# ten stitch blanket - frustration



## patact (Jun 10, 2011)

I am new to this site and really have enjoyed so much about the community.
In looking over previous posts, I found a link I followed regarding the ten stitch blanket. I loved the way it looked, and figured that it would be a great way to use up some of my stash. Comments spoke about it being easy to do, once you got the hang of the pattern. Well, I cannot figure out the pattern well enough to get the raised edges. I checked on you tube, and the only video is in German, plus that knitter is so speedy, even after MANY viewings, I still don't get it. Does anyone have suggestions or can steer me to a site where I can learn the trick to this blanket? 
Thank you.


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## hildy3 (Jan 29, 2011)

Hi Patach...I copied that same pattern, but have not tried it yet. Are you making the circular one? Will be watching for replies to you so I will know, too. :roll: Thanks for the post..Hildy


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## patact (Jun 10, 2011)

Honestly, Iloveboth of the patterns, and have tried both, but then I get stuck because I can't figure out the joining. There is also a video on YouTube for the circular one, but it is also German. Hopefully, we'll both hear from people who have had success with this blanket.


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## siouxann (Mar 5, 2011)

Waiting with both of you. The pattern is intriguing in all of its forms. One of the pictures looks like the knitter used Noro yarn. Beautiful!


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## patact (Jun 10, 2011)

I agree about the Noro, but that would be SO pricey. Right now I want to try it using various skeins I have, and then make one out of Noro in the future. What I've read on various sites is that ONCE you learn the tough part of the pAttern, it is a simple and 'mindless' knitting experience. Other comments have included comments that the pattern is not clearly written, and has stumped experienced knitters who have looked at it. I am sure when it is finally clear to me it will be a 'DUH!' or an "ah-ha" moment. Waiting to smack myself in the forehead when the revelation appears here. I hope.
:-o


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## beadness (Apr 14, 2011)

I have not knit this blanket myself yet, but it is next on my list of things to make. I've been collecting some tips on how to make it. Not sure where I found this, probably one of the Ravelry forums. Since it was online, I don't think there is a problem if I post the notes here:

Doowicky > notebook > projects > 10 Stitch Blanket (detailed comments)

First the yarn: It is a single (not plyed) and its splitty, a tad more thick/thin than Id like, and I did come across two slubs I had to bypass plus a knot in my first skein. However! The color changes are well-executed in the dyeing and once you get used to working with the splitty aspect, the yarn is nice to work with. I have not come across any more of those long slubs since (knock on wood), it may have just been that one skein.

The pattern consists of two types of knitting. You have to pay judicious attention to the corners, because every row is different (short rowing). I mark off every row-pair (more about that later). The other knitting type is the straightaways between the corners. That part is TV knitting, and its duration gets longer and longer as you progress on the spiral effect. I really like knitting this project, it can be very addicting.

First Tip: Re-write the corner instructions. The author gives row-by-row instructions (very nice of her to have added that!) but it makes for 34 separate row instructions, all of which are the same two row pattern except for the number of knit stitches in each row. I condensed it by combining the pairs of rows onto one line (row 1 and row 2 go together, rows 3 and 4 go together, etc.). In fact, I condensed yet further once I memorized the wrap/turn instructions so that my written corner stitching guide now simply reads 
8/9 
7/8 
6/7 (and so on down to 
1/1 which is the one row where you dont slip the first stitch, and is also the halfway point between the two sides of the corner. 
Then 
1/2 
2/3 
3/4 and so on back up to 8/9, whereupon your corner is finished and you begin on the straightaway again. (If you look at the pattern, youll understand.) It was just heaps easier to find my place, and mark off each row pair, using this abbreviated format.

Second tip: The pattern calls for slipping the first stitch in every other row. She refers to the bumps that are left, which you will use for pick-up-and-knit on a later spiral portion. I quickly found those bumps not to be ideal for the pickup-and-knits you will be doing throughout the building of the spiral. I began slipping that first stitch purlwise, which leaves a nice, easily-recognizable chain edge. THE RIDGES LOOK THE SAME EITHER WAY and they are much more attractive in person than in photo. But purlwise, you can readily see which chain pair of strands youve used before and stab into the next one consistently, every row.

Third Tip: A BIGGIE! These are only ten-stitch rows. You are turning your work constantly. This threatened to undermine my enjoyment of this project as soon as I had enough bulk completed. I was working with KnitPicks Harmony Interchangeable needles (the tips attached by a cord for circulars) which is what I use for straight knitting also. Normal size straights would have started annoying me just as much. It finally dawned on me that if I removed the cable, my tips were more than adequate lengths (in fact perfect!) for this short of a row! (See Photos 2 and 3). I attached tip guards to the cable-screw ends but with only 10 sts. you could do without them no problem.

Oh, a HUGE boon that was. I dont have to turn the entire work, at all. Ever. Just the edge Im working on. It simply flips back and forth and the short needles flip easily with it. No matter how big this project gets, it can remain a folded blanket in your lap. Youre only working with one edge. You dont need to own the whole set of interchangeables, you could order just one set of tips in the size needle youre working with. (I really think its well worth it even if youd never use them again.)

