# Good Lord, What Have I Done?!!!



## Eag1eOne (Oct 24, 2011)

I hate sewing. I like making sweaters, but I hate sewing. The other day I bought a serger (overlock) machine which I was having fun with. Now my dilemma. What is the best way to sew hand knitted fabric with this machine? I'm afraid that the foot (feet?) will catch the fabric and make a mess. Does anyone have this sort of machine and can advise me of how to best utilize it?


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## Doriseve (Jul 7, 2014)

Gif you don't want to cut your knitted fabric, you will have to remove the knife. There should be a knob just below the blade which you should pull and swing the blade down under the machine. You must guide your fabric carefully.


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## rainie (Jan 12, 2013)

I was taught to use tissue paper on both sides of the fabric. This was with a regular machine.


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## jbandsma (Mar 6, 2011)

A serger is NOT a good machine for hand knits. A regular sewing machine is better but hand stitching is best (except for steeking)


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## Eag1eOne (Oct 24, 2011)

Doriseve said:


> Gif you don't want to cut your knitted fabric, you will have to remove the knife. There should be a knob just below the blade which you should pull and swing the blade down under the machine. You must guide your fabric carefully.


There's a switch on the side that "turns off" the knives, but I like your advise better. Finding my hard work chopped up laying on the floor would definitely lead to having a bad day.

Thank you


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## Eag1eOne (Oct 24, 2011)

rainie said:


> I was taught to use tissue paper on both sides of the fabric. This was with a regular machine.


Wouldn't tissue paper tear?


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## Nancy Deak (May 5, 2014)

First, I would disengage the cutter, then loosen the presser foot so it will be less likely to catch your knitting. You might want to try wooly nylon in the loopers. If your knitted fabric still catches, you can sew over tissue paper and then tear it away when you are done. I have also used the clear wash away stabilizer. It pulls away easily and any remainder will disappear when washed.

Four thread overlock is overkill, three thread will work just as well. I always do a test stitch on everything to test tensions, stitch length, etc.


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## Eag1eOne (Oct 24, 2011)

jbandsma said:


> A serger is NOT a good machine for hand knits. A regular sewing machine is better but hand stitching is best (except for steeking)


Everything I've read says that the machine will do the job. Hmmm...well I now own the thing, so I'll give it a try.

Thank you


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## Eag1eOne (Oct 24, 2011)

Nancy Deak said:


> First, I would disengage the cutter, then loosen the presser foot so it will be less likely to catch your knitting. You might want to try wooly nylon in the loopers. If your knitted fabric still catches, you can sew over tissue paper and then tear it away when you are done. I have also used the clear wash away stabilizer. It pulls away easily and any remainder will disappear when washed.
> 
> Four thread overlock is overkill, three thread will work just as well. I always do a test stitch on everything to test tensions, stitch length, etc.


What does the stabilizer do? Does it make the fabric stiff?


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## rainie (Jan 12, 2013)

Eag1eOne said:


> Wouldn't tissue paper tear?


I guess a better word is tracing paper. In a pinch, I've used typing paper.


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## mdhh (Jul 3, 2014)

Maybe do a couple of swatches and play with them?


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## Eag1eOne (Oct 24, 2011)

rainie said:


> I guess a better word is tracing paper. In a pinch, I've used typing paper.


I was thinking wax paper. But, now the question. Would the wax paper lubricate the needles, or leave a mess on the needles?


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## PapillonThreads (Mar 23, 2012)

Hmmmm....I'm getting intrigued!
I have a really nice sewing machine....never thought about using it on hand knits.... :thumbup: :XD: 
I'll be taking notes!


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## Eag1eOne (Oct 24, 2011)

mdhh said:


> Maybe do a couple of swatches and play with them?


Swatch. There's that word again. As Charlie Brown would say, "Arghhh!". LOL I've got some squares that I made for a blanket that I started years ago. I think I'll use them for the test.


