# #12 CLOSED:-SECOND WATERFALL TOP WORKSHOP -



## Designer1234

*#12 WATERFALL TOP  2ND WORKSHOP*. 

*WORKSHOP INFORMATION * 
START HERE!

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We hope you enjoy this workshop!

Your section managers  designer1234 and prismaticr
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DESIGNER1234 (SHIRLEY) here !

Welcome to my second workshop where you will learn different methods of making my Waterfall top. Some of you are returning after taking the first workshop and I welcome you back. Some of you want to do the original top and I welcome you too.

Note:

I would recommend that you go to the following link which is the Parade of 
Waterfall tops, which were finished by the students as well as my tops
You will be able to see from these pictures what a wonderful variety of tops we made.

http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-117284-1.html

You are also very welcome to visit the first workshop by clicking on the above link(it is on the top and the bottom of each of these pages) where it says 
Knitting and crochet workshops with Designer1234 

 scroll down to #3 the first waterfall top class. You are welcome to read it and to refer to it while you are doing this 2nd workshop. I would recommend you do so. It is closed but the info is all there.
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Here we go with the original waterfall.

*INFORMATION* - see drawings below

Here is the cast on information for the waterfall tops.

you will use small size- l0, 10.5 or 11 US needles to do the neck portion of this top.( 6, 6.5 or 8 mm.)

Size 11 (8mm) work well for the larger size and you might like a size smaller for the smaller necks. needles

You will do this top in GARTER STITCH throughout -until you start the sleeves.

*Size small, medium and large sizes*

you will *cast on 36 stitches and place markers as shown on the drawing* knit 5- place marker, knit 7- place marker, knit 6- place marker, (center back)knit- 6 pm, knit 7- pm,knit 5.
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*extra large and larger *

*cast on 42 stitches and place markers as shown* as above
These are just rough drawings showing you how to set up your top. 
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Knit 8 - 10 rows with the smaller needles - DO NOT INCREASE FOR THESE ROWS. JUST KNIT THEM IN GARTER STITCH . 
For the larger sizes use size 11 needles for the neck rows.
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CHANGE TO SIZE 13 (9mm) - or size 15(10mm) needles -I use the smaller size (13) if I have them- for a few rows, and then change to #15) for the balance of the top IT IS OKAY IF YOU ONLY HAVE THE ONE SIZE -

Now start your increases - *every other row throughout the top*
increasing the 2nd stitch at the front - increase both sides of all markers and increase one stitch before the end of the row increasing before the last stitch - finish with a knit one with knit one -SEE DIAGRAMS BELOW
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*This is your pattern*_yes, that is right - this is all you have to do for the top of your Waterfall. The bottom is even easier than that_!!!

I will post to show you how to join the fronts to the back under the arms at a later post.

I know this looks unbelievable , but it is exactly what you have to do. If it worries you, ask away.

NOTE: there are no rules for this top so if you wish to do it in SS you are welcome to do so. I don't think it would look as lacy but it might still work well. NO RULES HERE!


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## Designer1234

*You Must have a 45-52 cable and I doubt there are any regular circular needles available. This is necessary for the original waterfall*, -

If you have interchangeable needles you can add cables to each other to reach the right size

*I recommend sport weight yarn or finer yarn*._You can use worsted but your sweater will be quite heavy_ -

you just follow the outline exactly as written, no matter what type of yarn you us. You can use very fine lace yarn if you wish as it makes a lovely lacy effect when using the larger needles. but if you want the lacy effect it would be harder to obtain the same look if you use heavier weight yarns.

I am giving you two different pattern sizes  one will work for small, medium and large sizes, the second will work for 1X,2X or 3X sizes.


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## Designer1234

Here is a picture of my second waterfall top - I saw something like it in one of the stores, and thought i would see if I could make one. When I got the first one finished I immediately made another one. this is sport weight yarn, and I quite like it.

I have had so many people stop me to remark on this top. it is so comfortable and SO EASY!.


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## Designer1234

Here is one of the lacy tops which I love to wear out. It goes with anything. It is a fine weight yarn -thinner than sport weight. 
I am going to make one in sock weight yarn on this workshop and hope to change the pattern while I am at it. I haven't decided about the point in the back -- I like the slimming effect of the point - my brown sweater was knit without the point and next time I would make it longer.


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## Designer1234

here are more pictures. 

The brown top is in sport weight yarn and I didn't put the point in the back--I just removed that marker. I get a lot of wear out of it .
I wore it a lot in the fall here in Calgary and I quite like it. I used
mosaic (think it was patons) for the stripes as it works so nicely indifferent colors. I also used some eyelash yarn in dark brown to see how it would work.


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## Designer1234

DESIGN ELEMENTS


It is cast on at the neck -- knit down 8 - l0 rows without increasing -with the smaller needles, then change to your l3 or 15 size needles and continue increasing as shown and knit in garter stitch every other row until the sleeve stitches are put on a stitch holder (I will tell you how to do that when we get there) and then the bottom is picked up and you will continue until it is finished . I will give you the exact instructions when we start.

You can also decide whether you have a point in the back which I like the best , However that will be your decision. You will learn how to do it both ways. 

here are the rough diagrams of the shape-see rough drawings below (The little black strips on the one that looks like a flying bat or ray, are the sleeves - didn't realize that it doesn't look like sleeves 

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If you want a design you can do the following Another thing you can do - knit your Row one- k2tog,yarnover across the whole top,increasing as usual , and then knit into the yarn overs on the next row. This will give you a nice pattern - The possibilities are endless. 

Once we are finished with the body portion we will pick up the sleeve stitches adding stitches where we have increased under the arms, and then we will use circular needles and knit them to the length we want. I didn't decrease- I like the sleeves fairly loose. I am also thinking of widening the sleeves on the one I plan on doing for Christmas. 
'On this example I wll do it like the others.


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## Designer1234

INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING THIS TOP - make a copy of the above drawings --They are basically your pattern! This will work on most sizes as there is no actual neck shaping - just knit the rows (8-10 rows without increasing)-- it just hangs down to the points on each front. 

Now change your needles to the larger size (13 or 15) and start increasing every other row in garter stitch. 
I usually increase one stitch in from each front edge , and increase on each side of the markers. every other row. then for 
every other row, knit across without increasing - that is your pattern.




It is pretty self explanatory-- 
It shows the castons and where you place your markers *five markers* Use the smaller needles for 8 -10 rows when you cast on the neck stitches (see the diagram) then change to the larger needles and away you go. KNIT EACH ROW 

Measure 8" down on the center back point and start a strip, which is about 4 -5 inches wide you can use one color or a variety -- this is what makes the top so slimming, as it makes a 
V in the front because of all the increases --make sure you do have a strip of different colors as it is not nearly as effective when there is no strip!


keep on knitting -- once the increase angle from the neck to the shoulder is11" to 12" long , you will put the shoulder stitches on a stitch holder ( I use a cable with my denise but you can use yarn and knot the ends. Make sure that there is a comfortable area for your arms. 

Once you have done that - knit across the fronts and backs and if you feel you will need a bit of extra room under the arms you can cast on 3 or 4 or more stitches - I usually do as I am wider through the stomach and hips than the top -- but I don't need more than 3 or 4. 


Carry on, and on, and on -- increasing l stitch in on both fronts and on each side of the back marker every other row.

You will note that the sides are quite a bit shorter than the front and back points. This is correct. 

Once you have the length you want - (make it long enough) see my pictures- then cast off -- if you crochet, I crochet 
double crochets across the bottom , increasing at the markers - it works up very nicely and gives a pretty finish - (check out the picture of the black and you will see the first row of dc's . finish the bottom whatever way you want. That is the body.

Now- pick up the sleeve stitches, including the cast ons if you added them - and using circular needles - knit with the larger needles until you have the length you want. This will show up as stocking stitch - and works well. YOu can have a wider sleeve bottom, short sleeve, long sleeve, medium sleeve - you can put a design on the bottoms- I would not put on a cuff as I tried it and it didn't, in my opinion look very good.

I do sometimes add a strip to match the strip on the body part of the top. it is entirely up to you. I also add the crochet double crochet borders to match the bottom - but not always. 

That is all there is to this 'pattern'. On the first workshop the girls did their own thing and as you can see from the' Parade' they did some wonderful work.
Enjoy!
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For those who want to try something different than the above.

Here are some suggestions -- leave off the point at the back, or

use heavier yarn, or 

follow the above guideline (which I am going to do) and add either crochet lace, or knitted lace on the bottom.

You can also try a pullover using this idea. 

I am thinking of using some sock wool- Kroy sock yarn in bright colors to see how it will work. I also have a pretty 
tomatoe colored yarn and matching 3 color yarn so I am going to think about which combination I want to use. 

I think I will follow the pattern for the top portion and try something new with the bottom half- maybe some y/o's or a pattern of some sort. As we work sideways and as there are points I am going to try to figure out something that will be pretty. 
There will be no buttons - as I like the neckline on the original top so it will be just a casual top, no buttons but lacy bottom. NOt sure whether i will decide on short sleeves or longer sleeves. 

I hope those who have done the first workshop will join me and design their own. Shirley

Have fun ladies--this is great to wear in rooms with air conditioning , over a t - I wear mine all the time. 


If you are concerned in any way- please post - don't pm, ask me all the questions here as they may be something the others will want answered too.
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## Revan

Hi, I love your Waterfall. Thank you for posting another class for this beautiful top. I will look in my stash and see what I have. I would like to try my hand at this. Revan


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## Chezl

Do you think a variegated yarn would show the points properly? My favourite type of yarn is variegated in any colour and I have lots of it.


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## Designer1234

Chezl said:


> Do you think a variegated yarn would show the points properly? My favourite type of yarn is variegated in any colour and I have lots of it.


I haven't done one but I can't see any reason why it would not make a lovely top. go for it!


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## Vignewood

How much yarn is required?


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## Designer1234

Vignewood said:


> How much yarn is required?


This is a difficult question to answer as everyone does their own thing. I would think that it would depend on the weight you want to use and the size of your needles.

I have found that 3 balls of sport weight yarn is plenty -when you put in a 2-3 inch color strip. I have never worried about the amount of yarn as I start with a yarn that I have at least two balls -and always make sure there is a contrasting yarn -(I am not fussy if it isn't the same exact weight and you can also mix the colors for the stripe- which is an important feature of the top. I have started with a main color and have added white or black with a color and instead of just one stripe as in the first one, I have added other stripes -- they are very slimming and it works out well. I have used sock weight yarn as well, and always have at least l50-200 grams with other contrasting colors for the stripes.

You can always play with it while you are knitting the top.

The thing is ladies-- there are no rules on this workshop. It is a hard change for some knitters, but it DOES work -- I have never worried about the amount of yarn - I know this is difficult to understand, but this class is all about going for it and innovating.

Designer


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## Gweniepooh

Designer I have 2 questions; I'm using Comfort DK yarn and am now on the size 15 needles, size 1xplus pattern.