So with those discoveries and modifications, Im really enjoying this project, and Ive accepted any trade-offs in the yarn in order to get the gorgeous color changes they achieved in the dyeing. I have read not to put a project in this yarn in the dryer, so thats your call should you use this yarn, either in the mini grist or in the Mochi Plus grist. Same fiber in both.

I hope these tips and project note will help someone, its a project you do need to get used to doing, but once you do, it can be very relaxing and addicting knitting.


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## bae (May 24, 2011)

Am so glad others are having problems...this has frustrated me so I just thought not advanced enough to do...will keep watching this post...and keep trying...


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## siouxann (Mar 5, 2011)

Beadness, THANK YOU so much for these detailed notes!!! I have printed them off and will keep them in the same folder with the blanket instructions. You took a lot of time to be very clear, and I appreciate your thoroughness. Thanks again, Sue


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## waya (Mar 25, 2011)

Patact,
I retyped the pattern I used the suggestions on here as to slipping as to P on the first stitch. I take no credit for the pattern I got it from Raverly. I just re typed it so I could understand and follow it better. Hope it helps u also. Jane


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## waya (Mar 25, 2011)

SOOOO sorry I put on the origional pattern Here is the one I re-typed hope it helps


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## Hagridsmom (Jan 25, 2011)

I haven't knit this yet either but when going thru the pictures of projects at Ravelry I picked up 2 references for making it easier. Not sure if they are the same as beadness's suggestions. I am just copying and pasting ...

(first one)

"I found the pattern somewhat confusing the way it was written. I really need things spelled out. Michele at Loose Ends Yarn Shop was a huge help to me. For those who are easily confused like me, this is what I did (slipped stitches were slipped knitwise unless stated otherwise):
CORNER INSTRUCTIONS: 

SL1, K8 YFWD, SL1 PWISE, YB, TURN 
SL1 PWISE, YB, K9 

SL1, K7, YFWD, SL1 PWISE, YB, TURN 
SL1 PWISE, YB, K8 

SL1, K6, YFWD, SL1 PWISE, YB, TURN 
SL1 PWISE, YB, K7 

SL1, K5, YFWD, SL1 PWISE, YB, TURN 
SL1 PWISE, YB, K6 

SL1, K4, YFWD, SL1 PWISE, YB, TURN 
SL1 PWISE, YB, K5 

SL1, K3, YFWD, SL1 PWISE, YB, TURN 
SL1 PWISE, YB, K4 

SL1, K2, YFWD, SL1 PWISE, YB, TURN 
SL1 PWISE, YB, K3 

SL1, K1, YFWD, SL1 PWISE, YB, TURN 
SL1 PWISE, YB K2 

SL1, YFWD, SL1 PWISE, YB, TURN 
SL1 PWISE, YB, K1

SL1, K1, YFWD, SL1 PWISE, YB, TURN 
SL1 PWISE, YB, K2 

SL1, K2, YFWD, SL1 PWISE, YB, TURN 
SL1 PWISE, YB, K3 

SL1, K3, YFWD, SL1 PWISE, YB, TURN 
SL1 PWISE, YB, K4 

SL1, K4, YFWD, SL1 PWISE, YB, TURN 
SL1 PWISE, YB, K5 

SL1, K5, YFWD, SL1 PWISE, YB, TURN 
SL1 PWISE, YB, K6 

SL1, K6, YFWD, SL1 PWISE, YB, TURN 
SL1 PWISE, YB, K7 

SL1, K7, YFWD, SL1 PWISE, YB, TURN 
SL1 PWISE, YB, K8 

SL1, K8, YFWD, SL1 PWISE, YB, TURN 
SL1 PWISE, YB, K9

To achieve the ridges when attaching the rows on the straight edges, I did the rows this way:
ROW 1: SL1, K8, SL1 PWISE, P/U working yarn from between bumps on edge of blanket and knit that ST and previous slipped ST together.
ROW 2: SL1 PWISE, YB, K9"


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## Hagridsmom (Jan 25, 2011)

second set of suggestions: (at least one of these was blogged about.)

"8/31/10 - Here is my version of Frankies pattern, as Ive had rather a lot of requests for it! If anything doesnt make sense, drop me a PM and Ill do my best to explain. This is what worked for me. Im not a pattern-writer by any stretch, so please bear with me!
A few notes:
When doing the CO, I found that the half-hitch method made it far easier later on when I had to knit into the CO edge. Long-tail made too tight of a CO edge for me. YMMV.

All slipped stitches through the whole pattern are slipped purlwise EXCEPT when you work the K2tog for the joins.
When you slip purlwise, keep your working yarn off to the right, slip the stitch, then make sure to return yarn to working position by bringing it around to the left and between the needles. If you just bring it to working position from the back, it will mess up the slipped-stitch ridge along the edge and youll get a funky, lumpy join later on. It took me about 4 tries to figure this out!

The original pattern says to work 2 rows of straight garter on all 10 stitches between the decreases of the corners and the increases of the corners. I didnt like the way that looked, so I omitted it completely.

Ok, so heres the modified pattern:
CO 10 st 

K 18 rows of garter, slipping first stitch of every row PURLWISE. Make sure you mark the right side of the work. This will save you much heartache later on!

