my cousins over for lunch and sorted thru old family photos. We had a wonderful time,and even managed to put some names on photos that didn't have any! I will keep plugging away. I am learning so much! Thank you, again, Shirley for all you are doing for this workshop!
> 
> As I said when we started - there is no time limit on this workshop. However, I hope we can do another one of our own design so that will likely start once we get some more finished garments. I am so pleased that so many feel it has been worthwhile, as I was very concerned that it would not be successful. I am so happy that it IS successful. I am proud of everyone of you.
> 
> I am very intrigued with the sweater with the tuck at the back and look forward to seeing that one finished
> as well as all the other sweaters. I am proud of you all


I am finally almost half way across on my back. Knitting Circle Retreat is tomorrow, and I will be working on it some more. I think I probably did about 4-5 inches tonight. I WILL be doing another! Bottom up I think I can do from this workshop, but look forward to a top down, and a cardigan!

I am also very intrigued with the sweater with the pleat in the back. I look forward to more photos.


----------



## tami_ohio

Treenya said:


> I have finished the front and back of the bottom up dishcloth T, have joined the shoulder, and added ribbing to the neckline.
> 
> So, although I have seen messages that mention the sleeve treatment, I have not read any details. Do we just do as we please? On a drop sleeve is the sleeve just a straight "pick up stitches and knit to length desired?
> 
> Attached picture of my progress


Looking good! I am also looking forward to the answer.

 I have posted a link with some sleeve information and suggested you all choose your own sleeve. In this sweater I picked up the stitches so that they were a smooth join and I didn't decrease but only went about 3 inches then put a narrow ribbing on the sleeves.

Just make sure you pick up the same number of stitches for each sleeve. You can also make a longer sleeve like I did with the cabled front cotton sweater or you can put whatever type of sleeve you wish in your sweater


----------



## tami_ohio

Designer1234 said:


> I hope to open the PARADE OF DISHCLOTH COTTON ORIGINAL SWEATERS) Next week so as you finish your sweaters, please post a picture here. I want them to be here so that new readers can see what is being accomplished.
> 
> When I open the Parade I will ask you to post a picture or pictures there and discuss your feelings about the experience.
> 
> ===========
> _*I also am wondering if you would post if you are interested in carrying on with another sweater* We can do one of two things.
> 
> #1 - we can design our own sweater , preferably (because I think it is important to get an idea of how sideways knitting helps you to knit for your frame), but it could be a stashbuster, like some of mine, a variety of texture strips, all one color - or the bottom knitted in one pattern, or no pattern.
> 
> #2 - we can use a top down written cardigan pattern. I have two I used but I only follow them generally and recently I have been trying to adjust the neck in a better way than in previous cardigans. I am working on a new idea and I think it just might be my answer. I have always knit them with a top a bit too large to balance but I think I have found a way to adjust my pattern to fit my body better than before. It is ongoing. I have very few sweaters finished that I don't wear. I am not a very fussy knitter and am pretty easy going as long as I like the general appearance and usually I like color and texture in all my work.
> 
> I will post a picture of my sweater in progress in a few minutes . It is the top down and I think I like the new neck I have figured out. I would like your thoughts on it.
> 
> So, I hope you will join me in carrying on this workshop. It will be Part II but will be included with the one we are doing now.
> 
> So ladies let me know if you will join another adventure with me. This time you will make most of the decisions using what we have talk about. I will still be here to make suggestions. I don't suggest you go too far from where you are now. Use the same general idea and do your own thing about the patterns, the stitches and even the gauge. I WOULD however recommend that for your first two or three sweaters you work in something not to far from the yarn you have used. Don't over reach unless you really want to - if you do then go for it!
> 
> Don't be disappointed if you don't have it perfect! Give yourself a chance to learn new things. USE THE SEARCH ENGINE TO FIND ANSWERS FOR WHAT YOU WANT TO DO! I live on google - and I have used so many links.
> 
> I also lurk on pictures to get ideas. I don't mean to copy, I mean to get IDEAS that I can incorporate in one of my sweaters.
> 
> Once in awhile I will make a copy of a sweater with a shape I like, or a stitch I like or a sleeve I like . and if I don't make a copy I write down the link in my notebook but also put it in my KP bookmards with ****** beside any thing I bookmark which will show something I would like to incorporate.
> 
> So carry on with your sweaters, and give me an idea of how many of you want to do another one. I can stay open for weeks if we want. It can be a journey for us all. Up to each of you. Shirley_ PS. I would need at least 5 or 6 (or more I hope) to join us and promise to finish if they possibly can. It is quite time consuming and at least that many sweaters in progress would make it worthwhile for the effort involved. I really hope all of you will give it a chance. You are not being rushed to finish the one you are doing . I will still be able to help you as long as it takes with no one being rushed.


Shirley, I have a very busy summer planned, but would definitely like to continue with the workshop should you decide to continue with it. It will just take me longer to finish any future sweaters I start. But I WILL finish them! I am learning so much from this workshop! I hope to have my back skirt section finished by Monday or Tuesday (appointments on both of those days, as well). I think my yoke on both front and back, and the sleeves, will be in my white.


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## Becoolwraps

Hi Shirley -please count me in for the next workshop. I'm slow but learning a lot here. Many thanks!
Terry


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## tami_ohio

Anniemort said:


> Hi Shirley, I would love try a different sweater after this one, although I am just getting started. My mother died the day you kicked off this workshop, and I have been distracted and not feeling like knitting. But I figured maybe if I knit and prayed for mom at the same time I would be feel more like knitting. So far ,it's working. I used a provisional cast on and have a dozen or so rows done. I hope you keep this workshop open for a while longer (I know it is a lot of work, but so much appreciated) just in case I need help and can't find the answer in what has already been provided.


Sending you my sympathy and prayers.


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## tami_ohio

I have caught up with reading all of the workshop, but will need to read it many more times. I hope to have the back skirt finished in the next few days.


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## run4fittness

tami_ohio said:


> Run4Fitness, I really like what you have done! And I am using the same blue varigated for my bottom and back, but doing it sideways! I also like your explanation of what you did.


Thank you! I like your sideways and want to try that next. Oh, the things I want to try next could fill a hugh library!


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## weteach4ulinda

I would like to try another. This time around the body, I have never done that before. Also would we use cotton or just worsted weight yarn to make a teeny dent in my stash. Linda/

 I am glad to see you found us okay

****************************************************************************************************DESIGNER ERER< INFORMATIONIt looks like there is interest in doing another sweater. We will wait a few says so those who are finished can go ahead and decide what yarn you want to use. I would NOT RECOMMEND that you buy expensive yarn. Personally I would go with the worst weight once again, as it is so much easier to work with and takes less stitches. However you can decide that for yourself. Don't go overboard with a fancy shape or try too much for this next sweater. I would recommend that you use a sideways sweater with a nice yoke at the top.

You can use different colors and make it a stashbuster, but you will then have some ends to work in. there are different ways to do that, some take a bit of time, I like the Russian join as it doesn't show. I usually knit my sideways sweaters so that the color change is on one end one time and the other end the other - this balances out the amount of weaving you have to do when you use a lot of colors. This is something I started to do this past couple of years as I found if I changed colors on the same side all the time it was too bulky. At least my way it is balanced.

Another thing you MUST keep track of is your stitches per row , otherwise you will have an uneven top and /or bottom when you turn it sidways. Remember you will be knitting the yoke on one side and the bottom band on the other .

2 -- if you are going to do a top down cardigan, then I would suggest you get a free simple sweater pattern to get the neck sizes for different cast ons - so that you start with a good fit. I have had a lot of problems trying to get a good fit around my neck and I am finally there. I had to change the style of the neck and use a wider border on the two fronts. I don't like buttons all the way down a sweater so I usually just use one or two. (See the sweater I posted today which is a work in progress)

Soo, think about what you want to do . If you are going to need a top down cardigan pattern Search ravelry for the

Easy top-down raglan here is the link

http://www.laurachau.com/free-patterns/easy-top-down-

It gives you general directions as to how to knit top down by casting on stitches which will be numbered for front,sleeve, back, sleeve and front.

I just started using this pattern - I have used the smallest cast on with one size smaller needles and I am doing okay to increase the sweater without too much trouble.

I am just giving you some ideas to think about before we start another one. So once you post pictures of your sweater then look for a nice stitch pattern that would appeal to you, or decide whether you are going to do a stashbuster , or not. I am not going to post anything more about this until we start. So start thinking about what you might want to do. Don't go too fancy- go for texture and either a stashbuster which takes a lot of planning or better yet a 3 color sweater which you organize yourself 

*****************************************************************************************************


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## Anniemort

Anniemort said:


> Hi Shirley, I would love try a different sweater after this one, although I am just getting started. My mother died the day you kicked off this workshop, and I have been distracted and not feeling like knitting. But I figured maybe if I knit and prayed for mom at the same time I would be feel more like knitting. So far ,it's working. I used a provisional cast on and have a dozen or so rows done. I hope you keep this workshop open for a while longer (I know it is a lot of work, but so much appreciated) just in case I need help and can't find the answer in what has already been provided.
> 
> I am so sorry about your Mother. No need to rush your sweater, I hope it will help you deal with your loss. I found when I lost my son I really found knitting helped me a lot.
> 
> I send you and your family my condolences. Please know that as happens on KP you have a lot of people who care about how you are doing. Shirley


Thank you so much, it is very comforting to know that people care.
Anniemort


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## LUVCRAFTS

Shirley I would be interested in doing another sweater..a top down cardigan? I have a great deal of trouble knitting with 100% cotton yarn. I seem to strain a bit more & find that my wrists are hurting. I'd love to use another yarn. I know you prefer we use something similar..just not that one again. Thanks for everything!


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## JeanJean

hi shirley. even with my broken wrist, i am interested in the cardigan and other sweater altho unable to knit right now. i am telling myself that when my sling comes off and the wrist is healed, knitting will be good exercise as well as therapy --a big smile. also, thanks to you and all the wonderful people sharing your learning. i am learning so much just by reading your comments.


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## AmberSparkles

I don't know if you have counted me. I would love to do your next workshops. My sweater is almost done, just a few more strings to weave in.


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## Designer1234

IT DEFINITELY IS A GO. so finish your sweaters and start thinking about another one. Don't go too far - you can change your first sweater in many ways - by using new textures and colors and also knit the bottom sideways etc. I will be putting some of my cardigans up shortly but I don't want to interfere with the first sweater class.


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## MargegraM

Designer1234 said:


> IT DEFINITELY IS A GO. so finish your sweaters and start thinking about another one. Don't go too far - you can change your first sweater in many ways - by using new textures and colors and also knit the bottom sideways etc. I will be putting some of my cardigans up shortly but I don't want to interfere with the first sweater class.


I would like to be included. I would not like to use cotton though. I'm way behind but It's coming along.

You can choose whatever yarn you wish. I would ask everyone to avoid l00% wool though. There are lots of lovely blends. I will be asking you to design as much of this sweater as you can, by using the information on this workshop so don't take on anything too difficult or different for awhile. Please don't jump into really expensive yarn until you are sure you are ready. This is your first real step into the unknown -- it sounds dramatic but it is the truth.

You can make a sideways knit using nice textured stripes, and if you want flare the skirt part a bit you can do that too. I would like to see some texture in the top. You can use just one color, or more -- and you can decide your sleeves and neck pattern.

I will be working along with you. I just don't want you to try too much until you have had some practice. So think about what you would like to do and look for some worsted, or sport (too fine is harder to deal with . I rarely use anything but worsted but there are some wonderful blends. I don't care for the lighter weights in my sweaters but to each his own.Just make the knitting simple so a worsted would be best in my opinion. Just remember you are learning so don't try to go too fast. You will end up with another sweater! grin.


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## carolky

I will join you for the next one. I hope I can finish this one by then. Hope I don't have to frog any more.


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## Dintoo

Hi Shirley. I would love to join in the next sweater project, however I'll probably just read everything and tackle a sweater later. I've been sick, actually for almost a month, with trachaitis (spelling?).I sound like I have pneumonia, but the problem is all in my throat. I haven't had the energy to knit for a couple of weeks.I'm gradually getting back into it. This is such an informative workshop and I look forward to the next one. Jinny


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## DaylilyDawn

Jinny,
I am praying that you will get better real soon. Being sick is no picnic. I was gradually dying last May but was rushed to hospital when I failed to show up at work,but I recovered enough to go back to work and you will recover to knit again. Take all the time you need to heal, we are not going to go anywhere with out you.


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## Treenya

Hi Shirley,

I would be interested in the sideways knit sweater but may not be able to start right a way. I am planning to do the afghan workshop. Work seems to get in the way often for me. 

I will keep reading as often as possible.

Thanks again Shirley


----------



## Designer1234

There are at least l0 of us - so finish your sweaters and we will start another one. Get your yarn and make sure you make a swatch and figure out your stitches per inch and have it ready. I don't want to start until these are completed.Please! I would ask you to finish this one. Only those who finish their first ones or promise to will be included. Once these are done we will set a date. I think I will wait until a week or so is past. I will have to look at the schedule for the next one. If we finish them soon we can start soon, but if it takes longer it will likely run into the work I have to do to start the other workshop. So finish them up asap but we will definitely do a 2nd one within the next 3 - 3.5 weeks. Read the workshop again. 