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## Eag1eOne (Oct 24, 2011)

PapillonThreads said:


> Hmmmm....I'm getting intrigued!
> I have a really nice sewing machine....never thought about using it on hand knits.... :thumbup: :XD:
> I'll be taking notes!


Maybe we could just farm out the work? LOL


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## Munchn (Mar 3, 2013)

Do not "sew" you knitted items with a serger. You need to release the blade or you will cut off your knit.


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## PapillonThreads (Mar 23, 2012)

Eag1eOne said:


> Maybe we could just farm out the work? LOL


I have two sweaters waiting to be seamed....I'll have to think about this!


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## LindaBlueCat (Mar 8, 2015)

I own several of these... seamstress by trade, when I'm not a tax preparer or bookkeeper. .lol.

many knits will just feed nicely, no paper or stabilizer necessary. Wooly nylon or wooly poly are great, and disengage the knives however your machine does this. On shoulder seams you might want to use a clear elastic or even a twill tape as in ready to wear to prevent stretching or sagging.

play with the machine for a bit, it will be much less daunting soon. Enjoy!


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## GrandmaNona (Aug 2, 2013)

I use typing/copy paper (sometimes on both sides) for anything that might get caught in the feet or feed dogs when I am sewing. Yes waxed paper will work, too. Tissue paper will also work on top if your "fabric" is not overly thick. As a retired seamstress, I can say that these do work. If you really want to err on the safe side, the blade(s) can be removed from your serger. Play around with your machine using fabric first so you can get use to it and what it can do; before you ever attempt to use it on hand knits. JMO

Enjoy your fiber arts,

GrandmaNona


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## Dcsmith77 (Apr 18, 2011)

Have you asked Brother about the uses of this machine? Many places that sell these machines offer free instruction. If not, then perhaps researching on the internet would turn up some tips as well as here at KP. 

My daughter has had one for many years, but she said she didn't think she would use it on my knitting, although she does use it for tee shirts and other machined knits.


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## fergablu2 (Apr 30, 2011)

Disengage the blade!

If you want to make a truely stretchy seam, you have to use wooly nylon in the needle, too. For bulky knits, you'll want to increase the stitch length. I wouldn't advise using paper with a serged seam, since I dion't know how you would remove it all. 

I've been sewing for decades, and I still have to serge on scrap fabric for every project to make sure that the seam is balanced. You're sewing with at least three threads, and, if the settings aren't correct, you're going to have a mess. Trying to rip out a serged seam is difficult on regular fabric. I'm a professional seamstress, as in I've been to school for fashion design and sewing, and I would never use my serger on my hand knits. 

I would suggest that you try sewing a project using something like t-shirt or fleece fabric from the store before you ever unleash your new machine on any hand knits.


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## LizR (Jan 17, 2015)

Eag1eOne said:


> What does the stabilizer do? Does it make the fabric stiff?


No it will not make it stiff.
The stabilizer(a type of woven papery substance), tissue paper or strips of other paper which is easily removed after sewing through it (it becomes perforated by the sewing machine needle) is used so that the presser foot will not catch in the loose fabric, prevent sliding(silk, rayon etc.) or for backing machine embroidery so that the fabric does not stretch. The stabilizer will not affect your fabric, whether it be knitted or yardage fabric.
Good idea to practice on your already knitted squares. I'm guessing but the machines used to serge sweater seams in factories may be specially adapted for the task.


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## IndigoSpinner (Jul 9, 2011)

Eag1eOne said:


> Wouldn't tissue paper tear?


Tissue paper will generally hold together well enough to ease the movement of the knitted item through the presser foot/feed dogs. It will help keep the top layer from being tugged and stretched out by the presser foot, and the bottom layer will protect the bottom layer from the feed dogs wich would otherwise snag them.

Cut long strips, and place them over the intended seam area.