Work a mitered corner: 
Row 1: Sl 1, K8, yfwd, sl 1 pwise, yb, turn. 
Row 2: Sl 1 pwise, yb, K9. 
Row 3: Sl 1, K7, yfwd, sl 1 pwise, yb, turn. 
Row 4: Sl 1 pwise, yb, K8. 
Row 5: Sl 1, K6, yfwd, sl 1 pwise, yb, turn. 
Row 6: Sl 1 pwise, yb, K7. 
Row 7: Sl 1, K5, yfwd, sl 1 pwise, yb, turn. 
Row 8: Sl 1 pwise, yb, K6. 
Row 9: Sl 1, K4, yfwd, sl 1 pwise, yb, turn. 
Row 10: Sl 1 pwise, yb, K5. 
Row 11: Sl 1, K3, yfwd, sl 1 pwise, yb, turn. 
Row 12: Sl 1 pwise, yb, K4. 
Row 13: Sl 1, K2, yfwd, sl 1 pwise, yb, turn. 
Row 14: Sl 1 pwise, yb, K3. 
Row 15: Sl 1, K1, yfwd, sl 1 pwise, yb, turn. 
Row 16: Sl 1 pwise, yb, K2. 
Row 17: K1, yfwd, sl 1 pwise, yb, turn. 
Row 18: Sl 1 pwise, yb, K1. 

Now reverse the process, working back up to 9sts, still wrapping the st at each turn: 

Row 1: Sl 1, K1, yfwd, sl 1 pwise, yb, turn. 
Row 2: Sl 1 pwise, yb, K2. 
Row 3: Sl 1, K2, yfwd, sl 1 pwise, yb, turn. 
Row 4: Sl 1 pwise, yb, K3. 
Row 5: Sl 1, K3, yfwd, sl 1 pwise, yb, turn. 
Row 6: Sl 1 pwise, yb, K4. 
Row 7: Sl 1, K4, yfwd, sl 1 pwise, yb, turn. 
Row 8: Sl 1 pwise, yb, K5. 
Row 9: Sl 1, K5, yfwd, sl 1 pwise, yb, turn. 
Row 10: Sl 1 pwise, yb, K6. 
Row 11: Sl 1, K6, yfwd, sl 1 pwise, yb, turn. 
Row 12: Sl 1 pwise, yb, K7. 
Row 13: Sl 1, K7, yfwd, sl 1 pwise, yb, turn. 
Row 14: Sl 1 pwise, yb, K8. 
Row 15: Sl 1, K8, yfwd, sl 1 pwise, yb, turn. 
Row 16: Sl 1 pwise, yb, K9.

Thats your first corner. As soon as you finish that, you immediately do the whole thing again. This is what brings the work around far enough so that you can start working down the side edge of the previous knitting.

Now you work back along the side of the original piece of knitting, joining as you go:
Row 1: Sl 1 pwise, K8, sl 1 kwise, pick up 1 st from the side of the knitting (I went underneath the slipped stitch on the edge, YO, pull that back through to the right side), K2tog. This should give you a nice flat stitch on top of the join, and the back side of it should look clean with no lumpy bits. 
Row 2: sl 1 pwise, K 9.

Keep doing this until your working edge is even with the end of the previous work. Work a single mitered corner. Continue on with knitting and joining to the previous work, then working corners as necessary, to desired size."

It looks to me to be somewhat similar to the mitered corner blocks but I could easily be way off. I am currently doing the little frankie coin purse. When you are on ravelry and looking at her patterns click on the link for projects and you will see tons of pictures and their comments. This is where I got the two suggestions that I have sent here. Very helpful and interesting to see what other yarns have been used and how they changed it.


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## BISHOP (May 2, 2011)

I pulled out an old set of double pointed needles I use for mittens and socks and used 2 of those. Worked great


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## mrscp1946 (Mar 26, 2011)

patact said:


> I am new to this site and really have enjoyed so much about the community.
> In looking over previous posts, I found a link I followed regarding the ten stitch blanket. I loved the way it looked, and figured that it would be a great way to use up some of my stash. Comments spoke about it being easy to do, once you got the hang of the pattern. Well, I cannot figure out the pattern well enough to get the raised edges. I checked on you tube, and the only video is in German, plus that knitter is so speedy, even after MANY viewings, I still don't get it. Does anyone have suggestions or can steer me to a site where I can learn the trick to this blanket?
> Thank you.


Are you slipping the first stitch. When you knit the 2nd row you will knit this stitch and it makes a bump. when you are finally joining you knit to the end of the row and slip the last stitch, pick up the bump and pass the slipped stitch over. I,ve being doing this blanket as mindless knitting when watching tv. when you master the bump you will be able to be mindless as well.


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## Ceili (May 8, 2011)

Where do I find a picture and pattern for this Blanket? If someone already posted, my apologies, I'm at work and just darting in and out of the forum.


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## mrscp1946 (Mar 26, 2011)

Ceili said:


> Where do I find a picture and pattern for this Blanket? If someone already posted, my apologies, I'm at work and just darting in and out of the forum.


http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/ten-stitch-blanket


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## Ceili (May 8, 2011)

Thank you so much. may have to try it always up for a challenge.