By the way we will stay on this one . I will just make it a part two. That way you can use the information as much as you need. 

Treena, glad you are doing the afghan workshop - are you a machine knitter? or will you knit it by hand?


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## DaylilyDawn

I have started my front, the bottom cuff is done, and now I am working on the skirt part. I divided my front stitches in half, took 10 stitches from each side for a 20 stitch panel in the center and am doing a lace pattern called the Staggered Fern Lace stitch pattern. it is a 20 stitch with a 12 row so I repeat it every 12 rows. The reverse is purl except for 4 stitches, 2 at the beginning of the pattern and 2 at the end of the pattern, these 4 stitches are knit on wrong side, purled on right side.


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## craft crazy

I'm in for the 2nd sweater! How do we join the afghan workshop? I must have missed that post.

 the workshop; starts on Mar. 23, however I will open an information topic on the weekend before the class, no later than the 20th. check out the workshops happenings on this thread - just scroll down and it will give you the information for the requirements. Nothing happens until the weekend prior to the workshop. It will be opened on this section. So just watch for the information. If you want to know anything more, pm me


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## Treenya

I am quite new to machine knitting. I have made hats, 2 Sweaters, and other simple practise type pieces. The afghan does not look new as I have done hand manipulated cable before but the join on the stripes looks new to me. I am looking forward to the workshop.

I am finished my sweater for this workshop and will post pics tomorrow. I am off to work now.


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## Conchalea

I want to do the second sweater, but I'm far behind on this dishcloth one due to my motorcycle trip to Florida. I had an exciting ride home, turning different directions to avoid the flooding in Louisiana, and rode long days, so I was too tired to knit at night. I'm safely home, but I work the next 6 days teaching a science camp during spring break, which will greatly interfere with knitting again. I only started the T-bar on my purple sweater last night, on the front. So I'm far from finished. I'll be late starting the second sweater but I really want to do it.


----------



## Jomoyach

Designer1234 said:


> There are at least l0 of us - so finish your sweaters and we will start another one. Get your yarn and make sure you make a swatch and figure out your stitches per inch and have it ready. I don't want to start until these are completed.Please! I would ask you to finish this one. Only those who finish their first ones or promise to will be included. Once these are done we will set a date. I think I will wait until a week or so is past. I will have to look at the schedule for the next one. If we finish them soon we can start soon, but if it takes longer it will likely run into the work I have to do to start the other workshop. So finish them up asap but we will definitely do a 2nd one within the next 3 - 3.5 weeks. Read the workshop again.
> 
> By the way we will stay on this one . I will just make it a part two. That way you can use the information as much as you need.
> 
> Treena, glad you are doing the afghan workshop - are you a machine knitter? or will you knit it by hand?


=========
I'm still working on the back of the dishcloth top, sideways. I'm wondering if I should wait to see what you have to say about attaching the yoke and sleeves for that type sweater when you do the next sweater. When I pick up the stitches for the yoke, I'd like to extend that line by casting on more stitches on both sides to make the sleeves at the same time. Sort of Dolman sleeve like, I guess. 
So my question is: Is this possible? Looked at Dolman sleeve increases, so I'm thinking of casting on 4 stitches, pick up the stitches across the front, cast on 4 stitches at the end of the row. Purl back across the next row. Cast on 4 stitches again , purl across to end, cast on 4 stitches. Purl next row. (This will create the ridge between bottom and yoke.)
I'll continue this increase a few more times then work straight a short way. I want a more cap sleeve. I also thought I would do a boat neckline. 
I guess my other question is : is there a better way to knit the sleeves and yoke together than what I've tried to explain?
Thank you for any help/advice.

 Did you knit the rectangle, if you did you will already have the beginning of the sleeves.

It might work, you could certainly try it. I never thought of doing it that way. it would be an interesting thing to try. I would certainly try it and see. You wouldn't have to add much for a short sleeve sweater. Let me know what you decide. We will have to consider it for the next sweaters.

How about a couple of more finished pictures - Run4fittness? how about your vest? any others? I would like to open it soon. I put it right side up for you. It is lovely!!


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## Frannitty

Here is what I have so far--knit sideways

that is very interesting you are going to have to do a set in sleeve as your yoke is smaller than the width of your top. Did you plan that?

If not , it looks as if you didn't cast on enough stitches at the top to make a rectangle. If this is the shape you wanted, that is great . let me know if you wanted the gathering around the top. I love your colors. Shirley


----------



## Conchalea

Conchalea said:


> I want to do the second sweater, but I'm far behind on this dishcloth one due to my motorcycle trip to Florida. I had an exciting ride home, turning different directions to avoid the flooding in Louisiana, and rode long days, so I was too tired to knit at night. I'm safely home, but I work the next 6 days teaching a science camp during spring break, which will greatly interfere with knitting again. I only started the T-bar on my purple sweater last night, on the front. So I'm far from finished. I'll be late starting the second sweater but I really want to do it.


My progress to this point

 I love the color combination and it is going to be very pretty - carry on, you are doing great.


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## Magicnymph

Well I finished the sweater. I took a little artistic license with the pattern premises. Hope I didn't ruin the concept altogether. But here is the finished sweater.

 I love it - you have used imagination and are an excellent knitter. There is absolutely no other sweater like it anywhere. good job!.


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## DaylilyDawn

Very Nice! looks great on you.


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## Magicnymph

Thank you


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## run4fittness

Nonalehm said:


> Almost finished! I have enjoyed and learned so much in this workshop. I now am thinking if I want to redo the neck ribbing in the twisted rib like the sleeves, will see what I think and feel later today. All my ends are woven in except the neck.
> These are some of the things that I have learned and put to use:
> This sweater fits me and I will wear it with pride.
> Swatches are a knitters friend and really can help make the garment fit.
> With a lot of patients I can do a really good looking seam. (I even counted rows on front and back, to make them the same length)
> I can FROG and not lose interest in the project.
> Probably much more, this is enough for now.
> I am thinking about the next sweater project as I would like to make another sweater that fits.
> Thank you so much for this workshop.


Love your colors and sleeve design! :thumbup:


----------



## run4fittness

Frannitty said:


> Here is what I have so far--knit sideways


Love your colors!


----------



## run4fittness

Conchalea said:


> My progress to this point


:thumbup: great colors.


----------



## run4fittness

Magicnymph said:


> Well I finished the sweater. I took a little artistic license with the pattern premises. Hope I didn't ruin the concept altogether. But here is the finished sweater.


Absolutely love what you have done! Awesome!


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## run4fittness

Well, I finished my little vest. Nothing at all fancy, but it fits! And that is always a good thing!

I have enough dishcloth cotton to make another one, thinking of going sideways on the skirt part and taking it from there
. I love your vest. It is great. I am so glad you did something different - I also like your colors.[/colors]I look forward to seeing all your sweaters.


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## Treenya

Ok, so, here is my finished sweater on me. Not sure if my Dh is a terrible photographer or I just don't like photos of me.

It is lovely and it looks like a good fit. Good job! That is two I need another to open the parade . Once I do I will ask you all to post a picture there (in the topic I open in pictures) and let them know what you think about what we have done here.

Was it done in cotton? very very nice!!I like the look of it and you have done a great job. that wouldn't be that hard to do on a machine either. I used a knitting machine many many years ago an enjoyed doing my own sweater on it.

Good luck with the new [email protected]


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## Treenya

One moe, of the front

 It is lovely and really suits you. Good job!


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## run4fittness

Treenya said:


> One more, of the front


Very pretty!


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## Treenya

Thank you.


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## DaylilyDawn

Very Pretty Treenya. I have just join my second ball of yarn , I am working on my front piece.


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## Treenya

Thank you DaylilyDawn.

I think maybe I will try the sideways knit with a little flair and some extra length next time.

T


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## LUVCRAFTS

Treeyna I really love your sweater . It looks great on you & fits beautifully. Great job!


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## Magicnymph

run4fittness said:


> Absolutely love what you have done! Awesome!


Thank you. Have a lace fetish, but then I think it sort of shows


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## Treenya

Thank you Luvcrafts


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## Designer1234

*WORKSHOP PARADE OF FINISHED WORK IS NOW OPEN

PLEASE go to the following link and post your pictures, and please put a few of your thoughts about what you accomplished. Shirley *

http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-393730-1.html#8825836

* Please put your sweaters in as soon as you finish them but make sure to leave them here too!*.

I hope you will put in all the pictures of your sweaters. It is supposed to be and certainly will be, a 'show' of your finished work. I am very proud of all of you. The sweaters are wonderful and so are the ladies who joined me in this 
difficult, (sometimes) but we did it!

I would ask you to put them in tonight if you can as my sweater is quite lonely there right now. Thanks and as you all finish put in all your pictures. Love each and every one of them.


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## lil rayma

run4fittness said:


> Well, I finished my little vest. Nothing at all fancy, but it fits! And that is always a good thing!
> 
> I have enough dishcloth cotton to make another one, thinking of going sideways on the skirt part and taking it from there
> . I love your vest. It is great. I am so glad you did something different - I also like your colors.[/colors]I look forward to seeing all your sweaters.




Your vest is great and you look fantastic, so bright and happy. You are a very busy crafter. I envy you.


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## Ctown Nana

Jomoyach said:


> =========
> I'm still working on the back of the dishcloth top, sideways. I'm wondering if I should wait to see what you have to say about attaching the yoke and sleeves for that type sweater when you do the next sweater. When I pick up the stitches for the yoke, I'd like to extend that line by casting on more stitches on both sides to make the sleeves at the same time. Sort of Dolman sleeve like, I guess.
> So my question is: Is this possible? Looked at Dolman sleeve increases, so I'm thinking of casting on 4 stitches, pick up the stitches across the front, cast on 4 stitches at the end of the row.
> Purl back across the next row. Cast on 4 stitches again , purl across to end, cast on 4 stitches. Purl next row. (This will create the ridge between bottom and yoke.)
> I'll continue this increase a few more times then work straight a short way. I want a more cap sleeve. I also thought I would do a boat neckline.
> I guess my other question is : is there a better way to knit the sleeves and yoke together than what I've tried to explain?
> Thank you for any help/advice.
> 
> Did you knit the rectangle, if you did you will already have the beginning of the sleeves.
> 
> It might work, you could certainly try it. I never thought of doing it that way. it would be an interesting thing to try. I would certainly try it and see. You wouldn't have to add much for a short sleeve sweater. Let me know what you decide. We will have to consider it for the next sweaters.
> 
> How about a couple of more finished pictures - Run4fittness? how about your vest? any others? I would like to open it soon. I put it right side up for you. It is lovely!!


Wonderful job!!


----------



## Ctown Nana

LUVCRAFTS said:


> Treeyna I really love your sweater . It looks great on you & fits beautifully. Great job!


I so agree....beautiful!!!!


----------



## Ctown Nana

Magicnymph said:


> Well I finished the sweater. I took a little artistic license with the pattern premises. Hope I didn't ruin the concept altogether. But here is the finished sweater.
> 
> I love it - you have used imagination and are an excellent knitter. There is absolutely no other sweater like it anywhere. good job!.


WOW!! Lovely and so unique!


----------



## Ctown Nana

run4fittness said:


> Well, I finished my little vest. Nothing at all fancy, but it fits! And that is always a good thing!
> 
> I have enough dishcloth cotton to make another one, thinking of going sideways on the skirt part and taking it from there
> . I love your vest. It is great. I am so glad you did something different - I also like your colors.[/colors]I look forward to seeing all your sweaters.




Your vest is so fun and looks just wonderful on you!!


----------



## tami_ohio

My computer has a corrupted system file so I will probably be missing for a few days. My computer guru nephew has it backing things up. Hopefully he can do a complete restore on it and I will only have to reinstall a few programs. See you soon!


----------



## PaKnitter

Picking up stitches correctly for neckband. This is a keeper.

http://www.vogueknitting.com/pattern_help/how-to/beyond_the_basics/picking_up_stitches

This is excellent. Thanks so much. I have printed it and it goes in my sweater information file. Thanks so much for posting this link


----------



## KnitnNat

PaKnitter, Thank you for this link and right when I needed it. I am joining back to front today and starting neck. I've learned so very much.


----------



## run4fittness

lil rayma said:


> Your vest is great and you look fantastic, so bright and happy. You are a very busy crafter. I envy you.


Thank you. Just wanted to do something a bit different before I went whole hog. I knew I had enough yarn to do two items so went with the vest first.


----------



## run4fittness

Ctown Nana said:


> Your vest is so fun and looks just wonderful on you!!


Thank you. Just a "Plain Jane" but even hubby likes it. And he usually does not have a lot to say, but this one made him smile!


