# CLOSED #3-Designer (teacher) -Knitting a sweater our measurements,no pattern- closed



## Designer1234

Make a sweater by
calculating our stitches per in and designing a sweater without a pattern.

*Conversation about how to measure ourselves and design our own sweaters with no pattern*. 
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Welcome. I am starting off with a basic idea of what each different type of sweater consists of. I hope it is helpful. So away we go!!! Shirley

*LINK TO DISHCLOTH SWEATER WORKSHOP*.
http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-390800-1.html

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*LINKS  IMPORTANT*.
ON PAGE 24 of the workshop are links to help you with all sorts of different things when you make your sweaters. Please go there and copy these links and glue them into your notebook. They are really useful!

Go to Page one for the Measurement chart. Measure yourself and put the figures in your notebook. It also gives the basic instructions as to do your calculations================================================

*If you need information as to how to do a swatch it will be on the first page of the workshop*There is also the information for calculating your stitches per inch
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*HOW TO KNIT THE BOTTOM OF A SWEATER SIDEWAYS AND WHAT YOU GAIN BY DOING THAT*.

_I have been talking about a process I use for my sweaters, which is great for my shape, and will work well for each and every one of us if we decide we want to use it.
More and more knitters are doing this and I started years ago as it works so well for me._

First of all, why would we bother?

Answer: first of all it works exceptionally well for some shapes.

_It is easier to knit and control the size, it is easier to make narrow areas of interesting stitches which will be slimming when it is turned with the sides across the top and bottom.

Texture is so much fun to do, but we don't want it to add pounds to the look of our sweater. Narrow areas of texture work extremely well.  better than wide strips_.
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To do the T shape to do the bottom section. You will start at one side and knit each section - you will be knitting across the 'BOTTOM' which will actually be the sides. So if you add the center of the T you would just add the rows after you finish the first color, then when your T is wide enough (your choice in inches) you start knitting with the original main color. You have your center piece knitted with no necessity of having to have two balls, and once you get the right size you will turn it on end, (once you have cast off. 
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I shape this section of the sweater so that for people like me by adding short rows to give the bottom more size and slowly reduce as I knit up the sides to my waist I make room for my hips and reduce for my waist up.
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The other side which will become the yoke. you will see that if the top part is turned on end, with the wider side at the bottom it will give a flare at the bottom which works well for people with my shape. The adjustments are always worked on the SIDES OF THE back although they are knitted as if one end is wider than the other

***It also works very well, if I start the sweater the size I want for the bottom, then I would slowly decrease the rows to reduce the number of stitches at the yoke. This would depend on what you are trying to accomplish and that would depend on your shape.

Then look at the second part of #4 - the bottom piece has been turned up with the narrower part at the top. 
***************
We will pick up our stitches from the top and cast on the yoke stitches. I pick up 3 stitches and miss one, across and I make sure it lies flat. I often put a nice ribbing across the join and that will be your choice.
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When you look at the pictures of my sweaters please note the one with the yoke (tunic) picture shows a different way of doing the top. I often join the bottom and the yoke with a 4 row rib. If anyone is interested in what the stitches are for my favorite ribs I will happily post them for you. (the rib can also be added if you are knitting the rectangle style (not the side knitted style.)

Then you could do your yoke with a pattern or without, and work up to the bottom of the neck on the front. I always do the front first, put both sides on a stitch holder and then do the back. NOTE: It is also important that you know that this technique can be used for ALL shapes. I really think it is different and it is useful, and to me it makes sense. I am not suggesting everyone should use this method for all sweaters.

ALL my sweaters use one of two patterns , actually 3 patterns.

# 1-BOTTOM UP RECTANGLE  PULLOVER 
#2 " "  - CARDIGAN

#3 sideways bottom portion of the sweater for both #1 and #2 -attaching all of them to a yoke and knitting up to the neck etc.

To knit the bottom sideways  here is how you do it.
YOU MEASURE FROM UNDER YOUR ARM TO THE TOP OF THE BOTTOM BAND .and then calculate by multiplying the # of stitches per stitches per inch on your swatch. You will have fewer stitches to cast on but it makes your designing much easier. It works well for the T shape too. If you are going to do a tunic, decide where you want the top of the band to be  mine ends just around the knee. Then I add my band. If I want a very wide band I reduce the length of the sideways knitting a bit.

NOTE: _you will find that there are less caston stitches when you are knitting sideways. However it gives you the opportunity to add texture and color which will show up vertically and is much more attractive and slimming than having the texture done horizontally_.

In this one you can do whatever design you wish and it works out very well for the T pattern as you don't have to split your main color into two balls
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A TOP DOWN CARDIGAN (I dont do my pullovers as I like the others better. I use a basic cardigan pattern - got it free on ravelry. Search one you like.
Then I add color and texture, or use one color and textures. See my sweater pictures .

I dont teach the top down sweater but will help anyone who seems to have difficulty with the idea of how it works. The most difficult part is calculating the neck and where to join under the arms for the sleeves. 
You will need the {shoulder next to the neck, to under arm measurement} as that is where your increases will occur on the front and the back.

The measurements are very important here if you want your sweater to fit- I have to change from medium to large just below the waist so I usually have my tops too large, on purpose so that my bottom area is covered. I also rarely button them all the way down. I put one or two at the top.

I don't use a flare for the top down pattern as it is one piece all around .
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INFORMATION SHORT ROWS 
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Here are 3 links to information and instructions as to how to knit short rows:

http://www.purlsoho.com/create/2008/06/18/short-rows/

http://new.knotions.com/techniques/how-to-knit-short-rows/

http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-wrap-and-turn.html
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Dont do them too suddenly and only one every l0 rows or so at the most. It doesnt take a lot to give you a flare. Make sure you stagger where your short rows end as it will make a shelf if you dont. 
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*Here is is a document kindly organized by Lupines. It will give yuou the workshop information on the Cotton Dishcloth sweater- she kindly consolidated this information for us all. Thanks very much Lupines. I am posting both a dockx and a Pdf copy*.


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## pacer

I would love to follow this workshop. I have a friend who is always trying to do her own adjustments to fit the body the knit is going on. Shirley...You are a wonderful blessing in my life. I think of you often.

Thank you - I am happy to see you join us. You might want to check out the workshop link at the top of the page and read it once or twice and then come back and join in the conversation!


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## run4fittness

I am along for the ride also! Want to see how our techniques differ. And always willing to learn something new!

Thanks Shirley!

Good to see you!

What type of sweater are you going to make? There is a bit of info in the pdf download (same as posted here) and you can still use the workshop for referral. I hope that everyone will make a choice and do completely their own thing. We hope to discuss them as we go along.


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## Conchalea

Shirley, I'm still working on my T-band sweater but will follow this conversation as I keep on with the first. I'm very interested in the construction of this second sweater plus I want to add in novelty yarns for texture contrast. I bought a couple of books (used) by Laura Bryant on using novelty yarns & texture in knits. I'm very excited to start this second adventure!

That sounds very interesting - have you done anything like this in the past? Have you ever used novelty yarns? they can be added to the stashbuster sweater, but not too many but they sure can make a 'different' look. Good for you. Please join in the conversation anytime,


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## Designer1234

Designer1234 said:


> I started another tunic and have it done up to where I join the shoulders. It is my basic tunic stashbuster and is in a moss green, brown,cream and beige colorways and I am using three different zip colors to give it some life.


