# #41 - CLOSED - KRISS KRINGLE CHRISTMAS STOCKING WITH Gin B



## Designer1234

*Welcome to #41 WORKSHOP KRISS KRINGLE CHRISTMAS STOCKING WITH GinB*

WORKSHOP GUIDELINES -- IT IS IMPORTANT YOU READ THIS BEFORE YOU START THE WORKSHOP!

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PLEASE ALWAYS start reading from the beginning of this workshop, even if you join in late.

This is important as sometimes corrections are made or there are additions to the original information. If you are starting the class, even after the starting date...
make sure you read the workshop from page 1.

Please post "*I'm In*" to join this workshop- once I have counted you into the student count, I will delete your post. If you are reading this you are now in the workshop. We ask that even if you don't take part in the discussion that you sign in so that we might get an idea of how many are actually working on the project.

#1- Once you have posted here on this topic, a notification will be sent to you by email each time there is a post to the workshop as long as you are subscribed to our Section. If you are not sure if you are subscribedclick on my profile at the top of any KP page, then click on Sections, then click on Subscribe to the Knitting and Crochet Workshops with Designer1234.

#2 PLEASE do not post links or other helpful information without pm-ing the teacher first and asking permission. These workshops are set up for the teacher to present her information in a specific way.

If class members post additional links or other information, it may conflict with what the teacher is trying to present and can create confusion for the students. This is very important.

#3 Let the teacher answer any questions that may arise.The teacher's answer to a specific question may be different from yours. The teacher is volunteering his or her time and it is only courtesy to allow the teacher to provide the answer to questions.

#4 Please don't give individual links to the workshops - we ask that you give only the following link to reach all our topics.

*http://www.knittingparadise.com/s-105-1.html*\

We hope you enjoy our workshops. We strive to keep them readable and the instructions clear and understandable.

We will be deleting non-essential posts after a few days,in order to keep the class material easy to follow for any student visiting the workshop, even after it is closed.

All our closed workshops are kept permanently on the above link for future use by KP members.

The workshop information will be posted later tonight or early tomorrow morning (Starting day) and the teacher (Ginny ) will be here to answer your questions. Please do not hesitate to let her know how you are doing and ask questions. That is what makes the workshops successful. Your questions are welcomed and quite possibly others are asking the same questions and would receive the answer from the Teacher.

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*WELCOME TO YOU ALL, AND ESPECIALLY TO YOUR TEACHER Ginny* -- have fun everyone!

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*please post I'm In when you arrive here at the workshop and sometime this evening or tomorrow I will count you in and delete your post.

It is also required that you read the above information post and follow the guidelines.*


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## GinB

*Welcome, everyone, to the Kriss Kringle Christmas Stocking workshop*. Don't hold your breath before beginning to read the rest of this post or you'll pass out. LOL

The original Columbia-Minerva Christmas Stocking, which was offered as a kit from in 1961, and could have been offered even farther back than that. This stocking is the reason I learned how to knit in the first place. My Aunty Jean knit one for me in 1969. I loved that stocking so much that I filed it away in my memory thinking I would also like to continue my aunts tradition when it was time for me to have my own family. Well, when that time came, I was way too busy raising my children. Finally, when I realized the day was fast approaching when I would start having grandchildren, I knew I was running out of time. So, I taught myself to knit and the original pattern for this stocking was my very first project.

So...if you have been concerned that this stocking may be too complicated for you, just put that out of your mind right now!!!! If I can do it with no more knowledge and experience than how to hold needles in my hands, cast on and get knit and purl stitches to look the same size (in what I now know was a swatch), then anyoneand I DO mean anyonecan knit this stocking.

Since I knit my first Kriss Kringle stocking, ideas started rolling around in my mind about how I would like the stocking to look. _ Wouldnt it look nicer if there were the knit and purl stitches at the top? (Now I know that was ribbing, but I didnt know that back then.) Wouldnt it look nice if Santa had a toy bag slung over his back? (I was lucky I was able to KNIT one, let along change one back then, but it didn't take long for me to take action anyway.) Wouldnt it be nice if I would make a bigger one? (Well, that opened up a huge can of worms. How do you change a pattern so that it still works out when it is made into what is basically a sock?) It was trial and error_.

 Over the course of 9 years, I created six (6) different variations of it. The pattern varies slightly with each one, partly to accommodate the different widths of the patterns and partly because I wanted to try different things. The version I came to love best is one with ribbing, Santa hoisting a medium-sized toy bag over his shoulder and a somewhat larger (though not jumbo) size than the original. That pattern is Option 5...and the project you will be knitting for this workshop.

Now, I know that some of you are interested in the original pattern so that you can carry on a tradition already in your families. Dont worry.

_ When I have finished teaching the Option 5 pattern, I will provide the other 6 patterns as downloads and, if anyone wants me to extend the workshop to include the original or another one of my stocking patterns, I am willing to extend the workshop so that can be accomplished_.

The first order of business is to learn to knit your first Kriss Kringle stocking. Some of you may have knitted a sock before. For those, this will be a walk in the park, but there will be differences.

First, this stocking is not initially knit in the round. You will be knitting on straight needles until you have come close to the part where you will knit the toe. At that point, you will switch off to double-point needles (DPNs).

For this project, knitting on straight needles will be easier than knitting in the round. Why? Because you will be knitting what is essentially a picture and will be changing yarn colors frequently. That is what intarsia is - a special way of changing colors to make a "picture".

If you were knitting in the round the entire time, it would be a project in itself to have all the different colored bobbins of yarn hanging inside the stocking while you knit. (It is a future project for me to figure out, but Im not ready for that yet.) So, the easy way to knit this stocking is to initially use straight needles, then switch off to double-point needles (DPNs) when they are is called for. Then, once you are ready, you will sew the ends of the topmost portion of the stocking (let's call it the "leg" ) together with a seam.

The wonderful news about the seam is that one of the other teachers here, Saroj, has developed a new method to sew seams invisibly. Yes, thats right. Its invisible. Once you try it, you will say, mattress stitch??? NOT ME!!! Ive got a much better way to do it and it wont leave a lump inside the seam. HmmmIm getting ahead of myself.

Lets go back to the construction of the stocking for a moment and the techniques that will be employed in its making.

_You may be an experienced or expert knitter and know some or all of the techniques we will be using. If that applies to you, thats fantastic. I know those who fall into that category typically dont need or want to see a lot of extra information that others with less or no experience need.

However, this is a workshop and I have to address instructions that will be useful to everyone, not just some. For the more experienced or expert knitter, I have created a set of BASIC instructions, a download of which will be available toward the beginning of the workshop. You can follow along in the workshop and have the "less is more" version of the posted instructions handy if what is posted becomes too tedious for you_.

Just keep in mind, there is always something to be learned from someone else's experiences, be it mine or another workshop participant, so don't close yourself off to what you have to gain from being here with everyone else.

Most people join KP workshops to learn something they dont know how to do. Many will not know anything at all about making socks, fair-isle, intarsia, the Kitchener Stitch way of finishing a sock/stocking toe or how to Duplicate Stitch anything onto a knitted piece. We all want to increase our knitting skills.

It is for those that need more help that I designed a second set of instructions. They are written in a manner that will take you through the making of the stocking in small, manageable steps. It will be very easy to follow and everything will be spelled out so you wont have to guess at anything. Those instructions also include links to suppliers of angora yarn and links to what I feel are the best of the best in graphic, photographic and video tutorials for techniques we will be using with this stocking.

Let me stop a moment and say that this workshop will be conducted entirely online within the "walls" of these pages.

_The mention of videos pertains strictly to video tutorials that are available elsewhere on the internet and provided here and within my instruction files with the permission of the experts who created them. In addition, there are other types of tutorials that are being provided to you via links. (Some of the experts have other great tutorials, they may offer products or services for sale, and/or they may design patterns. With the permission notes below each link, you will find a link indicating where those individuals can be found_.

I have spent a great deal of time and energy preparing everything, no matter what your level of experience is...

(1) so that you will not be overwhelmed,

(2) so that you will be able to understand and follow the directions without pulling the hair out of your head (if you still have some - that is not a given...LOL), and

(3) so that you will not only be encouraged from each accomplishment you achieve while knitting the stocking, but you will also be excited to try other new things you might have thought were beyond your capabilities (What hogwash!!! I dont believe in that. You can do anything you set your mind to.)

As I said, I knitted nothing but a swatch before knitting this stocking. If I can do it, so can you. Plus you will also have the benefit of having me here to help you.

I know Designer1234 addressed this above, but it bears repeating.

I want to request one thing of all participants. Each time you come into the workshop, PLEASE check to see what was posted by others since the last time you were here. I will be happy to answer everyone's questions and concerns. (The only stupid ones are the ones not asked.)

However, if I spend extra time answering the same thing over and over again, its a waste of my time, it delays my answering new questions and prevents me from spending time actually teaching the class. Please be respectful by doing this one thing for me. Thanks in advance for your cooperation.

Dont get concerned about how far along anyone else is in the workshop. The only thing that is important is that you are going at a pace that is comfortable for you and you are having fun in the process.

Tomorrow morning I will post the instructions and pattern charts. (Dont worry if you have never used one before. Mine dont have all the different symbols on it. Its just knitting graph squares to show you what goes whereand when.)

I hope you are as excited as I am about the workshop opening up tomorrow morning. This is the first class I am teaching here, although I have taught other craft-related classes elsewhere. There is no point in having a specific time to open since people from all around the world have enrolled in this workshop. Just jump in when you are able. That said, I will tell you that I live in the Central Standard Time (CST) zone and am typically an early riser.

Have a great evening, get plenty of rest and we'll pick this up tomorrow morning.

Ginny


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## GinB

MATERIALS LIST, GAUGE INFORMATION, ABBREVIATION / TERMS, and FIRST SEGMENT OF INSTRUCTIONS:

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MATERIALS LIST:

Yarn:

In ounces: One (1) Red Heart SuperSaver 7-oz skein each of red, green and white worsted. There will be enough to do at least 2 stockings, if not more. (I selected Red Heart yarn because I wanted stockings to hold their shape when hung. The colors I selected were Cherry Red and Paddy Green. Red Heart is an acrylic yarn, though you can use wool.

In grams for ONE (1) Stocking: One (1) 100 gm ball each of red, green and white worsted (You may have quite a bit of white left over, especially if you use a lot of angora. You MIGHT be able to get away with one (1) 50-gm ball if that size is available, but I am not absolutely certain that one 50-gm ball will be enough, so I'm erring on the side of caution.)

You will also need a small amount of pink, black and gold worsted. The original pattern called for black yarn for eyes, but feel free to change the eye color if you wish.

Optional Yarn:

 1 skein black Red Heart Shimmer yarn (if you want a shiny belt resembling a patent leather belt)

 1 pull-skein DMC Gold Metallic Floss #5282* (if you want a shiny belt buckle) - if you select to use this floss, I suggest twisting it around the gold worsted yarn like a candy cane. Remember to knot the gold yarn with metallic floss at the beginning before twisting it. If you dont, the metallic floss will unwind. Another option would to be to look for gold yarn with metallic thread running through itif you can find it.

 White 100% angora yarn (49 yd / 10 gm balls)  Dont feel compelled to use angora for your stocking, especially your first one. You can use regular white worsted instead. (In my case, I used angora for Santas hair, beard, the ball at the end of his cap, down the front of Santas suit, cuffs, and along the bottom edge of his suit. I used more than 2 full balls, but less than a full 3. Although its classified as bulky yarn, it is so thin that it needs to be combined into three strands to be equivalent to worsted. If you buy three (3) balls, thats not so much of a problem, but if you only buy one (1), you have to unwind it and fold it into 3 parts (to make it 3-ply). If you have difficulty finding angora (or finding it in stock), the following vendors sell it (some offer discounts, others dont):

http://www.fabulousyarn.com/plymouth_angora.shtml

http://www.yarn.com/webs-knitting-crochet-yarns-plymouth/webs-knitting-crochet-yarns-plym...

http://www.jimmybeanswool.com/knitting/yarn/Plymouth/Angora.asp?specPCVID=34776&advSource...

http://halcyonyarn.com/products/yarn/197.html

Two angora synthetic alternatives are:

Yarn: YarnBee "Effervesce"
Color: #100 Stardust (white)
Yarn Weight: 4 - Medium
Skein Weight: 4 oz/224 yds - 115 gms/206 meters
Fiber Content: 89& Acrylic, 20% Polyamide
Care: Washable, do not iron
Retail Price: $5.99/skein
Details: This yarn is manufactured in Turkey and distributed by Hobby Lobby as their "Yarn Bee" house brand.

My Comments: This yarn is very soft and fluffy and is the right thickness to use as one strand only. I recommend it as an angora alternative.

Yarn: "Beautiful by Pearl Essence"
Color: #BE-08 Beautiful White
Yarn Weight: 5 - Bulky
Skein Weight: 1 3/4 oz/71 yds - 50 gms/65 meters
Fiber Content: 51% nylon, 49% Acrylic
Care: Hand wash, no ironing
Retail Price: $4.99/skein
Details: This yarn is also manufactured in Turkey and distributed by Jo-Ann Stores as their "Beautiful by Pearl Essence" house brand.

My Comments: This yarn is softer and fluffier than the Yarn Bee brand. The feel of it more closely resembles angora. However, like angora, although this yarn is labeled as a #5 bulky weight yarn, it is thinner than the Yarn Bee brand. You would definitely need to combine strands to equal the thickness of a worsted weight yarn. You can probably use 2 strands of this yarn as opposed to the 3 strands you need when using angora. I very highly recommend this yarn as an acrylic alternative, although you don't get much yardage for the price. That said, it's still somewhat cheaper than angora).

Knitting Needles:

1 Pair of Size 2 U.S. / 3.25mm U.K. / 2.75mm European  for ribbing only 14-inch needles (I know how ridiculously small this needle size sounds, but when I tried using Size 3 needles, the ribbing was too wide.)

1 Pair of Size 5 US / 3.75mm U.K. or European 14-inch needles (or the size needed to obtain the correct gauge).

1 Set (of 5) DPNs (double-point needles)  the same larger size used above.

*NOTE:[/b[ You may also use circular needles. However, if you are inexperienced with using them, be careful that, if you have to snug up stitches (explained later), you make sure that each stitch maintains the correct size.

Needle Conversion:
http://www.fibergypsy.com/common/needles.shtml
The above link has been provided courtesy of FiberLink and The Fiber Gypsy - http://www.fibergypsy.com.

Yarn Bobbins: A minimum of 14 is suggested. A very inexpensive alternative is to wind yarn around wooden spring clothespins, using the spring to prevent the yarn from unwinding. If, however, you wish to purchase bobbins, I recommend the Clover brand. They allow you to keep your bobbin closer to your work than other brands.)

Stitch Holders: 3

Brass Bells: 5-6 bells, Size 12mm or slightly larger (You will need 6 if you use the original toe or 5 if you use the Kitchener Stitch toe.)

Yarn Needle

Highlighter

Row Counter

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Gauge: 5 stitches = 1 inch, 7 rows = 1 inch

Length: Approximately 21½ inches

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ABBREVIATIONS / TERMS:

Frog = To unravel stitches (rip itrip itrip it)
K = Knit
K2Tog = Knit 2 stitches together
MC = Main Color
P = Purl
P2Tog = Purl 2 stitches together

Sl = Slip a stitch from the left needle onto the right needle without knitting (or purling) it.

Slipping a knit stitch: Slip as if to knit if you are following a slipped stitch with a decrease. Slip as if to purl, if you are not following a slipped stitch with a decrease.

Slipping a purl stitch: Slip as if to purl, whether you are decreasing or not.

SKP = Slip, knit, pass slipped stitch over  a decrease. Slip as if to knit, knit the next stitch, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch and off the needle (like a cast-off stitch).




The above link has been provided courtesy of Beth Richardson of Sapphires-n-Purls Blog; 
SapphiresnPurlss Pattern Store, on Craftsy; BibbityBobble on Ravelry.

SPP = Slip, purl, pass slipped stitch over  a decrease. Slip as if to purl, purl the next stitch, pass the slipped stitch over the purled stitch and off the needle. (Same things as SKP, but with a purl stitch instead of a knit stitch.)

Stockinette Stitch = (*knit one row, purl the next row, repeat from * so that the front side of the work always shows a knit stitch)

St / Sts / st / sts = Stitches

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Here are some helpful hints before beginning your stocking:

 Make sure to knit the first and last stitch of each row snuggly. That ensures that the end stitches will mesh with the rest of the stitches in the row so that the seam cannot be seen.

 If you have to frog to the beginning of a row, you will notice the end stitch loosening up. Tighten the last several stitches back up until you have an even tension across all of them, especially the last stitch.

 Dont knit different colored stitches by eyeballing the chart - count them!

 Its a good idea to wind two bobbins of each color before beginning I do recommend filling up your bobbins as far as you possibly can (until the yarn won't stay on the bobbin. Once you have finished using a certain color in a certain area (and it won't be picked up again within a few rows in the same general location, cut the bobbin yarn, leaving a tail to weave in. [Bobbins have a tendency to get tangled up. If there is a lot of yarn hanging on a bobbin after you change colors, it would be a good idea to wind that bobbin back up so not as much yarn hangs down to get tangled.]

 Whenever you are to cut yarn and leave a tail to weave in, it is always better to leave a nice long tail. The little bit of extra yarn will be insignificant and it will allow you extra room to maneuver a yarn needle.

Okay, lets have some fun
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INSTRUCTIONS  Option 5:

Part 1 - Casting On:

With red or green yarn (depending upon which color you would like the ribbing to be) and Size 2 needles, cast on 72 sts for the Extra-Large stocking.

It is not a good idea to cast on loosely because you need a solid beginning so the stocking top wont sag. Remember to leave a long tail at the beginning to make a loop for hanging your stocking. After casting on, wind it up so it is out of your way.

For the remainder of the stocking, you will be working back and forth in Stockinette Stitch, following placement of colors and decreases on each side as shown in the chart for the pattern you choose. Keeping the chart upside down, follow the charted graph as follows:

Knit row  read the chart from right to left.
Purl row  read the chart from left to right.

If you find that hard to do, an alternative would be to flip the chart around at the end of each row.

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Part 2 - Ribbing:

K2, P2 across for all 7 rows.

(In order to ensure that the Fair-Isle and Intarsia rows occur on the side of the stocking they are intended to be knitted on, an even number of ribbing rows is not possible. If you desire a longer ribbing, it is important that additional rows are added in sets of 2 for the same reason.)

Last stitch - When you reach the last stitch of the last row of ribbing, place the tip of the right needle purlwise into the last stitch on the left needle. Lay the white yarn across (over) the ribbing yarn IN FRONT OF your needles. Then, using the ribbing strand of yarn ONLY, finish purling the stitch. (Think of it as setting up the yarn. It locks the white yarn into place and sets it up so that the white yarn is ready and waiting for you to knit the next stitch, which in this instance is the first stitch of the next row. The white yarn will not be visible from the front of the stocking.)

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The "downloadable" instructions and charts will be posted next. Unfortunately, only photos are viewable. To see them yourself, you will need to download and print them out. (You only need to print Pages 1-4 for now.) They are in PDF format.

If you do not have Adobe Reader on your computer to be able to view PDF files, here is a link to their most recent version of the program that you can download for free:

http://get.adobe.com/reader/?promoid=HRZAC

These are the charts that will be made available as downloads:

1) A color version
2) A black and white version
3) A black and white version with numbers
4) Alphabets charts (to use when personalizing your stocking)
5) A blank stocking graph in the same size as the Option 5 stocking (in case you would like to try to design your own stocking at a later date)
5) A blank full-page graph (to practice charting the name you will be personalizing on your stocking)

You may find that using the black and white version with numbers is preferable - your call.