----------



## Designer1234

*LINKS THAT ARE USEFUL FOR THIS WORKSHOP*

I hope you will all find this information helpful in continuing what you learned here:

TIP-GOODI was just browsing through main and came across this tip. 
I have used this method since I read it a year or so ago.

_If your sleeves are either too long or too short, here is how you fix it. It works really well!

Sewbizgirl Wrote: "The quickest and easiest way to get rid of the excess length is to cut it off, about a row or two longer than you actually want to take out. Then dust off all the little cut particles and take out one or two more rows by unraveling. Then pick the live sts up on your needles (dpns, probably) and knit a new cuff or whatever finishing you want_

Shirley here -This can be done regardless of what direction the sleeves were knit-- on a top down just pick up the live stitches and carry on for the length you wish your sleeve or cuff.

For the cuff up - I put a small band around where I pick up and knit the balance of the cuff down. It just takes a bit of figuring but it can also be used as a 
"design element". It changes the direction of the cuff and can be quite interesting. I don't in this case cut it off in the middle of the cuff that is already there. I go up into the sleeves a few rows and then reverse the way it is knit going down instead of up.

Rarely are sleeves knit this way but IF they are this is quite pretty. 
==========================================================================
PICKING UP STITCHES - GOOD
----------
http://www.vogueknitting.com/pattern_help/how-to/beyond_the_basics/picking_up_stitches
=================
Information links for the workshop regarding different ways to accomplish parts of your sweaters.http://www.thelavenderchair.com/sizing-charts-for-crochet-and-knitting/

http://www.idiotsguides.com/hobbies-and-crafts/knitting/knitting-how-to-take-measurements-for-your-sweater/

http://www.thelavenderchair.com/sizing-charts-for-crochet-and-knitting/
LINKS THAT ARE USEFUL FOR THIS WORKSHOP

I hope you will all find this information helpful in continuing what you learned here:

http://www.idiotsguides.com/hobbies-and-crafts/knitting/knitting-how-to-take-measurements-for-your-sweater/
-------------------------------

Positive ease
http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2013/11/what-is-positive-ease/
=================
CONVERSATIONS ON KP

Our CONVERSATION ABOUT COLOR -
http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-264434-1.html
CONVERSATION ABOUT TEXTURE ; 
http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-267862-1.html
=================

Here is an excellent link giving sizes for all parts of the body. I think it will helpful.

http://www.thelavenderchair.com/sizing-charts-for-crochet-and-knitting/

http://www.idiotsguides.com/hobbies-and-crafts/knitting/knitting-how-to-take-measurements-for-your-sweater/
===================================
--INFORMATION  SHORT ROWS 
-------------------
Here are 3 links to information and instructions as to how to knit short rows:

http://www.purlsoho.com/create/2008/06/18/short-rows/

http://new.knotions.com/techniques/how-to-knit-short-rows/

http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-wrap-and-turn.html
-----
more about color
http://painting.about.com/od/colourtheory/ss/color_theory.htm?utm_content=6131295&utm_med
------
I asked for the name of the stitch I use for my cuffs. here it is and thanks!

Hi Shirley, that is a beautiful cuff, I think it looks like the Twisted Cable Rib Stitch:

http://newstitchaday.com/how-knit-twisted-cable-rib-stitch
==============================
*NECKS*I Just searched how to knit different *necks* for a pullover

Excellent - read them all.

http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2015/01/knitted-necklines-and-collars/
---
Picking up stitches correctly for neckband. This is a keeper.

http://www.ravelry.com/projects/estherkate/how-to---hand-knit---necklines 
---
here are some free long sleeve knitting patterns with the different necks

http://www.free-knitpatterns.com/list.html?cat_id=379
--
The men's pattern round neck (crew neck ) looks like a good one and there is a V neck sweater and they are in worsted.
---===========================

Useful links -received from MarilynKnits with thanks

This one is excellent - I would put this link in your notebook as it gives all sorts of General information.

http://www.jaydainstitches.com/tools.php






 very good U tube information.

=======
HOW DO I CALCULATE THE SIZE OF THE OPENING OF *SLEEVES* FOR A KNITTED SWEATER useful link
http://www.studioknits.com/bookpage68.htm

*NOTE: There is a wealth of information on this link if you go to the bottom of the page and click on the arrow to see the other subjects - it covers much more than sleeves. I have put this link in my notebook, as well as a lot of the links posted above*. 
============
this link has a lot of information.* It is for advanced knitters but the information is worthwhile*. I received it by pm.

http://knittingfever.com/wp-content/kfi_system_files/misc/the_advanced_knitting_architect.pdf

======================================
*Ladies- if you have a link which might help this class please post it in a post and I will put it here. thanks*.

=====================================

I received another great link from MarilynKnits,

Picot Edging. 
http://www.creativeknittingmagazine.com/newsletters.php?mode=article&article_id=5720&key=KDNL&tp=i-H43-6o-IoO-1t7aY5-1o-Dp1x-1c-1t7BSP-1WGWE0


----------



## Magicnymph

Designer1234 said:


> *Magicnymph!* _would you be willing to put instructions here to make the tuck? or a link? I have never done one and I think some of us might want to use that technique in the future. I would appreciate it - you have some very interesting designs going on in that sweater_
> 
> THANKYOU!


When I decided I didn't want a strip to go straight up.... and after I decided on a lace pattern and their placement. I knit all the way around then changed colors before the next repeat of the lace pattern... I used short rows to keep the tuck from getting bulky but that is not really necessary... just knit two more repeats of the lace at the bottom in the color but not at the top and sewed the lace repeats together at the top. Then used the tails to sew the tuck in for a flatter seam (at the top, after kitchenering the two ends of the tube together for the entire skirt) Thankyou. I appreciate it and the others will too!


----------



## KnitnNat

Shirley, Thank you for all the tips in one place. I'm learning so much, beginning to feel like a knitter.
All the sweaters are so pretty!! And each one different!!

I am looking forward to seeing yours soon as well as all the other works in progress * don't forget to put your pictures ON HERE AND ON THE PARADE IN PICTURES*.The link to the parade is as follows:

http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-393730-1.html#8825836


----------



## tami_ohio

Dintoo said:


> Hi Shirley. I would love to join in the next sweater project, however I'll probably just read everything and tackle a sweater later. I've been sick, actually for almost a month, with trachaitis (spelling?).I sound like I have pneumonia, but the problem is all in my throat. I haven't had the energy to knit for a couple of weeks.I'm gradually getting back into it. This is such an informative workshop and I look forward to the next one. Jinny


 I am sorry you have been sick and I hope you are starting to feel better. Just remember the information is all here and will remain on this section permanently. I hope you can join us and I certainly hope you feel much better soon. I had a bad time this past year so I know what it is like to have no energy and to feel rotten. Please take care. Shirley

Sending healing prayers


----------



## tami_ohio

Magicnymph said:


> Well I finished the sweater. I took a little artistic license with the pattern premises. Hope I didn't ruin the concept altogether. But here is the finished sweater.
> 
> I love it - you have used imagination and are an excellent knitter. There is absolutely no other sweater like it anywhere. good job!.


Beautifully done!


----------



## tami_ohio

run4fittness said:


> Well, I finished my little vest. Nothing at all fancy, but it fits! And that is always a good thing!
> 
> I have enough dishcloth cotton to make another one, thinking of going sideways on the skirt part and taking it from there
> . I love your vest. It is great. I am so glad you did something different - I also like your colors.[/colors]I look forward to seeing all your sweaters.




Great job!


----------



## tami_ohio

Treenya said:


> Ok, so, here is my finished sweater on me. Not sure if my Dh is a terrible photographer or I just don't like photos of me.
> 
> It is lovely and it looks like a good fit. Good job! That is two I need another to open the parade . Once I do I will ask you all to post a picture there (in the topic I open in pictures) and let them know what you think about what we have done here.
> 
> Was it done in cotton? very very nice!!I like the look of it and you have done a great job. that wouldn't be that hard to do on a machine either. I used a knitting machine many many years ago an enjoyed doing my own sweater on it.
> 
> Good luck with the new [email protected]


Looks great!


----------



## Conchalea

Treenya said:


> One moe, of the front
> 
> It is lovely and really suits you. Good job!


I love how your sweater looks on you!


----------



## DaylilyDawn

How wide should the rectangle be if I want to change the neckline to a boat neck?

 It would depend on your shape and how long you are from neck to waist I would think. I would knit up to where you want the center of your neck- If I am correct you would go a bit higher with a long, less deep neck so you will have to decide that for yourself.

I would cast off 8 or l0 stitches (cast off 4 or 5 stitches on each side}, then cast off up the neck side of the neck opening up to the place you want your shoulders to meet.{You would do a mirror image of the castoff} I would try casting of on the neck edge every other row or every 3rd row, depending on what you want and more importantly, so that the neck looks right for you. CtNana did one I think so you could check it out.

I always leave both backs and fronts of the shoulders on lives stitches and join them once I am sure that it is not too tall, or too short (the yoke from under arms to the shoulder). This would depend on the amount of bust you have and so the best way that works for me is to do it , then pin the shoulders together very close to the c/off row and see how it fits - it helps if you gather the two underarms together (by the way I always add 3 or 4 stitches on each side of the underarm so when you tie it with yarn leave a little give).

Then try it on - you will then know whether it needs adjustment.

This is the hardest part when you are starting as you have never done this before. But if you write down in your notebook exactly what you did here, and the #of stitches you added under the arm. then the number of inches straight up from the lowest part of the opening , then the width you knitted (first castofs at the bottom of the neck curve(evenly on each side}, then how you cast off the stitches going up to the shoulder. the how wide it was when you join the shoulder from the outside edge (it has to be joined that way so that the sleeves can be added) (this is for the drop sleeve sweater). It is a different method for a different sleeves. I only do the drop sleeve but you can search on how do I calculate a boat neck sweater cast on. You want the same number of stitches for the front and back shoulders or it won't balance. Then once you have it the way you want it, remove the join at the underarm and join the shoulders making sure you are even at the outside edge. (This is so that you can pick up stitches straight across the front and back. Then you can lay the whole thing flat and pick up the stitches for the arms. I hope this helps 

Can any of you give Dawn some information about boat necks? Thanks for the help.[/color]

There is a link one of the girls gave us for knitting necks. I haven't had a chance to look at it closely but it will be in the list of links on the previous page.. I spent the morning setting it up and I think it would be helpful. there is a section about necks. Shirley


----------



## Nonalehm

Finished my sweater. Am very happy with the result. Posted before all that I have learned so will not repeat it. Thanks for the this learning experience. will post picture and hope it turns out right side up.
Nona


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## DaylilyDawn

Looks great!


----------



## tami_ohio

Nonalehm said:


> Finished my sweater. Am very happy with the result. Posted before all that I have learned so will not repeat it. Thanks for the this learning experience. will post picture and hope it turns out right side up.
> Nona


Great job!


----------



## Becoolwraps

Hi everyone - your sweaters are all unique and lovely! I say this in all sincerity. If only I could feel that way about mine. I am machine knitting it and this is my first real project. All was going well (I thought) and I completed the front skirt and the front yoke to the neckline. Great! - NOT. I FOUND AFTER I JOINED THE TEO PIECES THAT I HAD DROPPED A FEW STITCHES AT THE CORNER OF THE VERTICLE PART OF THE T where it joins the yoke in the top corner. I tried to fix it, but ended up making more of a mess and a big hole. I think the only solution is to frog it and start again (which I don't mind doing because I an learning so much, but I'm afraid I will be holding up the workshop as my husband is in the hospital and my trips to see him are cutting into my knitting time. Shirley I promise I will finish it(I tend to be like a dog with a bone and won't give up till it's right). Please don't stall the next workshop waiting for me to finish. I really am enjoying this workshop and greatly admire your willingness to teach us all.
Terry in Abbotsford BC

* Don't worry about that at all. I just realized after writing the post below here that you said you used machine knitting. Why don't you post on that section ans see if anyone has any ideas?*

Oh dear. I am wondering whether you can pick up the stitches and join them to the top and then knit a band and sew it along the join? or possibly do crochet. I hate to see you rip it out. If not, I certainly wouldn't pull out all the stitches, Just remove the bottom from the top. and then fix the stitches on the bottom and try again. You might end up having to redo the yoke but certainly I would try to fix the bottom I have done that and had to separate them, then with a crochet hook fix the place where you lost the stitches by bringing them to the end of the row. Let us know how you do . * Anyone else have any suggestions????*

Another thought. separate them if you can by putting the yoke stitches on a cable or yarn, remove the bottom carefully and try to fix it. That is sooo frustrating for you. Or you can put it together with a needle and try do do some embroidery. Or do what you said. I wish I had more specific ideas to give you!


----------



## LUVCRAFTS

Shirley, I completed my side to side sweater. The only thing left to do is attach the bottom ribbing. I picked up stitches from the bottom of the sweater & knitted. Is this the best way to do it? Looked on google for some help but couldn't find any. Thanks so much.

 That way works well. There are a couple of ways - I sometimes pick up the bottom when I finish the sideways knitting and do it then, and then seam it. I usually do it your way using one size smaller needle. 