I am including a picture showing How I weave in the ends when using worsted yarn. I cut the ends yarns about 4 inches, and in some cases if they are very loose at the edge I do a half knot - then I take both of the color yarn threads and split them into two. then I weave in all four making sure I weave one color into two different directions. It makes a much flatter appearance at the edge. I do this with all my threads. It takes a bit of time but I do it 2 or 3 times as I am knitting and it does make a flat edge. I have done the Russian join if I join colors in the center, but I rarely do that. See picture of my join process

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I had posted a download and it will be here in the next few days. Shirley
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## Designer1234

*DISCUSSION QUESTIONS (or anything else that interests you).*

Do you make a lot of sweaters? what kind usually. Are you interested in
lace, or ganseys, or do you have a favorite pattern?
--
Do you have any suggestions for the new designers who joined us and finished their first non pattern sweater? We would love to hear ideas from all of you.
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Are you a new knitter? if you took the class what did you like best about it? 
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FOR THOSE WHO HAVE DONE A LOT OF KNITTING:

Have you ever designed your own sweater using your swatch, stitch number instead of a pattern? Do you have any suggestions that might be of interest to the ladies here?
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Do you do anything interesting on the necks of your sweaters? what kind of changes do you make in your patterns when you are knitting if any?
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Do you have a problem shape, like I do, and how do you knit for a shape different than the basic shape that are used in most patterns. 
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How do you adjust your size in any area?

---
Do you change the knitted patterns once in awhile, often, or all the time? Do you feel you want to knit exactly as the pattern says, or is the idea of going off in another direction, something you think of at times? There is no wrong way in knitting.
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do you have any special stitches you use for texture?


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## mildredL2

Hi Shirley, I will be happy to join this conversation! Will have to start while we are still snowbirds away from home, so I do not have my stash. I would love to make a stashbuster next time, as I really love the visual interest of the different colors, but for now will do a sideways skirt in a solid, with a different yarn for yoke and sleeves. 
Even though it is a solid, I love the idea of bands of different stitch patterns for texture, so there will be new techniques to try out!
Thank you for the photos, schematics, tips, and for all your time in running this extra conversation.


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## weteach4ulinda

Count me in Shirley. I have my measurements, picked out my colors and am now looking for some different textures for the stripes. Do you have any suggestions? I normally do texture going from bottom to top but this is side to side. 
I did the t shirt with you and love it. Linda

There have been some suggestions posted by one of our members who finished first. I will go check out the ones she said and post them here. It will be helpful to many of us.


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## glnwhi

following

Nice to see you!


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## chezalvera

following


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## Ctown Nana

weteach4ulinda said:


> Count me in Shirley. I have my measurements, picked out my colors and am now looking for some different textures for the stripes. Do you have any suggestions? I normally do texture going from bottom to top but this is side to side.
> I did the t shirt with you and love it. Linda


Hi Linda When I did my side to side in the last class, *I used seed stitch, stockinette, bamboo stitch, blueberry stitch and reverse stockinette. New Stitch a Day\ website has some wonderful directions for different stitches*. You did a fabulous job on your bottom to top from the last workshop. I think I am going to make the bottom to top this time--just need to finish another project first. Good luck!! Ctown Nana [Kathryn]

I have used different stitch guides and end up using the same ones most of the time as they work so well. I really like new Stitch a day, as well as the site that gives all the alphabet with patterns for each letter. can't think of the name but will see if I can find it.


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## JeanJean

i would like to be a part of this. altho my wrist is still in a cast, i have definite plans to make my first sweater sideways, thanks to your fine directions, and a second sweater from this class. hooray for saving these tutorials.

I am so glad to see you back with us. Don't push your luck with your wrist - this and the first workshop will be here permanently and I am always available to answer pms.


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## Designer1234

I just finished the neck band in mine. Trying to decide whether to add another two strips to the sides as it is a wee bit tight. It does stretch with wearing so I am basting the sides and will see what I think then. I also have some weaving in to do before I start seaming the sides permanently and then will do the sleeves with 40in turbo addis using magic loop for my sleeves. I am not sure what I am going to do with them.

If any of you need any help I am here. I just want you to do as much as you possibly can, on your own. So nice to have a new set of friends!!! The information from Lupines has a section about adding side panels to each side of a sweater if it is knit too small - I am going to study it because that can happen . At first I always ended up with sides too big but I like things loose. However with my tunics I am following my measurements more closely and I like the way they are fitting. I would love to make two side panels narrow at the top and wider at the bottom, rather than build in a flair on the original sides. I am going to try that next time.


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## JoyceinNC

I would love to listen in on this "conversation" also. Would like to be proficient enough at altering knit wear patterns, possibly in the same manner as sewing patterns. I've been altering and combining sewing patterns to get what I want for a long, long time. U.S. dressmaking patterns say average height for women is 5' 5" to 5' 6", but I am only 5' 2", and I'm not shaped like a stick figure! There just isn't anything in the stores that I can buy off the rack and wear.

Would like to know about using design elements from various pattern sources to add to or alter my favorite basic patterns. Most of the runway items are just too extreme for me, the colors and styles I see in stores don't interest me at all. Even if I use a published pattern, I always seem to have to re-do the math to match my yarn and gauge, then change the widths and lengths to be more comfortable. I might as well start with blank paper and sketch pencils! Now, if only I could draw....

Looking forward to this discussion and will look up the previous one for additional information. Many thanks!

 It is a long time since I changed a sewn pattern but I used to do it. I know some knitters who took my class and they make a drawing of the sweater design they want changing the pattern to fit their shape, and adding or deleting different parts of the pattern - so you certainly can use the idea of changing sizes - just think of your knitting areas as pieces of fabric. I know one lady who has a lot of her favorited sewing patterns and she lays them out and knits a shape the same as the pattern shapes and she has made some wonderful sweaters that way. There are unlimited ways to do your own thing. So if you think of something you might want to do GO FOR IT!

From your post you already do a lot of the procedures I am teaching. You might find it just more fun to branch out a bit with a start by using some color, and different textures starting without a pattern as you did for the first sweater. Obviously you are experienced in changing and adjusting which is very important and good to know.


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## MargegraM

I'll be checking in as well.
Marge

 Great - make suggestions and ask any questions. I want everyone to make their thoughts known and discuss their ideas for this second sweater. I hope most of the decisions are their own. I would love to see each and everyone make a completely original sweater. You can do that by using one of the pattern suggestions at the top of this conversation. If a pattern works, or an idea works you can use it more than once.


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## Conchalea

Conchalea said:


> Shirley, I'm still working on my T-band sweater but will follow this conversation as I keep on with the first. I'm very interested in the construction of this second sweater plus I want to add in novelty yarns for texture contrast. I bought a couple of books (used) by Laura Bryant on using novelty yarns & texture in knits. I'm very excited to start this second adventure!
> 
> That sounds very interesting - have you done anything like this in the past? Have you ever used novelty yarns? they can be added to the stashbuster sweater, but not too many but they sure can make a 'different' look. Good for you. Please join in the conversation anytime,


I have used novelty yarns & really like the texture difference they make in an item. I haven't used any in an article of clothing, only blankets & a shawl so I'm ready to incorporate them in a sweater.


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## Magicnymph

I don't think any of the yarn I have at the moment is up to snuff for another sweater.... most of it being lace and fingerling weight. But, I would love to join in this discussion... or do another sweater (though, I'm thinking a cardigan this time)


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## ccmjwb

JeanJean said:


> i would like to be a part of this. altho my wrist is still in a cast, i have definite plans to make my first sweater sideways, thanks to your fine directions, and a second sweater from this class. hooray for saving these tutorials.
> 
> I am so glad to see you back with us. Don't push your luck with your wrist - this and the first workshop will be here permanently and I am always available to answer pms.


I believe it is knitting fool.

Ops, apparently something went wonky! I was replying to Shirley saying she liked the alphabetical listing of stitches. I really don't know how I quoted JJ's, sorry! And I'm sorry to hear about your wrist! Ouch! Are you able to knit at all?

This is Jean Jean, not Jessica Jean ( JJ) just for our information.


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## Designer1234

*I just received some more links from Lupines - they are excellent and I would add them to your collection*.