Yes, tissue paper will tear, which is what you want, so you can remove it after you've sewn the seam.

You could also try cutting long strips of tear-away stabilizer which is something made specifically to do what the tissue paper does.


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## ADW55 (Mar 31, 2014)

Eag1eOne said:


> Maybe we could just farm out the work? LOL


Sent you a PM.


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## Eag1eOne (Oct 24, 2011)

Wow! Never did I expect such an abundance of advice from my fellow KP'ers!
All very good and sound advice too I might add.

I guess the trick is to use some sort of paper to keep the foot from snagging on the fabric.

TURN OFF the knives! Yep, definitely a good one. :-D 

And least of all...Have fun with the machine.

You people are the greatest. Now I'm off to tame the monster!


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## scumbugusa (Oct 10, 2011)

Think of your knitted piece sandwiched between the paper. It smoothes the piece so it does not catch on the macines foot.

I have to admit you are braver than I am, I would not attempt to use my serger for sewing my knitting.

Send pictures of how it turns out


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## scumbugusa (Oct 10, 2011)

Non waxed is better. You would need firm but thinner paper


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## cathy47 (Jun 6, 2011)

Eag1eOne said:


> Wouldn't tissue paper tear?


Not tissue paper. There is a Stablizer. You can use a thick interfacing and pin strips to the seam area. But I would never use a surger on knitted items. If you can take that back and swap out for a sewing machine do so but get your money back first so you don't get screwed in plain language. Still go to WM or fabric store and look for a stablizer and not tissue thin either. Stablizer is used in embordery to give support to the fabric while sewing. you can get it at fabric stores or box stores as they are called. Interfacing would be the next pick but not thin stuff either. You want a tear away product if possible.


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## nanma esther (Aug 22, 2011)

I have used news paper in a pinch, but it can leave ink on your project, but it will wash out


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## disgo (Mar 2, 2013)

First learn the basics of serging knits before attempting hand knits. No paper or stabilizer is needed--that was for inexperienced home sewers as a crutch and machines have advanced a long way since then (messing with pressure foot pressure/tension with knobs on the top of the shaft for example).http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=serging+knits+and+videos&qpvt=Serging+Knits+and+Videos&FORM=VDRE

Get lessons or information from your dealer for the specific needs you have. I see in your photo you have the raised pressure foot attachment so read through your manual to see how and when it is used.

If you are making sweaters from a sweater body (long tube with ribbing on one end) you need to engage the cutter blade to trim off excess seam allowances. This panics most but do your sample first. The stitch length can be shortened, the safety stitch can be used (regular chain stitch for the actual seam with both seam allowance edges of the fabric overcast together will go no where as manufacturers have been doing for eons. Or you can now opt for the rolled hem stitch feature and just lengthen the stitch length to keep the knit from puckering. It creates an I cord seam like a French seam in woven fabric and is very attractive in more sheer of lacey knits.

Make sure when joining shoulders to do some form of reinforcement. In some situations you even do the back neck line as well. Do not add bulk. If making a binding edge just sew one edge of the binding to the garment and merely fold over and inside and then stitch in the ditch on the first seam with the seam allowances going into the binding. Overcast the other edge.

The serger does all the work so if you are forcing, stretching etc. you need more practice and the right settings. The seam of the serger is ten times more stretchy than any sewing machine stretch stitch since all but one thread is looped (just like your knitting) with only one going through a needle.

If sewing hand knits pieces you have already made all the shaping needed so then raise the cutter blade and use a simple overcast which is enough to create a seam. Pull your sample pieces apart with a stretch when done to see if the stitches show--if so adjust the overcast thread numbers or the pressure if possible. Most sergers now days have automatic tensions so you would need to read in your manual or contact dealer.

I even have a foot attachment on my Baby Lock that applies any sort of elastic to knit hems like in socks that I have used many times--you don't even need to fuss with the quartering method that most teach to install elastic.