That is how I do it, pick them up on whatever side you want. One will be the top and one will be the bottom of the sweater.

*Just make sure that you pick up stitches for the yoke that balance and lie flat with the stitches on the bottom - 
as I mentioned before I pick up 3 then miss a stitch then pick up another 3 and miss a stitch all the way across. I find that seems to work out well. You want your body to be a
rectangle, unless you are doing a different pattern*.

*don't forget to post a picture here and in the parade, ladies*


----------



## Designer1234

Nonalehm said:


> Finished my sweater. Am very happy with the result. Posted before all that I have learned so will not repeat it. Thanks for the this learning experience. will post picture and hope it turns out right side up.
> Nona


-it is okay, I just checked. Great job!It is lovely and another great sweater. good job! I think you will get a lot of wear out of it and I hope you will make another one with us.


----------



## KnitnNat

Shirley, I just posted a pic of my sweater so far, but don't think it ended in the right place. Sorry. Ok now I got it. Just bound off shoulders, now neck and sleeves, right?

 My what pretty colors and they go so well together- I think it is going to be a lovely sweater. Good job!

I am so pleased at what is turning into a very very good workshop. Remember to post your pictures here and also on the Parade. the link to the Parade is under my post as well as on this workshop. It is so nice to see all the sweaters receive such positive reaction. I am very proud of everyone!

 join the shouders lay it flat and pick up stitches making sure they are flat . then knit the arms. If you want arms like my sweater, then only knit 4 inches orthe length you wish. Then put a ribbing on it and join under the arm and along both sides.

Don't make your arm hole too big. It depends on your size and the width of the T whether you will start there. It doesn't matter. Just don't make the opening too big. have fun! you are nearly there!


----------



## Ellisen

I know I am very late, but I'd like to join the class to make this sweater. Thanks.

Just start at the beginning and read the whole thread two or three times including all the conversation. and away you go. I check in 2 or 3 times a day minimum so I hope to see you joining in. Shirley


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## AmberSparkles

Here it is. It is Preaches and Cream, Sea Breeze. I made it a bit too long. I think I was afraid to start the neck. It has a slit on each side. I can't wait to try to do a sideways cadigan. Thank you Shirley. This really helped build my confidence. 

 It is a lovely color and a lovely looking sweater. Make sure you put it in the parade. You did a very good job and I hope it fit the way you hoped. I am glad you are joining us in the next one. Read my post and get your yarn reeady. Decide what kind you are going to knit. It is really lovely[color]


----------



## run4fittness

KnitnNat said:


> Shirley, I just posted a pic of my sweater so far, but don't think it ended in the right place. Sorry. Ok now I got it. Just bound off shoulders, now neck and sleeves, right?


Your colors are beautiful!


----------



## run4fittness

AmberSparkles said:


> Here it is. It is Preaches and Cream, Sea Breeze. I made it a bit too long. I think I was afraid to start the neck. It has a slit on each side. I can't wait to try to do a sideways cadigan. Thank you Shirley. This really helped build my confidence.


Beautiful! Reminds me of mint ice cream! :thumbup:


----------



## Treenya

Wow, I really like this. Your design is awesome!


----------



## AmberSparkles

Thank you this has been so fun.


----------



## Designer1234

I have decided to make another stashbuster tunic as I wear mine so often in this weather in the winter. It is a bit damp but not bitterly cold. It is rainy, but I have an umbrella with me all the time . I love the one I did in blue and I have a combination of browns, beige, green and yellow which I think will make a pretty tunic. I will be making mine along with all of you. I still might change my mind as I am just finishing the body of the top down cardigan and still have the sleeves to do. I think that will be my choice though.

By the way, I don't usually make sideways bottoms to the top down cardigans. I only make them if I am doing the drop sleeve. cardigan or pullover, or at least bottom up of one type or another.

I will think about it but I don't think it would work as well in the top down as you would have to really be on the ball to get the bottom half exactly the right length so fit the already knitted top down.


----------



## crafterwantabe

Several beautiful sweaters. All with their own special design.... great job everyone!!!!!


----------



## Ellisen

Love your turquoise tunic. Looks fabulous on you. This is what I want to make.


----------



## Ellisen

Gorgeous front. Hope mine comes out as lovely as yours.


----------



## Ellisen

Gorgeous sweater. Brava!


----------



## Ellisen

I love your tunic, Shirley. And now, while everyone is finishing their sweaters, I will start mine. I'll be using a DK cotton, side to side bottom. I'll follow along on the next sweater, while I'm knitting this one. Wonderful workshop, great useful information. Thanks.


----------



## mildredL2

To all who have posted your beautiful sweaters, congratulations! Great job, they are all so gorgeous!
So many different styles -- thank you for sharing your creativity.
I have had a delay in my sweater, was travelling and had no knitting time this past week, then had to rip out the first sleeve. But am working on sleeves now, and will post photo as soon as it's finished.


----------



## KnitnNat

Whoops now I have to rip out one sleeve, because they are not the same. How can that be???


----------



## fancyo

I am knitting the T style ,one color , moss stitch T panel. only half way up front. slow knitter. Thank you for all the info.


----------



## Designer1234

As I mentioned, I am going to make myself another stashbuster tunic as I find them so comfortable and warm. 

I have been looking over the other two and I thought you might like to get aclose up of some of the patterns I used. I just put together whatever I wanted to in no special order. 

I did the turquoise tunic first and loved wearing it. I don't like the arms too much as they are rather overwhelming . I then made a blue one and like the way it fits and like the sleeves much more. 

Here are some pictures of the different textures I used in both of them. If you are going to make this sweater, I would suggest you look up different textures either in a library book (knitted stitches) or on one of the stitch programs on the internet. 

Here are some of my groupings.


----------



## tami_ohio

Shirley, I love all of your sweaters! I am learning so much with this workshop. I have about 3 more rows on the back of my sideways sweater. I think I am going to start the yoke on the back first while I think about what I want to do with the neck. I am playing with the idea of a square neck but still have not made up my mind.


----------



## DaylilyDawn

I am working on the yoke of the front piece. I made a center panel using the staggered fern stitch pattern. I did 8 repeats of the pattern stitch. On the yoke I am using a textured stitch pattern.


----------



## rovingspinningyarn

I take it's to late to join?


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## DaylilyDawn

It is not too late , Go to the first page of this thread and read it Designer1234has made it very clear what we are doing, there is no pattern but we are using our own measurements to knit this sweater.


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## Ellisen

I just joined and haven't started yet. It's not too late!!!


----------



## MarilynKnits

I have been procrastinating and drawing pictures. Just started to actually knit this week. I still haven't decided how to do the front of the neck, but I will keep drawing as I do the torso sideways.

Marilyn - Why don't you just start like I do and when the time comes you will know what you want to do. Go up to where you want your neck to start and then you might find it easier. I have at one time or another not known what neck I wanted until both the back up to the shoulders, and the front up to the place where I wanted to start were knitted. I never know what I am going to do until I get there, but that took a few years. For now just do one step at a time. So nice to see you here!

.


----------



## KnitnNat

So when I get this done and it fits, will my skill level move from a beginner?

If you want to carry on this type of knitting, you have a good start as soon as you finish this one and join the next one.

I think that the way things have shown to work out, that you are all on your way. The main thing is to keep on with it.

It will help a lot to make yourself another one , different than the one you made. I have either the front or the back of a new stashbuster nearly finished so I can lead the way.

I am opening the informations thread to the new workshop so we won't be at the top on the section we will be the second topic. Keep on getting your first ones finished if you can. I won't be starting the next one until Thursday so that will give you some time. I have a couple of appointments and the other workshop to open prior to that.

So, finish your sweaters if you can, and post a picture both here and in the link I posted, on this topic.


----------



## run4fittness

Designer1234 said:


> As I mentioned, I am going to make myself another stashbuster tunic as I find them so comfortable and warm.
> 
> I have been looking over the other two and I thought you might like to get aclose up of some of the patterns I used. I just put together whatever I wanted to in no special order.
> 
> I did the turquoise tunic first and loved wearing it. I don't like the arms too much as they are rather overwhelming . I then made a blue one and like the way it fits and like the sleeves much more.
> 
> Here are some pictures of the different textures I used in both of them. If you are going to make this sweater, I would suggest you look up different textures either in a library book (knitted stitches) or on one of the stitch programs on the internet.
> 
> Here are some of my groupings.


Love those blues! :thumbup: :thumbup:

How many stitches did you cast on for the top down? And how did you divide them up for the front, sleeves, back? I have done this so many ways and was wondering if you use a percentage method?

To me I have more stitches on the front than the back for the bands. And then I usually start with 9 to 12 stitches for the sleeves depending on yarn and needle size. Just wanting to compare styles! Your top down is looking great. Like the textures and colors changes.


----------



## tami_ohio

I finally finished my body (sideways), and have picked up stitches for the yoke on the back. I am putting a few rows of garter stitch in at the beginning to break it up a little.
I have been a very bad girl, and just started my notebook! I have it written as far as I have gotten on the sweater. Either I wasn't where I could pick up a notebook, or I would forget to get it. So I had notes on loose printer paper. Good thing I had posted my swatch count, and how I wanted to start it, here, or it would have been lost, and I would have had to start over. I probably won't get much knitting done tomorrow, hopefully will get some done on Sunday. And then house to clean and preparations made for Easter. I really want to get the back yoke done this week, though. Still thinking about a square neck. Hmmmm, or maybe I will lay it against a tank top that I like the scooped neck on...... The less I have up near my neck in the summer heat and humidity, the better.

And maybe the next one won't have any sleeves, either! Not that I needed to buy more yarn, but JoAnn's had it on sale, so I bought 2 big skeins of soft white to make another one. And of course sock yarn was on sale, and I just couldn't resist! Who can pass up sock yarn at @ less than $10 for a pair of socks! I Can't remember if it was $2.99 or $3.99 a 50g skein.


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## mildredL2

Finally finished my dishcloth cotton sweater-- have learned lots of new things, and of course did some things that I will do differently on the next one.
Thank you Shirley, for all your help, instructions, encouragement, and inspiration, loved this workshop!

 It is great! your colors are lovely. Thanks for puttting it in the parade too. I hope you are joining us for the 2nd one. read the posts I wrote about what to do - we will be starting later on this week. Take care and it is a great job!


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## DaylilyDawn

Looks great! I hope mine will be finished this week since I am on Spring break for the school year. I go back to work on the 28th of this month.


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## KnitnNat

Your sweater is very pretty MildredL2. I'm trying to sew the side seams now and can't get it right. HELP


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## mildredL2

KnitnNat said:


> Your sweater is very pretty MildredL2. I'm trying to sew the side seams now and can't get it right. HELP


Thank you! I have always had trouble with the seaming, but saw a suggestion on KP and tried it, and was pretty happy with it, it's called the Faster, Flatter Mattress Stitch -- here is the link:


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## Ctown Nana

mildredL2 said:


> Finally finished my dishcloth cotton sweater-- have learned lots of new things, and of course did some things that I will do differently on the next one.
> Thank you Shirley, for all your help, instructions, encouragement, and inspiration, loved this workshop!


Just beautiful!! You did a wonderful job!


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## lupines

I have enjoyed seeing everyone's sweaters. They are all so different that it's hard to believe they are from the same workshop. I'm still working on the back of mine - not much knitting time this past week - and I still need to decide on the neckline, though I'll probably go with a round one similar to Designer's original.


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## run4fittness

mildredL2 said:


> Finally finished my dishcloth cotton sweater-- have learned lots of new things, and of course did some things that I will do differently on the next one.
> Thank you Shirley, for all your help, instructions, encouragement, and inspiration, loved this workshop!


What pretty colors! :thumbup:


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## tami_ohio

mildredL2 said:


> Finally finished my dishcloth cotton sweater-- have learned lots of new things, and of course did some things that I will do differently on the next one.
> Thank you Shirley, for all your help, instructions, encouragement, and inspiration, loved this workshop!


Looks Great!


----------



## AKnitWit

I am still plugging along. I am impressed with what you all have done.


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## ladydog

AKnitWit said:


> I am still plugging along. I am impressed with what you all have done.


same here, front finished and back almost to underarm.... not finding knit-time
Sharon


----------



## Conchalea

All the posted sweaters look great! Since my bike trip to Florida I haven't had time or energy to knit. I worked 6 days straight (to pay for my trip) & 3 of those were 10- hour days! Plus on 2 of those days the camp kids were making an electrical system so I had to strip wire for them. Each kid had at least 4 wire ends so that's 19 X 4 = 76 ends. Due to wear on them a few needed another set so that's a lot of ends & my poor carpal-tunnel plagued hands have been too sore to knit much at all. Spring break is over for us so I can now rest my hands. I hope to get a lot more done this week.


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## Ellisen

Beautiful sweater, Mildred.


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## weteach4ulinda

I have finished my sweater. I guess I do not know how to post a picture here. 
Any directions you can give me? Linda

 Here it is - I had no problem I will post it in the Parade as well. I love the color combination and you did a really good job!


