# Passap E6000 Console + problems



## 28pearson (Dec 17, 2017)

I have just joined this forum in an attempt to help E6000 users who have a problem.

I am not a knitter, but my wife is. For more than a decade I have been repairing, upgrading and where possible helping people around the world with the E6000.
We have repaired and upgraded (including conversion from 8K to 32K) more that 100 consoles plus numerous curly leads and front locks since 2002.

I am not a dealer and am not employed by one, However I was an Electronic Design Engineer in the UK communications industry for well over 20 years.

If anyone has a problem or questions relating to the console (or other) then please feel free to contact me and we will try to help.

Regards

Richard Croucher - husband to Anne Croucher in Dorset UK


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## knittertat (Aug 1, 2017)

That's very kind of you. Makes me wish I had one. It's always good to have someone in your corner. Thank you.


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## keetza (Feb 6, 2016)

Welcome from Hopewell, New Jersey, USA! Best regards to Anne who has helped me generously over the years!


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## Fialka (Mar 4, 2011)

Welcome from Tennessee and thank you for the nice offer !.. My computer is 'slow' and drives me 'crazy' from time to time !.. So I am here only to look through several topics and help some knitters, when they have questions !.. Very Merry Christmas to both of you ! Fialka.


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## barbara97au (Jun 5, 2017)

Thank you so much Richard. No problems at present, but good to know there is someone to ask. Best wishes from Australia.


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## STEENIEK (Mar 20, 2013)

Thank you For joining Richard. It's always good to know that we have someone to call on for help on with these machines. I'm picking one up this week that hasnt been used for 2 years because of ill health.


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## Peanut Tinker (Oct 10, 2012)

How good to know you are here! 
Thanks


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## Tumblestone (Dec 18, 2017)

Hello Richard,

I have been looking for some advice on my Pfaff E6000. I bought it second hand a few years ago, and couldn't get the hang of it, so I put it into storage. I have recently decided to have another go at it. I have watched videos on You-Tube, but when I get to a certain point with the cast on, the console does not give the answer that I expect. The instruction on the console says 'R Empty' and so I then take the locks across without any yarn. According to the video on You Tube, the console then should change to tell me to move the racking handle down etc., However when I take the empty locks across, nothing happens, the console instruction stays the same, it doesn't change. So I then take the locks back to the right and I get the error message 206, (you have not moved the lock over the programmed knitting width), which I have. 

What do you think I am doing wrong, I have checked and checked it a dozen times. Could it be a fault on the console, or could it be a setting on the machine itself?

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Thank you,

Susan.


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## jaysclark (Jan 26, 2013)

Tumblestone said:


> Hello Richard,
> 
> I have been looking for some advice on my Pfaff E6000. I bought it second hand a few years ago, and couldn't get the hang of it, so I put it into storage. I have recently decided to have another go at it. I have watched videos on You-Tube, but when I get to a certain point with the cast on, the console does not give the answer that I expect. The instruction on the console says 'R Empty' and so I then take the locks across without any yarn. According to the video on You Tube, the console then should change to tell me to move the racking handle down etc., However when I take the empty locks across, nothing happens, the console instruction stays the same, it doesn't change. So I then take the locks back to the right and I get the error message 206, (you have not moved the lock over the programmed knitting width), which I have.
> 
> ...


Have you set the knitting width correctly or left it on 90 90?


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## Tumblestone (Dec 18, 2017)

jaysclark said:


> Have you set the knitting width correctly or left it on 90 90?


Thanks for replying, I followed the video on YouTube with 25 needles on the left and 25 on the right and input the numbers into the console, left 25- enter and then right 25 enter. I also went back to the instruction book and tried to follow that but I can't seem to get passed the problem.


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## Maryknits513 (Feb 12, 2011)

Welcome Richard!!

I installed your chips in my console many years ago. Still working fine!


