# removing waste yarn



## bobbie-o (Dec 21, 2011)

Does anyone have any tips to make removing the waste knitting at the start of a garment a bit easier? All I can figure out is to snip every stitch and it takes a while as well as offering the opportunity to snip the real knitting. Thanks, Bobbie


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## Deb-Babbles (Mar 4, 2011)

Hi Bobbie. I use a nylon heavy weight thread to set up for my waist yarn. 
So here is what I do. I knit the rows I want of waist yarn. Then I run one row of nylon type thread or string, then I knit the rest of what I want to do. Nylon is slippery and allows for better removal when ready. 
I would do a test on it first so you can see how it works for you.


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## bobbie-o (Dec 21, 2011)

Thanks for the tip, I have some slippery yarn I can try that with. The idea is that it will just pull out and the waste yarn will drop off, right?


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## Entity (Sep 13, 2011)

bobbie-o said:


> Thanks for the tip, I have some slippery yarn I can try that with. The idea is that it will just pull out and the waste yarn will drop off, right?


Yes!


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## Caggsie (Mar 29, 2012)

Go to the opposite end to the tail of the WY last row. Snip the WY (be careful not to snip the MY stitch)stitch below the MY. Release by pulling where just snipped, should start to unravel a bit.. Pull the tail of the WY at the opposite end. Try and pull straight, this should pull out last row of WY leaving the MY in tacked.


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## Elis (Nov 1, 2011)

Very good advice, but make sure your pull thread is not too slippery and be sure to leave a few inches spare at each end in case of accidental pulls. The thread should also be a different colour from the waste and the knitting. Nylon kite string makes good and inexpensive pull cord and lasts for years.


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## susieknitter (Jul 14, 2011)

If you have the cast on cord that usually comes with a machine I find that is the best thing to use.


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## KateWood (Apr 30, 2011)

If you don't have c/o cord unsented dental floss works great.


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## GudrunM (Feb 17, 2012)

that is brilliant. I always use my cord and I love it. this is a good back up, thanks.,


KateWood said:


> If you don't have c/o cord unsented dental floss works great.


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## big si (Feb 3, 2012)

this works for me: start waste yarn knitting with utility cast on.(thread machine and start knitting) this will unravel from the bottom or start point except for one loop at each end. just pull yarn out at ends and unravel the rest of row by pulling yarn. I use this when I am going to turn up a hem or any time that I am going to put item back on needles. the ravel cord makes it easier to put back on needles than just waste yarn


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## big si (Feb 3, 2012)

this works for me: start waste yarn knitting with utility cast on.(thread machine and start knitting) this will unravel from the bottom or start point except for one loop at each end. just pull yarn out at ends and unravel the rest of row by pulling yarn. I use this when I am going to turn up a hem or any time that I am going to put item back on needles. the ravel cord makes it easier to put back on needles than just waste yarn


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## jamvncent (Sep 10, 2011)

I use dental floss for this purpose -- and be sure to knit just one row.


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## DickWorrall (May 9, 2011)

I don't knit and love the look of machine knitting too.
I have read a lot about waste yarn.
Once you remove it, you have live stitches.
What do you do with them?
How do you finish the piece?
Also, why use waste yarn? 
Why not start with the yarn you are going to work with?
These are questions that I cannot seem to find answers 
for on the internet.
I have seen where they say that the waste yarn helps you
to get and even stitch going. That is all.
Thanks.
Dick


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## ruth Roxanne (Mar 18, 2012)

Dick, the machine needs resistance from the knitted piece to knit evenly and not drop stitches or jam. The waste yarn gives a place to hang weights to give resistance. It is easier to use waste yarn, something you won't use for a project, than to get weights on the new knitting at the beginning. The first row of yarn after the waste yarn does not ravel, but if wanted, a border or ribbing could be added so it does not curl up as st st will do.
Roxanne


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## DickWorrall (May 9, 2011)

ruth Roxanne said:


> Dick, the machine needs resistance from the knitted piece to knit evenly and not drop stitches or jam. The waste yarn gives a place to hang weights to give resistance. It is easier to use waste yarn, something you won't use for a project, than to get weights on the new knitting at the beginning. The first row of yarn after the waste yarn does not ravel, but if wanted, a border or ribbing could be added so it does not curl up as st st will do.
> Roxanne


Roxanne,
Thanks for the quick reply.
Dick


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## LeAnn (Feb 5, 2011)

Even if you start with waste yarn doesn't mean you always have live sts when it is removed. If you knit with waste yarn, then 1 row of ravel cord, then do a closed edge cast on with your garment yarn the sts won't be 'live' when you pull the ravel cord out. Waste yarn is also good to start with to make sure everything is knitting properly, especially when doing tricky sts like a swing rib and using the punch cards.


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## NogginKnits (Mar 13, 2011)

I used waste yarn and didn't use a ravel cord, is that why my hem could unravel? I made a hat and put a picot hem in to finish it. How can I have a finished hem with the ravel cord or can't I? Thanks


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## LeAnn (Feb 5, 2011)

ruth Roxanne said:


> .......The first row of yarn after the waste yarn does not ravel, ....
> Roxanne


Just beware that if you did an 'open' cast on the knitting will unravel after the waste yarn is removed. If you do a 'closed' edge cast on, such as the 'e' wrap then it won't unravel when the waste yarn is remove.


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## NogginKnits (Mar 13, 2011)

Thank you.