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DOWNLOADS (Option 5 only):

21_KK_Stocking_Op5_Instr_Basic_11-01-13..........(BASIC Instructions, normal font)
22_KK_Stocking_Op5_Instr_Basic_LF_11-01-13......(BASIC Instructions, larger font)
23_KK_Stocking_Op5_Instr_Detail_11-01-13.........(DETAILED Instructions, normal font)
24_KK_Stocking_Op5_Instr_Detail_LF_11-01-13.....(DETAILED Instructions, larger font)
25_KK_Stocking_Op5_Pattern_10-27-13...............(Charts - 1 page each, to be printed on 8-1/2" x 11" paper)
26_KK_Stocking_Op5_Pattern_2pgs_10-27-13........(Charts - enlarged, 2 pages each, to be printed on 8-1/2" x 11" paper)
27_KK_Stocking_Op5_Pattern_11x17_10-27-13......(Charts - enlarged, 1 page each, to be printed on 11" x 17" paper)

You can download all of them, but to save on printer ink, only print the ones you plan to use. (Other pattern variation downloads will be posted toward the end of the workshop.)*


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## catlover1960

GinB said:


> Last stitch - When you reach the last stitch of the last row of ribbing, place the tip of the right needle purlwise into the last stitch on the left needle. Place the white yarn over the ribbing yarn from left to right (with the raw end of white hanging over the left side of the ribbing yarn), leaving a tail to weave in. P the last ribbing stitch. That locks the white yarn into place for the next row. Cut the ribbing yarn, leaving a tail to weave in.
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So is the last ribbing stitch purled with both the red yarn and the white yarn and will look like a double stitch that will be treated as one stitch on the next row?


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## GinB

catlover1960 said:


> So is the last ribbing stitch purled with both the red yarn and the white yarn and will look like a double stitch that will be treated as one stitch on the next row?


Catlover,

Good question. The answer is no. On the last stitch of the ribbing row, which is a "purl" stitch, you will put the tip of your needle into the stitch (as if to purl), but before actually finishing it, you will lay the strand of white yarn across (over) the red strand IN FRONT OF your needles. Then, using the red strand ONLY, finish purling that stitch.

What that does is lock the white yarn into place within the last red yarn stitch. Think of it as setting up the yarn for you.

Locking a new color yarn in the stitch before a color change sets it up so that the new color is in place, ready and waiting for you to knit the next stitch in the new color. In this instance, the next stitch is the first knit stitch of the next row.

You only actually purl the stitch with the red strand. The white yarn, though held in place, will be invisible from the right side of the stocking.

NOTE: If you are locking a new color in a "knit" stitch, then you would be placing the "new" color over the "old" color BEHIND your work.

Does this answer your question?

Ginny


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## Designer1234

*We now have 70 students who have signed in*, not counting those who are reading the workshop -

- Please post I'm In, even if you are not going to be posting but are doing this workshop. -- this is just for our information. We hope that you will join the class and feel free to ask any questions however, and let us know how you are doing -.

We would love to have lots of pictures of your works in progress posted as well.

HAVE FUN EVERYONE!!!!


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## GinB

karhyunique said:


> Ginny, how long do I need to leave the cast on tail? I left about 18 inches enough or should I recast on? And I'm plenty old enough that's just a better picture of me than most ha ha. My little grandsons are adorable in every picture, ( such a grandma comment uh? Lol) Kathy


Karhy,

Just to be on the safe side, it would be best to leave a couple of yards (that's 1.8288 meters for our friends overseas).

I use my hand to make a mini-bobbin, winding the end of the yarn around all if it a couple of times and tucking in the end. Then, I just leave it hang there out of the way.

Since you left 18 inches, don't go back. Continue knitting. You can start with a new piece of yarn, incorporating your current tail after you have finished your stocking. At THAT time, be sure to leave a very long tail so you have plenty to weave in.

Ginny


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## GinB

INSTRUCTIONS (Next Segment):

Part 3 - Personalizing Your Stocking:

Change to Size 5 needles and continue with white yarn.

You are now beginning the part of the stocking where you will be adding a name, either while knitting this section using the Fair-Isle method or after the stocking has been knit using the Duplicate Stitch method.

Look at the alphabet charts. Notice that the length and width of the stitches of the charts are different from each other. If the name you are personalizing the stocking with is a long one, stitch width will be an important factor.

Method 1  Duplicate Stitch: Knit the entire stocking with no name. Then, using a yarn needle, manually knit over existing stitches. This is a very easy method and has the advantage of mimicking knit stitches.

The obvious advantage to the Duplicate Stitch method is that the name the stocking can be used by the intended recipient now, and when the time comes for the stocking to be passed down in the family, the name can be removed and a new name put on.

Method 2  Fair-Isle: With this method, the name is permanently embedded. You carry the unused yarn, called floats, loose (not loosely  theres a difference) behind the work as you knit (not twisted as in the Intarsia method). Be sure to read my note about taut yarn in Part 4 before attempting this method.

The only rows that will use the Fair-Isle technique are to personalize the stocking with a name (if you select this method), the three rows after the last solid white row where you switch off from green to white and the brick design on the instep (top of the foot). Do not carry yarn across the back of your work for any other part of the stocking.

Fair-Isle:

How to stitch and different ways to hold the yarn:




The above link has been provided courtesy of Liat Gat and KnitFreedom - http://knitfreedom.com/; liatm on Ravelry.

Fair-Isle knitting on a knit row and introducing a new color:




Fair-Isle knitting on a purl row:




The above two links have been provided courtesy of Kyoko Nakayoshi and Cotton and Cloud - http://cottonandcloud.com/; cottonandcloud on Ravelry.

NOTE: The rule of thumb with Fair-Isle is not to carry floats (yarn carried across the back of your work in Fair-Isle) any more than 5 stitches. Some people have a concern that children might get their fingers tangled in the floats. I have made the stockings for my grandchildren with 5-stitch floats and they did not get their fingers caught in the yarn, nor did they stretch the yarn. If that is a concern you have, an easy way to rectify it is to make shorter floats. In preparation for this workshop, I made another stocking, tacking Fair-Isle every three (3) stitches. You will see photos of both techniques within the workshop. Just select the method that appeals to you more.

If you have chosen to use the Duplicate Stitch method to create a name, beginning with a purl row, knit the next 13 rows in white. You will enter the name after the stocking has been knit, but before the back seam has been sewn.

If you have chosen to use the Fair-Isle method to create a name, using one of the alphabet charts and blank graph provided with your pattern, graph out the name, leaving one column of knit stitches blank between each letter. Transfer the name from your practice graph onto your black and white (stocking pattern) graph, centering it horizontally between the 4th and 10th rows.

Beginning with a purl row, knit the next 3 rows in white, then begin knitting in the name using the Fair-Isle instructions in Part 4 (below) and following your charted name. Although black yarn was used to for the name with the Original pattern, you can also use red. It pops out nicely.

Continue to knit according to your chart.

When you reach the last stitch of the last solid white (purl) row, place the tip of the right needle purlwise into the last stitch on the left needle. Place the green yarn over the white yarn with the raw end on the right side of the white yarn, leaving a tail to weave in. Purl the last stitch in white. That locks the green yarn into place for the next row.
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## Lynnhelen

I am on Santa's beard. I messed up a few rows in the green/white section. I had written on the chart to make sure I did purl row in opposite direction then promptly didn't do it! I noticed it just now but will not frog. I will call it a design element!
I am off to knit night so will continue knitting there. Or not! We all get to talking so much I end up making mistakes.
Thanks again for all your thoughtfulness.
Lynn


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## GinB

CHART HELP:


If you are having a bit of trouble trying to remember which side of the chart you should work from on any given row and don't want to have to frog, then PLEASE consider flipping the chart in the opposite direction every time you end a row.

See if it doesn't help. It helped me.


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## GinB

Railyn said:


> do you think I could use 2 strands of eyelash yarn for the beard? Money is a little tight and I have white eyelash.


Railyn,

I know how it is when money is tight. Unfortunately, I have concerns about how eyelash might work out. Why don't you knit a test swatch and see how it looks? If you don't like it, then another option would be to use the white worsted you are using in other parts of the stocking?

If you don't like how your stocking looks with white worsted once it's completed, at least you will have practiced how to make one. Then, when things improve for you, you can make a new one with the materials called for with this pattern.

I hope you will still knit the stocking in either case and I hope things improve for you in other ways. Things are tough for a lot of people. My thoughts and prayers are with you.

Ginny


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## GinB

Crafting101 said:


> I'm ready to start Santa... I'll keep plugging away tonight. the instructions are clear (I printed the detailed even though I have been knitting for awhile). Mostly because I get uncomfortable with the carrying of the yarn over larger areas. Still, it is working and I try to keep the longer ones to a minimum by using the bobbins.
> 
> Edey


Edey,

You are erring on the side of caution and there's nothing wrong with that!!!

Once you start using my detailed instructions, you might be pleasantly surprised at how well you will progress with carrying yarn over large OR small areas. I will be interested in your comments once you give yourself a chance to try it.

As far as carrying yarn and the use of bobbins, sometimes I have left the green skein in use on the one side, using bobbins for other green areas. (When I've done that, I took the yarn label off and wound the bobbins from the outside of the skein.) Other times, once I have completed the white/green Fair-Isle rows, I have clipped the green and changed over to a bobbin so I wouldn't have to deal with a skein in the way. Whatever method works for you is the one you should use.

I look forward to hearing how your progress is going.

Good luck and happy knitting.

Ginny


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## GinB

Lynnhelen said:


> I only got a few rows done on Santa tonight. I am quite tired so will start again in the morning. The color chart is a bit hard on my eyes at night. I think I will try the black & white one tomorrow.


Lynn,

I had no idea you were relying on the color one. You will probably do much better using the black and white one. You can use a highlighter on it to chart your progress as you complete each row if that works for you.

Get some rest. Tomorrow's a new day. I think I'll follow suit. Goodnight everyone. See you tomorrow.

Ginny


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## peachy51

GinB said:


> Railyn,
> 
> I know how it is when money is tight. Unfortunately, I have concerns about how eyelash might work out. Why don't you knit a test swatch and see how it looks? If you don't like it, then another option would be to use the white worsted you are using in other parts of the stocking?
> 
> If you don't like how your stocking looks with white worsted once it's completed, at least you will have practiced how to make one. Then, when things improve for you, you can make a new one with the materials called for with this pattern.
> 
> I hope you will still knit the stocking in either case and I hope things improve for you in other ways. Things are tough for a lot of people. My thoughts and prayers are with you.
> 
> Ginny


Ginny --- Just a thought here, but could she not just knit it with the white worsted for now and then when she can get the angora, duplicate stitch over those sections?

Keep in mind that I've never done one, so I might not even know what I'm talking about ... LOL


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## GinB

peachy51 said:


> Ginny --- Just a thought here, but could she not just knit it with the white worsted for now and then when she can get the angora, duplicate stitch over those sections?
> 
> Keep in mind that I've never done one, so I might not even know what I'm talking about ... LOL


Libby,

While I did suggest that she could used white worsted, I had not considered duplicate stitching angora at a later is an alternative.

Thank you for the suggestion. It was a very good one.

Ginny


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## GinB

elliebe said:


> im done the top rib and done the white. just going to start the green .. actually was trying at midnight but boo booed it. will start fresh this morning . liked the 'locking it in ' hint. works well


Elliebe,

You're doing great. The easiest way we can make a mistake is knitting when we are too tired. A fresh start today is just what you needed.

The detailed set of instructions were written to give you all the information you need to knit the stocking with ease (and take out all of the guesswork). It's nice to hear that they are working well for you...and thank you for the complement.

Ginny


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## GinB

SUGGESTION:

When you are tired, do yourself a favor and put your knitting down!

Especially when you are working on Fair-Isle, Intarsia, turning the heel, or the Kitchener Stitch, you need to be wide awake - not tired.

Although the detailed set of instructions are written in a manner to help you knit those sections in the easiest way possible, if you are so tired that you have trouble concentrating, it will be difficult for you to follow them.

Ginny


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## GinB

SUGGESTION:

For those who might have a problem making sure they are looking at their chart from the correct side for a given row, here is another tool you can use to help you...

Mark "K" in the margin for your knit rows and "P" in the margin for your purl rows.


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## GinB

Lynnhelen said:


> Good morning!
> I was up at 4am, did my "chores" and sat down to knit. I am using the B&W chart. Much easier. Here's my issue, I flipped the chart as you suggested earlier and somehow my design is opposite of picture! So embarrassing. I am on the row where Santa's pack is. Will this be a problem or is it just his hat swings to right instead of left? I dislike the thought of ripping the entire thing out but if I must, I will.
> I need more tea... :?


Lynn,

I know how you feel. Been there, done that. If you haven't done it yet, read my previous posts from this morning.

As long as you follow through to the end of the bricks, you should be alright. Your pattern will be reversed, but you will still end up with the same number of stitches on each end (those that will be put on stitch markers).

Just keep in mind...if you intend to knit this stocking for other members of the same family and want them all to match, you will have to do the same thing for the other stockings.

So, whether you want to frog or not, it's your call.

Ginny


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## Maddy

Ginny, I really want to thank you so much for offering such good instructions and tools to work with on this stocking.

The black and white graph with the numbers where we can highlight what we have completed is such a valuable tool! 

Oftentimes when working on such a knitting project one can get "lost" in the lines which makes us have to "frog" a lot of rows, but not with this graph, I love it!

Thanks again, you have accomplished what you set out to do, that is making this far less-complicated for us. 

Thanks again and a great BIG HUG (((((Ginny))))), I am having such a good time working on this stocking this time with no headaches, squinting, just the pure pleasure of knitting.

Maddy


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## GinB

Lynnhelen said:


> Me again... Hope you've had your coffee!
> While I await further instruction I decided to read through all materials again! On the chart on Row 46 there is a jog. Is this where the decreases begin "before reaching Part 6"? Also, I would be on a Knit Row for row 45. I counted all the K & P and that is how it fell. So my decreases would begin on a Purl row? Just want to clarify. Oh my, sooooo many questions. I am sorry.


Lynn,

You are absolutely correct. The side decreases on Rows 46, 56, 66, 78 and 86 are all purl rows. (Notice that even-numbered rows are all purl rows.)

Remember to use a SPP stitch for those decreases.

I am curious. Did you have prior experience with Intarsia? If not, were the instructions helpful enough?

Ginny


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## RookieRetiree

My mother-in-law made each of the grandkids stockings similar to this -- back in the 1970's -- and I'm trying to match them in making stockings for the grandkids. Thanks so much for having this workshop; I've started a stocking at least 3 times and haven't been able to get all the way through it. Now, I'm on about the 30th row of the faire isle/intarsia section so am almost 1/3 of the way done with the leg portion. Flipping the chart is a great TIP...I have a Santa going the opposite direction than the instructions, but it will still work out as long as I keep following the chart the same way.

I was trying to muddle through remembering how my MIL showed me -- but the videos of the two-handed method is so much easier--and I have no gaps, holes or puckers!! I do have to do it after the first cup of coffee in the morning when I'm the brightest.

Your instructions so far have helped me tremendously. I plan to use the duplicate stitch for the name because that's how the other stockings were done, but I am going to make something with a name using faire-isle just because!

I want to have all the stockings in the display be home-made ones for this Christmas.


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## GinB

RookieRetiree said:


> My mother-in-law made each of the grandkids stockings similar to this -- back in the 1970's -- and I'm trying to match them in making stockings for the grandkids. Thanks so much for having this workshop; I've started a stocking at least 3 times and haven't been able to get all the way through it. Now, I'm on about the 30th row of the faire isle/intarsia section so am almost 1/3 of the way done with the leg portion. Flipping the chart is a great TIP...I have a Santa going the opposite direction than the instructions, but it will still work out as long as I keep following the chart the same way.
> 
> I was trying to muddle through remembering how my MIL showed me -- but the videos of the two-handed method is so much easier--and I have no gaps, holes or puckers!! I do have to do it after the first cup of coffee in the morning when I'm the brightest.
> 
> Your instructions so far have helped me tremendously. I plan to use the duplicate stitch for the name because that's how the other stockings were done, but I am going to make something with a name using faire-isle just because!
> 
> I want to have all the stockings in the display be home-made ones for this Christmas.


Rookie,

No gaps, holes or puckers??? Whoohoo!

The stockings in the photo are very pretty. Of the knitted ones, one is the "Jack-in-the-Box" pattern and the other, from what I can tell, is the "Santa Holding a Tree" pattern, both of which I have.

Carrying on traditions is a wonderful thing to do. As time goes by, we begin to appreciate those things more and more...maybe because our mortality is staring us in the face...and we want to leave something behind to be remembered by. These stockings can become a part of our legacy.

Thank you for sharing the photo and your memories.

Ginny


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## Lynnhelen

GinB said:


> Lynn,
> 
> You are absolutely correct. The side decreases on Rows 46, 56, 66, 78 and 86 are all purl rows. (Notice that even-numbered rows are all purl rows.)
> 
> Remember to use a SPP stitch for those decreases.
> 
> I am curious. Did you have prior experience with Intarsia? If not, were the instructions helpful enough?
> 
> Ginny


No, I have never done Intarsia. Not sure how I feel about it...so many bobbins!
I have done Fair Isle so I do like that the bobbins are easier to untangle than the in FI. The instructions were wonderful. I especially liked the twist hint to avoid holes.


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## GinB

INSTRUCTIONS (Next Segment):

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Part 4  Fair-Isle (Green and White Rows):

If you have watched the videos, you know that you can hold one color of yarn at a time or you can knit a combination of Continental (holding the unused strand in your left hand) and English (holding the Main Color simultaneously in your right hand). If you feel comfortable using the Continental/English method, feel free to do so. However, since there are only 3 rows (Rows 21, 22 and 23) of Fair-Isle to knit, my instructions will use the simpler method - holding one color at a time.

NOTE: Regarding how taut to hold the unused yarn behind the active stitch you are knitting, as you knit make sure that your stitches are loose enough that, when you stretch any portion of them, the Fair-Isle stretches comfortably with no pulling. (When youve completed a row, you can always double-check. The unused strand should stretch along with all the other stitches in the row. If you carry the unused yarn too tightly, that section will have no give, it might pucker on the front side and it will be tighter than the rest of the stocking. It looks positively terrible. Take my word for itI learned the hard way.)

Lets take the first row slowly.

Row 21 - a knit row:

With the unused strand (white) lying over the green, K the first green stitch. Pull the white and green strands close to your work. Continue knitting the remaining green stitches until your chart indicates you need to change to white. Drop the green yarn.

Pick up the white yarn. With the white strand lying over the green, knit the first white stitch. Stretch the green knitted stitches on your right needle. If the white float stretches with the green sts (without the yarn sagging), knit the other 4 white sts and continue on. If it is too tight or too loose, pull the white yarn slightly until the tension is correct, then knit the other 4 white sts. Drop the white yarn.

Pick up the green yarn. With the green strand lying over the white, knit the first green stitch. Check the float tension. Notice that you will be knitting more than 5 sts of green together. You cannot carry a float (unused yarn between one color change and the next) more than 5 sts. (You can carry less, but not more.) That means you need to tack the unused yarn somewhere between the first and last green stitch. Tacking gives you shorter floats. Lets do that. Knit approximately half the green sts for that grouping. Lay the unused strand (white) over the green and knit the next stitch so that the tack is snug. (Thats all there is to it.) Knit the remaining green sts for that grouping.

Continue knitting the remainder of the row the same way. Check the tension of all the floats again before moving on to the next row. (From this point forward, I wont remind you to check float tension. Just know you need to do it.)

Row 22  a purl row:

On this row, you will be working the chart from left to right. Purl across each of the sts of the last green grouping from the previous row. Bring the white strand under and over (across the top of) the green strand, knit that stitch. This was done to lock the yarn in place for the current row. Continue to purl across the row, changing colors according to the chart and tacking where necessary. Remember to place the new color strand over the old color strand for the first stitch of each color change.

Row 23  a knit row:

On this row you will be working the chart from right to left. Knit one less green stitch than was knit for the last set of green sts at the end of the previous row. Bring the white strand under and over (across the top of) the green strand, knit that stitch. Continue to knit across the row using the same method used in Row 14 (or 21).

After completing the Fair-Isle rows, cut the white yarn, leaving a tail long enough to weave it. Knit the 3 solid green rows as shown in the chart. (From this point forward, with the exception of the green yarn already in use, it will be easier to use bobbins.)

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Part 5 - Intarsia:

Intarsia involves a special way to twist the yarn when changing yarn colors to avoid gaps (holes). When you change colors after twisting, the unused yarn is dropped (not carried behind as is done with Fair-Isle) while you continue to knit. If at any time youre in doubt, twist. One thing to watch out for is your tension. Too much tension and the work will bunch. Too little tension and there will be gaps (holes). The key to preventing them is, after knitting the first stitch in a new color, to pull the old color yarn up as close to your work as possible for each and every color change. Watch the video and look at the photos in the second link. Then things will begin to make sense. The video and photo tutorials are excellent, but I would like to explain a few things before you look at them: (1) You may hold the yarn differently than as presented in the video or photo tutorials; (2) even they only cover how to do a right-hand or left-hand slant when the change occurs one stitch away, you will still use the same techniques when the slants occur more than one stitch away; and (3) in the video, the first row is a purl row. The links are still useful, though. When you twist more than one stitch away, it will be that much more important to keep your yarn close to your work for those color changes to take extra care in avoiding gaps (holes).