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## Peanut Tinker (Oct 10, 2012)

Tumblestone said:


> Thanks for replying, I followed the video on YouTube with 25 needles on the left and 25 on the right and input the numbers into the console, left 25- enter and then right 25 enter. I also went back to the instruction book and tried to follow that but I can't seem to get passed the problem.


I had a similar problem when I first used my Passap E6000. I had not been putting the carriage at the start point. Check your manual and it shows that you have to line up the pointer exactly before you start your row. Hopefully that is all it is. It was my error and worked after that.


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## 28pearson (Dec 17, 2017)

Hello Susan,

As said I am not a knitter - most things I do without yarn or strippers - ie 'air knit' so I can see whether the pushers etc are doing what expected.

When casting on - always start @ the proper START Position - and there is only one - lock pointer at far right hand edge of bed - I believe when you 1st move from right to left you should keep going until the console 'beeps' and/or the display indicates things are done- as far as necessary - perhaps further than pushers selected for action - if width is still @ -90/+90 all the way to the left.

If you do not get a 'beep' and/or sensible display change then the console will think you have not done a wide enough sweep - which sounds like your problem here.

Forget online videos for now and see if things work! Try CAST ON 97 - see attached if I have done it right. This is used to check the combination of Front Lock, Console + pushers and physically align the front lock - do not bother with the alignment or adjusting the lock here though, just go straight to 62, set the lock and program the console - NO YARN or STRIPPERS. then go from there.
What we do is just place pushers +/- 30 into active position rather than all of them - simply as less physical action and easier to look @ when simply checking things.

On the first right to left sweep you will need to go right to left hand end until console beeps and/or shows it had done so (no 10 of 62) carry on as indicated after no 13 of 62 you can correct the needle width on the console to be -30, +30 (it will be set to -90 + 90 @ that point) and so only need to move the lock sufficiently either way each side of the centre, rather than extremes.
Hope this helps!
As already said ignore anything here about adjusting screws etc. - remember you are interested if things work.
I use CAST ON 97 quite often just to see if things look OK.

Hope that helps


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## 28pearson (Dec 17, 2017)

Hello Susan - and just in case anyone else?

As suggested earlier - a common beginner problem is incorrect Start Position. It is in the manual - but see attached.

If you think about this in 'logical' steps it makes a lot of sense. The lock feeds info about movement by optically sensing the square holes in the front bed 'middle' cross bar. The console effectively 'counts' the holes so it must always have the same starting point to 'know' where things are.


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## Tumblestone (Dec 18, 2017)

Thanks for your help everyone. I'll try and persevere, I will not be conquered!! Again!
Thanks also to 28pearson for the files and I will follow your advice.
I'll come back to you to let you know how I get on.

Many thanks,
Susan


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## colleenr (Dec 22, 2017)

Hi Richard!

I have a Passap E6000 that has been in storage for a long time (probably 15 years!). I have programmed the console to do a cast on of 3 and then entered a pattern via the reader. That all works fine. When instructed to cast on it tells me to do an empty row. I get an error code of 200 when I do that row. In my manual it says that the photo cell cannot work properly because dust has accumulated on the guide rail. I have cleaned it (lots of times!) and also taken the front lock off the needle bed and cleaned the channel on the underside and the area around the photo cell. I still get the same error. Do you know of anything else I can try to clean those areas?

Thank you for your help.
Colleen


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## 28pearson (Dec 17, 2017)

Hello Colleen,

Yes error 200 indicates that there is something wrong with the optical sensor - BUT it can be a lot different to dust - sensors(s) and/or associated circuit in the front lock and even the console itself may have something wrong with it. YES dust might cause it but as you have found - maybe not! Cleanliness of the optics is important, BUT people often may damage by trying to CLEAN what is not really there.

Forget about the pattern programming you mention. Can you get Start Position to be accepted - ie lock in correct position and console accepting this - have a look at CAST on 97 download I put up previously. Just the 'air knitting' bit - no alignments or adjustments and important thing here is console Start Position and recognition of lock movement - rather than lock controlling pusher movement,

If you are seeing ERR 200 in that procedure - you can connect the console directly to the front lock by not using the curly lead - ie plug the front lock directly into the console and move both together - typically needs at least two pairs of hands but is just for a test. The curly lead is something that can go wrong and this might highlight or deny that. 