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## AmberSparkles

Do you see this tiny print that says reply. Click that and see if that helps.


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## mildredL2

weteach4ulinda said:


> I have finished my sweater. I guess I do not know how to post a picture here.
> Any directions you can give me? Linda


I learned how to post pictures from answers that were posted on this KP thread:
http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-386988-1.html


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## Designer1234

weteach4ulinda said:


> I have finished my sweater. I guess I do not know how to post a picture here.
> Any directions you can give me? Linda


if you want to email me with the picture, I will put it on. pm me and I will send my email addy.

However it isn't that difficult

click on choose file. making sure it opens on the desktop. (if it doesn't there is a little place at the top where you can type desktop. click on choose. Look down until you see the number on the picture. click on send. It should arrive on your post. It sometimes takes a long time. Give it up to a full minute - that would depend on how your camera is set.

It sounds confusing but it isn't really.

As I said, pm me and I will send my email address and you can then email me the picture and I will attach it in both the workshop and the Parade.

JJ - is there an easier way to do this onto KP , I have always done it from my desk top. Anyone else who does it differently?


----------



## weteach4ulinda

Here is my sweater all finished and it fits. I will make another and make it a little longer and the neck as little larger. But now I know I can do it I will. I want to make the one that goes around the body first. Linda


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## AKnitWit

I finally finished. I am a bit embarrassed to post picture. I have seen some very nice sweaters. This is my first time making a garment of any kind so lots of firsts for me.

Thanks Shirley for your help and patience.

 It is wonderful! You have made your FIRST garment and it is a beautiful sweater!! I am so proud that we have a first in the group. This has been a wonderful experience for me and I hope for all of you.

I hope you will put this sweater and all the other ones that finish whether it is now, or next week or in a month or more in the Parade. It is a sweater to be proud of, not embarrassed. Don't let yourself feel that way. We all are doing a good job. Yours is just as beautiful as all the rest and you have never made a sweater at all before. be Proud!


----------



## mildredL2

AKnitWit said:


> I finally finished. I am a bit embarrassed to post picture. I have seen some very nice sweaters. This is my first time making a garment of any kind so lots of firsts for me.
> 
> Thanks Shirley for your help and patience.


Looks great to me! :thumbup:


----------



## lupines

AKnitWit said:


> I finally finished. I am a bit embarrassed to post picture. I have seen some very nice sweaters. This is my first time making a garment of any kind so lots of firsts for me.
> 
> Thanks Shirley for your help and patience.


Another great sweater - I especially like the blue!


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## Ctown Nana

AKnitWit said:


> I finally finished. I am a bit embarrassed to post picture. I have seen some very nice sweaters. This is my first time making a garment of any kind so lots of firsts for me.
> 
> Thanks Shirley for your help and patience.


Oh AKnitWit you have done a wonderful sweater---just beautiful and love your colorway!! You should be very proud!!!


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## MarilynKnits

Love your color choices. That is a very sweet sweater and you should be proud of what a nice job you did.



AKnitWit said:


> I finally finished. I am a bit embarrassed to post picture. I have seen some very nice sweaters. This is my first time making a garment of any kind so lots of firsts for me.
> 
> Thanks Shirley for your help and patience.


----------



## carolky

I really like your sweater. You've done a beautiful job in the stitching and the way you played the colors. Wish I had chosen my colors better. I've only finished the front and started the back, so we'll see.

 I look forward to seeing each one of them so I will be watching for yours. Just relax and do it when you can, but DON'T any of you quit! they are so great and you should all try to finish yours. I want to see them all!


----------



## run4fittness

AKnitWit said:


> I finally finished. I am a bit embarrassed to post picture. I have seen some very nice sweaters. This is my first time making a garment of any kind so lots of firsts for me.
> 
> Thanks Shirley for your help and patience.


You did a wonderful job! Absolutely no reason to be embarrassed! :thumbup:


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## lil rayma

You must have the word embarrassed, confused with the word proud. Wonderful sweater. It is very hard to believe that this is your first garment. Keep up the good work.

Edited for spelling.


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## AKnitWit

All the kind words are much appreciated. You have lifted my spirits.


----------



## KnitnNat

AKnitWit, that is a beautiful sweater. All the different textures and colors are perfect.

Designer here, I meant to say I loved the color and the knitting is even and well done. Absolutely wonderful
AKnitWit!!! mean that!


----------



## Jessica-Jean

Conchalea said:


> All the posted sweaters look great! Since my bike trip to Florida I haven't had time or energy to knit. I worked 6 days straight (to pay for my trip) & 3 of those were 10- hour days! Plus on 2 of those days the *camp kids* were making an electrical system so I had to strip wire for them. Each kid had at least 4 wire ends so that's 19 X 4 = 76 ends. Due to wear on them a few needed another set so that's a lot of ends & my poor carpal-tunnel plagued hands have been too sore to knit much at all. Spring break is over for us so I can now rest my hands. I hope to get a lot more done this week.


"Camp kids"?? It seems to me, that if they're old enough to make an electrical system, they're also old enough to strip whatever wires need stripping. No? My mother had me re-wiring lamps and alarm-clocks at age 8 - and I had to solder all the inside connections.


----------



## Jessica-Jean

Designer1234 said:


> if you want to email me with the picture, I will put it on. pm me and I will send my email addy.
> 
> However it isn't that difficult
> 
> click on choose file. making sure it opens on the desktop. (if it doesn't there is a little place at the top where you can type desktop. click on choose. Look down until you see the number on the picture. click on send. It should arrive on your post. It sometimes takes a long time. Give it up to a full minute - that would depend on how your camera is set.
> 
> It sounds confusing but it isn't really.
> 
> As I said, pm me and I will send my email address and you can then email me the picture and I will attach it in both the workshop and the Parade.
> 
> JJ - is there an easier way to do this onto KP , I have always done it from my desk top. Anyone else who does it differently?


I know absolutely nothing about 'devices' other than an ordinary computer. Admin liked my how-to well enough to add it to his directions: http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-1-1.html#64


----------



## Jessica-Jean

AKnitWit said:


> I finally finished. I am a bit embarrassed to post picture. I have seen some very nice sweaters. This is my first time making a garment of any kind so lots of firsts for me.
> 
> Thanks Shirley for your help and patience.
> 
> It is wonderful! You have made your FIRST garment and it is a beautiful sweater!! I am so proud that we have a first in the group. This has been a wonderful experience for me and I hope for all of you.
> 
> I hope you will put this sweater and all the other ones that finish whether it is now, or next week or in a month or more in the Parade. It is a sweater to be proud of, not embarrassed. Don't let yourself feel that way. We all are doing a good job. Yours is just as beautiful as all the rest and you have never made a sweater at all before. be Proud!


It's a beautiful sweater! Brava!!


----------



## crafterwantabe

You all have made beautiful sweaters. Great job!!!!


----------



## Kateydid

All the sweaters that have been posted here are fantastic! I love all the color combinations and stitch choices.


----------



## Designer1234

weteach4ulinda! I posted your picture on the last page here and will post it now on the Parade of finished sweaters

Thanks for sending me the picture. I had no problem. Shirley


----------



## Jessica-Jean

Conchalea said:


> Oh no. Kids today might try something new for 30 seconds & then give up. We had ages 5 or 6-12 in the room. The other teacher & I didn't even want to let the kids try. (Plus we only had 1 set of wire strippers.) It seems if it's not a video game they are easily frustrated these days. We even had a dad caution us to watch his daughter closely as we crossed the street to the playground! It made me want to tell him "sir, we encourage the kids to play chicken with the cars in the street & challenge them to try & get across before the car can hit them!" Yikes. We call these 'helicopter parents' cause they're always hovering to make sure the kids encounter no trouble or difficulties, EVER.


(Where's that puking emoticon when I need it???!!!)

I am thankful I'm not a parent now. 
I am thankful my mother kept repeating, "You'll never learn any younger!", and told me the steps to perform to learn to *do*! Ride a bike. Splice a wire or rope. Fry, boil, or scramble an egg. 
I feel sorry for today's children and how smothered they are. 
Thankfully, I probably won't live until they're the ones running things.


----------



## Conchalea

Jessica-Jean said:


> (Where's that puking emoticon when I need it???!!!)
> 
> I am thankful I'm not a parent now.
> I am thankful my mother kept repeating, "You'll never learn any younger!", and told me the steps to perform to learn to *do*! Ride a bike. Splice a wire or rope. Fry, boil, or scramble an egg.
> I feel sorry for today's children and how smothered they are.
> Thankfully, I probably won't live until they're the ones running things.


Yes, I also feel sorry for them, & the future when they are in charge. Parents try to make everything so smooth for them that they have no idea how to keep trying on something they don't understand immediately. Lots of frustration for them & those trying to teach them.


----------



## tami_ohio

weteach4ulinda said:


> I have finished my sweater. I guess I do not know how to post a picture here.
> Any directions you can give me? Linda
> 
> Here it is - I had no problem I will post it in the Parade as well. I love the color combination and you did a really good job!


Pretty sweater on a pretty lady!


----------



## tami_ohio

AKnitWit said:


> I finally finished. I am a bit embarrassed to post picture. I have seen some very nice sweaters. This is my first time making a garment of any kind so lots of firsts for me.
> 
> Thanks Shirley for your help and patience.
> 
> It is wonderful! You have made your FIRST garment and it is a beautiful sweater!! I am so proud that we have a first in the group. This has been a wonderful experience for me and I hope for all of you.
> 
> I hope you will put this sweater and all the other ones that finish whether it is now, or next week or in a month or more in the Parade. It is a sweater to be proud of, not embarrassed. Don't let yourself feel that way. We all are doing a good job. Yours is just as beautiful as all the rest and you have never made a sweater at all before. be Proud!


You have done a wonderful job! There is nothing to be embarrassed about.


----------



## Ellisen

Looks perfect to me, too.


----------



## Ellisen

Lovely sweater, and it looks so comfortable. Bravo!


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## grannyfabulous4

I have the sweater mostly done, working on the neck, BUT I have injured my hand and can't knit right now. Hoping it will feel better soon and I can get it finished. Want to do another one with everyone. Think I would like to try a top down cardigan.


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## Designer1234

*Knitnknat* Here is the picture you posted on the other thread. Ladies, there are no new topics started on the Workshop section. so please always post pictures to either the workshop you are working on or in the Parade of whatever class you have taken. Thanks very much.

Here is a lovely sweater- I was watching for it as I love the colors. If you have any questions just post them here on the workshop. I think it is doing very very well. Shirley


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## KnitnNat

Thank you , I had posted my sweater in the workshop, but didn't know how to move it from the other section, got it there by mistake. 
My sweater is almost done , I'm on the bottom ribbing now. 
Maybe a picture tomorrow.


----------



## tami_ohio

Designer1234 said:


> *Knitnknat* Here is the picture you posted on the other thread. Ladies, there are no new topics started on the Workshop section. so please always post pictures to either the workshop you are working on or in the Parade of whatever class you have taken. Thanks very much.
> 
> Here is a lovely sweater- I was watching for it as I love the colors. If you have any questions just post them here on the workshop. I think it is doing very very well. Shirley


Beautifully done!


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## KnitnNat

All finished!! Fits and I will wear it. Enjoyed doing this and I learned so very much. How to knit a sweater without a pattern, calculate No. of stitches by measurement and guage, make neat chain selvage, sew seams and more.
As an added bonas, my sister is doing the workshop, enjoyed her help, comparing notes etc. even though we are miles apart. Her sweater is entirely different.
Thank you so very much , Shirley

I love it!! I like the colors and the way you used them. That is a lovely sweater! good job!


----------



## mildredL2

KnitnNat said:


> All finished!! Fits and I will wear it. Enjoyed doing this and I learned so very much. How to knit a sweater without a pattern, calculate No. of stitches by measurement and guage, make neat chain selvage, sew seams and more.
> As an added bonas, my sister is doing the workshop, enjoyed her help, comparing notes etc. even though we are miles apart. Her sweater is entirely different.
> Thank you so very much , Shirley
> 
> I love it!! I like the colors and the way you used them. That is a lovely sweater! good job!


Wow, it's beautiful!


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## DaylilyDawn

I had to start over on mine, I checked my guage on the front, using the size 7 needles I was using, and it was wrong, I had 4 stitches to the inch, and it looked like it would wrap around me. So I am starting over., will use smaller needle that I got the 5.5 gauge with the yarn I am using .


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## Kateydid

I'm so very happy with this completed sweater. It fits well and to think that there was no pattern to go by, just swatches and measurements. Shirley you are a wonderful Inspiration. Now that I can do this, I'll be experimenting with different stitches as I've seen in some of the others. Yes there are some tweaks that I would also do, but getting over the hurdle of knitting with no pattern is a big deal for me.