Questions: 1. When measuring the 4-5 inches down for placement for the first stripes do you measure from the top edge OR from the bottom of the 8 initial rows?

2. When you have changed colors what method have you used? Do you just make sure you are at the end of the row and afterwards weave in the tails or do you use some other method? If you use the magic knot how do you ensure the new color begins at the appropriate place?

Thanks'
Gwen

*ANSWERS *-- These are all excellent questions.

#1 It really is another thing that each person can choose. As you are in one of the larger sizes I would go at least 6" down from the bottom of the neck (where you started using larger needles. I would make it at least 3 " wide. I just finished one in that size -- I started with a strip in silver 4 rows - then went back to the original yarn, for 1.5" and then did another strip 2.5" wide , then back to the original dark yarn. it is very effective. The larger the size pattern the more important the strips are as they are very slimming as they come down into the points.

#2 Changing colors. this is the most difficult part of this top as it is so lacy so I have been trying different ways. The first 2 tops I changed at the beginning of the row only started in two stitches which helps it lie flat. , changing which edge I started on each color change so that the edges didn't have all the weaving in was on one side. It worked quite well, as I finished with a few rows of half double crochets which covered them very well from the bottom up the front, over the neck and down to the bottom on the other side. I made sure the weaving was incorporated into the edging.- I wove up the length rather than out into the top.

I have since been trying different methods with the latest tops- as it is very lacy, it is hard to weave in so that it will be held. 
I have been doing the magic knot under one of the arms which won't show. I make very sure that the knot is firm. I also change which arm I change color on for the same reason as above. this works very well with yarn that is not shiny and slippery so I would go for that and change under the arm. However, if it is slippery yarn I knit the two yarns together -again under the yarn for 4 stitches at least - leave a 4" length when I cut it and weave it back through the double knitted stitches. then cut off.

It is not noticeable that it starts under the arm when it is worn.

As we are using fairly fine yarn and big needles, this is one of the difficulties but they can be solved. another thing i have done is a magic knot and then I wove both ends in for a few stitches, but I don't think this is necessary.

Hope this helps.


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## Gweniepooh

GRRRR... two of my markers came untied and I didn't notice so I frogged back to the 8 rows and began again. This time kept doing garter stitch and am equally happy as when I had changed to SS. Am back to where I was and have sent DH to find something to use as markers on the size 15 needles instead of yarn. Sure don't want that to happen again. Love the way this is looking. 

Have decided to do my stripes 3 colors; Considering a 4.5" stripe with it consisting of 2" in pink, 1/2 " in tan and 2" in green. How do you think that will look?


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## Designer1234

Gweniepooh said:


> GRRRR... two of my markers came untied and I didn't notice so I frogged back to the 8 rows and began again. This time kept doing garter stitch and am equally happy as when I had changed to SS. Am back to where I was and have sent DH to find something to use as markers on the size 15 needles instead of yarn. Sure don't want that to happen again. Love the way this is looking.
> 
> Have decided to do my stripes 3 colors; Considering a 4.5" stripe with it consisting of 2" in pink, 1/2 " in tan and 2" in green. How do you think that will look?


It sounds great -- it will be different and one of a kind. YOu will love wearing this top--everyone I have made has brought forward great remarks - even from strangers. It is so slimming and suits every one no matter what size or shape. the points going down are so attractive. I made it with no idea what I was going to end up with- sure glad I did.


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## dragonflylace

Okay, I am in on this one....you may ask, what are you doing over here Dragonflylace???? :? 

Well, I just had to see what Designer1234 was offering in this beautiful sweater jacket.

So I will be working with a dk wt yarn in shades of dk to medium blue.

Been looking for the perfect place to use this and I have found it.

Looking forward to casting on and getting started.


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## Designer1234

Just check out the first page, and if you have the time you might want to read the first workshop through from the beginning - it is closed but you can still read it. 


I have decided to go with the regular top rather than change it too much. I have a pretty salmon yarn and so I started with the pointed back, but might put some crochet shells down the front once I separate for the sleeves, will decide that when I get there. 

Welcome everyone -- there are not a lot of us but that doesn't matter. We will just work together and see what each of us ends up with. Also check out the parade of Waterfall tops (search Parades) and you will see them all together - mind you most are in the first workshop.


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## Gweniepooh

Gwen here; DK wt yarn, 1xplus . I have knited down through putting in a multi colored 4" stripe and then added one row so far of the main color. If I am understanding correctly I keep knittin, possibly adding in more stripes if desired until I have reached 11-12" measured from the increased angle from neck to shoulder. (Hope I've stated that correctly)

My QUESTION: I am not sure what is meant by "increase angle". Is that from the second marker to the neck? Is it possible for you to show a diagram of how/where this measurement is to be taken? I don't want to knit too far.


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## Designer1234

I mean the slanted shoulder to underarm increases on both sides of what will be come the sleeves The increase lines at the first and second and the 4th and fifth lines made by the increases. This is the line you have to measure so you will have it deep enough when the bottoms of the line meet under arm, so that your arm has lots of room. * See the last picture I posted, with the dark grey* --( Both of these were extra large I measured it as 11" on the first top and 12" on the second top- the lady with the second top had very large arms) My own shoulder to underarm length is 9.5" so it depends on the size of your bust and the circumference of your arm. don't do it too tight -

I would suggest you knit the length you think will work, and pin the under arm points together and see how much room you have for your arm when you put it through the circles. you will then put the stitches (arm stitches on a long piece of yarn, knot it- and leave each sleeve until the end to knit it.

You will then knit across the front, the back and the other front for the bottom of your top. If you are larger at the bottom - cast on 3 or 4 stitches under each arm when you join the fronts to the back.


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## Gweniepooh

Thank you Shirley. By the way. DH took this picture so you could see me knitting with the cast. Really funny looking.


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## deborah337

I guess I am confused about the armholes.How do I know when to put the stitches on hold and how many do I put on hold? everything seems clear up to that point. Thanks.


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## Gweniepooh

Deborah I just asked the same question. Look at the reply above my posted picture and see if this helps. Gwen


deborah337 said:


> I guess I am confused about the armholes.How do I know when to put the stitches on hold and how many do I put on hold? everything seems clear up to that point. Thanks.


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## Designer1234

Yes, I covered the questions in a recent post. The depth of the sleeve increase depends on the size of your bust and the circumference of your arms.

_I am repeating some of what I have said, and I know patterns are not written that way, but we are working on a concept, not a specific pattern. Maybe it is more understandable being explained more than once. If you get it -- just skip this particular part of the post_.

once you have 8 inches(see the grey example of the one I just finished, take a pin or a piece of yarn and while the stitches are still on the needles, pin the two corners of each sleeve together. this will make the armholes.

then try on the top - it is a bit awkward but you can tell how it is sitting and how much more room you will need. Don't make your sleeve hole too small. I would give at least two inches slack. then put all the sleeve stitches on a piece of yarn and knot the yarn, leaving extra yarn so that it isn't pulled tight.

If you are small busted it won't be nearly as long, but of you are big busted it will need more length from the shoulders to under the arm. *If you are uncertain - you can also do a measurement -get someone to measure you from the neck-shoulder join down to under the arm. then add 2 inches*.

this is a very forgiving top - as it doesn't have to meet in the fronts - it sits on the shoulders and drops straight down to the points. I am wider in the bottom half than the top, but add extra stitches under the arm so that there is more size in the bottom half.

then knit across the front under where you have joined the sleeve bottoms, cast on 3 extra stitches (or more depending on whether you are slim hipped, or like me much bigger than the top portion of your sweater) for under the arm - or, if you are biggerer in the tummy than the top, (I am wider around my stomach- hips than my top, so I always add a few stitches more, depending how deep I have made the sleeves, how big the sleeve hole is and no two of mine are exactly the same because of the yarn.-

then knit across the back , and do the same thing with the other sleeve. then cast off the same number of stitches as the first side, and then knit across the second front.

carry on with your increases in the front, back (if you are putting a point in the back, and across to the other front edge. you are now working on the bottom of the sweater. Just keep on until it is the length you want. Remember to check out out how low the point is -- they can be quite long. you can also put another strip in as it is so slimming. check out the pictures here and in the closed waterfall workshop -

Go to the Parade - and look at all the different types of tops - it boggled my mind on the first workshop as the did exactly what I hoped they would do! Each person used her own ideas and look at the differences in the tops!

Waterfall tops: http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-117284-1.html

(I would put it in a bookmark)

I know that this is scary for a lot of you who are used to always using a pattern. But as you can see from the pictures, it does work.


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## Designer1234

Gweniepooh said:


> Thank you Shirley. By the way. DH took this picture so you could see me knitting with the cast. Really funny looking.


I can't get over how well you are doing. I can see that you have some of your stripe done. that looks like it is going to be a beautiful sweater. how about posting a working in progress picture. you are doing a great job. I think we are ready to see how it is coming along. just lie it flat and take a picture.


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## Designer1234

Here are a few of the tops the girls made in the last workshop. we had lots of fun!


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## Designer1234

Designer1234 said:


> Here are a few of the tops the girls made in the last workshop. we had lots of fun!


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## Lurker 2

I think I am going to have to invest in some new needles, Designer do you have any particular recommendation?


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## Designer1234

I have a set of Denise interchangeables and a 52" cord and it works perfectly for this top. nice to see you here Julie - Denise are the least expensive of any of the interchangeables. It does need a long cord as it has a very wide bottom because of the points in the fronts and back - lots of stitches. extremely easiy to make though.


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## montgal

I have been looking on line for suitable yarn. I know you have been asked this before but surely some former students kept track of their yarn usage. I don't have access to a yarn store, and I don't want to run out. Do I want fingering yarn? I found a large cone of machine wool yarn. Would that be too fine? I am sorry I am such a novice. Just feel unsure of what to do. Thanks.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Lion-Brand-Cone-Wool-Yarn/21265501

ANSWER:
I think 250 grams of sport or fingering or sock yarn would would be enough [ I bought a large ball of sport weight red heart in dark grey for one of mine -- had lots left over -- used pinks and darker grey for the stripe-- you also want to have half a ball of contrasting color - You can also use wider strips -- I am sorry - I will measure on my next one but it depends on the size you want, and also on the weight. I am using 4- 50.gm balls or less, with a 50 gm of contrasting yarn for the one i am doing. I don't think I will need it all. It can be a different weight- for the stripe -- which adds a lot to the top as it is very slimming and with the points it hangs beautifully-- check out the pictures. Just go for it. that is the secret of this top.

Gwennie - how much yarn did you buy of the dark and how much will you use of your strips or do you know? Shirley


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## LesleighAnne

Hi Everbody

I'm in on this project. I will have to buy new needles so I will be a bit behind you. So so looking forward to seeing everybodies top.