Lupines wrote "I found some links that might be of use to you in the sweater workshops".

Here is a link to estimate needed yardage. http://www.fiber2yarn.com/catalog.php?item=3278&catid=*Questions&ret=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.fib...

Here is a link to various selvedge edges. http://www.tricksyknitter.com/knitted-selvedges-or-selvages/
(I generally slip the first stitch purlwise and knit the last stitch of every row, for my selvedge - looks nice and easy to remember!)

Link to neat cast off for curved edges.





Picking up stitches link. http://www.studioknits.com/bookpage68.htm

A youtube channel - J's Knit and Purl Jam - has various videos that walk beginners through knitting to fit without using patterns. She takes a slightly different approach than you, and she also knits along in the video, making the videos very LONG but friendly. Each one builds on prior skills. The ones that knit a sweater from scratch start with #12, 15, and continue 16, 17, 22, 35( sleeve) , 36, and 40. She also shows how to select and fit various stitch patterns into your sweater. These videos might be useful for a beginner.

 Thanks very much lupines, these will be good to have on hand.


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## MargegraM

Morning Shirley,

I need some direction regarding the need to bind off ,or not, for the neck on the back. It looks like your suggestions show that there is no need to do this on the back. I will finish my rectangle and do all the head/neck bind off on the front.

Do I need to allow for the edging and add that to my number neck count bind off? I take head measurement + ease, divy that up that number per each side and front (depending on the style) then do I add additional numbers if I plan on using a non stretchy band? I would imagine a rib would not need this and I am planning on a rib, but was wondering about the band if used?

Because of some tension problems(lines) while using circulars for the first time,I'm swapping what was the front to be my back. It was mainly stocking stitch, and I don't want to frog it so it will be out of sight out of mind, and to bad to whomever is standing behind me. lol This time I will use a simple texture(s) which will covers a multitude of tension errors for the front.. I did buy a better circular with a longer cable and I seem to be getting better with consistency. Love my new ChiaoGoo.

Thanks Shirley.
 I keep the live stitches on the needles. If you check out the links I just posted which I received from Lupines (which is included in her document) there is a link about doing the neck and it is excellent. It is included in the how to knit a sweater series. *StudioKnits.com*

*How to knit a sweater part 2 - It gives information as to all parts of knitting a sweater, although I haven't had a chance to check it out I would think the information is excellent.

and scroll down to the neck information. I just checked it out and it is very very helpful*


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## Nonalehm

Last week I was thinking seriously about continuing with the workshop and somewhere in my head was thinking about a neck down cardigan sweater. Now as I have returned to read over the conversation it seems to me the focus is more bottom up with the sideways front with color and texture. My ability with the use of color leaves a lot to be desired, and I tend to wear plain clothing. So I guess my question at this time is: would it be better to do a pull over, side ways front before attempting a cardigan,, and if doing a cardigan would you do a sideways front? I need to get yarn so I can get started and do need to decide what to do. Suggestions please. I did learn so much and am pleased with my dishcloth sweater. Nona
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I WOULD RECOMMEND YOU DO A CARDIGAN, as you have already done a pullover.) You can do them sideways. the are fun. Do it with two fronts and the back. I personally don't like the knitting around - I don't like it when I have to try to get my sleeves to fit a one long piece sideways back. I also like side seams on all my sweaters. It helps them fit better.
You certainly don't have to do a stashbuster cardigan or pullover. However if you are not used to making a color combination, you might rethink that. A lot of the people I have taught over the years didn't use color because they were not sure how to. If it would really make you feel uncomfortable then stay away from the colors, however if you really would like to go out of the box a bit, use some color even if it isn't a stashbuster. Up to you.

From your post I would recommend you do a sideways bottom as much for the experience as not - that way you will have experience with both types of bottoms. However, you can make it anyway you wish. You can put more than one color, or use just one color and put in strips of texture, or not. Whatever you decide. So you could knit both fronts and back sideways, with a bit of a flare or not, and really go for lots of texture with less color changes, or whatever you wish to do. You decide, buy your wool and any help you need just ask. I rarely do a one color sweater- but you could also do what I do, put a texture band in the sweater if it is one color. Endless choices.I am delighted that you are pleased with your first sweater!

*I don't really care for the top down as there is no seam in the sweater and I like a seam to keep it from slipping and spiraling. This is just my opinion, but I am slowly changing back to doing just the bottom up sweaters, either side knit or from the bottom up*


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## LUVCRAFTS

Hi Shirley, While I completed the dishcloth side to side sweater I don't really like it enough to wear it but have learned so much, especially from my mistakes. I believe I will do better in the future. I have never knitted an adult sweater, although I've done several children's sweaters. I want to make a side to side cardigan in different patterns/colors. I had a difficult time knitting with the cotton so I'm planning on using acrylic this time. I adore making adult sweaters so anything new I can learn will be so much appreciated. You are a super person giving so much of your efforts & time. Ann

 I am glad you are going to do your sweater in acrylic. I use it all the time for mine. Once you are ready, post if you have any questions as I will be happy to help you. There are two ways to do them. Flat, plain stocking stitch but with many colors, or a combination of both colors and texture. I will post a picture of the two different kinds. The flat stocking stitch is very pretty too. I use my strips no more than l.5" wide but most narrower than that. The sweater I am showing now has a once color textured strip every so often. It turned out very well.

Most however, I do with lots of texture too.


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## Nonalehm

-Shirley, thanks for your suggestions. I found some stripe yarn that i like the color and am going to use that as my jumping off point. I have done swatch etc and have decided that I will do the sideways cardigan and have come up with these figures so far. I want the front from yoke to top of hem to be 17 inches. My swatch is 4 St per inch so I would cast on 68? I want the front to measure 24 inches so would i then do 2 panels 12 inches wide and then add button band when front and back completed and shoulder seams done? I am now doing a couple of different stitches on my swatch to see if I can add some texture. thanks for this work shop, maybe I can get to thinking out side my narrow box. Nona***********

 your stitch number is correct and the rest sounds very good. I have used striped yarn and picked up the colors in plain yarn as well. Just a thought. It sounds as if you are right on. Away you go!


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## LUVCRAFTS

Shirley I wrote to you several days ago saying I would do the sideways cardigan in acrylic. You then posted pictures of the ones you knitted and I fell in love with the first one with the small stripes of different colors. Question: What size needle did you use and what size yarn? I have a feeling that my worsted yarn will make the cardigan too bulkymore like a jacket, which I don't want. What do you think?
Again & again my sincere thanks for everything

I never use a needle larger than a size 9 US (5.5mm). it will mean it will be a looser weave. I also would suggest that you don't put too much heavy texture in as that makes the sweater heavier. The one you comment on is in worsted, and is quite a solid sweater. There are two ways to reduce the weight of the sweater - use a slightly finer yarn, or go to #9. needles- you will have to do another swatch to get your stitches per inch for the top. As far as the bottom is concerned the only measurement you need will be the KNITTED ROW lengh as you will be knitting it the length from under the arm to whatever length you wish.

I made this like a tunic coat so it is quite long. Here is another one that is a tunic cardigan using the sideways knit.

It was one of my very first cardigans and there isn't a lot of texture. I changed colors in the middle of the rows but it turned out very well, it makes a huge difference if there is very little texture. I believe that it was 5mm US8 but without the texture it makes a difference. The one you were talking about has a lot of texture. I am glad you brought that up as it makes a differencei in the sweater. You would just make yours shorter if you want a sweater rather than a coat- If you want a lighter sweater I have used sport weight yarn but we live in a chilly part of the world so I find I can get more use out of the worsted weight. For those in warmer climates, I would go with sport weight and US8 needles which would be must less warm.

I will look for a picture of one I did. I didn't feel as good it it although lots of people remarked on it. It didn't fit me as well as I would have liked. 