 I think it is beautiful. I am a color person too and I would wear a lot of these sweaters in a heart beat. Make sure you post a picture with your comments on the Parade link posted on a page here


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## run4fittness

Kateydid said:


> I'm so very happy with this completed sweater. It fits well and to think that there was no pattern to go by, just swatches and measurements. Shirley you are a wonderful Inspiration. Now that I can do this, I'll be experimenting with different stitches as I've seen in some of the others. Yes there are some tweaks that I would also do, but getting over the hurdle of knitting with no pattern is a big deal for me.


Beautiful colors! Like a lovely sun rise!


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## carolky

I love your sweater. Your knitting is so nice and your colors are great. Reminds me of sherbet...that's why I'm chunky.


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## KnitnNat

Kateydid, I like your sweater, you carried out the concept of he T very well. I will do that on the next one.


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## LUVCRAFTS

Katydid I love your sweater. You must be so proud of your accomplishment! Did you knit it sideways or bottom up?


----------



## Kateydid

LUVCRAFTS said:


> Katydid I love your sweater. You must be so proud of your accomplishment! Did you knit it sideways or bottom up?


Thank you. I did a bottom up.


----------



## mildredL2

Beautiful sweater, Kateydid!


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## judybug52

Katydid......love your sweater! Great job


----------



## PaKnitter

I have a question for Designer 1234.

Do you wash your sweater by hand and lay it flat to dry or machine wash and machine dry?

 I rarely, if ever wash any of my sweater in the washing machine and certainly might just air dry it in the dryer (no heat).

I usually lie them flat while damp _(sometimes I have put them on the rinse cycle in the washer, and let it spin for a few minutes, then take it out and lay it flat. Some I pat down and some I pin down and let dry.

When I finish making a sweater I pin the sweater down (I don't use wool) and spray it lightly-- if it is a pullover, I do the back first let it dry and then turn it over and lightly spray the front after pinning and let it dry then I fold it.

 I rarely ever hand my sweaters up on hangers. They keep their shape and last much longer. My sweaters never wear out. I take very good care of them. Too much work in them, not to.


----------



## Ctown Nana

KnitnNat said:


> Kateydid, I like your sweater, you carried out the concept of he T very well. I will do that on the next one.


Me too!!!


----------



## Ctown Nana

KnitnNat said:


> All finished!! Fits and I will wear it. Enjoyed doing this and I learned so very much. How to knit a sweater without a pattern, calculate No. of stitches by measurement and guage, make neat chain selvage, sew seams and more.
> As an added bonas, my sister is doing the workshop, enjoyed her help, comparing notes etc. even though we are miles apart. Her sweater is entirely different.
> Thank you so very much , Shirley
> 
> I love it!! I like the colors and the way you used them. That is a lovely sweater! good job!


Wonderful job---love it!


----------



## arlenecc

I try to keep my chest protected so the T is knit with both yarns to get the extra thickness. Because it would be heavy I did 2 T's on the back to balance the weight. Wearing as a vest at this moment and have not decided to do sleeves as yet. Body is stocking knit and collar is garter.
Am very happy with the Handi-craft yarn as it never occurred to me to use it for anything other than dishcloths. Thank you, Designer for this workshop.
Now to find the parade link.

 Here it is:

http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-393730-1.html#8825836

Very nice. I think you did a great job. You colors are lovely and I like what you did. Let us know whether you decide to put short sleeves in it. It would look nice . Actually 3/4 sleeves would look very good with those colors and that sweater. good job


----------



## mildredL2

arlenecc said:


> I try to keep my chest protected so the T is knit with both yarns to get the extra thickness. Because it would be heavy I did 2 T's on the back to balance the weight. Wearing as a vest at this moment and have not decided to do sleeves as yet. Body is stocking knit and collar is garter.
> Am very happy with the Handi-craft yarn as it never occurred to me to use it for anything other than dishcloths. Thank you, Designer for this workshop.
> Now to find the parade link.


Very beautiful work, I love your yarn.


----------



## Jacklou

Shirley, how did you do your first sweater neckline? I like the look of that.

 I am not sure which one you mean.


----------



## run4fittness

Arlenecc, your vest is very lovely! :thumbup:


----------



## arlenecc

run4fittness said:


> Arlenecc, your vest is very lovely! :thumbup:


Thank You!


----------



## Jessica-Jean

arlenecc said:


> I try to keep my chest protected so the T is knit with both yarns to get the extra thickness. Because it would be heavy I did 2 T's on the back to balance the weight. Wearing as a vest at this moment and have not decided to do sleeves as yet. Body is stocking knit and collar is garter.
> Am very happy with the Handi-craft yarn as it never occurred to me to use it for anything other than dishcloths. Thank you, Designer for this workshop.
> Now to find the parade link.


I love it!!! :thumbup:


----------



## arlenecc

Jessica-Jean said:


> I love it!!! :thumbup:


thank you JJ


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## ccmjwb

All the sweaters and vests so far have been great! The ideas that everyone came up with have been enlightening and fun to see. Really like the double vertical stripes on the back Arlene, and the different textures everyone chose. Surprising how 1class has produced such a variety! * You should be proud Designer!*

 DESIGNER HERE! I AM ECSTATIC!!! This was a hard class to grasp and I feel so strongly about doing my own thing. I am so proud of all of you for hanging in there and reading my notes over and over until they made sense.

I am also tickled at those who changed the pattern to their own ideas! That is what this whole class is about! I appreciate it that you all took a difficult idea and did it anyway. Many people have told me they were 'afraid' to try on their own. EVERYONE can do it if they can knit and take one step at a time. Every single sweater is beautiful, and I am soooo PROUD that all over North America and possibly other parts of the world I could run into someone wearing a self made, self designed sweater. We are not a large group.

I KNOW we have some absolutely wonderful designers on KP, and I admire them completely. They do what you now do all the time. I hope that there are people who take my class who will love it that much that they will design for others. I don't because I am too much of a maverick and I love seeing something become a garment that I didn't plan. I admire their discipline and the work they do. They work very hhard designing which is the fun part. The hard part is putting that specific pattern into a written pattern. I know that most of them get just as much if not more pleasure than I do. That is what is so wonderful about people, everyone is different. There is no wrong way - to knit or do so many other things. Sharing our ideas and skills is such a basic part of this forum.

So, now you can take a pattern from anywhere and you can make it to fit. 
you. _ You do your measurements - read the pattern and see what size you are in the pattern. If you are close you can 
use it using their stitch count. If you are like me and it never 
will fit your shape, then what you have learned here will
allow you to adjust a written pattern (not CHANGE IT) but adjust it to fit you _- We will go into my methods for changing sizes from one part of your body to another like I have to do, in the second workshop.

As my Aussie friend Eve says - Good onya!!

Carry on and we will start another one on Monday! It is Easter this weekend and I know many will be spending time in Church and with friends and family. 

Have a lovely Easter all of you. I will be home and looking in here . See you Monday.!


----------



## Designer1234

Designer1234 said:


> _I posted this message in the Parade in error. Here it is again_.
> 
> I am so pleased with all the lovely sweaters. We will start a second one in the same workshop (so that you can read the instructions and the questions and answers again.
> 
> We will work on sideways knit (hopefully you will do a stashbuster, and if someone really wants I will help them make a top down. If they want to do a top down they will have to have a pattern available for the neck cast on..
> 
> I recommend a free pattern on the workshop. We just need you to have the basic pattern and put texture etc. in. I sometimes do a swatch but some bodies don't do well with top down.
> 
> I can also teach how to do the bottom up cardigan in a stashbuster design.
> 
> like the one we did and put cables, or patterns in it . I used the same basic pattern for the top down for years and no one realized it because they were all so different. I will open it over the weekend. So decide what you are wanting to do.
> 
> For a stashbuster you can figure out the yarn needed in a couple of ways.
> 
> I put a lot of acrylic colors in a basket and just pick one up each time I want to change the color.
> 
> Other Stashbusters I use colors that go well together. right now I am doing a green, brown, beige stashbuster with orange and red and olive green thin stripes. It is going to be quite pretty . I will post a picture of the back or front (not sure what it is yet, here.
> 
> There is no limit to the number of different sweaters.
> 
> I have even mixed sport weight and worsted weight and that can be done if the light yarn is used in a stretchy pattern. I wouldn't recommend it for this one BUT it does work on rare occasions.
> 
> So decide what you are going to do and get your yarn and needles ready. If you have done a worsted swatch with size 5mm (US8) you can use the same stitches per inch. the stastbuster doesn't need an exact stitch count as we are doing narrow strips sideways with different yarns and different patterns. I will post some tomorrow.
> 
> I know some of you are going to do a tunic like the one pictures below -it won't be different except you will make the sideways knit strips longer.
> The pictures below show what you can do with two basic patterns. One is my stashbuster (most of them) the other is a basic top down sweater from a pattern.


----------



## Karoy

Hi Shirley - I made your original coat of many colors and it turned out great, but I didn't make the dishcloth sweater this time because I get lost in all the comments and extra info. I'm sure its a very easy pattern but I guess I'm the type that likes the very basic directions. #1 - do this, #2 - do this, etc. Thanks for helping many to make this sweater, but my pea brain just can't handle it. I hope no one takes offense to my post, I've slammed myself enough as it is. You do such a great job.

 There is no way I wouldn't understand your frustration! That was one reason I took so long to teach this class, but it was asked so many times and when I reopened the workshops I decided to go for it! The problem is - there is NO pattern or specific instructions as the idea was for everyone to do their own thing. I am sure there are others who have had a problem doing this workshop but are uneasy about saying what is definitely a fact. I think a different heading or name for the class might have helped -. No apology is necessary, and I don't want you to feel that it is anyway because you are a 'pea brain' :wink:

I am so glad you liked the 'coat of many colors. Actually, when it came right down to it, the yellow sweater (dishcloth- is exactly the same except that it is just two colors and in most cases was knit from the bottom up.  I ended up teaching the concept which is how I knit. As it seemed to make sense to a lot of the girls.

Anyway I appreciate very much that you posted this as I am quite certain that others feel the same way, and I apologize for not being so specific. It seemed to take on a life of its own. So please don't worry at all about it. Shirley


----------



## Designer1234

leslee said:


> Thanks for the compliment Ctown Nana, I look forward to seeing everyone elses interpretation of Shirleys directions. Re the provisional cast on ,if you look at my sweater you will see that is what I have used as I hadn`t decided how the bottom would look. That will be the last part done. Cheers Leslee


Leslie and others - let me know if any of you are having problems finishing up your sweaters. I would ask that you all post the finished projects on the workshop as well as in the parade. Thanks .


----------



## Designer1234

LADIES: I am still editing the workshop and trying to reduce the information so that it is more straightforward and easier to read. I am, however leaving my feelings about knitting here with the information as many of you have requested 
*********************************************


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## KnitnNat

I've come to realize that I learned another important thing from this workshop. The ribbing on the bottom is a little looser than I like, since I picked up and knitted it last, I can frog it and knit with fewer stitches. A benefit of doing the bottom last, am I right? Thanks again, meggie


----------



## lil rayma

KnitnNat said:


> I've come to realize that I learned another important thing from this workshop. The ribbing on the bottom is a little looser than I like, since I picked up and knitted it last, I can frog it and knit with fewer stitches. A benefit of doing the bottom last, am I right? Thanks again, meggie


Just a thought, but if you use smaller needles and you should get a tighter rib. Good luck.


----------



## KnitnNat

lil rayma said:


> Just a thought, but if you use smaller needles and you should get a tighter rib. Good luck.


Thank you lil rayma. Now I've learned another way.

Shirley, all those sweaters are so pretty, I want you to pick my yarn, love your colors.

Don't be afraid -grin. I love colors 
. 
SUGGESTION FOR\YOU ALL IF YOU ARE CONCERNED ABOUT COLORS go and read the *Conversation about color*, in the workshops on this section, then read *Conversation about texture* . Both are wonderful discussions and I think two of the most helpful workshops we have held

*Workshops #58 and #59 on the workshop list (see my link below my posts)*


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## tami_ohio

Happy Easter everyone!


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## LUVCRAFTS

Hi Shirley, For the second workshop I'm not sure I understand. Are we to chose whether we want a tunic or cardigan, top down or sideways? Do we also chose our own yarn? Again, many, many thanks.

 Yes, I would recommend a SIDEWAYS CARDIGAN orOR PULLOVER. If you have the yarn, and are interested, we will do a stashbuster. YOu also can do a variety of 3 or 4 colors and one 'zip' (bright contrasting)color. Or go for a full stashbuster.

OR

A SIDEWAYS TUNIC - which can be made in one color (not as much fun but certainly doable. Or as a stashbuster which I usually do. OR 3 or 4 basic colors with one 'bright, different color' to give the sweater some zing. It can be done with narrow strips of these colors. (I like the variety and rarely do the sideways knit with very few colors. This is where you have to decide for yourselves.

OR (last choice because you will use a pattern)A TOP DOWN CARDIGANYou will need to get a basic pattern and certainly work the top part from it. I find them hard to fit for me and usually used my small neck and adjusted them, but they are difficult - It would be easier if you have a normal size or nearly normal shape body.