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## leena

I would love to knit your waterfall jacket could you please give ma the correct size needles to purchase here in the UK I have quite a lot of yarn that is begging to be knitted and would love to use some of it. Many thanks for any help you can give me. happy knitting leena


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## AverilC

leena said:


> I would love to knit your waterfall jacket could you please give ma the correct size needles to purchase here in the UK I have quite a lot of yarn that is begging to be knitted and would love to use some of it. Many thanks for any help you can give me. happy knitting leena


Hi Leena, this is a fun project to make. You need to use whatever size needles are applicable for the yarn you choose. This is a project to personalise whichever way you want whether you use fine yarn or chunky which is what I used (Crofter chunky) was very pleased with the way it came up. So you can get some ideas look at the parade of waterfall tops, http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-117284-1.html


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## Gweniepooh

I bought 6 - 50 gram/178 yds;165 m BUT will probably have a good bit left over. That was for the main color. I bought a single skien of 3 colors for the stripes and will have a LOT left over. This was of a DK by Berroco called Comfy DK. I am making the larger size too. I will get a pic posted soon.

quote=montgal]I have been looking on line for suitable yarn. I know you have been asked this before but surely some former students kept track of their yarn usage. I don't have access to a yarn store, and I don't want to run out. Do I want fingering yarn? I found a large cone of machine wool yarn. Would that be too fine? I am sorry I am such a novice. Just feel unsure of what to do. Thanks.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Lion-Brand-Cone-Wool-Yarn/21265501

I think 250 grams of sport or fingering or sock yarn would would be enough [ I bought a large ball of sport weight red heart in dark grey for one of mine -- had lots left over -- used pinks and darker grey for the stripe-- you also want to have half a ball of contrasting color - You can also use wider strips -- I am sorry - I will measure on my next one but it depends on the size you want, and also on the weight. I am using 4- 50.gm balls or less, with a 50 gm of contrasting yarn for the one i am doing. I don't think I will need it all. It can be a different weight- for the stripe -- which adds a lot to the top as it is very slimming and with the points it hangs beautifully-- check out the pictures. Just go for it. that is the secret of this top.

Gwennie - how much yarn did you buy of the dark and how much will you use of your strips or do you know? Shirley[/quote]


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## deborah337

so, basically, the arm sections are the stitches between the first and second markers and the third and fourth markers? I guess I am a visual person, words don't give me the picture sometimes.


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## Gweniepooh

Progress so far. Have use about 2/3 of one of the 50 gm skeins of the dark blue and a negligible amout of the others. 

Now need to decide which color from the stripe to do a single narrower stripe. I'm leaning toward a pink and tan combo; opinions welcome :?:


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## Lurker 2

Gweniepooh said:


> Progress so far. Have use about 2/3 of one of the 50 gm skeins of the dark blue and a negligible amout of the others.
> 
> Now need to decide which color from the stripe to do a single narrower stripe. I'm leaning toward a pink and tan combo; opinions welcome :?:


and what is so remarkable, is this is all being accomplished with one hand in a cast! Good on ya Gwen! [as we say down here!]


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## Designer1234

------------------
JUST A NOTE ABOUT MY FEELINGS ABOUT THIS TOP AND MY WORK BUT MAINLY MY ATTITUDE ABOUT CREATING DIFFERENT PROJECTS.

My workshops are set up so that you will see that you don't have to ALWAYS be precise and have a specific pattern.

I know I am the 'different' one, but I never have enjoyed being restricted to a pattern. 

Another thing - when some people see something difficult- they say" I know I can't do that, or I doubt I can do it
' and they don't even start - which is their right --- Others, like you all, are intrigued by the idea, and wonder if maybe - you could go in a different direction with your knitting or crochet, if you wanted to -- those are the ones who take my classes. 

The story of my life is:It is the nature of the beast for me to say hmm- how can I do that - then start doing it. But not following a pattern, skimming the pattern, picking out the important parts and starting it differently and doing it my own way. I sometimes need an idea and 
go from there- rarely do I know what I am going to do in the next portion of the project. I certainly have had some failures, but far fewer than you would think, but as I gained confidence my instincts got better and I tried new things that were workable, rather than unworkable. 

so I just hope you enjoy doing this workshop and I hope you will consider coming to my Sweater workshop which is more involved and takes more measurements etc. but which gives you a completely one of a kind sweater.

It is called the coat of many colors and I have taught 3 successful workshops on KP -- watch for it if you enjoy doing this one. 

I rarely know what I am going to end up with any of my projects- I don't quit because I am uncomfortable - that is my feeling in nearly all the projects I have ever made - I get uncomfortable, and instead of quitting - I just go over the 
cliff, or change my path and keep on with it- knitting, quilting, painting, jewelery stained glass - and on an on.-

I just start and let it happen. I realize not many are interested in carrying it that far but this is a case where you can do that on something that is not complicated,and we haven't had a failure yet. 

Some started and quit which is perfectly okay, but others started, struggled and finished and it opened new doors because they proved that they could wander outside the box at least sometimes. so ladies, please have fun and GO FOR IT.

One more thing- my main passion in my life is teaching - the easiest way to reach a final result -- I am always looking for ways to simplify a difficult method. 

I know that this doesn't work with wonderfully involved patterns, like some lace projects, or an aran sweater- I made an aran sweater-like pullover a couple of years ago by casting on and putting entirely different patterns in the sweater-I had no idea what I was doing - ribs, yarn overs, simple cables (didn't know how to do difficult cables) incorporated crochet, etc. etc.- It was lovely, and it looked a bit like an aran - but I called it a Canadian sweater! My sister still wears it and has had lots of compliments on it. I didn't take a picture, (big mistake) 
TAKE PICTURES! or you will forget what you did. 

I also started using notebooks as I don't remember what I did to accomplish something - needle size, yarn, cast on numbers, 
any changes, patterns, everything about the project or you will forget how you did it or even that you did it. 

Anyway, off my soap box -- I wrote this because people more and more ask my how I got into doing these 'different projects'. 

Just don't be afraid - 

eg. one of the girls on KP wondered how to make a cowl.
I told her the size she should knit, suggested she put a border at the long sides of the cowl. - and suggested she make up her own pattern design to make one -- she made a beautiful, original cowl and was really happy with it. That is what I want to get across to my students-- start small but do your own thing.




Shirl


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## Gweniepooh

Yes that is right. I'm visual also. Have attached pic that might help. It may be just me but I can see a slight difference in the stitch following the marker across the piece.



deborah337 said:


> so, basically, the arm sections are the stitches between the first and second markers and the third and fourth markers? I guess I am a visual person, words don't give me the picture sometimes.


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## Gweniepooh

Thank you lurker; when boredom strikes I knit so obviously I've been bored a lot. LOL Seriously it's about all I can manage since I can't bear much weight right now I just sit and knit a lot!


Lurker 2 said:


> Gweniepooh said:
> 
> 
> 
> Progress so far. Have use about 2/3 of one of the 50 gm skeins of the dark blue and a negligible amout of the others.
> 
> Now need to decide which color from the stripe to do a single narrower stripe. I'm leaning toward a pink and tan combo; opinions welcome :?:
> 
> 
> 
> and what is so remarkable, is this is all being accomplished with one hand in a cast! Good on ya Gwen! [as we say down here!]
Click to expand...


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## Gweniepooh

Oh I fully intend on doing the Coat of Many Colors workshop. Have already started reading about it. I'm thinking of making a Magic Ball from my stash for the bottom part. 


Designer1234 said:


> ------------------
> JUST A NOTE ABOUT MY FEELINGS ABOUT THIS TOP AND MY WORK BUT MAINLY MY ATTITUDE ABOUT CREATING DIFFERENT PROJECTS.
> 
> so I just hope you enjoy doing this workshop and I hope you will consider coming to my Sweater workshop which is more involved and takes more measurements etc. but which gives you a completely one of a kind sweater.
> 
> It is called the coat of many colors and I have taught 3 successful workshops on KP -- watch for it if you enjoy doing this one.
> 
> Shirl


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## Designer1234

deborah337 said:


> so, basically, the arm sections are the stitches between the first and second markers and the third and fourth markers? I guess I am a visual person, words don't give me the picture sometimes.


That is correct-- when the space between the markers is wide enough to encircle your arm comfortably - not too tight as you want it to 'flow' a bit. you will put the stitches between the two markers together on a fairly long piece of yarn and knot it so they don't pull out . Then knit your bottom section increasing 2-6 stitches under the arm depending on how small or large your are for your bottom half :thumbup:

just like you do with any top down sweater. I always do the sleeves last but that is your choice. My reasoning is that I never know how I am going to do the bottom and usually like the sleeves to have the same general appearance, so if you add a border or whatever on the bottom you can work that into the sleeves.


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## Designer1234

leena said:


> I would love to knit your waterfall jacket could you please give ma the correct size needles to purchase here in the UK I have quite a lot of yarn that is begging to be knitted and would love to use some of it. Many thanks for any help you can give me. happy knitting leena


read the instructions starting at page one - the information is there.


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## Designer1234

Here are some pictures of my "coats of many colors" -- I won't leave them here permanently, but I have about 5 of them and have made 8 - they are all 'one of a kind' gives you an idea of what I am talking about. by the way, for the first sweater, I ended up putting cuffs on it - and blocked it (not blocked in the picture). I wear it all the time.
The others are all my coats- onely my dil's is blocked ( I do like them blocked. I crochet the front and bands on each of them and some in some cases I use a crab crochet stitch up the fronts and around the necks. 

I will remove these in a couple of days- just gives you an idea of what you can accomplish when you decide you want to let go of the preciseness and 'go for it' The "Parade of 'Coat of many colors' shows what the girls did - some really went off on tangents and made wonderful, original sweaters.


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## Gweniepooh

Love these designer; especially partial to the light green and the red/burgundy one. Now I can't wait to finish to waterfall top and start one of these. Oh my goodness what have you set loose in me Shirley! LOL Wonderful!


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## Designer1234

leena said:


> I would love to knit your waterfall jacket could you please give ma the correct size needles to purchase here in the UK I have quite a lot of yarn that is begging to be knitted and would love to use some of it. Many thanks for any help you can give me. happy knitting leena


If you read the first page - you will see where I explain that you need a circular needle (interchangeable) with a 45" - 52" cable to hold all the stitches across the bottom. I have a Denise Interchangeable set which I use for just about everything but socks. It is one of the least expensive of the interchangeables but I love mine. I hope you can find them. Any interchangeable needle set will work as you can add the cables together as your works gets longer.

I am going to try a crochet top next as that would solve the prolem of having to have long needles. Designer


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## Designer1234

I decided to try y/0 increases at the marker and k/p increases at each front. I am not sure whether I am going to like it as well as the others as I really won't be able to tell until I see how it hangs when it is finished. here is mine, well underway. I am using a lace weight yarn with a slightly heavier silver and another ball that is a bit heavier - for the stripes. I like the color. still have a ways to go on the top before I put the arm stitches on the contrasting yarn and
start the bottom half.


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## Gweniepooh

Like the colors Designer. Seems sort of a southwest theme.


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## Designer1234

Gweniepooh said:


> Like the colors Designer. Seems sort of a southwest theme.


something different for me, but I like the colors too, and you are right - actually it reminds me of Utah with the red rocks.