Intarsia:
Video Tutorial:




The above link has been provided courtesy of Marlene Dysert - https://www.youtube.com/user/MarleneD1216/about; Marlene Dysert on YouTube; http://detroitknitter.blogspot.com/; DetroitKnitter on Ravelry.

Information and Drawings:
http://www.vickimeldrum.com/Intarsia.html
MP3 Video Download (do download it):
http://www.vickimeldrum.com/files/increasing_motif_stitches___working_in_tails.wmv
The above two links have been provided courtesy of Vicki Meldrum and Vicky Designs - www.vickimeldrum.com ; VickiDesigns on Ravelry.

Photo Tutorial:
http://www.purlbee.com/Intarsia-knitting-tutorial/2008/6/30/Intarsia-tutorial.html
The above link has been provided courtesy of Purl Soho and PurlBee - www.purlbee.com; purlsoho on Ravelry.

How to Twist: Place the tip of your right needle into the next stitch, drop the old (previous) color. With the new color under (behind) the old color, continue knitting the stitch.

NOTE 1: Right and left slants refer to how a slant occurs on the side you are working on at that moment, not the right (knit) side of your work.

NOTE 2: When you have completed three (3) rows of 3 white stitches for the ball at the end Santas stocking cap, look to see how full the ball looks to you. If you feel it needs to be longer, then knit the fourth row according to the chart. If you feel that three (3) rows of 3 white stitches is sufficient, then replace the 3 white stitches on the fourth row (for the ball) with 3 green stitches.

First Row of Intarsia:

On the first row of Intarsia, where Santas stocking cap begins, begin the row with a green bobbin of yarn. Knit across until you come to the last stitch to be knitted in green before your first color change. Before working on the last green stitch:

Place the tip of the right needle into that stitch. Pick up a bobbin of red yarn. Place the red over the green with the loose end on the left side hanging down on the wrong side and leaving a tail long enough to weave it. Finish knitting the stitch. That secures the red yarn.

With the green bobbin hanging down, knit the first red stitch. Pull up the green yarn close to your work. 
Continue knitting in red until you reach the last stitch to be knitted in red. Before working on the last red stitch:

Place the tip of the right needle into that stitch. Pick up a new bobbin of green yarn. Place the green over the red with the loose end on the left side hanging down on the wrong side and leaving a tail long enough to weave it. Finish knitting the stitch. That secures the green yarn.

With the red bobbin hanging down, knit the first green stitch. Pull up the red yarn close to your work. Continue knitting in green for the rest of the row. Turn.

EVEN THOUGH THE NEXT ROW IS A PURL ROW, THE USE OF THE TERM KNIT WILL BE USED INTERCHANGEABLY TO MEAN STOCKINETTE STITCH.

Your color patterns will continue in one of three ways: (1) vertical, where the color change on your current row is occurring in the same location as the previous row; (2) right-hand slant, where the color change of your current row goes one or more stitches to the right of the previous row; or (3) left-hand slant, where the color change of your current row goes one or more stitches to the left of the previous row.

With vertical or right-hand slants, you always twist the yarn. With the left-hand slant, you do not have to twist the yarn. [However, I tried not twisting left-hand slants and sometimes it left gaps (holes), even after making sure that both the old and new yarn was pulled up close to my work where the twists occurred and in the following row when I came to those same spots. Thats when I changed my tactics to always twisting left-hand slants. Whether you twist or not, the only important thing is not to leave gaps (holes).] If you are changing colors more than one stitch away, you still twist the yarn using the same technique, but just be absolutely sure that both colors of yarn are knitted close to the work so that there are no gaps (holes).

NOTE: Try to avoid frogging Intarsia rows by paying special attention to bunching or gaps (holes) as you knit. When you are done knitting a row, check the whole row again. If you have to frog, then at least its only that one row. Under no circumstances should you take the work off the needles. (Imagine what a mess youd have on your hands, which is why it is best to catch any problems while you are still at any given row.)

Okay, its time to put all the italicized Intarsia notes into practice. Ill walk you through the next row.

Second Row of Intarsia:

Knit with green until you have reached the last stitch to be knitted in green (one less than previous row). Unwind enough yarn to work with from your red bobbin so there is no extra tension. Before working on that last stitch, place the tip of the right needle into the next stitch. With one green stitch still on your left needle, place the green yarn over the red yarn and knit the first red stitch.

Congratulations! You have just completed your first right-hand slant by twisting. Give yourself a pat on the back!

Continue to knit with red according to your chart. When you are ready to change to green, it is a left-hand slant, so you do not have to twist if you dont want to. Place the green over the red with the loose end on the left side hanging down on the wrong side and leaving a tail long enough to weave it. Knit the last red stitch. Continue knitting with green for the rest of the row. Turn.

Continue changing colors in this manner through the rest of the Intarsia rows.

Decreases at the Beginning and End of Rows (before reaching Part 6):
Beginning of knit row: SKP
End of Knit Row: K2Tog
Beginning of Purl Row: SPP
End of a Purl Row: P2Tog

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Part 6  Completing the Leg:

After working 95 rows, Sl 15 sts from each end onto stitch holders for the heel. These will be called the heel stitches in Part 8. (If you increased the amount of ribbing rows, remember to increase 95 rows to the new number.)

NOTE: You might be tempted to weave in the ends of the yarn. Dont! You may need to snug up yarn ends later on. If you weave all the yarn ends in, you wont be able to.

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## Jimcasmom

I did check w/Ginnie on this and she gave me permission to post what I have done on the stockings I have made in the past. I have added the last 2 digits of the year I make the stocking for the recipient on the back side near the heel. I tried duplicate stitching it and it came out awful, so on any others I just pencil it in on the chart I'm working on and knit it on. That way it is easier to remember when the stocking was actually made. Our minds to get cluttered w/trivia after a while and at times I can't remember when I made certain things. Oh and now I always take a pix before the stocking leaves my house.


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## RookieRetiree

Great idea...I think I'll start putting the years on the toes...and always need to have pictures before they go to their forever homes.



Jimcasmom said:


> I did check w/Ginnie on this and she gave me permission to post what I have done on the stockings I have made in the past. I have added the last 2 digits of the year I make the stocking for the recipient on the back side near the heel. I tried duplicate stitching it and it came out awful, so on any others I just pencil it in on the chart I'm working on and knit it on. That way it is easier to remember when the stocking was actually made. Our minds to get cluttered w/trivia after a while and at times I can't remember when I made certain things. Oh and now I always take a pix before the stocking leaves my house.


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## laurfrances

I would take a picture of mine, but I don't feel as if I've made enough progress yet. I am starting the green rows before the Santa. I could post one anyhow if you like. I viewed the videos on using more than one color in the hope that I will do better with that this time around. I know my biggest challenge will be when it's time to turn the heel.


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## GinB

laurfrances said:


> I would take a picture of mine, but I don't feel as if I've made enough progress yet. I am starting the green rows before the Santa. I could post one anyhow if you like. I viewed the videos on using more than one color in the hope that I will do better with that this time around. I know my biggest challenge will be when it's time to turn the heel.


If you've like the instructions so far, turning the heel will be easy peasy...as long as you keep distractions to a minimum....and don't put your knitting down before Row 13 is done. Don't worry, you'll do fine!!!

i highly recommend you turn off the radio, TV and maybe even the phone when you are doing Part 9 - Turning the Heel. The knitting of it won't take long, but you really need to concentrate. The last think you want to do is get distracted or, Heaven Forbid, walk away while doing it. (That is a definite no no!!!)


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## GinB

INSTRUCTIONS (Next Segment):


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Part 7  Instep:

On the 32 center stitches, work instep by working 32 rows more (the bricks) from chart, making sure that you twist the last stitch on Rows 4, 10 and 16. 

Slip the center stitches onto another stitch holder.

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Part 8 - To Shape Heel:

Slip the 30 heel sts (15 sts stitches from each end) onto a double-point needle and, with red yarn, work as follows:

P across row on wrong side.

Row 1  (Right side of work) *Sl 1 as if to purl, K 1, repeat from * across row.
Row 2  Sl 1, then P across row.
Repeat these two rows 11 times more (24 rows).

NOTE: The above stitching method to shape a heel is called Eye of Partridge.

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## GinB

laurfrances said:


> Any tips on how to avoid curling of the stockinette rows (besides blocking after the fact?)


Laurfrances,

You began with rows of ribbing at the top. That prevents curling. The end stitches will turn in a bit, but that shouldn't create a problem. Am I missing something? What curling?

Ginny


----------



## GinB

laurfrances said:


> I would take a picture of mine, but I don't feel as if I've made enough progress yet. I am starting the green rows before the Santa. I could post one anyhow if you like. I viewed the videos on using more than one color in the hope that I will do better with that this time around. I know my biggest challenge will be when it's time to turn the heel.


Laurfrances,

Stop worrying about how much progress you are making. The only important thing is that you are going at your own pace and you are having fun with the knitting. I love how your Part 3 green and white (Fair-Isle) rows turned out. I don't see any puckering and the stitches look like there are no gaps. Excellent work!!!

Ginny


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## GinB

elliebe said:


> so far so good .i continued stranding the first row of santa hat but realized and added another red to the other side on the way back.


Ellie,

It happens. Why do you think I made the extra chart that has the stitch numbers for each row? (Certain things in my instructions are a result of personal experience. I was trying to prevent others from making the same mistakes.)

Is it fixed now?

Ginny (that's how I spell my name)


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## JoanValJoan

Hi all - some of my tasks for this year were Intasia, Fair-Isle and using charts. Well....two out of three isn't bad. The charts are going to do me in :-( I think I'll have to plug away until it becomes easier.
Not very pleased with my work so far but I'm sending along a photo anyway.


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## Lynnhelen

Here it is so far. The face was bothering me. It looked naked? I have several lovely fleeces here so decided Santa should have a real beard!

Still working on bricks...


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## JoanValJoan

Thanks Catlover - my stitches are not as even as I'd like but I am happy I have gotten Intasia and Fair-Isle conquered. I finally cheated on the chart after frogging countless times. I sat down last night and wrote out the chart line by line. I don't think my mind is programmed for reading charts. Although, I do think I'll try it again sometime soon. Just because I promised myself I'd learn how to do it.


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## RookieRetiree

Why aren't you pleased? It looks great!!



JoanValJoan said:


> Hi all - some of my tasks for this year were Intasia, Fair-Isle and using charts. Well....two out of three isn't bad. The charts are going to do me in :-( I think I'll have to plug away until it becomes easier.
> Not very pleased with my work so far but I'm sending along a photo anyway.


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## Lynnhelen

JoanValJoan said:


> Lynnhelen, OMG his beard is awesome!


Thanks soooo much. The locks are from a Cotswold fleece.
I am a very loose knitter. Had to go down a size on needle. After seeing Catlovers nice even tight stitches I feel like my knitting is even looser! Oh well, it is only knitting! I am also used to wool. Most of the yarn I am using is from an old stash someone gave me. It is acrylic & blends. Not quite used to how it reacts! 
BTW, I LOVE your avatar. Perfect for Salem, Mass! 
Back to the bricks....


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## GinB

JoanValJoan said:


> My stitches are not as even as I'd like. Perhaps when I'm further along, I'll turn to the back and see if I can tighten them up a bit.


Joan,

That's a good idea. If you need to tighten up stitches, just be sure to do them several stitches away from any color changes if that is possible. You don't want gaps.

I have done this stocking using straight needles and circular needles. For the purpose of tightening up stitches, straight needles worked better for me.

That said, others have no problem achieving the same results with circulars. It's a personal choice. What works for that person is all that counts.

Ginny


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## Lynnhelen

GinB said:


> Lynn,
> 
> See? You are creating your own original, with Santa facing the other way, the beard and a different color for the grout around the bricks. Your knitting looks perfect and the stocking looks fantastic! Good job!!!
> 
> Ginny


Wow! You made my day. I was really not liking it so much. The beard made me happier with my loose knitting. The brick colors were because I didn't have enough original red & white! You are a great teacher, you notice everything!
I will put it aside after bricks are done. Maybe Saturday morning I will attempt the heel. My eyes are quite blurry from all the knitting. It is just so much stinkin' fun I keep on going!


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## GinB

JoanValJoan said:


> Thanks Catlover - my stitches are not as even as I'd like but I am happy I have gotten Intasia and Fair-Isle conquered. I finally cheated on the chart after frogging countless times. I sat down last night and wrote out the chart line by line. I don't think my mind is programmed for reading charts. Although, I do think I'll try it again sometime soon. Just because I promised myself I'd learn how to do it.


Sorry to hear you had problem getting accustomed to the chart. It is "different".

Maybe these would help:

(1) make notations in the margins to indicate the direction you should be knitting in;

(2) Place a blank piece of paper below and above your current row so that you are only showing the current row; and

(3) Use the numbered chart and *count your stitches* before moving on to the next row!!!!

Don't give up on charts. Try again using the above helps and keep me informed. We'll figure out a way to make this work for you.

Ginny


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## laurfrances

That is coming along great! I love the beard!


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## GinB

laurfrances said:


> Using stockinette stitches results in "curled" fabric (near the bottom where I am working). It's not flat like when I use garter stitch. I know that this won't be a problem after it's finished and sewn together.


Laur,

At the end of Part 6 (when the leg has been completed), Part 7 (the instep - top of the foot) and Part 8 (where you will turn the heel), stitches will be put onto stitch holders and, yes, they may curl a bit at those points, but don't be concerned because it won't be long before they are all back on needles.

Ginny


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## GinB

Maryannee said:


> I'm just now starting my sock! Working the white. The intarsia scares me some but I'm going to do it...I really am...yes, I am!


Maryannee,

First, make sure you print out the DETAILED instructions. It will take you through everything in little steps.

Then, (before beginning your stocking) go back to the very beginning of this workshop and read all the posts. There is important information within, and not just on the first page.

Once you get into the intarsia instructions, you will be asking yourself why you were so concerned in the first place.

Bottom line? You'll do just fine. If you need help, let me know.

Ginny


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## GinB

JoanValJoan said:


> Hi all - some of my tasks for this year were Intasia, Fair-Isle and using charts. Well....two out of three isn't bad. The charts are going to do me in :-( I think I'll have to plug away until it becomes easier.
> Not very pleased with my work so far but I'm sending along a photo anyway.


Joan,

What's wrong with your work? It looks pretty darn good to me!!! The stitches look great. It looks like you even changed the background color to black. It really makes the red pop out. Nice.

Ginny


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## karhyunique

I'm just starting the rows after the names, the one that will have some green, I seem to be on a purl row for that row is that right? These are my stockings so far I'm happy with them,enjoying the pattern,my yarn colors both the red and green are skeins I bought at Michigan Fiberfest, all wool with some shading,not traditional but I like it so far ha ha. Kathy


----------



## GinB

karhyunique said:


> I'm just starting the rows after the names, the one that will have some green, I seem to be on a purl row for that row is that right? These are my stockings so far I'm happy with them,enjoying the pattern,my yarn colors both the red and green are skeins I bought at Michigan Fiberfest, all wool with some shading,not traditional but I like it so far ha ha. Kathy


Kathy,

Yes, the first row of Fair-Isle (where you have a combination of green and white stitches for 3 rows) does begin with a purl row.

Your stockings are looking great. Your ribbing is nice and snug, which I like. Did you make your ribbing longer? It looks like you might have. You used the same color yarn for the name as you did for the ribbing. What yarn is that? It looks custom dyed...really nice.

The color scheme you choose makes it look more antique, which falls right in with the fact that the original pattern is vintage. Very different. And the Fair-Isle looks very nice, too. I like your stocking!!!

Ginny


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## JoanValJoan

GinB said:


> Joan,
> 
> What's wrong with your work? It looks pretty darn good to me!!! The stitches look great. It looks like you even changed the background color to black. It really makes the red pop out. Nice.
> 
> Ginny


Ginny
Thanks for the kind words. Some of the stitches are a bit wonky but I believe I can fix that as I weave in the 500 :lol: yarn tails.
BTW - I did go back to using the chart and it's getting easier. I just hate it when something defeats me.
Also, the background is hunter green. The picture isn't showing the colors very well.


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## GinB

JoanValJoan said:


> Ginny
> Thanks for the kind words. Some of the stitches are a bit wonky but I believe I can fix that as I weave in the 500 :lol: yarn tails.
> BTW - I did go back to using the chart and it's getting easier. I just hate it when something defeats me.
> Also, the background is hunter green. The picture isn't showing the colors very well.


Joan,

I'm so glad you didn't give up on knitting with a chart and that it's getting easier for you. That is a fantastic accomplishment. Give yourself a pat on the back - you deserve it. You are evolving as a knitter and that is a very good thing.

Ginny


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## karhyunique

Thanks Ginny it is a hand dyed yarn,glad the purl row is correct. Thanks for all your work &#128144; kathy


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## elliebe

hi . im still working on the santa.. yes its fun..and the more i get finished , the more fun it gets..


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## laurfrances

GinB said:


> How is everyone doing tonight? Can you tell me where you are at in the pattern so that I know if it's time to post more sections of the stocking instructions?
> 
> For those of you who have not shared photos of your progress, I'd still like to see them.
> 
> Two questions...
> 
> (1) Something I had very much hoped was that everyone would have fun knitting this project? Are you having fun or not? Be honest!
> 
> (2) Has it been easier than you thought it would be, what you expected, or more difficult?
> 
> Ginny


I am having a great time so far; the back of the work is sloppier than I would like though. I thought I would have been farther along by now but I am making some progress.


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## wilnita

GinB said:


> How is everyone doing tonight? Can you tell me where you are at in the pattern so that I know if it's time to post more sections of the stocking instructions?
> 
> For those of you who have not shared photos of your progress, I'd still like to see them.
> 
> Two questions...
> 
> (1) Something I had very much hoped was that everyone would have fun knitting this project? Are you having fun or not? Be honest!
> 
> (2) Has it been easier than you thought it would be, what you expected, or more difficult?
> 
> Ginny


Just going to start Santa tomorrow .Enjoying this and seeing everyones progess .I put ggdaughters name in mine. Sorry I can't put picture in my blanky blanky scanner acting up.Have to wait til gdaughter (my Tecky LOL) comes over and sets me straight


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## Crafting101

I am having fun - I didn't knit today but that is OK - this is not to be stressed over. I have knitted in color patterns before but never called "fair isle"... some of the terms are new to me but it all makes sense. After I finish a section, I sometimes wish I had done it different BUT I think that is natural and I am making notes as to what I like for yarns and what I do not.... SO, learning, having fun and NOT pushing myself - there is still time after all...

Edey


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## JoanValJoan

I'm having a great time with this stocking. Not only have I accomplished three new knitting techniques.....my head is spinning with all the color work patterns I want to get down on graph paper.

I'm about to start the "bricks" next. It's almost 11:30pm. Time to put the knitting down before I make a boo boo.

Thanks Ginny for this wonderful workshop.

Joan


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## Maryannee

I need to purchase some yarn bobbins...I'm ready for them. Once I get them I can start on Santa. I am enjoying the posts and am anxious to get started on the "big guy". I tried making a similar stocking a few years ago and failed. I was happy to see the workshop so I could give it another try. Your pattern is nicer anyway. . It's a first...using a chart. It's definately a learning experience.


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## GinB

Here are some of my photos. I made the first stocking for my GD, Isabelle, using Fair-Isle for the name and putting 2 spaces between each letter (my daughter's idea). Once it was completed, she didn't like the fact that most of Isabelle's name could not be seen when the stocking was hung. Well...DUH...it's a long name!!!

So...back to the drawing board I went and started another one. This time around, my daughter decided she wanted the name done in Duplicate Stitch. Unfortunately, the memory card in my phone went on the fritz as I was downloading the photos. Luckily, I got most...but not all.

Here are some I was able to retrieve. BTW, the stocking is still under construction. (I set it aside to get the workshop started. It's time to pick the needles back up again, so you all can see it finished.)