[/color]


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## tami_ohio

I will also be following along, but still need to finish my first sweater. I am thinking cardigan this time, and either top down, or bottom up, as I did my first sweater side to side. I have barely picked up the needles in 2 weeks. I also need to go back and print off the links and put them in my notebook.

Thank you so much, Shirley! I am learning so much!

I have done one other sweater with no pattern. It came out ok, but doesn't get worn, as I put back on the 20# that I had lost before I made it. I found the way you explained things much easier to understand than the way that was explained to me by the LYS owner.

 Thankyou Tami -- I was worried that the information was too much in the workshop. It seemed that the students liked the way it was written. I have broken the info down a lot on this conversation and hopefully it will help if someone missed any of the info. Sometimes someone who has learned by doing rather than be reading a pattern does make more sense to some people. I am glad that the lovely sweaters are still being finished- It is nice to see my friends in these workshops


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## MargegraM

Designer1234 said:


> *I just received some more links from Lupines - they are excellent and I would add them to your collection*.
> 
> Lupines wrote "I found some links that might be of use to you in the sweater workshops".
> 
> Here is a link to estimate needed yardage. http://www.fiber2yarn.com/catalog.php?item=3278&catid=*Questions&ret=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.fib...
> 
> Here is a link to various selvedge edges. http://www.tricksyknitter.com/knitted-selvedges-or-selvages/
> (I generally slip the first stitch purlwise and knit the last stitch of every row, for my selvedge - looks nice and easy to remember!)
> 
> Link to neat cast off for curved edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picking up stitches link. http://www.studioknits.com/bookpage68.htm
> 
> A youtube channel - J's Knit and Purl Jam - has various videos that walk beginners through knitting to fit without using patterns. She takes a slightly different approach than you, and she also knits along in the video, making the videos very LONG but friendly. Each one builds on prior skills. The ones that knit a sweater from scratch start with #12, 15, and continue 16, 17, 22, 35( sleeve) , 36, and 40. She also shows how to select and fit various stitch patterns into your sweater. These videos might be useful for a beginner.
> 
> Thanks very much lupines, these will be good to have on hand.


I just read the Picking up stitches link. http://www.studioknits.com/bookpage68.htm and found Rachelle King's Studio knits to be a great informative site and online book. I ordered the cd to be able to have the book on hand! I love her teaching/information methods . Great for the visual learner especially if you haven't been through that exercise before. 
This workshop has opened many new doors to explore. Thanks Shirley!

The links were found by lupines and that one especially is worth looking at! I am doing the same as you Margaret as it covers so much information.


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## Kateydid

Hi Shirley. After success with my bottom up t bar pullover in cotton I decided to try a sideways pullover in cotton also. Living in a very warm climate I think cotton would be cooler than acrylic. This one is going much slower (and I'm a slow knitter anyway) because 1, I'm only using three colors and 2, because each time I change a color I think about or look for a different stitch to use. I looked up knitting stitches and got all kinds of things, not necessarily what I was looking for. Then duh! Look at dishcloths, they have all kinds of stitches to use. So even though it is taking longer to knit, I'm enjoying it so much more. Now to go back and read everything you said about sideways pullovers because I skipped those parts when I did the t bar pullover. Thank you


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## Designer1234

Kateydid said:


> Hi Shirley. After success with my bottom up t bar pullover in cotton I decided to try a sideways pullover in cotton also. Living in a very warm climate I think cotton would be cooler than acrylic. This one is going much slower (and I'm a slow knitter anyway) because 1, I'm only using three colors and 2, because each time I change a color I think about or look for a different stitch to use. I looked up knitting stitches and got all kinds of things, not necessarily what I was looking for. Then duh! Look at dishcloths, they have all kinds of stitches to use. So even though it is taking longer to knit, I'm enjoying it so much more. Now to go back and read everything you said about sideways pullovers because I skipped those parts when I did the t bar pullover. Thank you


 I am glad you are enjoying yourself! just join along and ask any questions. I am glad that you found the workshop useful. I appreciate it that you have worked so hard and that the others have too. Shirley

***************
By the way ladies. if you are doing the sideway st. stashbuster or any of the sideways sweaters, *make sure you count your stitches every few rows. You don't want to add any stitches, especially when you do yarnovers!* (ask me how I know).

If you add or delete stitches your tops and bottoms when the project is turned will be uneven. you want it as straight across as possible!

Also those who have finished their sweaters, please post them on the #1 workshop and the parade! (the link is in the workshop)

 I am adding this - I like my sweaters to have a seam. I don't like the way they fit when there is no anchor under the arm. I therefore am slowing leaving the idea of a top down sweater and knitting cardigans 3pieces- 2 fronts and a back with under arm seams.


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## JoyceinNC

I have knit one cardigan (machine knit) where the sleeves and top of the cardi were knit sideways in one long piece wrist to wrist, picked up stitches for the lower part of the cardi and knit down to hem. Imagine a shrug knit sideways with stitches picked up to knit the rest of the body down to the hem. Fascinating idea, but the sweater is a disaster to wear. The top part, knit sideways, stretches and distorts very badly, making the whole cardigan hang unevenly.

I need to know how to stabilize sections knit sideways so they don't stretch and distort so badly. Is it the choice of yarn? I used an acrylic yarn with a slippery feel. Perhaps a worsted weight in a non-slippery acrylic or wool blend wouldn't do this? Or maybe something else. All of the photos posted on this thread with sideways knit sections look wonderful. I must have missed something along the way.....please help!

No more sideways knit sweaters until I can find out what to do to make it keep it's shape!

 I don't knit the whole thing together. I did talk about that in the information. - I do the fronts and back separately so there is a seam. I tried doing it all around and wasn't happy with the results. One I did in heavier worsted actually it was red heart worked not too badly. I like seams down the sides as it keeps them from spiralling.


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## mildredL2

Hi Shirley, Here is progress so far on my sideways sweater. The front is done. When I started, was away from home, and didn't have my stash, so the sideways bottom is solid. I had bought some more dishcloth cotton, so this is the second dishcloth cotton sweater, but the first sideways one.
I love doing the different stitches, really makes knitting interesting!
A question about picking up stitches -- I did a slip stitch selvedge edge to make it easier, but needed to pick up more stitches than chains, since each chain covers 2 rows of the edge, and that kind of made a yarn over for the extra stitches. I just twisted them to tighten up (hope I'm explaining okay). Is this the right way? Couldn't find anything about this when googling or in the links for picking up sts.
Than you for all your help!

I love it! it is going to be a beautiful sweater- Are you making a sweater or a longer tunic? That is going to really look good. You are working along really well. Good job- answer. I like the look of your edging where you pick up to yoke. The side edgings look good. As long as it lies flat it is fine. There are different ways to do them. Find one that works for you. This one looks very good.

I think whatever works well is good. I always add a 3 or 4 row fancy rib but this one looks really good. It is going to b e lovely.


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## weteach4ulinda

Mildred that is lovely! I love your colors and the neat stitches you used. Can't wait to see it completed. I have the skirt of mine almost done and then on to the top. Linda


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## Kateydid

Mildred
Your sideways is looking good. I like your variety of stitches. They appear to be random but yet they look balanced. Like your color choice too.
Kathy


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## LUVCRAFTS

Shirley, I am doing a sideways stash buster cardigan. I have at least 20 ends on each front that must be finished. That's a great deal of finishing to do. Am I correct in that assumption? ( Have never used different color stripes before.)

Does the back of your cardigan also have stripes? I think I will make mine solid if I have to do all the work again on the back.

Thanks so much.
Ann

 Usually I do both back and front but I have done both. each looks good. I always do each sweater differently so that even though the basic knit is the same it looks different. I also change the colors in my necks and usually match with the cuffs and sometimes the bottom band. So many different ways.