I have 2 dark tops and a couple of medium so I needed something different. I am nearly ready to do the bottom of the sleeves. then I will have to decide how I am going to do the bottom section. I really want to do something different so I might cast off and then try doing some crochet lace, OR try to do some lace ribs in knitting. will be fooling around with it until I see what I will try.

lots of fun.


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## montgal

These are so pretty, but I agree with you. The white one is quite lovely.


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## Revan

Hi, I am in the process of knitting the "Winter Mirage" lace scarf in Dragonfly Lace's class and want to complete this until I start the Waterfall top. So, I will be bringing up the rear, but will continue to read the posts. I have an idea of yarn I want to use. Thank you again for having this class and others. Revan


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## Dintoo

I wanted to take this workshop too, but am finishing the magic loop first, so will be late for this one. Hope the info is available , even if I don't get to it before the class closes. Would also like to do the coat of many colours workshop. Sigh! Too many projects, too little time!


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## Gweniepooh

Just planning ahead...when do you expect to do the Coat of Many Colors workshop again Designer?


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## Designer1234

I have it down to open on Feb. 22 - and the actual class to start a few days later But as a lot is going on, I am thinking *I will hold off until into May the 22*. We have lots of classes going and I think it would be a good idea to give people lots of time to finish their projects. I will likely do an original top down and those who wish to finish their 'Coats of Many colors" can join in. I have a very good pattern for a basic top down cardigan and am going to do a sweater from some wool I got from India this week with that pattern. I hope to put a simple pattern down the front of the cardigan. The yarn is so beautiful I don't need much in the way of a fancy stitch in it.

I will write down what I do for the top down class in May in my notebook - (I put everything in my notebook - for later reference).

All the information on that workshop Coat of Many colors (closed)is available if someone wants to do it now or whenever they can. I will leave this workshop open if anyone wants to start it - I see that some are hoping to start the waterfall sometime in the near future so we can work on whichever sweater you wish.-and they are welcome to ask questions here. The information would be the same and I am quite willing for someone to start and to follow the original workshop and work on it here. We will keep this one open for quite some time if anyone decides to follow this idea.

If you decide you want to start one Gwennie and others, just let me know -- and read the information and ask any questions here. It is pretty well covered in the closed workshop.


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## Lurker 2

Designer1234 said:


> I have put some ideas on here for a sweater workshop -- and am wondering whether you think this would make a worthwhile workshop. I would supply the embroidery patterns - they are my own, although they, as usual would be different than a regular chart . there are different styles of sweater here. they could be changed over to a top down style but it would be more difficult to get the strips needed.
> 
> I would teach it using the same method as my coat of many colors. Would you let me know what you think about this? I would still be willing to teach the coat of many colors but it would have to be done separately. I need your input. I will leave these up for a couple of days. these are easier in lots ways than the Coat of Many colors. It is a lot of work but I love teaching so if there is legitimate interest I would be willing to do a class. I won't be hurt if you feel it is not a good class. thanks ladies. Gwennie and others, what do you think?





lurker2 said:


> Along with the work for my own workshop- and the Waterfall top, which is progressing well, but slowly because I am using a very fine yarn, I will not be a starter for this sweater workshop, at least currently


!

no problem -- I am not asking for signups I am just asking whether you think there might be enough interest in doing a sweater like this. I appreciate your input lurker. I also appreciate it that you are going to teach a workshop and also that you are working on the waterfall top. I hope non of you misunderstood what I was asking. I am just playing with the idea. Shirley


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## Cashmeregma

I think lots of people would like to learn top down for a sweater. I took a course at a LYS to learn it and had to travel, so here people can do it from the comfort of there home.


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## Designer1234

Angora1 said:


> I think lots of people would like to learn top down for a sweater. I took a course at a LYS to learn it and had to travel, so here people can do it from the comfort of there home.


Thanks for the input - there are different ways we could do it or we could easily get a written pattern and work on one together. lots of workshops possible


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## darowil

Hi Shirley
I think that many people be interested in Top Down sweater, but I for one don't need it. I wouldn't anticipate any problems when I finally get aroung to doing an adult one.
Also though the embroidery looks lovely I wouldn't be doing it. Although I can sew I don't like it and the little bit of embroidery I have done has just been a hard task for me. So I will sttick to knitting. I don't do duplicate sttich for the same reason!
The Navajo sweater is lovely- I think the style you have knitted it in suits the straight design of the squares and am not sure that the top down shape would work so well. I think you need to keep straight lines. But this is simply my thinking and others could well disagree with me (or maybe top down could keep this straight line, been trying to envision it but not getting anything yet.


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## Designer1234

darowil said:


> Hi Shirley
> I think that many people be interested in Top Down sweater, but I for one don't need it. I wouldn't anticipate any problems when I finally get aroung to doing an adult one.
> Also though the embroidery looks lovely I wouldn't be doing it. Although I can sew I don't like it and the little bit of embroidery I have done has just been a hard task for me. So I will sttick to knitting. I don't do duplicate sttich for the same reason!
> The Navajo sweater is lovely- I think the style you have knitted it in suits the straight design of the squares and am not sure that the top down shape would work so well. I think you need to keep straight lines. But this is simply my thinking and others could well disagree with me (or maybe top down could keep this straight line, been trying to envision it but not getting anything yet.


Thanks Darowil. I appreciate your input- As I said I am perfectly willing to work up a class but I don't want to do it if there is no interest. I really don't think that the squares would look that good with the dolman sleeves that are what happens in a top down. I think it has to be done bottom up- I will think about it but the more I do, the less inclined I am at least for some time as we have a lot of workshops already set up. Once again, thanks for your input. I just was quite tired and was waffling -- I think I will put it on the back burner for awhile.


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## Revan

WOW!!! Your sweaters are a work of art, they are so beautiful.


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## Gweniepooh

Not quite there yet but wanted to ask this question (may have overlooked it in previous workshop; if so I apologize). I have tied off on yarn the section for the sleeves and added in two stitches under the armhole since I have a generous bust. (PLUS size, dk wt yarn)

QUESTION: When I'm ready to do the sleeves do I just pick up the stitches I tied off, join them and knit on until desired length?

yes but you also pick up stitches where you added under the arm. this gives you your extra width in both the lower part of the top as well as in the sleeve. Looking forward to seeing it.!


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## Designer1234

Your sleeves will be picked up and knitted in the round and will be stocking stitch. it gives it a nice change and you add whatever stripes you want to tie in with the top part. I usually put a narrower strip but use the same colors, you certainly don't have to do that. how is it coming?


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## Gweniepooh

I think nicely Shirley. I didn't knit much at all yesterday or so far today; needed to rest my wrist a bit and SIL was visiting from Wisconsin. Hope to get more done this evening.

I'll probably be one of those who try to start the coat of many colors next by reading the previous workshop. I'll try not to pester you. I have some yarn that I really think will lend itself beautifully to this.



Designer1234 said:


> Your sleeves will be picked up and knitted in the round and will be stocking stitch. it gives it a nice change and you add whatever stripes you want to tie in with the top part. I usually put a narrower strip but use the same colors, you certainly don't have to do that. how is it coming?


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## Designer1234

Please, you won't pester me at all, I am thinking I could open it and you could work there, or if you don't mind here, and I will certainly help you through the sweater. It isn't really hard - just do one step at a time. the bottom - then the yokes, then the shoulders and attach - then the sleeves. It sounds as if you have read the workshop. there are links to the first two workshops I taught in the main forum, but there was a lot of 'conversation' which didn't have anything to do with the sweaters so if you feel like checking them out, it might be worth while - that way you will have a really good idea how itis done. The main thing is the measurement and the swatch so you can figure out the number of inches you need. you will knit the bottom portion sideways and attach the yokes to the sides, so that the stripes in the bottom are knit across and turned on edge so they look vertical. you pick up the yoke stitches along the edges of the rows . it is mainly the measurements which are important. I will help you - i love teaching that sweater as it is really my own design and it is interesting - I have never tried to take credit for it but one of my students tried to make a pattern and couldn't because it is done by measurements which makes more sense as each of us are different sizes. so let me know when you get your waterfall finished and we will work on your sweater. 

I would love to help you so let me know when you start and I will go over the beginning with you Shirley


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## Gweniepooh

Thank you Shirley, that is awesome and most generous of you. I'm hoping to spend a large portion of today working on the waterfall top.


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## Designer1234

Gweniepooh said:


> Thank you Shirley, that is awesome and most generous of you. I'm hoping to spend a large portion of today working on the waterfall top.


Don't forget to post a picture when it is finished and it will go into our parades. All of you others who are knitting the top will do the same, I hope.


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## AverilC

Hi Shirley, just wanted to let you know that I have started on my second waterfall. Pictures attached. As I said I wanted to do I am putting cables on it. Earlier last year I bought some Shetland wool by Laine de Schaffhouse from an ebay seller. The recommended needle size is 3mm but I am knitting it on 5mm and am very pleased with the way it is looking. I have some other colours for the stripes but as yet I am still deciding how to place them. 

This is going to be a much lighter weight than the waterfall I did last year (doesn't that sound funny still, so close to the New Year still). I shant put a collar on it and as yet haven't decided on sleeve length, but that is what this workshop is all about.

Thought I would let you know that following your workshop has given me incredible confidence that I can do different things. Over christmas I made my daughter and granddaughter fingerless gloves without patterns - GD wanted half fingers on hers, so with a wing and a prayer I did them, not totally to my satisfaction but she was happy with them. Pic


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## Gweniepooh

Averil that is lovely! I was wondering if o9ne could add cables and here you've done just that! Did you have to increase the number cast on in order to do the cables?



AverilC said:


> Hi Shirley, just wanted to let you know that I have started on my second waterfall. Pictures attached. As I said I wanted to do I am putting cables on it. Earlier last year I bought some Shetland wool by Laine de Schaffhouse from an ebay seller. The recommended needle size is 3mm but I am knitting it on 5mm and am very pleased with the way it is looking. I have some other colours for the stripes but as yet I am still deciding how to place them.
> 
> This is going to be a much lighter weight than the waterfall I did last year (doesn't that sound funny still, so close to the New Year still). I shant put a collar on it and as yet haven't decided on sleeve length, but that is what this workshop is all about.
> 
> Thought I would let you know that following your workshop has given me incredible confidence that I can do different things. Over christmas I made my daughter and granddaughter fingerless gloves without patterns - GD wanted half fingers on hers, so with a wing and a prayer I did them, not totally to my satisfaction but she was happy with them. Pic


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## darowil

AverilC said:


> Hi Shirley, just wanted to let you know that I have started on my second waterfall. Pictures attached. As I said I wanted to do I am putting cables on it. Earlier last year I bought some Shetland wool by Laine de Schaffhouse from an ebay seller. The recommended needle size is 3mm but I am knitting it on 5mm and am very pleased with the way it is looking. I have some other colours for the stripes but as yet I am still deciding how to place them.
> 
> This is going to be a much lighter weight than the waterfall I did last year (doesn't that sound funny still, so close to the New Year still). I shant put a collar on it and as yet haven't decided on sleeve length, but that is what this workshop is all about.
> 
> Thought I would let you know that following your workshop has given me incredible confidence that I can do different things. Over christmas I made my daughter and granddaughter fingerless gloves without patterns - GD wanted half fingers on hers, so with a wing and a prayer I did them, not totally to my satisfaction but she was happy with them. Pic


what a great idea the cables- looks really good.