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## Joy Marshall (Apr 6, 2011)

jbandsma said:


> A serger is NOT a good machine for hand knits. A regular sewing machine is better but hand stitching is best (except for steeking)


I am with you on that.


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## seamer45 (Jan 18, 2011)

Yes you will want to disengage the blade,not remove it. And you can use tissue paper but I find waxed paper or the same but unwaxed. Name won't come to me right now.
Also there are water soluble interfacings that could be used. They melt away easily.


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## seamer45 (Jan 18, 2011)

Yes you will want to disengage the blade,not remove it. And you can use tissue paper but I find waxed paper or the same but unwaxed. Name won't come to me right now.
Also there are water soluble interfacings that could be used. They melt away easily, and there's tear away interfacing that would work.


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## IndigoSpinner (Jul 9, 2011)

Joy Marshall said:


> I am with you on that.


Then why are commercially made sweaters all serged?


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## Joy Marshall (Apr 6, 2011)

lostarts said:


> Then why are commercially made sweaters all serged?


Because they are not hand knits.


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## IndigoSpinner (Jul 9, 2011)

Joy Marshall said:


> Because they are not hand knits.


Yeah, but the yarn and knitting are the same as hand knits.

They use the knife on the serger, but you don't have to for a hand knit.


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## peanutpatty (Oct 14, 2012)

I tried one sweater with my serger. I wasn't happy with the result, it made the seam a little bulky. Much better to sew with an ordinary machine using a slight zig-zag.


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## NewYorkBarb (Mar 22, 2013)

My seamstress uses a serger and I have taken many things to her to make less wide and they come out perfcetly.


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## JillKay (Mar 17, 2013)

Eag1eOne said:


> I hate sewing. I like making sweaters, but I hate sewing. The other day I bought a serger (overlock) machine which I was having fun with. Now my dilemma. What is the best way to sew hand knitted fabric with this machine? I'm afraid that the foot (feet?) will catch the fabric and make a mess. Does anyone have this sort of machine and can advise me of how to best utilize it?


Hello there - I am both a hand and machine knitter and often cut and sew my necklines. With a neckline I draw the the shape with chalk, sew a long straight stitch with the sewing machine and then overlock on the outside of the line of stitching. I do not disengage my knife for this because I want to cut away the fabric. I use the differential feed option.

When I do a total cut and sew garment - ie starting with a length of knitting - I often overlock the shape (knife engaged and differential feed) and then sew the seams by hand.

I also use the serger for tidying up seams where there have been a lot of colour changes and a lot of ends to finish off. In this case, I sew up the seam by hand and then overlock the seam with the knife running just outside the fabric - it does not cut but it does secure all those threads nicely. Differential feed again and the knife remains engaged.

I hope that helps you to use your serger on your knitting.

Jill in Adelaide


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## roseknit (Apr 2, 2011)

Hand sewing is best unless your work is felted then a machine is best


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## TheHomeKeeper (Jun 12, 2012)

Gosh, I have a serger, but would never dream off using it in knots. All the information on here at least convinces me it would be a possibility.
I do quite a bit off top down work and am quite pleased with how I have perfected my mattress stitch seaming so I think this will be my seaming method for a while.
All the best in your new "Serger Adventure".


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## apette (Mar 15, 2012)

I have this exact machine and it does a wonderful job of joining seems. I suggest you make up some swatches and practice, practice, practice. You need to familiarize yourself with the differential feed to get the tension right for sewing your knits. Read your manual until you fully understand what this feature does.


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## nfadely (May 29, 2015)

Check the manual and find the option for knits and gathering. Pin your knitting about an inch from the edges, then carefully serge along the edges. Been doing this for years, and it works


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## samdog13 (May 24, 2014)

Eag1eOne said:


> Swatch. There's that word again. As Charlie Brown would say, "Arghhh!". LOL I've got some squares that I made for a blanket that I started years ago. I think I'll use them for the test.