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## Lynnhelen

GinB said:


> Here are some of my photos. I made the first stocking for my GD, Isabelle, using Fair-Isle for the name and putting 2 spaces between each letter (my daughter's idea). Once it was completed, she didn't like the fact that most of Isabelle's name could not be seen when the stocking was hung. Well...DUH...it's a long name!!!
> 
> So...back to the drawing board I went and started another one. This time around, my daughter decided she wanted the name done in Duplicate Stitch. Unfortunately, the memory card in my phone went on the fritz as I was downloading the photos. Luckily, I got most...but not all.
> 
> Here are some I was able to retrieve. BTW, the stocking is still under construction. (I set it aside to get the workshop started. It's time to pick the needles back up again, so you all can see it finished.)


Ginny your work is even more amazing close up! I really like the angora look. The back is incredible! It was nice to see your bobbins. They are really full. I wasn't putting enough on mine and so have several more ends. Now I know. I love the visuals.

I am starting a new job today so won't be knitting. I would like to start heel first thing Saturday morning. For me that means 4am! I thought I would ask my question now: I have read over Part 8 several times to understand how the heel will work. It says to slip the 15 sts from each holder onto DP needle. When you do the first Purl row does that join the two sets of stitches? Or do I use 2 DP needles on each side and work them separately? 
I read through the other posts but found no reference to this.


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## Lynnhelen

Crafting101 said:


> I am having fun - I didn't knit today but that is OK - this is not to be stressed over. I have knitted in color patterns before but never called "fair isle"... some of the terms are new to me but it all makes sense. After I finish a section, I sometimes wish I had done it different BUT I think that is natural and I am making notes as to what I like for yarns and what I do not.... SO, learning, having fun and NOT pushing myself - there is still time after all...
> 
> Edey


Edey what a great attitude. I feel the same way. Good idea on the note taking for different yarns. If I do another I will most likely use wool. I think I don't care for my stocking because it isn't the material I would make for myself. It is a baby shower gift and I chose yarns & colors from my stash I felt would work best for their household. The shower is also in 2 weeks so I have to push myself a bit! 
Thanks again for such wonderful insight!


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## Maryannee

Thank you for the pictures of the back and bobbins. You are doing a lot to help us succeed. I really appreciate your direction. Thank you soooo much.


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## GinB

Lynnhelen said:


> Ginny your work is even more amazing close up! I really like the angora look. The back is incredible! It was nice to see your bobbins. They are really full. I wasn't putting enough on mine and so have several more ends. Now I know. I love the visuals.
> 
> I am starting a new job today so won't be knitting. I would like to start heel first thing Saturday morning. For me that means 4am! I thought I would ask my question now: I have read over Part 8 several times to understand how the heel will work. It says to slip the 15 sts from each holder onto DP needle. When you do the first Purl row does that join the two sets of stitches? Or do I use 2 DP needles on each side and work them separately?
> I read through the other posts but found no reference to this.


Lynn,

Congratulations on the new job. Of course that comes first.

All 30 stitches need to be slipped onto one (1) DPN and, yes, that will join the two sections of heel stitches together, to be knitted as one.

That was an excellent (and important) question. I will make a clarification to the files and replace the downloads with updated copies. I'll notify everyone in a new post when that happens.

I do recommend filling up your bobbins as far as you possibly can (until the yarn won't stay on the bobbin anymore). Once you have finished using a certain color in a certain area (and it won't be picked up again within a few rows in the same general location, cut the bobbin yarn, leaving a tail to weave in.

Before deciding whether to use the yarn still left on a bobbin, look and see how much is left on it. The fuller the bobbin, the less yarn ends you will might have to weave in. If the new area to be knitted with that color is small enough that you feel what you have on the bobbin is enough for that area, then by all means use it. If you have doubts about that, another option would be to begin with a new fuller bobbin. It's your call.

Thank you for posting your question, Lynn. It was an excellent one. Also, I'm glad you brought up bobbins. I am going to update my files and post revised downloads that will take these issues into account. Everyone *should* download them, but it is not necessary for anyone to have to reprint them...unless of course you want to.

Ginny


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## karhyunique

Ginny, the back of your stocking looks so good, I hope I can do it half as well. I'm attaching the pictures of my red and green yarn, I found this yarn at a fiber festival and it spoke to me so.... I think the colors though not traditional will come out nice. It's all wool the green is a shaded pine tree looking green and the red is much darker than the picture and to me it looks like the dark velvet red with its shading. The other yarn I'm using is wool from my stash. I'm not planning on doing the angora yarn I hope it will still look good. I just wound my bobbins so I can knit away. Kathy


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## GinB

karhyunique said:


> Ginny, the back of your stocking looks so good, I hope I can do it half as well. I'm attaching the pictures of my red and green yarn, I found this yarn at a fiber festival and it spoke to me so.... I think the colors though not traditional will come out nice. It's all wool the green is a shaded pine tree looking green and the red is much darker than the picture and to me it looks like the dark velvet red with its shading. The other yarn I'm using is wool from my stash. I'm not planning on doing the angora yarn I hope it will still look good. I just wound my bobbins so I can knit away. Kathy


Kathy,
I love the colors of the wool yarn you are using - excellent choices. It's not supposed to be someone else's tradition. It's supposed to be yours. I can't wait to see photos of your stocking as you progress through its construction.

Ginny


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## wilnita

Here is how far I am ,enjoying this. It is really red like Christmas red but not showing it sorry


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## jadancey

I was only able to find red and green yarn at Walmart (my only LYS) so have to wait until Monday when my daughter is going to a different Walmart to look for the other colors. Have never done any color work and am so looking forward to trying this stocking. It's so cute, thank you for teaching this workshop.


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## Lynnhelen

Hi Ginny,
I am playing with the needle on the 15 sts on either side of the bricks for the heel shaping. Is the join at the back of the stocking or the front where bricks are? I am a bit confused. I want to join it in the back where the green yarn edges are. Not sure if this is correct. For some reason i can't visualize this!
Lynn


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## knit1purl2

Here's pics of where I am right now. Recuperating from knee replacement surgery. Exercising five times a day. So, trying to fit the knitting in when I can.


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## GinB

wilnita said:


> Here is how far I am ,enjoying this. It is really red but not showing it sorry


Wilnita,
Ahhh, another new tradition in the making. Very nice. Your knitting came out beautifully. The Fair-Isle sections (the name and name and Part 4 - green and white rows) look absolutely wonderful.

Ginny


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## GinB

INSTRUCTIONS (Next Segment)

This is being posted not to rush anyone, but because a few are close to reaching the next step. You will be amazed at how quickly this section will go, but you MUST have the ability to concentrate.

- Avoid distractions if at ALL possible while knitting Rows 1 through 13 ! ! ! ! !

- If it helps you to keep track or to help you concentrate, use a blank piece of blank paper to cover the rows above and below your current row on your chart.

- Remember that, when you are decreasing on a KNIT row, slip as if to knit, and when you are decreasing on a PURL row, slip as if to purl.

Now that I have given you some helpful hints, do not worry about this section at all. Just take it slow. You're going to love this part. (I am so excited for you.)

Photos of this section (my stocking currently under construction) have been provided at the end of this post.

This is the part of stocking that I had the most fun with the first time I knit it. Why? Because this is the part where I turned a flat piece of knitting (pretty though it is) into something 3-dimensional...to be able to see the actual foot taking shape...knowing I did that all by myself. (I am not kidding...I've got a big smile on my face as I type this.)

Now go...and have fun. Make your stocking 3-dimensional. I'm here for you if you have any questions and I'm looking forward to seeing photos of this stage in your stocking construction...hint...hint.

= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =

Part 9  To Turn Heel: 

Before turning the heel, give yourself sufficient time to complete Rows 1 through 10. Be careful not to leave gaps (holes). DO NOT WALK AWAY OR GET DISTRACTED WHILE KNITTING ROWS 1  13 ! ! !

Row 1  K 18, K2Tog, K 1, turn (29 sts remain on needle)
Row 2  Sl 1, P 8, P2Tog, P 1, turn (28 sts remain on needle).
Row 3  Sl 1, K 9, K2Tog, K 1, turn (27 sts remain on needle).
Row 4  Sl 1, P 10, P2Tog, P 1, turn (26 sts remain on needle).
Row 5  Sl 1, K 11, K2Tog, K 1, turn (25 sts remain on needle).
Row 6  Sl 1, P 12, P2Tog, P 1, turn (24 sts remain on needle).
Row 7  Sl 1, K 13, K2Tog, K 1, turn (23 sts remain on needle).
Row 8  Sl 1, P 14, P2Tog, P 1, turn (22 sts remain on needle).
Row 9  Sl 1, K 15, K2Tog, K 1, turn (21 sts remain on needle).
Row 10  Sl 1, P 16, P2Tog, P 1, turn (20 sts remain on needle).
Row 11  Sl 1, K 16, K2Tog, K1, turn (19 sts remain on needle).
Row 12  Sl 1, P 16, P2Tog (18 sts remain on needle). Pick up and P 12 sts (both loops of each stitch) along the side of the heel, turn (30 sts remain on needle).

NOTE: When you did the Eye of Partridge in Part 8, there were 24 rows, with every other row (12 rows) having every other stitch slipped  not knitted. It will be the end stitches of those 12 rows where you will be picking up 12 stitches on each side of the heel. As you pick up those stitches, you will notice that it causes a ridge on the inside of the stocking. Do not be concerned.

Row 13  K across the 30 sts on needle, pick up and K 12 sts (both loops of each stitch) along the other side of heel (make sure your yarn is snug up to the stocking before picking up that first stitch to prevent a gap from occurring), turn (42 sts remain on needle).

Row 14  P across row, turn.
Row 15  SKP, K across row up to last 3 sts, (ending with) K2Tog, turn (40 sts remain on needle).
Row 16  P across row, turn.
Row 17  SKP, K across row to last 3 sts, K2Tog, turn (38 sts remain on needle).
Row 18  P across row, turn.
Row 19  SKP, K across row to last 3 sts, K2Tog, turn (36 sts remain on needle).
Row 20  P across row, turn.
Row 21  SKP, K across row to last 3 sts, K2Tog, turn (34 sts remain on needle).
Row 22  P across row, turn.
Row 23  SKP, K across row to last 3 sts, K2Tog, turn (32 sts remain on needle).
Row 24  P across row, turn.
Row 25  K across row, turn.

Continue in Stockinette Stitch until the same length as the instep, ending on a purl row.

You now have 32 sts from the heel and 32 sts from the instep for a total of 64 sts. Divide all the sts onto 4 double-point needles (using the 5th needle as your working needle) as follows, and knit as shown:

With 4th Needle, K 16 to center of heel;
1st Needle: K remaining 16 sts;
2nd Needle: K across the first 16 sts of instep;
3rd Needle: K the remaining 16 sts of instep;
4th Needle: K 16 to center of heel.

NOTE: If you are not used to knitting with double-point needles, it is advisable to hold your yarn snuggly when you knit (or purl) the first and last stitch of each needle so you dont have gaps between your needles.

= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =

Part 10  Completing the Leg: 

K two additional rows.
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =

...and before you ask, I have no idea why I still had a green bobbin connected to the stocking at that point. 

Ginny


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## peachy51

I am so totally jazzed tonight/this morning! :thumbup: 

I have never done Fair Isle or Intarsia before and wasn't sure I could do it ... but I started my stocking tonight and got the ribbing and the name band done ... and it is so thrilling to see my granddaughter's name actually knitted into the piece! I can't believe I did it ....

Roooooaaaarrrrr ... I AM WOMAN!!!! HAHAHAHAHA

Next we will see how I do with many, many bobbins hanging off at once. I'm thinking the TV will have to go off when I get to that part. :lol:


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## Lynnhelen

Maryannee said:


> Thank you for the pictures of the back and bobbins. You are doing a lot to help us succeed. I really appreciate your direction. Thank you soooo much.


I agree with Maryanee!
Here is what I did at 4:30 this morning! I couldn't sleep. I knit the heel, left the house to go grocery shopping, came back and the cat had my stocking in the other room! There was a trail of red yarn through 3 rooms. Thank goodness my heel stitches stayed put. Now I will try the next step.
Thanks for the pictures of what the heel is supposed to look like. This is amazingly wonderful help.


----------



## GinB

GrannyRose said:


> Cleared the deck and started my stocking this afternoon. There is no way that I am going to attempt knitting a name across the top. Concentration lagged in the first green row count... which had to be unpicked. LoL. Oh my!... what have I got myself into? It will be a triumph if I make it to the end of this project. It is either the wool or my knickers that will get in a knot!!!!!!!!
> Fortunately, am practising this one on 8ply from my stash.


Rose,

(1) Begin with a positive attitude. Say to yourself, "I can do this!!!"

(2) If you are tired (a good indication is if you cannot concentrate, though lack of concentration could also be outside influences), get some rest before sitting down with yarn and needles.

(3) Take your time. The instructions have been written in a way that makes it so much easier than you may have experienced in the past. You'll see.

(4) Challenge yourself to do this. It IS do-able. Give yourself a chance to learn something new. In fact, expect it. Stay positive.

(5) Don't stress.

(6) Allow yourself to have fun in the "learning". Everything does not have to be all serious.

What you have gotten yourself into is a *fun-to-knit* Christmas stocking that you will be able to give to someone very special - a stocking that person will enjoy for many years to come. You can do this and it *will* be fun. Don't believe me. Just read all the prior posts.

What will you get out of this - just you??? The knowledge that you met the challenge and gained new skills that can be carried on to other new and exciting projects...ones that you might not have considered before. It will open new doors for you.

I really want to know how you are doing. Keep me informed, Rose.

Ginny


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## GinB

Lynnhelen said:


> Hi Ginny,
> I am playing with the needle on the 15 sts on either side of the bricks for the heel shaping. Is the join at the back of the stocking or the front where bricks are? I am a bit confused. I want to join it in the back where the green yarn edges are. Not sure if this is correct. For some reason i can't visualize this!
> Lynn


Lynn,
The brick stitches will be at the ends and the green stitches will be in the middle. From this point on, those two sections will be knitted as one and will be referred to as "heel stitches" in Part 8, where you will "shape" the heel.

Ginny


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## GinB

prico48 said:


> I am plugging along with this challenge. I've never done color work before and have been laughing outloud at my "all thumbs" approach! . Reminder to self: buy a ruler with magnification! This entire project is going to give me a new skill set. My daughter finally (40 yrs old)wants to learn to knit - won't she think I'm brilliant? Thank you for offering to teach this class - I'm going to really benefit from it!!


Prico,

I like your attitude. Yes, she will. Doesn't that put a smile on your face? A new skill set...that's a great way to put it. It will open doors to other knitting projects that you might not have considered. Picture Burgess Meredith in the movie, Grumpier Old Men" saying, "I've got it ALL!"


Having a set of instructions that I can see without a magnifying glass has been a problem for me for quite some time. That's why I typically copy patterns into a Word file and enlarge everything.

If anyone would like a set of instructions that has a larger font, I will do that gladly. Just be aware that it increases the file size slightly, and *most definitely* increases the amount of pages you will have to print. (That's the reason I didn't make the font larger in the first place.)

Let me know how it's going and don't forget...photos please. 

Ginny


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## JoanValJoan

Lynnhelen said:


> You have an awesome attitude about all this. I love the idea about the sweater! Hmmmm, maybe I will use this idea also. Sometimes things just turn out to be happy mistakes as my kindergarten kids say!


Lynnhelen
:thumbup: 
Life is to short to sweat the small stuff. My attitude about kintting is
"I'm gonna be knitting something anyway." So, frogging and restarting isn't an issue. :lol:

@ Ginny - it's so much better now that I've learned some new skills.
The first attempt was practice!


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## GinB

Thorsmom said:


> This may be a silly question, but at what stage are the ends weaved in? At the very end or as I go along? I'm approaching the toe section and realized there a zillion threads hanging.
> 
> Thank you so much for doing this workshop. I very much appreciate your time and effort in making this available for all of us.


Thorsmom,

The ends of the yarn should not be woven in until you are ready to sew the seams together, which does not take place until you get to Part 13. There are very good reasons for not doing it sooner. I know they're probably bugging you, but take my advice and wait until Part 13.

Ginny


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## Lynnhelen

JoanValJoan said:


> Lynnhelen
> :thumbup:
> Life is to short to sweat the small stuff. My attitude about kintting is
> "I'm gonna be knitting something anyway." So, frogging and restarting isn't an issue. :lol:
> 
> @ Ginny - it's so much better now that I've learned some new skills.
> The first attempt was practice!


Joan I totally agree! Here is a boquet of flowers for all the KAL friends!

Ginny: The toe is going great now! Thanks so much


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## GinB

peachy51 said:


> Ginny ---
> 
> Quick question on the bobbins. I'm thinking I only need one black bobbin for the bag and the belt. It looks like there are two rows between the main bag and the one stitch at the hand and then two rows and one stitch over to begin the belt.
> 
> Then on the belt buckle is there any problem in using one gold bobbin and tacking it in the middle on each row between the two sides?
> 
> I'm so pumped in learning colorwork and working with the bobbins. I may just venture out after this stocking and make some of the sweater patterns I have just admired from afar!
> 
> I do so hate working with the Red Heart yarn and working on straight needles, but the thrill of seeing my picture is making it all worth it! :thumbup:


Libby,

It is for the toy bag that you need two bobbins. If you watched the Intarsia videos I provided links for, you know that each area of color change requires a separate bobbin. Look at the chart. Notice that the toy bag extends on both sides of Santa's arm/shoulder. That is why two bobbins are necessary.

Here's another option. When you reach the point where you will be dropping the black yarn to continue in red yarn for Santa's shoulder, *IF* you can estimate how much black yarn you need to complete the toy bag from that side, you can clip it, then use what's left for the other side of Santa's shoulder. If you do this, you are going to have to be *very* careful about how much black yarn you leave yourself so you don't run out. Be sure to leave extra yarn for weaving in, too.

If it's just a question of not wanting to go out and buy more bobbins, then an alternative would be to wind a sufficient quantity of yarn around 2-3 fingers, then wind the yarn around all of it a few times and tuck it in.

Now, as to your question about gold yarn, yes there is a problem. The same thing holds true - you need two (2) bobbins. It has to do with where your gold yarn ends on one row and when that same color is needed on the next row.

Once you reach the 8 stitches of black in the center of the belt buckle, in order to use only one bobbin, you would have to carry floats across those 8 stitches for each of those rows. You are supposed to be using the *Intarsia* technique there, not Fair-Isle.

Ginny


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## GinB

Here are some additional views of "Part 9 Turn the Heel" that I created so that you could see what *just* what that part looks like. The white row of yarn at the end of the Eye of Partridge stitches (Part 8 Shape the Heel) is where Part 9 begins. The solid white section is all of Part 9.

Ginny


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## GinB

*INSTRUCTIONS (Next Segments):*

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*Part 11 - To Shape Toe:*

Lay your work down with the bottom of the foot showing and the top of foot facing up. Begin with sts on the left needle. Continuing with red yarn

*Row 1*  1st Needle: K across to last 3 sts on needle, K2Tog, K 1; 2nd Needle: K 1, SKP, K across; 3rd Needle: K across to last 3 sts on needle, K2Tog, K 1; 4th Needle: K 1, SKP, K to end of needle. (15 sts remain on each needle)

*Row 2*  K.

*Row 3*  1st Needle: K across to last 3 sts on needle, K2Tog, K 1; 2nd Needle: K 1, SKP, K across; 3rd Needle: K across to last 3 sts on needle, K2Tog, K 1; 4th Needle: K 1, SKP, K to end of needle. (14 sts remain on each needle)

*Row 4*  K across to the last stitch. Place the tip of the right needle into the last stitch on the left needle. Place the white yarn over the red yarn, leaving a tail to weave in. Knit the last stitch in red. That locks the white yarn into place for the next row.

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*Part 12 - Selecting Which Knitted Toe to Use:*

*If you want to use the Original pattern method* (gathering the yarn at the end of the toe and hanging a bell at the end of it), change to white yarn and repeat the last two rows until 5 sts remain on each needle. Draw remaining sts together and fasten.

*If you want to use the Kitchener Stitch Toe*, which is the method used to make socks and will result in an invisible seam, change to white yarn.

*Row 1*  1st Needle: K across to last 3 sts on needle, K2Tog, K 1; 2nd Needle: K 1, SKP, K across; 3rd Needle: K across to last 3 sts on needle, K2Tog, K 1; 4th Needle: K 1, SKP, K to end of needle. (13 sts remain on each needle)

*Row 2*  Sl 1, K across.

*Row 3*  1st Needle: K across to last 3 sts on needle, K2Tog, K 1; 2nd Needle: K 1, SKP, K across; 3rd Needle: K across to last 3 sts on needle, K2Tog, K 1; 4th Needle: K 1, SKP, K to end of needle. (12 sts remain on each needle)

*Row 4*  K.