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## waya (Mar 25, 2011)

I am slipping all slip stitches as if to Purl.( except at join) You then will not thave the "bump" but you can easily see where to pick up the next stitch and work it. I do slip 1 as to p knit 8 slip 1 AS TO Knit this is the only spot I slip as to knit. Then pick up a stitch and knit it then psso and turn then do row 2 slip first stitch and knit 9


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## beadness (Apr 14, 2011)

Patact,

Thanks for bringing up this topic. I've been reading the notes relating to this pattern for the last couple of months as I finish one blanket for my grandson to be and thinking about the next for the second grandchild (sex still unknown) to be born this fall. 

The third tip mentioned in my previous post said to use short straight needles instead of cables so you don't have to keep turning the whole blanket around. Some of the double points, even if you put on an end cap or point protector are still pretty long. I have a friend who knits a lot of thin scarves. She has taken her old aluminum straight needles and cut them to about 5 inches. Then she put on those small green conical rubber point protectors on the back end that she cut. Now she has a pair of short straight needles, her favorites.

As it won't be long before I need to start this next blanket, I'm eager to hear comments from people who are working on this now. Please post your opinion as you go along. There are many different tips on how to do the ridges. Which way is your favorite?

Siouxann, you are very welcome. It's my pleasure to contribute what I can.


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## mrscp1946 (Mar 26, 2011)

beadness said:


> Patact,
> 
> Thanks for bringing up this topic. I've been reading the notes relating to this pattern for the last couple of months as I finish one blanket for my grandson to be and thinking about the next for the second grandchild (sex still unknown) to be born this fall.
> 
> ...


I use double pointed bamboo needles they don't slip and are short enough to turn easily


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## Jessica-Jean (Mar 14, 2011)

I've got too many of these Ten-Stitch patterns 'in progress'.

After getting my first Ten-Stitch Twist (circular) going well as per directions (baby yarn), I became fed up with the 'slip 1, pick up and knit 1, pass slipped stitch over the knit stitch' method of joining. It's just plain slow!

So, rather than rip and begin again, I began another with worsted weight yarn. Only now I join by a simple k2tog - where the second stitch is one from the edge to which I'm joining. To make this even easier, the first stitch of *EVERY* row is slipped purlwise. That leaves a nice chain stitch selvedge from which I pick up only the back loop. To speed things even more, I mount a bunch of those back loops on my left-hnad needle beforehand. That means I don't have to pick up a loose stitch/loop at the joining end of _every_ row; it's already there on my needle waiting to be worked.

The raised edge may be what some want, I wanted to use up my 2-foot and longer scraps more quickly. I also like the smoothness of NOT having it there. Once the multitude of ends are woven in, it will not have any 'right' side, and that pleases me.


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## Dreamweaver (Feb 1, 2011)

Since I downloaded patterns, sure am glad to see all thse hints and tips. I wantto do one of these as soon as I get a couple crrent things off needles. Thanks one and all.


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## Jessica-Jean (Mar 14, 2011)

Oops! It seems there's a time limit on how long after posting you can add attachments, and I ran over it before I could add these two photos.

Sorry!


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## patact (Jun 10, 2011)

WOW! So much information, and PICTURES!!! I am thrilled that my post brought so much information. I need to read ALL posts, process them, and then< "once more into the stash". 
I will try again to get this project going. 
One quick question. If anyone has viewed the German video on You Tube






Could you explain why when she turns she doubles the stitches on the needle? Perhaps this is what I'm missing. SInce I do not understand German, I don't know why/what she's doing. Perhaps if someone who has completed one of these blankets watches this, they could explain this step - or perhaps this is just unique to this knitter.

Thanks again for ALL the input.


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## Jessica-Jean (Mar 14, 2011)

patact said:


> One quick question. If anyone has viewed the German video on You Tube
> 
> 
> 
> ...


If by 'doubling' you mean when she wraps the short row ... Instead of leaving the yarn wrapped aroung the stitch, she's leaving it on the needle so that it will be knit when finishing the corner. This is a useful technique when working short rows in stockinette, not so much in garter stitch, which is why the pattern does not say to knit the wrap when you get to it. Ignore how she's wrapping and just follow the pattern.

She also works a chain selvedge, but she does it differently than I. She slips the last stitch and knits the first.

Have fun! It's a great pattern.


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## patact (Jun 10, 2011)

Thank you! What you explained makes sense to me. Each time I've tried to do the pattern, I kept 'seeing' her technique in my mind and thought that I was making a mistake. Now I realize that I just need to follow the pattern.


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## Grannybear (Mar 29, 2011)

Thanks to all above for all the tips and pics for completing this blanket. I cna't wait to finish present projects to give it a try now. What an amazing group.
"Where there is a question - there is always a wise answer"
Happy knitting Norah


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## dollyoved (Mar 23, 2011)

patact said:


> WOW! So much information, and PICTURES!!! I am thrilled that my post brought so much information. I need to read ALL posts, process them, and then< "once more into the stash".
> I will try again to get this project going.
> One quick question. If anyone has viewed the German video on You Tube
> 
> ...


This video is so confusing. She is too fast and it is hard to get what she is doing. Dolly


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## beadness (Apr 14, 2011)

I tried starting a separate topic and perhaps I did it wrong because I didn't get a single reply so maybe I'll have better luck posting it here where we were discussing technique.