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## Entity (Sep 13, 2011)

NogginKnits said:


> I used waste yarn and didn't use a ravel cord, is that why my hem could unravel? I made a hat and put a picot hem in to finish it. How can I have a finished hem with the ravel cord or can't I? Thanks


You don't leave the ravel cord on. It has to be removed. It's there to aid you removing the waste yarn (cast-on rag).


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## Entity (Sep 13, 2011)

Last night I was working on a piece that needed to be rehung to complete the knitting for the other side. I took this opportunity and snapped some photos for you to see why we use cast-on rag.

The wasted yarn (cast-on rag) is the black yarn. I knitted a narrow one and it got all curled up. It really didn't mattered with this project. The white thread is the ravel cord which I used dental floss for it. Dental floss with wax helped to pull it out easily. You can see how easy it is to see the stitches for rehanging.










And now, you can see how nicely it turned out by using the waste yarn to temporarily hold unfinished stitches.










Hope this helps you more understanding the reason of using cast-on rag/waste yarn.


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## GudrunM (Feb 17, 2012)

thanks a ton for sharing those pictures. Pictures really are like a 1000 words. Also, dental floss is a good idea. Did ou knit 2 rows with it?


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## Entity (Sep 13, 2011)

GudrunM said:


> thanks a ton for sharing those pictures. Pictures really are like a 1000 words. Also, dental floss is a good idea. Did ou knit 2 rows with it?


You're welcome, I agree. Photos are easier to understand than trying to imagine it in your head.

As for your question, I knitted only 1 row with dental floss in between the 2 pieces. I do it this way because it's very difficult for me to use the usual technique. The usual technique requires to pull and hold the ravel cord as the carriage is moved across the row with the main yarn. Due to a disability, my hands are unable to hold the ravel cord tightly. I was not capable to work with the usual technique so I've been doing it this way.


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## GudrunM (Feb 17, 2012)

hey, whatever works. I think I willl try this next time.


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## NogginKnits (Mar 13, 2011)

Thanks so much


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## 30Knitter (Apr 9, 2012)

It is always good to use ravel cord with your waste yarn. This way you can be sure you don't leave any unwanted threads from the waste yarn behind.


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## GudrunM (Feb 17, 2012)

I never thought of that, good point.


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## dec2057 (May 30, 2011)

This is exactly what I do as well, use a slippery nylon thread (I got mine at Hobby Lobby and a spool lasts forever ;-)



Deb-Babbles said:


> Hi Bobbie. I use a nylon heavy weight thread to set up for my waist yarn.
> So here is what I do. I knit the rows I want of waist yarn. Then I run one row of nylon type thread or string, then I knit the rest of what I want to do. Nylon is slippery and allows for better removal when ready.
> I would do a test on it first so you can see how it works for you.


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## NogginKnits (Mar 13, 2011)

Where do you place the ewrap? In the latch or behind it? If behind that means you have your Ravel cord and ewrap behind the latch?


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## dec2057 (May 30, 2011)

NogginKnits said:


> Where do you place the ewrap? In the latch or behind it? If behind that means you have your Ravel cord and ewrap behind the latch?


Place the ewrap at the very back, behind the latch behind the hem. yes, everything is behind the latch.


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## NogginKnits (Mar 13, 2011)

Thank you! I will give it a try.


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## donnamlamb (Apr 6, 2012)

You can buy what machine knitters call "Ravel Cord" from any machine knitting supply house (i.e., The Knit Knack Shop in Peru, Indiana). It's a very strong cord that comes in colors (either dark or pastel selections) so that it can be easily seen between your waste yarn and your garment stitches. You just pick the color that shows up best against your main color. This is great when you're doing button holes, and need to see the open stitches to work with. If that is not available to you, you could even buy fishing line to use as ravel cord.


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## NogginKnits (Mar 13, 2011)

Thank for this explanation.  I am wondering why some folk say to ewrap with MY after using the ravel cord. If the MY doesn't ravel after the ravel cord is pulled then why would you need to ewrap?


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## Maryknits513 (Feb 12, 2011)

NogginKnits said:


> Thank for this explanation. I am wondering why some folk say to ewrap with MY after using the ravel cord. If the MY doesn't ravel after the ravel cord is pulled then why would you need to ewrap?


If you have a permanent cast on, like e-wrap or crochet, the MY will not unravel when you remove the ravel cord. If you don't use a permanent cast on the stitches will unravel.

There are times when you want live stitches at the bottom of a piece. For example, when I'm knitting a sleeve, I start with scrap yarn& ravel cord. I switch to the MY,and follow the instructions for above the ribbing. After finishing the top part,I rehang the knitting, reducing by about 1/3 - 3 stitches on 2 needles. That makes the cuff tighter,and the sleeve little fuller above the cuff. Some trims need live stitches, too.j


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## Irish maggie (May 11, 2011)

Entity said:


> Last night I was working on a piece that needed to be rehung to complete the knitting for the other side. I took this opportunity and snapped some photos for you to see why we use cast-on rag.
> 
> The wasted yarn (cast-on rag) is the black yarn. I knitted a narrow one and it got all curled up. It really didn't mattered with this project. The white thread is the ravel cord which I used dental floss for it. Dental floss with wax helped to pull it out easily. You can see how easy it is to see the stitches for rehanging.
> 
> ...


Great tips Thankyou Ladies
:thumbup: :thumbup:


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