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until 10 sts remain on each needle. Combine the 20 sts from 2nd and 3rd Needles onto one needle (the instep  top of the foot). Knit the 10 sts from Needle 1 onto Needle 4 (bottom of the foot). Leave a tail approximately 2 yards long and thread that tail onto a yarn needle.

The trick of making the Kitchener Stitches look like all the other stitches you have knitted is to weave the yarn with large loops (thus the reason for needing a very, VERY long tail), then tightening them up after all 40 stitches have been Kitchener Stitched.

You should now have two needles with 20 sts on each. Hold the needles parallel to each other, with your left index finger in between the needles and holding the first stitches in place to prevent them from falling off the needles.

Any stitch on the needle closest to you is considered a front stitch and any stitch on the needle farthest away is considered a back stitch. While doing the stitches, the yarn always moves under the needle tips, As you finish each set of 1 front stitch and one back stitch, keep your yarn under the needle tips and above the stitches you have already Kitchener Stitched. (You may find it helpful to use the other fingers of your left hand to hold the rest of your work away from the needles at this point.) Before beginning, give yourself sufficient time to complete this entire step. *DO NOT WALK AWAY OR GET DISTRACTED WHILE KNITTING THE KITCHENER STITCH ! ! !*

Lets begin

*Kitchener Stitch*

*Heres the Rhyme:*
↓
*KNIT OFF:* Place the needle into the first front stitch as if you are *knitting* and slide that stitch*off* of the needle.

*PURL ON:* Place the needle into the very next front stitch as if you are *purling* and leave that stitch *on* the needle. You can hold the stitch against your left index finger to prevent it from sliding off if that helps.

*PURL OFF:* Place the needle into the first back stitch as if you are *purling* and slide that stitch *off* the needle.

*KNIT ON:* Place the needle into the very next back stitch as if you are *kniting* and leave that stitch *on* the needle.

Repeat until there is one stitch left on each needle. Knit off the front stitch and purl off the back stitch.

Now, place your hand inside the stocking and, using the blunt end of the needle or a crochet hook, find the very first Kitchener Stitch you made and the one following it. Pull up on the yarn until that section of the stitch matches the size of the surrounding stitches and move the excess yarn out of your way. Pull up the next loop, until that section of the stitch matches the size of the surrounding stitches and move the excess yarn out of the way. You may have to slightly reposition the loops to make sure you are pulling the right one at the right time. As you continue pulling each loop, the excess yarn will get longer and longer. Just keep moving the loop of excess yarn out of the way. If you are careful to match the size of the stitches as you are pulling, when you are done, you will not be able to see the Kitchener Stitches from the rest of the toe. If they are uneven, pull the Kitchener Stitches out, untwist the yarn and try again. Weave in the ends.

*Kitchener Stitch:*

Traditional method using a yarn needle:




The above link was provided courtesy of Kelley Petkun and KnitPicks  _www.knitpicks.com_; _kpkelley_ on Ravelry.

Knitting - _not sewing_:




The above link was provided courtesy of Kathleen - _wipinsanity_ on YouTube; _http://wipinsanity.blogspot.com_; _wipinsanity_ on Ravelry.

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Ginny
http://www.ravelry.com/people/GinB


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## socksaholic

This is probaby in the instructions and I just missed it, but I'm having trouble figuring out the whole bobbin thing. You say we will need 14 bobbins, but how many of each color and how long should they be? Also, I'm not sure when looking at the chart how to figure this out. I looked at the heart video, but hers that is a little more straight forward. I'm starting on the white under the hat and around the face, how many bobbins of white do I need there? Maybe I just need a chart that marks where every new bobbin starts and then I could make better sense of it. 

I'm doing pretty good up to this point, I think, but still a little confused about seeing the left and right leaning, for now, I'm just wrapping them all and hope it will make better sense after I have worked on it a bit more.

Bernita


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## GinB

socksaholic said:


> This is probaby in the instructions and I just missed it, but I'm having trouble figuring out the whole bobbin thing. You say we will need 14 bobbins, but how many of each color and how long should they be?
> 
> Also, I'm not sure when looking at the chart how to figure this out. I looked at the heart video, but hers that is a little more straight forward.
> 
> I'm starting on the white under the hat and around the face, how many bobbins of white do I need there? Maybe I just need a chart that marks where every new bobbin starts and then I could make better sense of it.
> 
> I'm doing pretty good up to this point, I think, but still a little confused about seeing the left and right leaning, for now, I'm just wrapping them all and hope it will make better sense after I have worked on it a bit more.
> 
> Bernita


Bernita,

Your knitting looks really great. Keep up the good work.

Since you viewed the Intarsia links I provided, you already know that any time you have one color that gets separated by another color, that will mean you need another bobbin. If you really want to have most of your bobbins ready before you go any farther, this is what I use (and, yes, I prepare them all in advance, because when Im on a roll, I dont want to have to stop knitting). This is an option, *not* a requirement:

Red: 6
White: 3 (6-7 if I wouldn't use angora)
Green: 3 if I use the whole skein for one side, *or* 6 if I dont
White Angora (I use a LOT on mine): 3-4 (but I always have some left over)
Black: 2 (3 if I use it for the belt)
Pink: 2
Black (Red Heart Shimmer for a shiny-looking belt): 1
Gold (intertwined with DMC Gold Metallic Floss #5282 for a shiny belt buckle): 2

I keep the 23-26 bobbins (thats a LOT of bobbins) in a zipper bag, which (IMO) is so much easier to open and close than a ziplock bag. Maybe now you can understand why I suggested 2 of each color. LOL In my case, if I prepar more bobbins than I need, I hang on to them until I knit the next stocking.

How much white you need all depends on what yarn you use for any given section (see above for more details).

Ginny


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## GinB

Jimcasmom said:


> OH Ginny---
> 
> I've died and gone to heaven w/the way being showed to sew up the back seam on the stocking. This method will work for anything that needs to be sewed together and is so much simpler than the dreaded 'mattress' stitch. Wish I had seen the video before I finished the sweater I just made for my grandson. Even a small size sweater is a pain to sew, but now with this way of doing it the sewing will not be so yucky. Thanks a whole bunch for those instructions. :-D :-D :-D Sue


Sue,

I was just the messenger. You have Saroj (on KP) to thank for her designing an invisible seaming method. Feel free to contact her. I'm sure she would love hearing from you.

As an aside, anyone should feel free to contact *any* of the experts whose links I provided. Feedback lets them know they are doing a good job. Plus it feels good to know that their hard work is appreciated. (Their contact information is available beneath their links.)

Ginny


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## Maryannee

Wow! This is a challenge for me. Your instructions are wonderful and I thank you as I see how much work it is for me and we can probably quadruple it for you! You have given us a special gift of your time and thouroughness . This has been slow going for me but I'm trudging along. I'm attaching a picture. My work isn't the greatest but I am learning. My stocking is big but I'm liking it.


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## GinB

Maryannee said:


> Wow! This is a challenge for me. Your instructions are wonderful and I thank you as I see how much work it is for me and we can probably quadruple it for you! You have given us a special gift of your time and thouroughness . This has been slow going for me but I'm trudging along. I'm attaching a picture. My work isn't the greatest but I am learning. My stocking is big but I'm liking it.


Maryannee,

Your stocking is amazing!!! Another piece of art - I'm so proud of you. What yarn did you use for Santa's hair and beard? I REALLY like that. Inquiring minds want to know. LOL

Ginny


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## Maryannee

barb1957 said:


> Maryannee, your stocking is beauitful. What yarn did you use on the beard and triming on cuffs and coat trim..


It's called Buttercup by Red Heart. It was a stinker to use.


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## GinB

Maryannee said:


> It's called Buttercup by Red Heart. It was a stinker to use.


But it looks absolutely fabulous!!!!!! That stocking, my dear, is a Blue Ribbon Winner!!! ...and another "Original".

Okay, everyone...here's the "poop" on that yarn:

Info on Red Heart Buttercup yarn (classified as a "5", Bulky): http://www.redheart.com/yarn/buttercup/white

Red Heart Buttercup yarn (white): http://www.redheart.com/yarn/buttercup/white

Ginny


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## Maryannee

GinB said:


> Maryannee,
> 
> Your stocking is amazing!!! Another piece of art - I'm so proud of you. What yarn did you use for Santa's hair and beard? I REALLY like that. Inquiring minds want to know. LOL
> 
> Ginny


Thank you! After toiling and frogging I was wondering if I were going to finish. But, I am determined to complete this. Problem is I'm making this for my sister and now my husband wants one! Do I have the perseverance to try again!?! Red Heart Buttercup is the yarn used for the beard, etc


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## peachy51

I can't even tell y'all how much I am loving this! And thank you Ginny! If it weren't for you doing this workshop, I might have never tried the colorwork.


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## Lynnhelen

Maryannee said:


> Wow! This is a challenge for me. Your instructions are wonderful and I thank you as I see how much work it is for me and we can probably quadruple it for you! You have given us a special gift of your time and thouroughness . This has been slow going for me but I'm trudging along. I'm attaching a picture. My work isn't the greatest but I am learning. My stocking is big but I'm liking it.


Holy cow! That is beautiful! I love the fluffy white yarn!
Lynn


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## GinB

peachy51 said:


> I can't even tell y'all how much I am loving this! And thank you Ginny! If it weren't for you doing this workshop, I might have never tried the colorwork.


Look at you go, Libby.

Your stocking is absolutely beautiful!!! Your Fair-Isle, both in the name and in the green and white rows looks fantastic. Your Intarsia looks perfect. You have reason to be so proud of yourself. I am so happy that this is coming along for you. You are progressing well. Good going, Lady.

Ginny


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## RookieRetiree

Peachy.....your stocking is coming together quite well..congrats.



peachy51 said:


> I can't even tell y'all how much I am loving this! And thank you Ginny! If it weren't for you doing this workshop, I might have never tried the colorwork.


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## GinB

*INSTRUCTIONS (Next Segment):*

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*Part 13 - Sewing the Side and Back Seams:*

The original pattern instructions just said, Sew seams. I recently came across a much better, seamless way to sew the seams than to use a mattress stitch. This method was designed by Saroj Madan, "Saroj" here on KP. I have tried it, love it and will never use the mattress stitch again. When you see how easy it is, you will love it, too.

*Sarojs Seamless Sewing Instructions for Any Garment*

The trick with the seamless method is to always K the knit stitch and P the purl stitch for the first and last stitch of your rows. Sew from the right side so you can see your work as you go along, from the top down.

In your finished work, the end stitches have a tight stitch and a loose stitch. With your threaded yarn needle, go down the loose stitch on the same side of the yarn, then go up on the tight stitch on the other side of your work.

In the beginning, program your brain: Up the tight and down the loose on the same side. Your yarn is always at the wrong side and crosses over from bottom to up on the other side.

You can also view this technique in Sarojs video:

http://static.knittingparadise.com/upload/2013/7/31/1375279121590-img_0133.mp4

_The above instructions and link were provided courtesy of Saroj Madan (Saroj), a designer and another workshop teacher here on KP._

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*Part 14 - Adding Bells, Personalizing Your Stocking, and Hanging a Loop:*

*BELLS:* At the bottom of the White Border are three rows of green and white (Fair-Isle). Lets refer to Row 3 of those rows where only one white stitch was knitted and forms a point. It is on the sides of each of those single white stitches (points) where you will affix a bell  5 bells in all. Keep in mind that we all love to hear the jingle of bells around Christmastime, but if your bells sway even slightly, you risk them getting caught on something, or worse  pulled out by a small child. Follow this method and your yarn will be snug, with no sway in your bells:

Cut 5 strands of green yarn approximately 20 inches / 50 cm in length (better to have too much than too little).

Thread one strand of yarn onto a yarn needle. From the right side of your work, insert your threaded needle and approximately half of that strand of yarn along the side and at the top (not the middle or bottom, and certainly not inside) of that stitch.

Weave your yarn 6-8 stitches three times, each time changing to the opposite direction into a column of stitches next to each other. *On your first pass*, recheck to make sure the bell is snug up against your stocking  that it does not sway. If it is not snug enough, pull the yarn through a little more until it is enough.

Now go back to the top of the stocking and thread a bell onto the needle. Insert the needle into the opposite top side of that same white stitch. Bring the rest of your yarn all the way through to the underside of your stocking. Make sure your bell is right up against the stocking, leaving no excess yarn. Weave that strand the same way you did for the other side. Clip the excess yarn.

Use the same procedure to attach bells to the other points.

For those who made a toe using the Original (gathered) toe method, you need to sew a bell to the end of it, too.

If you did not knit the name within the White Border, duplicate-stitch the name into that section now. It works well to use a separate strand of yarn for each letter. You can use red or black yarn for the stitches. Either one will look nice. Below is a photo tutorial for the Duplicate Stitch method that is very easy to understand. Its clear and concise:

[/b]Duplicate Stitch:[/b]

http://bellaknitting.typepad.com/bella_knitting/2007/08/duplicate-stitc.html

_The above link has been provided courtesy of Laura Cunitz and BellaKnitting - http://bellaknitting.typepad.com. The author and photographer of the information presented in the above link is Sarah Fama, Caryatid on Ravelry._






_The above link has been provided courtesy of Helene Rush, who is personalizing a Christmas stocking in the video -http://www.mydailyknit.com; knitone on Ravelry._

*LOOP:* Make a loop on the center back for hanging using a knit or crochet stitch. Be sure to make it strong enough to be able to hold whatever Santa puts in the stocking.

If you have never knit or crocheted one before, crocheting one is fast and simple:

Taking the yarn left from your cast-on row, using a crochet hook (small, but large enough to allow worsted weight yarn to be crocheted with it) and crocheting tightly, chain 10 sts. Slip stitch your first chain stitch to form a ring, slip stitch into each chain stitch, slip stitch into the bottom where the ring connects to the stocking. Cut yarn and weave the ends in.

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That's it. Youre done! I hope you have had as much fun creating your stockings as I have. It has been my pleasure to help you and I so much enjoyed seeing what everyone has been busy creating. They are all wonderful examples of what you can accomplish if you put your mind to it. I am so VERY PROUD of all of you, not only for completing your stockings, but also challenging yourself to learn new techniques - ones that not everyone is willing to take on. I'm SO glad you did and, as Chandler Bing would say - though truer words were never spoken, I couldn't BE more pleased. (For those who don't get the reference, let me know and I'll clue you in.)

A *Parade* has been set up so that you can all show off your beautiful Christmas stockings. I am so excited about being able to see everyone's hard work displayed for all the world to see. Whoohoo!!!!! Here is the link to the Parade:

http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-208566-1.html

When posting your stocking in the Parade, *please* be sure to start your post by indicating what fibers you used, including what brands, styles and colors of yarn you used _(and where you purchased it from if it was an unusual yarn, especially if it may be difficult to find._) That would be very helpful information for those who would love to make a stocking that looks more like yours.

Ginny
*(GinB)*

_*ATTENTION:* If anyone enrolled in this workshop would like to receive future revisions of my Kriss Kringle Christmas Stocking Instructions and Patterns (or additional variations of the pattern if more are created at a later date) via email after the workshop has been closed, please PM me with your first and last name and your email address, and I will be happy to put you on my Revisions mailing list. (Dont worry, your personal information will not be shared or used for any other purpose. Thats why I dont want you to post it within the workshop  to protect your privacy.)_

Ginny
http://www.ravelry.com/people/GinB


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## Lynnhelen

Here are a few pictures of my finished stocking.

I knit this with yarn from my stash. Most of this was given to me so the bands were missing. From the feel of the green & red, it is a blend of mostly acrylic & some wool. The red that the heel is knit with also feels like a blend of the same. The mortar is 100% Red Heart acrylic. The bricks are a Lion Brand variegated, also acrylic. I know the buckle is 100% wool as that is the only gold I had! The white is a fuzzy acrylic. I think it may be Vanna White yarn. The beard is Cotswold fleece needle felted into the white I had knit. I also added a bell to his pompom.
I lined it with polar fleece with a machine stitched band around top so I could hand stitch it to stocking. I sewed the hanger on by hand and attached the button for extra strength.
I have knit a zillion socks but never a flat one! This was very interesting. I watched the video to stitch up the back seam. I thought I was doing it correctly but my seam does show. Oh well...
This is a baby shower gift so that's why there is no name on it. I will fill it with some gifts for baby using the stocking as "gift wrap".
I want to give Ginny a HUGE hug for all the great tips and buckets of help.
I do think I will knit another, but in wool next time!


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## tmlester

Lynnhelen said:


> Here are a few pictures of my finished stocking.
> 
> I knit this with yarn from my stash. Most of this was given to me so the bands were missing. From the feel of the green & red, it is a blend of mostly acrylic & some wool. The red that the heel is knit with also feels like a blend of the same. The mortar is 100% Red Heart acrylic. The bricks are a Lion Brand variegated, also acrylic. I know the buckle is 100% wool as that is the only gold I had! The white is a fuzzy acrylic. I think it may be Vanna White yarn. The beard is Cotswold fleece needle felted into the white I had knit. I also added a bell to his pompom.
> I lined it with polar fleece with a machine stitched band around top so I could hand stitch it to stocking. I sewed the hanger on by hand and attached the button for extra strength.
> I have knit a zillion socks but never a flat one! This was very interesting. I watched the video to stitch up the back seam. I thought I was doing it correctly but my seam does show. Oh well...
> This is a baby shower gift so that's why there is no name on it. I will fill it with some gifts for baby using the stocking as "gift wrap".
> I want to give Ginny a HUGE hug for all the great tips and buckets of help.
> I do think I will knit another, but in wool next time!


Wow, what a wonderful job you did! I love the beard.


----------



## RookieRetiree

That's a great job....I love the button hanger.


----------



## Lynnhelen

RookieRetiree said:


> That's a great job....I love the button hanger.


Awww, shucks! You are tooo nice....
Thanks. I needed a pat on the back!


----------



## Lynnhelen

tmlester said:


> Wow, what a wonderful job you did! I love the beard.


Thanks soooooo much! The beard is my favorite part!


----------



## GinB

Lynnhelen said:


> Here are a few pictures of my finished stocking.
> 
> I knit this with yarn from my stash. Most of this was given to me so the bands were missing. From the feel of the green & red, it is a blend of mostly acrylic & some wool. The red that the heel is knit with also feels like a blend of the same. The mortar is 100% Red Heart acrylic. The bricks are a Lion Brand variegated, also acrylic. I know the buckle is 100% wool as that is the only gold I had! The white is a fuzzy acrylic. I think it may be Vanna White yarn. The beard is Cotswold fleece needle felted into the white I had knit. I also added a bell to his pompom.
> I lined it with polar fleece with a machine stitched band around top so I could hand stitch it to stocking. I sewed the hanger on by hand and attached the button for extra strength.
> I have knit a zillion socks but never a flat one! This was very interesting. I watched the video to stitch up the back seam. I thought I was doing it correctly but my seam does show. Oh well...
> This is a baby shower gift so that's why there is no name on it. I will fill it with some gifts for baby using the stocking as "gift wrap".
> I want to give Ginny a HUGE hug for all the great tips and buckets of help.
> I do think I will knit another, but in wool next time!


Lynn, that baby is one lucky child. Your stocking is amazing - what originality you've shown. I am so glad you knit it the way you did with the fibers you chose. It's wonderful.

Can you turn the stocking inside out, take a photo and post it? I would like to see what you meant about it being lined. Also, please explain about the button a little more and what it's use is. I'm interested.

Here's a thought...what if you included (either in a ziplock-type bag or a sealed envelope) a copy of the pattern? A child can't appreciate it when they're young, but when that child reaches adulthood and perhaps has a family of their own, that is when it will be appreciated. It will give them an opportunity to either make more of the same stockings for their own family or find someone who can. You are quite possibly starting a tradition in that person's life even now.

You could also leave them a personalized message telling them all about how you made the stocking and letting them know how much love went into making of it...just for them. When Christmas rolls around this year, if you have an opportunity to have a photo of you taken with the baby (that's if it's born by then) and the stocking, that too could be added to the envelope. What memories you would leave behind for that little one!

Ginny

P.S. Thanks so much for letting everyone know that I was inaccessible for a while today. I had thought I could send out replies from my cell phone while I was out and about and was bummed that it didn't work out.


----------



## Maryannee

Your stocking is AMAZING! What a lucky baby.