"As I look through all the beautiful Ten Stitch Blankets that have been made by many talented people, I'm finding myself drawn to the ones that have long color repeats. Most of those yarns do not seem to be Superwash wool. As the blanket I'm about to embark upon is for a baby, I want it to be machine washable. Has anyone had any experience with any of the long color repeat machine wash yarns? I don't care if it cannot go in the dryer, but the blanket needs, at the very least, to be able to go in the washing machine. I only want natural fibers, so I'm not looking for acrylic yarns. The blanket I'm finishing up now is Sublime Baby Cashmere Merino DK and is scrumptuously soft, squishy and gorgeous. It only comes in solid colors. What I'd love to find is something that is washable and soft like Sublime, but also comes in a long color repeat in a DK weight. Has anyone had any experience with any yarn that fits this bill?"


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## deemail (Jan 25, 2011)

beadness!!!!! this is one of those things where i sit and wonder how much i have learned from this site! in 50-some years of knitting, on straights, dpns, circs, bone, wood, steel, aluminum, plastic and pencils.....it would never have occurred to me to disengage the cable to achieve a short, hi-quality, special use needle! thinking outside the box? what box?????? great idea!


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## deemail (Jan 25, 2011)

patact said:


> WOW! So much information, and PICTURES!!! I am thrilled that my post brought so much information. I need to read ALL posts, process them, and then< "once more into the stash".
> I will try again to get this project going.
> One quick question. If anyone has viewed the German video on You Tube
> 
> ...


i believe, just from watching that she is simply doubling the free yarn when she slips the last st in order to fill the hole that might result...probably just a personal habit....


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## beadness (Apr 14, 2011)

deemail, I can't take the credit for this one, it belongs to my friend. I will say "thank you" for her and pass the kudos on to her. She's the one that turned me on to Ravelry. I'll have to ask her if she knows about this site and the incredible wealth of information found here.


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## Ceili (May 8, 2011)

beadness said:


> I tried starting a separate topic and perhaps I did it wrong because I didn't get a single reply so maybe I'll have better luck posting it here where we were discussing technique.
> 
> "As I look through all the beautiful Ten Stitch Blankets that have been made by many talented people, I'm finding myself drawn to the ones that have long color repeats. Most of those yarns do not seem to be Superwash wool. As the blanket I'm about to embark upon is for a baby, I want it to be machine washable. Has anyone had any experience with any of the long color repeat machine wash yarns? I don't care if it cannot go in the dryer, but the blanket needs, at the very least, to be able to go in the washing machine. I only want natural fibers, so I'm not looking for acrylic yarns. The blanket I'm finishing up now is Sublime Baby Cashmere Merino DK and is scrumptuously soft, squishy and gorgeous. It only comes in solid colors. What I'd love to find is something that is washable and soft like Sublime, but also comes in a long color repeat in a DK weight. Has anyone had any experience with any yarn that fits this bill?"


Beadness, I'm using Universal Limerick Superwash dk weight for a entrelac throw (thought I lost the magazine, went crazy, but I found it, yaaayyyyyy, totally different story). Haven't washed it yet, so no reps or warranties, but there are maybe six or seven with long color repeats, and it is truly gorgeous. Normally about 
$9.50 for a 175 yd ball, but I surfed and found it for $8.00. I think the 10 stitch circular one would look mighty fine in the Limerick. Check it out!


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## deemail (Jan 25, 2011)

beadness said:


> deemail, I can't take the credit for this one, it belongs to my friend. I will say "thank you" for her and pass the kudos on to her. She's the one that turned me on to Ravelry. I'll have to ask her if she knows about this site and the incredible wealth of information found here.


well, get her to KP with us! and the following comment after yours....short needles for entrelac???? yea!!!!


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## Jessica-Jean (Mar 14, 2011)

beadness said:


> "As I look through all the beautiful Ten Stitch Blankets that have been made by many talented people, I'm finding myself drawn to the ones that have long color repeats. Most of those yarns do not seem to be Superwash wool. As the blanket I'm about to embark upon is for a baby, I want it to be machine washable. Has anyone had any experience with any of the long color repeat machine wash yarns? I don't care if it cannot go in the dryer, but the blanket needs, at the very least, to be able to go in the washing machine. I only want natural fibers, so I'm not looking for acrylic yarns. The blanket I'm finishing up now is Sublime Baby Cashmere Merino DK and is scrumptuously soft, squishy and gorgeous. It only comes in solid colors. What I'd love to find is something that is washable and soft like Sublime, but also comes in a long color repeat in a DK weight. Has anyone had any experience with any yarn that fits this bill?"


I'm thinking you didn't get as much feed-back as you wanted because others on Knitting Paradise aren't using "long color repeat machine wash yarns" for it. I calculated the price of one of the ones Frankie did ... and my jaw hit the floor. Besides not being machine washable/dryable, the cost is astronomical! Maybe she owns a yarn shop?

Anyway, mine are all being made with synthetic yarns, because that's what I have a ton of partial balls/scraps two-feet and longer. Yes, I'll have a ton of ends to weave in, but that's brainless work that easily done when at knitting meetings.

I'm not saying to change your preferences as to fibre, just that you may find yourself on your own, at least on this forum.