_I think you would be better, if you already can follow a pattern, to practice making your own sideways knit or bottom up knit, in a cardigan. Which would give you another sweater you designed your self, however._ 
-------
(I will certainly help you with the top down but I would honestly like to see you all do one completely on your own, whatever style you like. Then once you are out on your own,a stashbuster but using your own measurements, in a top down pattern. They are not that difficult and you will have no problem once this class is over. It is up to each of you what you decide


----------



## Designer1234

KnitnNat said:


> I've come to realize that I learned another important thing from this workshop. The ribbing on the bottom is a little looser than I like, since I picked up and knitted it last, I can frog it and knit with fewer stitches. A benefit of doing the bottom last, am I right? Thanks again, meggie


 Yes, I alway do my bottom band last, as I found the sleeves and neck can pull the sweater up. It works well for me. I always use at least one size smaller needles for the bands (ribbing) both at the neck and bottom band and cuffs.

Depending on what type of sweater you knit- if you knit from the bottom up, you would cast on the same number of stitches and USE A SMALLER SIZE NEEDLE for the ribbing. OR 
cast on a very few less stitches but a smaller size needle makes the band look good and keeps the sweater balanced.

Then I cast off with the larger needles so that it isn't too tight and gives, easily. I would try that.

 I would probably do the band again. You have to have a bit more 'give' as it has to stretch a bit when you put the sweater on. Using the same #or two or three less and one size smaller needles. However, if it lies flat now you might be able to tighten it up with a row or two of crochet. Up to you[/u]

On some occasions I have crochet my band. I have done that quite often if it is a 'fabric' that is loose and not too stable, some yarns are inclined to feel too soft and there doesn't seem to be the body to them that is needed. If you crochet in single crochet rows you can stabilize them. I would make sure there are enough stitches to fit over your head and shoulders and frame though and lie flat. It just gives a bit more body to your bottom band.

*************************************

-
As far as the neck and wrists (cuffs) are concerned, that is where I have to adjust as I am very small boned and have a small neck and head. So I have to do the individually. My necks wouldn't fit the average person and I do a small size cuff (usually 32 stitches (multiple of 4 as I do the Twisted cable rib stitch for all my cuffs).

I am wondering whether I can work that stitch into my neck and think I will try it. My hardest part is to not get my neck too large, just large enough to fit over my head. Some times I use 3 different needler sizes with plenty of stitches and reduce the neck stitches each time I change to a smaller needle. This is a difficult way to do it so I am not recommending it to anyone.


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## MarilynKnits

I have been using Jeny Staiman's stretchy bind off on necks. They may look a tad ruffly off the body, but they lay nicely on and stretch so as not to hurt your ears when sweaters go on or off.



Designer1234 said:


> Yes, I alway do my bottom band last, as I found the sleeves and neck can pull the sweater up. It works well for me. I always use at least one size smaller needles for the bands (ribbing) both at the neck and bottom band and cuffs.
> 
> Depending on what type of sweater you knit- if you knit from the bottom up, you would cast on the same number of stitches and USE A SMALLER SIZE NEEDLE for the ribbing. OR
> cast on a very few less stitches but a smaller size needle makes the band look good and keeps the sweater balanced.
> 
> Then I cast off with the larger needles so that it isn't too tight and gives, easily. I would try that.
> 
> I would probably do the band again. You have to have a bit more 'give' as it has to stretch a bit when you put the sweater on. Using the same #or two or three less and one size smaller needles. However, if it lies flat now you might be able to tighten it up with a row or two of crochet. Up to you[/u]
> 
> On some occasions I have crochet my band. I have done that quite often if it is a 'fabric' that is loose and not too stable, some yarns are inclined to feel too soft and there doesn't seem to be the body to them that is needed. If you crochet in single crochet rows you can stabilize them. I would make sure there are enough stitches to fit over your head and shoulders and frame though and lie flat. It just gives a bit more body to your bottom band.
> 
> *************************************
> 
> -


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## MargegraM

Just checking in. I'm coming along and have the front almost done on not one but two different sweaters. One is bottom up and the other is a side-wise/textured version. The plain acrylic is just a stocking stitch three panel style and I went back and frogged the first white cotton one and changed the whole thing. It now has the side-wise blue variegated skirt with a white panel and I like it a lot better. Working with cotton is growing on me and I'm having fun with it. The cotton skirt also hides a lot of my stitching problems with maintaining a consistent tension due to my greenhorn status. Also, I can knit on straights which I can manage better than with the circular(at least for the skirt.) I had to use the circular with the acrylic straight up sweater from the beginning, and other than using a 9 inch circular for socks, I haven't used circulars before. It shows.

I started the yoke on the blue textured front and finally had to do a crochet chain over-stitch to control the stretchy fabric. I then picked up my stitches from to that chain to begin the yoke.
I have the back skirt done but I may put it aside and knit one with a little texture to balance the front.

My husband came in while I was measuring and thinking what to do next, when he asked me if I was making this up as I went along to which I answered, "Yep, pretty much!"

I'm ready to begin the neck. yay! I had to come and re-read the information here on the workshop site.

I'm also wondering if my sweater might be too big as I have been losing weight and am down two sizes. I will not frog if it might be so ..I will just go visiting my friend with a serger! lol
I reason this is a learning experience and I will have a couple of sweaters to wear about the house and yard if they might look a tad funky...

My third sweater or tunic will be a whole lot easier!!!!!! It has been fun.

Thanks, Shirley This is a great class. I love looking at all the wonderful
finished sweaters and have learned from everyone. I know you didn't have a do-two-at-a-time concept for this workshop...it just happened!

Marge

I am delighted that you are making two at once. I have been known to do that too. I think you are one who will continue to try different ideas and I actually think that there are a fairly large number who understand, and will continue making their own sweaters and I feel very happy about that. I am glad that I got up the courage to teach this class. I have been thinking about it for some time.

You are welcome to continue with both of them on the 'Conversation' which I will open tomorrow night -We are going to my sons for Easter dinner, and I am not sure how late it will be. As I am out on Vancouver Island, most of you will be sleeping unless I get time before we leave. I want to remind you all to post pictures here and definitely in the Parade as well.

When we get to the Conversation you can start your second sweater. And those are are not finished are welcome to come over too. This has been a very intriguing and wonderful experience for me.

Talk to you all tomorrow. I want to spend some time with some ideas to put forward and hopefully some information you might find helpful. This workshop will remain open so that you can refer to it. I will also be moving some of the pictures and some of the quotes and my posts there as well, if we need to discuss them. Talk to you all tomorrow! Shirley


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## Designer1234

*The Conversation and 2nd part of this workshop is now open.

http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-396124-1.html*


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## DaylilyDawn

I have finished my front and I have now started on the stockinette of section of the back. When I am finished with it I will put up a picture of it. The 2nd sweater will have to wait till I can get some more yarn for it.


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## Designer1234

*IMPORTANT* Here is a breakdown that I received from Lupines, which gives you help making the Dishcloth Cotton Sweater. She kindly condensed it so that only the sweater information is there. You are welcome to use this Document as a base for making your sweater.  It is at the bottom of this post. I appreciate her doing this for us.] I also added the PDF version so all of you should be able to open it. Shirley
=====================================


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## carolky

I've not finished my first sweater; front and back finished and grafted at shoulder. Ready for neck. I'm going to try a rolled design (new for me). 
I'm getting excited to start the second. I'm using dishcloth cotton again. I've ordered 10 different colors (mostly blue, some greens, one violet and one multi). My mind is going too fast to process. I will do a tunic length, side to side 'skirt' alternating colors up to the bust. The yoke section will be ad lib (don't know which of the blue yet) but I want a V-neck and cap sleeves or very short. I would like the 'skirt' to be an A-line which will involve short rows for which I will need a lot of advice. A lot of the 'skirt' strips will be a simple open stitch (k2tog, yo) because, even tho it is cotton, it is a little heavy; and I have overheating problems due to a blood disorder. (Don't like heavy, tight, or long sleeves.)
Anyway, any and suggestions will be gratefully received. Consider I am short and round. 

 It sounds great. when you get to the second workshop we can discuss any thing you are unsure about. I am hoping that others will join in.


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## Dlclose

Hi Shirley,
I'd like to do the short sleeved pullover. I have a solid color and a coordinated variegated color to use. I have read most of the pages of information and am forming a vision in my mind. I have a project to finish before I begin, though. How do I receive the current information? According to one message I read, there are 5 pages already. Please include me.
Thanks,
Donna

*you are welcome to make the sweater on the 2nd sections as some of the students are making a second sweater. However, read this workshop thoroughly, then read the first couple of pages on the following link which is the 
Conversation and where the girls are making their second sweaters.

http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-396124-1.html*


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## Jacklou

Shirley, here is my sweater finally finished.

P1060158.JPG

Designer here! It looks beautiful on you and certainly is your color! I just love it. I think your fit looks perfect. Excellent job. I hope you are joining us for the second one.

Please put it in the parade if you haven't already. I really love those colors. Might make a blue one myself!!


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## DaylilyDawn

It looks good on Jacklou. I am using a solid color for my sweaterit is called sagebrush. My front is finished and I am about 3/4 finished on the back


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## lupines

Jacklou said:


> Shirley, here is my sweater finally finished.
> 
> P1060158.JPG


Nice sweater - loves the color and nice fit.

Is that a set in sleeve?


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## Ctown Nana

Jacklou said:


> Shirley, here is my sweater finally finished.
> 
> P1060158.JPG


Lovely job Jacklou---your sweater looks great on you!!


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## tami_ohio

Jacklou said:


> Shirley, here is my sweater finally finished.
> 
> P1060158.JPG


Jacklou, you did a great job on your sweater!

Mine is still in progress. I have not had much time or energy to knit the last 2 weeks. I am on the yoke on the back. I am doing the back first, as I still have not decided on what neck line I want on the front.


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## Jacklou

Yes the sleeve is set in. The yoke wasn't as long as I would have wanted. Thank you all for the comments.



lupines said:


> Nice sweater - loves the color and nice fit.
> 
> Is that a set in sleeve?


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## mildredL2

Jacklou said:


> Shirley, here is my sweater finally finished.
> 
> P1060158.JPG


Beautiful sweater, Jacklou! I love your colors and fits so beautifully!


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## MarilynKnits

Jacklou, your sweater is beautiful and looks great on you.

I am almost done knitting around on mine, 3" to go then I can graft the back and start on my yoke. I am using cream and a toast, cream, and sage variegated combination. I just hope I can be as successful as you!


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## Chesneys

AKnitWit said:


> I finally finished. I am a bit embarrassed to post picture. I have seen some very nice sweaters. This is my first time making a garment of any kind so lots of firsts for me.
> 
> Thanks Shirley for your help and patience.
> 
> It is wonderful! You have made your FIRST garment and it is a beautiful sweater!! I am so proud that we have a first in the group. This has been a wonderful experience for me and I hope for all of you.
> 
> I hope you will put this sweater and all the other ones that finish whether it is now, or next week or in a month or more in the Parade. It is a sweater to be proud of, not embarrassed. Don't let yourself feel that way. We all are doing a good job. Yours is just as beautiful as all the rest and you have never made a sweater at all before. be Proud!


I think this is one of my favorites. I love all the detailing you designed in.


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## Chesneys

Kateydid said:


> I'm so very happy with this completed sweater. It fits well and to think that there was no pattern to go by, just swatches and measurements. Shirley you are a wonderful Inspiration. Now that I can do this, I'll be experimenting with different stitches as I've seen in some of the others. Yes there are some tweaks that I would also do, but getting over the hurdle of knitting with no pattern is a big deal for me.
> 
> I think it is beautiful. I am a color person too and I would wear a lot of these sweaters in a heart beat. Make sure you post a picture with your comments on the Parade link posted on a page here


Oh yum. Great color choices!


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## dwidget

i finished mine a while ago but i needed someone to take a picture of it. thanks so much for such a great workshop.


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## LUVCRAFTS

Love your sweater, the way it looks on you and fits so nicely. May I ask which yarn you used? Can't wait to see what your next one will look like!


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## aquaciser1

Just starting shaping my neck. First time ever for me. Fingers crossed&#128522;


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## Caesarteaser

aquaciser1 said:


> Just starting shaping my neck. First time ever for me. Fingers crossed😊


Me too. Have done all the calculations and am ready to start binding off for the neckline tomorrow. This is fun.


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## weteach4ulinda

I just finished the side to side bottom of the cardigan sweater. It took me so long because there is so much of me to get around. Oh well now just the top and crocheting around the whole thing. I so wish that I could use a raglan top but the sweaters that are of comparable make up are either not cardigan or the numbers do not match up. Also the sleeves are not going to fit. Linda


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## Ellisen

Yes, yes, yes. I would love to make a cardigan. My PC died, so I haven't been able to post photos. I have almost the entire sideways bottom of the shirt finished. It will be a tunic. Will post when my PC returns. And I will follow along with the cardi. Thank you so much for this wonderful workshop, Shirley.