----------



## Lynnhelen

GinB said:


> Lynn, that baby is one lucky child. Your stocking is amazing - what originality you've shown. I am so glad you knit it the way you did with the fibers you chose. It's wonderful.
> 
> Can you turn the stocking inside out, take a photo and post it? I would like to see what you meant about it being lined. Also, please explain about the button a little more and what it's use is. I'm interested.
> 
> Here's a thought...what if you included (either in a ziplock-type bag or a sealed envelope) a copy of the pattern? A child can't appreciate it when they're young, but when that child reaches adulthood and perhaps has a family of their own, that is when it will be appreciated. It will give them an opportunity to either make more of the same stockings for their own family or find someone who can. You are quite possibly starting a tradition in that person's life even now.
> 
> You could also leave them a personalized message telling them all about how you made the stocking and letting them know how much love went into making of it...just for them. When Christmas rolls around this year, if you have an opportunity to have a photo of you taken with the baby (that's if it's born by then) and the stocking, that too could be added to the envelope. What memories you would leave behind for that little one!
> 
> Ginny
> 
> P.S. Thanks so much for letting everyone know that I was inaccessible for a while today. I had thought I could send out replies from my cell phone while I was out and about and was bummed that it didn't work out.


What great ideas! I will do just that. 
I just got home and will be gone all day tomorrow but I will post pictures of your request by Wednesday.

Thanks to all for the kind words about my stocking!


----------



## RookieRetiree

Well, you have several....I know how hard these are to make and this workshop helped me conquer some fears and learn some new techniques that will help me with four more stockings (so far) and for many other projects in the future...your work inspires me.



Lynnhelen said:


> Awww, shucks! You are tooo nice....
> Thanks. I needed a pat on the back!


----------



## peachy51

ssusan said:


> I am going to start this stocking, but I am a new knitter. I will be happy if I get it finished by Christmas. Susan


Susan, with the detailed instructions and the video links Ginny has supplied, you will have plenty of time. I put off trying colorwork for almost 30 years and now I can't believe how much fun it is to do and wish I had started decades ago!


----------



## GinB

Railyn said:


> UGH!!!!! I just discovered that I knit the mouth off center and had to frog about 6 rows. What a mess, I will have to wait until tomorrow when the light is better. I know, mistakes happen.


Railyn,
You learned a valuable lesson...remember to check the row before moving on to the next. (If you can learn something from a negative experience, then it makes turns the negative into a positive. It's all good.)

It was an excellent idea to stop for the night and get a fresh start tomorrow.

Ginny


----------



## Lynnhelen

ssusan said:


> I am going to start this stocking, but I am a new knitter. I will be happy if I get it finished by Christmas. Susan


With these wonderful instructions you can do this! The best part is Ginny is here for us with understandable answers to our questions. Think postive! I enjoyed learning the new techniques so much I couldn't put my knitting down! It's the most fun I've had in ages!


----------



## GinB

BLOCKING:

...aaaaand we have a winner. Whohoo!!! AmyKnits, who has made some beautiful colorwork socks (and shared photos of them here on KP), responded to my post requesting blocking suggestions for our stockings. Her suggestion, to avoid dyes bleeding, is to *steam block* your stocking and to *keep your iron a few inches away from your stocking*.

Ginny


----------



## RookieRetiree

I have a stand up steamer so will try that and then let everyone know how it works out....thanks AmyKnits.



GinB said:


> BLOCKING:
> 
> ...aaaaand we have a winner. Whohoo!!! AmyKnits, who has made some beautiful colorwork socks (and shared photos of them here on KP), responded to my post requesting blocking suggestions for our stockings. Her suggestion, to avoid dyes bleeding, is to *steam block* your stocking and to *keep your iron a few inches away from your stocking*.
> 
> Ginny


----------



## GrannyRose

I agree! Immensely enjoyed the learning of a new craft, but
unable to find DPNs locally, I just knitted a round toe on this stocking but will certainly be making more.
Much appreciated, Ginny!


----------



## Maryannee

Love your stocking. Is that sequins I see snowing? Looks so pretty.


----------



## GinB

GrannyRose said:


> I agree! Immensely enjoyed the learning of a new craft, but
> unable to find DPNs locally, I just knitted a round toe on this stocking but will certainly be making more.
> Much appreciated, Ginny!


Rose,

Your stocking is is another "Original". The eyes and nose are a bit different, the "snow" was an adorable addition. The darker green yarn made it pop out more. Plus, of course, the brick section and toe have been adjusted to make the pattern work for you. Wonderful results, my dear.

Sorry you were not able to locate DPNs locally, but I am glad you were still able to knit the stocking. It turned out beautifully.

I can tell that you stitched the name on. Did you use the Duplicate Stitch technique, or did you use embroidery stitching?

Ginny


----------



## GrannyRose

Maryannee said:


> Love your stocking. Is that sequins I see snowing? Looks so pretty.


Thank you MaryAnne. They are not sequins. I have a tube of glitter left over from sewing tops for the choir (years ago) which had large seahorse motives down the front.
A little glue was run along all of the lines of the seahorse diagram and then glitter was sprinkled on. When dry, the excess glitter was shaken off onto paper and returned to the tube.

It is wash and wear and my seahorse t-shirt/top is still in good order, many years later.


----------



## GrannyRose

GinB said:


> Rose,
> 
> Your stocking is is another "Original". The eyes and nose are a bit different, the sequins used for snow was an adorable addition. The darker green yarn made them pop out more. Plus, of course, the brick section and toe have been adjusted to make the pattern work for you. Wonderful results, my dear.
> 
> Sorry you were not able to locate DPNs locally, but I am glad you were still able to knit the stocking. It turned out beautifully.
> 
> I can tell that you stitched the name on. Did you use the Duplicate Stitch technique, or did you use embroidery stitching?
> 
> Ginny


Thank you ginny. Actually the green is much lighter and brighter than that shown. The old camera is on its last legs and conking out all of the time, so I had to enhance the photo which changed the colours and nearly lost the black bag.. which does stand out much more than shown.

For the name, I pulled two strands of wool out and satin stitched along one side only of a knitted stitch.


----------



## GinB

GrannyRose said:


> Thank you ginny. Actually the green is much lighter and brighter than that shown. The old camera is on its last legs and conking out all of the time, so I had to enhance the photo which changed the colours and nearly lost the black bag.. which does stand out much more than shown.
> 
> For the name, I pulled two strands of wool out and satin stitched along one side only of a knitted stitch.


Rose,

That's a different technique. Thanks for the information.

Since you intend to make more, maybe DPNs will be in your future. (You can also pick them up online. I don't know if KnitPicks sells them, but I know they have other awesome needles for sale.)

Ginny


----------



## RookieRetiree

Awesome job!!!



GrannyRose said:


> I agree! Immensely enjoyed the learning of a new craft, but
> unable to find DPNs locally, I just knitted a round toe on this stocking but will certainly be making more.
> Much appreciated, Ginny!


----------



## Lynnhelen

GrannyRose said:


> I agree! Immensely enjoyed the learning of a new craft, but
> unable to find DPNs locally, I just knitted a round toe on this stocking but will certainly be making more.
> Much appreciated, Ginny!


Your stocking is AWESOME! I love his expressive face. I never thought about good old fashioned embroidery. When I get into "knit mode" I so,etimes have a one track mind! Thanks for the reminder. I also like the round toe. It gives it a playful look.
Thanks for sharing.
Lynn


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## Maryannee

It's done! My stocking is a bit wonky but I'm happy with it. Thank you Ginny for a great workshop.


----------



## catlover1960

Maryannee said:


> It's done! My stocking is a bit wonky but I'm happy with it. Thank you Ginny for a great workshop.


Great job. I love the yarn you used for the beard and trim on Santa's suit. This stocking will be cherished for years to come.


----------



## Lynnhelen

Maryannee said:


> It's done! My stocking is a bit wonky but I'm happy with it. Thank you Ginny for a great workshop.


That is perfect! I love it! Are those bells on the white tips? Very clever idea!
Lynn


----------



## Lynnhelen

GinB said:


> Lynn,
> 
> No worries. We will wait patiently for your photos. In the meantime, you're not happy about learning all about embroidery machines? Whaaaa???? That is still in the category of "crafts". How many of us do you think will have that opportunity? Take advantage of it! You never know where that might lead. In the meantime, your needles will still be waiting for you when you get home from work.
> 
> Ginny


Okay, here is the inside of my stocking. It is lined with a heavy fabric that is a cross between polar fleece & felt. I stitched, on my sewing machine, a bias tape on the top edge to give it a more finished look. It also stabilizes the top edge so I could hand stitch it to the actual top of stocking. I tacked it at the bottom of ribbing row. I then made a hanger from the same bias tape and hand stitched that through all layers: knit one & lining. I put the button on the outside to further strengthen the hanger. I need to make sure Santa can stuff that thing full and have no fears that it will fall!
I included another picture so you could see where I put the bell on. I sewed that on with yarn.
I hope I explained it so everyone could understand. Sometimes it is hard to put into words exactly what I do. I have no idea how you know exactly how to put into words these knitting instructions Miss Ginny! So talented...
It is so wonderful to see all the finished stockings appear! Our fireplace mantels are going to rock!


----------



## peachy51

Lynnhelen said:


> Okay, here is the inside of my stocking. It is lined with a heavy fabric that is a cross between polar fleece & felt. I stitched, on my sewing machine, a bias tape on the top edge to give it a more finished look. It also stabilizes the top edge so I could hand stitch it to the actual top of stocking. I tacked it at the bottom of ribbing row. I then made a hanger from the same bias tape and hand stitched that through all layers: knit one & lining. I put the button on the outside to further strengthen the hanger. I need to make sure Santa can stuff that thing full and have no fears that it will fall!
> I included another picture so you could see where I put the bell on. I sewed that on with yarn.
> I hope I explained it so everyone could understand. Sometimes it is hard to put into words exactly what I do. I have no idea how you know exactly how to put into words these knitting instructions Miss Ginny! So talented...
> It is so wonderful to see all the finished stockings appear! Our fireplace mantels are going to rock!


So cleaver! I love the lining idea so as to not have snags and also it will help keep from stretching the stocking out if heavy things are put in it. :thumbup:


----------



## Sapphires-n-Purls

Hi everyone! I just wanted to pop in and say hi and wish you all luck on your stockings! Ginny was kind enough to link my SKP video for this workshop; I hope it's been helpful.


----------



## RookieRetiree

Hi all...the stockings look wonderful and the lining is perfect. We've been using the ones that my MIL made for the grandkids over 30 years ago and they've never been lined, but they have been stuffed and stretched throughout the years...with the lining, you won't be able to get as much in them.


----------



## GinB

Maryannee said:


> It's done! My stocking is a bit wonky but I'm happy with it. Thank you Ginny for a great workshop.


Maryannee,

You've stocking turned out beautifully and I love the fibers you chose. The beard and Santa's suite look so fluffy - cuddly soft. It's one of your stocking's excellent features that make it an "Original". I know you didn't care for the Red Heart Buttercup yarn that you used for the beard and suit, saying it was "a stinker to use". What was it about that yarn that you didn't like?

Your Fair-Isle and Intarsia came out wonderfully and your bells are sewn on exactly as called for in the instructions. They look so nice. What fiber did you use for the belt buckle? it's looks metallic, or is that a trick of the light?

It looks like you used the gathered toe method, but I can't tell from your photo if you hung a bell at the bottom of it.

All-in-all, a really awesome stocking, Maryannee. You have reason to be *very* proud of yourself!

At the beginning of this workshop, you mentioned that you had tried to knit a similar stocking a few years back. I don't know why you didn't complete that one, but you certainly did yourself proud this time around. Congratulations! What would you do differently if you make another one? Is that in your plans?

Ginny


----------



## GinB

Lynnhelen said:


> Okay, here is the inside of my stocking. It is lined with a heavy fabric that is a cross between polar fleece & felt. I stitched, on my sewing machine, a bias tape on the top edge to give it a more finished look. It also stabilizes the top edge so I could hand stitch it to the actual top of stocking. I tacked it at the bottom of ribbing row. I then made a hanger from the same bias tape and hand stitched that through all layers: knit one & lining. I put the button on the outside to further strengthen the hanger. I need to make sure Santa can stuff that thing full and have no fears that it will fall!
> I included another picture so you could see where I put the bell on. I sewed that on with yarn.
> I hope I explained it so everyone could understand. Sometimes it is hard to put into words exactly what I do. I have no idea how you know exactly how to put into words these knitting instructions Miss Ginny! So talented...
> It is so wonderful to see all the finished stockings appear! Our fireplace mantels are going to rock!


Lynn,

Thank you for sharing a photo of the lining. It was an ingenious thing to do and another "original" feature of your stocking. (A light bulb just went off - if a stocking should have flaws that are visible from the inside, a lining can hide them. Nice!)

You've done a wonderful job, Lynn. Your knitting skills and original ideas have turned a nice stocking into something outstanding. I love it!

Ginny


----------



## Maryannee

GinB said:


> Maryannee,
> 
> You've stocking turned out beautifully and I love the fibers you chose. The beard and Santa's suite look so fluffy - cuddly soft. It's one of your stocking's excellent features that make it an "Original". I know you didn't care for the Red Heart Buttercup yarn that you used for the beard and suit, saying it was "a stinker to use". What was it about that yarn that you didn't like?
> 
> Your Fair-Isle and Intarsia came out wonderfully and your bells are sewn on exactly as called for in the instructions. They look so nice. What fiber did you use for the belt buckle? it's looks metallic, or is that a trick of the light?
> 
> It looks like you used the gathered toe method, but I can't tell from your photo if you hung a bell at the bottom of it.
> 
> All-in-all, a really awesome stocking, Maryannee. You have reason to be *very* proud of yourself!
> 
> At the beginning of this workshop, you mentioned that you had tried to knit a similar stocking a few years back. I don't know why you didn't complete that one, but you certainly did yourself proud this time around. Congratulations! What would you do differently if you make another one? Is that in your plans?
> 
> Ginny


Thank you so much for your kind words. 
I tried the original pattern (my Aunt had a worn copy) and I tried to work it in the round. I didn't understand intarsia and it was a total disaster. Your detailed instructions and access to tutorials were just what I needed to succeed. 
The Buttercup yarn needed getting used to is all..bulkier than the other yarn, however, I do like the look of it. I used a metallic stretch cord for the buckle. Not sure I would use it on my next sock as it is quite stiff. I did add a bell at the toe but I think I will change it out for a larger bell. I love the jingle-ing. I will be knitting more socks. My husband really wants one and I have others that are going to want one once they see it. I am going to wait til Christmas to show anyone as I have other Christmas gifts to knit first. . I'm afraid I have another addiction! Lovin' it! I am working on a christening dress for my niece now. Thanks again, Ginny, for a great workshop.


----------



## tmlester

Maryannee said:


> It's done! My stocking is a bit wonky but I'm happy with it. Thank you Ginny for a great workshop.


Great job! I really love seeing everyone's stockings when done. I'm still working on the top of mine....have to blame the new job! I don't get home until 7 or so and then it's dinner and some knitting time before bed. Wish I still had the time I did when I worked part time and could be home to knit all afternoon and evening!!!!


----------



## GinB

Sapphires-n-Purls said:


> Hi everyone! I just wanted to pop in and say hi and wish you all luck on your stockings! Ginny was kind enough to link my SKP video for this workshop; I hope it's been helpful.


It was awfully nice of you to pop in and say hello to all of us. I love your video, which is why I thought others would appreciate it, too. You made SKP so easy to understand. Thanks again for giving me permission to post the link to your video here and in my pattern instructions.

If anyone would like to comment on the video, I'm sure your input would be very much appreciated. Also, don't forget to check out her blog.

Ginny


----------



## catlover1960

GinB said:


> Lynn,
> 
> The big question is whether or not additional help will even be needed once everyone finishes their first Kriss Kringle stocking. You've all been doing such a fantastic job...without much help from me _(Boohoo...LOL)_. So, let's see others have to say about it.
> 
> Ginny


Your instructions have been so clear that there have not been too many questions. To me that speaks to your ability to teach. I was a trainer for many years and had to learn many ways to say the same thing. Not everyone learns the same. I have learned that I am a visual learner. I can do it if I can see how it is done; be it video or picture tutorials. Although I have not started my stocking I think this has been a wonderful workshop. Thanks for providing us with this workshop. I look forward to the other options.


----------



## wilnita

Here is how far I am ,enjoying this. It is really red like Christmas red but not showing it sorry Anita


PS
Did mortar in different white,beard fuzzy white
next time I think I'll make bricks a rusty red
now onto turning heel . Really really enjoying this stocking


----------



## GinB

NellieKnitter said:


> I love everyone's stockings. I am anxious to start mine. I have found all my supplies except the Clover yarn bobbins--I looked at Joann's and Michaels. I have never worked with yarn bobbins and I am assuming they are larger than cross stitch floss bobbins? I haven't checked Walmart or Hancocks yet. My nearest Hancocks is moving to a different location a few miles away, so I doubt the old store has them. Could I just make my own bobbins out of cardboard? What is the size and shape?


Nellie,

I'm looking forward to you joining us, too. Yes, yarn bobbins are bigger than cross stitch floss bibbins, but they are similar in construction. I was ticked about how much bobbins cost, thinking I could get the same result from cutting cardboard. They were "alright", but no great shakes. THEN I found Clover brand's bobbins and never looked back. Out went the cardboard into the garbage and I was in hog heaven. I have not regretted one cent I spent on them and keep my eye peeled for more every time I'm in a yarn department, craft store or LYS.

Don't stress about the brand. Clover brand will allow your bobbin to stay closer to your work, but any brand will work. I was in Wal-Mart last night and my store didn't have them. Maybe yours will.

If you have a Hobby Lobby near you, try them. Look to see who sells them online. Also, if you read my instructions already, you read that can also get away with using spring clothespins.

Ginny


----------



## GinB

Veechy said:


> Veechy wrote:
> I'm in.
> 
> will cotton work for the main colors of red, green and white ? then angora for the hair, beard,etc? Or is acrylic better?


There you are, Veechy. Glad you're here. I have never tried cotton on the stocking. Just off hand, I would say cotton doesn't allow much give, nor do I think they would have the same visual appeal that acrylic or wool will have, but that's just my opinion.

Ginny


----------



## RookieRetiree

You can shape them from cardboard...about 2" x 2" or look on YouTube for a video for "butterfly" or hand wound bobbins. They work well too.



NellieKnitter said:


> I love everyone's stockings. I am anxious to start mine. I have found all my supplies except the Clover yarn bobbins--I looked at Joann's and Michaels. I have never worked with yarn bobbins and I am assuming they are larger than cross stitch floss bobbins? I haven't checked Walmart or Hancocks yet. My nearest Hancocks is moving to a different location a few miles away, so I doubt the old store has them. Could I just make my own bobbins out of cardboard? What is the size and shape?


----------



## NellieKnitter

RookieRetiree said:


> You can shape them from cardboard...about 2" x 2" or look on YouTube for a video for "butterfly" or hand wound bobbins. They work well too.


Hobby Lobby did not have Clover bobbins either. Gin and RookieRetiree, thanks for your suggestions. I will checkout the YouTube videos. I do have spring type clothes pin, but I can't picture in my mind how you would use them. LOL I guess I am a little dense.


----------



## GinB

NellieKnitter said:


> Hobby Lobby did not have Clover bobbins either. Gin and RookieRetiree, thanks for your suggestions. I will checkout the YouTube videos. I do have spring type clothes pin, but I can't picture in my mind how you would use them. LOL I guess I am a little dense.


Nellie,

It's quite easy. You just wind yarn around the middle, then open the clothespin slightly to catch the end you will be knitting with. That prevents the yarn from unraveling.

Ginny


----------



## Jimcasmom

For those of you who can't find the yarn bobbins to wind the yarn on, here is a video on youtube that shows how to use your fingers to wind a center pull bobbin:






This was a topic a while ago on KP and I found it again using the search. Try it as it works very well. I've used it many times. Sue


----------



## prismaticr

Hi all...
The stockings I have seen are coming along wonderfully....

* start adding your pictures to the opened Parade...

http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-208566-1.html#4144663*

(if you have trouble re-posting your pictures please let me know.)

Cant want to see them all in one place!
Any future student completing a stocking from the workshop, also fee free to add your progress and finished works.

http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-208566-1.html#4144663


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## laurfrances

Here is my latest picture...


----------



## GinB

laurfrances said:


> Here is my latest picture...


Laur,

Your Fair-Isle stitches are not pulling, which means that you used just the right amount of tension for your floats. I see no gaps in your Intarsia. It's coming along very nicely, Laur.