*If* you have the stomach to deal with the number of posts, there are many on Ravelry about Frankie's patterns. There are over 1200 people who either are working on the Ten-Stitch Blanket, or have already finished it. Maybe looking at theirs will give you a better idea of what yarn to choose? I get the feeling that more Ravelry knitters favour natural fibers than not, so you may have better luck finding your answer there.


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## beadness (Apr 14, 2011)

Jessica-Jean, you're probably right on all counts. As for choosing fibers, I may not be quite as picky after knitting the next blanket. I just finished one for my first grandson to be born this summer. The second blanket is for my second grandchild who will make his or her debut in November. I'm stuck in that "nothing but the best for my grandchildren" mode. The Sublime blanket is such a dream and I will definitely make something similar out of more Sublime or Debbie Bliss Cashmerino for the second baby blanket. When I finish that one, I'm thinking about making the Ten-Stitch Blankets for each of them but as smaller car seat blankets. These will probably get carried around more and it makes sense to use a blend, I think, since they will get washed more often. 

I started knitting again, mostly socks, about two years ago after not doing much knitting for the past 20 years. Other than sock yarn, I've got a pretty small stash and will have to buy new yarns for these blankets.

Just wanted to also say that when I buy larger amounts of yarn, I've found prices to be up to 25% off retail buying through the internet. I still buy small amounts from my lys, but they just can't beat the online prices.

So now that I've changed the perameters, I'd like to find a blend with long color repeats. I still want it to be very soft though and it should wash beautifully. Anyone have ideas with these new qualities?


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## beadness (Apr 14, 2011)

Ceili said:


> beadness said:
> 
> 
> > I tried starting a separate topic and perhaps I did it wrong because I didn't get a single reply so maybe I'll have better luck posting it here where we were discussing technique.
> ...


Ceili, Thanks for taking the time to respond. After reconsideration, I've decided that these two multi-colored Ten Stitch Blankets will be a smaller size and should be a washable blend. I'm saving the luxury yarn for a solid color full-sized blanket. The solid colors are easy to find in DK weight.


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## deemail (Jan 25, 2011)

beadness said:


> Jessica-Jean, you're probably right on all counts. As for choosing fibers, I may not be quite as picky after knitting the next blanket. I just finished one for my first grandson to be born this summer. The second blanket is for my second grandchild who will make his or her debut in November. I'm stuck in that "nothing but the best for my grandchildren" mode.


remember you can create your own long color repeats by using two strands together...this might sound more expensive, but remember it will be a bit larger and fill out the required inches faster. in addition, the two strands of solid color will be less expensive.

look at a lot of blanket pix and pick one that appeals to your color sensibilties.

now, just for example, begin with 2 reds, knit till your color reaches the length of the pic you liked. now change 1 strand to blue and continue knitting with both strands (1 old, 1 new) till the length is again complete. this time, change the red to purple, cont knitting; now the blue goes to lavendar, cont knitting; now the purple goes to pink........you see how the colors can mix and carry one on to another for as long as you like. each time you change the 'old color' of the two so that a natural progression just happens.

its kind of a variation on using 1 color, say red, or black or white.... as the second strand of 2 dozen different colors.... they will all blend well together and is another way this blanket would look great and use up lots of scraps.


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## Jessica-Jean (Mar 14, 2011)

beadness said:


> Other than sock yarn, I've got a pretty small stash and will have to buy new yarns for these blankets.


There's no law saying you must knit it with a particular weight of yarn. On the needles, I have one Ten-Stitch Twist in baby-weight yarns; one Ten-Stitch Twist in worsted weight yarn; one Ten-Stitch Triangle in sport weight yarn; one Double Ten-Stitch in yarn that was bought as a kit to knit miles of i-cord to be braided into a rug; and one Ten-Stitch Blanket in unplied worsted weight yarns, but worked over 20 stitches, instead of 10. I changed needle size in accordance with my choice of yarns.

On my to-do list, is another Ten-Stitch pattern done in sock yarn, just because I don't knit socks, and I bought a batch of lovely sock yarn from the second-hand store. ($3 for four pounds of yarn! Lucky day!)

So, you _can_ make one in sock yarn.


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## beadness (Apr 14, 2011)

remember you can create your own long color repeats by using two strands together...this might sound more expensive, but remember it will be a bit larger and fill out the required inches faster. in addition, the two strands of solid color will be less expensive.

I like that idea a lot and have been thinking about doing just that. I went to the Maryland Sheep and Wool Festival in May and saw a blanket made by a company called Tess Yarns. They used Lace weight Superwash Merino and held 4 strands together creating a blend of colors. Here's a link if anyone wants to see what was done, you could choose whichever colors you wanted at the Fair. http://www.tessyarns.com/?page_id=71&shopp_pid=188 I just wonder if that would be a nightmare trying to control 4 strands. I wonder if it would be easier to prewind everything together to prevent tangles. Has anyone tried this with lace weight yarn?


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## Knittykitty333 (Nov 28, 2011)

I am just starting a 10 stitch blanket.......crazy...I think I will need help...any progressive photos...thanks,


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## Jessica-Jean (Mar 14, 2011)

Sorry, no photos; battery's dead and charger misplaced.
What's the problem? And on _which_ Ten-Stitch pattern? Blanket, Double Ten-Stitch, Ten-Stitch Twist, etc. There are so many to choose from.