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## Designer1234

Designer here-- *YOU GOT IT - YEAY*!!! we can all design -- we just have to get by the fear. If I can teach one person per class to realize that this is really possible, I know my workshop is a success. I know there are others who did their own thing but you have done more than that by CHANGING the pattern to the extent of putting a pattern in which is difficult- also you did the gloves. now go for something else on your own. Join Gwennie when we do the Coat of Many colors -- that is really more of a challenge but very doable. good job!!!

Good job. as you say -- you can try everything you want. sometimes one thing will work out better than another but I really don't follow patterns unless I can't think of a way to change something. you have made my day! Shirley


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## AverilC

Gwennie yes I cast on 54 stitches, garter stitched 8 rows, increased on two knit rows then divided to 8, 10, 9, 9, 10 and 8 stitches to form the sections. I am so enjoying this challenge and this shetland wool is an absolute delight to work with.


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## AverilC

Designer1234 said:


> Designer here-- *YOU GOT IT - YEAY*!!! we can all design -- we just have to get by the fear. If I can teach one person per class to realize that this is really possible, I know my workshop is a success. I know there are others who did their own thing but you have done more than that by CHANGING the pattern to the extent of putting a pattern in which is difficult- also you did the gloves. now go for something else on your own. Join Gwennie when we do the Coat of Many colors -- that is really more of a challenge but very doable. good job!!!
> 
> Good job. as you say -- you can try everything you want. sometimes one thing will work out better than another but I really don't follow patterns unless I can't think of a way to change something. you have made my day! Shirley


I'm so pleased you are happy for me to have changed this pattern, you did say that you wanted us to have a go! And there was me thinking I could only follow a pattern!!  This is the second start I made, the first attempt had a cable going down the front edges only with the edge increase just inside the cable. Decided it didn't look right so frogged it. Am much happier with this now.

I may well join Gwennie although there is one project I am waiting anxiously for and that is the cabled cardigan that is being so kindly designed by Erica Patburg. have you seen it, http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-122378-1.html I have some wool yarn here that I think will be just right for it.

I have also excitedly started a large project which I believe will take me best part of the year. I found a pattern for a throw which had been designed by Kaffe Fassett. It is knitted in Rowan Felted Tweed yarn and is lots of patches stitched together. All fairisle and intarsia. You can find it on the following link - http://www.knitrowan.com/designs-and-patterns/patterns/jubilee-throw
as soon as I saw it a couple of months back I just knew that was going to be my major project this year. I have also decided that I am going to mostly knit for ME too.

Am off upstairs to bed now, will catch up tomorrow.


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## Revan

Revan said:


> Hi, I am in the process of knitting the "Winter Mirage" lace scarf in Dragonfly Lace's class and want to complete this until I start the Waterfall top. So, I will be bringing up the rear, but will continue to read the posts. I have an idea of yarn I want to use. Thank you again for having this class and others. Revan


I decided for now I am going to pass up this class, but will keep my notes when I am able to knit the waterfall top. I hope the notes remain after the class. Thank you, Revan


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## Designer1234

I understand completely Revan -- there is only so much time. I look forward to seeing you in this class sometime in the future. The lace class is wonderful and I think it should be your priority -- we will be working on this type of sweater again. Good luck with the lace, and don't hesitate to stay here and 'listen' . Shirley


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## Lurker 2

Dear Designer/Shirley, I think I have mis- read the instructions for the increase- Looking at the recent posting for the cabled top- it should be two increases, ie each side of the stitch marker. I am of two minds whether to 'frog' back to the beginning, it seems a pity to undo so much work. My fabric is very elastic- because I am using a very fine yarn and the largest needle I have available- a 7mm, interchangeable- to get the length of cable. I am wondering if the design is forgiving enough to alter the increases from now on. The other problem I realise now looking at the work, my stitch markers are a sort of split ring, and have obviously not remained in one place. The more I think about it I think it is a 'frogging we will go'! I am attaching a shot of what I have, and would really appreciate your input!


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## Designer1234

Lurker 2 said:


> Dear Designer/Shirley, I think I have mis- read the instructions for the increase- Looking at the recent posting for the cabled top- it should be two increases, ie each side of the stitch marker. I am of two minds whether to 'frog' back to the beginning, it seems a pity to undo so much work. My fabric is very elastic- because I am using a very fine yarn and the largest needle I have available- a 7mm, interchangeable- to get the length of cable. I am wondering if the design is forgiving enough to alter the increases from now on. The other problem I realise now looking at the work, my stitch markers are a sort of split ring, and have obviously not remained in one place. The more I think about it I think it is a 'frogging we will go'! I am attaching a shot of what I have, and would really appreciate your input!


I would suggest you put all the stitches on the longer cable or a length of contrasting yarn much longer than the bottom so that you won't lose any stitches - then put it over your shoulders the way it would be worn- and see what you think. You won't have as deep points as the original but some of the girls in the first group started doing the front points near the end, every 3 or 4 rows rather than every other row. it just added a bit of length. I think I would do that, and see how it looks. if you check the white one in the pictures you will see that she doesn't have much in the way of points. think twice before frogging the whole thing - it is so pretty. Or you could also use it as a light shawl for over your shoulders in chilly evenings outside, (I remember in the winter it did get chilly in New zealand. Think seriously about what you want to do before jumping in.

it is a lovely combination.


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## Lurker 2

lurker2 said:


> Thanks Shirley, i think the shawl might be the answer- I am fairly sure i have enough yarn of the main fabric to start over


!

Shirley here -- that is what my workshops are about. I have changed in mid stream lots of times with some success.

It is just too pretty - you can start another waterfall, even with different yarn but thatwould really make a lovely shawl. youcould even put a crochet or icord along the neck and have a tie at the neck so that it won't slip off. I bet you would get lots of use out of it and people would remark what a 'wonderful shawl, where did you get it - did you make it yourself?' And you can answer, yes, I designed it. nice feeling - ask me how I know.


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## Designer1234

Lurker 2 said:


> lurker2 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Shirley, i think the shawl might be the answer- I am fairly sure i have enough yarn of the main fabric to start over
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> Shirley here -- that is what my workshops are about. I have changed in mid stream lots of times with some success.
> 
> It is just too pretty - you can start another waterfall, even with different yarn but thatwould really make a lovely shawl. youcould even put a crochet or icord along the neck and have a tie at the neck so that it won't slip off. I bet you would get lots of use out of it and people would remark what a 'wonderful shawl, where did you get it - did you make it yourself?' And you can answer, yes, I designed it. nice feeling - ask me how I know.
Click to expand...

Here are three pictures of a wide scarf I didn't care for, so I added some size to each of the rectangles and made this poncho type stole and added a neck feature. I have had a lot of wear out of it. two rectangles which started out as a scarf, put in some cables and a stitch design ribbing and there you are.

(sheesh ! what terrible pictures!) hair standing straight on end!


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## Revan

Thank you, we are all so blessed to have you and thank you for taking your time to teach us new things and to encourage us to take that first step in a new direction. Time is very precious and you have given us the gift of yours. Revan


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## Gweniepooh

Lurker love the colors you chose. Shirley the poncho is delightful. Gotta go knit now. lol


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## Lurker 2

Gweniepooh said:


> Lurker love the colors you chose. Shirley the poncho is delightful. Gotta go knit now. lol


Thank you Gwen! The yarn was a gift- the coloured cotton- The slub textured one was at an incredible bargain for several months. I invested in quite a lot of it- but the recommended gauge is on 4mm needles and it was taking forever!


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## Gweniepooh

I feel silly/ridiculous. Finished the length of the top and started on the sleeves thinking this will be a snap. I have had soooo much trouble; can't really say why either. I keep dropping the needles, fumbling, stitches look so stretched out. Changed to a shorter cable. Have just had to put it down for awhile. Don't want to get totally frustrated. Will work on something else for a day or two. Will think on it for a solution; know I'll be able to figure this out.


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## Lurker 2

Gweniepooh said:


> I feel silly/ridiculous. Finished the length of the top and started on the sleeves thinking this will be a snap. I have had soooo much trouble; can't really say why either. I keep dropping the needles, fumbling, stitches look so stretched out. Changed to a shorter cable. Have just had to put it down for awhile. Don't want to get totally frustrated. Will work on something else for a day or two. Will think on it for a solution; know I'll be able to figure this out.


Sympathies, Gwen! Mine has become a shawl- and I am just crocheting around the edge to make it a little stronger- I used a very fine yarn!


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## Lurker 2

Finished Waterfall shawl - because I had mis-read the increase- mine has become a shawl


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## AverilC

Lurker, this is delightful, what gorgeous colours. I do hope you dont feel frustrated about the increases. It was a design element, we are all getting them. Wonderful job, I hope you enjoy wearing it.


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## Lurker 2

Thank you Averil, The shawl is surprisingly warm- I may try it on Sunday, rather than a jacket- but mostly our weather is too hot at present!


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## AverilC

I haveseen that your weather has been v.hot. Last I heard it was getting into the upper 30's. I find that temperature just a bit hot these days, am much happer when its no more than mid-20s. Here it has been about 8 or 9 this last week but we are forecast for it to be a lot lower and there is finally talk of snow in various parts of the country.


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## Lurker 2

AverilC said:


> I haveseen that your weather has been v.hot. Last I heard it was getting into the upper 30's. I find that temperature just a bit hot these days, am much happer when its no more than mid-20s. Here it has been about 8 or 9 this last week but we are forecast for it to be a lot lower and there is finally talk of snow in various parts of the country.


We have had it up to around 28C here- various parts of the country have been hotter- but it is no where near as bad as what Australia has been experiencing. My house holds the heat so I find it hard to sleep!

I hope your weather returns to normal soon- Britain seems to have had record everything except perhaps sun recently


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## Designer1234

Lurker 2 said:


> Finished Waterfall shawl - because I had mis-read the increase- mine has become a shawl


IT IS WONDERFUL!! Julie -- you have done a great job.

I think you will get lots of use out of it on chilly New Zealand days and evenings next winter. I love the colors. congratulations!! Show it on the TP. Shirley

NOTE: I WILL PUT IT ON THE PARADE OF Waterfall Tops today.

Waterfall tops: http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-117284-1.html


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## Lurker 2

Thank you, Designer- it is chilly enough this morning to try it out- one of the lovely features is it is so light- and drapes so well.
ps., I have already started a second top- adjusting the math, because the yarn is so fine. but I will be doubling my increases!