Does your console sounder 'beep' when you use keys - this can supply important info about things; the console has +15V DC supply for the front lock via curly lead, only thing in the console that runs on this is the sounder - so no sound indicates a +15V supply problem.

The front lock can go wrong in several ways. Occasionally the sensors themselves will go wrong, however ERR 200 is often caused by physical damage to a resistor pack mounted on the PCB within the Selector Support - I'll have a look to see if I can rescue some photos that display this from old emails later.

In our experience the actual cause of ERR 200 may be a number of things that may well cause other errors, but ERR 200 is all that you will see as that's as far as you can get with the system.

These are just a few of the things that come to mind and suspect we/you need to do some work to define things better.

Richard


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## 28pearson (Dec 17, 2017)

Hello Colleen,

It has taken me some time to find - but as promised some photos relating to ERR 200 and front lock.

This is a fault that we have seen several times over the last few years. It is something we found very odd and unlikely - but is certainly more common than we thought. Please be aware that the SIL resistor package detailed here is BLACK in colour - but have seen these all sorts of colours including bright red, sky blue, black, yellow/brown etc.

These SIL's are typically a number of individual thick film resistors in a network - this one 5 off 22K Ohm resistors with one common to all connections. - so 6 single inline pins. The thick film network mounted upon a ceramic base and enclosed in a special epoxy/protective cover. (3 of 5 relate directly to optical sensors and other 2 of 5 to pusher action)

We have seen these completely missing/broken off from the PCB - bit also with part chipped/broken off, part left in situ. As inside is typically white, this can be often very visible if you know where to look!

As an example - received a lock + console recently which together often showed ERR 200. Console was fine and lock looked OK to begin with. However turned out SIL was damaged and found to be loose (easily moved from side to side) so probably a 'number of legs already broken'. Later on lock disassembly whole SIL body fell out leaving legs behind - replacing SIL and realignment problem appears sorted!

I have attached 3 pictures here. one shows the SIL before installation and the body part that often breaks off. The other two show a photo of the front lock optical sensor area where you should be able to see the Selector Support PCB and the SIL mounted upon it.

Incidently, replacing this SIL resistor is not just a simple solder job. The whole front lock must be disassembled to get to that PCB, then part reassembled, then mechanically realigned with the help of a gauge and CAST ON 97 and long periods of testing and finally fully reassembled.

The photos show how well this component is seated, its total height above the PCB is a bit above the plastic slot part of the sensors but hardly exposed to physical damage - you would think! 

Depending upon the damage etc - ERR 200, ERR 207 and incorrect operation of pushers are possible errors - but the 1st error the console sees may well stop you ever knowing about any others!

Richard


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## colleenr (Dec 22, 2017)

Richard:

First of all, thank you for taking time to help me with this. Here are the results of the tests I performed:

Can you get Start Position to be accepted: Yes
'Air Knitting' with cast on 97: 
Programmed CO 97 into console
Put in Start Position
Prompted to knit empty row
Moved locks to the left
Prompted to put handle in the up position - did that
Prompted to knit empty row
While moving lock to the right received the Error 200

Connect console directly to front lock:
Programmed CO 97 into console
Put in Start Position
Prompted to knit empty row
Moved locks to the left
Prompted to put handle in the up position - did that
Prompted to knit empty row
Knit Empty Row successfully
Prompted to use color 1
This one was successful! This points to the curly lead being the problem.

Does your console sounder 'beep' when you use keys: Yes

What would you suggest my next step be?


Below are pictures of my front lock:


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## 28pearson (Dec 17, 2017)

Hi Colleen,

Sounds like its your curly/coiled lead. This is a known fault area for things like this, although it can be difficult to prove without effectively replacing it.
The lead has 6 internal wires and often one of these fractures and effectively breaks one (or more) of the console - lock links when it is stressed/stretched in a particular way. This is normally close to the rear lock end and the cable protection sleeve often breaks here too.