It looks like you found a skin-colored yarn for Santa's face, or is that only the lighting? What yarn did you use for Santa's beard? And what size needles have you been using?

Ginny


----------



## laurfrances

Yes, I decided to go with peach for the beard. The white is a regular red-heart yarn, but the beard is angora (not the hat - that is a fluffy acrylic - not sure what brand since it is from my stash). The green is red heart and the red is Vanna's choice. There are some obvious mistakes (for example, the beard) but I decided to keep going anyhow. I want to get to the heel since I know that will be my biggest challenge.

The whites are just a little off... I probably won't use 3 different whites the next time around.

The needles are 5 mm. The mistake on the beard was on the right side (mine goes straight down near the toy sack while the one in the picture has one more stitch of white part of the way down). I didn't think this made too much of a difference, so I kept going. I only used one strand of angora, but it doesn't look too much different from the other white - I did notice it was thinner, however.


----------



## GinB

laurfrances said:


> Yes, I decided to go with peach for the beard. The white is a regular red-heart yarn, but the beard is angora (not the hat - that is a fluffy acrylic - not sure what brand since it is from my stash). The green is red heart and the red is Vanna's choice. There are some obvious mistakes (for example, the beard) but I decided to keep going anyhow. I want to get to the heel since I know that will be my biggest challenge.


Laur,

Take a look at my reply to your recent post. I edited it after I sent it through the first time.

You said you made "obvious mistakes" with the beard. How so? How many strands of angora did you use?

Don't be concerned about the heel. If you follow the directions and avoid distractions, it will go very smoothly for you. Just take your time, read the instructions carefully and do exactly what the instructions tell you to do. If you need help, I'm here.

This is addressed to all:

If it turns out that you are not ecstatic about how your first stocking turns out, consider it your "learning curve" or "practice piece" and start a new one. (I've done that, and so have many others.) Don't stress. If you learn from it, it's all good! However, if you have taken a look at the photos, I see no reason to think that way. I'm very impressed.

Ginny


----------



## GinB

laurfrances said:


> The whites are just a little off... I probably won't use 3 different whites the next time around.
> 
> The needles are 5 mm.


So, you're using a U.S. Size 8 instead of a Size 5. If your stitches are not snug up against each other, it may be difficult for the stocking to hang and keep it's shape. Since you plan to make another stocking, that's okay. You're learning from your experience.

Ginny


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## GinB

laurfrances said:


> It says 5 on it (on the top). It does not actually say 5 mm. Does that mean that the needles are a 7?


Laur,

My U.S. needles have a number at the top. They probably are a U.S. Size 5. If you have a Red Heart or Susan Bates "Knit-Chek" that has different sized holes for each size needle, that is the best way to verify a needle's size. (That is especially useful for DPNs because those needles don't indicate their size on the needle itself - only on the packaging when they are purchased.)

As far as what size a needle is comparable to, go here:

http://www.fibergypsy.com/common/needles.shtml

The above link is also in the Instructions under the suggested needle sizes for this project.

Ginny

P.S. 5mm needles are the same size as U.S. Size 8


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## wilnita

wilnita said:


> Here is how far I am ,enjoying this. It is really red like Christmas red but not showing it sorry


Used yarn from statch different whites ,fuzzy white for beard
creamy white for mortar.Really enjoyed this class altho I have made many Christmas Stockings this is the first time on two needles :thumbup:


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## GinB

wilnita said:


> Used yarn from statch different whites ,fuzzy white for beard
> creamy white for mortar.Really enjoyed this class altho I have made many Christmas Stockings this is the first time on two needles :thumbup:


Anita,

Congratulations. Your stocking looks wonderful.  You must be so proud of it. Who is Stella, by the way? (I am amazed that some have found enough time to finish theirs already.)

I also see you let your creativity come into play by knitting a totally red toe. That's the first time I've seen that for this stocking. It looks great. Your photo doesn't show whether you went with a gathered toe or a Kitchener Stitch toe. Which was it?

If I could offer you a couple of suggestions for your next one. Try certain things differently to see if you like how they look any better than this time around. Perhaps you can try using another strand of angora. Another possibility would be to try Fair-Isle with longer floats than the 2-stitch floats you used this time. Don't worry. As long as you leave enough yarn so that it doesn't pucker in the front, you'll be fine.

People are breezing through the Parade now, so go ahead a post your stocking there. Don't forget to include what materials and colors you used. (This helps others to see what materials and colors others might want to use when knitting their stocking.)

Ginny


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## GinB

PART 12 PHOTOS:

These are the photos I took, the first of which was while they were still on all 4 DPNs, then progressing through each step of the process until it was finished.

Then....I decided that I would rather have had the white part of the toe longer and narrower, and having already weaved in my ends, took all of the Kitchener Stitches out today, added the rows that I recently changed the pattern for (see those changes in a prior post of mine), then RE-Kitchener Stitched everything.

I am done seaming my stocking. All that is left is to Duplicate Stitch Isabelle's name on it and sew on the bells. Isabelle's name is so long that I had to fiddle around with the graph to find a way to make all of the characters in her name appear in the front, though they have been narrowed in order to accomplish that. You can do the same. Be creative...just because....or...when you need to in order to make something "work".

About sewing the seams, Saroj's invisible seam technique works like a charm, but it was difficult to see where the "tight" stitches were because the green yarn is so dark. I ended up putting a little flashlight in my mouth while stitching. (I must have looked hilarious, but it worked.) When you seam, make sure you are picking up the right loose and tight stitch at the right time. If you jump ahead too far on one side, you won't end up with your last green stitches matching where they need to. The same thing holds true for the other colored stitches.

Enjoy the photos. I hope it helps you complete your toes. Don't be afraid of the Kitchener Stitch. It looks really good and is not hard. You just have to make sure you don't have distractions and concentrate on what you're doing. (Don't be tired when you are doing this section.)

Ginny


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## GinB

It's 9:43 p.m. I got a second wind and finished Isabelle's stocking. I used my professional steamer to block it and it worked beautifully.

These are the fibers I used:
Red Heart SuperSaver Paddy Green, Cherry Red, white, pink and black;
Plymouth 100% Angora for Santa's hair, beard, the parts of Santa's suit that are white and the ball at the end of Santa's cap;
Red Heart Shimmer in black to make a sparkle in Santa's belt;
Red Heart Soft in Honey (color) for the belt buckle, that was twisted with DMC Gold Metallic Floss #5282;

The first time I made the stocking, I used black yarn to cross-stitch the name onto the stocking. Boy, did it look tacky. From then on, I knit the name into the stocking using Fair-Isle...except this time. This is the first time I used Duplicate Stitch and I am impressed with how nice it looks. There is hardly a difference in appearance compared to stitching the name into it using Fair-Isle. Plus, it has the advantage of being able to removed when Isabelle wants to pass it down in her family. I am very pleased with the stocking, inside and out....and it's the first one I have steam-blocked.

Oh, and Saroj's invisible seam worked like an absolute dream. This is the first stocking I used that technique on and I love it!!!!!

The next one I make will be for her little sister, Jasmine. Jasmine kept peaking in on me to see how this one was coming. It was so cute to watch her eyes sparkle in anticipation of it being finished. She could hardly wait...and it's not even for her. How cute is that? She is extremely excited about having one for her very own. (All my granddaughters love to receive gifts from me that I've knitted. I'll take it while I can get it, because there will come a day when they might say, "Mom, Grandma knitted something ELSE for me. Doesn't she know that I don't like stuff like that anymore?" or Me, wear that? No way." Life's too short. I enjoy my grandchildren while I can. I just hope they will remember these moments and know how much I loved them and loved making things FOR them.

Oh my!!! I just noticed that I forgot to sew the bells on. That's a must.

_Please disregard my previous post about (pretty much) sticking to the facts with what is posted in the Parade. It took posting mine to realize how unrealistic that was. (I'm an old dog, but you can teach me new tricks.)_

Ginny

Here are the photos (front and back):


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## jmai5421

GinB said:


> Revan,
> 
> Unless you are well experienced with Magic Loop, you would have to use DPNs. That is one thing I did not include in the tutorial links I provided.
> 
> (To all: I am NOT teaching Magic Loop in this workshop, so please don't ask. If you are not well experienced with that method, it is not an option for you - PERIOD! You have enough on your plate without adding that to the mix.)
> 
> Check out YouTube for videos showing the use of DPNs....and, of course, practice on scrap yarn until you improve well enough to use them on your stocking. Take my word for it, using DPNs is not difficult. It's just a matter of getting used to manipulating more than 2 needles (but you are only using 2 at any given time, so what's the big deal???? Once you get the hang of it (and it won't take long), you will wonder what you were worried about in the first place.
> 
> People, think outside the box!!! Be adventurous!!! Have a positive attitude - Y O U__*C A N*__D O__T H I S!!!
> 
> The most important thing about them is to make sure that the last stitch on your current needle and the first stitch on the next needle are snug up against each other (even though they are on different needles) so there won't be a gap.
> 
> Ginny


There was a magic loop workshop. All the information is still there. Just go back to where you found this workshop and scroll down to the magic loop workshop. That is where I learned the magic loop. I taught myself to use the DPN's years ago so I could knit mittens for my children.


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## peachy51

When I posted my stocking pic on the parade thread, I mentioned that I made an i-cord hanger for mine. Gin, suggested that I post here in the workshop thread how I did that.

For the i-cord, I did not use the very long tail that I had left when first casting on the stocking. I decided to use that tail for sewing up the seam down the back of the leg.

Then I made a 3-stitch i-cord exactly the way Staci does in this video: http://verypink.com/2010/10/11/i-cord/ I actually started the first one with the 4-stitch i-cord, but thought it was a little too bulky and started over with a 3-stitch which was just right.

Then I used the i-cord cast-on tail and the cast-off tail to sew the i-cord onto the top back of the stocking. (I know, I know, for those who read my earlier posts about how I do NOT ever use dpn's ... I don't use them in the traditional way, but I do use them for i-cords  ).


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## GinB

elliebe said:


> what is a "parade " and where does one find it?


A workshop is always followed by a Parade, which is where all the participants from the workshop exhibit (show off) their completed project(s).

Ours is here: http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-208566-1.html


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## karhyunique

Hi Ginny, Just a little update of my progress. Being careful and going slow. Thanks again for all your work. Would you ever do this again? Lol Kathy


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## GinB

karhyunique said:


> Hi Ginny, Just a little update of my progress. Being careful and going slow. Thanks again for all your work. Would you ever do this again? Lol Kathy


Kathy,

Your stocking looks marvelous. I really appreciate seeing a close-up. Your Fair-Isle and Intarsia look perfect. There is no extra tension that would cause pulling (or puckering). Every stitch looks...perfect. I, too, like the colors you chose. The green reminds me of a fern green and looks wonderful, and the color red you selected works very well with the green.

One question. Why on *earth* are you concerned about how far you've gotten??? That.....is.....*soooooo*.....unimportant. Is it Christmas Eve??? Chill already!

Ginny


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## GinB

Railyn said:


> My stocking is coming along. I don't know how to post pictures. I have learned a couple of things about myself. I don't enjoy working with streight needles. I always use circular or double point and I don't enjoy bobbins. I have always make butterfly bobbins with the yarn and find them easier, I am enjoying the socking and am waiting for the other patterns to come out as I have at least 4 more stockings to make by Christmas and I make mine all different. Thank you again.


Railyn,

To add a photo, first you need to make a post. After clicking on "Send", you will be given an option underneath it to "Add New Attachment". Click on it. Click on "Choose File". Select the file. Then click on, "Add Attachment" underneath it. That's all there is to it.

As far as me posting other files, they are almost done. Some of the numbered charts are done, others are not, plus I still need to make enlarged patterns on some. I have to fit all of that in between other things going on in my life. I'm going as fast as I can.

Ginny


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## peachy51

GinB said:


> Railyn,
> 
> To add a photo, first you need to make a post. After clicking on "Send", you will be given an option underneath it to "Add New Attachment". Click on it. Click on "Choose File". Select the file. Then click on, "Add Attachment" underneath it. That's all there is to it.
> 
> As far as me posting other files, they are almost done. Some of the numbered charts are done, others are not, plus I still need to make enlarged patterns on some. I have to fit all of that in between other things going on in my life. I'm going as fast as I can.
> 
> Ginny


Ginny ... do I understand that you are making other charts to be used with this stocking?

I ask this because I started my second stocking last night and I want it to be not exactly like the first one. So I have found several Christmas theme charts that I think could work. This new stocking I have started will have blue as the main color and instead of the Santa it will have a snowman on the leg and I plan to put a snowflake on the top of the foot. But I am following all your instructions for this one as with the first because the only thing that is changing is the chart.


----------



## GinB

peachy51 said:


> Ginny ... do I understand that you are making other charts to be used with this stocking?
> 
> I ask this because I started my second stocking last night and I want it to be not exactly like the first one. So I have found several Christmas theme charts that I think could work. This new stocking I have started will have blue as the main color and instead of the Santa it will have a snowman on the leg and I plan to put a snowflake on the top of the foot. But I am following all your instructions for this one as with the first because the only thing that is changing is the chart.


Libby,

I have a total of 7 Kriss Kringle patterns, the original that was designed by Columbia-Minerva and the other 6 designs I created FROM the original. They are all variations of the same design. There are differences in size and slight differences in the pattern details. The stocking everyone is making for this workshop is what I have called "Option 5". The numbered chart for that one has already been made available to all of you. I have been working on and off to make numbered charts for the others. THAT is what I was referring to.

Ginny


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## jprowse

GinB said:


> SUGGESTION:
> 
> For those who might have a problem making sure they are looking at their chart from the correct side for a given row, here is another tool you can use to help you...
> 
> Mark "K" in the margin for your knit rows and "P" in the margin for your purl rows.


I'm definitely going to do that. I have now started over three times as I keep counting from the wrong side  I know this will help. Thanks!!!


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## karhyunique

I'm on the Santa belt row 63 and just want say for me the numbered chart is wonderful so far no trouble keeping rows straight not that I haven't unknit a bit on some rows. Kathy


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## RookieRetiree

I'm on the boots of Santa and will be beginning the heel later today..maybe finishing this one today...it's a different pattern---as I had already had this one started last year---but it employs the same knitting techniques of faire isle and intarsia..it's actually beginning to be fun since I'm learning to manage the bobbins. I'm sure I'll continue to get better as I employ all the lessons from this workshop as I do the next two. I'm even planning on designing my own Christmas scene in one of the next ones!


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## peachy51

I am about halfway through with my second one which is made exactly like the Kris Kringle except I am using a snowman chart instead of the Santa chart.


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## wilnita

wilnita said:


> Just finished my second sock yesterday for Ellie will post pictures later in day . Thanks so much for giving this class and waiting patiencely (?) for next patterns.Hope everyone has a great day/week..Anita
> 
> :lol:


the crocheted hanger is not showing but it's there. Two different whites and two different reds all from stach


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## GinB

Anita,

Ellie's stocking looks wonderful. It's hard to believe that you have completed a second stocking already. Was it easier the second time around?

FYI: The posting of downloads is imminent, both for the final revisions of Option 5, as well as all the other variations. (There are some things that have to be taken care of behind the scenes before that can happen...but it *is* imminent.) Thank you for your patience.

Ginny


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## tmlester

peachy51 said:


> I am about halfway through with my second one which is made exactly like the Kris Kringle except I am using a snowman chart instead of the Santa chart.


Can't wait to see it! Snowmen are my favorite winter/holiday decorations. I have a collection that almost (okay, not even close) rivals my yarn stash!


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## tmlester

karhyunique said:


> Okay all my stocking knitting friends, we are going on a long car trip and I want to work on my stocking, any ideas on what to use to keep everything on my lap? I thought of a 9x11 baking pan but not sure it will be big enough. Appreciate any ideas. 🎃🎃🎃🎃🎃Kathy


I had to do that on a long train ride and used a dishpan - one of the plastic ones that is about 5 inches high. It worked like a charm and didn't get too heavy on my lap.


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## tmlester

wilnita said:


> the crocheted hanger is not showing but it's there. Two different whites and two different reds all from stach


What a beautiful stocking for a lucky little girl! Nice job, and I love the different shades of color. I'm thinking I'll do the same with the red for the bricks.


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## karhyunique

tmlester said:


> I had to do that on a long train ride and used a dishpan - one of the plastic ones that is about 5 inches high. It worked like a charm and didn't get too heavy on my lap.


Great idea I didn't think of a dish pan must say something about my lack of love for housework haha. I take the train often, love it , thanks for the tip. Kathy


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## karhyunique

Ginny, I'm on row 73 and it seems I've gone off the rails as it's supposed to be a purl row and it's a knit row. All looks fine to me, but when I get farther will I need to add a row for the heel and toe? I thought I was being very careful but apparently not. Thanks for your help Kathy


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## GinB

karhyunique said:


> Ginny, I'm on row 73 and it seems I've gone off the rails as it's supposed to be a purl row and it's a knit row. All looks fine to me, but when I get farther will I need to add a row for the heel and toe? I thought I was being very careful but apparently not. Thanks for your help Kathy


Kathy,

In Part 4, it begins with 3 green and white rows (Rows 21-23). Row 21 was supposed to be knitted. Which row was to be knitted and which row was to be purled was done in a way to make your first row of Intarsia begin on a *knit* row.

If you noticed that *your* first Intarsia row was a purl row, that signifies that you goofed in a prior row, whether it was Row 21 or not is not important at this point.

Make SURE you have all rows knitted correctly before proceeding. At the most, you may have to knit one extra row, which will not throw you off or change anything else.

Ginny


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## GinB

*DOWNLOADS FOR KRISS KRINGLE STOCKING PATTERN VARIATIONS:*

First, let me say that, prior to this workshop, I always maintained one file for the instructions *for ALL patterns*. Option 5 Instructions were pulled out of it for the purpose of this workshop.

After (A) making new files to separate Basic Instructions from my original Detailed Instructions; (B) making numbered charts for the other 6 patterns; (C) making new patterns printable in 2 pages per chart; and (D) making new patterns printable in 11 x 17, the number of files were...lengthy. For that reason, I decided not to make even more files just to separate instructions by pattern. Don't worry. You will not have a problem as long as you pay attention to what you are reading. They are *color-coded* and *clearly marked* which stocking each section pertains to. *As long as you pay attention, you will be fine!*

*NOTE:* The Original Instructions, Original black and white chart that has my hand-written row numbers in the margins and the Original Alphabet Chart were designed and distributed by Columbia-Minerva. All other Instructions, Patterns, Charts, Alternate Alphabet Charts are my own designs. All are being provided to you free of charge *for your own PERSONAL use*. You do *not* have my permission to sell any of the below Instructions or Patterns/Charts. To distribute or sell my designs is a copyright violation.

*For those who participated in this workshop (at my last count, there were 83), if you have not contacted me yet and would like to receive future stocking revisions, be sure to send me a PM and include your first and last name, along with your email address. That is the only way to get revisions to my files - my gift to you for sharing your stocking knitting experiences with me, and for encouraging others with their stockings. Thank you so much. You are the ones who made this workshop a success!!!*

In words similar to what Burgess Meredith would say, "You've got it all!!! I hope you have as much fun with them as I have. Enjoy!!!
*
*
Ginny

*ORIGINAL - Size Large, NO Toy Bag (This is the ORIGINAL Columbia-Minerva Kriss Kringle Stocking that came as part of a kit*
01_KK_Stocking_Orig_Instr_09-30-13............(*ORIGINAL* Instructions)
02_KK_Stocking_Orig_Pattern_10-27-13.............(*ORIGINAL* Charts - 1 page each, to be printed on 8-1/2" x 11" paper)
03_KK_Stocking_Orig_Pattern_2Pgs_10-27-13..........(*ORIGINAL* Charts - enlarged, 2 pages each, to be printed on 8-1/2" x 11" paper)
04_KK_Stocking_Orig_Pattern_11x17_10-27-13..........(*ORIGINAL* Charts - enlarged, 1 page each, to be printed on 11" x 17" paper)

*NOTE:* The original came with the 1-page instruction sheet, 1-page black and white chart that has my numbered row designations in the margins and the original alphabet chart. Everything else was my design.