I have done it both ways.The following is what I do when all the yarn ends are at the sides - I use the Russian braided join if it is a color change in the middle of a row. I like doing the ends as the sweater has less chance of being separated at the color changes as we pull it over our heads. I also like the appearance better. 
*****************
Did you see the suggestion about how I finish my ends?

#1 split the yarn into two ends. I make them about 3 -4 inches.

#2 use a blunt needle,

#3work each half of the yarn in different direction work at least one thread into the side row rather than up the edge.

I do half a side at a time when I want to take a break from knitting. It isn't as hard to thread nor as hard to weave so that it doesn't show. I used to HATE doing the ends. I find this way works for me and I do it when I am relaxing and taking a break. I always do half a side when I am knitting so it takes about l5 minute each side - so total an hour over a fairly long time knitting. Hope this helps.


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## Ctown Nana

Kateydid said:


> Mildred
> Your sideways is looking good. I like your variety of stitches. They appear to be random but yet they look balanced. Like your color choice too.
> Kathy


I so agree with Kathy's comment---it is coming along just beautifully!!! Kathryn


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## mildredL2

mildredL2 said:


> A question about picking up stitches -- I did a slip stitch selvedge edge to make it easier, but needed to pick up more stitches than chains, since each chain covers 2 rows of the edge, and that kind of made a yarn over for the extra stitches. I just twisted them to tighten up (hope I'm explaining okay). Is this the right way? Couldn't find anything about this when googling or in the links for picking up sts.
> Than you for all your help!
> 
> I love it! it is going to be a beautiful sweater- Are you making a sweater or a longer tunic? That is going to really look good. You are working along really well. Good job- answer. I like the look of your edging where you pick up to yoke. The side edgings look good. As long as it lies flat it is fine. There are different ways to do them. Find one that works for you. This one looks very good.
> 
> I think whatever works well is good. I always add a 3 or 4 row fancy rib but this one looks really good. It is going to b e lovely.


Thanks, Shirley, I am making a hip-length sweater, probably 3/4 length sleeves on this one. Thanks for the encouragement to "do our own thing" -- it is very liberating and promotes creativity.


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## Susan65

I also want to follow this and do a tunic knitting sideways. I'm still working on my sweater from the first dish cloth workshop and won't start this till I finish it. I'm not a very fast knitter and have had a lot of distractions, i.e., I keep my 2 yr old and 4 mo old grandchildren who live in town 2 to 4 days a week and one granddaughter from San Antonio came to visit for a few days and then I've just been lazy at times. I also made it a little oversized and long, but I'm almost ready to do the neck and sleeves. Now trying to calculate the bo for a scoop neck. I'll post a pic when done and the yarn I'll do this tunic in (it's not cotton, but I've had the yarn for awhile and couldn't decide how to work it but think this's will be perfect). Have really enjoyed this and seeing everyone's finished projects.

 Thanks for keeping us up to date. We will look for you to finish your first sweater and then start the 2nd. It sounds as if it will be very nice.


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## grannyfabulous4

Loving the looks of all the sweaters, both here and from the first class. I still have not finished mine from the first class. (Injured right hand) Hopefully by next week I will be able to start again, then I want to do a true stash buster with acrylic, sideways cardigan. Shirley, your encouragement has meant so much and given me the courage to "think outside the box" with this project. I am following along.


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## tami_ohio

mildredL2 said:


> Hi Shirley, Here is progress so far on my sideways sweater. The front is done. When I started, was away from home, and didn't have my stash, so the sideways bottom is solid. I had bought some more dishcloth cotton, so this is the second dishcloth cotton sweater, but the first sideways one.
> I love doing the different stitches, really makes knitting interesting!
> A question about picking up stitches -- I did a slip stitch selvedge edge to make it easier, but needed to pick up more stitches than chains, since each chain covers 2 rows of the edge, and that kind of made a yarn over for the extra stitches. I just twisted them to tighten up (hope I'm explaining okay). Is this the right way? Couldn't find anything about this when googling or in the links for picking up sts.
> Than you for all your help!
> 
> I love it! it is going to be a beautiful sweater- Are you making a sweater or a longer tunic? That is going to really look good. You are working along really well. Good job- answer. I like the look of your edging where you pick up to yoke. The side edgings look good. As long as it lies flat it is fine. There are different ways to do them. Find one that works for you. This one looks very good.
> 
> I think whatever works well is good. I always add a 3 or 4 row fancy rib but this one looks really good. It is going to b e lovely.


 :thumbup:


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## AmberSparkles

I've started my top down/sideways sweater. There are so many options! I've finally settled on a course of action. I've looked at a bunch of stitches. I had to ground myself from the internet..... To much looking and I was going to have to pay overages  I am using Knit Picks, sport yarn. It is called peapod. I'm ready to see what everyone s is doing!


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## Conchalea

I finished my dishcloth sweater 5 minutes ago! Even though I didn't work on other projects while knitting the sweater, it took me 6 weeks. The neck gave me the most trouble as this was my 1st pullover. I've made 3 cardigans prior to this. I started decreasing too early for the neck so it looked weird. I filled in with the main color in the hope it would look planned-my own design element!its longer than it looks.

 It is really nice. I like your neckline and I like the stitches you used. Excellent job! Shirley


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## AmberSparkles

What a great job. I tried two colors... I got tangled up and didn't think the middle band showed up enough. So I did a solid color. Maybe next time I'll be more patient. I love your color contrast. Now what are you going to do?


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## weteach4ulinda

What a nice sweater, I hope you will wear it. I like the little triangle under the neckline. A one of a kind feature! Who knows it might become a design feature of the future! Good going! Loinda


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## Kateydid

Conchalea, I think your sweater came out great! The color combination is attractive and your neck looks as if it is supposed to be designed like that. Be proud!


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## Conchalea

AmberSparkles said:


> What a great job. I tried two colors... I got tangled up and didn't think the middle band showed up enough. So I did a solid color. Maybe next time I'll be more patient. I love your color contrast. Now what are you going to do?


thank you! It turned out much better than I expected. I made the inner panel 22 stitches wide, with the outer ones 38 or 39 stitches wide. I did have twisted yarn balls, but untwisted them each row. The T-band looks nice, I think, and I may incorporate it again.


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## Conchalea

AmberSparkles said:


> What a great job. I tried two colors... I got tangled up and didn't think the middle band showed up enough. So I did a solid color. Maybe next time I'll be more patient. I love your color contrast. Now what are you going to do?


I'm already bagging yarns together for a color-texture explosion! So many ideas, so little time.


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## Conchalea

weteach4ulinda said:


> What a nice sweater, I hope you will wear it. I like the little triangle under the neckline. A one of a kind feature! Who knows it might become a design feature of the future! Good going! Loinda


Thank you! I never thought of myself as a trend-setter.


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## mildredL2

Conchalea, I love your beautiful sweater! The neckline gives a great design element. :thumbup:


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## Conchalea

Kateydid said:


> Conchalea, I think your sweater came out great! The color combination is attractive and your neck looks as if it is supposed to be designed like that. Be proud!


Thank you, and I am pleased with it. It's soaking in a vinegar solution right now. Next I'll wash and dry it. It may be too heavy for our weather, as it's in the high 80's and low 90's now, but I can wear it in the fall.


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## Conchalea

mildredL2 said:


> Conchalea, I love your beautiful sweater! The neckline gives a great design element. :thumbup:


Thank you


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## Conchalea

I just realized I put this posting in the wrong topic! Sorry everyone.


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## Ctown Nana

Conchalea said:


> I finished my dishcloth sweater 5 minutes ago! Even though I didn't work on other projects while knitting the sweater, it took me 6 weeks. The neck gave me the most trouble as this was my 1st pullover. I've made 3 cardigans prior to this. I started decreasing too early for the neck so it looked weird. I filled in with the main color in the hope it would look planned-my own design element!its longer than it looks.