That is the best idea. Don't sic your machine on a good hand knit until you know it will work on a sample....


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## patocenizo (Jun 24, 2011)

Oh Oh...!!


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## beaz (Mar 16, 2013)

Does anyone have this sort of machine and can advise me of how to best utilize it?[/quote]

I recently purchased the DZ version and it is a very fast serger. My old Singer had a slower motor that had better control. All I can say is practice with the foot control too until you are comfortable with the speed.


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## cgbrn01 (Feb 15, 2015)

I'm new, do we really have to do swatches?


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## Trisha 38 (Nov 30, 2014)

:thumbup:


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## Marge St Pete (Jul 21, 2011)

I know it works on hand knits but I don't like the finish I think it "cheapens" your beautiful hand knit. I've had and used a serger (overlock machine) for over 26 years. I think a hand sewn seam looks much more professional on a hand knit item.


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## Ladycamper (Apr 29, 2013)

Check on U tube. There must be something out there for using a serger on knitted items. I would not use the cutting blade on this. Paper under the seams might jam in the teeth. A stabilizer paper would be a better choice. It may be called "tear away stabilizer". It is used in paper piecing quilting. Good luck.


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## Lizruork (Aug 25, 2013)

i guess i could make a small part time job out of seaming... i do find it peaceful and meditative..... sort of like ...... knitting lol

i would take an old piece of knitted fabric and do some practice runs.... 
i would worry about the thread you use possibly cutting into knitting yarn fibres... 

good luck.. sure is a dazzling machine ;-)


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## BeeSnooks (Feb 18, 2013)

jbandsma said:


> A serger is NOT a good machine for hand knits. A regular sewing machine is better but hand stitching is best (except for steeking)


What is steeking


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## annweb (Feb 23, 2012)

Paper usually is advised.


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## meemommie (Apr 5, 2015)

Hopefully you bought your serger from a dealer who can help you with these questions. I have had a server for over 15 years and love it. I have sewn on knit fabrics but never hand knits. Again, I suggest you take it with you,visit your dealer, and ask questions. If you have not bought from a local dealer, call one who handles your maker. Some dealers offer new owner machine classes and will accept you for a fee if you bought elsewhere.


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## tmvasquez (May 7, 2013)

I would never machine stitch a knitted item. I try to make the seams so they are invisible by hand stitching. You can't do that with a sewing machine. This would ruin the look of your item.


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## meemommie (Apr 5, 2015)

Hopefully you bought your serger from a dealer who can help you with these questions. I have had a server for over 15 years and love it. I have sewn on knit fabrics but never hand knits. Again, I suggest you take it with you,visit your dealer, and ask questions. If you have not bought from a local dealer, call one who handles your maker. Some dealers offer new owner machine classes and will accept you for a fee if you bought elsewhere.


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## Teriwm (Jun 18, 2012)

My girlfriend Judy used thin strips of tissue paper or tear away stabilizer to keep her knitting from catching when she machine sewed them together


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## jonibee (Nov 3, 2011)

Is there a manual that came with it or do you have to go on line and retrieve it? Before delving into it ..try sample pieces to see if it's going to work..Don't they have a class of instructiion on this machine where you bought it..or go back and ask to be shown..We use to have a fabric store that had machines to sell and they would demonstrate how it worked.


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## chinook (Apr 25, 2015)

So...what is steeking? I was also taught to use tissue paper for napped or loosely woven fabric, but never thought to sew handknits together by machine? Why would one do that? I do have a project on the needles that before finishing it has become way too big...well...more accurately, I have become smaller. I thought to make two rows of machine stitching and cut between them to make a narrower body. What say y'all?


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## JTM (Nov 18, 2012)

I have used a serger to "take in" a sweater that was HUGE... and I have rippled seams. Obviously, I did not find the "right" way to use the serger to seam a sweater. In spite of not liking to "sew" the seams...I would never use the machine again for that purpose.
Switch to knitting sweaters in the round...no seams at all.