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## Designer1234

Averil is right- I have had Many projects change in mid stream-- and have ended up with something I liked better than what I was aiming for. 

I am so please you are enjoying the process-- this is such a door opener - it shows us that we can follow wonderful patterns but that we can also just 
go for it - and do our own thing. To me that is what this workshop is all about. 

It is in the parade -- wonderful, Julie


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## Gweniepooh

Okay so I'm frogging it all. Don't know what happened but have a mess. Know that I repeatedly kept catching yarn on cast so maybe that contributed to my mess. It is what it is and I consider it a learning process and am determined that this turn out nicely. Will post pic when I get back to where I was; don't give up on me Shirley I'll get it done. Frog.frog.frog LOL

Oh dear - are you sure? I will never give up on you. I wonder if you put a glove on your cast? sometimes they are catchy. 
I have a ring that catches on stuff sometimes and with some of my projects I have to take it off. I am sorry Gwennie -- I thought it looked beautiful from that one picture. Shirley


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## Lurker 2

Oh dear, Gwen- and you have been working so hard with that wretched cast- how much longer before it comes off?


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## Gweniepooh

Doesn't come off until the 28th. Oh well. I know I can do it. At least the frogging is easy. LOL


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## Gweniepooh

Shirley If I had a glove BIG enough I would try it but alas I don't. It is now frogged and I'm about to begin again. I'm thinking of trying the size 13 needle rather than the 15 when I get to that point again. I realize I will need to knit more but I am willing ti do that.Hey, can[t do much else so here we go. Wish me luck!


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## Designer1234

Gweniepooh said:


> Shirley If I had a glove BIG enough I would try it but alas I don't. It is now frogged and I'm about to begin again. I'm thinking of trying the size 13 needle rather than the 15 when I get to that point again. I realize I will need to knit more but I am willing ti do that.Hey, can[t do much else so here we go. Wish me luck!


Have you thought of starting with the neck needles, changing to the 13 and possibly changing to the 15 below the sleeves? just a thought. I think it is going to be a beauty - we will be keeping this open for quite some time so don't feel rushed. Good luck!

don't rush and enjoy it - don't let it be a chore. Shirley :thumbup: :thumbup: :lol:


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## Gweniepooh

Funny you should mention that. I had thought of that as a possibility. Also found some very fine "hairy like" yarn in my stash that I may see how it looks held in with the pink as I do the stripes. will see what happens. 


Designer1234 said:


> Gweniepooh said:
> 
> 
> 
> Shirley If I had a glove BIG enough I would try it but alas I don't. It is now frogged and I'm about to begin again. I'm thinking of trying the size 13 needle rather than the 15 when I get to that point again. I realize I will need to knit more but I am willing ti do that.Hey, can[t do much else so here we go. Wish me luck!
> 
> 
> 
> Have you thought of starting with the neck needles, changing to the 13 and possibly changing to the 15 below the sleeves? just a thought. I think it is going to be a beauty - we will be keeping this open for quite some time so don't feel rushed. Good luck!
> 
> don't rush and enjoy it - don't let it be a chore. Shirley :thumbup: :thumbup: :lol:
Click to expand...


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## montgal

Don't know what I missed but I have a slight opening under the sleeve that needs to be stitched up. The "yarn" in that area is ribbon. How much do I block it? It was a fun knit other than what I did with the sleeve. Used a lifeline for the first time, learned not to thread it through the markers! I will post a picture when I have it finished. Thanks so much. Jan

Answer: 

Jan, I have only blocked one of them - the others I haven't so it is upto you. I have some blocking mats ( like the kind children use on the floor) and I pinned it lightly, not pulling it too much. I didn't notice too much difference between it and the unblocked top. I hope to see some pictures soon. anyone else working on theirs?


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## montgal

Here is my project. It isn't too imaginative but I will get braver the second time I do it. Do you have any idea why the holes under the armpits? I amm using Explore 9 and it won't let me post pictures. I enabled compatibility as suggested.


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## Designer1234

montgal said:


> Here is my project. It isn't too imaginative but I will get braver the second time I do it. Do you have any idea why the holes under the armpits? I amm using Explore 9 and it won't let me post pictures. I enabled compatibility as suggested.


Knit across to the underarm -- when you get there, put your live stitches on a long length of yarn so that you can knot it -leaving enough room so that your arm fits through it. join the two under arm edges but add 6 stitches (3 on each side of your sleeve and join together -

I have, with other sweaters, used a couple of sized smaller needles for this - so that the stitches immediately under the arm are a bit smaller -

I also, if it appears to be too lacy, knit into the back of each stitch under the arm which can help reduce the large spaces. - knit across the back and do the same with the other sleeve. you now have the sleeve hole and bottom part of your sweater ready to knit. when you knit back, make sure you pick up the 6 stitches that you cast on - and you can use one or two size smaller needles for them only- then revert back to the larger needles.- another thing you can do with under arm holes is knit into the back of the next stitch for the under arm stitches only. Think of how you can twist your stitches for holes when you do the gusset of socks.

I haven't had any real problem with this, but each of us knits differently, and I think if you work with it when you put the 
sleeve stitches on your yarn you can reduce the size.

When you pick up the stitches and the 6 extra stitches, you can also knit into the back of the under arm stitches on the 2nd row of the sleeve - your sleeve will end up in Stocking stitch as you are knitting it in the round as mentioned on the instructions. This looks quite nice and I do all of mine that way.

You can also reduce the needles by one size - especially if you are using size 15 - these are just some ideas I have , I must just do something automatically to make sure there are no huge holes. I will write down what I do for my next top. Sorry there isn't a specific answer - but you can use the above ideas and I think it will help.

I haven't had a problem except when I used a yarn over for my increases throughout the top- I have not included that in my instructions as they are hard to work with when you use large needles. The white top used smaller needles and a bit heavier yarn than I do, and I doubt she had problems with the under arms.


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## montgal

Trying to post picture using Google Chrome. I did not add three stitches on either side of the sleeve, oops. If I knit in the back of the stitches that is instead of the front? Hope this works.


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## Designer1234

it looks great - I like your shawl pin. never thought of using one of them. I will put it in the parade of waterfall tops. good job! Designer

Waterfall tops: http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-117284-1.html


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## AverilC

Shirley, have been away for a few days and have really missed working on my top. Anyway here is an updated photo showing progress. I think that this top will definitely need blocking with it being pure wool, it is looking a little small but I think that will be cured with blocking. Am really pleased with the way it is looking.


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## Designer1234

It is going to be outstanding -- when you block it - lay it down and pin the back first - then dampen it with a spray, then put the top section on top, and pin it and spray, let it sit over night - unless you have a big enough blocking area to spread it out. 

I really like your colors. Are you carrying the cables all the way down? if you think it is going to be too small across the hips you can ad a purl between the sweater and the cable on each side of each cable so it would be stocking stitch, purl, cable , purl, stocking stitch. I also suggest that you put in markers as it makes it so much quicker. just something I learned recently when I was doing some cables. that would give you more of a stretch. 

I love it!


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## Lurker 2

AverilC said:


> Shirley, have been away for a few days and have really missed working on my top. Anyway here is an updated photo showing progress. I think that this top will definitely need blocking with it being pure wool, it is looking a little small but I think that will be cured with blocking. Am really pleased with the way it is looking.


I really like your choice of colours Averil, and agree with Designer the extra purl stitches would free up your cables- and could give a gradual increase!


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## AverilC

Yes, i am planning to cable all the way. i had thought about gently putting in further cables to slant down from increases but changed my mind. It is something I might bear in mind for a future top. I already have two purl stitches between the stocking stitch and cables which I find has been enough of a marker; that's not to say of course that on following rows I have not had to change a purl stitch to a plain. I of course continue to use the marker for the increase placements.

I do have a large area for blocking. I have 8 x 2ft playing mats so will see how many I will need. That is going to be a challenge in itself.


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## Designer1234

i can hardly wait to see it finished -- it is going to be a "one of a kind" (as they all are) which makes me a happy camper to say the least. 

keep on posting pictures. it is wonderful


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## montgal

Julie, your shawl is beautiful. Wish I could be that creative with colors!


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## Lurker 2

montgal said:


> Julie, your shawl is beautiful. Wish I could be that creative with colors!


It [the yarn] is a heather mix, premier yarns, Serenity Garden yarn colour way, mountain heather- a self striper rather than variegated- so the colours are really virtue of the yarn itself, and my friend who gifted it to me- I have not seen such a lovely cotton here- I usually have to bring American yarns in from Australia. Often there is no option to ship to New Zealand on the various websites! 
BTW the shawl is already proving a beautiful weight for the slight chill in the air today. I do have to take care not to snag it however- but if you work at it the stitches seem to settle back in!


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## Designer1234

I am about half way through my top down sweater using the yarn I received from Ranji in New Delhi- although she is visiting her daughter in BC right now. 

I love working with this yarn - I have added a grape and gorgeous green as a contrast for the stripe. There are no points - it is a regular top down sweater and I will put 2 buttons and am not sure how I will finish the borders. 

I hope you like it. I am so thrilled with this beautiful yarn from a market in NEW Delhi. I added a narrow cable on each front .


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## Gweniepooh

Averil and Montgal both of your tops are great looking. Since I started over I'm not there yet but will keep working. Cast has been irritating my wrist so I haven't done as much the past couple of days but will get it done. Am almost ready to start my stripes.


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## montgal

Thank you. I think you are courageous to try. Didn't you say next week it comes off?


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## 81brighteyes

This is brighteyes81 and hope this is the way to let you know I am on the computer and on your workshop page. I don't know anyother way to let you know. However, I don't have anyone to take a picture of the jacket and since it is a purchased pattern, there isn't a link to it. I'm a bit lost on the computer re workshop pages, so maybe I will just have to pm you to know what to do next. Incidentally, I am thinking that this might be too involved to try do do re the computer. I know where I need to put the short rows (& know how to do them), but don't know how to figure over how many rows I would need to knit them. I need to make it wider of the tummy area so that it isn't open as much when it is worn.
-----------------------

DESIGER
HERE, 
Welcome Brighteyesl - yes you are in the right page. 


Is this a top down sweater? if it is -
Have you put the sleeves on stitch holders? under the arm is a great place to increase the size of the bottom -- I have to do that all the time - in other words -- increase under each arm so that you would have the final number you want. OR 
I would put a marker under the center stitch under arm and every SO OFTEN (Depending on the increase needed either on both sides of the marker or just one side). This would give you a slow increase down the sides which would carry out to the whole bottom of the sweater, in a place that would not be too noticeable. I use the knit-purl increase -- don't forget to put in a marker and do it about every 2 or 3 inches inches until you get the size you want. That is about the best way, if you have already started the bottom. 

The best way is still adding the width immediately under the arms. by increasing each side of the underarm join , on both underarms.