Oh my word....your sweater is just gorgeous!!! I love the design, color and perfect neck treatment. You have done yourself proud:] Kathryn


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## Conchalea

Ctown Nana said:


> Oh my word....your sweater is just gorgeous!!! I love the design, color and perfect neck treatment. You have done yourself proud:] Kathryn


Thank you, plus it FITS!


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## Jessica-Jean

Conchalea said:


> I finished my dishcloth sweater 5 minutes ago! Even though I didn't work on other projects while knitting the sweater, it took me 6 weeks. The neck gave me the most trouble as this was my 1st pullover. I've made 3 cardigans prior to this. I started decreasing too early for the neck so it looked weird. I filled in with the main color in the hope it would look planned-my own design element!its longer than it looks.


Awesome sweater! :thumbup:


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## ccmjwb

What a great sweater! Love the colors!


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## Conchalea

Jessica-Jean said:


> Awesome sweater! :thumbup:


Thank you!


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## Conchalea

ccmjwb said:


> What a great sweater! Love the colors!


Thank you!


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## run4fittness

Conchalea said:


> I finished my dishcloth sweater 5 minutes ago! Even though I didn't work on other projects while knitting the sweater, it took me 6 weeks. The neck gave me the most trouble as this was my 1st pullover. I've made 3 cardigans prior to this. I started decreasing too early for the neck so it looked weird. I filled in with the main color in the hope it would look planned-my own design element!its longer than it looks.


Love your color choices! And the neckline looks very good. :thumbup:


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## Conchalea

run4fittness said:


> Love your color choices! And the neckline looks very good. :thumbup:


Thanks-a happy accident!I call them design elements. I bet


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## tami_ohio

Conchalea said:


> I finished my dishcloth sweater 5 minutes ago! Even though I didn't work on other projects while knitting the sweater, it took me 6 weeks. The neck gave me the most trouble as this was my 1st pullover. I've made 3 cardigans prior to this. I started decreasing too early for the neck so it looked weird. I filled in with the main color in the hope it would look planned-my own design element!its longer than it looks.


Very nice.


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## Designer1234

I just received weteachforulinda's email with her sweater picture. I like the way she finished it. It looks lacy and once she blocks it it will really be a treasure.

Linda - I think you did a great job and I will put it in the parade for you too.

Shirley


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## mildredL2

Designer1234 said:


> I just received weteachforulinda's email with her sweater picture. I like the way she finished it. It looks lacy and once she blocks it it will really be a treasure.
> 
> Linda - I think you did a great job and I will put it in the parade for you too.
> 
> Shirley


Linda, I love your beautiful cardigan! What lovely knitting, colors , and stitch work, looks so good on you.


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## Ctown Nana

Designer1234 said:


> I just received weteachforulinda's email with her sweater picture. I like the way she finished it. It looks lacy and once she blocks it it will really be a treasure.
> 
> Linda - I think you did a great job and I will put it in the parade for you too.
> 
> Shirley


Linda--Your sweater is just beautiful and fits so well!! Congratulations on a job very well done! Kathryn


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## Conchalea

Every sweater shown is beautiful! I think this has been a very successful workshop & I know I've learned a great deal from it. Thanks, Shirley!


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## run4fittness

Designer1234 said:


> I just received weteachforulinda's email with her sweater picture. I like the way she finished it. It looks lacy and once she blocks it it will really be a treasure.
> 
> Linda - I think you did a great job and I will put it in the parade for you too.
> 
> Shirley


weteach4ulinda, very nice indeed! Great colors, textures, etc. :thumbup:


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## tami_ohio

Designer1234 said:


> I just received weteachforulinda's email with her sweater picture. I like the way she finished it. It looks lacy and once she blocks it it will really be a treasure.
> 
> Linda - I think you did a great job and I will put it in the parade for you too.
> 
> Shirley


Beautiful sweater on a beautiful lady!


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## ccmjwb

Looks great!


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## Designer1234

Let me know by posting here if you are working on a sweater. We will leave the workshop open for awhile longer if there are still those in the process. I have another workshop opening on the 21, and try to have just two going at once. So let me know whether you will be able to finish it soon. The workshops will both be here permanently, and I will be available by pm. I will leave it open for a few days.

Please post if you are still knitting and where you are with your sweaters. Thanks friends!


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## Conchalea

I'm making a side-to-side cardigan. I'm also working on another project so I haven't progressed as far as I'd like on the cardie. I'm about ready to bind off for the armhole on the first front side. I'm knitting the entire body sideways as an experiment.


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## mildredL2

Designer1234 said:


> Let me know by posting here if you are working on a sweater. We will leave the workshop open for awhile longer if there are still those in the process. I have another workshop opening on the 21, and try to have just two going at once. So let me know whether you will be able to finish it soon. The workshops will both be here permanently, and I will be available by pm. I will leave it open for a few days.
> 
> Please post if you are still knitting and where you are with your sweaters. Thanks friends!


Hi Shirley, I am still working on my side to side pullover. Front and back are done. Just finished the back last night, now need to do side and shoulder seams, and 3/4 sleeves, then neckline finishing and bottom finishing. 
Thank you for everything!


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## LUVCRAFTS

Doing a side to side stash buster cardigan. Am up to the sleeve portion but forgot how it was done on my other short sleeve side to side dishcloth sweater. Misplaced all the notes I had (ugh!). I decided that since the bottom portion was five different colored stripes I would leave the ends dangling as though they were fringe. I will "try" to send a picture when I'm done. 

I can't thank you enough for helping me to "think" so that I don't have to follow a pattern.
Ann


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## MarilynKnits

Hi, Shirley,

I am working on mine. I have the body in the round done and am working on a ribbed hem. I have the back yoke picked up and done and once I have the ribbing done I will pick up the front yoke. Close the workshop if everybody else is ready. I will post my pictures on the picture thread once I am done.

I am really enjoying doing this sweater, although I don't have as much time as I might. This is my month to volunteer 4-5 hours a day, 3-4 days a week, for a rummage sale early in May. We are taking in donations and shelving them. It is a lot of work but the cause is hugely worthy.

As long as the text of the workshop is still there for consulting, I have no problem.

Thanks for a really fun workshop.


Designer1234 said:


> Let me know by posting here if you are working on a sweater. We will leave the workshop open for awhile longer if there are still those in the process. I have another workshop opening on the 21, and try to have just two going at once. So let me know whether you will be able to finish it soon. The workshops will both be here permanently, and I will be available by pm. I will leave it open for a few days.
> 
> Please post if you are still knitting and where you are with your sweaters. Thanks friends!


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## LUVCRAFTS

Shirley, is there a rule as to decreasing when one is knitting a long sleeve?

 I always do the decreases under the arm. I put a marker there and when I decrease I decrease one on each side of the marker, or sometimes I decrease before the end stitch and knit it - and then knit on then decrease on the new side of the marker. I like the decreases together. I leave at least one inch between decreases and if I am ending up with extra stitches, which I usually do, I knit my fancy band =

Row one -purl one row, \

Row 2 - purl one, knit in back of next stitch across the whole row.
Row 3 - knit where you purl, purl where you knit,

Row 4 - Purl one row.

NEXT ROW, DECREASE EVENLY ACROSS THE ROW USING A KNIT STITCH, or if you have some length you want to add below the band, decrease some of the stitches and then decrease a few more a few rows later until you have the right number for your cuff rib. I use 28 or 32 as we want multiples of 4. My wrists are small so depending on the needle size I am using - in some cases I reducse the needle size for the cuff by one size- (you play this all by ear). start your cuff so that it will be 3 - 4 inches above your wrist. Don't make your sleeves too short.

here are some examples of my sleeves on different sweaters. You will note with one, I ended up with a lot of stitches and decided to make a wider cuff for awhile and then delete the ribs down to 2 X 2 ribbing. It works well too.