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## Engprof (Dec 9, 2013)

Eag1eOne said:


> What does the stabilizer do? Does it make the fabric stiff?


I used to work in a sewing/craft chain store. My understanding for using stabilizer with knits is that it will help with keeping your knitted fabric from stretching while you sew, so it lessens the chances of winding up with ripples that distort your project.


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## Teatime4granny (Apr 4, 2011)

How about was away stabilizer. I use it all the time, mostly in embroidery, but I have used it in sewing.


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## snughollow (Aug 4, 2012)

Will never replace hand sewing.


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## KentuckyCrafter (Oct 19, 2013)

jbandsma said:


> A serger is NOT a good machine for hand knits. A regular sewing machine is better but hand stitching is best (except for steeking)


What is "steeking"? xxxo


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## Linda6885 (Feb 13, 2011)

I don't believe any machine is good to finish a handknit. Learn the mattrice stitch which is not difficult. Many of us do not like the finishing of a sweater, but for it to look professional, you just have to do it, and I would not suggest taking short cuts, because in the end, they aren't. If you sew a seam wrong with a machine, you can bet it won't be easy to take out and do it a second time.


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## Bebekka (Jun 4, 2011)

I, too, have a serger, the Baby Lock Imagine...I wouldn't even think of doing anything with knits on it...it would chop it up. And, you're talking about sweaters you are hand knitting?

I agree, use a regular sewing machine. And, be careful for your fingers, these machines go very quickly and the blade is very sharp -- you have to get used to controlling the speed with the foot pedal.


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## peanutpatty (Oct 14, 2012)

If you must use a machine, invest in a roller foot (for regular machines) It keeps the top foot from catching in any fabric.


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## gina (Jan 18, 2011)

I'd be scared to try it with my sweater, so would knit up some swatches and practice with them until I felt confident.


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## CBB (Sep 12, 2014)

Eag1eOne said:


> Wouldn't tissue paper tear?


The purpose of the tissue paper is to ease the fabric through the presser foot. It's especially useful for knit fabrics of all kinds, even for embroidering t-shirts. Yes, the paper tears, which makes it easier to pull away from the fabric.


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## Bebekka (Jun 4, 2011)

I use tissue paper, too, to help the fabric get caught by the feed dogs to guide it through.


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## Grandma Jo (Feb 18, 2011)

I would never use a serger on a hand knit or any kind of knit for that matter. Doing the mattress stitch works by hand works out well.


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## eneurian (May 4, 2011)

Eag1eOne said:


> I was thinking wax paper. But, now the question. Would the wax paper lubricate the needles, or leave a mess on the needles?


waxpaper is going to make a mess of the needles and the fabric. parchment will work or quilling strips. or like someone else said typing paper. just cut strips to a width that is comfortable for you and your machine. if you want it permanent use bias or twill tape. many,many options.


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## joycevv (Oct 13, 2011)

Often a serger will stretch knitted fabric. You could end up with a wavy ugly edge.


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## fdb123 (Mar 30, 2012)

KentuckyCrafter said:


> What is "steeking"? xxxo


Most stranded knitting projects, such as Fair Isle, are done in the round. In knitting a cardigan, for example, the knitting will eventually need to be cut down the center front to make the opening. Steeks are stitches that are intended to be cut to make the finished sweater without unraveling the rest of the work. Google "steeking" and watch a youtube video and this will make more sense. I'd type in a link but I don't know how to do that yet!


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## Pollard (Sep 17, 2011)

With all the "anx" involved, why not just buckle down to sewing by hand, just one seam at a time, nothing should go wrong with this, and it is far more suitable for hand knits, using the matching yarn if you have any. I am a life-long sewer and knitter,and feel this is my best advice. Blessings and good luck. By the way, I use a back stitch and not pulled tightly, slightly relaxed.