Hope this helps - otherwise i would take it to a knitting store if there is one in your area, or post on main in KP and someone might have a better way. I always do these things on my own so there might be a specific way on line (u tube) etc.
Shirley

If it is a bottom up sweater - you will have to adjust the side seams all the way up to the under arm - increasing every 2-3 inches. 

Or, as I suggested, take it to a knitting shop and see if someone can help you here on main in KP> It is hard to help when I can't see the pattern.


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## 81brighteyes

My other thought was that I could scan in the photo, but would not know how to send it to you when doing a pm. I gather that is not possible.


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## 81brighteyes

Thank you so much. It is a bottom-up knit. I had thought about increasing at the side seam (both fronts), but since I needed 9 sts. EACH side, that seemed like a lot. I do not think there is anyone in the LYS where I purchased the yarn who might know how to do this (using the short rows method within the front of the sweater rather than side seams). Using short rows is supposed to be the better method, but requires a mathematician!!! You were very kind to reply with the information you have. Thanks again.

-
9 stitches each side would mean 4.5 on both front and backs on each side. YOu could change that to l0 stitches - with 5 on each side, or leave it at nine stitches and do 5 on the front sides and 4 on each back side (or reverse that)


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## AMZ

For us new knitters would the first row of increases read?Size small first row: k1,yo,k4,2yo,k7,2yo,k6,2yo,k6,2yo,k7,2yo,k4,yo,k1
Thanks Ann


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## Designer1234

looks good but I would put a marker between each of the 2 yarn overs -- it is really hard to do this top without the markers. Your numbers would change every other row -- ask me how I know! I would do them exactly as shown in the diagram on page one. Don't forget to do a few rows of the neck with the smaller size needles, then increase for a few inches and then use the largest size you plan on using. If you are a small-I would not go over size 13 needles. hope this helps.


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## AMZ

Thank you, I have my markers in place. I've done the neck. I've read all 8 pgs. Looked at all the pictures. Just know I'll be soaring after that first row.


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## Designer1234

Just decide that you are going to enjoy the process. it is so simple that sometimes people try to make it difficult. It is fun and we haven't had a bad turnout yet. so I ope you really enjoy yourself. If you do run into a problem, just post and I will come by and help you.


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## AMZ

Ok my needles were flying last night. After 18 rows I drop a yo. Can not firgure out how to fix it. So I started over. This time I'm increasing using kfb. I miss the yo lace effect. Is there away to do this without two yo in a row?
Such as yo k1 yo? I new at this? Not sure if I'd add a sts in the nonpattern or how to place the marks to do my repeats. With 2 yo in a row I keep moving the marker. Or should I say they keep hanging up on the needles. Not good with words.


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## Designer1234

That is the difficulty with the yarn over. I do a yarn over - marker and then another yarnover but it can really get confusing . I decided to try a swatch, but haven't had a chance yet. 

why don't you do a swatch with a "yarnover ,knit one-marker, knit one ,yarnover "and see if that would work better. It might work quite well. let me know. I would do it but I am tied up this afternoon and won't have a chance for a couple of days. Maybe you could post a picture ? if you do it.


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## AMZ

I think I'll finish this one with kfb. then play with the next one. I noticed that some of the other had done the yo, k, yo in the pictures. Thank you for your time. My second attempt at anything close to a sweater. First one was rip out. Never to be visited again. I'm short so I like the idea of top down. I can knit sock two at a time. Both top down & toe up, one or two at a time. So I should be able to do this. Think these would make great prayer wraps.


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## AverilC

Designer1234 said:


> That is the difficulty with the yarn over. I do a yarn over - marker and then another yarnover but it can really get confusing . I decided to try a swatch, but haven't had a chance yet.
> 
> why don't you do a swatch with a "yarnover ,knit one-marker, knit one ,yarnover "and see if that would work better. It might work quite well. let me know. I would do it but I am tied up this afternoon and won't have a chance for a couple of days. Maybe you could post a picture ? if you do it.


Shirley, this is what I have been doing, both on the first top and the current one. although instead of a yarn over, because I prefer to not have a hole, I lift the yarn between stitches, place on left hand needle and knit into the back of it. This makes a very easy, almost automatic, increase and leaves a nice effect down the increase line. I think the following photograph shows this.

DESIGNER HERE:
That is a very nice finish -- I think both look great. I rather like the yarn over effect too. that is what this class is about - deciding for ourselves, trying things and if they aren't what we want trying something else. (the story of my life)


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## Gweniepooh

Cast comes off the 28th of Jan. Courage has nothing to do with it...more stubborn, bullheaded, etc. LOL Thanks for what I take as a complement though!



montgal said:


> Thank you. I think you are courageous to try. Didn't you say next week it comes off?


 

You are also very nice! Your hand may get tired, so don't push it too hard. the needles and yarn will wait. We are here when you need us. Even when the workshop closes you know how to find me! :thumbup: :lol:


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## leena

please can you tell me where to find the intructions for the cable yoke many thanks leena


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## AverilC

leena said:


> please can you tell me where to find the intructions for the cable yoke many thanks leena


Hi Leena, there are no instructions. That is what this workshop is all about, doing your own thing. I love working cables and decided to put cables in myself. You need extra stitches to allow for the take up of the cable.

All I did was to do the first few rows as Designer suggests then increased a couple of rows so that I had enough stitches to make the cable between increases. In this case I made a 6 stitch cable with 2 purl stitches either side. I had already allowed some extra stitches because I am using smaller needles than suggested, 5.5mm (9 US).

If you look further back to page 7 you can see how the cables are progressing. I shall be cabling all the way. I do hope that this helps you.


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## Lurker 2

AverilC said:


> leena said:
> 
> 
> 
> please can you tell me where to find the intructions for the cable yoke many thanks leena
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Leena, there are no instructions. That is what this workshop is all about, doing your own thing. I love working cables and decided to put cables in myself. You need extra stitches to allow for the take up of the cable.
> 
> All I did was to do the first few rows as Designer suggests then increased a couple of rows so that I had enough stitches to make the cable between increases. In this case I made a 6 stitch cable with 2 purl stitches either side. I had already allowed some extra stitches because I am using smaller needles than suggested, 5.5mm (9 US).
> 
> If you look further back to page 7 you can see how the cables are progressing. I shall be cabling all the way. I do hope that this helps you.
Click to expand...

I have decided- because I also am using a finer needle 6.5mm 10.5 American, and 4ply yarn, to do the increase every fourth row. I don't think I have posted my progress on the second top here- so Designer if I duplicate myself I am happy to be deleted!


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## Designer1234

Lurker 2 said:


> AverilC said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> leena said:
> 
> 
> 
> please can you tell me where to find the intructions for the cable yoke many thanks leena
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Leena, there are no instructions. That is what this workshop is all about, doing your own thing. I love working cables and decided to put cables in myself. You need extra stitches to allow for the take up of the cable.
> 
> All I did was to do the first few rows as Designer suggests then increased a couple of rows so that I had enough stitches to make the cable between increases. In this case I made a 6 stitch cable with 2 purl stitches either side. I had already allowed some extra stitches because I am using smaller needles than suggested, 5.5mm (9 US).
> 
> If you look further back to page 7 you can see how the cables are progressing. I shall be cabling all the way. I do hope that this helps you.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have decided- because I also am using a finer needle 6.5mm 10.5 American, and 4ply yarn, to do the increase every fourth row. I don't think I have posted my progress on the second top here- so Designer if I duplicate myself I am happy to be deleted!
Click to expand...

It is going to be lovely Julie -- can't wait to see it! I love your colors. are you going to carry one more white? or is the bottom going to be turquoise. 
Another thing you can do is increase your needles as you get nearer the bottom which will make it a bit more lacy -- however that is not a suggestion - it is just another way of doing this top. It is endless. Good job


----------



## Designer1234

81brighteyes said:


> Thank you so much. It is a bottom-up knit. I had thought about increasing at the side seam (both fronts), but since I needed 9 sts. EACH side, that seemed like a lot. I do not think there is anyone in the LYS where I purchased the yarn who might know how to do this (using the short rows method within the front of the sweater rather than side seams). Using short rows is supposed to be the better method, but requires a mathematician!!! You were very kind to reply with the information you have. Thanks again.
> 
> -
> 9 stitches each side would mean 4.5 on both front and backs on each side. YOu could change that to l0 stitches - with 5 on each side, or leave it at nine stitches and do 5 on the front sides and 4 on each back side (or reverse that)


I just drew a quick sketch of how you could do your increases

Remember 9 stitches on each side would only be 4.5 stitches on each of the backs and each of the fronts --

I would add l0 to round it off. see the attached drawing (very rough) - If it is 9 ROWS it would be a different thing - but remember you will add half the stitches on each side of the seam.


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## Lurker 2

Designer1234 said:


> Lurker 2 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AverilC said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> leena said:
> 
> 
> 
> please can you tell me where to find the intructions for the cable yoke many thanks leena
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Leena, there are no instructions. That is what this workshop is all about, doing your own thing. I love working cables and decided to put cables in myself. You need extra stitches to allow for the take up of the cable.
> 
> All I did was to do the first few rows as Designer suggests then increased a couple of rows so that I had enough stitches to make the cable between increases. In this case I made a 6 stitch cable with 2 purl stitches either side. I had already allowed some extra stitches because I am using smaller needles than suggested, 5.5mm (9 US).
> 
> If you look further back to page 7 you can see how the cables are progressing. I shall be cabling all the way. I do hope that this helps you.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have decided- because I also am using a finer needle 6.5mm 10.5 American, and 4ply yarn, to do the increase every fourth row. I don't think I have posted my progress on the second top here- so Designer if I duplicate myself I am happy to be deleted!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It is going to be lovely Julie -- can't wait to see it! I love your colors. are you going to carry one more white? or is the bottom going to be turquoise.
> Another thing you can do is increase your needles as you get nearer the bottom which will make it a bit more lacy -- however that is not a suggestion - it is just another way of doing this top. It is endless. Good job
Click to expand...

I am looking for a red for contrast before I go further, I can get some of the green and blue in a solid dye colour, and am contemplating the bands at the edge of hem and sleeve- that is the plan! Thanks for the compliment. I am so pleased with how the slub yarn is knitting up on the larger needles. 4mm really did not display it to advantage!


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## leena

thanks for the information about the cables regards leena


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## jangmb

I will be doing this waterfall, if not before you close, then after. I am too new to have tried much deviations from patterns - so this will be another leap. I like the feature of KP that if you post, you get notice of new posts - great for the workshops.


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## Lurker 2

jangmb said:


> I will be doing this waterfall, if not before you close, then after. I am too new to have tried much deviations from patterns - so this will be another leap. I like the feature of KP that if you post, you get notice of new posts - great for the workshops.


don't forget also, if you click on 'watch' at the top left of the page and 'enable emails' when it pops up, you will also receive notices!


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## AMZ

OK I've knit down to the sleeve and put those sts on other needles. Do I only increase in the second sts, two in the middle of the back and second to last sts on the body? I have been able to down load a picture on here. If you PM me I could send a picture to you. Again thanks for your time.