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## Knittykitty333 (Nov 28, 2011)

Hi I am trying the ten stitch blanket...I started another attempt last night and I will see how it goes...it is the first initial double corner...I just wish that there were some photos if what it should look like at certain stages..I have the pattern from ravelry...I am just noticing how she put the* and **....I will let you know if I make the turn ok...I just need exact row pattern...after I know it then I can be free...it is like jazz music if you do not know the rules in music to begin with then it is hard to go and improvise and experiment...thanks,deb


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## Knittykitty333 (Nov 28, 2011)

Hi. Ok I was wondering what she means when she says when you only have or stitch to work to knit rather than slip...so would that be slip one then knit1and turn and slip 1 and knit one then begin to work your way back to nine? Thanks,Debbie


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## Jessica-Jean (Mar 14, 2011)

Knittykitty333 said:


> Hi. Ok I was wondering what she means when she says when you only have or stitch to work to knit rather than slip...so would that be slip one then knit1and turn and slip 1 and knit one then begin to work your way back to nine? Thanks,Debbie


Do you mean line 20 on the attached copy of the pattern?

If so, ....

Have you read the Row by Row Instructions for the Corner that come a bit further down? It is all spelled out there.


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## Jayceeme1 (Nov 16, 2011)

patact said:


> Honestly, Iloveboth of the patterns, and have tried both, but then I get stuck because I can't figure out the joining. There is also a video on YouTube for the circular one, but it is also German. Hopefully, we'll both hear from people who have had success with this blanket.


*I started this patern, threw it against the wall on a number of occasions, THEN :idea: :idea: ONLY WAY I GOT THE RIDGES WAS;
WHERE PATTERN STATES TURN THE WORK, IT DOESN'T MEAN TURN AS IN RIGHT TO LEFT. IT MEANS LITERALLY TURN YOUR WORK BOTTOM TO TOP, TO TURN AS IN turn over!!!! SO you are joining to the OTHER SIDE OF THE WORK but still at the bottom????? Even though I got it sussed, I still threw it across the room, too many fiddly ends and hanging work getting in the way...... used the yarn on hexipuffs instead!*


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## StitchDesigner (Jan 24, 2011)

I think what beadness is saying is to slip the first stitch of the straight edges, both sides as if to purl. I'm doing that and I find it's a *much* prettier and neater join. When I do the corners, I follow her instructions, except I add that extra row between the short rows and adding back the rows. It fills in a hole very nicely.


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## beadness (Apr 14, 2011)

StitchDesigner said:


> I think what beadness is saying is to slip the first stitch of the straight edges, both sides as if to purl. I'm doing that and I find it's a *much* prettier and neater join. When I do the corners, I follow her instructions, except I add that extra row between the short rows and adding back the rows. It fills in a hole very nicely.


I'm sorry, I can't really help. I originally mentioned that I researched this and got notes for knitting it off the web. Eventually I ended up knitting two other blanket patterns for my little ones because I could never find a yarn I wanted to use for this one. I still don't have an extensive stash from which to draw for larger projects like this. Now that I've knit my grandchildren their heirloom blankets, it's only washable and dryable things from now on. Still looking for a washable, dryable, SOFT, long color repeat yarn in DK if any one knows of one. I will knit this eventually and then I'll be asking all of you questions.


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## Knittykitty333 (Nov 28, 2011)

Hi. I love the 10 stitch blanket but I wish that it was written out completely and not so condensed....I have ripped it out so many times...I am trying again...then when I read the comments to turn it from top to bottom...I just do not know....I have made plenty of afghans but this pattern gets confusing...debbie


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## Jessica-Jean (Mar 14, 2011)

There are line-by-line directions for the corner.
There are scads of comments on Ravelry.
If you have never worked a pattern where you use the short-row technique, it may be more difficult, but it isn't impossible. I would suggest that the first two corners - in the pattern called a double-corner - be worked without such external distractions as children, pets, spouse, etc. Once past that learning curve (corner?!), it's easy.

If you haven't a clue as to a short-row; search on google or youtube. It's not hard.


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## Knittykitty333 (Nov 28, 2011)

Ok thanks...peace and quiet...I will let you know...once I get a pattern down though then I am good to go and I usually make it repeatedly....like the absolutely fabulous afghan I have made at least 25...and I change 
It up....also I have made at least 70 chunky lace cowls...and so on....thanks again....knitters are nice...deb


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## Jessica-Jean (Mar 14, 2011)

Knittykitty333 said:


> Ok thanks...peace and quiet...I will let you know...once I get a pattern down though then I am good to go and I usually make it repeatedly....like the absolutely fabulous afghan I have made at least 25...and I change
> It up....also I have made at least 70 chunky lace cowls...and so on....thanks again....knitters are nice...deb


I change it up too. _My_ Ten-Stitch Blanket is actually a Twenty-Stitch. That way, I have longer rows to knit. :-D


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## Knittykitty333 (Nov 28, 2011)

Hi. I have the rectangle done......whew....let me ask do you repeat the 18 rows of garter again ? Thanks,deb


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## StitchDesigner (Jan 24, 2011)

As in garter rectangle, no. Next step is the double corner. If you go to the bottom of the second page she tells you step by step and row by row how to do the corner short rows and working back.