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## nitchik (May 30, 2011)

Ok, I've never used a serger, but based on the comments I've read so far, I would first knit a couple of fairly large swatches from leftover yarn, and give the process a practice run before going ahead with a real garment you've knitted.


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## Gweneth 1946 (May 20, 2012)

That is why I have never bought one. It is good for one thing only in my perspective. My sister in law has two sewing machines and a surger dry up in her sewing room and only uses it for edging.


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## Ask4j (May 21, 2011)

You do not like sewing but you bought a new sewing machine.....hmmmm have to think about that. 

As most have pointed out if you bought the serger for sewing together knit items, are you also using a machine to knit the items? I'm guessing most people here are hand knitting and would be appalled using a sewing machine to sew up seams but if the knit fabric is machine knit I can see that shouldn't be a big problem. However I do have some advice on threading your serger--do it once and never ever let the thread slip out of the needles just cut the threads and tie on the new color when switching. You'll know why once you have threaded it the first time.

Oh and one more thing, practice with your serger over and over again--find an old tee shirt or two or three. Ripping out a serged edge or seam is like ripping out mohair--you don't want to do it again.


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## Ask4j (May 21, 2011)

BeeSnooks said:


> What is steeking


Steeking is used for example when knitting one of those Norwegian patterned sweaters you need to knit in the round. But when you make a cardigan you need to machine stitch two rows either side of the center front where you cut down the middle then pick up stitches to create an edging for the buttons and button holes. The machine stitching keeps it from unraveling, of course.


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## KentuckyCrafter (Oct 19, 2013)

Thank you for that explanation...haven't seen that before!! xxxo


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## shirleyoboe (Feb 21, 2012)

Why would you want to????


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## alfief (Nov 11, 2014)

I have the perfect solution to that problem for myself. I have a 92yr old friend who used to be a seamstress. I hate sewing up and she loves it....my problem solved....


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## yramesor (Jan 3, 2013)

As long as the serger has differential feed you can use it to seam hand knits. I also agree to lift the knife. Your instruction book should have a guide to setting the tensions, etc for knit items. Practice with an old scrap or swatch before starting on the actual garment.


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## peanutpatty (Oct 14, 2012)

yramesor said:


> As long as the serger has differential feed you can use it to seam hand knits. I also agree to lift the knife. Your instruction book should have a guide to setting the tensions, etc for knit items. Practice with an old scrap or swatch before starting on the actual garment.


And it would be a good idea to use swatches of the same weight and type of yarn you want to sew.


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## annejo (May 3, 2011)

you should have a dial at the side of your machine called Differential feed it adjusts the stitch. do you not have a instruction book ? Anne


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## May (Jan 18, 2011)

You have spent hours and hours knitting your sweater by hand... It is a treasure and you know how much time and effort you put into it. Also, us knitters appreciate your work and patience.
Why on earth would you want to use a serger on your hand knit sweater is beyond me. 
So, you dislike sewing.... learn how to do it... It is not that hard and you have the patience and the perseverance to do it right. It would be like wearing a lovely designer dress with an old pair of sneakers...
Enough

said... 


Eag1eOne said:


> I hate sewing. I like making sweaters, but I hate sewing. The other day I bought a serger (overlock) machine which I was having fun with. Now my dilemma. What is the best way to sew hand knitted fabric with this machine? I'm afraid that the foot (feet?) will catch the fabric and make a mess. Does anyone have this sort of machine and can advise me of how to best utilize it?


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## Jessica-Jean (Mar 14, 2011)

lostarts said:


> Then why are commercially made sweaters all serged?