We normally get a good result by taking apart the lock end, effectively cutting back the old by about 30-40mm and completely remaking that end - sometimes we see damage when doing this but that is not a definite. Typically the break is intermittent and things like continuity/resistance tests from end to end are useless to see this fault.
We normally replace the old cable protection sleeve with a black neoprene one , but that is not essential. Sometimes we effectively lengthen the coiled length bit to compensate for the loss, by simply adjusting where the straight bit comes from the console @ the masthead - there is plenty of straight cable left there. So far all we have done seem to give a positive result when put back into normal use etc.

This is not a difficult task, but needs soldering iron etc. - so a practical rather than technical job - a much cheaper option than trying to get a new/replacement one etc. That cable cleans up nicely too with water and standard household bath cleaner - CIF or similar,

I assume you are in the USA - am not sure if any 'local' dealers are capable or even aware of this - have never heard of anybody else doing this although we have now done it numerous times here in the UK.

Richard


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## colleenr (Dec 22, 2017)

Richard:

Again, thank you so much for your help. I am in the USA so I shall look for someone that can help me with this, as I don't feel qualified to attempt it. Your help in diagnosing the issue has been invaluable!


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## Maryknits513 (Feb 12, 2011)

colleenr said:


> Richard:
> 
> Again, thank you so much for your help. I am in the USA so I shall look for someone that can help me with this, as I don't feel qualified to attempt it. Your help in diagnosing the issue has been invaluable!


Hi Colleen,

Try Pat Groves at Knit-A-Bit in Oregon City OR https://www.knit-a-bit-oregon.com/KnitaBit/index.html or Michael Becker in Aurora, IN www.dknits.com


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## colleenr (Dec 22, 2017)

Will do! Thank you for the suggestions!


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## yarn56401 (Mar 21, 2013)

Would you know where I can get a Passap e6000 electronic console?
Thanks, Diane


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## jaysclark (Jan 26, 2013)

yarn56401 said:


> Would you know where I can get a Passap e6000 electronic console?
> Thanks, Diane


Well, they usually come with the machine, so you might have to buy another machine and keep one for spares, or find one that someone is breaking for spares


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## AbqJoy (Mar 21, 2019)

Richard, thank you for doing this.
I just received a used e6000 and have seen the video, trying to put it together. I can’t get the 2 color changer to fit on the bolts. It seems the bolts are too large for the slots. What am I doing wrong or do I have a wrong part? The bolt on the bottom of the bed has a thumb screw type nut not the wing nut as in the video. The bolts seem to be 5mm if I measured right, the hole only 4mm. 
Thanks, Joyce


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## AbqJoy (Mar 21, 2019)

Richard and all that received this, thank you for being here to offer help. I just figured it out. The bolt has a slot on the end. I loosened it and revealed the smaller part of the bolt. The bolt had been tightened so it would not fall off. The color changer slid into place perfectly and tightened down correctly. Thank you all.
Joyce


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## 28pearson (Dec 17, 2017)

Joyce - For some reason I was never alerted to your comment - If anyone appears to get no response then try and contact me direct


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## LittlegreySheep (Jun 16, 2019)

Dear Richard
I have been reading with interest on the problems with error200 on Passap. Is there some one you could recommend to give my pass the once overawe are based in Hampshire
Regards


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## 28pearson (Dec 17, 2017)

The biggest problem today - probably all over the world - is finding somebody to look @ any make of knitting machine @ a low cost. Firstly there are very few 'dealers' and spare parts are rare and perhaps very expensive. There is nobody we know of in Southern UK. Do not know where in Hampshire you are - but you could easily be up to 90 miles away from me - at least 2 hours either way by car for a single trip and expensive. Personally I do not travel around, my wife does short distances but any travel is expensive. Also here you do not actually have a definite problem and travelling a long way just to give a 'once over'? 

Sorry no one I can recommend!

Regards

Richard Croucher


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