*BASIC Instructions:*
05_KK_Stocking_ALL_Instr_Basic_11-01-13..........(*ALL* BASIC Instructions, normal font)
06_KK_Stocking_ALL_Instr_Basic_LF_11-01-13..........(*ALL* BASIC Instructions, *larger* font)

*DETAILED Instructions:*
07_KK_Stocking_ALL_Instr_Detail_11-01-13...........(*ALL* DETAILED Instructions, normal font)
08_KK_Stocking_ALL_Instr_Detail_LF_11-01-13.........(*ALL* DETAILED Instructions, *larger* font)

*OPTION 1 - Size Large, NO Toy Bag, very similar to the Original pattern, has a different cast on stitch amount and has ribbing at the top*
09_KK_Stocking_Op1_Pattern_10-27-13...........(Option 1 Charts - 1 page each, to be printed on 8-1/2" x 11" paper)
10_KK_Stocking_Op1_Pattern_2pgs_10-27-13.......(Option 1 Charts - enlarged, 2 pages each, to be printed on 8-1/2" x 11" paper)
11_KK_Stocking_Op1_Pattern_11x17_10-27-13........(Option 1 Charts - enlarged, 1 page each, to be printed on 11" x 17" paper)

*Option 2 - Size Large, Small Toy Bag*
12_KK_Stocking_Op2_Pattern_10-27-13.........(Option 2 Charts - 1 page each, to be printed on 8-1/2" x 11" paper)
13_KK_Stocking_Op2_Pattern_2pgs_10-27-13......(Option 2 Charts - enlarged, 2 pages each, to be printed on 8-1/2" x 11" paper)
14_KK_Stocking_Op2_Pattern_11x17_10-27-13.......(Option 2 Charts - enlarged, 1 page each, to be printed on 11" x 17" paper)

*Option 3 - Size Large, Medium-Sized Toy Bag*
15_KK_Stocking_Op3_Pattern_10-27-13.........(Option 3 Charts - 1 page each, to be printed on 8-1/2" x 11" paper)
16_KK_Stocking_Op3_Pattern_2pgs_10-27-13......(Option 3 Charts - enlarged, 2 pages each, to be printed on 8-1/2" x 11" paper)
17_KK_Stocking_Op3_Pattern_11x17_10-27-13.......(Option 3 Charts - enlarged, 1 page each, to be printed on 11" x 17" paper)

*Option 4 - Size Large, Large-Sized Toy Bag*
18_KK_Stocking_Op4_Pattern_10-27-13.........(Option 4 Charts - 1 page each, to be printed on 8-1/2" x 11" paper)
19_KK_Stocking_Op4_Pattern_2pgs_10-27-13......(Option 4 Charts - enlarged, 2 pages each, to be printed on 8-1/2" x 11" paper)
20_KK_Stocking_Op4_Pattern_11x17_10-27-13......(Option 4 Charts - enlarged, 1 page each, to be printed on 11" x 17" paper)

*Option 5 - Size Extra-Large, Medium-Sized Toy Bag*
21_KK_Stocking_Op5_Instr_Basic_11-01-13..........(BASIC Instructions, normal font)
22_KK_Stocking_Op5_Instr_Basic_LF_11-01-13......(BASIC Instructions, *larger* font)
23_KK_Stocking_Op5_Instr_Detail_11-01-13.........(DETAILED Instructions, normal font)
24_KK_Stocking_Op5_Instr_Detail_LF_11-01-13.....(DETAILED Instructions, *larger* font)
25_KK_Stocking_Op5_Pattern_11-10-13..........................(Option 5 Charts - 1 page each, to be printed on 8-1/2" x 11" paper)
26_KK_Stocking_Op5_Pattern_2pgs_11-10-13..................(Option 5 Charts - enlarged, 2 pages each, to be printed on 8-1/2" x 11" paper)
27_KK_Stocking_Op5_Pattern_11x17_11-10-13................(Option 5 Charts - enlarged, 1 page each, to be printed on 11" x 17" paper)

*NOTE: Option 5 Instructions and Patterns are also available at the bottom of this post: * http://www.knittingparadise.com/tpr?p=4087666&t=206058

*Option 6 - Size Jumbo, Medium-Sized Toy Bag*
28_KK_Stocking_Op6_Pattern_10-27-13........(Option 6 Charts - 1 page each, to be printed on 8-1/2" x 11" paper)
29_KK_Stocking_Op6_Pattern_2pgs_10-27-13.......(Option 6 Charts - enlarged, 2 pages each, to be printed on 8-1/2" x 11" paper)
30_KK_Stocking_Op6_Pattern_11x17_10-27-13.....(Option 6 Charts - enlarged, 1 page each, to be printed on 11" x 17" paper)
============================


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## mom717

mom717 said:


> I will have to figure out how to post pictures. I do take pictures of my stockings. I have made many of the same ones but no two alike in a family, thus the pictures so I can keep track.


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## GinB

Mom717,

You may have been just learning how to knit back in 1967, but your stockings, including David's Kriss Kringle stocking, look terrific to me. I can appreciate all the work that went into making all those stockings. And that's just a sample of the stockings you've knitted over the years. Thank you for sharing your photo with us.

Ginny


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## artsydeb

Hi all, well jumped on board with this project. So far have finished name and now will soon start working on Santa.

Not bad considering was trying to do continental plus 1st time with any chart; plus printer decided it had no ink.......rofl. Did have bit of problem with name as thought was supposed to read chart from bottom right to left and then opposite next row as was on purl row and when did that it showed last letter first instead. So read from bottom left to right to start not sure if that was right but it worked. But seemed to work ok. Have attached pic I think....grin.


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## GinB

artsydeb said:


> "...thought was supposed to read chart from bottom right to left and then opposite next row as was on purl row and when did that it showed last letter first instead. So read from bottom left to right to start not sure if that was right but it worked..."


Deb,

Welcome to the workshop. I'm glad you finally were able to begin to knit your stocking and that the name worked out for you. It seems to be coming along well. In case you missed them, the following tips appeared in various posts within the workshop (a good reason to read all posts):

_Knit rows are all odd-numbered rows._

_Before beginning to knit, the chart is supposed to be turned upside-down._

_If it helps you to remember which row is a knit row and which is a purl row, then ON THE CHART write "K" next to each "knit" row, and write "P" next to each "purl" row._

========================

If you follow the above tips, from the upside-down viewpoint, when reading the chart...knit rows go from right to left and purl rows go from left to right.

The stocking begins with 7 rows of ribbing (Rows 1-7). Row 7, an odd-numbered row, is a "knit" row, which leaves you ready to "purl" the next row, which is when you change to white yarn.

You selected to use the Fair-Isle technique to personalize your stocking, which meant that you needed to stockinette-stitch-knit 3 rows of white before beginning the first row of stitches for the name. (Ahead of time, you would have charted your name on a practice graph and transferred and centered it between Rows 4 through 10.)

Row 8 (first row of white) is a *purl* row and the chart is *read from left to right*.

Row 9 is a *knit* row and the chart is *read from right to left*.

Row 10 is a *purl* row and the chart is *read from left to right*.

Row 11 is a *knit* row and the chart is read *right to left*. That meant that, while looking at the chart (and name) upside-down, you would have been reading the chart and knitting from *right to left*.

The instructions were written in a way that, if you had done *exactly* what the instructions said, your name would have come out perfectly.

========================

After the name is entered in its entirety, you knit 3 more rows of plain white, which ends on a purl row. That leaves you ready to begin your first green and white (Fair-Isle) row as a "knit" row.

Read through this reply again, while at the same time looking at your chart upside-down. Visualize each step as you read. You will see that it would have worked out correctly.

Ginny


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## jadancey

I want to thank you for the good, clear instructions. My only problem with them is me not reading them carefully. I noticed I had a couple of holes and couldn't figure out why. Then this morning at 3:30 am, I suddenly realized what I was doing wrong. I was not locking in the new yarn I was joining. I went back and re-read your instructions and it was like someone turned on a light switch. What a difference. I had problems with the face as well. I used a pink yarn that is not Super Saver and had holes around the eyes and the tension is not that good. Any advice, other than buying SS? Also, can yarn be carried over one or two stitches, like the pink over the eyes or nose? When do we weave in all the ends and before sewing up, how wide is the stocking? Sorry if this is so long, but I am enjoying knitting this so much and really want to do it right. I'm already planning the next one. Thanks.


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## GinB

jadancey said:


> I want to thank you for the good, clear instructions. My only problem with them is me not reading them carefully. I noticed I had a couple of holes and couldn't figure out why. Then this morning at 3:30 am, I suddenly realized what I was doing wrong. I was not locking in the new yarn I was joining.
> 
> I went back and re-read your instructions and it was like someone turned on a light switch. What a difference.
> 
> I had problems with the face as well. I used a pink yarn that is not Super Saver and had holes around the eyes and the tension is not that good.
> 
> Any advice, other than buying SS?
> 
> Also, can yarn be carried over one or two stitches, like the pink over the eyes or nose?
> 
> When do we weave in all the ends and before sewing up, how wide is the stocking? Sorry if this is so long, but I am enjoying knitting this so much and really want to do it right. I'm already planning the next one. Thanks.


Jadancey,

I separated your quote into sections so that it is easier to see and respond to. I'm glad that you were able to realize what happened...and found out that the instructions are your "friend". 

As far as how many stitches you can carry yarn in the back, that is what floats are, and that is Fair-Isle. Santa's face is stitched in intarsia, *not* Fair-Isle. Even though it may look strange while knitting Santa's face, I use a separate strand of yarn for each of Santa's eyes, a separate strand for his nose and a separate strand for his mouth, always "locking" the new color in the stitch before the color change. So, if that is what you were wondering when you asked how many stitches you can carry yarn in the back, for those areas, I do *not* carry yarn in the back.

With the exception of Fair-Isle, any time you change a yarn color, you should always lock the yarn in the stitch before the color change.

Don't worry if you see gaps there because, once you weave in the ends, they will disappear.

My stocking is 8 inches wide at the top and 6-3/4 inches before I start turning the heel. If you haven't figured it out yet, gauge is only important if you are doing more than one stocking for the same family and you want to be sure they are all the same size.

I do have a tip on weaving, but will tackle that later as I am on my way out the door.

Ginny


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## GinB

*WEAVING TIP:* Weave in yarn ends on the back (purl) side of your knitted piece by selecting a diagonal line of stitches that begins right where your yarn comes out of the stitch it is connected to, with the yarn end at the right and the diagonal line of stitches to the yarn end's left. (Of course, if you are left-handed, you can reverse this.)

If you try to just insert your needle through an entire line of diagonal stitches all at once, you will invariably split the fibers. In other words, you will not catch your needle dead center in the middle of each stitch.

The way *to* catch each stitch dead center with your needle tip (which makes it easier to hide the weaved-in yarn more invisibly...IMO) is this:

In the first stitch to the left of the yarn end, insert the needle tip. Bring the tip over (on top of) that stitch to verify you did not split the fibers of the strand.

Holding your work with your left hand and holding the base of the needle, point the needle tip *down*, and insert the needle tip dead center into the next stitch...only enough to catch that stitch in the needle tip.

Continue in this manner until you have selected as many diagonal stitches as you want to weave the yarn end into. (You will notice that the motions resemble a circular and counterclockwise motion (kind of like a tornado, but horizontally, with the needle base stationery and only moving the needle tip).

Pull your needle through all those stitches.

Hold your knitted piece (where the yarn end came out of your knitted fabric) between your index finger and thumb. Hold your other index finger and thumb on the other side and pull away from it slightly. That helps hide the yarn. Clip the yarn end.

(Sorry that I couldn't get the photos into better focus.)

====================

*Now, for the big question...when to weave in the ends of your yarn...*

If you weave your ends in and clip the yarn ends off before you sew your seams, it will be very difficult (if not impossible) to snug up your yarn ends in *as* you sew your seams. However, it is certainly easier to weave in the ends before sewing the seams, because it is easier to manipulate your knitted stocking while it is still flat.

So, the choice is yours. You can do it either before seaming *or* after.

However, if you weave your ends in *before* seaming, then *do NOT* clip the yarn ends until after you finish seaming. (At least, that way, you might still be able to snug up your yarn ends if you need to do so.

Ginny


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## GinB

Although some new people have begun to knit the stocking, there really hasn't been much in the way of posts lately. That leads me to believe that everything you need to complete your stockings from start to finish has already been provided. If you don't need additional help from me, then maybe it's time to close the workshop. All good things must come to an end. 

It has been a privilege and an honor to assist you while you made absolutely beautiful stockings. I know there will be many more as most of you finish your first one, and perhaps make more. You have shown patience, stick-to-it-iveness and comradery. While learning how to knit your first stocking (even though it was not designed to be worn on a foot LOL), some of you have mastered techniques that you were previously hesitant to try. To those, learning the skills involved with this stocking has opened new doors for you. Thats exciting. For all of the above reasons, I am *so* very proud of each and every one of you!!!!! My goal was to make this workshop fun for you. I do hope it was.

*Please remember to post photos of your completed stockings in the Parade.* Dont forget to include what yarn you used (and where you bought it from if it is not so easy to find), along with any information you think might be helpful to someone else who is considering making the stocking. Heres the Parade link again:

http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-208566-1.html#4144663

Don't forget to contact me if you wish to receive future stocking revisions. (Just send me a PM and include your first and last name, along with your email address.) As I said before, it is my gift to you for sharing your stocking knitting experiences with me, and for encouraging others with their stockings. Thank you so much. You are the ones who made this workshop a success!!!

As previously mentioned, I would love to see photos of your stockings with the person they were made for. If you would prefer to send me those family photos via email so that you can maintain your privacy, let me know and Ill give you my email address. With luck, maybe youll be in the photo as well.

Please keep in touchand I *do* mean that!!!

Some of you have seen my sense of humor shine through. Well, this is one of those instances. As I finished typing this, a song popped right into my headagainLOL. (Boy, did that bring up memories.) If the shoe fits (the stocking) So, in parting, Ill just say

Happy trails to you
Until we meet again
Happy trails to you
Keep smilin' until then
Who cares about the clouds when we're together
Just sing a song and think 'bout sunny weather
Happy trails to you
'Til we meet again.





_(Why the above won't come through as a link, I do not know. I love it. Do copy it into your browser and watch it.)_

Most sincerely,

Ginny


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## prismaticr

Per Ginny's previous post, if no new posts appear by Monday this workshop will be locked and remain apart of the permanent workshop section. If you have questions not answered here, please PM GinB after that. If there are MANY Pm's we can always open the workshop.

This post will remain here to mark the end of the workshop.

Thank you GinB for all your hard work!

Happy Knitting to ALL!


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## GinB

Railyn said:


> "...If you have any more hints about working with bobbins, I would be glad to hear them. I found the bobbins frustrating. Seemed like I spend more time winding and unwinding bobbins than I did knitting...."


Railyn,

Intarsia and bobbins go hand-in-hand. Each person had the option to prewind all their bobbins (if they had enough) or have 2 ready of each color - the more affordable option.

I did suggest a very inexpensive alternative - winding the yarn around clothespins and holding the end of the yarn in their springs.

If you hate taking time out in the middle of your knitting to wind new bobbins, my suggestion is to prewind what you consider to be enough to finish your project.

Ginny


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## jmai5421

Thanks for the workshop and grafting the name for me(Charlotte). I have completed the stocking to the first row of the intarsia Santa. I am really pleased with the way that the name looks. I will post when done. Sorry I can't post with the person unless I get a picture. Most likely it will be Facebook. The stocking is going via Grandma to Alexandria, VA to my new great niece. I got to see her in October and give her the sweaters, hat, booties, teddy blankie and knitted toys. She is so cute. Her Mom(my niece) loved everything. I would love to be there when she opens the Christmas stocking. Hopefully I can fill it with small knitted animals and a Gypsycream teddy bear on the top.


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## Railyn

GinB said:


> Railyn,
> If you hate taking time out in the middle of your knitting to wind new bobbins, my suggestion is to prewind what you consider to be enough to finish your project.
> 
> Thanks for your reply. I didn't make my question clear. While knitting it seems like I would unwind a bit of yarn and it would either be too much or too little and I found I was playing with the bobbins too much. I had plenty of bobbins, etc. so that was not the problem. What I have done in the past is to wind a length of yarn around my fingers, tie it off with an easily removed knot and used that instead of a bobbin. For some reason I found it easier but I know that is not the traditional way so I wanted to use bobbins and I still am not comfortable with bobbins.


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## peachy51

GinB said:


> _(Why the above won't come through as a link, I do not know. I love it. Do copy it into your browser and watch it.)_
> 
> Most sincerely,
> 
> Ginny


Ginny, it won't post as a link because of the "s" after the "http" -- anytime you post a link with the "s" there, just delete and "s" and it will post as a link and take you to the correct page.


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## GinB

busheytree said:


> Thank you for doing this workshop. I could not have done this without your guidance. I am only partway done on Santa's head, but it is further than I thought I could go. You have helped to stretch my knitting knowledge to a whole new realm.
> I am making this for my new one and only (so far) great granddaughter. I am hoping it will be a great start for her first Christmas and for years to come. Again, many, many thanks.


Bushey,

You can do it. I know you can. Think of how much this will mean to her in years to come. You are making great memories for her. As long as you read the Instructions carefully and take it as slowly as you need to, you'll do fine. Oh, and don't forget...when you are tired, put your knitting down until you catch up on your rest.

Even I screw up on occasion. I just had to frog about 8 rows. Now there is all this loose yarn around me and I haven't finished reknitting it. I mistakenly knit one section of Santa's belt red, thinking it was part of his suit. I failed to notice the solid line below that portion of the belt. I made the chart and I missed it. Geesh.)

Oh...if something like that happens to anyone, you don't have to reprint your graph. (You can, but you don't have to.) As I reknit, I'm using a darker highlighter to chart my progress over that frogged area. Once I am past that, I'm going back to hot pink.

Ginny


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## GinB

jadancey said:


> Thanks Ginny for this wonderful workshop. It has been a real challenge for me but I have learned so much. I was about half way thru the leg before I finally figured out how to work the intarsia and now I absolutely love it. Still a little shaky with the Fair Isle, but it will come. I'm working on the heel now and am very pleased with my stocking. Thank you again for your patience and knowledge.


JA,

I'm so glad to hear you now love Intarsia. So do I. As far as Fair-Isle goes, the important thing is having the right amount of give (tension) in the floats. You don't want the floats to sag, but if they are too snug, the work will pucker.

As you finished each set of stitches in the same color, pull those stitches from both sides to make sure the floats will stretch along with the knitting. The Fair-Isle should stretch *right with* the knitting. I also did the same thing when I completed each Fair-Isle row, pulling it from both sides of the row. (If there is a problem, it's better to catch it then, than to continue knitting and find out later. Practice on scrap yarn if you need to.

Ginny


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## GinB

prico48 said:


> "...Weaving ends can be perplexing! Watching youtube, any tutorial I can find, and still the end peeks through to the right side. So, considering this I am wondering if there is something I am totally doing incorrectly, or if others find that this happens on their work also!..."


Prico,

If you read my post about weaving in (if you didn't by all means read it now), I talked about weaving in your ends *on a diagonal*. Once I discovered that, I never again had ends show through the work.

Ginny


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## GinB

Hi, Everyone. This is my last post in the workshop.

I noticed that there were two errors in the black and white numbered chart that I hand-wrote. (Hey, Im human. I make mistakes. LOL.) I wanted the files with those mistakes replaced before the workshop closes today and was up until the wee hours of the morning working on a replacement. Rachel has removed the old files and has and uploaded the new files. (Thank you, Rachel, for making the last-minute change. You've been a blessing throughout the entire workshop.)

*Please make sure you download all of the new Option 5 pattern files.*

You are going to love the new black and white numbered chart (the only thing replaced). It

is is upside-down.

indicates where you begin knitting.

...is numbered every 10th row in red font.

has the stitches numbered, but they are typed, not handwritten.

has left-pointing arrows in the right margin, with the letter K for knit rows.

has right-pointing arrows in the left margin, with the letter P for purl rows.

has Santas nose and mouth in red font so you wont mistakenly knit it with black yarn (as I did more than once and had to frogLOL).

has a slightly different ribbing look, but its still ribbing.

So, you should not have a problem anymore of knowing which direction you should be reading the chart...and knitting (or purling) each row - it's all spelled out for you. The 1-page -1/2 x 11 chart was made as large as possible to fit on the page, but it is still small. My suggestion is to print out the 2-page version of that chart.

Bye, everyone. I will miss chatting with all of you. Please keep in touch.

Ginny

*P.S. This post is going to be removed, so please go and get your files now while it is fresh in your mind*


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## prismaticr

Topic is now closed. For additional information not found on these pages. please try and private message (pm) the listed teacher.

Thank you and happy knitting/crocheting!


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