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## Nonalehm

My sweater project is stalled at this time. I will not finish at this time but will come back to this workshop (even if it is closed) when a resume the work. Thank you for this workshop I have learned so much, and with every posting gotten more ideas and information. Thanks.
Nona


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## JoyceinNC

Since I didn't see any responses to my question about stabilizing the stretch in side-to-side knitting, I'll keep up with this workshop, but will not be making the cardigan. I've had too many bad experiences with sideways knitting stretching and distorting horribly to try it again without any additional ideas.


----------



## Conchalea

JoyceinNC said:


> Since I didn't see any responses to my question about stabilizing the stretch in side-to-side knitting, I'll keep up with this workshop, but will not be making the cardigan. I've had too many bad experiences with sideways knitting stretching and distorting horribly to try it again without any additional ideas.


I thought Designer 1234 answered your question as I remember reading it. Maybe you missed it. She said she only knits the bottom part sideways, not the yoke or sleeves. She picks up stitches on one side, uses a ribbing pattern at the join and then knits the yoke up to the neck & armholes, using whatever stitch pattern that takes her fancy. I don't recall what she said about the sleeves, but she may use a similar pattern on them. I do think she knits them lengthwise rather than side to side. I hope this summary of her technique helps you.

 TO JOYCE :that is why I have said I do them in fronts and backs rather than around- I also have said I am not going to be doing any more top down sweaters for that reason. I don't like it that there is nothing to control the bottom and although with my shape it works reasonably well, (my orange sweater), I like it to fit better.

If I am making a cardigan knitted sideways. I DON'T knit it around. I knit both fronts and the back separately so that there is a seam. I am sorry that I wasn't clear about that - I have left this up to each of the students and obviously you agree with me about sweaters knit around the body. I have mentioned my feelings about this quite often throughout the workshops. Joyce - I hope you will give it another chance down the road by not knitting in one long piece. I don't like having to divide a long area for the sleeves either. 

Many people like that type of pattern however. 
Conchalea is correct - I usually further stabilize it as my diagrams and examples have shown, by adding the yoke in a plain color and using the same color for the sleeves. This stabilizes the bottom part of the sweater.- It works well for me. Check out the pictures of my work. The only time I knit a continuous from top to b ottom stashbuster was the top down with the cream border. It is just a short cardigan.

The longer coats are knitted in three parts and seamed at the sides and with a one color yoke at the top. Same as the tunics which are long pullovers. 

=========


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## JoyceinNC

Conchalea said:


> I thought Designer 1234 answered your question as I remember reading it. Maybe you missed it. She said she only knits the bottom part sideways, not the yoke or sleeves. She picks up stitches on one side, uses a ribbing pattern at the join and then knits the yoke up to the neck & armholes, using whatever stitch pattern that takes her fancy. I don't recall what she said about the sleeves, but she may use a similar pattern on them. I do think she knits them lengthwise rather than side to side. I hope this summary of her technique helps you.


Yes, I did read that, and yes, I've tried that, without good results. I wondered if choice of stitch pattern made any difference, such as cables vs. stockinette. All knit "fabrics" stretch more from side to side than from top to bottom, even t-shirt knits that we would sew with. With t-shirt fabrics, placing the greatest stretch of the fabric sideways can cause the fabric to stretch and sag, which doesn't look good on very many people. A slim lady can look like she's wearing a maternity top!

I wondered if heavier yarns would stretch more than light weight yarns. I made a cardigan with a light weight yarn, and it stretched out more than the worsted weight yarn. But it may not be true for all light/heavy yarns, just the ones I was using. Don't know how to tell. They were both acrylic, don't know if natural fibers would be better or worse.

It's been my experience that crochet doesn't stretch as much when worked in a sideways direction, so I should probably stick with that until I can find out more about sideways knitting. Unfortunately, my hands go numb rather quickly now, so I'm trying to use the knitting machine as much as I can. It looks like this is an idea and technique that I will have to put on the back burner for now. Frustrating, since the photos of sweaters made this way look great. Sigh.....


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## weteach4ulinda

I have not had the yarn stretch since I used single crochet, 5 rows, around the whole thing. You are correct that crochet does not stretch as much as knit. Linda


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## LUVCRAFTS

Just know that because of YOU someone who was too intimidated to knit an adult sweater no longer is. All your hard work..answering everyone's questions almost immediately has been a god sent. I don't have a local yarn store nearby but even if I did, they wouldn't have helped me any more than you did....right in the comfort of my home. Yea for Shirley!!!!!

Thankyou for the kind words. I have enjoyed every moment of both these workshops and other classes I have taught on this forum. It has made my life so much richer. I think you have all done extremely well. Those who 
went for it, made a huge step in their knitting, because it showed what is possible with a little bit of knowledge.

Those who weren't quite so pleased, I hope you did gain something from the class. It is useful when you use a pattern but have a shape different than the average, to change the number of stitches here and there to make a better fit.

I appreciate all the cooperation and the kindness of you all. We will stay open awhile longer so that others can finish up their sweaters. I applaud everyone who wants to take another step in their knitting journey. You can never stop learning if you are interested in trying. Trying is the only way we learn to do new concepts, and this was a big change for many of you. My hat is off to all of you.!


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## Designer1234

LUVCRAFTS said:


> Shirley, is there a rule as to decreasing when one is knitting a long sleeve?
> 
> I always do the decreases under the arm. I put a marker there and when I decrease I decrease one on each side of the marker, or sometimes I decrease before the end stitch and knit it - and then knit one then decrease on the new side of the marker. I like the decreases together. * I leave at least one inch between decreases -minimum*and if I am ending up with extra stitches, which I usually do, I knit my fancy band
> 
> Row one -purl one row, \
> 
> Row 2 - purl one, knit in back of next stitch across the whole row.
> Row 3 - knit where you purl, purl where you knit,
> 
> Row 4 - Purl one row.
> 
> NEXT ROW, DECREASE EVENLY ACROSS THE ROW USING A KNIT STITCH, or if you have some length you want to add below the band, decrease some of the stitches and then decrease a few more a few rows later until you have the right number for your cuff rib. I use 28 or 32 as we want multiples of 4. My wrists are small so depending on the needle size I am using - in some cases I reducse the needle size for the cuff by one size- (you play this all by ear). start your cuff so that it will be 3 - 4 inches above your wrist. Don't make your sleeves too short.
> 
> here are some examples of my sleeves on different sweaters. You will note with one, I ended up with a lot of stitches and decided to make a wider cuff for awhile and then delete the ribs down to 2 X 2 ribbing. It works well too.


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## Designer1234

LUVCRAFTS

 I always do the decreases under the arm. I put a marker there and when I decrease I decrease one on each side of the marker, or sometimes I decrease before the end stitch and knit it - and then knit on then decrease on the new side of the marker. I like the decreases together. I leaveat least one inch between decreases and if I am ending up with extra stitches, which I usually do, I knit my fancy band

Row one -purl one row,

Row 2 - purl one, knit in back of next stitch across the whole row.
Row 3 - knit where you purl, purl where you knit,

Row 4 - Purl one row.

NEXT ROW, DECREASE EVENLY ACROSS THE ROW USING A KNIT STITCH, or if you have some length you want to add below the band, decrease some of the stitches and then decrease a few more a few rows later until you have the right number for your cuff rib. I use 28 or 32 as we want multiples of 4. My wrists are small so depending on the needle size I am using - in some cases I reducse the needle size for the cuff by one size- (you play this all by ear). start your cuff so that it will be 3 - 4 inches above your wrist. Don't make your sleeves too short.

here are some examples of my sleeves on different sweaters. You will note with one, I ended up with a lot of stitches and decided to make a wider cuff for awhile and then delete the ribs down to 2 X 2 ribbing. It works well too.