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## Dlclose

Conchalea said:


> I am doing the T sweater, bottom up. I had about 2inches done but it looked smal so I measured. It was too small as my tension changed from my swatch. So I ripped it out, finding in the process that my method of joining the yarns at the center section really worked as it was a pain to untwist them. So I cast on more stitches & now am about 3 inches in.
> 
> It really is going to be a beautiful sweater. I am starting to get excited.


Love your colors!


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## Conchalea

Dlclose said:


> Love your colors!


Thanks! I finished it & posted a picture on the parade.


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## Dlclose

Deb Hjelseth said:


> I am happy with everything so far. As with most of us, life gets in the way and I'm not as far along as I'd like. My center "t" section is the peaches and cream stripe color way so I am alternating balls every two rows so there won't be as big a change when I end one ball. This will be interesting when I get up to the underarm. Learning, searching, etc. The biggest issue right now is keeping the yarns straight. I was asked why two cirs. I'm not sure how I would do it otherwise, my center yarn would be at the wrong place if I didn't.
> 
> I bought two plastic baskets from Superstore (Canadian store), and I put one in each basket and just lift the basket and move it either over or under each time. It works quite well. I think your sweater is going to be lovely! It is so nice to see them starting to appear and as I said this is basically a simple sweater so it isn't going to be that hard once we get the front neck part done. then knit the back without the bar down the center of the back, just across the T bar of the T so it will knit up faster. Personally as I mentioned, I don't use much shaping on the back. so once you have both the fronts dont, with the neck cast off. put it in the center of the back and make sure the edges end at the same place on the shouilders. then sew the shoulder seems together.
> 
> Then you can decide how deep you will need your sleeve hole. In some cases it will mean your side seam might need to be up into the yoke as the sleeve top is at the shoulders and is knit from there. my arms are quite small so I don't have to make a very big hole. Those with bigger arms just make the hole deep enough your your arms to be comfortable. Then there are two ways to do your sleeves.
> 
> cast them on with the same width on each side of the shoulder seam, lying flat. I usually do it that way for short sleeves as it is faster. However if you are doing another sweater with longer sleeves, you can do them with magic loop or circulars. It is up to you. Knit them the length you want using the T yarn and put a narrow ribbing on the bottom. Then sew up the sides and across the bottom of the sleeve. When I made my first one I basted the sides together and was able to tell I had left too much for the arm hole so I knitted the sleeves across the should seam and down each side until the measurement was a good length for my arm. sew up the seams (side and underarm). and if you have not done the bottom border, do it now. (I like to do it last incase I have some adjustments in the body but I have done it with the border knitted as well.


I love how this is coming out! Love the middle section!


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## Dlclose

AKnitWit said:


> Completed front. I chose a V neck. Not sure if I will be adding a band on neck as yet. Most likely depends on fit. This is my first garment and it is all new. Thanks Shirley for your clear instructions and patience.
> 
> I was just reading all the posts and I looked at your sweater in progress once again. I really like your pattern process and the original way you put the different textures.
> 
> I think it is beautifully balanced, the colors work well together and it is going to be a wonderful sweater. I like the way you have done the yoke-
> 
> The whole idea of this workshop is for people to take my ideas and put their ideas in instead, as far as texture, color, sizing - everythng. You are doing that and your top is going to be outstanding. I hope if we do decide to do another sweater you will carry on with us. I hope everyone will do that as well. It will give you all a chance to branch out a bit and to make another one of a kind.
> ====================================
> 
> I have been thinking about carrying on and if we do you will have a choice of a top down sweater or a sideways sweater or a combination - or whatever your imagination comes up with. I am amazed at how you all are showing that you 'get it' - It is so great for me as I have worried about teaching this for a long time and kept putting it off.
> 
> For those who are not as quick, remember all of us are different. I don't care if it takes you two months - I do hope however, that you will keep on and finish this project . When you wear it it will remind you that you did this here, and that doors are now open that weren't open before for your knitting projects and pleasure.
> 
> This idea doesn't just work for sweaters, You can have a ball making your own scarfs, by trying out knitting them sideways and knitting unusual patterns or combinations of patterns. There are so many things to try and you should try them one project at a time.


i

Nice touch with the blue cable in the T part of the front! I really like it! Very feminine!


----------



## Dlclose

Magicnymph said:


> Well I finished the sweater. I took a little artistic license with the pattern premises. Hope I didn't ruin the concept altogether. But here is the finished sweater.
> 
> I love it - you have used imagination and are an excellent knitter. There is absolutely no other sweater like it anywhere. good job!.


OH lovely!! Really nice job!


----------



## Dlclose

weteach4ulinda said:


> I have finished my sweater. I guess I do not know how to post a picture here.
> Any directions you can give me? Linda
> 
> Here it is - I had no problem I will post it in the Parade as well. I love the color combination and you did a really good job!


OH Linda, this is beautiful! Love your colors and the fit is perfect!


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## Designer1234

This is conhalea's sweater - I am very impressed. they are all so nice!


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## damemary

Lovely combo. Bravo.



Designer1234 said:


> [color=blue=This is conhalea's sweater - I am very impressed. they are all so nice![/color]


----------



## Conchalea

Designer1234 said:


> his is conhalea's sweater - I am very impressed. they are all so nice


Thank you! The pooling on the yoke looks purposeful but was a happy accident. I enjoyed the process.

Those happy accidents are part of my life and anyone who designs their own - use them and make them your own.

I have done that many times and a few things done on these sweaters have given me new ideas, including your neck. It is so much fun!!


----------



## carolky

Shirley,
I'm still plugging away. Had some setbacks. It turned out waaay bigger than I intended, but that's OK. I like wearing loose fitting clothing. I did a bad job picking up stitches around the neck, but finally resolved that with some creative stitching while working in the ends. I wanted it longer, so I picked the finished bottom and knit down and extra 5 inches on the back. Couldn't do it that easily on the front because of the lace pattern stitch on the front panel. So I knitted a piece from bottom up and grafted it on when finished. I'm not great at grafting, but it mostly looks OK. Now I just have to weave in the loose ends. I think I'll finesse the sides to be slits. I'll post pictures tomorrow after church....if I can fit that huge sweater in the camera lens. lol
Meantime, to stop myself from burning the whole thing, I started knitting the side-to-side skirt of the next sweater. I'll also take a pic of that WIP


----------



## Ellisen

I'm still working on my tunic, at the top now, starting to bind off for the front neck. Hope to finish it this week and post a photo. Lots of purple!


----------



## carolky

Well, here it is, still with unwoven ends hanging out the bottom. The sleeves are longer than I wanted, but can't be changed without steeking (and I'm not up to that challenge).
The pics aren't the greatest, but DH did his best. I think it will be better when washed and gently blocked. The first picture shows the true color, the others are a bit blue.
I want an honest opinion on where I added the bottom length. I knit the back extension from the live stitches to the new bottom. I knit the front from a new bottom up, then grafted it to the main part. Is it really obvious, and should I frog it and try again?
I'm still working on the side-to-side skirt for the next one. Didn't get a pic of that yet. Only Tuesday, but it's been a long week so far with having a tire blow with a car full of groceries. That too is past.


----------



## mildredL2

Beautiful sweater, carolky! I love the side slits and your yarn too.

Sorry for the delay in acknowledging your sweater- It is great! I hope you put it in the parade. very nice indeed.


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## carolky

Thank you, MildredL2


----------



## KnitnNat

Carolky, You did a great job , I would not do another thing but work in the ends and enjoy. The colors are really nice too. That is amazing, how you added to the length.


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## MarilynKnits

I think once the ends are woven in and the sweater is blocked you will have a real winner. I love the decorative stitch at the joining of the yoke to the torso part. It is a lovely and innovative touch.

Don't you just love the freedom this workshop has given us to be creative? Although we follow a common protocol, there is the leeway to incorporate our individual choices of style and color.


----------



## carolky

Thank you KnitnNat and MarilynKnits for your encouraging critique. This has been a fun but educational journey. I've been knitting for about 40 years off and on; self-taught or just working it out. The links that have been posted here have shown me the right way to do things I thought I knew. I've got to tell you, though, that the grafting I just learned officially is the way I did it back in the 80's but didn't know what I was doing. lol


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## Ellisen

Love it! Keep it, please. Looks fabulous. Great job.


----------



## grannyfabulous4

FINALLY finished my first sweater. It is too large, so maybe if I wet it and put it in the dryer it will shrink???

 I hope that works but to be honest I doubt it. However in the future,

I would be very careful to TRUST your calculations. I knit my first few sweaters too large as they just looked too small before I had them finished so added and inch or two.

OR. you need to do another swatch and knit like you do on your daily work. Sometimes there is a difference. I had a problem learning to TRUST my calclations. If you make the sides even an inch bigger than your calculations, your sweater will not fit, especally if you have already added your positive ease at the beginning.

I think your sweaters are great and I am sorry they are too large. Possibly you might make them a winter sweater rather than a summer one by changing the sleeves to long sleeve instead of summer sleeves?.


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## Conchalea

grannyfabulous4 said:


> FINALLY finished my first sweater. It is too large, so maybe if I wet it and put it in the dryer it will shrink???


Gorgeous! I don't know if it will shrink but it looks great!


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## carolky

grannyfabulous4 said:


> FINALLY finished my first sweater. It is too large, so maybe if I wet it and put it in the dryer it will shrink???


You've done a beautiful job; I especially like the way you finished the sleeves. Love the colors you chose, reminds me of a tropical ocean.


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## AmberSparkles

Your sweater is great. Good luck on shrinking it. Maybe we could wash our sweaters together, and get the right size. I'd like mine a little larger. I need to lose my muffin top. So, I guess you could eat more.....  joking. I did have some dish cloths that did get a little smaller. The best of luck.


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## grannyfabulous4

AmberSparkles said:


> Your sweater is great. Good luck on shrinking it. Maybe we could wash our sweaters together, and get the right size. I'd like mine a little larger. I need to lose my muffin top. So, I guess you could eat more.....  joking. I did have some dish cloths that did get a little smaller. The best of luck.


Trust me Amber, I don't need to eat more!! lol I am really happy with it otherwise. Maybe you could get your wet and stretch it out and let it dry.


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## grannyfabulous4

carolky said:


> You've done a beautiful job; I especially like the way you finished the sleeves. Love the colors you chose, reminds me of a tropical ocean.


Thank you, I really liked the colors together when I went to buy yarn and agree it looks like a tropical ocean scene.


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## grannyfabulous4

Conchalea said:


> Gorgeous! I don't know if it will shrink but it looks great!


Thank you so much. I am going to give it a try. There are so many beautiful sweaters on this workshop, I just want to make one of each color!

I do have a friend that I think might fit in the sweater if I can't shrink it.


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## KnitnNat

Grannyfabulous4, It is beautiful. Try washing and drying, and let us know. Of course your friend would love it.


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## AmberSparkles

I might just try that. That would be easier than losing weight. . I really love the feel of the cotton.


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## Ellisen

Beautiful. Nice job. I think cotton will definitely shrink in the dryer, but usually it shrinks in length especially. Good luck with it. Sweater looks wonderful.


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## carolky

Ellisen said:


> Beautiful. Nice job. I think cotton will definitely shrink in the dryer, but usually it shrinks in length especially. Good luck with it. Sweater looks wonderful.


The length might be a good thing. I made a top with cotton yarn (not dishcloth cotton but same gauge) couple years ago. When it put it on it was just below my hip; hot humid day. A few hours later it was mid thigh.


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## Designer1234

carolky said:


> Thank you KnitnNat and MarilynKnits for your encouraging critique. This has been a fun but educational journey. I've been knitting for about 40 years off and on; self-taught or just working it out. The links that have been posted here have shown me the right way to do things I thought I knew. I've got to tell you, though, that the grafting I just learned officially is the way I did it back in the 80's but didn't know what I was doing. lol


]That is what I found too carolky - I have been doing 'my own thing' for years and then suddenly find out there is a name for some of the things. So a lot of the known designs make sense. I am so pleased with this workshop.


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## Designer1234

*This is a repeat suggestion for those who ended up with a too large sweater*.

finished my first sweater. It is too large, so maybe if I wet it and put it in the dryer it will shrink???
***************************
I hope that works but to be honest I doubt it. However in the future,

I would be very careful to TRUST your calculations. I knit my first few sweaters too large as they just looked too small before I had them finished so added and inch or two.

OR. you need to do another swatch and knit like you do on your daily work. Sometimes there is a difference. I had a problem learning to TRUST my calclations. If you make the sides even an inch bigger than your calculations, your sweater will not fit, especally if you have already added your positive ease at the beginning.

I think your sweaters are great and I am sorry they are too large. Possibly you might make them a winter sweater rather than a summer one by changing the sleeves to long sleeve instead of summer sleeves? Another thought is give it to someone and make yourself another. As you know they are not difficult..


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## Designer1234

*This workshop is now closed - however all the posts will remain here for the use of KP members. It will be added to the list of workshops which will remain permanently on KP for the information of KP members.

Thanks to all of you! See you in the 2nd workshop which is still open!* go to the following link

http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-396124-1.html


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