Not *all* commercially made (machine knit) sweaters _are_ serged. 
If you look at the seams on bunches (A second-hand store is a good place to see a wide assortment.) of seams, you'll see that the better ones are 'linked', not serged. 'Linked' is the industry's term for a crocheted slip-stitched seam. It is even possible to buy a linker to use at home on hand or machine knitted projects. On my wishlist: http://www.haguedirect.co.uk/acatalog/hague_d280e_electric_linker.html

Why do I know this? Because I inspect seams with a mind towards reusing the yarn; serged seams = almost useless short strands of yarn; linked seams = miles of knotless yarn.


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## Jessica-Jean (Mar 14, 2011)

cgbrn01 said:


> I'm new, do we really have to do swatches?


No. There are no 'knitting police'. You can slip the swatching step ... at your own peril. 
If you never make a sweater that is supposed to be a specific size upon completion, you need never swatch. 
If you're making flat things - scarves, shawls, tablecloths, washcloths, blankets of every size, you need never swatch.
If you are knitting items for charity, whatever size the finished item is, it will surely fit one person or another, so you need never swatch.
If you want to knit a sweater that actually fits the intended wearer well, you will be happier with the result if you have swatched beforehand. If you don't, then the unworn, unloved sweater may well end up quickly donated to a second-hand store where someone like me will see it, love its yarn, and buy it for a pittance - far less than the yarn alone would cost - and unravel it to reuse the yarn. I do it all the time! There are a few such unloved sweaters that I have not ripped out yet; they more or less fit me, so I wear them. Should I ever run out of yarn, they'll be unraveled too.


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## CathyG13 (Mar 1, 2013)

Eag1eOne said:


> I was thinking wax paper. But, now the question. Would the wax paper lubricate the needles, or leave a mess on the needles?


Yes, I have seen on sewing tutorials that wax paper will cause a buildup on the needles. I was sewing some quilt batting today on a regular machine, not on my serger, and used regular copy paper to keep the batting from hanging in the feed dogs. Tissue paper works well with lightweight fabrics, such as chiffon, but I would use something heavier with a hand knit item.
Butcher paper works well if you can find it. 
Definitely disengage the cutting knife. 
Stabilizer won't do anything to the knitted item. It simply tears away at the seam after sewing just as paper of any type will. 
Good luck and happy sewing.


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## azmoonbugs (Dec 2, 2011)

Eag1eOne said:


> I hate sewing. I like making sweaters, but I hate sewing. The other day I bought a serger (overlock) machine which I was having fun with. Now my dilemma. What is the best way to sew hand knitted fabric with this machine? I'm afraid that the foot (feet?) will catch the fabric and make a mess. Does anyone have this sort of machine and can advise me of how to best utilize it?


My advice is to take off the knife and to use strips of tear-away stabilizer on each side of the knitting.


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## May (Jan 18, 2011)

I just got some lovely sweaters at my favorite thrift store, here in Atlanta... for the yarn.... one of them is alpaca...

Just make sure you inspect the seams as Jessica Jean advises or else....

[u=Jessica-Jean]Not *all* commercially made (machine knit) sweaters _are_ serged. q
If you look at the seams on bunches (A second-hand store is a good place to see a wide assortment.) of seams, you'll see that the better ones are 'linked', not serged. 'Linked' is the industry's term for a crocheted slip-stitched seam. It is even possible to buy a linker to use at home on hand or machine knitted projects. On my wishlist: http://www.haguedirect.co.uk/acatalog/hague_d280e_electric_linker.html

Why do I know this? Because I inspect seams with a mind towards reusing the yarn; serged seams = almost useless short strands of yarn; linked seams = miles of knotless yarn. [/quote]


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## barbdpayne (Jan 24, 2011)

I have used my sewing machine to make new seams when the sweater is too big. I use old tissue paper--and have even used typing paper. The paper keeps the needle from grabbing the yarn. I sew down the new seam twice and then again 1/8 inch away and then I cut the old seam out so there is no bulk. Works like a charm. The needle will perforate the paper so it tears away easily. If I didn't hate getting my sewing machine out and making bobbins I would probably do this with all my sweater seams.


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