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## JoyceinNC

weteach4ulinda said:


> I have not had the yarn stretch since I used single crochet, 5 rows, around the whole thing. You are correct that crochet does not stretch as much as knit. Linda


This may solve my problem! I'll have to make a note of this. I can manage a few rows of crochet around the outside something, just not the whole thing. Many thanks!


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## tami_ohio

Designer1234 said:


> Let me know by posting here if you are working on a sweater. We will leave the workshop open for awhile longer if there are still those in the process. I have another workshop opening on the 21, and try to have just two going at once. So let me know whether you will be able to finish it soon. The workshops will both be here permanently, and I will be available by pm. I will leave it open for a few days.
> 
> Please post if you are still knitting and where you are with your sweaters. Thanks friends!


Yes, I am still working on my first sweater. Working on the back yoke, then will have to figure out my front neck, then sleeves.

No problem, Tami


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## Ellisen

I'm still knitting my Tee/tunic. My pc was just returned, so I'll take a photo and post asap. I'm following along on the cardi.

 I hope to see the pictures soon.

We spent a little time on a small holiday for our anniversary so I am catching up today. I will be leaving it open for at least another week but then it will be closed but still available to read. I am glad that the sweaters are turning out so well.


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## LUVCRAFTS

Happy anniversary. Many more great ones, Shirley.
Finished my stash buster sideways cardigan but when I tried it on I did not like
the way I knitted the sleeves. Seems my tension was off. One sleeve was knitted with double pointed needles, the other was knitted with circular. Did it that way since I wasn't happy with the first sleeve. Now I'm frogging them both & starting again. Have no idea why BOTH sleeves looked so bad. Any ideas or tips I can use? Thanks a bunch.


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## LUVCRAFTS

Shirley I forgot to mention that when I've knit a child's sweater and have done the arms separately, I've not had a problem with tension. It's only when I knit small items in the round that I have this issue.


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## MargegraM

Designer1234 said:


> Let me know by posting here if you are working on a sweater. We will leave the workshop open for awhile longer if there are still those in the process. I have another workshop opening on the 21, and try to have just two going at once. So let me know whether you will be able to finish it soon. The workshops will both be here permanently, and I will be available by pm. I will leave it open for a few days.
> 
> Please post if you are still knitting and where you are with your sweaters. Thanks friends!


Hi Shirley, I haven't been able to work on my sweaters as "LIFE" is getting in the way. When Things begin to calm to a better pace I will get back to them. Don't wait on me as I have just started the yoke on both.. I will post some where , probably in Pictures when I finish, if this workshop is closed..
Thanks Shirley for all the info and encouragement I have learned from your workshop and have become courageous in trying new ideas and methods. Love it!
Marge


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## tami_ohio

Shirley, please go on without me, also. I will get my sweater finished, but not soon. I will keep track of the work shop though..


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## Conchalea

I, too, am still working on my sideways cardigan. My work & other projects have interfered but I'm still planning on finishing it.


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## mildredL2

Almost done with my sideways sweater, doing the last bit now, the neckline, and hope to post a photo before the workshop closes.

Tami, I hope everything is okay and that you will be able to finish in the near future.

I also am looking forward to seeing the others. I will leave it open over the weekend.


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## Designer1234

*IMPORTANT!*

*This is a repeat suggestion for those who ended up with a too large sweater*

finished my first sweater. It is too large, so maybe if I wet it and put it in the dryer it will shrink???
***************************
I hope that works but to be honest I doubt it. However in the future,

_I would be very careful to TRUST your calculations. I knit my first few sweaters too large as they just looked too small before I had them finished so added and inch or two.

OR. you need to do another swatch and knit like you do on your daily work, sometimes there is a difference. MAking sure your are knitting the same as you always do. Also you can do a bigger swatch - or, if you have knit another project using the same needles and the same yarn, you can double check your calculations. None of us want a sweater too small, so we sometimes 'add a 'wee bit', just to make sure it won't be too small.

I had a problem learning to TRUST my calculations. If you make the sides even an inch bigger than your calculations, your sweater will not fit, especally if you have already added your positive ease at the beginning.

I think your sweaters are great and I am sorry they are too large. Possibly you might make them a winter sweater rather than a summer one by changing the sleeves to long sleeve instead of summer sleeves? Another thought is give it to someone and make yourself another. As you know they are not difficult.._


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## tami_ohio

mildredL2 said:


> Almost done with my sideways sweater, doing the last bit now, the neckline, and hope to post a photo before the workshop closes.
> 
> Tami, I hope everything is okay and that you will be able to finish in the near future.
> 
> I also am looking forward to seeing the others. I will leave it open over the weekend.


Thank you. Everything is ok. Just life stress and also on the road. I'm not able to concentrate on something that needs calculations and thought. However, I have been able to finish a pair and a half of socks! I can almost do those in my sleep! Nice mindless knitting. I will be back at my sweater shortly. I have a cardigan in my mind calling my name so need to finish this sweater first.


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## mildredL2

Finally finished my side to side sweater, made this one out of dishcloth cotton too, with rolled edges and 3/4 sleeves. 
Thanks for a great workshop, Shirley

 I love it . what a good job!. I like the combination and I hope you get lots of use from it. Now you can go ahead and use acrylic blends and other yarns to make another one.

Ladies, don't let this knowledge just slip away. It is so much easier to do them to fit! I am so impressed and delighted that so many of you made the second sweater and will make more. You have done so well.


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## run4fittness

mildredL2 said:


> Finally finished my side to side sweater, made this one out of dishcloth cotton too, with rolled edges and 3/4 sleeves.
> Thanks for a great workshop, Shirley!


Lovely! Great colors and texture.


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## Jessica-Jean

mildredL2 said:


> Finally finished my side to side sweater, made this one out of dishcloth cotton too, with rolled edges and 3/4 sleeves.
> Thanks for a great workshop, Shirley!


 :thumbup: :thumbup:


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## Designer1234

*THIS WORKSHOP IS NOW CLOSED*

The workshop will be closed as far as accepting new posts. However, it will be available with ALL our workshops on this section for the use of all members. If you are interested in these workshop, please read both #1 and #3 . There is also a document with a specific outline of how to do the 
sweater with cotton yarn, on the first page of this workshop).

If any of you need help with and can't find the answers in either of these workshops, don't hesitate to pm me and I will gladly help you. Thanks to all who have taken these two classes. It is wonderful what you have all accomplished and I hope you will carry on using what you learned here in the future. Shirley (Designer1234)


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## Designer1234

Marilyn knits just sent me a picture of her lovely finished sweater! I like the unusual front very much. good job Marilyn! Everyone, don't forget to put your pictures in the Parade. So that others can see them. Have any of you finished a second one? Send me a picture by pm now that we can do that,, and I will open this thread and put the picture in here and then lock it again. Thanks Marilyn! Shirley


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## tami_ohio

Designer1234 said:


> Marilyn knits just sent me a picture of her lovely finished sweater! I like the unusual front very much. good job Marilyn! Everyone, don't forget to put your pictures in the Parade. So that others can see them. Have any of you finished a second one? Send me a picture by pm now that we can do that,, and I will open this thread and put the picture in here and then lock it again. Thanks Marilyn! Shirley


That is beautiful! Love the mitered blocks.

I am still working on mine, slowly. I have the back almost to the neckline. Then only need to do the top of the front and shoulders/sleeves.

*THE PARADE*
************************
The *PARADE OF THESE SWEATERS IS AT THE FOLLOWING LINK

http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-393730-1.html

PLEASE MAKE SURE YOUR FINISHED SWEATERS ARE POSTED THERE. CHECK THEM OUT, THEY ARE WONDERFUL*


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