*DESIGNER HERE*:
yes, you carry on the increases on the fronts and the back -- make sure that you don't knit too loosely under the arms as some of the girls have had trouble with holes there. I always knit a twist stitch (knit into the back of the stitch) under the arm of all my sweaters and that helps keep any holes from appearing especially if you are using large needles like on this project.

I am glad you like what is happening! I will pm you with my email address and you can send me a picture in an email and I can post it here and in the Parade.

*WORK IN PROGRESS* - I just received these pictures from AMZ and here they are. I love the color of your top - send me more pictures if you have trouble downloading them -- once it is finished Iwill post them in the parade. Good job! it will be lovely when it is finished- light and airy. Ann just sent me the 
top she is working on - It is going to look beautiful. I like the blue.


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## murf

Really like this. cant 
wait to finish. may tak me awhile as I have a few projects going.


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## chezalvera

I've got my needles & yarn. I'm in.


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## Designer1234

How are you all doing? Life has been hectic for me so I apologize for not dropping in yesterday. 

I hope things are going okay -- How is it going Julie? did you find the color you were looking for? Gwennie how is your hand - how is your sweater coming? 

It looks like we have a few new people. I would suggest you read from the beginning - page one and if you are interested go to the closed #1 waterfall as well. 

don't hesitate to ask any questions. Shirley (designer1234


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## Lurker 2

Designer1234 said:


> How are you all doing? Life has been hectic for me so I apologize for not dropping in yesterday.
> 
> I hope things are going okay -- How is it going Julie? did you find the color you were looking for? Gwennie how is your hand - how is your sweater coming?
> 
> It looks like we have a few new people. I would suggest you read from the beginning - page one and if you are interested go to the closed #1 waterfall as well.
> 
> don't hesitate to ask any questions. Shirley (designer1234


Not what I was hoping for - which would have been a magenta- but quite a good purple that I am offsetting with gold. I am thinking I may make a second shawl, rather than doing the arms[sleeves] I really like how it drapes in front!


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## AMZ

I would interested to know how others did their increases. I know that I could not do the 2 in a row yarn overs. I did the kfb.
Help me out as I'm thinking about making another one. I only have about 4 rows on the body left and finish the sleeve. How about some ideas for that finish the sleeve K1, P1??
I'm not going to have enough yarn to crochet around the out side. I started with a skein 6 oz Red Heart Soft Baby 3 ply sport weight. Color Bunny Print (soft blue, pink, yellow, white. Contrast found a very small amount of 3 ply white. OH for a bigger stash but that another subject.
Next one I'm going to do the Russian join with all my yarn so don't have to weave in any ends. 
Thanks for any and all the help.
Ann


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## Designer1234

I have done yarn overs which are tricky with large needles, but I quite like the kfb - it is neat. I have thought of doing a 2 x 2 cable on each side of the kfb down the back and in about 5 stitches on each side. am planning on doing this on my next waterfall. Designer 

Good luck Ann


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## Naneast

My computer was down for 4 days so I just started the Waterfall Top #4 and finished. I used circular needles #10.5 to start then changed to #13 through the piece. The yarn is from the Knit Picks Stroll, fingering weight 2 solid colors: 
Light green (Forest Heather) and Dark green (Aurora Heather) then used the left over yarn for the stripe. The sleeves end with a broken rib pattern using the variegated yarn (also used on the stripe). Bind off by K2tog x 2 then SSK followed by a double crochet that made it narrow at the end. The sleeves are 3/4 length. Total yarn used was 582 yards. Thank you, Shirley, for the lovely workshop.


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## Designer1234

love this one too-- you have three now? wonderful job as usual. they really are so comfortable aren't they? I will put them in the Parade with the others. good job Naneast. Are any of the rest of you working on your tops? Julie, Gwen?? 

let me know . Shirley


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## JudieG

Hi Shirley,Somehow missed the start of this class but hope to start the waterfall top. I am a 4x--small ears neck and shoulders but big everywhere else. Where do you suggest I put the extra cast-on stitches? Should I cast them on in the beginning? and how many? I tend to over compensate and make things too big but won't wear anything tight. Thanks, Judie


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## Designer1234

I have a very small neck - so I start with size l0 needles and cast on the number shown on page one - knit 5 or 6 rows for the neck - garter stitch. then put the markers on as shown in the diagram and do 2 more rows including the increases on each side of the marker and increasing on stitch in on both sides, ending with one stitch. then change to #ll needles and increase on each side of the markers and at the fronts every other row. Once you have done a few rows I would use another size larger needles and carry on increasing every other row .

Some of the ladies use size 15 needles but I rarely go over size 13. you also put a wide strip before you get to the sleeve so that the strip has points which is very slimming. 

hope this helps.


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## AverilC

I digressed from my waterfall in order to follow Darowil's sock workshop, what fun that was and what a lovely selection of socks have been finished so far. Will definitely be doing some more.

So now back to my waterfall. Am about 4inches below the stripes and started on the sleeves (just for a change) as I wanted to make sure I didn't use up all the stone colour before I got to the sleeves.

Am planning a fairly lazy afternoon so hopefully will get quite a bit done.


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## Designer1234

AverilC said:


> I digressed from my waterfall in order to follow Darowil's sock workshop, what fun that was and what a lovely selection of socks have been finished so far. Will definitely be doing some more.
> 
> So now back to my waterfall. Am about 4inches below the stripes and started on the sleeves (just for a change) as I wanted to make sure I didn't use up all the stone colour before I got to the sleeves.
> 
> Am planning a fairly lazy afternoon so hopefully will get quite a bit done.


It is so nice to be making new friends on these workshops. Your socks were wonderful. I am glad to see you back here. I just finished my 2nd sock in my 2nd pair. lots of fun. It was nice to get a chance to do a workshop myself. It is really heartwarming to see and make friends with those who are coming back to more than one workshop. We have 3 fantastic classes coming up this month --

Well, I had better stop knitting on that sock for awhile and get back to my top too. Shirley


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## chezalvera

My plan is to use a great yarn by Filatura Di Crosa (wave)
in a great beige color. Heavenly yarn by the way. I will
offset this with brown & burgundy stripes. We'll see.


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## Lurker 2

Designer1234 said:


> love this one too-- you have three now? wonderful job as usual. they really are so comfortable aren't they? I will put them in the Parade with the others. good job Naneast. Are any of the rest of you working on your tops? Julie, Gwen??
> 
> let me know . Shirley


My second top is to one side at present as I get ready for my own workshop- I am experimenting with the pattern in different weights of yarn, quite pleased with what I am producing!


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## Gweniepooh

Here it is finally finished. Will make again and it WILL be better.


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## Designer1234

WOW! IT LOOKS GREAT GWEN. I think it is great. I hope you like it - bet it looks great on you -- will you put it in the parade, or do you want me to. here is the link. put it on the TP as well, Gwen. Good job

Waterfall tops: http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-117284-1.html

I will put it in the parade right now. good job


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## AverilC

great looking top Gwen, nice colour way.


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## melyn

Hi everyone, I have at last started my waterfall and was also wondering about the increases, I was picking up the bar between but have ended up with 2 large holes that I am not sure I like, as I havent got very far I am thinking of frogging it all and starting again lyn


Designer1234 said:


> I have done yarn overs which are tricky with large needles, but I quite like the kfb - it is neat. I have thought of doing a 2 x 2 cable on each side of the kfb down the back and in about 5 stitches on each side. am planning on doing this on my next waterfall. Designer
> 
> Good luck Ann


Some like having the hole , others also do a y/o increase. If you want to have less of a hole you can put a marker in, and 
do a k/p (front and back of the stitch) on each side of the marker -- I do that one the most. It doesn't draw a lot of attention to the increase lines.

Just a tip- MAKE SURE YOU do the rows at the beginning where the neck is - on smaller needles. I didn't at first and it is much tidier if you do - I then slowly increased my needle size until I was at a size 13 or for larger sizes#15 needles . it makes it fit very well.


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## AMZ

I Knit one in the front and back of each stitich before and after each marker. It worked well.
AMZ



melyn said:


> Hi everyone, I have at last started my waterfall and was also wondering about the increases, I was picking up the bar between but have ended up with 2 large holes that I am not sure I like, as I havent got very far I am thinking of frogging it all and starting again lyn
> 
> 
> Designer1234 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have done yarn overs which are tricky with large needles, but I quite like the kfb - it is neat. I have thought of doing a 2 x 2 cable on each side of the kfb down the back and in about 5 stitches on each side. am planning on doing this on my next waterfall. Designer
> 
> Good luck Ann
Click to expand...


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## AverilC

Hi Melyn, When you pick up the bar between stitches place it on left hand needle and knit into the back of it. That will close the hole.


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## Designer1234

As there are people working on their tops, I will leave this workshop open for another couple of weeks. if you have any questions, if I am off line, please help each other. Otherwise I will be on once I am back with my new Imac. 

I know this is not the way we usually run the workshops but this one is a bit different - as each of us is doing our own thing. and what wonderful tops we are making! I am so proud of the beautiful results of a pattern that just grew by chance! talk to you all later. Shirley


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## Designer1234

AMZ (Anne) I hope you will put a picture of your top here so the girls can see it! I think it is so pretty. Thanks for sending it privately, and letting me know you are finished. I am going to try to put it in the parade, and would appreciate you putting the picture of you wearing it and the other two if you wish, here. It looks so nice on you. Shirley


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## AMZ

OK I'm going to try. yet again. Ann
Yea! I got it posted. I'll sure it will look better over a sleeveless sun dress. looking forward to summer.
This is the first top I've knit.



Designer1234 said:


> AMZ (Anne) I hope you will put a picture of your top here so the girls can see it! I think it is so pretty. Thanks for sending it privately, and letting me know you are finished. I am going to try to put it in the parade, and would appreciate you putting the picture of you wearing it and the other two if you wish, here. It looks so nice on you. Shirley


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## Designer1234

Here is the neck portion of my new design - a CROCHET waterfall. I think it might be quite pretty. It is the 2nd start as I had some orange in the first try- Like this one better. I am going to do another dark strip and then the rest in cream -- unless I change my mind. the crochet works up much faster than knitting.

I will follow up with more pictures as the top progresses. how are all of you doing?


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## Designer1234

Hi everyone - as there has been very little activity here. I am going to close this workshop -- I hope you will finish up your waterfall if you are still working on one. If you finish yours, please post it in the Parade of Waterfall tops -- just search it on pictures. 

It is always nice to show people how to make these tops. 

you are welcome to read all the information in the workshop - make copies if you wish. designer1234


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## Designer1234

Hi everyone -- I just finished designing and crocheting a waterfall. 

The crochet was easy and I just used basic doubles (dc's) triples (trc's) and singles (sc) I quite like it -- I used the same general idea as the knitted waterfall. I hope you all like it. Designer


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## prismaticr

Topic is now closed. For additional information not found on these pages. please try and private message (pm) the listed teacher.

Thank you and happy knitting/crocheting!


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