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## Jessica-Jean (Mar 14, 2011)

Knittykitty333 said:


> Hi. I have the rectangle done......whew....let me ask do you repeat the 18 rows of garter again ? Thanks,deb


 :?: ? 
_What_ rectangle? 
_What_ 18 rows? 
The pattern is _all_ garter stitch.

On the pattern, all I see labeled for 18 rows is the first half of a corner. You'll be repeating that corner each time you reach a corner. In between corners, you're just doing garter stitch attached at one edge to the previous part.

_Personally_, I don't like the way she has one doing the first stitch of each row (just knit) or the joining ("sl 1, pick up and K 1 st from the side of the knitting (there should be a bump there ready), psso.").
What _I_ do is slip every first stitch (_incuding_ after joining to the next edge)purlwise and work the last stitch with the edge stitch of the other edge as a k2tog. AND, I only work in the back loop of that neat chain edge formed by slipping each first stitch purlwise.

It's a pattern - a set of directions of how someone else made what she made. It's not graven in stone; one can vary it to suit oneself. It's allowed!! :-D


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## venicesusie (Feb 19, 2011)

It's SO much easier to read a pattern that's not in ALL CAPS.


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## Jessica-Jean (Mar 14, 2011)

venicesusie said:


> It's SO much easier to read a pattern that's not in ALL CAPS.


 :?:


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## Yesterday -n- You (Dec 17, 2011)

Although this was posted quite awhile ago I am just now finding and starting to knit "Frankie's 10 stitch blanket" and at the same time I am begining to question my intellect, such a basic/simple pattern... what's my problem ?? 
Jessica-Jean you have been so helpful on this, thank-you thank-you thank-you!


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## beadness (Apr 14, 2011)

[/quote]I change it up too. _My_ Ten-Stitch Blanket is actually a Twenty-Stitch. That way, I have longer rows to knit. :-D[/quote]

Really smart, you get the same effect with less effort.


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## icis1984 (Feb 19, 2011)

I know that this post has been going for awhile. Just recently on youtube VeryPink Knits posted a video on how to do this pattern, and step by step to do the corners and joining the sides. I would love to do this blanket but haven't decided on what yarn and colorway to do.


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## StitchDesigner (Jan 24, 2011)

icis1984 said:


> I would love to do this blanket but haven't decided on what yarn and colorway to do.


Your pick! Just be sure the needles match the yarn weight. You could even try scrap yarns!


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## crazyone (Jul 18, 2012)

Hi... Charity Windham has a good 1 stitch pattern for the loom she is found on Raverly or just put her name in google hope this helps you all crazyone


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## jan s (Dec 27, 2017)

Can anyone tell me how to make this into a rectangle?1


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## Dayzed (Jan 24, 2017)

Jan S - knit the first block twice (or thrice) as long as the width.


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## IndigoSpinner (Jul 9, 2011)

BISHOP said:


> I pulled out an old set of double pointed needles I use for mittens and socks and used 2 of those. Worked great


For a while, I was doing a lot of modular work like this, and bought a few pairs of Signature seven inch straight needles. They're perfect for this and other modular projects, especially if you get the stiletto points because they're perfect for picking up stitches.


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## IndigoSpinner (Jul 9, 2011)

Ceili said:


> Where do I find a picture and pattern for this Blanket? If someone already posted, my apologies, I'm at work and just darting in and out of the forum.


I'm pretty sure that this is the first ten-stitch blanket: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/ten-stitch-blanket

But Frankie Brown herself wrote a lot of variations on it, and there are a couple of other designs using the same construction.

https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/ten-stitch-zigzag

https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/ten-stitch-twist

https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/ten-stitch-triangle

https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/ten-stitch-wave

https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/ten-stitch-corner

https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/double-ten-stitch

https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/ten-stitch-scarf

https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/ten-stitch-wrap

https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/10-stitch-star-blanket?fbclid=IwAR3JHhgA0JA-sUEUBIS_XMMSSON3dENBqUz8junv9rl5nY-D2mj5-7h3wnc

https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/10-stitch-heart?fbclid=IwAR0YNk2WaC8a1vC-5NIqGKwTYH45Du1TreVNWkBiQLZwjV8Z2LFCAyRfoSk

That may not be all of them, but it's all I could find at the moment.


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## IndigoSpinner (Jul 9, 2011)

Jessica-Jean said:


> I've got too many of these Ten-Stitch patterns 'in progress'.
> 
> After getting my first Ten-Stitch Twist (circular) going well as per directions (baby yarn), I became fed up with the 'slip 1, pick up and knit 1, pass slipped stitch over the knit stitch' method of joining. It's just plain slow!
> 
> ...


In the spirit of having a blanket that's completely reversible, I don't slip the first stitch at all. Since it's all garter stitch, I just pick up a strand of yarn that goes over the edge from front to back on each "knot" along the edge and knit into that. It doesn't give me that look of having a chained join, but almost like yours, but a little nicer. It looks the same from both sides.

But it means that you have to pick up directly from the knitted part on the pass below it instead of being able to pick up the edge of the chains and thread them onto a needle so you don't have to pick one up each time.

I do the same thing when doing entrelac, although I always do entrelac in garter stitch, and some people call it a different name when done that way. I seldom do the edge triangles for entrelac, too, because I like that sawtooth edge.


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